6Drinking & Nightlife

A city of midnight hedonists, St Petersburg has plenty of bars, pubs and cafes where you can enjoy a craft beer, an aritsan coffee or a strong cocktail at almost any time of day.

You can drink almost everywhere; even in smart restaurants you’re generally welcome to come in and order just a beer, while the city’s best cocktail bars are superb. The centre of the drinking scene is Dumskaya ul and ul Lomonosova, lined with dive bars and dance clubs and a sea of drunken revellers at the weekends.

Historic Heart

oMod ClubBAR, CLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.modclub.info; nab kanala Griboyedova 7; cover R150-350; h6pm-6am; mNevsky Prospekt)

A popular spot for students and other indie types who appreciate the fun and friendly atmosphere and a cool mix of music both live and spun. Laid-back and great fun, this is a solid choice for a night out.

oCoffee 22CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://vk.com/coffeeat22; ul Kazanskaya 22; h8.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, until 1am Fri, 10am-1am Sat, 10am-11pm Sun; W; mNevsky Prospekt)

In an area heavily saturated with hipster cafes, Coffee 22 – with its tattooed baristas and service staff, arty decor (piercing portrait of Joseph Brodsky, a rustic wall of dried mosses) and fashion-forward customers – is perhaps the hippest of them all. Listen to its DJs via its mixcloud.com/coffee22 soundtrack.

oTop HopsCRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-966-757 0116; www.tophops.ru; nab reki Fontanki 55; h4pm-1am Mon-Thu, 2pm-2am Fri-Sun; W; mGostiny Dvor)

One of the nicer craft-beer bars in town, this riverside space with friendly staff serves up a regularly changing menu of 20 beers on tap and scores more in bottles. The tasty Mexican snacks and food (go for nachos and chilli) go down exceptionally well while you sample your way through their range.

oBorodabarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-911-923 8940; www.facebook.com/Borodabar; Kazanskaya ul 11; h5pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; W; mNevsky Prospekt)

Boroda means beard in Russian, and sure enough you'll see plenty of facial hair and tattoos in this hipster cocktail hang-out. Never mind, as the mixologists really know their stuff – we can particularly recommend their smoked Old Fashioned, which is infused with tobacco smoke, and their colourful (and potent) range of shots.

oApotheke BarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-337 1535; http://hatgroup.ru/apotheke-bar; ul Lomonosova 1; h8pm-6am Tue-Sun; mGostiny Dvor)

The antithesis of the nearby dive bars, Apotheke is a calm, cosy cocoon for cocktail connoisseurs. Its slogan is 'think what you drink', so there's no official menu but a friendly young bartender, most likely in a white jacket and sporting a hipster moustache, to make suggestions or simply surprise you.

Pif PafBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-312 6227; http://pifpafhair.wixsite.com/pifpaf; nab kanala Griboyedova 31; h10am-3am Sun-Thu, until 6am Fri & Sat; W; mNevsky Prospekt)

It's a happening bar, it serves a mean burger and there's a hairdresser at the back – should you fancy a new 'do' part-way through the night. Oh, and there's a fussball table, if conversation lags and you fancy a bit of hand-twisting action.

TanzploshchadkaCLUB

(Танцплощадка MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tancplo.com; Konyushennaya pl 2a; h8pm-6am Fri & Sat; mNevsky Prospket)

Beloved by beautiful young things, this is the dance club of the moment with a shabby-chic indoor space beneath a lofty vaulted brick ceiling and plenty of outdoor space should it get too hot inside. Find it at the back, through the archway and courtyard complex south of Konyushennaya pl.

Bonch CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-740 7083; www.bonchcoffee.ru; Bolshaya Morskaya ul 16; h8.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; W; mAdmiralteyskaya)

Coffee is brewed just the way you like it at this pleasantly designed cafe occupying a large corner space in a handy location. It's a great place for breakfast as well as late-night sweet treats as there's 30% off all desserts after 10pm.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

SECRET BARS & RESTAURANTS

Secret 'speakeasy' style bars and restaurants where you'll need to call or email ahead for the password and directions are hip these days in St Petersburg. These are a couple we like:

Kvartira Kosti KroitsaINTERNATIONAL$$

(Квартира Кости Кройца MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kreutzflat.com; 5th fl, apt 8, ul Marata 1, 921-651 7788; mains R450-730; h24hr; Wv; mMayakovskaya)

A beautifully designed bourgeois hideaway, Kvartira Kosti comprises a stylish restaurant with views over Nevsky pr, a small handsomely designed bar, and a surprising tea salon tucked in the back, with a stained-glass skylight and elegant furnishings set amid a circular room. The menu features Asian-style noodle dishes, creative salads, risotto, fish and chips, and a full breakfast lineup.

oKabinetCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-911-921 1944; www.instagram.com/kabinet_bar; Malaya Sadovaya ul 8; h8am-6pm; mGostiny Dvor)

Bookings are essential for this speakeasy cocktail bar styled as a secret poker joint and hidden beneath the Grill Brothers burger restaurant. It's a fun, sophisticated place with the waiters dealing sets of cards to determine your choice of cocktail.

Smolny & Vosstaniya

oHatBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Belinskogo 9; h7pm-5am; mGostiny Dvor)

The wonderfully retro-feeling Hat is a serious spot for jazz and whiskey lovers, who come for the nightly live music and the cool cat crowd that makes this wonderfully designed bar feel like it's been transported out of 1950s Greenwich Village. A very welcome change of gear for St Petersburg's drinking options, but it can be extremely packed at weekends.

oUnion Bar & GrillBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/barunion; Liteyny pr 55; h6pm-4am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; W; mMayakovskaya)

The Union is a glamorous and fun place, characterised by one enormous long wooden bar, low lighting and a New York feel. It's all rather adult, with a serious cocktail list and designer beers on tap. The hip 20- and 30-something crowd packs in on weekends to catch live bands, but it's generally quiet during the week.

There's good snack fare (burgers, hummus with pita, shawarma) from the grill in the back room, and a tiny rear patio for the smoking crowd.

oZiferblatANTICAFE

(Циферблат MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-981-180 7022; www.ziferblat.net; 2nd fl, Nevsky pr 81; per min R3, per min after 1st hr R2; h11am-midnight; W; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

A charming multiroom 'free space' that has started a worldwide trend, Ziferblat is the original anticafe in St Petersburg. Coffee, tea, soft drinks and biscuits are included as you while away your time playing chess and other board games, reading, playing instruments (help yourself to the piano and guitar) or just hanging out with the arty young locals who frequent its cosy rooms.

The unsigned entrance is hard to find. Look for the big #81 sign on Nevsky pr, then find the door with buzzers just east of there. Ring Циферблат (labelled in Russian only).

oRedrumBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-416 1126; www.facebook.com/redrumbarspb; ul Nekrasova 26; h4pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mMayakovskaya)

One of St Petersburg's best drinking dens, Redrum hits all the right notes. It has a cosy, white brick interior, a welcoming, easygoing crowd, and a stellar selection of craft brews (some two dozen on tap). There's also good pub fare on hand to go with that creative line-up of Session Indian Pale Ales, sour ales, Berliner Weisse and porters.

Have a seat at the small circular bar and get ordering tips from the friendly bartenders, who will be happy to point you in the right direction.

oCommodeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.commode.club; ul Rubinshteyna 1, 2nd fl; per hr R180; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat)

Stopping in for drinks at Commode feels more like hanging out in an upper-class friend's stylish apartment. After getting buzzed up, you can hang out in various high-ceilinged rooms, catch a small concert or poetry slam, browse books in the quasi-library room, play a round of table football, or chat with the easygoing crowd that have fallen for the place.

Drink and snack prices and are kept low (cocktails run R100 to R150), but you'll pay by the hour – not unlike an anticafe – for time spent at this so-called self-cost bar.

GriboyedovCLUB

(Грибоедов MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.griboedovclub.ru; Voronezhskaya ul 2a; hnoon-6am Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun; W; mLigovsky Prospekt)

Griboyedov is hands-down the longest-standing and most respected music club in the city. Housed in a repurposed bomb shelter, this one was founded by local ska collective Dva Samolyota. It’s a low-key bar in the early evening, gradually morphing into a dance club later in the night. Admission varies from free to upwards of R400, depending on who's playing or spinning.

ZiferburgANTICAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; nab reki Fontanki 20; per min R3; h11am-midnight; mGostiny Dvor)

Tucked inside the Golitsyn Loft, this is one of St Petersburg's loveliest spots to while away an afternoon. Elegant furnishings, huge windows and a piano in the corner set the scene. Like other anti-cafes, you'll pay by the minute, with drinks and cookies part of the deal.

The price tops out at R540, meaning you won't pay more than that even if you spend all day here.

Sennaya & Kolomna

Stirka 40BAR

(Стирка MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kazanskaya ul 26; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W; mSennaya Ploshchad)

This friendly joint, whose name means 'washing', has three washing machines, so you can drop off a load and have a few beers while you wait. A novel idea, though one few people seem to take advantage of. Its small and unassuming layout makes it a great place for a quiet drink with a cool young crowd.

SchumliCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.schumli.ru; Kazanskaya ul 40; h9.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; W; mSennaya Ploshchad)

With its large range of coffees, sumptuous selection of cakes and – best of all – freshly made Belgian waffles, this small but friendly cafe is a great place to regain flagging energy when wandering around the city. There's an upstairs dining room for full meals (mains R320 to R640), but coffee with a side of something sweet is the real reason to come.

Vasilyevsky Island

oBeer Boutique 1516CRAFT BEER

(Пивной бутик 1516 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-328 6066; http://butik1516.ru; 9-ya liniya 55; h3-10pm; mVasileostrovskaya)

Your craft-beer cravings are sure to be satisfied at this bar-cum-bottle shop that has dedicated itself to the best of local and international ales. There's usually around 17 beers on tap and 300 or so in bottles to choose from – so it could be a long night.

oRadosti KofeCAFE

(Радости Кофе MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-925 7222; www.facebook.com/radosticoffee/; nab Makarova 28; h8am-11pm; W; mSportivnaya)

A leafy, relaxed ambience and river views across to the Petrograd Side make this a pleasant pit stop for coffee, other drinks and snacks while touring Vasilyevsky Island. They can make their drinks with soy, almond or hazelnut milk. The menu is available in English.

Petrograd & Vyborg Sides

Big Wine FreaksWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %921-938 6063; Instrumentalnaya ul 3; h6pm-1am Tue-Sat; W)

Boasting a stylish contemporary design, this aptly named place serves an excellent variety of wines from Europe and the New World, plus tasty snacks to go with those tempranillos and chardonnays. Helpful staff – all trained sommeliers – can provide tips on what to order. There's live music, along the lines of acoustic jazz, on Wednesday nights from 8pm.

Double BCAFE

(Даблби MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.double-b.ru; Kronverksky pr; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; mGorkovskaya)

One of Petrograd Side's best coffee spots is this hip little cafe on busy Kronverksky pr. Staff can make you a perfect brew with all the essential gadgetry. A green and grey colour scheme, geometric designs, curious lamps and a big picture window make a fine setting for a bit of caffeinated daydreaming.

YasliBAR

(Ясли MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/yaslibar; ul Markina 1; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; mGorkovskaya)

Tucked down a narrow lane off busy Kronverksky, Yasli makes a fine retreat on chilly nights, with its excellent craft brews on tap and satisfying pub grub (like fish and chips). The setting channels a bit of Brooklyn chic with industrial fixtures and a hip but unpretentious crowd.

Bolshoy BarBAR

(Большой Бар MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bolshoy pr 45; h9am-1am Sun-Tue, to 4am Wed-Sat; W)

A dapper boxcar-sized spot with old-time music and black-and-white films playing silently in the background, wryly named Bolshoy serves up good coffees by day and first-rate cocktails by night – though daytime drinking isn't discouraged. Slip onto a comfy bar stool and order an Aperol spritz from the talented but bristly bartender.

LGBT ST PETERSBURG

St Petersburg's LGBT nightlife is centred on the large and mainstream club Central Station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-312 3600; http://centralstation.ru; ul Lomonosova 1/28; cover after midnight R100-300; h6pm-6am; mNevsky Prospekt) and the more alternative Golubaya Ustritsa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-921-332 5161; www.boyster.ru; ul Lomonosova 1; h7pm-6am; mGostiny Dvor), a self-styled ‘trash bar’ that guarantees a raucous and cheap night out for anyone. Another option is the long-running Soviet-style club Cabaret (Кабаре MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cabarespb.ru; Razyezzhaya ul 43; cover R300-600; h11pm-6am Thu-Sat; mLigovsky Prospekt) where the 2.30am drag show at weekends is very popular.

There is a busy and growing LGBT scene, but it remains fairly discreet. Gay pride marches are routinely attacked by far right groups and the police often harass protesters. Coming Out (www.comingoutspb.com) is the site of a St Petersburg–based support organisation.

3Entertainment

The classical performing arts are one of the biggest draws in St Petersburg. Highly acclaimed professional artists stage productions in elegant theatres around the city, many of which have been recently revamped and look marvellous.

Historic Heart

oAlexandrinsky TheatreTHEATRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-710 4103; www.alexandrinsky.ru; pl Ostrovskogo 2; tickets R900-6000; mGostiny Dvor)

This magnificent venue is just one part of an immaculate architectural ensemble designed by Carlo Rossi. The theatre’s interior oozes 19th-century elegance and style, and it’s worth taking a peek even if you don’t see a production here.

New StagePERFORMING ARTS

(Новая сцена MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-401 5341; http://alexandrinsky.ru; nab reki Fontanki 49a; mGostiny Dvor)

The New Stage at Alexandrinsky, which opened in 2013, is a strikingly modern building for the historic city center but one that keeps a low profile due to the architect's ingenious use of glass and a secluded courtyard space. Come here to see contemporary dance, music, film, lectures and other events.

oMikhailovsky TheatrePERFORMING ARTS

(Михайловский театр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-595 4305; www.mikhailovsky.ru; pl Iskusstv 1; tickets R500-5000; mNevsky Prospekt)

This illustrious stage delivers the Russian ballet or operatic experience, complete with multitiered theatre, frescoed ceiling and elaborate productions. Pl Iskusstv (Arts Sq) is a lovely setting for this respected venue, which is home to the State Academic Opera & Ballet Company.

Shostakovich PhilharmoniaCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Санкт-Петербургская филармония им. Д.Д.Шостаковича MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.philharmonia.spb.ru; tickets R800-2500; mNevsky Prospekt)

Under the artistic direction of world-famous conductor Yury Temirkanov, the Philharmonia represents the finest in orchestral music. The Bolshoy Zal (Большой зал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-240 0180; Mikhailovskaya ul 2; mNevsky Prospekt) is the venue for a full program of symphonic performances, while the nearby Maly Zal (Малый Зал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-571 8333; Nevsky pr 30; mGostiny Dvor) hosts smaller ensembles. Both venues are used for numerous music festivals.

Smolny & Vosstaniya

CosmonautLIVE MUSIC

(Космонавт MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cosmonavt.su; ul Bronnitskaya 24; tickets R300-800; W; mTekhnologichesky Institut)

This fantastic conversion of a Soviet-era cinema in a rather nondescript part of town is a great venue for medium-sized concerts and a good place to see live acts in St Petersburg. There’s air-conditioning, which is a godsend in summer, and a very comfortable VIP lounge upstairs, with seating throughout.

Fish FabriqueLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://fishfabrique.ru; Ligovsky pr 53; hnoon-4am daily, concerts from 8pm Thu-Sun; W; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

There are St Petersburg institutions and then there’s Fish Fabrique, the museum of local boho life that has been going for over two decades. Here, in the dark underbelly of Pushkinskaya 10, artists, musicians and counter-culturalists of all ages meet to drink beer and listen to music.

Maly Drama TheatreTHEATRE

(Малый драматический театр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mdt-dodin.ru; ul Rubinshteyna 18; mVladimirskaya)

Also called the Theatre of Europe, the Maly is St Petersburg’s most internationally celebrated theatre. Its director Lev Dodin is famed for his long version of Fyodor Dostoevsky’s The Devils, as well as Anton Chekhov’s Play Without a Name, both of which toured the world to great acclaim. It's also one of the few theatres that does (some) performances with subtitles.

Jazz Philharmonic HallJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jazz-hall.com; Zagorodny pr 27; cover R1200-1500; hconcerts 7pm or 8pm Wed-Sun; mVladimirskaya)

Founded by legendary jazz violinist and composer David Goloshchokin, this venue represents the more traditional side of jazz. Two resident bands perform straight jazz and Dixieland in the big hall, which seats up to 200 people. The smaller Ellington Hall is used for occasional acoustic performances. Foreign guests also appear doing mainstream and modern jazz; check the website for details.

JFC Jazz ClubJAZZ

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-272 9850; www.jfc-club.spb.ru; Shpalernaya ul 33; cover R200-500; h7-10pm; mChernyshevskaya)

Very small and very New York, this cool club is the best place in the city to hear modern, innovative jazz music, as well as blues, bluegrass and various other styles (see the website for a list of what’s on). The space is tiny, so book a table online if you want to sit down.

DON'T MISS

MARIINSKY THEATRE

The Mariinsky Theatre (Мариинский театр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-326 4141; www.mariinsky.ru; Teatralnaya pl 1; tickets R1200-6500; mSadovaya) has played a pivotal role in Russian ballet and opera ever since it was built in 1859 and remains one of Russia's most loved and respected cultural institutions. Its pretty green-and-white main building on aptly named Teatralnaya pl (Theatre Sq) is a must for any visitor wanting to see one of the world's great ballet and opera stages, while its newer second stage, the Mariinsky II (Мариинский II MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-326 4141; www.mariinsky.ru; ul Dekabristov 34; tickets R350-6000; hticket office 11am-7pm; mSadovaya), is a state-of-the-art opera house for the 21st century.

The best way to experience these buildings is to see an opera or ballet. Outside performance times you can wander into the theatre’s foyer and maybe peep into the lovely auditorium. Private tours are sometimes available – ask at the main ticket office if these are running during your visit.

Known as the Kirov Ballet during the Soviet era, the Mariinsky has an illustrious history, with troupe members including such ballet greats as Nijinsky, Nureyev, Pavlova and Baryshnikov. In recent years the company has been invigorated by the current Artistic and General Director Valery Gergiev. It is pretty certain that the Mariinsky Theatre will close at some point in 2018 or 2019 for a full (and, again, much needed) renovation, so visit the building's faded grandeur while you can.

Sennaya & Kolomna

Rimsky-Korsakov ConservatoryCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Консерватория имени Н. А. Римского-Корсакова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-312 2519; www.conservatory.ru; Teatralnaya pl 3; tickets R300-2000; mSadovaya)

This illustrious music school was the first public music school in Russia. The Bolshoy Zal (Big Hall) on the 3rd floor is an excellent place to see performances by up-and-coming musicians throughout the academic year, while the Maly Zal (Small Hall) often hosts free concerts from present students and alumni; check when you’re in town for what’s on.

Mariinsky Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Мариинский концертный зал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mariinsky.ru; ul Dekabristov 37; tickets R700-1800; hticket office 11am-8pm; mSadovaya)

Opened in 2007, this concert hall is a magnificent multifaceted creation. It manages to preserve the historic brick facade of the set and scenery warehouse that previously stood on this spot, while the modern main entrance, facing ul Dekabristov, is all tinted glass and angular lines, hardly hinting at the beautiful old building behind.

Petrograd & Vyborg Sides

Hi-HatLIVE PERFORMANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/hihatrooftop; Aptekarsky pr 4; mPetrogradskaya)

On the rooftop of an art cluster near the Botanical Gardens, Hi-Hat hosts nights of live music, DJs and open-air film screenings. The creative line-up and open-air setting draws out style mavens and a party-minded crowd. The schedule is erratic, but events typically run from 5pm or 6pm to around 1am on Fridays and Saturdays (with the odd Sunday and Thursday happening). Check the website for the schedule.

A2LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-333 0379; http://a2.fm; pr Medikov 3; tickets from R500; mPetrogradskaya)

With an outstanding sound system and an eclectic line-up of live music and DJs, A2 is one of the best venues for contemporary sounds in the city. It houses two concert halls (seating 1500 and 5000) and has a staggering number of bars sprinkled about the complex.

KamchatkaCLUB, LIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clubkamchatka.ru; ul Blokhina 15; cover R250-350; h7pm-2am; mSportivnaya)

A shrine to Viktor Tsoy, the late Soviet-era rocker who worked as caretaker of this former boilerhouse bunker with band mates from Kino. Music lovers flock here to light candles and watch a new generation thrash out their stuff. The line-up is varied and it's worth dropping by if only for a quick drink in this highly atmospheric place – find it tucked in a courtyard off the street.

7Shopping

Historic Heart

oAu Pont RougeDEPARTMENT STORE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; https://aupontrouge.ru; nab reki Moyki 73-79; h10am-10pm; mAdmiralteyskaya)

Dating from 1906–7, the one-time Esders and Scheefhaals department store has been beautifully restored and is one of the most glamorous places to shop in the city. This glorious Style Moderne building is now dubbed Au Pont Rouge after the Krasny most (Red Bridge) it stands beside. Inside you'll find choice fashions and accessories and top-notch souvenirs.

Perinnye RyadyARTS & CRAFTS

(Перинные, арт-центр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-440 2028; http://artcenter.ru; Dumskaya ul 4; h10am-8pm; mGotsiny Dvor)

Scores of arts-and-craft stores can be found in this arcade in the middle of Dumskaya ul. Among them are Collection, with a wide range of painted works, several by members of the Union of Artists of Russia, and Pionersky Magazin, specialising in Soviet-era memorabilia, where you're guaranteed to find a bust of Lenin and colourful propaganda and art posters.

DON'T MISS

HISTORIC SHOPS OF NEVSKY PROSPEKT

Nikolai Gogol described it as 'Petersburg's universal channel of communication' in his story Nevsky Prospekt. Some 300 years on from its creation, little has changed. Nevsky remains the city's most famous street, running 4.7km from the Admiralty to the Alexandr Nevsky Monastery, from which it takes its name. Taking a stroll along it is an essential St Petersburg experience and particularly special at dusk as the low light casts shadows and picks out silhouettes from the elegant mix of architecture.

The inner 2.5km to Moscow Station (Moskovsky vokzal) is the city's prime shopping drag that pulses with street life. Here you'll find baroque palaces, churches in a range of denominations, all manner of entertainments and, above all, shops, some historic in their own right. These are the key ones not to miss:

ASinger Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nevsky pr 28; mNevsky Prospekt) The former headquarters of the Singer sewing machine company, which opened a factory in the Russian capital in 1904, is one of St Petersburg’s most gorgeous buildings. Its Style Modern architecture, designed by Pavel Suzor, and topped with a glass tower and scuplture, also housed the American consulate for a few years prior to WWI. It's possible to access the offices part of the building including the interior of the glass dome on a tour (R6000 for up to three people) organised with Placemates (%925 845 3747; http://placemates.ru; prices vary).

ABolshoy Gostiny Dvor (Большой Гостиный Двор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-630 5408; http://bgd.ru; Nevsky pr 35; h10am-10pm; mGostiny Dvor) One of the world’s first indoor shopping malls, the ‘Big Merchant Yard’ dates from between 1757 and 1785 and stretches 230m along Nevsky pr (its perimeter is more than 1km long). This Rastrelli creation is not as elaborate as some of his other work, finished as it was by Vallin de la Mothe in a more sober neoclassical style. At its height at the turn of the 20th century, Gostiny Dvor contained over 170 shops.

APassage (Пассаж MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-313 7400; http://passage.spb.ru; Nevsky pr 48; h10am-9pm; mGostiny Dvor) Built between 1846 and 1848, this arcade has a glass roof spanning the entire block from Nevsky to Italiyanskaya ul. Dostoevsky wrote a story about a man who was swallowed by a crocodile in Passage, after a live crocodile was exhibited here in 1864. Look for the small exhibition on the 1st floor with historical photos and other items related to the arcade. The handsomely restored ground floor has several good souvenir and antique shops.

AKupetz Eliseevs ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-456 6666; www.kupetzeliseevs.ru; Nevsky pr 56; h10am-11pm; W; mGostiny Dvor) This Style Moderne stunner is St Petersburg's most elegant grocery store. Built in 1904 as the flagship of the Eliseev Brothers' highly successful chain of food emporiums, little expense or design flourish was spared in its construction. In recent years the building has been restored to its full grandeur with huge plate-glass windows providing glimpses into a dazzling interior of stained glass, chandeliers, polished brass and a giant pineapple palm. The building's exterior is no less lavish, graced with four allegorical sculptures representing industry, trade and commerce, art and science. The building also included a theatre, which is still functioning.

Smolny & Vosstaniya

PhonotekaMUSIC

(Фонотека MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.phonoteka.ru; ul Marata 28; h10am-10pm; mMayakovskaya)

This cool store will thrill anyone interested in music and cinema, as it sells a very cool range of vinyls from all eras (it’s particularly strong on rare Soviet discs), a great selection of CDs from around the world and a discerning choice of film and documentary on DVD, making it an excellent place to buy Russian films.

AngliaBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; nab reki Fontanki 30; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat, noon-7pm Sun; mGostiny Dvor)

The city’s only dedicated English-language bookshop has a good selection of contemporary literature, classics, dictionaries, history and travel writing – plus a dedicated section on Russia. It also hosts small art and photography displays, organises book readings and generally is a cornerstone of expat life in St Petersburg.

Imperial PorcelainHOMEWARES

(Императорский Фарфор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ipm.ru; Vladimirsky pr 7; h10am-8pm; mVladimirskaya)

This is one of many convenient city-centre locations of the famous porcelain factory that once made tea sets for the Romanovs. If you’re determined to get a bargain, head out to the factory outlet (Императорский Фарфор GOOGLE MAP ; www.ipm.ru; pr Obukhovsky Oborony 151; h10am-8pm; mLomonosovskaya) where prices are a bit cheaper.

GaleriaSHOPPING CENTRE

(Галерея MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.galeria.spb.ru; Ligovsky pr 30A; h10am-11pm; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

This extraordinary place has rather changed everything for shopping in St Petersburg – there are probably as many shops here as elsewhere in the entire city centre. Spread over five floors, with around 300 shops (including H&M, Michael Kors, Marks & Spencer, Kiehl's and Zara), this really is a one-stop shop for pretty much all your shopping needs.

Sennaya & Kolomna

RediskаARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Grazhdanskaya ul 13, Berthold Centre; hnoon-10pm; mSadovaya)

Near the courtyard of the Berthold Centre, this delightful shop has lots of eye-catching objects, much of it made in-house or produced by St Petersburg artisans. You'll find jewellery imprinted with famous paintings, whimsical wooden clocks, ceramics, tiny Konstructor kits (a kind of miniature Lego), artfully painted flasks, backpacks, sunglasses and handmade soaps, lotions and candles.

NorthwayGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Angliyskaya nab 36/2; h9am-8pm; mAdmiralteyskaya)

There is quite simply no bigger collection of matryoshki (nesting dolls), amber, fur and other Russian souvenir staples than that on offer at this very impressive and stylish shop right on the Neva embankment. Look no further for Russian gifts to take home.

WORTH A TRIP

UDELNAYA FAIR

This weekend market (Удельная ярмарка GOOGLE MAP ; Skobolvesky pr, Vyborg Side; h8am-5pm Sat & Sun; mUdelnaya) is a treasure trove of Soviet ephemera, prerevolutionary antiques, WWII artefacts and bonkers kitsch from all eras is truly worth travelling to see. Exit the metro station to the right and follow the crowds across the train tracks. Continue beyond the large permanent market, which is of very little interest, until you come to a huge area of independent stalls, all varying in quality and content.

8Information

Danger & Annoyances

AForeigners tend to find Russians quite brusque and even unfriendly. Remember, this is a cultural thing, and try not to be offended by it. Russians take a while to warm up, but when they do they're exceptionally friendly.

AThere has been an ongoing epidemic of racist attacks in St Petersburg. If you look very obviously non-Russian, it's a good idea to avoid the suburbs and take taxis at night.

ADue to legislation criminalising the 'promotion of homosexuality' to minors, levels of homophobia are higher now than they have been for some time. Gay travellers are advised to remain discreet.

Discount Cards

If you’re a student, bring an International Student Identity Card (ISIC) to get discounts – cards issued by non-Russian universities will not always be accepted. The Hermitage is the blissful exception, where anyone with a student card from any country gets in for free. Senior citizens (usually anyone over the age of 60) are often also eligible for discounts, so bring your passport with you as proof of age.

The St Petersburg Card (https://petersburgcard.com) is sold online and by the St Petersburg Tourist Centre. It gives a range of discounts on tours and sights such as the Hermitage, Peterhof and Tsarskoe Selo (the savings aren't huge), as well as acting as a stored-value card for public transport.

Emergency

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Internet Access

Internet access is excellent and practically universal. Nearly all hotels have free wireless internet. Many restaurants, cafes, bars and clubs also have wi-fi. You may have to ask for a password (parol) to get online, and also input your mobile phone number. Sometimes this will need to be a Russian number (ie one starting with 7); if you don't have one, ask a local if you can use their number.

Media

There is no English-language newspaper but the free bimonthly In Your Pocket (www.inyourpocket.com) magazine is worth picking up for events listings and other background information.

Medical Services

Clinics

These private clinics have facilities of an international standard and are pricey, but generally accept major international insurance policies, including direct billing.

American Medical Clinic ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-740 2090; www.amclinic.ru; nab reki Moyki 78; h24hr; mAdmiralteyskaya)

Euromed ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-327 0301; www.euromed.ru; Suvorovsky pr 60; h24hr; mChernyshevskaya)

Medem International Clinic & Hospital ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-336 3333; www.medem.ru; ul Marata 6; h24hr; mMayakovskaya)

Pharmacies

Apteka Petrofarm ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-571 3767; www.petropharm6.webapteka.ru; Nevsky pr 22-24; h24hr)

A chain of 24-hour pharmacies called 36.6 Pharmacy (www.366.ru) has many branches around the city, including in the Historic Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-324 2666; Gorokhovaya ul 16; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat & Sun; mAdmiralteyskaya). Other convenient pharmacies include Raduga, with branches in the Petrograd Side (Радуга MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bolshoy pr 62; h9am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; mPetrogradskaya) and Smolny ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-275 8189; Nevsky pr 98; h24hr; mMayakovskaya).

Money

ATMs are everywhere and debit and credit cards are accepted in most places. Still, it's always a good idea to carry some cash.

Post

To send parcels home, head to the elegant main post office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Pochtamtskaya ul 9; mAdmiralteyskaya). Smaller post offices may refuse to send parcels internationally; most importantly, your package is more likely to reach its destination if you send it from the main post office. You will need to provide a return address in St Petersburg – your hotel name will be fine.

Toilets

Around nearly all metro stations and tourist attractions there’s at least one blue Portakabin-type toilet staffed by an attendant who will charge you around R35 for the honour of using it. There are also pay toilets in all main-line train stations and free ones in museums. As a general rule, it’s far better to stop for a drink in a cafe or duck into a fancy hotel and use their cleaner facilities.

Tourist Information

Tourist information is halfway decent in St Petersburg. In addition to the Tourist Information Bureau's main office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-303 0555, 812-242 3909; http://eng.ispb.info; Sadovaya ul 14/52; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat; mGostiny Dvor), just off Nevsky pr in the Historic Heart, there is an office in Smolny ( GOOGLE MAP ; pl Vosstaniya; h10am-7pm; mPloshchad Vosstaniya), and kiosks at Palace Square ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-931-326 5744; Dvortsovaya pl; h10am-7pm; mAdmiralteyskaya), St Isaac's Cathedral ( GOOGLE MAP ; Isaakievskaya pl; h10am-7pm; mAdmiralteyskaya) and Pulkovo Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-8pm).

Travel Agencies

Ost-West ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-327 3416; www.ostwest.com; office 306, ul Vosstaniya 7; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

Travel Russia ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-407 2015; www.travelrussia.su; Office 206, Suvorovsky pr 2b; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri; mPloshchad Vosstaniya)

8Getting There & Away

Air

Most travellers arrive in St Petersburg at Pulkovo International Airport (LED; GOOGLE MAP ; %812-337 3822; www.pulkovoairport.ru; Pulkovskoye sh), 23km south of the city. This terminal building, which opened in 2014, and is confusingly still referred to as Terminal 1, handles all domestic and international flights and is St Petersburg's only airport.

Boat

Cruise ships dock at one of the following:

Marine Facade Terminal (Пассажирский Порт Санкт-Петербург Морской Фасад GOOGLE MAP ; %812-303 6740; www.portspb.ru; 1 Bereg Nevskoy gubi; mPrimorskaya)

Sea Port (Морской вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %812-337 2060; www.mvokzal.ru; pl Morskoy Slavy 1)

English Embankment Passenger Terminal ( GOOGLE MAP )

Lieutenant Schmidt Passenger Terminal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

St Petersburg Sea Port (Морской порт Санкт-Петербурга GOOGLE MAP ; www.seaport.spb.ru; Mezhevoy kanal 5)

River Passenger Terminal (Речной вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %812-262 6321, 812-262 0239; Obukhovskoy Oborony pr 195; mProletarskaya)

You can buy ferry tickets for nearly all boats at the Ferry Centre (Паромный центр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-327 3377; www.paromy.ru; ul Vosstaniya 19; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri; mPloshchad Vosstaniya), a short walk from the Moscow Station. Alternatively, it’s possible to buy ferry tickets in the Sea Port, as well as online through the ferry companies themselves.

Bus

St Petersburg’s main bus station, Avtovokzal (Автобусный вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %812-766 5777; www.avokzal.ru; nab Obvodnogo kanala 36; mObvodny Kanal), has bus connections to cities all over western Russia, including Veliky Novgorod, but most travellers won’t use it. If you do happen to arrive here, it’s a short walk along the canal to the metro station Obvodny Kanal (Line 5).

Lux Express ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-441 3757; www.luxexpress.eu; nab Obvodnogo kanala 36; h9am-9pm; mBaltiyskaya) runs buses from both Avtovokzal and from outside the Baltic Station (Baltiysky vokzal). Its buses run to Tallinn (from R1950, seven daily, seven hours), Rīga (from R2275, four daily, 11 hours) and Helsinki (from R1650, three daily, 7½ hours).

Ecolines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-409 9410; www.ecolines.ru; Podezdny per 3; h8am-10pm; mPushkinskaya) runs daily buses from the Vitebsk Station to Tallinn (R1210, five daily, seven hours), Rīga (R2240, four daily, 11 hours), Minsk (R2130, three daily, 14 hours), Prague (R6130, two to three daily, 36 to 38 hours) and Berlin (R6840, two to three daily, 34 hours).

Transgold (%812-995 0605; www.transgold.ru) runs door-to-door marshrutky (minibuses) to and from Helsinki and other destinations in Finland from R1300.

Car & Motorcycle

The most convenient border crossing from Estonia when driving to St Petersburg is Narva. You can avoid queues by booking a time slot for your crossing from (but not into) Estonia for a small fee at www.estonianborder.eu.

Heading to the city from Finland, highways cross the Finnish border posts of Nuijamaa and Vaalimaa (Brusnichnoe and Torfyanovka, respectively, on the Russian side).

Train

Buying train tickets in person can be done at any train station (even at a different terminus from where your train departs), although waiting time can be long if you buy them at a counter. Far quicker are the ticket machines, which all work in English and where you can usually pay in both cash and by credit card. Another option is the centrally located Train Tickets Centre (Кассы ЖД GOOGLE MAP ; nab kanala Griboyedova 24; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, until 6pm Sun; mGostiny Dvor), where there are also ticket machines, which makes waiting in line unnecessary.

HISTORIC RAILWAY STATIONS

As the birthplace of Russia’s railway system, it’s not surprising that St Petersburg has some grand stations. The oldest and most elegant is the Vitebsk Station (Vitebsky vokzal; Витебский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; Zagorodny pr 52; mPushkinskaya), originally built in 1837 for the tsar’s private train line to Tsarskoe Selo. The current building dates from 1904 and is partly graced with gorgeous Style Moderne interiors.

While you’re at the Moscow Station (Moskovsky vokzal; Московский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; www.moskovsky-vokzal.ru; Nevsky pr 85; mPloshchad Vosstaniya), look up at the expansive ceiling mural in the main entrance hall. There’s also a striking giant bust of Peter the Great in the hall leading to the platforms.

The Finland Station (Finlyandsky vokzal; Финляндский вокзал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Lenina 6; mPloshchad Lenina), rebuilt in the 1970s in rectilinear Soviet style, is where Lenin finally arrived in 1917 after 17 years in exile abroad. Here he gave his legendary speech from the top of an armoured car to a crowd who had heard of, but never seen the man. After fleeing a second time he again arrived here from Finland, this time disguised as a railway fireman, and the locomotive he rode in is displayed behind glass on the platform. Walk out onto the square that still bears Lenin’s name and you’ll see a marvellous statue of the man himself at the far end.

Stations

Trains from Helsinki arrive at the Finland Station. From here you can connect to anywhere in the city by metro from the Ploshchad Lenina station (Line 1) on the square outside the station.

Some trains from the Leningradskaya Oblast and those from Helsinki to Moscow stop en route in St Petersburg at the Ladoga Station (Ladozhsky vokzal; Ладожский вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; http://lvspb.ru; Zanevsky pr 73; mLadozhskaya) (Ladozhsky vokzal). It’s served by the Ladozhskaya metro station (Line 4).

If you’re arriving from Moscow, you’ll come to the Moscow Station (Moskovsky vokzal), in the centre of the city. There are two metro stations close by: pl Vosstaniya (Line 1) and Mayakovskaya (Line 3). To get here (you can enter both stations through one building) turn left outside the main entrance to the Moscow Station, and the exit is on one side of the building on Ligovsky pr.

Moscow

There are about 10 overnight trains travelling between St Petersburg and Moscow. Most depart between 10pm and 1am, arriving in the capital the following morning between 6am and 8am. On the more comfortable firmeny trains, such as the Red Arrow (Красная стрела) or Grand Express (ГРАНД ЭКСПРЕСС) a de-luxe sleeping carriage is between R12,800 and R16,400, 1st-class compartment (two-person cabin) around R16,300, while a 2nd-class kupe (four-person cabin) is R2800. Less fancy trains offer 3rd-class platzkartny (dorm-style sleeping carriages) for R1570 and even sitting-only carriages for R890.

Sapsan high-speed trains travel at 200km/h to reach Moscow in around four hours. There are six to eight daily departures. Comfortable 2nd-class seats start at R1300, while super-spacious 1st-class seats run from R5000.

Elsewhere in Russia

St Petersburg has excellent connections to the rest of European Russia, with daily trains to Murmansk, Petrozavodsk, Kaliningrad, Nizhny Novgorod, Novgorod, Pskov and Yekaterinburg. Less frequent services connect the city to Arkhangelsk and Kazan. Southern Russia and Siberia are generally reached via Moscow, although there are some direct trains to the Black Sea coast from St Petersburg. However, be aware that these cut through Belarus, necessitating a transit visa for Belarus and a double entry visa.

Finland & Other International Destinations

From Helsinki there are four daily Allegro express trains that take you from the Finnish capital to St Petersburg in an impressive 3½ hours; see www.vr.fi for prices and timetables. Services in both directions stop at Vyborg.

St Petersburg is well connected by train to lots of cities throughout Eastern Europe, including Berlin, Budapest, Kaliningrad, Kyiv, Prague and Warsaw, but all trains pass through Belarus, for which you’re required to hold a transit visa. The train to Smolensk in Russia also passes through Belarus.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

An official taxi to the centre should cost between R800 and R1000; if you book one via an app, it's likely to be R700. Alternatively, take bus 39 (35 minutes) or 39A (20 minutes) to Moskovskaya metro station for R35, then take the metro from Moskovskaya (Line 2) all over the city for R45.

Bicycle

Despite the local traffic being still in the learning stages about basic respect for cyclists, this is a great way to get around this huge and flat city.

Some youth hostels and bike shops, such as Rentbike ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-981 0155; www.rentbike.org; Naberezhnaya fontanki 77; per hr/day from R100/500; h10am-10pm; mSennaya Ploshchad) and Skladnye Velosipedy (Складные Велосипеды MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-748 1407; www.shulzbikes.ru; Goncharnaya ul 20; bike hire per day/24 hr R700/1000; h11am-9pm), hire bikes for as little as R500 per day.

If you're keen to do a lot of cycling, bring a helmet, bike lights and a good lock from home, as these are hard to come by.

Velogorod (%812-648 2100; http://spb.velogorod.org; ride/day pass R45/129) is a handy bike-sharing system with 56 stations across the city. You'll need to use the website or download the app to hire one of their bicycles.

Bus, Marshrutka, Trolleybus & Tram

Buses and, particularly marshrutky (minibuses), are a very handy way to get around the city and they tend to cover routes that the metro doesn’t, making them essential for certain parts of town. Most travellers find taking them a bit daunting, however, as there’s little signage in English. On both buses and trolleybuses, you get on and then pay a conductor; the fare is R40. Marshrutky rates are usually posted on the inside of the bus near the driver.

Increasingly rare, trams are still useful in areas such as Kolomna and Vasilyevsky Island where there is little else available.

Useful routes include:

Tram 6 Great for travelling between areas north of the river without going through the centre: connects Vasilyevsky Island with the Petrograd Side and the Vyborg Side.

Trolleybus 7 Goes from Smolny along Nevsky pr, over the river, along the Strelka and to the Petrograd Side.

Car

You can hire cars from the major international agencies such as Avis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-600 1213; www.avisrussia.ru; pl Alexandra Nevskogo 2; h9am-9pm; mpl Alexandra Nevskogo) and Hertz ( GOOGLE MAP ; %812-454 7099; www.hertz.ru; Pulkovskoe sh 41) as well as local operations to get around the city and further afield.

For something a little different, you can rent vintage cars, including retro Soviet models such as Chaikas and Volgas, from Retro v Mode (Ретро в моде MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %812-927 1837; www.retrovmode.ru; office 16, Korpus 6, Ligovsky pr 50; h10am-1pm & 2-8pm). Rates start around R1500 per hour and they can also arrange drivers.

Metro

The St Petersburg Metro (%8-800- 350 1155; www.metro.spb.ru; h6am-12.45am) is a very efficient five-line system. The network of some 70 stations is most usefully employed for travelling long distances, especially connecting the suburbs to the city centre. New stations are being added and it's possible that the one at Teatralnaya, next to the Mariinsky Theatre, will be operational by 2020.

Look for signs with a big blue ‘M’ signifying the entrance to the metro. The flat fare for a trip is R45; you will have to buy an additional ticket if you are carrying a significant amount of baggage. If you wish to buy a single journey, ask for ‘adin proyezd’ and you will be given a zheton (token) to put in the machine.

If you are staying more than a day or two, however, it’s worth buying a smart card (R60), which is good for multiple journeys to be used over the course of a fixed time period – for example, 10 trips in seven days for R355. Their main advantage is that you won’t have to line up to buy tickets – the ticket counters can have very long lines during peak hours.

The metro system is fully signed in English, so it’s quite easy to use, even for first-timers in Russia.

Taxi

Taxi apps, such as Gett and Yandex Taxi, are all the rage in St Petersburg and they've brought down the prices of taxis in general, while improving the service a great deal.

Aside from the apps, the best way to get a taxi is to order it by phone. Operators will usually not speak English, so unless you speak Russian, ask your hotel reception to call a taxi for you. It also remains possible to flag down a random car in the street and negotiate the price, keeping in mind all security caveats.

Peterburgskoe Taksi 068 (%812-324 7777, in St Petersburg 068; www.taxi068.ru)

Taxi-4 (%812-333 4333; www.taxi-4.ru)

Taxi Blues (Такси-Блюз %812-321 8888; www.taxiblues.ru)

Taxi 6000000 (%812-600 0000; http://6-000-000.ru) Has operators and drivers who speak English.

RAISING THE BRIDGES

From mid-April until late November major bridges across the Neva rise roughly between 1.30am and 5am to allow ships to sail through the city. Check the timetable at www.razvodka-mostov.ru (in Russian only). Because of the new fixed suspension bridges on the Western High Speed Diameter highway across the mouth of the Neva you will not be stuck either side of the river when the bridges go up. Note also that between May and the end of November the M5 metro line shuttles every 20 minutes back and forth between Admiralteyskaya and Sportivnaya stations between 1am and 3am on Saturday and Sunday and the eve of public holidays, creating an easy way to get between the islands and the Historic Heart.