Carne con Chile Verde 
Beef with Green Chile
Asado Placero Sinaloense Meat and Vegetables with Tomato Sauce Sinaloa
Bisteces Rancheros Sonorenses Sonoran Country Steaks
Carne de Res con Col Ground Beef with Cabbage
Estofado de Lengua Tongue in Oaxacan Sauce
SEÑORA ROSA MARGARITA J. DE MEJÍA
SERVES 6
2¼ POUNDS (1 KG) STEWING BEEF, WITH SOME FAT, CUT INTO ½-INCH (1.5-CM) CUBES
SALT TO TASTE
3 GARLIC CLOVES, FINELY CHOPPED
2 CUPS (500 ML) WATER, APPROXIMATELY
2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL, APPROXIMATELY
1¼ CUPS (315 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1½ TABLESPOONS ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR
12 ANAHEIM CHILES, CHARRED, PEELED, SEEDS REMOVED, AND CUT INTO SQUARES
8 OUNCES (225 G) TOMATOES, BROILED AND MASHED
Put the meat—in two layers, no more—into a large, heavy pan. Add the salt, garlic, and ½ cup (125 ml) of the water, then cover the pan and cook over very low heat until the meat is almost tender, the liquid evaporated, and the fat rendering out—about 45 minutes, depending on the cut and quality of the meat. (It may be necessary to add a little more water to prevent the meat from sticking. On the other hand, if there is too much liquid as the meat approaches the correct point of tenderness, remove the cover, raise the heat, and reduce rapidly.) Shake the pan and turn the meat over from time to time.
Add enough oil to the fat in the pan to make about 3 tablespoons. Turn the heat to medium, then add the onion, and brown the meat lightly. Sprinkle the flour into the pan and let it brown lightly, stirring constantly. Add the chiles, tomatoes, and remaining 1½ cups (375 ml) water, then cover the pan and cook over low heat for another 20 minutes. (At the end of the cooking time there should be some liquid in the pan, but it should not be soupy; it may be necessary to add a little more water during the cooking time.)
Adjust the seasoning and serve hot, with flour tortillas.
NOTE: This dish can be prepared several hours ahead and reheated. I don’t recommend freezing.
SEÑORA MARÍA LUISA CÁRDENAS, RESTAURANTE LA NEGRA, MAZATLÁN
SERVES 6
I must say at the outset that this dish did not “send” me. But it is a popular dish in Sinaloa and has a place in any collection of typical Mexican recipes. Nobody, of course, can agree just what vegetables should go into it, and some cooks include carrots, chayotes, and green beans.
In Mazatlán it is customary to eat seafood in the middle of the day and at night asado or, as in other parts of Mexico, tacos and antojitos. Some years ago if you had asked around about the best place to eat asado, the unhesitating answer would have been La Negra. I went there, and of course it was closed that week for painting. I found Señora Cárdenas sitting in her kitchen behind the restaurant, and when I explained that I had made a special trip to see her, she generously gave me her recipe.
I suggest that you use chuck or any good stewing beef, or leftover roast beef—in which case you should leave out the first part of the recipe.
THE MEAT AND VEGETABLES
2¼ POUNDS (1 KG) BEEF BRISKET, CUT INTO ½-INCH (1.5-CM) CUBES
½ MEDIUM WHITE ONION, ROUGHLY SLICED
3 GARLIC CLOVES
SALT
1 POUND (450 G) RED BLISS OR OTHER WAXY POTATOES, CUT INTO ½-INCH (1.5-CM) CUBES
2 CUPS (500 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION
½ CUP (125 ML) MILD VINEGAR
½ CUP (125 ML) CUBED, COOKED BEETS (OPTIONAL)
¼ CUP (65 ML) VEGETABLE OIL
1 CUP (250 ML) FINELY SHREDDED CABBAGE, BLANCHED IN BOILING WATER
2 CUPS (500 ML) SHREDDED LETTUCE
Put the meat, roughly sliced onion, garlic, and about 1 tablespoon salt into a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a simmer and cook the beef until tender, about 45 minutes—time will vary tremendously, depending on the thickness of the piece of meat. Let the meat cool off in the broth.
Cover the potatoes in a saucepan with water, add salt to taste, and boil until still slightly crisp. Drain and cool slightly, then peel.
Put the thinly sliced onion into the vinegar in a nonreactive bowl with the beets, if used, add salt to taste, and leave to macerate.
Heat the oil and fry the meat and potatoes together until lightly browned, then adjust the seasoning and serve topped with the onion, cabbage, and lettuce. Pass the sauce separately.
NOTE: This dish can be prepared several hours ahead. It is not suitable for freezing.
THE SAUCE
1¼ POUNDS (500 G) TOMATOES
1 GARLIC CLOVE
1 SERRANO CHILE OR ANY FRESH, HOT GREEN CHILE
SALT TO TASTE
½ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO
PREPARE THE SAUCE: Cover the tomatoes with boiling water and simmer until soft—about 15 minutes. Drain, then blend with the garlic, chile, and salt until smooth. Add the oregano and set aside, but keep warm.
SEÑORA CONSUELO M. DE MARTÍNEZ
SERVES 6
This dish is a typical example of the simple but robust country cooking of Sonora. None of the flavors predominate, and the touches of cilantro and rather mild chiles are just right. Although this recipe is usually cooked on top of the stove, I prefer the flavor when cooked in the oven.
6 SHOULDER OR CHUCK STEAKS, ABOUT ¼ INCH/.75 CM THICK (ABOUT 2 POUNDS/ 900 G)
1 LARGE GARLIC CLOVE, CRUSHED
SALT AND PEPPER TO TASTE
¼ CUP (65 ML) VEGETABLE OIL
2 CUPS (500 ML) THINLY SLICED WHITE ONION
8 WHOLE SPRIGS CILANTRO
SALT TO TASTE
1 POUND (450 G) RED BLISS OR WAXY NEW POTATOES
3 ANAHEIM CHILES, CHARRED, PEELED, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
Season the steaks on both sides with garlic, salt, and pepper and set aside for about 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 350° F (180° C).
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a skillet. Quickly brown the steaks on both sides, adding more oil as necessary. Place them in one layer on a shallow ovenproof dish, set aside, and keep warm.
Let the oil cool a little, then add the onion and cook it gently, without browning, until it is translucent.
Cut a slice off the top of each tomato. Grate the flesh on a coarse grater until only the flattened skin is left in your hand. Don’t forget to grate the flesh from the top slices.
Add the tomato pulp, cilantro, and salt to the onion in the pan and let the sauce cook fast over fairly high heat for 5 minutes. Stir from time to time to prevent sticking.
Peel and slice the potatoes about ¼ inch (.75 cm) thick. Place the slices on top of the steaks. Pour the sauce over the meat and potatoes.
Cut the chiles into narrow strips, place the strips on top of the sauce, cover the dish, and bake for 35 minutes. Bake, uncovered, for another 35 minutes, by which time the sauce should be reduced and the potatoes just beginning to brown.
NOTE: This dish can be prepared a couple of hours ahead; in fact, it improves in flavor. I do not recommend freezing.
SEÑORA PATRICIA MARTÍNEZ
MAKES ABOUT 4¼ CUPS (1.63 L) FOR TOSTADAS SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE
When I am in Tapachula, Chiapas, I always like to have breakfast in the market. One morning it was a rather unusual breakfast, tostadas topped with Carne de Res con Col. Señora Patricia said this mixture could also be used for stuffing chiles or serving as a main course with white rice. It makes a delicious topping for a tortata garnished with white onion wilted in lime juice.
I like to prepare this dish a little ahead so that the flavors intensify.
3 GARLIC CLOVES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
6 PEPPERCORNS
SALT TO TASTE
1 POUND (450 G) GROUND SIRLOIN WITH A LITTLE FAT
3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
¼ CUP (65 ML) FINELY CHOPPED WHITE ONION
1 CHILE VERDE CRIOLLO OR JALAPEÑO, FINELY CHOPPED
6 OUNCES (180 G) TOMATOES, FINELY CHOPPED (ABOUT 1 ROUNDED CUP/265 ML)
4 CUPS (1 L) FINELY SHREDDED CABBAGE
⅔ CUP (165 ML) WATER
½ CUP (125 ML) FIRMLY PACKED, ROUGHLY CHOPPED CILANTRO
Crush the garlic, peppercorns, and salt together and mix well into the beef (hands are best). Set aside for a few minutes to season.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet, add the onion, chile, and a sprinkle of salt, and cook over medium heat until the onion is translucent—about 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and continue cooking until most of the juice has been absorbed—about 3 minutes.
Stir the meat into the pan and cook over fairly high heat, stirring from time to time—about 7 minutes. Add the cabbage, water, and cilantro and continue cooking over medium heat, stirring from time to time until the mixture is well seasoned and moist but not juicy—about 15 minutes. Serve as suggested above.
SEÑORA DOMATILA SANTIAGO DE MORALES
SERVES 6 TO 8
A 5-POUND (2.25-KG) FRESH BEEF TONGUE
1 SMALL WHITE ONION, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
3 GARLIC CLOVES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
8 PEPPERCORNS
SALT TO TASTE
THE SAUCE
2 TABLESPOONS SESAME SEEDS
6 TABLESPOONS LARD OR VEGETABLE OIL
2 ANCHO CHILES, WIPED CLEAN, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
2 OUNCES (60 G) UNSKINNED ALMONDS—A GOOD ⅓ CUP (85 ML)
1 SMALL DRY TORTILLA, BROKEN INTO PIECES
½ CUP (125 ML) TONGUE BROTH OR WATER
⅛ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO, OR ¼ TEASPOON DRIED OAXACAN OREGANO
6 SPRIGS FRESH THYME OR ½ TEASPOON DRIED
6 SPRIGS FRESH MARJORAM OR ½ TEASPOON DRIED
½-INCH (1.5-CM) PIECE OF CINNAMON STICK, CRUSHED
2 POUNDS (900 G) TOMATOES, FINELY CHOPPED (ABOUT 5⅓ CUPS/1.3 L)
SALT TO TASTE
½ CUP (125 ML) PITTED GREEN OLIVES
Put the tongue into a saucepan with the onion, garlic, peppercorns, and salt. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the tongue is tender—about 3 hours. Let the tongue cool in the broth, and as soon as it is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skin. Strain the broth and return the tongue to the broth. Keep warm.
Toast the sesame seeds in a skillet over low heat, stirring them and shaking the pan from time to time until they are a deep golden color—take care not to let them burn—about 5 minutes.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the lard in a small skillet and fry the chiles over medium heat for about ½ minute on each side—the inside flesh should turn the color of tobacco. Drain and set aside.
In the same lard, fry the almonds over medium heat, turning them and shaking the pan until they turn a darker color. Drain and crush them well (so as not to strain the blender).
In the same lard, fry the tortilla pieces for a few minutes until crisp. Drain and set aside.
Put the ½ cup (125 ml) tongue broth or water into the blender jar, add the dried herbs and spices, and blend as smooth as possible. Gradually add the chiles, tomatoes, sesame seeds, almonds, and tortillas, blending thoroughly after each addition.
Heat the remaining 3 tablespoons lard in a heavy pan, add the sauce, and cook over medium heat for about 10 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan from time to time to avoid sticking. Stir in salt to taste. The sauce should be of medium consistency and lightly cover the back of a wooden spoon. Add broth to dilute if necessary.
Drain the tongue and cut into thick slices. Arrange on a large platter in one slightly overlapping layer and cover with most of the sauce. Sprinkle the top with the olives and serve immediately. Pass the rest of the sauce separately.
NOTE: This dish can be prepared several hours, even a day, ahead and reheated.
Leftovers can also be frozen successfully.
SEÑORA DOMATILA SANTIAGO DE MORALES
SERVES 6
This recipe was given to me by one of the most interesting cooks I met in Oaxaca: Señora Domatila Santiago de Morales, whom I have mentioned many times before because she was my first mentor for Oaxacan food way back in 1970.
The meat may be cooked on top of the stove but I prefer to put it in the oven.
A simple green salad would be a very good accompaniment to this dish.
3 POUNDS (1.35 KG) BRISKET IN ONE PIECE, TRIMMED OF SOME OF THE FAT
1½ TABLESPOONS SLIVERED ALMONDS
8 OUNCES (225 G) BACON OR HAM, CUT INTO SMALL PIECES
3 LARGE ANCHO CHILES, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
1½ TABLESPOONS MILD VINEGAR
¾ CUP (185 ML) WATER
3 WHOLE CLOVES, CRUSHED
½-INCH (1.5-CM) PIECE OF CINNAMON STICK, CRUSHED
6 SPRIGS FRESH THYME OR ½ TEASPOON DRIED
6 SPRIGS FRESH MARJORAM OR ½ TEASPOON DRIED
¼ TEASPOON DRIED MEXICAN OREGANO, OR ½ TEASPOON DRIED OAXACAN OREGANO
3 GARLIC CLOVES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
3 TABLESPOONS LARD OR VEGETABLE OIL
SALT TO TASTE
1½ POUNDS (675 G) RED BLISS OR NEW POTATOES
Preheat the oven to 325° F (165° C).
Pierce the meat all over with a knife point and insert the almonds and bacon. Set it aside while the sauce is prepared.
Toast the chiles lightly, turning them often so they won’t burn. Put the chiles into a bowl, cover with hot water, and leave them to soak for about 10 minutes.
Put the vinegar and water into the blender jar, add the spices, herbs, and garlic, and blend as smoothly as possible. Add the chiles and blend to a fairly smooth consistency.
Heat the lard in a Dutch oven and when it is very hot sear the meat well all over. Remove the meat and set it aside. Drain off the fat, leaving only 2 tablespoons in the pan. Add the sauce to the pan and let it cook fast for about 5 minutes, stirring it all the time. Add salt to taste.
Return the meat to the pan and baste it with the sauce. Cover the casserole with a tightly fitting lid and cook the meat in the oven for about 2 hours.
Put the potatoes, unskinned, into a saucepan, cover them with boiling water, and let boil fast for 5 minutes. Drain them and set them aside to cool. When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, skin.
Remove the casserole from the oven, turn the meat over, and baste it well with the sauce. Scrape the sauce from the sides and bottom of the pan and add a little water if it has thickened too much.
Put the potatoes into the sauce around the meat, replace the lid, and let the meat cook until it is very tender but not falling apart—test after 1 hour and 10 minutes.
Slice the meat fairly thick and place it on a serving dish with the potatoes around it. Pour the sauce over it.
NOTE: The pot roast could be prepared a day ahead if necessary, but in that case the potato would have to be cooked separately and just warmed through in the sauce. I would not recommend freezing.
SEÑORITA LEONOR
SERVES 6
This recipe was given to me by a friend’s Oaxacan maid. Although it is not an outstanding dish, as such, it nevertheless has a delicious flavor, and guinea-pig friends of mine loved it when I was test-cooking. I always serve it with fried pasilla chiles on top to give it a little extra bite.
2½ TO 3 POUNDS (1.125 TO 1.35 KG) BEEF POT ROAST, IN ONE PIECE
2 TEASPOONS SALT, OR TO TASTE
FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER
3 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL
3 PASILLA CHILES, WIPED CLEAN, SEEDS AND VEINS REMOVED
2½ CUPS (625 ML) WATER, APPROXIMATELY
12 OUNCES (340 G) TOMATOES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED (ABOUT 2 CUPS/500 ML)
¾ CUP (185 ML) SESAME SEEDS, TOASTED
3 THICK, CRISPLY TOASTED ROUNDS OF FRENCH BREAD, CRUSHED
2 GARLIC CLOVES, ROUGHLY CHOPPED
TO SERVE
4 PASILLA CHILES, WIPED CLEAN AND FRIED CRISP
SMALL, UNSKINNED WAXY POTATOES, BOILED
Season the meat with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a heavy Dutch oven and brown the meat lightly all over. Remove from the oil and set aside.
Toast the chiles on a medium-hot griddle or comal; when they are cool they should be rather crisp, but take care not to burn them or the sauce will have a bitter taste. Put 1 cup (250 ml) of the water into the blender and add the tomatoes, the toasted chiles, sesame seeds, bread, and the garlic and blend until smooth. (You may need a little extra water but use only enough to loosen the blades of the blender.)
Fry the sauce over fairly high heat, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot, for about 5 minutes. Add the meat and 1½ cups (375 ml) of water. Adjust the seasoning, then cover and cook over slow heat about 4 hours or until tender.
To serve, slice the meat rather thick, pour the sauce over, top with the fried pasilla chiles, and surround with the boiled potatoes.
NOTE: This dish can be prepared several hours ahead, even the day before, and reheated. Leftovers can be frozen up to 1 month.