TORTILLAS AND TORTILLA DISHES
What is it that goes along the foothills of the mountains patting out tortillas with its hands? A butterfly.
—FROM Náhuatl Proverbs, Conundrums, and Metaphors COLLECTED BY SAHAGÚN; TRANSLATED BY THELMA D. SULLIVAN
You always know when you are nearing a Mexican village anytime during the morning; there is that unmistakable smell of wood smoke intermingled with that of tortillas cooking on the comal, and the rhythmic patting of hands as the masa is fashioned into tortillas—I am told it takes thirty-three pats. Unwittingly your steps quicken to make sure you arrive in time to try one straight off the comal with a few grains of rough salt. It is one of those simple eating experiences that cannot be equaled.
When I went to Mexico for the first time in the late fifties I wondered why people were so passionate about such humble, everyday food, but it did not take long for me to become an aficionado of the first degree. In those days the commercial tortillas in the cities were quite good. I remember well that each little tortillería had its group of women and young girls standing around a high drum of a stove with a large circular metal top heated by huge gas jets, chatting and joking as they patted out hundreds upon hundreds of tortillas daily. But now things have changed, and the machine has taken over from start to finish. The art of tortear is dying fast, and more and more people are buying them ready-made.
In the tortillerías the ground masa is fed into a large hopper and pushed out at the bottom through a press, which stamps the tortillas out onto a narrow conveyor belt. The tortilla goes on its way as the belt jiggles over jets of hot flame; the belt goes just so far and then doubles back in such a way that the tortilla is flipped over, and as it cooks through it starts to puff and dance, and very soon it is thrown onto a fast-growing pile in a cloth-lined basket on the floor.
And how the tortilla can vary from one region to another! But for me the Oaxaca Valley still holds pride of place with its delicious, white blandas—large, thin, white tortillas. Nowhere else are they quite as fine. There are tortillas made of corn of different colors: blue, yellow, red, purple, and variegated, depending on what is grown or local tastes. In some more remote areas the masa can be mixed with wheat, or wild greens, or roots of the banana plant, coconut, and other ingredients, not only for flavor but also to extend the masa as the corn supply dwindles at the end of the season.
I learned very quickly during my years in Mexico that a tortilla is never thrown away: fresh and pliable, it is used as an edible spoon; wrapped around food and seasoned with one of a hundred sauces, it becomes a taco. When a tortilla is slightly stale and dry, it can be cut into small pieces, fried, and cooked in a sauce as chilaquiles; or fried crisp in triangles, it becomes a little shovel for a dip; fried crisp in strips, it can be used like croutons to top a soup. When a tortilla is thoroughly dried out, it can be ground to a textured consistency, moistened, and reformed to make gordas, little fat cakes, or balls to drop into a soup. Tortillas can also be used like layers of pasta in a casserole, budin, or sopa seca.
Whole tortillas can be fried quite flat for tostadas and spread with bean paste and/or topped with shredded meat, crumbled cheese, vegetables; the variations are infinite. It is perhaps the most versatile piece of foodstuff in the world!
The recipes that follow provide a small sampling of what exists, but there are no hard-and-fast rules here and your imagination can do the rest.
PREPARATION OF DRIED CORN FOR TORTILLA MASA
No meal in Mexico is complete without the corn tortilla to accompany it. The tortilla is made of dried corn cooked with lime (calcium oxide) and ground to a masa, or dough.
The first lesson a young Mexican woman living in the country learns is how to prepare the nixtamal (the corn cooked in a solution of lime and water) for the next day’s tortillas. Because it is such an intuitive thing among my neighbors, they find it impossible to give precise quantities of lime or the time for cooking the corn. I have often asked them, “How much lime do I need for one kilo of dried corn?” and the answer is “Lo necesario,” and to the question “How long do I cook the corn?” the answer is “When you shake the olla the corn should no longer sound like raw beans.” So there you have it … but since I have often watched the process and done it myself under their watchful eyes, I feel a little more qualified to explain it here.
Pick over the dried corn to make sure there are no stones or other rarities. Rinse in cold water and put into a large, nonreactive pot. Cover with cold water—it should come about 2 inches (5 cm) above the surface of the corn. Bring the water up to a simmer, stir in the powdered lime—1 heaped tablespoon for 2 pounds (900 g) dried corn—and the outer skin of the kernels will almost immediately turn an intense yellow. Continue cooking uncovered, stirring from time to time, over low heat until you can scrape the membranous skin from the kernels—this should take about 15 minutes. Make sure that you do not let the corn go past this stage because it will be overcooked, the masa gummy, and your tortillas a disaster.
Remove from heat, cover, and set aside for the corn to soak overnight. The following day, rinse the corn in fresh water, rubbing it a little to remove some of the skin and lime, drain, and repeat the process. Drain well; now you have nixtamal, ready to take to the mill to be ground to a very smooth dough.
If you add too much lime, your tortillas will be a dull yellowish color and taste slightly bitter, neja, and if you add too little, the skin cannot be softened and removed. But the lime does act as a preservative and in hot, humid weather you could go overboard if you are not using your masa right away (see note on lime).
TAMALE MASA
If you are making tamales that call for this masa (see Tamales chapter) you will need to rub all the skin meticulously from the kernels, leaving them as white as possible, then have the mill grind them to a textured dough.
For tamale recipes that require a very dry, textured masa, the nixtamal should be strained well and ground twice with the metal corn grinder available in all Mexican markets.
CORN TORTILLAS
MAKES 15 5-INCH (13-CM) TORTILLAS
A friend and great cook from Hidalgo, Señora Lara, once after a meal presented her guests with crisped tortilla halves sprinkled with salt. “Even if you think you have no room, eat it; it aids the digestion,” she said.
1¼ POUNDS (565 G) TORTILLA MASA (ABOUT 2¼ CUPS/563 ML), APPROXIMATELY
WATER IF NEEDED
2 1-QUART (1-L) PLASTIC BAGS FOR PRESSING TORTILLAS
If the tortilla masa has been freshly made, it will probably be the right consistency for working immediately—a soft, smooth dough. If the masa has been sitting around and drying out a little, then add a very little water and knead until it’s smooth and pliable, not the slightest bit crumbly.
Divide the dough into 15 equal parts—each one should weigh just over 1 ounce (30 g)—and roll into smooth balls about 1½ inches (4 cm) in diameter. Place all but one of the balls under plastic wrap so they do not dry out.
Heat an ungreased comal or griddle over medium heat. Open up the tortilla press and place a small plastic bag (Alligator Baggies are ideal but may be hard to find) on the bottom plate. Place a ball of the dough on the bottom plastic bag, a little off center toward the hinge rather than the pressing lever (it presses too thin on that side), and press it out with your fingers to flatten it a little. Cover with the second plastic bag and press down firmly but not too fiercely (or the dough will be too thin and you will never be able to pry it off the bag in one piece). Open the press, remove the top bag, lift the bottom bag up in one hand, place the dough onto the fingers of your other hand, and very carefully peel the bag off the flattened dough. Do not try to peel the dough off the bag.
Keeping your hand as horizontal as possible, lay the tortilla flat onto the comal. There should be a slight sizzle as the dough touches the surface of the comal. Leave for about 15 seconds; the underside will have opaque patches and be slightly speckled with brown. Flip the tortilla over onto the second side and cook for another 30 seconds; the underside should now be opaque and speckled. Flip back onto the first side again and cook for 15 seconds more.
If you have done all the correct things and the comal is the correct heat, the tortilla should puff up, showing that the extra moisture has dried out of the dough. If the tortilla doesn’t puff up and it’s necessary in order to make panuchos, for example, then press it gently on the last turn with your fingers or a towel.
As the tortillas are made, they should be placed one on top of the other in a basket or gourd lined with a cloth to preserve the heat and keep them moist and flabby.
Tortillas can be made ahead and reheated and can also be frozen.
VARIATION
TORTILLAS MADE WITH QUAKER MASA HARINA
MAKES ABOUT 15 5-INCH (13-CM) TORTILLAS
2 CUPS (500 ML) QUAKER MASA HARINA (10½ OUNCES/300 G) OR MASECA
1⅓ CUPS (325 ML) WATER, APPROXIMATELY
2 1-QUART (1-L) PLASTIC BAGS SUCH AS ALLIGATOR BAGGIES FOR PRESSING TORTILLAS
Mix the masa harina with the water and work well so that it is evenly distributed through the flour and forms a cohesive mass when pressed together. The dough should be of medium consistency, neither too firm nor wet and sticky. Set aside for about ½ hour.
Follow the instructions for making tortillas in the preceding recipe.
NOTE: Tortillas made of this powdered product are not suitable for chilaquile and layered casserole dishes, as they disintegrate easily.
TORTILLAS DE QUINTONIL Corn Tortillas with Wild Greens
MAESTRA GUDELIA LÓPEZ
MAKES 15 4½-INCH (11.5-CM) TORTILLAS
On one of my trips to Tlaxiaco in the northern Mixtec region of Oaxaca, I met a retired schoolmistress who came from a small isolated village not too far from Tlaxiaco. During her working life she had lived and taught in many remote areas and was familiar with the foods prepared there. Of the many she talked about, this recipe caught my fancy.
There are many examples of extending the corn masa for the daily tortillas by adding other ingredients: wheat, the root of the banana plant (or so I’m told), mango pits, and so on, as well as this recipe for adding cooked wild greens. These tortillas would have been made if the corn crop was poor, or stores were dwindling at the end of the year, or simply because people liked the flavor; they are certainly nutritious.
Tortillas with wild greens of various types were generally served alone with some sauce and perhaps, if the budget allowed, a little cheese. They make a very tasty snack and you could make them bite-size to serve with drinks. Although quintoniles (Amaranthus spp.) are called for, spinach can be substituted: 1¼ pounds (570 g) raw greens will make about 1 cup (250 ml) cooked.
1 CUP (250 ML) COOKED SPINACH
1½ CUPS (375 ML) TORTILLA MASA
SALT TO TASTE
Squeeze as much of the liquid as possible out of the spinach and chop as finely as possible. Put into a bowl with the masa and salt and mix with your hands. Divide the mixture into about 15 portions and roll each into a ball about 1¼ inches (3.25 cm) in diameter.
Heat an ungreased comal or griddle over medium heat.
Using a tortilla press lined with a plastic bag, flatten each of the balls out to about 4½ inches (11.5 cm) and cook for about 2 minutes on each side. Serve immediately, alone or with a sauce and queso fresco.
TORTILLAS DE HARINA DE TRIGO Flour Tortillas
MAKES ABOUT 10 TORTILLAS
Mexico produces wheat as well as corn. The most important wheat-growing area is the flat, irrigated land in Sonora and the northern part of Sinaloa. Tortillas of wheat flour (tortillas de harina de trigo) are common all over the north of Mexico, but they really come into their own in Sonora. There are the sweet ones, thicker and shorter, more like pastry, usually called tortillas de manteca (lard tortillas); and then the largest tortillas in Mexico (tortillas de agua), as thin as tissue paper and about 18 inches (46 cm) across. When served with a meal these come to the table folded into quarters and wrapped in a napkin. Folded just like that they are often used for burritos—rolled around a filling of meat or machaca (dried beef) or beans.
Most people buy the large tortillas ready-made, since it takes skill to produce them without a great deal of practice, but in 1971 Señor Colores, a restaurant owner in Hermosillo, had them made for his restaurants daily, and I went there to see how they were prepared.
An older couple who had worked for him for years were making them. They rolled the dough into 2-inch (5-cm) balls and let them sit a while. To make the tortilla, they rolled and stretched the dough until it was translucent—this has to be done with lightly greased hands. Then they cooked it on a comal over a hot wood fire. After a few seconds it ballooned up and had to be flattened back onto the comal. They flipped it over, just a few seconds more, and then stacked it on top of the others, wrapped up in a cloth to keep them moist and warm.
The recipe they gave me was “a handful of lard to a kilo of flour, salt, and water. Hot water if the weather is cold; cold water if the weather is hot.” Later on I had one toasted crisp with the biggest piece of meat, cooked over the wood fire, that I have ever seen on any plate.
You can make the dough either by hand or with an electric mixer.
1 POUND (450 G) BREAD FLOUR (FROM HARD WINTER WHEAT)
4 OUNCES (115 G) SOFTENED VEGETABLE SHORTENING (ABOUT ½ CUP/125 ML)
1 SCANT TEASPOON SALT
ABOUT 1 CUP (250 ML) WARM WATER
Put the flour onto a work surface or pastry board. Rub the fat into the flour with your fingertips. Dissolve the salt in the warm water and mix into the flour, a little at a time, so that you can see how much the flour will absorb. Using a plastic dough scraper, gather up all the flour around the periphery and work the dough into a cohesive mass—about 2 minutes with the mixer, 4 minutes by hand.
Divide the dough into 10 equal parts—about 3 ounces (85 g) each—and roll into very smooth balls about 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Cover with well-greased plastic wrap and set aside for at least 20 minutes or up to 2 hours.
Heat an ungreased comal or griddle over medium heat.
Flatten one of the balls on a lightly floured work surface and roll it out, with a dowel for a rolling pin, to form a 6-inch (15-cm) circle. Now it is a matter of choice about thinness and size. You can stretch the dough like a pizza to about 15 inches (38 cm) in diameter.
Carefully lay the tortilla on the griddle; it should sizzle if the heat is correct.
The dough will become opaque and the bottom slightly browned in patches. Turn the tortilla over and cook on the second side; the whole process should take less than ½ minute. Do not overcook or the tortilla will become hard instead of soft and pliable.
As soon as each tortilla is cooked, stack inside a cloth.
These tortillas keep well and, although I hesitate to say so, can be prepared well ahead and reheated on a warm comal.
BURRITOS
Flour tortillas filled and rolled up become burritos. They can be filled with the following:
Burritos can also be fried crisp, just like a fried taco, at which point they become chivichangas.
All of these should be served with Salsa de Jitomate Sonorense.
ENCHILADAS
Enchiladas, a greasy tortilla sandwich containing chilies and a number of uninviting looking compounds and other nasty messes, are sold everywhere, filling the air with a pungent, nauseous smell.
—“THROUGH THE LAND OF THE AZTECS” BY “A GRINGO,” 1883
So many aficionados of the enchilada would heartily disagree, I among them, because enchiladas can be so delicious and satisfying. Again it all depends on the care with which they are put together and on making sure they’re not too greasy.
There are two main types: the tortilla is either first fried and then dipped into a cooked chile sauce or the tortilla is first dipped into a sauce and then fried—a messy business with delicious results!
Here are just a few examples of an endless array of regional recipes.
ENCHILADAS PLACERAS O POLLO DE PLAZA
SERVES 6
This is the most substantial supper dish of enchiladas and chicken that I know of. As dusk falls in Pátzcuaro the sidewalks become alive with activity as small stands are assembled: tables, benches, improvised stoves with large metal comales, and gas tanks, all sheltered by canvas or plastic awnings for when the rains start. It seems that every family in town comes out to eat this colorful and delicious evening fare. Granted it’s a little bit greasy, but once in a while! … Actually I have given suggestions for cutting down on the amount of oil, but do leave the skin on the chicken!
There are only very slight variations of recipes from stand to stand: some cooks use only guajillo chiles, the quality of the cheese varies, and it’s difficult to choose among the enchiladas of the many cooks who devote themselves to this evening ritual, either in Patzcuaro or in the Plaza San Agustín in Morelia.
Every element of this dish can be prepared ahead so there is just the final frying and no waiting around to eat; it is pan-to-mouth food!
8 OUNCES (225 G) RED BLISS OR WAXY NEW POTATOES (3 SMALL ONES), UNPEELED
8 OUNCES (225 G) CARROTS (3 MEDIUM)
1 TEASPOON SALT
⅓ CUP (85 ML) MILD VINEGAR
3 GUAJILLO CHILES, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
3 ANCHO CHILES, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
ABOUT 1½ CUPS (375 ML) WATER
2 GARLIC CLOVES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 SLICE WHITE ONION
¼ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO
SALT TO TASTE
LARD OR VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 FRESHLY MADE TORTILLAS
8 OUNCES (225 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED AND LIGHTLY SALTED (ABOUT 1⅓ CUPS/333 ML)
½ CUP (125 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
A 3-POUND (1.35-KG) CHICKEN, POACHED AND CUT INTO SERVING PIECES
STRIPS OF CANNED JALAPEÑO CHILES EN ESCABECHE
⅔ CUP (165 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
1 CUP (250 ML) FINELY SHREDDED LETTUCE OR RAW CABBAGE
¼ CUP (65 ML) GRATED QUESO AÑEJO, OR SUBSTITUTE ROMANO OR SARDO
Rinse the potatoes and cut them into small cubes; scrape the carrots and cut them into smaller cubes. Cover the carrots with boiling water, add the salt, and cook them for about 5 minutes over high heat. Add the potatoes and cook them for about 8 minutes—they should still be al dente—then drain.
Cover the vegetables with cold water and add the vinegar. Stir and set aside.
Heat a griddle and toast the chiles lightly, turning constantly so they don’t burn.
Cover the chiles with hot water and leave them to soak for 10 minutes.
Put ½ cup (125 ml) of the water into a blender jar, add the guajillos, and blend until smooth. Strain. Add the remaining 1 cup (250 ml) water, the anchos, garlic, and onion and blend until smooth. Add the guajillo puree, the oregano, and salt to taste.
Melt a little of the lard, and when it is sizzling, dip each tortilla into the raw sauce—it should just lightly cover it (if the sauce is too thick dilute it with a little more water) and fry it quickly on both sides.
Remove from the frying pan and put about 1 scant tablespoon of the cheese and ½ tablespoon of the onion across each tortilla. Roll them up loosely and set them side by side on the serving dish. Keep warm.
In the same fat, fry the pieces of chicken until they are golden brown. Drain and arrange them around the enchiladas.
In the same fat, fry the vegetables until just beginning to brown, and drain well. In the same fat, cook the remaining sauce for a few moments and pour it over the enchiladas. Cover with the fried vegetables.
Top with the chile strips and on each serving add a spoonful of sour cream and a sprinkling of cheese, with lettuce on the side.
NOTE: To reduce the amount of oil, drain the fried vegetables in a strainer and shake gently. Coat the chicken pieces with the chile sauce and place under a hot broiler, turning them from time to time so that they are evenly cooked.
ENCHILADAS DE JALISCO
SEÑORA VICTORIA MARÍN DE TECHUELO
SERVES 6
In preparing this dish I have followed, word for word, the cooking methods of Señora Victoria Marín de Techuelo, a marvelous cook and daughter of one of the most distinguished cooks in Jalisco, because behind every step there is a reason: to enhance either the flavor or the texture of each ingredient.
In Mexico, queso añejo would be used, and the dish would be served with frutas en vinagre—such vegetables as carrots, beans, zucchini, onion, and chiles preserved in a fruity vinegar.
If you are making your own tortillas, try to make them puff up on the comal so that while they are still warm you can remove the thin, loose layer of dough on top, which is then discarded. Or try and buy them freshly made, then reheat them and remove the top layer. The reason for this is so that the tortillas are as thin as possible.
I have prepared this dish of enchiladas at least 3 hours ahead, taking care that the filling was not too juicy or it would make the tortillas soggy, and that the extra chile sauce was poured down the sides and over the top of the enchiladas just before they were put into the oven.
1 ZUCCHINI SQUASH (ABOUT 4 OUNCES/115 G)
2 SMALL CARROTS (ABOUT 4 OUNCES/115 G)
3 SMALL RED BLISS OR WAXY NEW POTATOES (ABOUT 8 OUNCES/225 G)
2 TEASPOONS SALT, OR TO TASTE
8 OUNCES (225 G) GROUND PORK
8 OUNCES (225 G) GROUND BEEF
SALT TO TASTE
1 POUND (450 G) TOMATOES
3 TABLESPOONS LARD
½ CUP (125 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1 TABLESPOON FINELY CHOPPED PARSLEY
⅓ CUP (85 ML) RESERVED MEAT BROTH
10 GUAJILLO CHILES (ABOUT 2 OUNCES/60 G), VEINS AND SEEDS REMOVED
1 CUP (250 ML) RESERVED MEAT BROTH
2 WHOLE CLOVES, CRUSHED
¼-INCH (.75-CM) PIECE OF CINNAMON STICK, CRUSHED
SALT TO TASTE
2 TABLESPOONS LARD
¼ CUP (65 ML) LARD
24 4-INCH (10-CM) HOMEMADE TORTILLAS
SHREDDED LETTUCE
THINLY SLICED RADISHES
STRIPS OF JALAPEÑO CHILES EN ESCABECHE
¼ CUP (65 ML) GRATED QUESO AÑEJO, OR SUBSTITUTE ROMANO OR SARDO
½ CUP (125 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
Trim the squash and leave whole. Trim and scrape the carrots and cut into quarters lengthwise. Peel the potatoes and cut into halves. Cover the vegetables with boiling water in a large saucepan, add the salt, and let them cook for 5 minutes.
Mix the meat with salt to taste. Press tightly into two large balls and add them, with the whole tomatoes, to the vegetables in the pan. Cover and cook all together over low heat until the vegetables are just tender—do not overcook—and the meat balls are almost cooked through—about 10 minutes. Drain and reserve the broth.
When the vegetables are cool enough to handle, chop them into small cubes and set aside.
Blend the tomatoes for a few seconds. Set aside.
Melt the lard in a large skillet and cook the onion until translucent.
Crumble the cooked meat balls into the pan, add the parsley, and fry for about 5 minutes over medium heat. Add the blended tomato puree and cook over brisk heat until some of the juice has evaporated. Add the broth and vegetables and continue cooking the mixture until it is well seasoned—about 10 minutes. Add salt as necessary. Set aside.
Heat a comal and toast the chiles lightly, turning them constantly, since they burn very quickly. Cover the chiles with hot water in a bowl and leave to soak for about 10 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a blender jar. Add the broth, blend, and strain to remove any traces of the tough skin, return to the blender, add the spices and salt, and blend until smooth.
Melt the lard and cook the sauce until it is well seasoned and a rich, dark-red color—about 8 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350° F (180° C).
Heat a little of the lard in a skillet, and fry the tortillas on both sides, adding more lard as necessary—they should just soften and heat through in the hot fat. Pile one on top of the other between sheets of toweling and keep warm.
Dip the tortillas into the sauce, which should lightly cover them (if it is too thick, then add a little more broth). Place some of the picadillo across each tortilla and roll up. Put one layer of the enchiladas in the bottom of an ovenproof dish about 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Pour a little of the remaining sauce over them. Then place another enchilada layer on top and pour over the rest of the sauce.
Cover the dish and heat the enchiladas through in the oven for about 15 minutes, then serve immediately, topped with the lettuce, radishes, and canned chiles, and sprinkled with the cheese and chopped onion.
NOTE: The chile sauce and tortillas can be done the day before, but the picadillo really has to be prepared the same day or the potato gets that warmed-over taste. To heat the enchiladas through, cover tightly with foil so that the top layer does not get dried up. They should just fit snugly into the dish used.
I do not recommend freezing.
ENCHILADAS SENCILLAS Simple Enchiladas
MAKES 12 ENCHILADAS
1 POUND (450 G) TOMATOES, BROILED
1 GARLIC CLOVE
2 FRESH SERRANO CHILES, TOASTED
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
SALT TO TASTE
½ CUP (125 ML) THICK SOUR CREAM, AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 FRESHLY MADE TORTILLAS
7 LARGE EGGS, SCRAMBLED WITH PLENTY OF SALT, OR 1½ CUPS (375 ML) COOKED AND SHREDDED CHICKEN, WELL SALTED
1 CUP (250 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1 CUP (250 ML) GRATED CHIHUAHUA CHEESE OR CHEDDAR
In a blender, puree the tomatoes, garlic, and chiles until smooth—you’ll have about 2 cups (500 ml).
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the sauce for about 5 minutes, or until it has reduced and thickened. Add the salt. Set aside to cool a little.
Stir the sour cream well into the sauce and just heat it through gently. Do not let the sauce come to a boil after the cream has been added or it will curdle.
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry the tortillas quickly, one by one, without letting them become crisp around the edges.
Preheat the oven to 350° F (180° C).
Dip the tortillas into the warm sauce—they should be just lightly covered—then put about 2 tablespoons of the scrambled egg or shredded chicken across each tortilla and sprinkle it with a little of the onion. Roll the filled tortillas up loosely and set them side by side in an ovenproof dish.
Cover the enchiladas with the remaining sauce and sprinkle with the cheese and remaining onion. Put the dish into the oven and just heat them through for a very short time, no more than 10 minutes. Serve immediately.
NOTE: A good alternative would be to use Salsa de Tomate Verde. Like all enchiladas, they go rather soggy if left to stand around after they are prepared.
I do not recommend freezing.
ENCHILADAS ROJAS DE AGUASCALIENTES Red Enchiladas
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 ENCHILADAS
4 ANCHO CHILES, WIPED CLEAN, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED, LIGHTLY TOASTED
1½ CUPS (375 ML) HOT MILK
SALT TO TASTE
1 GARLIC CLOVE
1 HARD-COOKED EGG YOLK
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS
8 OUNCES (225 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT 1½ CUPS/375 ML)
1 CUP (250 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1 HARD-COOKED EGG WHITE, FINELY CHOPPED
1½ CUPS (375 ML) FINELY SHREDDED LETTUCE
6 RADISHES, THINLY SLICED
STRIPS OF JALAPEÑO CHILES EN ESCABECHE
Tear the chiles into pieces and add to a blender jar with the milk and leave to soak for about 10 minutes. Add the salt, garlic, and egg yolk and blend until smooth. (You will have about 2 cups/500 ml of sauce; add water if necessary to make up that quantity.)
Heat the oil in a medium skillet, add the sauce, and cook for about 5 minutes over medium heat, stirring and scraping the sides and bottom of the pan from time to time. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry the tortillas, one by one, briefly on both sides. Drain well and keep warm.
Dip the tortillas, one by one, into the sauce. Fill each one with some of the cheese and onion, then roll and place side by side in a serving dish. Dilute the remaining sauce, if necessary, and pour it over the enchiladas. Top with the chopped egg white, the lettuce, sliced radishes, and chile strips and serve immediately.
ENCHILADAS VERDES DE AGUASCALIENTES Green Enchiladas
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 ENCHILADAS
3 POBLANO CHILES, CHARRED, PEELED, AND SEEDS REMOVED (NOT VEINS;)
2 LARGE ROMAINE LETTUCE LEAVES
1 WHOLE CLOVE, CRUSHED
1 CUP (250 ML) CHICKEN BROTH
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
SALT TO TASTE
½ CUP (125 ML) SOUR CREAM, COMMERCIAL OR HOMEMADE
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS
1½ TO 2 CUPS (375 TO 500 ML) COOKED, SHREDDED, AND WELL-SALTED CHICKEN
1½ CUPS (375 ML) FINELY SHREDDED LETTUCE
6 LARGE RADISHES, THINLY SLICED
½ CUP (125 ML) PITTED, HALVED GREEN OLIVES
Blend the chiles together with the lettuce, clove, and ½ cup (125 ml) of the chicken broth until very smooth.
Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a large skillet, add the sauce, and cook over fairly high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan to avoid sticking. Add the salt, sour cream, and the remaining ½ cup chicken broth and just heat through, then remove from the heat and keep warm.
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry the tortillas, one at a time, briefly on both sides. Drain well and keep warm.
Dip the tortillas, one by one, into the sauce, then fill each one with some of the chicken. Roll up and place side by side on a warmed dish. Pour the remaining sauce over the enchiladas, top with the lettuce, sliced radishes, and olives, and serve immediately.
ENCHILADAS DE FRESNILLO
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 ENCHILADAS
3 ANCHO CHILES, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED, LIGHTLY TOASTED
¼-INCH (.75-CM) PIECE OF CINNAMON STICK, CRUSHED
1 WHOLE CLOVE, CRUSHED
⅛ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO
3 SPRIGS FRESH THYME OR ⅛ TEASPOON DRIED
3 SPRIGS FRESH MARJORAM OR ⅛ TEASPOON DRIED
3 PEPPERCORNS, CRUSHED
1 TABLESPOON SESAME SEEDS, TOASTED AND CRUSHED
¼ CUP (65 ML) SHELLED PEANUTS, TOASTED AND CRUSHED
1½ CUPS (375 ML) COLD WATER
SALT TO TASTE
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS
8 OUNCES (225 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT 1½ CUPS/375 ML)
1 MEDIUM WHITE ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
1 AVOCADO, THINLY SLICED
6 LARGE RADISHES, THINLY SLICED
¾ CUP (185 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
2 CHORIZOS, CRUMBLED AND FRIED
Cover the chiles with hot water and leave them to soak for about 5 minutes. Drain, then transfer the chiles to a blender jar, add the rest of the sauce ingredients, and blend until smooth.
Heat the oil in a skillet and cook the sauce over medium heat for about 8 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan almost constantly. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
One by one, fry the tortillas lightly on both sides, drain well, and keep them warm while you do the rest.
Dip the tortillas into the sauce, then fill each one with some of the cheese and onion. Roll up loosely and place side by side in the serving dish. Add a little water to the remaining sauce, then bring to a boil and pour over the enchiladas. Top with the avocado slices, sliced radishes, sour cream, and chorizos and serve immediately.
ENCHILADAS VERDES DE SAN LUIS POTOSÍ Green Enchiladas
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 ENCHILADAS
2 CUPS (500 ML) COOKED TOMATE VERDE, DRAINED
4 SERRANO CHILES
3 SPRIGS CILANTRO
⅓ CUP (85 ML) MILK
1 GARLIC CLOVE
SALT TO TASTE
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
2 TABLESPOONS SOUR CREAM, COMMERCIAL OR HOMEMADE
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS
1½ TO 2 CUPS (375 TO 500 ML) SHREDDED COOKED CHICKEN
¾ CUP (190 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
3 OUNCES (85 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT ½ CUP/125 ML)
½ CUP (125 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
Blend the tomate verde with the chiles, cilantro, milk, garlic, and salt until smooth.
Heat the oil in a large skillet and cook the sauce over fairly high heat until reduced and seasoned—about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the sour cream, and set aside. Keep warm.
Heat the oil in a second skillet and fry the tortillas, one by one, briefly on each side. Drain well and keep warm.
One by one, dip the tortillas into the sauce. Fill each one with some of the chicken, then roll and place side by side in the warmed dish. Dilute the rest of the sauce, if necessary, and pour it over the enchiladas. Top lavishly with the onion, cheese, and sour cream and serve immediately.
ENCHILADAS VERDES CON CARNITAS Green Enchiladas with Carnitas
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 6
These were originally called taquitos but were prepared like enchiladas. This recipe makes a rich, but very satisfying, main course.
3 POUNDS (1.35 KG) COUNTRY-STYLE SPARERIBS
2 GARLIC CLOVES, CRUSHED
SALT TO TASTE
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
⅓ CUP (85 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1 CUP (250 ML) COOKED TOMATE VERDE, DRAINED
2 LARGE ROMAINE LETTUCE LEAVES
2 SPRIGS EPAZOTE
2 GARLIC CLOVES
SALT TO TASTE
¼ CUP (65 ML) BROTH OR WATER
2 POBLANO CHILES, CHARRED, PEELED, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
6 SPRIGS CILANTRO
3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
5 LARGE EGGS
SALT TO TASTE
¼ MEDIUM WHITE ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
6 OUNCES (180 G) TOMATOES, FINELY CHOPPED (ABOUT 1 CUP/250 ML)
4 SERRANO CHILES, FINELY CHOPPED
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS
2 CUPS (500 ML) FINELY SHREDDED LETTUCE
6 LARGE RADISH FLOWERS
Put the meat into a wide pan just large enough to accommodate it in no more than two layers. Barely cover the meat with water (see note), add the garlic and salt, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and let the meat cook until it is tender, the water evaporates, and the fat is rendered out. Let the meat fry in its fat, turning it from time to time until well browned—about 1 hour. Set aside and keep warm.
Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the onion until translucent.
Blend the remaining ingredients for the sauce until smooth. Add to the onion in the pan and fry over fairly high heat, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan until it has reduced a little and is well seasoned—about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Heat the oil in a second skillet.
Meanwhile, beat the eggs together well, then stir in the salt, onion, tomatoes, and chiles. Pour into the hot oil and scramble them over very low heat; they should be just set and tender. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the tortillas, one by one, lightly on both sides. Drain and keep warm.
Dip the tortillas into the green sauce, fill each one with some of the egg mixture, then roll up and place them on the serving dish. Dilute the remaining sauce, if necessary, and pour over the enchiladas. Place the pork, lettuce, and radish flowers around the dish, and serve immediately.
NOTE: The sauce can, of course, be done ahead of time. The pork could be done about 1 hour ahead, but would have to be kept tightly covered and heated through gently.
It is better to put less water with the meat than too much; you can always add some if the water has evaporated and the meat is still not tender enough. If you put in too much, then the meat will fall apart by the time the frying stage is reached.
ENCHILADAS VERDES VERACRUZANAS Green Enchiladas from Veracruz
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 ENCHILADAS
1 CUP (250 ML) COOKED TOMATE VERDE, DRAINED
½ CUP (125 ML) COOKING LIQUID FROM THE TOMATOES
4 POBLANO CHILES, CHARRED, PEELED, AND CLEANED
½ CUP (125 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
SALT TO TASTE
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
½ CUP (125 ML) SOUR CREAM, COMMERCIAL OR HOMEMADE
12 FRESHLY MADE TORTILLAS
2 CUPS (500 ML) GUACAMOLE
¼ CUP (65 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED FLAT-LEAF PARSLEY
3 OUNCES (85 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT ½ CUP/125 ML)
Blend the tomate verde with the cooking liquid, chilies, onion, and salt until smooth.
Heat the oil in a skillet and cook the sauce over fairly high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan from time to time to avoid sticking. Remove from the heat and add the sour cream, then set the sauce over a very low heat just to heat it through. Set aside and keep warm.
If the tortillas are not freshly made and still warm, heat them briefly in a steamer. Dip them, one by one, into the sauce, put about 1½ tablespoons of the guacamole across the face of each, roll up loosely, and place side by side in the serving dish. Dilute the remaining sauce with a little water or milk and pour over the enchiladas. Sprinkle with the parsley and cheese and serve immediately.
NOTE: Because of the guacamole, this is obviously a dish that will not hold, so it must be served as soon as it is assembled. The sauce can be made well ahead, but for best results the guacamole, as always, should be made at the last moment.
ENCHILADAS VERDES Green Enchiladas
MAKES 12 ENCHILADAS
1 CUP (250 ML) COOKED TOMATE VERDE, DRAINED
3 POBLANO CHILES, CHARRED, PEELED, AND CLEANED
2 SPRIGS CILANTRO, THICK STEMS REMOVED
½ CUP (125 ML) TOASTED (SHELLED), UNSALTED PEANUTS, CRUSHED
SALT TO TASTE
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
⅓ CUP (85 ML) PLUS ½ CUP (125 ML) CHICKEN BROTH
12 FRESHLY MADE TORTILLAS
1½ TO 2 CUPS (375 TO 500 ML) SHREDDED, COOKED CHICKEN
2 POBLANO CHILES, PREPARED IN RAJAS AND FRIED WITH A LITTLE ONION
⅓ CUP (85 ML) CRUMBLED QUESO FRESCO (ABOUT 2 OUNCES/60 G)
⅔ CUP (165 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
½ CUP (125 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
Blend the tomate verde with the rest of the sauce ingredients, except the oil and ½ cup (125 ml) chicken broth, until smooth.
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the sauce over fairly high heat for 5 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan from time to time to avoid sticking. Add the remaining ½ cup (125 ml) broth and bring to a boil, then remove from the heat and keep warm.
If the tortillas are not freshly made and still warm, heat them briefly in a steamer. Dip them, one by one, into the sauce, fill each one with a little of the chicken and a few rajas, roll loosely, and set side by side in the serving dish. Reheat the remaining sauce, diluting it if necessary with a little broth or water. Pour it over the enchiladas and top with the cheese, onion, and sour cream and serve.
CHILAQUILES
The name chilaquiles, according to the Diccionario de Mejicanismos, derives from the Náhuatl words chilli and quilitl, the latter meaning an edible wild green. We now know it as a dish of stale tortillas fried and then immersed in a chile sauce topped with shredded chicken or cheese and cream, and so on. I know this sounds very dull, but—when well made—they are a most delicious Mexican breakfast food that can fast become addictive. Here is just a sampling of recipes.
CHILAQUILES VERDES TAMPIQUEÑOS Green Chilaquiles
INSPIRED BY A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 6
8 OUNCES (225 G) TOMATE VERDE, COOKED AND DRAINED (ABOUT 1 CUP/250 ML;)
3 POBLANO CHILES, CHARRED, PEELED, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
2 SPRIGS EPAZOTE
3 SPRIGS CILANTRO
⅓ MEDIUM WHITE ONION, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
SALT TO TASTE
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
1 CUP (250 ML) CHICKEN BROTH
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS, EACH CUT INTO 6 TRIANGULAR PIECES AND LEFT TO DRY
4 OUNCES (115 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT ⅔ CUP/165 ML)
½ CUP (125 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
2 HARD-COOKED EGGS, SLICED
6 LARGE RADISHES, THINLY SLICED
2 TABLESPOONS ROUGHLY CHOPPED CILANTRO
Blend the tomate verde with the chiles, epazote, cilantro, onion, and salt until smooth.
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the sauce over medium heat, stirring from time to time to avoid sticking, for 5 minutes. Add the broth and continue cooking for 1 minute more, then remove from the heat and set aside.
In a second skillet, heat the oil and fry the tortilla pieces, about one third at a time so they will be evenly cooked, until they just begin to stiffen but do not brown. Drain well.
Return the sauce to the heat and bring to a boil; stir in the tortilla pieces and cook them over medium heat, scraping the bottom of the pan almost constantly, until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the tortillas are just softening—5 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle the cheese, onion, eggs, radishes, and cilantro over the top and serve immediately.
CHILAQUILES DE AGUASCALIENTES
INSPIRED BY A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 4
The chipotles lend a pungent and smoky flavor to the sauce here. Like many other chilaquile dishes, this would be good served with eggs for brunch, or leaving out the chorizo, with plain roasted chicken and a green salad.
4 CANNED CHIPOTLE CHILES EN ADOBO
2 SPRIGS CILANTRO
¼ CUP (65 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1½ TABLESPOONS SESAME SEEDS, TOASTED AND CRUSHED
⅛ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO
⅔ CUP (165 ML) COOKED AND DRAINED TOMATE VERDE
2 GARLIC CLOVES, CRUSHED
SALT TO TASTE
2 PLUM TOMATOES (ABOUT 6 OUNCES/180 G), BROILED
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 STALE TORTILLAS, EACH CUT INTO 6 TRIANGULAR PIECES
3 CHORIZOS (ABOUT 8 OUNCES/225 G), SKINNED, CRUMBLED, AND FRIED
8 OUNCES (225 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT 1⅓ CUPS/335 ML)
¾ CUP (190 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION
1 TABLESPOON ROUGHLY CHOPPED CILANTRO (OPTIONAL)
In a blender, blend all the sauce ingredients except the oil until smooth.
Heat the oil in a skillet and cook the sauce over a fairly high heat, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan for about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. Preheat the oven to 350° F (180° C).
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry the tortilla pieces, about one third at a time so they are evenly cooked, until they just begin to stiffen but do not brown. Drain well.
Put one third of the tortillas at the bottom of the dish, then add half the chorizos and cheese and ⅓ cup (85 ml) of the sauce. Repeat the layers and top off with the rest of the tortillas and sauce. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until it is well heated through and the tortillas are just soft. Sprinkle with the onion and cilantro and serve immediately.
CHILAQUILES VERACRUZANOS
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 4
This is one of the most delicious versions of chilaquiles. Everything can, of course, be prepared ahead of time and the sauce reheated and cooked with tortilla pieces at the last moment. With a plain green salad it makes a most satisfying meal.
1 WHOLE CHICKEN BREAST, OR 2 LARGE LEGS, IF PREFERRED
SALT TO TASTE
1 LARGE GARLIC CLOVE
¼ CUP (65 ML) ROUGHLY SLICED WHITE ONION
2 SPRIGS CILANTRO
2 SPRIGS FRESH MINT, OR 1 SCANT TABLESPOON DRIED
2 CUPS (500 ML) WATER
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
1 ANCHO CHILE, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
8 OUNCES (225 G) ROUGHLY CHOPPED TOMATOES (ABOUT 1½ CUPS/375 ML)
1 LARGE GARLIC CLOVE
SALT TO TASTE
¼ CUP (65 ML) WATER
1 CUP (250 ML) CHICKEN BROTH
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 5-INCH (12.5-CM) TORTILLAS, EACH CUT INTO 6 PIECES AND DRIED
1 CUP (250 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
1 SMALL AVOCADO, PEELED, CUT INTO SMALL SQUARES, AND DRESSED WITH A SIMPLE VINAIGRETTE
1 CUP (250 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION
3 OUNCES (85 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT ⅓ CUP/85 ML)
Put the chicken, salt, garlic, onion, cilantro, and mint with the water into a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then lower the heat and simmer until the chicken is just tender—about 20 minutes for breast, 25 or more for legs. Allow the chicken to cool off in the broth. When the meat is cool enough to handle, remove from bones and shred. Strain and reserve the broth.
Heat the oil in a skillet. Fry the chile for about 1 minute on each side, flattening it down in the pan with a spatula. Remove the chile, cover with hot water, and leave to soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Leave the oil in the pan.
Transfer the drained chile to a blender jar, add the rest of the sauce ingredients except the broth, and blend until smooth.
Reheat the oil and fry the sauce over fairly high heat for about 3 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan to avoid sticking. Add the broth and cook for 1 minute more. Adjust the seasoning, remove from the heat, and set aside.
In a separate skillet, heat the oil and fry the tortilla pieces, about one third at a time so they cook evenly, until they just begin to stiffen but do not brown. Drain well.
Return the sauce to the heat. As it begins to boil, stir in the tortillas and cook over medium heat for 5 to 8 minutes, or until most of the sauce has been absorbed and the tortilla pieces are just beginning to soften. Stir almost constantly or the sauce and tortillas will stick and burn.
Put the chilaquiles into the dish, then top with the sour cream, chicken, avocado, onion, and cheese. Serve immediately.
CHILAQUILES DE GUANAJUATO
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 4
This is a strong, picante dish with a great flavor. Try serving this dish with fried eggs on top for brunch; it is an almost surefire way to kill a hangover. It is also very good served with sour cream on top, with scrambled eggs, or with plain roasted chicken.
6 GUAJILLO CHILES, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED, LIGHTLY TOASTED AND SOAKED
12 OUNCES (340 G) TOMATE VERDE, COOKED AND PARTIALLY DRAINED (ABOUT 1½ CUPS/375 ML;)
SALT TO TASTE
¼ CUP (65 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
2 GARLIC CLOVES, CRUSHED
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 STALE TORTILLAS, EACH CUT INTO 6 TRIANGULAR PIECES
6 OUNCES (180 G) GRATED CHIHUAHUA CHEESE OR MUENSTER (ABOUT 1¼ CUPS/315 ML)
½ CUP (125 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
Put the chiles into a blender jar. Add the rest of the sauce ingredients except the oil and blend until quite smooth.
Heat the oil in a skillet, add the sauce, and fry over medium heat for about 5 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan from time to time. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry the tortillas, about one third at a time so they are cooked evenly, until they just begin to stiffen but do not brown. Drain well.
Preheat the broiler or oven.
Heat the sauce, stir in the tortilla pieces, and cook over medium heat, stirring from time to time to avoid sticking, for about 5 minutes, or until they are just beginning to soften and some of the sauce has been absorbed. (Take care, as the sauce sticks and burns easily.) Transfer the chilaquiles to the serving dish. Cover with the cheese, then run the dish under a hot broiler or into the oven until the cheese just begins to melt. Top with the onion and serve immediately.
BUDÍNES OR SOPAS SECAS DE TORTILLAS 
LAYERED TORTILLA CASSEROLES
Layered tortilla casseroles are sometimes served as a sopa seca, literally dry soup, as the pasta course would be in Italy. They make an excellent lunch dish with a salad. Although they tend to be rather heavy, and slightly fattening, they are delicious when made with good quality tortillas that do not disintegrate—as do those made of maseca or masa harina. Here are just a few examples, but from here you can elaborate and invent.
BUDÍN AZTECA Moctezuma Pie
SERVES 6
This is a delicious calorie-laden dish and a great favorite when I first came to Mexico. There are many variations depending on what you have on hand.
3 CUPS (750 ML) COOKED TOMATE VERDE (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS/680 G), DRAINED, RESERVING ½ CUP (125 ML) OF THE LIQUID
3 SERRANO CHILES, COOKED WITH THE TOMATE VERDE
2 SMALL GARLIC CLOVES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
7 POBLANO CHILES, PREPARED IN RAJAS
3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
⅓ CUP (85 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION
SALT TO TASTE
⅓ CUP (85 ML) VEGETABLE OIL
18 FRESHLY MADE TORTILLAS, ABOUT 5 INCHES (13 CM) ACROSS, CUT INTO HALVES
2 CUPS (500 ML) SHREDDED, POACHED CHICKEN, WELL SALTED
1½ CUPS (375 ML) THICK SOUR CREAM
1¾ CUPS (440 ML) GRATED CHIHUAHUA CHEESE OR CHEDDAR (ABOUT 8 OUNCES/225 G)
Have ready an ovenproof dish about 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter and 4 inches (10 cm) deep.
Preheat the oven to 350° F (180° C).
In a blender, blend the tomate verde with the ½ cup (125 ml) reserved liquid and the chiles, garlic, and onion to a smooth sauce.
Heat the oil in a skillet, add the sauce, and cook over high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring from time to time to avoid sticking, by which time it will have thickened a little and will be well seasoned. Set aside.
Cut the chiles into narrow strips and set aside.
Heat the 3 tablespoons of oil in another skillet, then add the onion and fry until translucent—about 1 minute. Add the chile strips and salt, cover the pan, and cook over gentle heat until the chiles are tender but not too soft—about 5 minutes.
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry each tortilla for a few seconds—they should not get crisp or hard. Blot off excess oil on the next unfried tortilla.
Spread one third of the tortillas over the bottom of the dish. Then spread, in layers on top of them, half the chicken, half the rajas, and a third each of the sauce, sour cream, and cheese. Repeat the layers and finish off with a layer of tortillas, sprinkled with the rest of the sauce, sour cream, and cheese.
Bake the budín for about 25 minutes, or until it is well heated through and the cheese has melted.
NOTE: The dish could be assembled about 2 hours ahead of time, but it would be best not to add all the sauce. Just use half of it between the layers, and then, at the last moment before putting the dish into the oven, pour in the sauce around the edges. Be careful not to cook it for too long or the tortillas will disintegrate—they should be soft but keep their shape.
This pie does not freeze successfully.
CASEROLA DE TORTILLAS EN CHILES GUAJILLO A Casserole of Tortillas in Chile Sauce
SEÑORA GODILEVA
SERVES 6
12 GUAJILLO CHILES, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
½ CUP (125 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
2 GARLIC CLOVES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
⅛ TEASPOON CUMIN SEEDS, CRUSHED
1 CUP (250 ML) CHICKEN BROTH OR WATER
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
SALT TO TASTE
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
18 TORTILLAS, CUT INTO STRIPS OR TRIANGLES AND DRIED
8 OUNCES (225 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED, OR SUBSTITUTE MILD CHEDDAR, GRATED (ABOUT 1⅓ CUPS/335 ML), OR MUENSTER (1¼ CUPS/315 ML)
2 CUPS (500 ML) CHICKEN BROTH, APPROXIMATELY
2 LARGE SPRIGS EPAZOTE
1 CUP (250 ML) PREPARED THIN SOUR CREAM
2 CHORIZOS (ABOUT 5 OUNCES/140 G), CRUMBLED AND FRIED
¾ CUP (185 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION RINGS
2 LIMES, CUT INTO WEDGES
Have ready a flameproof dish about 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter and 4 inches (10 cm) deep.
Heat the griddle and toast the chiles lightly on both sides. Be careful—they burn very quickly.
Cover the chiles with hot water and leave them to soak for about 10 minutes, then transfer with a slotted spoon to a blender jar. Add the onion, garlic, and cumin seeds and blend to a smooth sauce with ½ cup (125 ml) of the broth.
Heat the oil in a pan and add the sauce through a fine strainer, pressing down to extract as much of the substance and juice as possible.
Add the other ½ cup broth and let the sauce cook over high heat for a few minutes longer. Add salt to taste. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the tortilla strips until they are a pale gold, but not too crisp. Remove and drain on paper toweling.
Cover the bottom of the dish with one third of the tortilla pieces, then one third of the cheese and one third of the sauce. Repeat the layers twice more.
Add the 2 cups broth and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and continue cooking the chilaquiles at a brisk simmer, until most of the broth has been absorbed—about 15 minutes. Add the epazote a minute or so before the chilaquiles have finished cooking.
Pour the sour cream around the edge of the dish, then top with the chorizos and the onion rings. Serve in small deep bowls with lime wedges on the side.
CASEROLA DE TORTILLAS SENCILLA Simple Tortilla Casserole
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 4
This casserole of tortillas in tomato sauce is often served as a “dry soup,” which can be served as you would a pasta course, alone or with simply cooked meats, fish, or chicken.
1 POUND (450 G) TOMATOES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED (ABOUT 3 CUPS/750 ML)
¼ CUP (65 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1 LARGE GARLIC CLOVE, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
SALT TO TASTE
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS CUT INTO STRIPS AND DRIED
4 OUNCES (115 G) CHIHUAHUA CHEESE (ABOUT ¾ CUP/185 ML), OR QUESO FRESCO (ABOUT ⅔ CUP/165 ML)
⅓ CUP (85 ML) BROTH OR HOT WATER
2 TABLESPOONS FINELY CHOPPED PARSLEY (OPTIONAL)
1 CUP (250 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
Have ready a lightly greased ovenproof dish about 9 by 6 by 3 inches (23 by 15 by 8 cm).
Blend the tomatoes with the rest of the sauce ingredients except the oil until smooth.
Heat the oil in a medium skillet and fry the sauce over a fairly high heat to reduce and season—about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set in a warm place.
Heat the oil in a second skillet and fry the tortilla pieces, about one third at a time so they will cook evenly, until they are just stiffening but not brown. Drain well.
Preheat the oven to 375° F (190° C).
Put one third of the tortilla pieces at the bottom of the dish; sprinkle with ⅓ cup (85 ml) of the sauce and one third of the cheese. Repeat with half of the remaining tortillas, sauce, and cheese, then top off with the remaining ingredients. Moisten the top layer with the broth. Set in the top level of the oven, uncovered, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until heated through and bubbling. (The liquid should have been absorbed and the tortilla pieces just soft, not falling apart, at the bottom and still a little chewy on top. Slight adjustments may be needed to suit the tortillas that are available to you.)
Serve, sprinkled with parsley, if you like it. Pass the sour cream separately.
CASEROLA DE TORTILLAS Y LEGUMBRES Tortilla and Vegetable Casserole
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 4
The original recipe included chorizo, but it rather overpowers the taste of the vegetables and I prefer it without. This casserole can be served as a separate course, alone or with plainly broiled meats, fish, or roast chicken.
Be sure not to overcook the vegetables—they should be just tender, almost crisp, so that they do not become mushy during baking.
1½ TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
⅓ CUP (85 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION
12 OUNCES (340 G) TOMATOES, BROILED
SALT TO TASTE
⅔ CUP (165 ML) CHICKEN BROTH OR VEGETABLE BROTH FOR VEGETARIANS
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 5- TO 6-INCH (12.5- TO 15-CM) TORTILLAS, CUT INTO STRIPS AND DRIED
1 CUP (250 ML) COOKED FRESH PEAS, OR DEFROSTED UNCOOKED
1 CUP (250 ML) COOKED, DICED CARROT
1 CUP (250 ML) COOKED GREEN BEANS, CUT INTO SMALL PIECES
4 OUNCES (115 G) CHIHUAHUA CHEESE OR SUBSTITUTE GRATED (ABOUT 1 HEAPED CUP/265 ML)
Have ready a lightly greased ovenproof dish about 9 by 6 by 3 inches (23 by 15 by 8 cm).
Heat the oil in a large skillet and cook the onion gently until soft, about 3 minutes; do not brown.
Blend the unskinned tomatoes briefly, then add, with the salt, to the onion in the pan. Cook over fairly high heat, stirring from time to time, until it reduces—about 3 minutes. Add the broth or vegetable water and cook for a minute or so longer, then set aside.
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry the tortilla pieces, about one third at a time so they fry evenly, until just beginning to stiffen, not brown. Drain well.
Preheat the oven to 375° F (190° C).
Spread half of the tortilla pieces over the bottom of the dish. Sprinkle with about one third of the sauce, then cover with the vegetables, the rest of the tortillas, and finally the rest of the sauce. Cover the dish with foil and bake for about 20 minutes, or until the bottom tortillas are soft but not falling apart and the top ones are still slightly chewy. Remove the foil.
Sprinkle the cheese over the top of the casserole and return the dish to the oven just until the cheese melts. Once this casserole is assembled it should be cooked and served, or it will become rather soggy.
BUDÍN DE HONGOS Mushroom Pudding
INSPIRED BY A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 4
The original recipe calls for cuitlacoche, the delicious fungus that grows on corn. But mushrooms are cheap and plentiful, and this recipe provides a delicious variation on the usual ways of preparing them. Any type of mushrooms may be used.
You may use more or fewer chiles, depending on your taste.
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
½ CUP (125 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND FINELY CHOPPED
1 POUND (450 G) MUSHROOMS, RINSED AND THINLY SLICED, OR ROUGHLY CHOPPED CUITLACOCHE
3 SERRANO CHILES, FINELY CHOPPED
SALT TO TASTE
1 LARGE SPRIG EPAZOTE OR PARSLEY, LEAVES ONLY, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 POUND (450 G) TOMATOES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED (ABOUT 3 CUPS/750 ML)
¼ CUP (65 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1 GARLIC CLOVE, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
SALT TO TASTE
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 5- TO 6-INCH (12.5- TO 15-CM) TORTILLAS, CUT INTO FOUR AND DRIED
4 OUNCES (115 G) CHIHUAHUA CHEESE (SEE SUBSTITUTES), GRATED (ABOUT 1 HEAPED CUP/265 ML)
Have ready a lightly greased ovenproof dish about 9 by 6 by 3 inches (23 by 15 by 8 cm).
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the onion and garlic for 2 minutes, stirring from time to time to avoid sticking—they should not brown. Add the mushrooms, chiles, and salt, then cover the pan and cook over medium heat until the mushrooms are tender—about 20 minutes; they should be juicy. Add the epazote and cook for 1 minute more. Set aside in a bowl.
Blend the tomatoes, onion, and garlic together until smooth.
Heat the oil in a skillet and cook the sauce over fairly high heat, stirring it from time to time, for about 4 minutes to reduce. Add salt.
Heat the oil in a second skillet and fry the tortillas, about one third at a time so they fry evenly, until they are just becoming stiff but do not harden and brown. Drain on paper toweling.
Preheat the oven to 375° F (190° C).
Put one third of the tortilla pieces at the bottom of the dish, then add half of the mushroom mixture, one third of the cheese, and ⅓ cup (85 ml) sauce. Repeat the layers and top off with the rest of the cheese, sauce, and any mushroom juice left in the pan. Bake until well heated through and bubbling—20 to 25 minutes.
TACOS
To many people outside Mexico, a taco is a tortilla bent in half to form a deep U shape, fried crisp, and stuffed with ground beef, iceberg lettuce, sliced tomato, and grated cheese. Throughout Mexico, however, the simple taco consumed by millions daily is a fresh, hot corn tortilla—sometimes two if small—rolled around one of a hundred or so fillings and liberally doused with one of a hundred or so sauces. The variety is endless.
There are, of course, tacos that are fried fairly crisp: no deben de tronar—they shouldn’t crackle as you bite them—is one admonition, no doubt from a dyed-in-the-wool aficionado of great experience. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule because their counterparts in Jalisco, la flauta, and in Yucatán, el cotzito, are tightly rolled and crisp to a crackling point.
Apart from the ordinary soft taco and the fried, there is the sudado, which means literally (and unattractively) “sweated,” or steamed, and the taco de canasta, basket taco, which is almost the same because as the filled soft tacos are placed one on top of the other in layers in a cloth-lined basket, it is virtually the same as steaming.
Although you can use whatever you have on hand, here are a few ideas for different fillings.
TACOS DE PAPA Potato Tacos
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 TACOS
The original recipe calls for a plain mashed-potato filling. I happen to like potato skins and the texture they give to the filling, and have improvised this, keeping within the Mexican tradition. Surprisingly, the potato and masa go very well together, and make a simple and tasty budget dish.
You could even use some chopped epazote leaves in the filling.
12 OUNCES (340 G) COOKED UNPEELED AND DICED RED BLISS OR OTHER WAXY POTATOES (ABOUT 2¼ CUPS/563 ML)
½ MEDIUM WHITE ONION
4 OUNCES (115 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT ¾ CUP/190 ML)
SALT TO TASTE
12 5- TO 6-INCH (12.5- TO 15-CM) TORTILLAS
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
⅔ CUP (165 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
1 CUP (250 ML) SALSA RANCHERA, OMITTING THE ONION, WARMED
1½ CUPS (375 ML) SHREDDED LETTUCE
JALAPEÑO CHILES EN ESCABECHE
Mix the potatoes with the rest of the filling ingredients.
Fill each tortilla with about 2 tablespoons of the mixture and secure with toothpicks.
Heat the oil and fry until the tortilla is just crisp on the outside. Drain well.
Serve immediately, topped with the sour cream, warm sauce, and lettuce. Serve the chiles separately.
TAQUITOS Little Tacos
MAKES 12 TACOS
I came upon this simple suggestion for tacos when I had a refrigerator full of Mexican bits and pieces. There was half a big avocado, a little package of frozen refried beans that kept falling out with the ice trays, and a half-finished can of chipotle chiles. You don’t have to have these ingredients, but it does make you stop and realize that practically all leftovers can be made up into savory and simple tacos.
12 5- TO 6-INCH (12.5- TO 15-CM) TORTILLAS
1 SMALL AVOCADO, CUT INTO 12 SLICES
4 OUNCES (115 G) CHIHUAHUA CHEESE OR MUENSTER (ABOUT 1 CUP/250 ML)
4 TO 6 CANNED CHIPOTLE CHILES, EACH CUT INTO 3 PIECES
¾ CUP (185 ML) FRIJOLES REFRITOS
12 THIN SLICES WHITE ONION
SALT TO TASTE
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
6 ROMAINE LETTUCE LEAVES, SHREDDED
6 LARGE RADISHES, THINLY SLICED
APPROXIMATELY 3 TABLESPOONS ROUGHLY CHOPPED CILANTRO SPRIGS
On each tortilla put a slice of avocado, some strips of cheese, a piece or two of chile, a tablespoon of beans, and a thin slice of onion. Sprinkle well with salt, roll the tortillas up, and secure with a toothpick.
Fry until golden but not too crisp. Drain on paper toweling and serve topped with the lettuce, radishes, and chopped cilantro.
TAQUITOS DE NATA “Sour Cream” Tacos
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 TACOS
Taquitos de nata is the original name for this dish—referring to when the sauce was thickened with nata, which is the thick layer formed on good rich, unhomogenized milk when scalded.
The original recipe did not call for the chile or the onion topping, but they are authentic touches that I think improve this very simple and delicious dish.
The tacos are not completely smothered by the sauce, so the ends are slightly crisp.
12 OUNCES (340 G) TOMATOES, BROILED
2 TABLESPOONS FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1 GARLIC CLOVE
SALT TO TASTE
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
1½ TO 2 CUPS (375 TO 500 ML) COOKED, SHREDDED, AND WELL-SALTED CHICKEN
1 FRESH JALAPEÑO CHILE, CUT INTO THIN STRIPS
1 TABLESPOON VEGETABLE OIL
½ CUP (125 ML) NATA SOUR CREAM, COMMERCIAL OR HOMEMADE, AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS
⅔ CUP (165 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
Blend the tomatoes with the onion, garlic, and salt and divide into two parts. Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the shredded chicken and chile strips for a minute or so over fairly hot heat, stirring from time to time to avoid sticking, until they just begin to brown. Add half of the tomato puree and continue cooking and stirring until almost dry. Set aside and keep warm.
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry the remainder of the puree over fairly high heat for about 3 minutes, stirring from time to time. Remove from the heat and stir in the sour cream. Set aside and keep warm.
Heat the oil in a skillet and lightly fry the tortillas, a few at a time, on both sides.
Preheat the oven to 375° F (190° C).
Put a little of the filling on each of the tortillas, roll up, and place side by side on the serving dish. Pour the sauce down the center of the tacos and bake for 10 minutes. Sprinkle with the onion and serve immediately.
NOTE: The tacos should not be left for a longer period in the oven or they will become tough and the sauce will dry out. You could get the filling and sauce made ahead and then assemble and bake at the last moment.
TACOS DE RAJAS DE ZACATECAS Tacos of Chile Strips
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 TACOS
Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the chile strips and cook over low heat for about 3 minutes.
Blend the tomatoes with the onion until smooth, then add the puree to the chiles in the pan. Season with salt and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan from time to time.
Beat the eggs lightly and stir them into the mixture. Continue stirring until they are just set, then remove from the heat and keep warm.
Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the tortillas on both sides. Fry a little more than you would for enchiladas, but not allowing them to get so crisp that you cannot easily fold them over. Drain well, then fill each one with a little of the chile-egg filling. Double the tortillas over and set on the serving dish.
Pour the sour cream over the tacos and serve immediately.
TACOS DE RES Beef Tacos
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 TACOS
This is a good way of using up leftover roast beef. Atypically, I like to add a strip or two of fresh jalapeño chiles to the meat in the tacos.
1½ TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
½ CUP (125 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION
1 POUND (450 G) COOKED AND SHREDDED BEEF (ABOUT 2 CUPS/500 ML;)
12 STRIPS OF JALAPEÑO CHILES, WITH SEEDS
12 TORTILLAS
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
1 CUP (250 ML) SALSA RANCHERA
¾ CUP (185 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
3 OUNCES (85 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT ½ CUP/125 ML)
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the onion gently until translucent. Add the meat and chiles and cook over medium heat, stirring from time to time, until it is lightly browned. Set aside to cool a little.
Fill the tortillas and fry until slightly crisp on the outside. Drain, then serve immediately topped with the sauce, sour cream, and cheese.
TACOS DE HONGOS Mushroom Tacos
MAKES 12 TACOS
The original recipe called for cuitlacoche but any wild or cultivated mushroom could be used.
3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
¼ CUP (65 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
2 GARLIC CLOVES, PEELED AND CHOPPED
12 OUNCES (340 G) TOMATOES, FINELY CHOPPED (ABOUT 2 CUPS/500 ML)
3 SERRANO CHILES, CUT INTO STRIPS, WITH SEEDS AND VEINS
1 POUND (450 G) MUSHROOMS OR CUITLACOCHE, ROUGHLY CHOPPED (ABOUT 4 CUPS/1 L)
SALT TO TASTE
2 SPRIGS EPAZOTE OR PARSLEY, FINELY CHOPPED
12 TORTILLAS
VEGETABLE OIL OR MELTED LARD FOR FRYING
PREPARED SOUR CREAM (OPTIONAL)
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the onion and garlic gently for a few seconds; do not let them brown.
Add the tomatoes, chiles, mushrooms, and salt. Cook over medium heat, uncovered, stirring the mixture from time to time until the mushrooms are soft and the juices reduced—about 15 minutes.
Add the epazote and cook for 1 minute more. Set aside to cool a little.
Put a little of the mixture onto each of the tortillas, roll them up, and secure with a toothpick. Heat the fat and fry the tacos until they are just crisping but not hard. Drain them well and serve them immediately, either plain or with a little prepared sour cream.
PUERCO EN SALSA DE JITOMATE Shredded Pork and Tomato Filling for Tacos
MAKES ENOUGH FILLING FOR 12 TO 15 SMALL TACOS, 1½ CUPS (375 ML)
12 OUNCES (340 G) TOMATOES, BROILED
1 GARLIC CLOVE, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
2 TABLESPOONS LARD OR VEGETABLE OIL
⅓ CUP (85 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
2 FRESH JALAPEÑO CHILES, WITH SEEDS, THINLY CUT INTO NARROW STRIPS
SALT TO TASTE
1⅓ CUPS (335 ML) COOKED AND SHREDDED PORK (ABOUT 12 OUNCES/340 G)
Blend the tomatoes with the garlic until almost smooth. Set aside.
Heat the lard in a large skillet and cook the onion and chiles, without browning, until translucent. Add the tomato mixture and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes; add salt.
Add the meat and continue cooking the mixture for 8 minutes, or until it is all well seasoned and the sauce moist but not juicy.
TOSTADAS
A tortilla fried flat until crisp is a tostada, which acts as an edible plate for a variety of toppings to make a luscious, if hazardous, snack that tends to break and scatter at a bite (see recipes).
In Mérida and Queretero I have eaten a tostada that had a small amount of fat mixed in the masa and had been toasted and not fried.
Of course you can always let the tortillas dry out, then brush them with oil and bake them until crisp.
TOSTADAS DE MANITAS DE PUERCO Pigs’ Feet Tostadas
INSPIRED BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 TOSTADAS
Any jellied pigs’ feet left over can be used as it is for an appetizer, served with lime quarters and plenty of chopped parsley.
The tendency generally is to overcook pigs’ feet, so that the flesh becomes too soft and insipid. They vary considerably in size, so cooking time may have to be adjusted. Try to choose ones that are between 12 ounces (340 g) and 1 pound (450 g) each. I often err on the time and undercook them in an effort to get the right consistency—forgetting that, soft as they may be when hot, they stiffen up considerably as they cool down.
2 FRESH PIGS’ FEET, SPLIT IN HALF
1 SMALL MEXICAN BAY LEAF
3 SPRIGS FRESH THYME OR ⅛ TEASPOON DRIED
¼ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO
2 GARLIC CLOVES
⅓ CUP (85 ML) THICKLY SLICED WHITE ONION
6 PEPPERCORNS
SALT TO TASTE
FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS
THE PIGS’ FEET JELLY
1½ CUPS (375 ML) FINELY SHREDDED AND DRESSED LETTUCE
1 SMALL AVOCADO, SLICED
1½ CUPS (375 ML) SALSA RANCHERA, OMITTING THE ONION
3 TABLESPOONS FINELY GRATED QUESO AÑEJO
1 CUP (250 ML) THINLY SLICED PURPLE ONION
Put all the ingredients for the pigs’ feet into a large saucepan and cover with cold water by ½ inch (1.5 cm). Bring slowly to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for about 2½ hours. (The meat should be tender but not too soft.) Set aside to cool in the broth.
When the pigs’ feet are cool enough to handle, remove all the bones carefully and chop the meat, gelatinous gristle, and rind together into small pieces and place in a shallow dish and season with salt and pepper (bearing in mind that cooked foods served cold need to be more highly seasoned). Strain the broth and pour 1⅓ cups (335 ml) of it over the meat. Set the dish in the refrigerator until firmly set—about 1 hour.
Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the tortillas until crisp. Drain well.
Cut the pigs’ feet jelly into small squares and put 2 to 3 heaped tablespoons onto each tostada. Cover with lettuce, some slices of avocado, sauce, cheese, and last of all the onion rings.
NOTE: The pigs’ feet can be prepared a day or two ahead.
TOSTADAS DE GUACAMOLE Y CREMA Guacamole And Sour Cream Tostadas
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
MAKES 12 TOSTADAS
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 CORN TORTILLAS
8 OUNCES (225 G) CHIHUAHUA CHEESE (SEE SUBSTITUTES), CUT INTO THIN SLICES
2 CUPS (500 ML) GUACAMOLE
1 CUP (250 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
1½ CUPS (375 ML) FINELY SHREDDED LETTUCE
4 TO 6 JALAPEÑO CHILES EN ESCABECHE, CUT INTO STRIPS
Heat the oil in a skillet and fry the tortillas until crisp. Drain well.
Cover the tortillas with the sliced cheese and melt under a broiler or in the oven. Top each tostada with a large spoonful of the guacamole, a little sour cream, some shredded lettuce, and some chile strips. Serve immediately.
TORTILLAS COMO SANDWICH Tortilla “Sandwich”
MAKES 6 TORTILLA SANDWICHES CENTRAL MEXICO
The Mexicans’ delicious answer to the American ham and cheese sandwich that lends itself to many interpretations.
12 TORTILLAS
6 OUNCES (180 G) COOKED HAM, THINLY SLICED
6 OUNCES (180 G) CHIHUAHUA CHEESE OR CHEDDAR, FINELY SLICED
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
¾ CUP (185 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
¾ CUP (185 ML) SALSA DE TOMATE VERDE, GUACAMOLE, OR SALSA RANCHERA
½ CUP (125 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1½ CUPS (375 ML) FINELY SHREDDED LETTUCE
6 RADISHES, CUT INTO FLOWERS OR SLICED
Lay 6 of the tortillas out flat; spread each one with some of the ham and cheese. Cover each with another tortilla to form a sandwich, then secure each pair of tortillas together with 2 toothpicks, one on each side.
Heat the oil and fry each sandwich on either side until just beginning to get crisp, not hard. Drain well, then top with the sour cream, sauce, and chopped onion. Decorate each plate with the lettuce and radishes, which will serve as a foil for the richness of the tortillas. Serve immediately.
TORTILLAS PILADAS CON GUACAMOLE Y SALSA DE JITOMATE Tortillas Stacked with Guacamole and Tomato Sauce
SERVES 4 TO 6
This was called simply “tortilla soup” in the book (now alas lost) where I found this recipe—what an understatement! It is in fact a delicious fanciful and colorful concoction of fried tortillas stacked with guacamole, sour cream, and cheese and smothered in tomato sauce.
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
5 SCALLIONS, FINELY CHOPPED
1 POUND (450 G) TOMATOES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED (ABOUT 3 CUPS/750 ML)
2 GARLIC CLOVES
SALT TO TASTE
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
12 TORTILLAS, FRESHLY MADE, IF POSSIBLE, AND NOT TOO THIN
1½ CUPS (375 ML) GUACAMOLE
4 OUNCES (115 G) CHIHUAHUA CHEESE OR MILD CHEDDAR CHEESE, GRATED
¾ CUP (185 ML) PREPARED SOUR CREAM
Heat the oil in a large skillet and cook the scallions gently until they are soft but not browned.
Blend the tomatoes with the garlic. Add to the pan with the salt and fry the sauce over fairly high heat, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan almost constantly, until it has reduced and seasoned—about 5 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.
Heat the oil in another skillet and fry the tortillas briefly on both sides. Drain well.
You need to make 3 piles. Dip 3 of the tortillas into the sauce and lay them flat onto the serving dish. Spread them with about 2 tablespoons each of the guacamole, a little cheese, and some sour cream.
Dip 3 more tortillas into the sauce and cover the filling. Repeat with another layer of tortillas on top of the first “sandwich,” then repeat a layer of guacamole, cheese, and sour cream, ending with a layer of the remaining tortillas.
Pour the rest of the sauce over the stacks of tortillas and sprinkle the remaining cheese over the top. Cut into wedges and serve immediately.
NOTE: This is quite obviously a dish that has to be prepared at the very last moment. Only the sauce can be done ahead of time. The minute the guacamole is made, preparations for the rest should start.
INDIOS VESTIDOS “Dressed Indians”
BASED ON A RECIPE BY SEÑORA JOSEFINA VELÁZQUEZ DE LEÓN
SERVES 6
“Dressed Indians” is the whimsical name of this dish, and sometimes it is known as “little Indians.” It’s rather like a simple version of chiles rellenos, only instead of chiles, tortillas are used. They can be stuffed with either shredded meat or cheese.
2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
⅓ CUP (85 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1¼ POUNDS (565 G) TOMATOES, BROILED
2 CANNED CHIPOTLE CHILES EN ADOBO
SALT TO TASTE
1 POUND (450 G) SHREDDED, COOKED PORK (ABOUT 1⅓ CUPS/313 ML), OR 8 OUNCES (225 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT 1⅓ CUPS/335 ML)
12 TORTILLAS, CUT INTO HALVES
ABOUT ½ CUP (125 ML) ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
VEGETABLE OIL FOR FRYING
5 LARGE EGGS, SEPARATED
SALT TO TASTE
1 LARGE AVOCADO, THINLY SLICED
4 TABLESPOONS FINELY GRATED QUESO AÑEJO
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the onion gently until translucent. Blend the unskinned tomatoes with the chiles, then add to the pan, along with the salt. Cook the sauce over fairly high heat for about 3 minutes so that it reduces a little. Season. Remove from the heat and keep warm.
Put a little of the filling onto each piece of tortilla. Fold in half and fasten with a toothpick, then dust lightly with flour.
Heat the oil, about ½ inch (1.5 cm) deep, in a skillet.
Meanwhile, beat the egg whites and salt until stiff but not dry, then add the yolks, one by one, and continue beating until they are well incorporated. Dip the tortilla “packages” into the beaten egg—they should be lightly but well coated—and fry until golden brown. Drain well, then put onto the serving platter, pour the heated sauce over, top with the avocado and cheese, and serve immediately.
note: When the indios have been fried in the batter, they could be held on a baking sheet, with plenty of paper toweling underneath, in a 350° F (180° C) oven for about 2 minutes. The batter will become a little sodden, but then it does under the sauce anyway.
Do not freeze.
TOTOPOS Crisp-Fried Tortilla Pieces
Totopos, squares or strips of crisped corn tortillas, are used as a topping for soups, and even for chilaquiles in Michoacán, or added to scrambled eggs. Cut into larger triangles, they are used as scoops with guacamole or refried beans.
It is preferable to prepare your own totopos, since the commercially packaged ones, known as “fritos” in the United States, are too thin and highly seasoned. First, cut your corn tortillas into the required shapes and spread them onto a rack to dry out overnight—so they will absorb less oil in the frying process. Heat vegetable oil to the depth of about ½ inch (1.25 cm) in a smallish skillet and fry a small quantity of the totopos until crisp and a deep golden-brown in color. Drain well on paper toweling. They are best used immediately, but if you have leftovers, freeze them and reheat in a hot oven.
Corn Tortillas with Wild Greens
