The kitchen is one of the busiest areas of the house, and it sees raw meat, coffee, berries, and any other number of foods just waiting to stain, spill, and drip. Since food is prepared in the kitchen, it is probably the most important room in which to use organic cleaning products. With such a wide variety of potential germs and stains, it’s good to have a solid arsenal of cleaning products stationed in the kitchen for quick fixes.
The Process: Purge, Clean, Organize
Nothing is more frustrating than opening a cupboard and having an avalanche of various storage containers and lids come pouring out. (Except, perhaps, having eight to-go coffee mugs with no lids.) Keeping your kitchen cupboards, drawers, and pantries clean and organized can feel like a tough job since they get so much use, but it is possible.
The purging process is key when it comes to keeping the kitchen free of clutter. You’ll need to constantly evaluate what goes into each cupboard, drawer, and cabinet. Do you really need to keep the extra take-out soy sauce packets you’ve never actually used? The extra twist ties you accumulate from bread bags? How many different boxes of birthday candles and toothpicks do you actually need? What about stale spices, pasta, and three open bags of chips? Toss, toss, toss, and toss.
Move low-use items off the counter and into less-utilized cabinets, such as corner ones or above-refrigerator ones. This also keeps them from getting gunked up with the inevitable debris that builds up on the countertop. Instead of having to wipe down the counter around all your small appliances, simply keep them out of the way until you need them. It sounds easy, but how often do we “forget” to put the panini press or rice cooker back in the Lazy susan corner cabinet until a week after we’ve used it?
Group like items with like. Keep all of the to-go mugs on one side of the cabinet, all of the regular mugs on the other. Keep all straws in one place. Keep spices in one drawer or on one shelf. Group spices by baking or cooking, so you don’t need to sort through meat tenderizer and grilling spices to find vanilla and nutmeg. Small wooden crates or narrow wooden baskets are great for organizing here; as usual, try to avoid plastic.
Store multiples of pantry food items together. This not only allows you to see at a glance what you have in stock for, say, beans, it also lets you rotate items. Rotate kitchen items by keeping the oldest item in front so nothing gets stuck at the back of the pantry for years. Yes, years—don’t pretend you haven’t had something linger there that long.
The kitchen is one place where regular purging is necessary because open packages tend to get lost in the shuffle and before long you can’t tell what’s stale and what’s fresh. Put a monthly purge on your cleaning calendar to keep on top of things.
Cleaning, of course, is of equal importance in the kitchen as purging, because we do not want any critters to get into our food stores. This is one more reason why using glass containers over plastic is preferable; airtight glass containers are nearly impenetrable for critters and bugs, whereas they love to chew plastic. Airtight glass containers are also visually appealing, last for ages, and keep food the freshest. Switching to glass containers may be a bit of an investment at first, but they’re easy to clean and sanitize and will last forever, so it’s worth it. Of course, mason jars are one of the easiest ways to make the switch, or simply repurpose glass jars from food products as you collect them.
Since we’re cleaning the kitchen with organic ingredients, we have less to worry about when it comes to the actual cleaning. You won’t have any toxic chemical scents lingering in your cupboards alongside your food and you don’t have to worry as much about accidentally spraying cleaning products into food. The best thing to do when cleaning in the kitchen is to remove everything from a single drawer or cupboard and clean it top to bottom, getting out cobwebs and crumbs while throwing away anything that’s past its prime. Leave the cupboard open to let it air dry.
Floors should be swept daily and wet-cleaned at least once a week, if not more often. Keep critters and bugs under control by doing monthly maintenance checks. Keep all drains and sinks fresh by doing a quick clean every few days and a deep clean every other week. Clean the refrigerator, microwave, oven exterior, stove exterior, and small appliances regularly, too. Don’t forget to swap out sponges regularly and wash rags and dishtowels frequently to prevent mildew and germs from accumulating. The kitchen is a nurturing center in the organic country home; treat it well so you can treat your family well, too.
LOOKING GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT FRUIT AND VEGGIE CLEANER
Even when we purchase organic fruits and vegetables, they are still coated with food wax, transported, handled by picky customers, and have most likely acquired mold spores and germs along the way. It makes good sense to rinse them clean in this mixture before storing and eating. All but the softest of berries (raspberries) can be cleaned using this method.
• ½ cup vinegar
• 2½ cups water
• A few drops of grapefruit seed extract, optional
Mix together in a medium-size bowl.
To Use: Place this mixture in a clean basin in your sink and add your fruit or vegetables. Do all of your soft fruits in one batch, your hard fruits in another, and your vegetables in a third. Dry fruits and vegetables thoroughly using soft cloth or paper towels before storing, and throw a small cloth rag or paper towel in the container with them to absorb the moisture that escapes from the fruit and makes them go soft.
Extra Tip: You can also place fruits and vegetables inside pillowcases or specially-made small fabric bags to store them. Just be sure to wash the bags regularly, too.
CRUMBS ARE TOAST:
SMALL KITCHEN APPLIANCE CLEANING SPRAY
Small kitchen appliances like coffeepots, toasters, microwaves, juicers, etc., are magnets for dust, cobwebs, and crumbs. If they sit on the counter regularly, like toasters and coffee makers usually do, they are even more susceptible to getting sticky from food and drink spills, which then attracts even more grime and potentially ants or other bugs. Not to mention, keeping your appliances shiny and looking like new brings a fresh appearance to your kitchen that’s well worth the few moments it takes to wipe them down regularly. First off, be sure to store any less-frequently-used items in a cupboard below the counter to minimize your work and maximize your workspace. The appliances that remain can be cleaned externally with this simple, food-safe spray.
• ½ cup distilled or boiled and cooled water
• ½ cup white vinegar
• 6 drops orange essential oil
Mix together and place in an 8-ounce spray bottle. Shake before using.
To Use: Spray liberally onto a cotton rag and wipe down small appliances. Let dry thoroughly before using the appliance.
MAKE PEACE WITH THE MICROWAVE:
CLEANING THE MICROWAVE
While you may not have a microwave in your organic country home, if you do, you know how quickly they get grimy. There’s a simple solution, though, that only takes a few minutes and can be done while you’re letting dishes soak or waiting for the dishwasher to finish drying.
• Small bowl of water
• Juice of 1 lemon
Add the lemon juice to the bowl of water. Microwave for 3–5 minutes. Keep the door closed and let the lemon steam soften the crud on the sides of the microwave walls. Remove the bowl and dip a sponge into the water mixture, then use it to scrub the microwave. Take out the spinning plate if there is one and give it a good hot, soapy wash. Let dry then return to the microwave.
CLEAN CAFFEINE COFFEE MAKER CLEANSER
Coffee makers are a breeding ground for mold, so they should be thoroughly cleaned every 2–3 weeks for drip or pod-based machines. You’ll also be cleaning off buildup from hard water, which isn’t harmful, but can clog your machine. Vinegar will do the trick nicely here, and adding a bit of baking soda to the vinegar and hot water helps clear away any coffee stains on glass or plastic.
To clean a drip or pod-based coffee maker:
Fill the water reservoir halfway with white vinegar. Use a soft bottle brush to swish this around to get into all of the crevices of the water reservoir and clean them. Then use the bottle brush dipped in vinegar to clean the area where the filter or coffee pod goes. You may also need to get a cotton swab out to reach the smaller spaces that will also be covered in coffee film and dust. Rinse the bottle brush or cotton swab with water and go over all of these areas again with the brush dipped in clean water.
Next, finish filling the water reservoir the rest of the way with water. Brew without using a filter and grounds or a coffee pod, until all of the water has been used (with a pod-based coffee maker, this may take a while). Discard the cleaning solution water that comes through. Then refill the water reservoir with fresh water and brew again without coffee until all of that water is gone, discarding it.
To clean a French press or pour-through coffee maker:
Fill the French press with half white vinegar and half warm water. Add 2 tablespoons of baking soda. Place the plunger and lid in place and move the plunger up and down a few times to agitate the mixture in the French press. Remove the plunger and use a soft bottle brush to further clean the canister. Unscrew all parts of the plunger and soak them in a solution of half vinegar and half warm water, then use the soft brush to gently clean them. To prevent rust, let all pieces dry thoroughly before attempting to screw them back together again.
Pour-through coffee makers, such as a Chemex, can be cleaned using the same method of vinegar, warm water, and baking soda, and the agitation can be done using a bottle brush. Small pour-through coffee makers that sit on top of a cup can be hand-washed in the vinegar and warm-water solution to remove any buildup.
SHINY Stovetop CLEANER FOR ELECTRIC AND GAS STOVES
Stoves are workhorses, and workhorses tend to get dirty. Grease splattering, pasta or potato water overflowing, tomato sauce simmering too vigorously … the offenders are numerous. But one easy paste is your best friend when it comes to cleaning the mess. First, remove the burners and burner plates from the stove. If your stove has knobs, remove them, too, so you can clean behind them. Then you can get into every nook and cranny and clean with confidence.
• ¼ cup baking soda
• ¼ cup fine salt
• ½ cup water
Mix into a paste in a small bowl.
To Use: Use a soft rag to take a bit of the paste and rub gently, in circles, over the burners themselves and the burner plates. Let the paste sit for 30 minutes, misting lightly with water if the paste is drying out too much. While those set, add a bit more water to the paste if it is hardening up, and use the rag to buff the surface of the stove itself. Then use a fresh rag to wipe the solution off.
KITCHEN REFLECTIONS:
STOVETOP CLEANER FOR GLASS-TOP STOVES
Flat, glass-top stoves look modern and sleek, but they get just as dirty as an electric or gas stove. Luckily, the dark, reflective surface tends to hide grime better. While that’s great for when you have guests over, it means the grime can pile up before you even realize it’s time to clean. Since the surface seems a bit more delicate, many people aren’t sure what to use on it. Glass spray doesn’t seem like a good option so close to your food. Of course, good old-fashioned vinegar is the star of the spray here, too, because it breaks down grease and starchy messes without any abrasive ingredients that could potentially scratch the glass.
• ¼ cup baking soda
• 1 cup distilled or boiled and cooled water
• 2 drops vanilla extract (or vanilla essential oil; if using essential oil, add 2 drops rubbing alcohol as well)
Mix and shake well in an 8-ounce spray bottle.
To Use: Spray liberally onto the cooking surface and let sit for a few minutes before wiping off with a clean rag.
For extra-stubborn stains, cover the area well with a layer of baking soda. Then soak the baking soda with the spray and let sit for at least 10 minutes, making sure the baking soda remains wet and doesn’t dry out. Then use a flat, sharp plastic scraper designed specifically for this purpose to gently scrape the spot off. Buff the area with a tiny bit of olive oil on a soft rag.
OVEN OVERFLOWS AND OOPS CLEANER
Everyone has them—casserole overflows, batter oops’ when putting a full cake pan in the oven, and burning drips from sweet potato explosions … Our friends salt and baking soda are superheroes when it comes to cleaning the oven. You will need to set aside a good chunk of time, but you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner when you see how nice it looks (and how it doesn’t smell like you burnt dinner before you even put anything in the oven from all of the buildup). Anytime you entertain, people will comment on how clean the inside of your oven is.
• Sponge
• Stainless steel scouring pad
• Grill brush for really stubborn stains
• Gloves
• Small squeegee or pan scraper that can act like one
• Small bucket
• Lots of rags
• White vinegar
• Baking soda
• Citrus Vinegar (pg. 16) in a spray bottle
First, fill a 9”x12” baking pan with an inch or two of water. Place in the oven, turn on the oven to 300 degrees, and let the water sit in the hot oven for 30 minutes. Turn the oven off. When the oven is mostly cool, but still a tiny bit warm, remove the pan and all oven racks. Dip a sponge in white vinegar and scrub the entire surface to get the first layer of grease and grime loosened. Then, sprinkle flat surfaces with baking soda. Spray with orange vinegar to fully saturate the baking soda. Make a paste of the baking soda and orange vinegar to spread on the walls of the oven. Let the paste sit at least a few hours, overnight if your oven is particularly caked. Spray the orange vinegar on the baking soda periodically to keep it moist. When you’re ready, put on your gloves and use the stainless steel scouring pad and/or grill brush to scrub, scrub, scrub. The vinegar will have done a lot of the loosening for you, but it’s your elbow grease that will make it shine. Keep spraying vinegar as needed to keep things wet. Use the small squeegee to squeegee water into the bucket if necessary or sop it up with rags. The water will likely be greasy and dirty. When the grime is pretty much gone and the vinegar and water spray is running clear, give it one good last vinegar spray, then a water rinse. Let air dry with the door open, then admire your shiny oven interior.
REFRIGERATOR/DISHWASHER EXTERIOR CLEANER
Gleaming metal refrigerators are the norm in most kitchens today, but they seem to be a magnet for dog noses, baby hands, and oily splatters. That is, if you can see any of the surface of the door behind magnets and papers. Textured plastic or painted metal refrigerators offer another set of challenges because of their texture; stains seem to cling in the crevices with a vengeance. But a clean refrigerator door sets the tone in a kitchen and it is worth making up a batch of spray to keep things spic and span. Of course, you’ll need to take down artwork and wedding invitations, which is a good excuse to cycle things through and keep the refrigerator “calendar” up to date.
• ¼ cup white vinegar
• ¼ cup distilled or boiled and cooled water
• 6 drops peppermint essential oil
• For stainless steel: Add 1 tablespoon olive oil
• For plastic/painted metal: Add 1 tablespoon castile soap
Mix ingredients in an 8-ounce spray bottle. Shake well before use.
To Use: Spray liberally and use a textured cloth to rub in circles with the grain of the stainless steel, or to get into the texture of the plastic.
ODOR EATER REFRIGERATOR INTERIOR SPRAY AND ODOR ABSORBER
Plastic and glass refrigerator drawers and shelves see a lot of sticky situations. This cleaner cuts through spills and drips quickly so you can shut the door fast and keep the cold air in. It also works well for a deep refrigerator clean. Take everything out of the refrigerator and throw away anything outdated or stale. Put the keepers in a cooler with ice. Take out the drawers and shelves. Fill the drawers with soapy water and add ½ cup of vinegar to each one. Let soak. Use this spray to clean shelves thoroughly, soaking if necessary, then rinsing clean. Use the spray on every surface of the interior of the refrigerator, being sure not to miss the edges of the doors and the rubber door gaskets that are a breeding ground for mold. Rinse the drawers, dry them, and put them back in, followed by the shelves. Then you can fill your clean refrigerator with food again. Keep the odor absorber on a back shelf out of the way.
• ½ cup distilled or boiled and cooled water
• ¼ cup white vinegar
• ¼ cup baking soda
• 7 drops lemon essential oil
Mix well in a 16-ounce spray bottle. Shake well before use. This is one cleaner that does not store well, so pour it down the drain if you have any left, and it will clean your drain a bit, too.
To Use: Liberally spray down refrigerator interior surfaces. This works on plastic, coated metal, glass, acrylic, and just about any other surface.
Odor Absorber:
In a small jar, mix 1 cup baking soda with 6 drops lemon essential oil and 6 drops peppermint essential oil. Poke a few holes in the lid using an awl or sharp knife. I like to put a little label with the date on it as well, so I can tell how long it’s been there. Place on a back shelf where it won’t get knocked over. Give this jar a shake to “recharge” the essential oils whenever you think of it, preferably at least every week. Change the mixture out every 1–3 months.
FREEZE OUT SMELLS: CLEANING THE FREEZER
Cleaning the freezer is a job no one wants to tackle. It’s just a pain, especially when ice builds up, bags and containers of mystery food slide around when you take out something, and the ice cream machine bowl may or may not be somewhere in there among the spilled corn and a floating chicken breast. This space needs some help. Cleaning the freezer follows a similar process to the refrigerator cleaning method listed on the previous page, with the addition of some hot water to melt ice buildup. This also works for defrosting chest freezers; it will just take a longer time and more work to drain the melted ice.
First, turn the freezer setting to the highest (warmest) setting, or turn it off completely. If you can manage, unplug the system so you aren’t battling the cold air. Completely empty the space, placing things to keep in a cooler filled with ice and tossing anything freezer burned, unidentifiable, or without a valid date. Then place a bowl of hot water inside the freezer to help melt ice buildup. Place a few towels under the unit and between the door, close the door as best you can, and let the hot water do its work.
Meanwhile, mix up a bottle of boiled and somewhat cooled water mixed with ¼ cup baking soda and ½ cup white vinegar.
Use the towels to sop up melted ice. Spray the walls and shelves liberally with the spray mixture, and use a textured towel to clean. Use a toothbrush sprayed with the cleaning mixture to get into nooks and crannies, particularly where shelves slide in, if necessary. Wipe down with water, then wipe dry with a dry towel.
Now you can organize the items you’re putting back in to keep things a bit tidier. Use masking tape and a Sharpie to label everything with a date, and keep plenty of rubber bands or chip clips handy to corral items that may open if shuffled too much. Group like items here, too; fruit and desserts on one side, vegetables in the middle, and meat on the other side. Use boxes or bins to keep things organized, or add additional shelves if necessary.
Don’t forget to turn the temperature dial back to the proper temperature (typically 0 degrees F) or plug your freezer back in.
PORCELAIN POWER POWDER FOR SINK AND BATHTUB CLEANING
I’m lucky to have a gorgeous double-bay porcelain farmhouse sink in my kitchen. It’s beautiful … when it’s gleaming. When it’s dirty, it’s quite an ugly sight indeed, stained with coffee and tomato sauce in the pitted areas where the porcelain has worn thin over the years. You might be tempted to bleach your porcelain sink, particularly if it is pitted. But bleaching only worsens the problem in the long run. Using natural ingredients and a bit of elbow grease, you can get your porcelain pretty again without the use of harsh bleach. Of course, if your sink is too pitted, not much will get the stains out of the porous parts, and you will need to consider having the sink reglazed. You can do this yourself, but be very careful; I recommend hiring someone who specializes in this type of restoration.
• 1 cup baking soda
• ¼ cup salt
• 6 drops lemongrass essential oil
• 6 drops eucalyptus essential oil
• Vinegar
• Warm water
Mix together baking soda and salt. Add 3 drops of the lemongrass essential oil and 3 drops of the eucalyptus essential oil and mix well.
In a small spray bottle, mix together half vinegar and half warm water, with about 3 drops of each essential oil.
To use: Wipe the sink clean with a sponge and warm water. Spray the entire basin well with warm water. Sprinkle liberally with baking soda and salt mixture. Give it a nice thick layer. Spray the baking soda mixture well with the vinegar mixture to get it thoroughly soaked. Let sit for at least 20 minutes, if not longer. You should see the baking soda start to take on a brownish tint from absorbing the mess. Spray more vinegar if necessary, but it’s OK if the paste dries out a little. Then use a soft brush or sponge (do not use stainless steel bristles or pads) to scour the baking soda/salt mixture well and really get some muscle behind it to get that porcelain gleaming. Rinse thoroughly. If there are still any trouble spots, repeat the process. Then give it one last shine with the vinegar and essential oil spray. It should be shiny and glowing!
This soft-scrub type cleaning liquid works great on porcelain surfaces of any type in the kitchen! Reach for it when you’re looking to do a bit less scrubbing and want the ease of a squeeze bottle. The lemon essential oil cuts through grime like a champ and baking soda helps it along.
• 1¼ cups baking soda
• ¼ cup Sal’s Suds or castile soap
• 2 tablespoons hydrogen peroxide
• 25 drops lemon essential oil
Mix ingredients well in a small bowl. Transfer to a 12- or 16-ounce jar or squeeze bottle, leaving a few inches at the top, as the mixture will expand a bit as it settles together. Keep airtight in a cool, dark place for a few weeks.
To Use: Add some of the cleaning liquid to a soft cloth, sponge, or brush, or squirt it directly onto the surface. Rub in. Let sit for 15–20 minutes. If necessary, scrub again with the cloth, sponge, or brush. Rinse well.
Extra Tip: Use half a lemon to scrub this mixture into your surface instead of a cloth or rag. The extra lemon juice has wonderful cleaning properties and adds to the lemon-fresh scent.
SINK OR SHINE: STAINLESS STEEL SINK CLEANING
Stainless steel sinks are more popular than porcelain these days. Cleaning them can seem much easier; they are easy to sanitize and spray clean, and don’t seem to hold onto stains or grime. But they have a dirty little secret … rust. The sinks themselves are not actually rusting, but tin cans, rust deposits in your water, and chemical reactions from cleaners left too long on a moist sink can leave nasty rust stains. Triclosan, that tricky antibacterial agent we mentioned earlier, and bleach can both cause chemical reactions with the metal that may look like rust. In those cases, making sure you spray down your sink after every use helps flush those chemicals down the drain. Even though it isn’t coming from the sink itself, it’s there.
Baking soda to the rescue, of course. The process here is very similar to cleaning a porcelain sink, but we’ll avoid anything too abrasive that might cause pitting.
• Baking soda
• White vinegar
• Seltzer
Spray the sink well with warm water. Sprinkle baking soda over the entire surface area, then spray with white vinegar until thoroughly saturated. Let sit at least 20 minutes. Then, using a soft rag, rub in a circular motion with the grain of the steel to thoroughly clean.
Next, rinse well by pouring plain seltzer water over the entire surface of the sink, then let air dry. Things should be nice and clean now!
CATCH UP ON KEEPING YOUR COPPER & BRASS SHINY
Copper items tarnish easily and lose their traditional gleam, but there’s an easy and organic fix for that: tomato ketchup. Ketchup has a high concentration of one of our favorite ingredients: vinegar. Look for a natural, organic tomato product if possible to avoid getting extra chemicals and sugar that isn’t necessary for the cleaning process.
• Ketchup
• Warm water
To Use: Use an old rag to thoroughly coat the pan bottom or object with ketchup. You’ll want to do this in a sink so the items can rest for 10–20 minutes. Then simply rinse with warm water to remove the ketchup and admire your newly restored copper or brass pieces.
SHINY SILVER SERVICE IN SECONDS:
CLEANING SILVER ITEMS
If you have grandmother’s silver tea service, or a few boxes of fancy silverware, chances are you’ve seen the pieces tarnish over the years. While the patina can be desirable for some display pieces, other pieces, such as silverware, should be sparkling silver every time you use them. But chemicals have no place on eating utensils, and the thought of rubbing each piece until your hand falls off seems old-fashioned. Don’t fret! There’s an easy way to clean an entire box of silverware before your next party, even if you forget until the last minute. Even better news? Silver tarnishes when it hasn’t been used for a long time, so instead of letting the silver linger in the bottom of the hutch, use it regularly and you’ll have less work to do in the long run. Be sure not to mix your silver pieces with stainless steel in the regular silverware drawer though, and don’t keep rubber nearby either.
Line a 9”x12” (or larger, depending on the size of your pieces) baking pan with aluminum foil. Add the silverware, making sure fork tines are uncovered and spoons aren’t nested together. Lightly sprinkle ¼ cup of baking soda over the items. Bring a big pot of water to a boil, and pour the boiling water over the pieces, being sure to “activate” all of the baking soda and cover each piece. Let the pieces soak for a few minutes. You’ll be able to see the reaction taking place and the tarnish disappearing. Then use kitchen tongs to remove them to a kitchen towel. When cool enough to handle, inspect pieces for areas that didn’t quite get clean enough, and buff with a little of the leftover cleaning water.
Finally, simply clean your pieces in warm soapy water and dry immediately and thoroughly with a soft cloth.
WOODEN SPOON WONDER WAX
OK, OK, this isn’t an actual wax, but it works like one and I liked the alliteration. Woodenware is the perfect complement to an organic country home—functional, beautiful, heirloom, and often made by hand (the best pieces always are, of course). To keep your beautiful wooden pieces in tip-top shape, follow these tips. They work for every wooden utensil in your kitchen, be it your cutting boards, rolling pin, or the good old-fashioned wooden spoon. I have a whole container on the counter dedicated to just my wooden implements, so preventing them from cracking or splintering is key. It reasons that I also keep a jar of this beautiful wooden spoon wonder balm handy. This also makes a great gift; why not make several jars while you’re at it?
• 1 ounce organic beeswax pastilles or, if a block, cut into pieces
• 4 ounces cold-pressed sunflower oil
• The contents of 1 vitamin E capsule
• 8–10 drops lemon essential oil, optional
Place the beeswax and sunflower oil in a pint jar and place that jar in a pan with water that reaches halfway up the sides of the jar. Bring to an almost-boil, and heat until the wax melts. Stir well to incorporate the two (using a wooden stir stick is the best, since you can compost it afterward and you won’t have to clean wax off it). Stir in the essential oils and vitamin E. Pour into two 4-ounce jars (or keep in the 8-ounce jar you’ve melted everything in). Stir a few times during cooling to ensure it stays emulsified. When cooled completely, store with a lid in a cool, dry place.
Woodenware scares people because they can’t put it through the dishwasher (never, ever put it in the dishwasher), so they think it isn’t clean enough, especially if they’ve used it for raw meats. But study after study has shown that wood has a unique way of “eating” germs and can actually be safer than plastic. I don’t recommend bamboo cutting boards because bamboo naturally has silica in it, which will dull your knives. So good old-fashioned wood it is. You can wash and even sanitize wood, though, so don’t worry. Here’s everything you need to know to keep all of your woodenware in fine shape.
Clean: Do not put wood in the dishwasher, ever! Most wood pieces are put together with some sort of glue and they will literally fall apart in the dishwasher. If they are made of one solid piece of wood, they will come out dry (or mildewed, depending on if you used the heat dry cycle or not) and gray—effectively useless. Wash in hot water with your regular dish soap. Do not let woodenware soak for any long periods of time. If something is crusted onto your woodenware, pour boiling water over that part, which softens it up enough to scrub almost instantly.
Sanitize/Deodorize: Mix ⅓ cup table salt and ⅓ cup baking soda. Sprinkle heavily on the cutting board surface. Let sit for 30 minutes. Cut a lemon in half and use the cut lemon to rub in circles over the surface of the cutting board, getting the salt and baking soda mixed with the juice that’s coming from the lemon to make a paste. Rinse the baking soda mixture off. Pour white vinegar over the entire cutting board. You can also follow this by quickly pouring a kettle full of boiling water over the surface. Do not let the water sit. Then wash as usual. This works for all utensils, too, and gets out stains such as beet or food coloring.
Condition: Dip a clean, lint-free rag in wonder wax (page 55). Don’t be shy; you’ll wipe off any excess, but for now, you want to liberally coat and condition the wood. Work it in as best you can on all sides and surfaces of the items. Then lay out all of the pieces on a clean towel and let this soak in overnight. In the morning, use a clean lint-free rag to rub in any remaining oil. Wash as usual. You can do this monthly or just when you feel the pieces are getting dull or dry.
Extra Tip: If you develop any light splinters, cracks, or bumps on your woodenware, you can use a light grit sandpaper to gently sand the area. Then condition well to seal the newly exposed wood.
SEASONED WAYS TO SEASON YOUR CAST IRON
Most cast iron comes preseasoned these days, but older cast iron, or cast iron that has been put through the dishwasher or harshly treated, may need to be reseasoned. And all new pans, even “preseasoned” ones should be seasoned a few times to really get that nonstick coating established. Everyone has their favorite method, but this one is foolproof and old-fashioned. It’s also simple. Any cooking oil will work—flaxseed, canola oil, olive oil (though avoid extra-virgin), or even shortening.
• Steel wool
• Kosher salt
• Gentle dish soap
• Cooking oil of your choice
• Stiff brush
• Soft lint-free towels
• Aluminum foil
Instructions: Line the middle shelf of your oven with foil. Preheat your oven to 325⁰F. First, remove any rust. Sprinkle kosher salt lightly on any rust spots and rub gently with the steel wool until the rust is removed. Do not go crazy with the steel wool—but now is the only time you can use it, before you season. Do not use steel wool after seasoning your pan. Next, quickly wash the pan in soapy hot water to remove any traces of rust, grime, and leftover gummy old seasoning. Dry thoroughly with lint-free towels.
Now pour a few tablespoons of the oil of your choice into the pan. Use a stiff brush to work the oil into every crevice of the pan, inside and outside. Add more oil if the pan soaks it all up. When the pan has soaked up the majority of the oil, place it upside down on the foil-lined rack in your oven. Bake for 1 hour. Turn the oven off and let the pan cool inside the oven.
The pan should now be slightly shiny and have a nice coating of oil that makes the pan nonstick. Any time the pan feels abrasive, or does not act like a nonstick pan, you may need to reseason the pan. Pans can be seasoned a few times to get this nonstick coating built up quickly.
CAST YOUR CLEANING CARES AWAY: CLEANING CAST IRON
Once your cast iron cooking surfaces are properly seasoned, cleaning is a breeze. There’s hardly anything to it. There are only two hard-and-fast rules to remember: always wash by hand, and dry thoroughly. Any leftover moisture is the fastest route to needing to reseason a skillet, because rust thrives on moist cast iron. I know, I know, you thought I was going to say never use soap on cast iron. But that is an old-fashioned tenant, when soap was extremely harsh and ate at the seasoning instantly. A gentle soap now and again will be fine if it sets your germophobic mind at rest. Just don’t use any harsh or abrasive cleaners or bleach. But the basic premise is true: you don’t need soap to clean cast iron. Here are some ways to keep cast iron clean without the suds.
Light Soiling: Cast iron demands cleaning right after use, while still warm. This is actually good news, as it keeps your kitchen tidy by default. After each cooking use, simply wash the pan with hot water and a light sponge or stiff dish brush. Dry well with towels or let it dry out over low heat on a burner. Then, add a tablespoon or so of cooking oil to the pan and buff it in using a cloth or brush you keep for this purpose. Then turn the heat up to high and let that oil soak into the pan for a few minutes until it is no longer shiny. Let cool and it’s ready for the next use. If you don’t put the pan over heat after you oil it, the oil will turn sticky, collect dust and debris, and may go rancid before your next use. So always let the heat soak the oil into the cast iron.
Heavy Soiling: You overcooked the eggs or burned the bacon and your cast iron pan is looking worse for the wear. Or, your pan suddenly shows a few rust spots. No fear, you can easily scour the surface without ruining your beautiful seasoning.
• Baking soda
• Raw potato, cut into pieces that will fit your pan while exposing as much of the interior raw potato surface as possible
To Use: Sprinkle the surface liberally with baking soda. Push hard with the potato while scrubbing the pan to release the raw juices that interact with the baking soda to clean your pan. Rinse well. Now follow the light soiling process to complete the cleaning.
Extra Tip: Many people store their cast iron skillets in the oven, throwing the clean skillet in the still-warm oven to dry out. Just remember to take it out before you preheat the oven next time, or use care and an oven mitt when removing it from a hot oven!
GREAT GRANITE AND MARBLE CLEANING SPRAY
Granite and marble are top choices for countertops due to their natural color, cooling properties, and durability. But cleaning them takes a special spray, because some of our standard natural cleaning ingredients have adverse reactions with the natural stone. Marble is too expensive to mess around with, but that doesn’t mean you need to panic or purchase specialty cleaners. First off, good soap and water on a sponge can clean your granite and marble just fine, but for bigger messes, here’s a spray that won’t destroy your expensive granite or marble countertops, cheese boards, trays, pastry boards, or rolling pins.
• 2 cups distilled or boiled and cooled water
• ½ cup rubbing alcohol
• 2 teaspoons castile soap
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract (or 2 drops vanilla essential oil)
Mix ingredients well in a 16-ounce spray bottle. Shake well before use.
To Use: Spray and wipe immediately with a soft cloth. Some people like to go over their countertops a second time with water to get up any extra residue. It’s nice, but not necessary, since the rubbing alcohol in this recipe will help your counters dry fast and prevent much, if any, residue.
DRAIN DE-GUNKER AND GARBAGE DISPOSAL DEEP CLEANER
Cleaning the sink drain and/or garbage disposal is actually one of my favorite kitchen cleaning jobs, because it is still just as satisfying as it was during elementary school science class to watch the foaming reaction of vinegar and baking soda. The foaming action is great for weekly cleansing of your kitchen and bathroom sinks. This solution is safe for garbage disposals as well, though sometimes they need a bit more refreshing.
Daily/Weekly Drain Cleaning
• ¼ cup baking soda
• ¼ cup vinegar
• 2 cups boiling water
• 2 drops of your favorite essential oil
Pour the baking soda into the drain, covering the entire area. Have the boiling water at the ready, and pour the vinegar into the drain, making sure to “activate” all of the baking soda. Let foam until the baking soda is thoroughly dissolved. Chase with the boiling water. Place 2 drops of essential oil in the drain.
• 1 cup ice cubes
• ½ cup kosher salt
• Juice and peel of one lemon, cut into strips
Pour the ice cubes into the drain. Sprinkle the salt on top of them. Turn on the faucet full blast with warm water so the water is melting the ice cubes. Do not stick anything down the drain to push the ice through. Let the water melt the ice cubes. When the ice cubes are melted, let the disposal rest for a minute while you cut the lemon peel into strips. Juice the lemon into the garbage disposal and add the lemon peel. Run the water again and turn on the disposal to let it grab the peels.
TRASH, COMPOST, AND RECYCLING BIN CLEANING
You’ll need something strong for this job, but don’t reach for the bleach. Instead, we’ll harness the germ-killing power of vinegar, the odor-absorbing nature of baking soda, and the disinfectant properties of tea tree oil. Keep this spray handy for sanitizing all of your recycling and trash cans regularly, and do a soak every month or so to keep things from getting out of hand. When thoroughly dry, sprinkle the powder on the bottom of trash cans under the trash bag to absorb odors and spills.
Spray:
• ½ cup vinegar
• 1 cup distilled or boiled and cooled water
• 20 drops tea tree essential oil
Mix well and shake before use.
To Use: Liberally spray the interior and exterior of your containers. Wipe dry.
Soak:
• 1 cup baking soda
• 2 cups white vinegar
• 1 quart warm water
Place the baking soda in the bottom of the bin. Add the vinegar and let sit for 15 minutes. Add the water, use a rag or brush to swish it around, and clean areas that aren’t covered by the mixture.
Powder:
• 1 cup baking soda
• 15 drops tea tree essential oil
• 7 drops lemongrass essential oil
Mix well in a small bowl. Keep in a shaker container.
To Use: Sprinkle liberally on the bottom of trash cans under the garbage bag.
WHAT SMELLS SO GOOD?: CLEANING THE KITCHEN AIR
While there are many wonderful kitchen scents that I wish could be naturally formulated and bottled to add to products, such as the scent of fresh bread or warm chocolate chip cookies, there are more kitchen aromas that I wish I could get rid of completely. Open the windows, chop some fresh herbs, and boil up a sweet or savory water-based simmering potpourri to clean the kitchen air.
Sweet:
• 1 cup cranberries
• Peel from 1 or 2 oranges
• Handful of cloves
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 2 cups water
Mix all ingredients in a small saucepan, stirring occasionally, until simmering. Reduce heat to low and keep at a low simmer as long as you’d like. Refill with water as necessary to keep the ingredients well covered with water.
• ½ cup loosely packed fresh thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• Peel of 1 or 2 lemons
• 2 cups water
Mix all ingredients in a small saucepan, stirring occasionally, until simmering. Reduce heat to low and keep at a low simmer as long as you’d like. Refill with water as necessary to keep the ingredients well covered with water.
PREP YOUR PLASTIC: PLASTIC FOOD CONTAINER WASH
Plastic food containers get melted (microwave oops!), stained (spaghetti sauce and chili, especially if they’ve been in the freezer), and rather, shall we say, “fragrant,” as the porous material holds odors. Don’t be tempted to bleach plastic food containers. First off, they’ll smell like bleach and impart that to your food, which is neither safe nor pleasant. Secondly, being in bleach for any amount of time makes plastic containers break down and become sticky, with no way to remove the stickiness. But we know what takes out odors and is completely safe and natural, right? Baking soda!
• Baking soda
• White vinegar
• 2–3 drops grapefruit seed extract, optional
Place containers and lids in a basin and cover them with baking soda. Then pour baking soda over lids and fill containers past the line of stain with straight vinegar. Let soak for at least 30 minutes. Empty the majority of the vinegar, leaving a little in the bottom to dip into. Use a clean toothbrush dipped in more baking soda and a little bit of the vinegar to really get into the pores of the plastic and rims of lids if any stains remain. Wash as usual with hot water and your containers should be stink-free and much less stained.
