Original Ensalada Alex-César Cardini 
The Original Alex-Caesar Cardini Salad
Chiles en Escabeche Colimenses Pickled Chiles Stuffed with Beans
Chiles de la Sierra “Mountain” Chiles
Ensalada de Chiles Rellenos Stuffed Chile Salad
Ensalada de Nopalitos Salad of Nopal Cactus Pieces
Ensalada de Ejote y Calabacita Green Bean and Zucchini Salad
Those weekly Saturday morning visits to San Juan market in Mexico City in the late fifties were both mouthwatering and time-consuming. There were slim bunches of the most delicate scallions—cebollitas de cambrai; delicate little radishes, crisp and nutty; avocados of all shapes and sizes; watercress, cucumbers, and every type of greens imaginable. But often the freshest and most delicate were to be found not on the stands in the market but spread out in front of the peasant woman sitting on the floor in the entranceway. She would touch your skirt or make a little hissing sound of the word marchanta (“shopper”) to gently attract your attention. She would have neat little bunches of freshly picked herbs, or squash blossoms, or some small, freshly shelled peas or fava beans, and very soon I would be carried away, completely forgetting what I had really come for, and return home laden with two huge baskets overflowing with lovely, delicate, perishable things that two people could never have disposed of before they wilted and lost their bloom.
But it was on Sunday mornings that there was a brisk run on the salads already prepared and displayed on large shallow wheels of trays, of nopalitos or green or fava beans mainly, elaborately topped with tomato and onion rings and sprinkled with chopped cilantro.
A salad is not as indispensable a part of a Mexican meal as, for instance, beans are. But that is not to say that raw vegetables are not eaten much in Mexico. On the contrary, to have antojitos served without a wealth of shredded lettuce, sliced tomatoes, and little radishes either sliced or cut into rose shapes is inconceivable. And then there are the table sauces or relishes, guacamole, salsa Mexicana cruda, and its Yucatecan counterpart xni-pec, eaten in great quantities with tacos or just tortillas. During the summer months the wandering street vendors offer cucumbers, peeled and slashed so that they spread out like a flower, and as they hand you one it is liberally sprinkled with powdered piquín chile, salt, and a squeeze of lime juice. In wintertime their place is taken by the jicama, which is thinly sliced and seasoned in the same way.
In the past ensalada was the name given to practically any accompaniment to the main meat course, and it fascinates me to read in nineteenth-century Mexican cookbooks of salads of raw pineapple and cooking apple liberally doused with sherry; of boiled, acidy prickly pears (xoconostles) cooked with cinnamon and sugar; and a salad for ladies—ensalada de damas—which was considered much more appropriate fare for them instead of the meats offered to men, because “they are not as strong and lead a more sedentary life.” The ladies were to eat an incredible mixture of cooked vegetables—beets, green beans, peas, zucchini squash, cauliflower—chopped up with plantain, pineapple, sweet potato, apples, avocados, olives, and pickled chiles.
It was also suggested that for more elegant occasions salads of plain greens should be presented more colorfully adorned with edible flowers: borage, nasturtiums, mallow, wild chicory, or orange flowers.
Naturally influences from the United States have crept in and even salad bars have begun to appear in some of the popular restaurant chains and hotel restaurants, while more sophisticated salads are now offered in the more fancy restaurants. But in private homes you are much more likely to get a traditional salad of cooked vegetables—zucchini, cauliflower, and green beans—dressed with oil and vinegar and sprinkled with dried oregano and onion rings.
I could never quite take the eye-catching Christmas Eve salad seriously—lettuce, beets, sugarcane, oranges, bananas, sweet limes, jicamas, peanuts, and small hard sugar candies all mixed up. But two that always spring to mind as being just right, different, and very Mexican are the nopal and stuffed chile salads, for which the recipes are given, along with recipes for some cooked vegetable salads and a crisp, refreshing one of jicama.
ALEX CARDINI, SR.
SERVES 2
In the early 1970s one of the best-loved restaurateurs in Mexico, Alex Cardini Sr., died. He had started in the restaurant business in Italy at the age of ten, and by his late teens he had worked in some of the most distinguished restaurants in Europe. As an ace pilot in the Italian air force, he was decorated for his courage and daring during World War I.
In 1926 Alex Sr. joined his brother Caesar in Tijuana, where Caesar had a thriving restaurant business and where he had invented a famous salad dressing. Using this dressing and a unique combination of other ingredients, Alex invented his salad in honor of the pilots of Rockwell Field Air Base in San Diego. First known as Aviator’s Salad, it then became popularly known and copied as Caesar, but I shall call it as it should be called: Alex-Caesar Cardini Salad.
A few months before he died, I had one of those long and wonderful lunches with the Cardini sons and their friends. We talked for hours about the rare and fascinating things in Mexican food, and Alex Sr. prepared his salad for us.
10 ROMAINE LETTUCE LEAVES, APPROXIMATELY
6 HALF-INCH (1.5-CM) ROUNDS OF STALE FRENCH BREAD
¼ CUP (65 ML) OLIVE OIL
3 GARLIC CLOVES
6 ANCHOVY FILLETS
1 LARGE EGG, RAW
1 TABLESPOON FRESH LIME JUICE
1 TEASPOON WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE
¼ CUP (65 ML) FRESHLY GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE
SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER TO TASTE
Wash the lettuce, spin dry, wrap in a dry towel, and set aside in the refrigerator to crisp.
Preheat the oven to 400° F (205° C). Put the bread slices onto an ungreased baking sheet and bake until crisp—20 minutes. Brush with 1½ tablespoons of the oil and return to the oven to brown—about 10 minutes.
Crush together the garlic and the anchovies and gradually add 1 tablespoon of the oil. Spread this mixture onto the bread slices and set aside.
Cover the egg with boiling water and cook for 1 minute; the white should be opaque and just setting.
Put the lettuce leaves into the salad bowl, add the remaining ingredients, and toss with the egg and bread until well incorporated.
SEÑORA ESPERANZA OROZCO DE OLEA
SERVES 6
This is a deliciously different version of stuffed chiles given to me by a distinguished cook from Colima. You should start three days ahead for best results. One chile per serving should be plenty, as it is a very filling salad or first course.
THE CHILES
3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
6 MEDIUM-SIZE POBLANO CHILES
THE PICKLING MIXTURE
5 GARLIC CLOVES, HALVED
1 CUP (250 ML) THINLY SLICED PURPLE ONION
1 MEDIUM CARROT, SCRAPED AND THINLY SLICED
½ CUP (125 ML) WINE VINEGAR
2 TABLESPOONS WATER
1 TEASPOON SALT, OR TO TASTE
THE FILLING
8 OUNCES (225 G) PINTO OR CALIFORNIA PINK BEANS (CANARIOS OR FLOR DE MAYO IN MEXICO), COOKED, WITH THEIR BROTH
12 OUNCES (340 G) CHORIZOS
3 TABLESPOONS FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
ABOUT 6 OUNCES (180 G) TOMATOES, FINELY CHOPPED (ABOUT 1 ROUNDED CUP/265 ML)
3 TABLESPOONS GRATED QUESO RANCHERO SECO OR AÑEJO, OR SARDO OR ROMANO CHEESE
TO SERVE
ROMAINE LETTUCE LEAVES TO LINE THE DISH
6 SLICES QUESO PANELA OR DOMESTIC MUENSTER
Three days ahead, heat the oil in a skillet and fry the chiles over medium heat, turning them from time to time, until they are blistered and well browned, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and let the chiles “sweat” for about 5 minutes in the pan. Remove the chiles from the pan, drain, and set them aside to cool while you prepare the pickling mixture.
In the same oil, fry the garlic gently until lightly browned. Add the other pickling ingredients and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and let the mixture simmer, stirring from time to time, for about 2 minutes. Transfer the contents of the pan to a glass or china bowl.
Remove the skins from the chiles (if you have fried them sufficiently, they should slip off easily). Carefully slit the chiles open and remove the seeds and veins, taking care to keep the top and stem intact. Add the chiles to the ingredients in the bowl and store at the bottom of the refrigerator for 2 or 3 days, turning them over at intervals so they become evenly impregnated with the seasoning.
On the day you plan to serve the chiles, prepare the filling. Blend the beans and their broth (do not overblend, as they must have some texture). Set aside.
Skin and crumble the chorizo, then heat the lard in a skillet and cook the chorizo pieces gently—they will burn easily—until the fat has rendered out, about 5 minutes. Remove the chorizo pieces and set aside.
In the same fat, fry the onion gently, without browning, until translucent. Add the tomatoes and fry for 3 minutes longer. Add the blended beans and chorizo and fry the mixture, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan, until it is reduced to a thick paste. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool, then stir in the grated cheese.
Stuff the chiles with the bean mixture and arrange them on a round platter lined with romaine lettuce leaves. Cover each chile with a strip of the cheese and the onion and carrot pieces from the pickling mixture, and serve at room temperature.
SERVES 6
This very simple way of preparing whole ancho chiles to serve with roasted or broiled meats, or as a relish with cold cuts, comes from the Sierra de Puebla.
Some years ago I attended an exhibition of traditional Mexican foods in Morelia, where almost the same recipe was served as an appetizer: the anchos were stuffed with ricotta—a very nice idea! The chiles can be eaten the day they are made, or perhaps better still, when they have been left for a day or two to season at the bottom of the refrigerator.
ONE DAY AHEAD
6 MEDIUM ANCHO CHILES, WIPED CLEAN
3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
1 SMALL WHITE ONION, THINLY SLICED
½ CUP (125 ML) VINEGAR
½ TEASPOON SALT, OR TO TASTE
½ CUP (125 ML) WATER
2 OUNCES (60 G) QUESO AÑEJO, ROMANO, OR SARDO CHEESE, FINELY GRATED (ABOUT ⅔ CUP/165 ML)
¼ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO
TO SERVE
1 SMALL WHITE ONION, THINLY SLICED
6 ROMAINE LETTUCE LEAVES
1 MEDIUM TOMATO, SLICED
A day ahead, heat an ungreased skillet or comal over medium heat and let the chiles heat through, turning them over from time to time, until they have softened and become flexible. Flatten each chile out as much as possible, then make a slit down one side and halfway around the top, to which the stem is attached. Remove the seeds and veins.
Heat the oil in a skillet. Pressing the inside of one chile at a time into the oil, let it fry for a minute or so—its color will turn to an opaque tobacco brown. (Take care that the heat is not too high or the chile will readily burn.) When all the chiles have been fried, drain off the excess oil.
Add the sliced onion to the skillet and cook gently until it is translucent; do not let it brown. Add the vinegar, salt, water, and chiles and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the chiles are completely soft. Remove the chiles from the skillet, drain, and set them aside to cool.
Sprinkle the inside of each chile with a little cheese. Reform them by folding the edges back in place, then set them in one layer in a serving dish and pour the liquid from the pan over them. Sprinkle them with oregano. Top with onion rings, both cooked and raw. At this point, the chiles can be left to marinate in the refrigerator for a day or two. Just before serving, decorate the sides of the dish with the lettuce and tomato.
ELIZABETH BORTON DE TREVIÑO
SERVES 6
THE MARINADE
⅓ CUP (85 ML) WATER
2 TABLESPOONS VINEGAR
1 GARLIC CLOVE, SLICED
3 SPRIGS FRESH MARJORAM OR ⅛ TEASPOON DRIED
1 MEXICAN BAY LEAF
SALT TO TASTE
3 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL
THE CHILES
6 SMALL POBLANO CHILES, CHARRED AND PEELED
THE GUACAMOLE STUFFING
3 TABLESPOONS FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
2 MEDIUM AVOCADOS
½ TEASPOON FRESH LIME JUICE
SALT TO TASTE
TO SERVE
LETTUCE LEAVES
POMEGRANATE SEEDS OR CHOPPED FRESH CILANTRO
Mix all the marinade ingredients well and set them aside.
Leaving the top of the chiles intact, slit down the side and carefully remove seeds and veins. Put the chiles into the marinade and refrigerate them at least 2 days, turning them from time to time.
When you are ready to serve the chiles, crush the onion. Cut open the avocados and scoop out the flesh. Mash with the onion, lime juice, and salt.
Drain the chiles and stuff them well with the guacamole. Arrange on a bed of lettuce leaves on a serving dish and decorate them with the pomegranate seeds or chopped cilantro.
SERVES 6
THE SALAD
2 CUPS (500 ML) NOPAL CACTUS PIECES, COOKED
2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL (OPTIONAL)
4 TEASPOONS MILD VINEGAR OR FRESH LIME JUICE
½ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO
3 TABLESPOONS FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
SALT TO TASTE
¼ CUP (65 ML) ROUGHLY CHOPPED CILANTRO
TO SERVE
LETTUCE LEAVES
STRIPS OF JALAPEÑO CHILES EN ESCABECHE
4 OUNCES (115 G) QUESO FRESCO, CRUMBLED (ABOUT ⅔ CUP/165 ML)
1 SMALL PURPLE ONION, SLICED
2 MEDIUM TOMATOES, SLICED
Mix all the salad ingredients well and set aside to season for about 1 hour.
Line the dish with the lettuce leaves, put the salad on top, and top with the rest of the ingredients.
SERVES 6
12 OUNCES (340 G) COOKED ZUCCHINI
12 OUNCES (340 G) COOKED GREEN BEANS
1 SMALL WHITE ONION, THINLY SLICED
A WELL-SEASONED OIL AND VINEGAR DRESSING
TO SERVE
2 PEACHES, PEELED AND SLICED
1 SMALL AVOCADO, PEELED AND CUT INTO STRIPS
SEEDS OF HALF A POMEGRANATE, IF AVAILABLE
Cut the zucchini lengthwise into halves and then into quarters. Cut the beans into thirds. Mix the onion with the squash and beans in a nonreactive bowl.
Toss the vegetables in the dressing and spread onto a serving platter. Decorate the salad with the peeled and sliced peaches, the avocado strips, and the pomegranate seeds.
SERVES 6
1½ POUNDS (675 G) COOKED ZUCCHINI (OR CAULIFLOWER, OR CHAYOTE), STILL SLIGHTLY CRISP
½ TEASPOON MEXICAN DRIED OREGANO
A WELL-SEASONED OIL AND VINEGAR DRESSING
TO SERVE
SLICED WHITE ONIONS WILTED IN LIME JUICE
1 SMALL AVOCADO, SLICED
GREEN OLIVES
4 OUNCES (115 G) STRIPS OF QUESO FRESCO (ABOUT ⅔ CUP/165 ML)
Cut the squash lengthwise into halves and then into quarters. Divide the cauliflower into flowerets, or peel and slice the chayote.
Mix the vegetable with the oregano and salad dressing in a nonreactive bowl. Spread on a serving platter and decorate with the pickled onion rings, avocado slices, olives, and strips of the cheese.
SERVES 6
2 SMALL JÍCAMAS OR 1 LARGE ONE (ABOUT 1½ POUNDS/675 G)
1 HEAPED TABLESPOON FINELY CHOPPED CILANTRO
SALT TO TASTE
½ CUP (125 ML) SEVILLE ORANGE JUICE OR SUBSTITUTE
1 LARGE SWEET ORANGE
Peel the jícamas with a potato peeler, cut them into about ¼-inch (.75-cm) cubes, and put into a nonreactive bowl. Add the cilantro, salt, and Seville orange juice and set aside to season for at least 1 hour.
Peel and thinly slice the orange. Serve the salad topped with the orange slices.