The living room generally needs tidying more than deep cleaning, except of course for a solid spring cleaning. More often than not, the living room simply collects things that don’t live there, such as dishes, shoes, and backpacks. Keeping this room picked up will help it look clean visually, and then a quick dust, vacuum, and couch fluff complete the basics. Here are plenty of ways to keep the living room in tip-top shape for family fun and relaxation, hallmarks of an organic country home.
The Process: Purge, Clean, Organize
The size of your family, how frequently you use the living room, and what you use it for will determine just how much purging you may need to do. If the bookshelves are overflowing with books and ephemera, they could probably use some weeding to make breathing room for the books you do want to keep as part of your atmosphere. Drawers in entertainment centers, side tables, and coffee tables are prone to becoming junk drawers, so be sure to fully empty these out. Go through the stack of magazines and catalogues and recycle any that are outdated or that you aren’t likely to get through. Some thrift stores, usually smaller ones, and school art departments accept donations of recent magazines, so you might consider donating them as well. Purge anything the kids have left behind by making a box for each of them and putting anything that belongs in their rooms in that box. Then it’s theirs to decide if it stays or goes, but it doesn’t stay in the living room.
The living room is a prime place to pack in extra storage, so use every bit of it to your organizational advantage. Look for stools and benches that open up to allow for storage. Don’t waste space with open-air side and coffee tables … look for ones with drawers and cubbies to slide baskets or books in. Get some slim bamboo organizers made for kitchen drawers to corral things such as extra batteries, remotes, pens and pencils, etc. in short drawers. Instead of a low entertainment center that only allows you to store a few DVDs, go for a higher one that has several rows of drawers and fills out the room with its height, too. Add photo boxes, hat boxes, and metal tins to add interest on bookshelves. Kid-oriented items, such as games, toys, and electronics that do remain in the living room should have homes. Canvas bins or baskets, or wooden crates are great for this and can easily be tucked under tables and on bookshelves to keep the mess hidden when items are not in use.
RESTORING WOOD SCRATCHES AND LUSTER
Wood is abundant in the living room, from legs of couches and chairs to fireplace mantles, side tables, coffee tables, entertainment centers, bookshelves and built-ins. And when there is living happening, as there is in any organic country home, and family and children and pets and friends (and cold drinks that never seem to find coasters), there’s bound to be scratches, nicks, and rings on the wood. No need to buy an overly-lemon scented can of toxic fumes to keep your wood looking lovely. Keep in mind this is for hardwood furniture or laminates. Anything less sturdy will begin to peel and crack at the slightest hint of moisture, so be sure to use these solutions carefully, dry them thoroughly, and wipe up any spills immediately.
Cleaning Solution:
Sometimes wood just gets coated with … well, who knows what. In the living room, it could be anything from spaghetti sauce to candle wax and glitter glue. It’s best to clean wood regularly so nothing has time to really eat away at the finish. This cleaning solution is quick to put together and does a great job cleaning.
• ½ cup distilled or boiled and cooled water
• ¼ cup white vinegar
• 5 drops pine essential oil
Mix well and shake before use. Spray on and wipe with the grain of the wood in circular motions using a soft cloth.
Polishing Oil:
This will get all of your hardwood furniture gleaming again, and it will still leave a clean lemon scent.
• ¼ cup walnut oil
• 2–4 drops lemon essential oil
A tiny bit of this mixture on a soft rag restores luster to most wood surfaces and fills in any light scratches. Be careful because a little bit goes a long way. For heavier scratches, use a permanent marker in a color similar to the wood. Once it is completely dry, rub a tiny bit of walnut oil over it to create a seamless look.
Extra Tip: For small scratches and water rings, reach for the nut bowl. Rub a raw walnut into the blemish. The nut will release a tiny amount of natural walnut oil, which restores the finish quickly.
DENT UN-DENTING IN HARDWOOD FLOORS
I have soft knotty pine floors throughout my entire old house. They’re lovely and give a great feel to the place, but they are, as I mentioned, soft wood. That means any can that falls out of the kitchen cupboard or corner of a book that drops, not to mention furniture legs or high heels, leaves a good little dent in the floor. But there are a few simple ways to restore dents in hardwood floors (keep in mind this only works on true hardwood floors, not laminates).
Small dents:
Use a sewing needle to prick the interior of the dent all over with small holes. This opens a few pores to the wood below the sealant. Then saturate a cotton ball with water and place it over the dent. Place a heavy book or other heavy object over the cotton ball and let it dry completely. The water soaks into the wood through the tiny holes, re-saturating the wood so it swells again and fills in the dent.
Large dents:
Larger dents require a bit more work but are still manageable to do yourself. First, make sure you know what kind of paint or varnish is on your floor and have some extra handy, along with a small paintbrush. It’s no good to go sanding your floors only to realize you have no idea what sort of finish is on it or how to repair the finish. Then, use a fine-grit sandpaper to lightly sand the area of the dent with the grain of the wood, being as minimalist as you can with how big of an area around the dent you sand. Soak a medium-weight cloth in water and place this over the dent, again, trying to keep as much of the cloth over the dent as possible to avoid damaging the rest of the floor. Use an iron on warm setting to iron the cloth, creating steam that is going down into the wood and filling it out as above, but on a larger scale. Iron until the cloth over the dent is dry. Let the area dry thoroughly. You should see the wood fill out and the dent disappear. You may need to try this twice to get the dent to fully disappear. Sand lightly again. Then, use a small paintbrush to restore the finish of the wood using the varnish or paint that matches your floor.
WIPE DOWN THE WALLS:
CLEANING WALLS (YES, THEY NEED TO BE CLEANED!)
You probably don’t think of your walls as dirty until you run a hand across one and find it filled with dust and dirt. Oops! Walls are surfaces and need occasional cleaning just like any other surface, especially if you have a fireplace that you run regularly that can potentially deposit soot on the walls. But the good news is, you don’t need anything special to clean walls, except perhaps a long-handled brush and a step stool.
• 8 ounces hot water
• 2 tablespoons castile soap
• 20 drops peppermint essential oil
Mix ingredients in an 8-ounce spray bottle by stirring, not shaking, to prevent foaming.
To Use: Spray on the walls and wipe with a soft cloth. Get a step stool if necessary and start at the top, working your way down, section by section. Be prepared to vacuum after this, too, as it’s likely to kick up some dust that your rag doesn’t catch.
DUST COLLECTING … WITH A DUSTER
Ahhh, dust. No matter what you do, it accumulates, on furniture and knick-knacks, on lamps and picture frames, and just about any surface in any room. Don’t forget to dust the tops of cabinets, the backs and feet of hard upholstered furniture, and the edges of wall art. Most of us don’t like to dust, mainly because it can be a bit time-consuming and tedious to move items to thoroughly clean. I actually like dusting, because it gives me a chance to change out my seasonal decorations, tidy up bookshelves, swap out photographs, and simply keep my décor fresh and up to date. This is a pleasure for me, and I hope it might become one for you, too. Dust from top to bottom in a room, and dust before you vacuum.
Tools for dusting:
You don’t actually need any cleaners to dust. Dusting is a game of using the proper tools for the job, and keeping those tools clean. You might want to clean after you dust; for instance, using some glass spray on picture frames or wood polish on the piano, but it is not required.
Genuine Ostrich Feather Duster: You’ll feel like you’re in Downton Abbey when you use a real feather duster. They don’t shed microfibers into our water, not to mention they work fabulously and are entirely fun to use! I’m a big fan. Maybe you’ve heard people say feather dusters simply move dust around but this is not the case if you have genuine ostrich feathers and keep your feathers clean. They are dust magnets! Now, real ostrich feather dusters are a bit of an investment up front, but if you care for it well, it will last you decades. They come in all sizes, but will always have a classic feathered shape. No more throwing away a disposable dusting cloth after each dusting session. The key to dusting with a genuine ostrich feather dust is to shake it as you dust. Do a little shake motion with your wrist to keep the feather duster in action.
To clean your feather duster, shake off as much dust outdoors as possible after each use. I like to tap the handle against a hard surface to expel more dust. Then, every few uses, or when it seems the feathers are “saturated” and not holding dust as well, give it a gentle bath. Use a few drops of castile soap in warm water and swish the feathers around gently. Do not squeeze or crush them. Also keep the handle away from the water so the glue keeping the feathers in place does not disintegrate. Then rinse well in warm water. Let dry thoroughly upside down. Once dry, simply store your pretty feather duster upside down after pulling it through a cardboard tube upside down (starting with the handle, to bring the tube over and encase the feathers) in the laundry room, pantry, or mud room. Don’t let it sit flat, as that will crush the delicate feathers.
Lamb’s Wool Thin Dusters: These dusters are another natural resource that is renewable and works just as well, if not better, than synthetics that have to be thrown in a landfill when they’ve reached the end of their useful life. To clean your lamb’s wool duster, follow the same instructions as above to rinse your duster in warm water and a tiny amount of castile soap. Gently wring it to release excess moisture. Then, take 1 teaspoon of glycerin and massage this into the fibers to restore the natural lanolin that makes lamb’s wool such an effective duster. Use a pet brush to brush and fluff the fibers. Lamb’s wool dusters come in many shapes since the wool is more malleable, and you can find flat head, wedge, and extension dusters with lamb’s wool heads.
DON’T BE BLIND TO THE GRIME: CLEANING BLINDS
Blinds are dust magnets and they also tend to get a bit sticky and grimy. This solution works on blinds that are vinyl, metal, or finished wood. Dust the blinds first with either a feather duster, flat-head lamb’s wool duster, or a specially-made tool for dusting blinds that slides around the top and bottom of each slat. If they’re particularly dusty, you can also vacuum the blind using a brush or nozzle attachment. Then you can use this solution to shine them up and get any lingering grime. This solution also works on doors and cabinets, such as closet doors, that are louvered. You’ll probably feel a bit silly using this method, but trust me, it’s the most effective way to clean blinds quickly.
Mix warm water and white vinegar in a 50/50 solution in a bowl. Position the blinds in a neutral position so each slat is perfectly straight and perpendicular to the floor. Place a thick sock on your hand and dip into the mixture, saturating the sock, but then wring it out a bit so it isn’t sopping wet. Grasp one slat with your socked-hand and slide it along, rubbing if you feel any built-up grime. Dip, wring, and repeat with the next slat. Keep going until you’ve cleaned each blind. If it looks like there is still dirt, fill a new bucket with warm water and repeat the process with just warm water. Let thoroughly air dry before changing the position of the blinds. For louvered doors, if the louvers move, you can use this process exactly. If the louvers don’t move, you’ll need to do this process on both sides of the door or shutter.
If your plastic blinds are too grimy for a gentle clean like this, give them a bathtub soak. Fill the bathtub with warm water and add 2–4 tablespoons of castile soap. Add the blinds, swish them around well, and use a gentle brush or rag to get the grime loosened. Let them soak for 30–45 minutes. Rinse well and let dry thoroughly on towels before hanging up again.
For wooden blinds, use the wood polish recipe above to get them gleaming in the sunlight.
KEEPING UP WITH UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE
Upholstered furniture is comfortable and cozy, but it is a bit harder to clean than hardwood furniture. Have no fear; a few simple tips can keep your upholstered furniture in tip-top shape.
Weekly Clean:
Clean your upholstered furniture weekly to prevent dust bunnies and crumbs from getting ground into corners and creases. Remove any removable pieces, such as arm rest covers, pillows, and cushions. Check for and remove any items (coins, pens, paper clips, toys, hair accessories) that have fallen into the crevices. Pull up the upholstery if you can around the seams and in corners. Vacuum into all of the creases and seams. Take a damp rag and wipe the creases and seams to collect any additional crumbs and dust. Leave the cushions off until fully dry.
Spot Clean for Spills: If the area where you’ve spilled is able to be removed (ie. a couch cushion cover), remove it so you can work more easily on the stain and not get the cushion itself wet. If not, no worries. Often, a little dish soap and sparkling water gently blotted into the spot immediately will take it right up. If you have a particularly troublesome spill, try these ideas:
Ink: Soak the spot with rubbing alcohol. Blot gently. Let dry on its own.
Oil (including food oils such as butter, cheese, dressing): Immediately put baking soda on the stain. Let that sit for a minute or two. Then saturate the stain with water. Add a dab of shampoo. Gently blot the shampoo into the stain. Keep blotting with clean water to get the shampoo and the oil out.
Coffee/Tea: Saturate and wring out a towel with warm water and press it deeply onto the spot to soak up the liquid. Then saturate another towel with white vinegar and press that into the spot.
Blood: Use sparkling water to gently blot the spot, focusing on the edges of the stain.
Permanent Marker/Marker/Highlighter: Soak the spot with rubbing alcohol, gently blotting.
Red Wine: If possible, pour white wine on the spot immediately. If you don’t have white wine, use seltzer water. Sprinkle the stain with baking soda and blot with white vinegar. Vacuum up the baking soda if necessary.
LATHER UP YOUR LEATHER COUCH:
CLEANING LEATHER FURNITURE
Your expensive leather furniture should last you for years; decades, even, if properly cared for. But leather is finicky, and doesn’t like a lot of cleaners that will soak into the leather and damage it slowly. So stay away from acids like vinegar and food products like coconut oil that will eventually turn rancid (and likely change the color of your leather).
Clean: Regular cleanings of your leather furniture is the best way to keep on top of its care and prevent deeper issues like peeling, cracking, and pitting. First, thoroughly vacuum the couch, paying special attention to seams, cracks, and pockets. Then, mix 2 cups of warm water with 2 tablespoons of castile soap. Use a soft rag that is barely moistened with the mixture (do not use too much water on leather) and rub the leather with the grain. Use a dry rag to ensure the sofa and its cushions are completely dry before putting them back together again.
Condition: It is important to use a commercial leather cleaning product here, one that is labeled for upholstery leather (not car or shoe/bag leather) as the natural pH level of leather is hard to match when creating a product yourself. Most homemade recipes use a food-based oil and/or vinegar, both of which should be avoided. Use a soft rag and work the product into the leather with the grain.
Stain Removal: Gentle, organic baby wipes can help remove some stains. If there is a grease stain, sprinkle cornstarch or baking soda on the spot immediately to soak up the grease. For ink stains, spray the area with hairspray or dab with a bit of rubbing alcohol. Plain white toothpaste can also work by rubbing it gently into darker spots, then blotting it clean with a damp cloth.
CLEANING A MICROFIBER COUCH OR CHAIR
Microfiber couches are incredibly soft and snuggly and give the appearance of suede without the expense. Microfiber is much easier to clean than suede is. A little spritz of this, a little rub with that, and voila, it looks like it just rolled off the factory line! Be sure to test this in an inconspicuous spot, but it should work for all colors. Use a white or light-colored sponge and brush for light-colored upholstery so the color from dying the bristles doesn’t transfer to your couch. Use a toothbrush to clean seams and pockets.
Mix in an 8-ounce spray bottle. Shake well before use.
To Use: Spray liberally onto small sections of the couch at a time. Ensure the fabric is wet, but not soaked. Then use your sponge to scrub the fabric in an up and down motion with the grain of the fabric. Rinse your sponge in water frequently to prevent transferring dirt from one area to another. Wring it out well before continuing (to prevent adding water to the couch’s fibers). It’s important to fully work the rubbing alcohol in each section and not just let it sit, or you’ll be left with water spots where it soaked in too much and dried too quickly. You can fix those by repeating this process. Repeat this process over the entire couch or chair, using a clean toothbrush to scrub tighter spots. Let air dry. Then use a soft bristled brush (such as a dish brush) to fluff and restore the fibers, again, going with the grain, over the entire surface.
ORANGE + CLOVE CARPET REFRESH POWDER
Vacuuming is one of the quickest ways to make the house look clean if you only have a few minutes to tidy before company. Add this powder to refresh the carpet even further. Baking soda deodorizes, while food-grade diatomaceous earth is a natural insecticide that repels bugs, particularly fleas, cockroaches, and bed bugs. Essential oils of clove and orange not only smell delicious, they also repel bugs and add a refreshing scent to any room. There are two ways to use this powder: for a quick refresh in the moment, or for a deeper clean overnight. Don’t forget this works for low-pile rugs, too. A container with a shake-top works well. You can punch holes in the lid of a mason jar for an easy DIY solution or use a glass sugar shaker designed for coffee. I prefer to use cornstarch instead of baking soda as the cornstarch is less abrasive to carpet fibers. The key is to use this lightly—no need to oversaturate your carpet, which can cause long-term damage. A little here and there works wonders. Put your vacuum on the highest power setting it has to be sure you vacuum up all of the powder.
• ½ cup cornstarch
• ½ cup food-grade diatomaceous earth
• 20 drops clove essential oil
• 20 drops orange essential oil
Mix the cornstarch and food-grade diatomaceous earth together well. Add essential oils and mix well.
Quick Refresh: Sprinkle powder lightly over trouble areas. Vacuum well.
Deeper Clean: Sprinkle liberally over carpet surface. Use a stiff-bristled brush to work the powder into the carpet. Let sit at least overnight; 24 hours is preferable. Vacuum well.
BEAT IT, DUST: CLEANING RUGS
Rugs are a bit of a different animal than carpets. Carpets can take a beating, but rugs are more sensitive. Expensive imported rugs required extra care, whereas many inexpensive rugs will shred at the slightest wrong move.
Low-pile rugs: Vacuuming is usually a good place to start with low pile rugs. Use a brush attachment on the hose of your vacuum to vacuum delicate rugs; use an angle brush to get into seams if there is a binding on the edge of your rug. Be careful with fringe, and try not to suck it up, which just causes a tangled mess. You can use carpet refresh powder (pg. 102) on some rugs that are more like carpets, but test it on a small part of the rug before using it on delicate rugs. The old-fashioned idea of beating a rug out of doors actually works, and yes, you can still purchase rattan rug beaters. Place a rug over a sturdy surface, such as a porch railing, and beat the underside of the rug with the rug beater to loosen and shake up dust. Vacuum afterward if possible.
Cleaning low-pile rugs is fairly simple, too. Most rugs can take a light vinegar washing. Mix half white vinegar and half warm water. Soak and wring out a rag, and give the rug a gentle scrubbing using the rag or a light brush. Do not get the rug too wet. Use a hair dryer to dry the rug.
Set-in stains might be removed with a gentle iron and a wet rag. Place a wet rag, saturated in the vinegar and water mixture, over the stain, and use a steam iron set to steam and the heat setting for the material of your rug, and gently iron over the rag.
High-pile rugs: A pet brush works well for getting tangles out of shag or high-pile carpets. Small high-pile rugs can be thrown in the bathtub with a tiny amount of castile soap and given a good swish around, as well as a brush. Dry thoroughly and as quickly as possible, then brush again to revive the fluff factor. You can use an upholstery attachment on your vacuum to vacuum high-pile rugs without risking damage, but test it first on a small corner.
BEHIND THE BOOKSHELVES:
CLEANING BOOKSHELVES AND ARMOIRES
Bookshelves get dusty; we all know that. They can use a good shine every once in a while, too, especially because hands are constantly grabbing things off them, leaving greasy fingerprints. You’ll want to take everything off the bookshelf and move it away from the wall if you can to give it a thorough clean. You might not have realized they were dirty, but when they’re clean and back in place, you’ll notice the difference.
First: Vacuum well behind the bookshelf; chances are, dust bunnies have made their home here. You’ll also probably find things that have fallen behind the bookshelf, so remove those.
Then: Mix together half white vinegar and half warm water, and spray this on the back of the bookshelf. Use a soft rag to wipe clean. Don’t put the bookshelf back against the wall until it is completely dry. Use this same spray on the shelves, sides, and bottoms. Don’t forget to get on a stepladder and clean the top, too. If your bookshelves are laminate, the vinegar in this recipe should restore the shine. If it doesn’t, spray a cloth lightly with rubbing alcohol and give the piece a final wipe down. If your shelves or armoire are hardwood, use the wood polishing recipe (pg. 91) to really make them shine.
CLOSE THE CURTAIN ON DIRTY CURTAINS
Most people don’t think to care for their curtains … we tend to forget that they gather dust and stains, somehow, during daily life, and look refreshed with a small amount of work.
A steamer is the best way to clean and refresh curtains of almost any material, including lace, silk, and acetate. Some curtains are machine washable; if so, throw them in the wash first, and steam them once they are hung back on the rods to get out wrinkles. However, many lined curtains are not machine washable. Some curtains, such as lace valances, can be hand-washed with a few drops of dish soap in a sink or bathtub. Make sure you get all traces of soap out, then lay them flat on towels or on the line to dry thoroughly before hanging them up again.
Wool: Steam clean
Textured silk (crepe, raw, etc.): Steam clean
Satin silk: Hand-wash, steam clean
Acetate: Steam clean
Lace: Hand-wash, steam clean
Cotton: Machine wash, steam clean
Polyester: Hand-wash and/or steam clean, depending on texture and weight
Freshly steamed curtains look so professional you’ll want to do it regularly for a crisp finish. I like to add a few drops of essential oil to the water reservoir of my handheld steamer. I tend to use lavender essential oil because it prevents moths, which love to hide in curtains. Steam from top to bottom, from the underside of the curtain. Steaming on top of the curtain will help a little, but when you pull the curtain taut and steam from the underside you’ll get a much better result.
TAMING THE FINGERPRINTS ON TELEVISION SCREENS AND ELECTRONICS
Televisions, computers, and other electronics collect dust, there’s just no way around it. But these delicate screens can be permanently damaged by some cleaning chemicals, particularly ammonia, present in many commercial glass cleaners. Dusting your electronics regularly is the best way to keep them from needing a good clean.
For both methods, be sure to turn off the TV, unplug it, and let it cool thoroughly before attempting to clean. You don’t need to shock yourself in pursuit of a smudge-free screen!
LCD screens: LCD screens can usually be cleaned with simple distilled or boiled and THOROUGHLY COOLED water. Gently spray or rub the water onto the screen using left-to-right, top to bottom motions. Don’t press too hard. If water alone doesn’t cut through the smudges and marks, add in a bit of 90% isopropyl alcohol, 2 tablespoons per 8 ounces of water.
Plasma screens: Plasma screens can be a bit more tricky, so using a gentle DRY cloth to wipe it clean is your first option. If that doesn’t work, a very lightly moistened soft towel with distilled water is your next option. Otherwise, you might need to purchase a commercial cleaning kit to avoid damaging this delicate screen.
Glass screens: Glass screens can be cleaned using the same method as LCD screens above, and a bit more elbow grease if necessary.
Of course, any plastic areas surrounding the computer can be cleaned with the alcohol and water solution as well.
BEHIND THE FURNITURE: BASEBOARD CLEANING
Baseboards have a nasty habit of developing a thick black coating on the rims. They’re an easily forgotten space of the house; that is, until you need to get on your hands and knees to plug something in and realize how dirty they really are.
First, remove furniture and rugs from the walls of the room, and use your angle attachment on your vacuum to get into the crevice between the carpet and the baseboard.
Then, gently mix 2 cups warm water and 2 tablespoons castile soap in a small bucket or bowl. Dip the corner of a rag into the mixture and start cleaning around the baseboards. Use a toothbrush dipped in the mixture, too, if necessary, to get into those crevices. Work in small sections.
Lastly, take a fresh, dry cloth and wipe the baseboards dry.
Extra Tip: Use this same process on ceiling crown molding. Be extra careful and ask for assistance if you’re up on a ladder.
DON’T CIRCULATE DUST: CLEANING CEILING FANS
Looking up when you’re relaxing on the couch and noticing an unsightly rim of dust and grime on your fan blades sure ruins the moment. But getting on a ladder and wobbling around to clean your ceiling fan is probably low on your list of priorities. Until you think that every time you turn that fan on, some of that dust is swirling into the air you’re breathing. Here’s a simple way to clean the fan without collapsing in a dust cloud.
Keep an old standard size pillowcase on hand for this task. In an 8-ounce spray bottle, mix half white vinegar and half distilled or boiled and cooled water. Add 10 drops geranium essential oil. Shake well. Spray the interior of the pillowcase until it is moist all around. You can also spray the fan blades. Now, carefully get on a stepladder and place the pillowcase over the blade. Grasp the fan blade through the pillowcase with both hands and pull it tightly toward you, scraping the edges of the fan and gathering the dust inside the pillowcase. Move to the next blade, and, adjusting to a clean part of the pillowcase, repeat.
Follow up by using the mixture on a soft cloth to get any lingering spots and to clean the base of the fan.
LET THERE BE (CLEAN) LIGHT:
CLEANING LAMPS, SHADES, AND LIGHTBULBS
Bet you never thought to clean your lightbulbs, huh? But now that we have long-lasting LED lightbulbs, they last for years and therefore may collect an alarming amount of dust. Lamps also love to collect dead bugs, which is gross if the fixture is hanging and you can see the bugs when you look up at the light. Time for a good dusting and bath.
Let lamps and light fixtures cool down completely, unplug if possible, and remove the lightbulbs from the fixtures before attempting cleaning. Gently clean lightbulbs with a soft cloth dipped in warm water. Do not apply too much pressure, and do not clean the base where it attaches to the light fixture.
Glass light fixtures can be removed and soaked in a warm water and castile soap bath. Let dry thoroughly before attaching to the fixture again.
Lampshades are a bit trickier, since they cannot be washed. Dust and vacuum them to get off loose dirt, using an upholstery brush and angle tip on your vacuum. If dust is the only problem, you can also use a lint roller to get any lingering dust and fuzz.
Then, assess the construction and materials of your lampshade. If they are paper, or glued together rather than sewn, avoid getting any moisture at the seams that will cause the glue to fail. For fabric shades that are sewn, you can use a light mixture of 1 cup warm water mixed with 2 tablespoons white vinegar and 1 or 2 drops of lavender essential oil. Dampen a cloth and gently clean the lampshade. Let dry thoroughly before reattaching.
For the base of the lamp, cleaning methods will depend on what it is made from. Wood bases can use the wood polishing recipe (pg. 91), glass bases the glass cleaner (pg. 77), and so forth. Plastic and other nonspecific bases can be cleaned using the same mixture you used on the lampshade above.
