North & West of Moscow

Smolensk Смоленск

%4812 / Population 326,861 / Time Moscow

Set on the upper Dnepr River, this grand city offers 16th-century fortress walls and towers to explore, excellent architecture, onion-dome churches and well-landscaped parks. The highlight is the magnificent Assumption Cathedral sitting pretty on the hill, but art and music are also well represented in the hometown of composer Mikhail Glinka and 19th-century arts patron Princess Maria Tenisheva, whose estate of Flyonovo makes for an interesting side trip.

History

Smolensk was first mentioned in 863 as the capital of the Slavic Krivichi tribe. The town’s auspicious setting gave it early control over trade routes between Moscow and the west, and between the Baltic and Black Seas. By the late 1100s, Smolensk was one of the strongest principalities in Eastern Europe.

As Muscovy and Lithuania vied for power in the 13th century, Smolensk was caught in the middle and was successively invaded from both sides. The battle between Russia and Napoleon’s army outside Smolensk in 1812 (later immortalised in Tolstoy’s War and Peace) is commemorated by a couple of monuments in town. Composer Mikhail Glinka, regarded as the founder of Russian classical music, grew up near Smolensk and performed frequently in the Nobles’ Hall, facing what is now the Glinka Garden.

Almost 95% of Smolensk was destroyed in WWII, but was quickly rebuilt, often along original plans. It was later awarded the rare status of Hero City (город-герой).

Smolensk

1Top Sights

1Art GalleryB6

2Assumption CathedralD3

1Sights

3Dom KnigiD5

4Eternal Flame MemorialB6

5Fortress Walls & AroundA5

6Glinka GardenB5

7History MuseumC5

8In the World of Fairytales MuseumC5

9Konenkov Sculpture MuseumC5

10Korolevsky BastionA5

11Monument to the 1812 DefendersA5

12Monument to the Heroes of 1812C6

13Peter & Paul ChurchA2

14Smolensk Flax MuseumD6

15Smolensk WWII MuseumC6

16Thunder TowerB6

17Trinity MonasteryD4

4Sleeping

18Felix HostelA6

19Mini Hotel Na AvtovokzaleA2

20Respect HotelC4

21SmolenskhotelC5

22UsadbaB3

5Eating

23DominoA6

24Russkiy DvorB5

25Saint JacquesA6

26SamovarC5

27TemnitsaC3

28TirolD6

6Drinking & Nightlife

29Dvoinoe SolntseD6

30Hagen in the BlonyeC6

3Entertainment

31Glinka Concert HallC5

7Shopping

32Smolenskaya IzbaD5

33Zadneprovsky MarketC2

8Information

Smolensk TravelC5

1Sights

Information on many of Smolensk's galleries and museums can be found at www.smolensk-museum.ru (in Russian).

oAssumption CathedralCATHEDRAL

(Успенский кафедральный собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sobornaya Gora 5; h7am-8pm)

Dominating the skyline is this huge green-and-white working cathedral topped by five silver domes. A church has stood here since 1101; this one was built in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. Even more splendid within, its spectacular gilded and icon-encrusted interior so impressed Napoleon that, according to legend, he set a guard to stop his own men from vandalising the cathedral.

Immediately on your left as you enter, look for a small framed icon of the Virgin, richly encrusted with pearls drawn from the Dnepr around Smolensk. Further on, a cluster of candles marks a supposedly wonder-working icon of the Virgin. This is a 16th-century copy of the original, said to be by St Luke, which had been on this site since 1103 and was stolen in 1923.

oArt GalleryGALLERY

(Художественная галерея MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-381 591; ul Kommunisticheskaya 4; R120; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sun, 11am-7pm Thu & Sat)

Housed in a beautiful building with wrought-iron staircases, this splendid collection includes pieces by luminaries such as Valentin Serov, Ilya Repin and Vasily Tropinin, as well as a good sampling of socialist realism, 14th-to-18th-century icons and European old masters. You’ll also find portraits of Princess Maria Tenisheva, who created the Flyonovo estate outside town. There are some English captions throughout.

Smolensk WWII MuseumMUSEUM

(Смоленщина в годы Великой Отечественной войны 1941-1945 гг MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-383 119; ul Dzerzhinskogo 4a; adult/child R120/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed last Tue of the month)

This comprehensive museum covers WWII in the Smolensk area from the beginning of the war and occupation by the Nazis to the region's liberation. Displays (captions in Russian) include weaponry, military uniforms, medals and original photos and documents, and there is a bunker diorama titled Birth of the Soviet Guard. Outside is a large collection of tanks, canons and aircraft that kids will delight in climbing on, as well as a trench bunker you can walk through.

History MuseumMUSEUM

(Исторический музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-383 862; ul Lenina 8; adult/child R100/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 5pm Fri)

This gorgeous mustard-coloured building is home to a range of different galleries over two floors, covering natural and local history. Displays include medieval knight armory, a 26kg gold-plated bible and a wooly mammoth skeleton from Siberia (the tusks are a replica).

Fortress Walls & AroundHISTORIC SITE

(Крепостные стены и вокруг MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Making a circuit of the restored city walls, long sections of which boast fine towers reminiscent of the Moscow Kremlin, is a pleasant way to pass a warm summer evening, with parks, various monuments and churches to be encountered along the way. Originally built between 1596 and 1602, the impressive 6.5km-long, 5.5m-thick, 15m-high walls had 38 towers, with 17 still standing.

Overlooking the Spartak Stadium, just outside the line of the walls on the west side of Lopatinsky Gardens, the Korolevsky Bastion (Королевский бастион MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is a high earth rampart built by the Poles who captured Smolensk in 1611. It saw heavy fighting in 1654 and 1812.

Backing onto a longish southwest stretch of the walls, the Lopatinsky Gardens have the 26m-high cast-iron Monument to the 1812 Defenders (Памятник защитникам Смоленска 1812 г MAP GOOGLE MAP ). At the foot of the walls southeast of Glinka Garden you’ll find an eternal flame memorial (Мемориал Вечный огонь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lopatisnky Gardens), plus another monument to the heroes of 1812 (Памятник героям 1812 г MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The nearby, witch-hatted Thunder Tower (Громовая башня MAP GOOGLE MAP ) offers city views and a small museum.

Glinka GardenPARK

(Городской сад Глинки MAP GOOGLE MAP )

At the east end of this shady garden with fountains, an 1885 statue of the composer Glinka is surrounded by a fence with excerpts from his opera A Life for the Tsar wrought into the iron. Opposite is the concert hall in which he performed. The north side of the garden is bordered by the expansive pl Lenina, where a statue of Vladimir Ilyich himself stands in front of the palatial city hall, once the House of Soviets.

Smolensk Flax MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Смоленский лён MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nicholas Tower, ul Marshala Zhukova 6; R80; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 5pm Fri)

Flax production developed from the Middle Ages as one of Smolensk’s main industries, as the moderate climate sustained soil ideal for growing the plant. Exhibits here will give you some idea of how the process works (though no English captions) and of the lovely products and traditional clothing that can be made from the resulting cloth.

Trinity MonasteryMONASTERY

(Свято-Троицкий женский монастырь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Bolshaya Sovetskaya 9)

Much restoration work has been done on this charming, pink-walled convent, which also runs a small orphanage for girls. Donations are welcome.

Konenkov Sculpture MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей скульптуры Коненкова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-382 029; ul Mayakovskogo 7; R80; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, to 5pm Fri)

Contains playful woodworks by Smolensk Oblast native Sergei Konenkov, otherwise known as the 'Russian Rodin'. The museum also has works by other noted Smolensk artists.

Dom KnigiARCHITECTURE

(Дом Книги MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Bolshaya Sovetskaya 12/1; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sun)

This bookshop only sells Russian-language titles, but if you don't read Russian it's still a worthwhile stop to admire the beautiful blue baroque building.

Peter & Paul ChurchCHURCH

(Церковь Петра и Павла MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kashena 20)

With obvious Byzantine influences, this red-brick 12th-century chapel (1146) is the oldest in the city and a local icon.

In the World of Fairytales MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей В мире сказки MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-382 226; ul Lenina 15; adult/child R50/20; h10am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 5pm Fri; c)

One for the kids, where they've smashed the boring don't-touch rules. It's a small creative space with activities and interactive exhibits based on Russian fairy tales. Even scary-looking Baba Yaga is there. It has some great little wooden toys for sale.

WORTH A TRIP

FLYONOVO ФЛЁНОВО

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, illustrious artists and musicians, including Stravinsky, Chaliapin, Vrubel and Serov, visited Flyonovo, the pretty riverside estate of art lover Princess Maria Tenisheva, near Talashkino, 18km southeast of Smolensk. The visitors joined in applied-art workshops, which the princess organised for her peasants, and helped in building projects. The most striking result is the almost psychedelic decoration on the exterior of the brick Holy Spirit Church (Церковь Святого Духа), particularly the mural of Christ over the entrance, designed by well-known landscape painter Rerikh.

On the estate grounds is the ornately decorative wooden house Teremok (Изба Теремок GOOGLE MAP ; R80; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun, closed last Thu of the month), with its folk-art museum, while the interior of another large but simpler wooden building is the former arts school. The first headmaster of the school was SV Malutin, the inventor of the beloved matryoshka (nesting dolls). A smaller building (R80) sells crafts still produced here.

Take marshrutka 104 from Smolensk’s bus station to Talashkino (R28, 20 minutes), from where it’s a pleasant 2km walk to the estate. You can hop on the same marshrutka at pl Smirnova. The 130 often goes direct from Smolensk: ask at the station. It's possible to get a taxi from Smolensk for around R370 one-way and ask the driver to wait for the return.

zFestivals & Events

Glinka FestivalMUSIC

(hMay-Jun)

A showcase of Russian classical music that runs between the last week of May and the first week of June. It takes place in venues across town.

Shooting Stars Fireworks FestivalFIREWORKS

(hJul)

Smolensk's skies erupt every July with artfully choreographed fireworks set to classical and live music.

4Sleeping

Felix HostelHOSTEL$

(Феликс Хостел MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-904-360 0032; www.felix-hotel.ru; ul Dzerzhinskogo 19; dm/d R500/1000; W)

Moments from some of the city's top attractions and across from Lopatinsky Gardens, Felix Hostel is small and nothing flash, but a great find. Dorms are clean and cheerful with solid bunks, TVs, lockers and shared bathrooms. There is a good communal kitchen and a couple of private double rooms. The manager speaks English.

There's no sign so it's tough to find; call before arriving as there's not always someone at reception.

Mini Hotel Na AvtovokzaleHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-633 202; ul Kashena 13; dm/s/d with shared bathroom R500/800/1600)

A surprisingly decent budget option, given it's at the bus station, this clean and functional hostel offers spacious, spick-and-span dorms. Private rooms are adequate for a night or two, and perfect for late arrivals coming via overnight bus or train. Management can be a little vague, however.

oRespect HotelHOTEL$$

(Отель Респект MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-382 138; www.respect67.ru; ul Parizhskoy Komunny, 18; s/d incl breakfast from R2200/2500; aW)

In a great location between the Assumption Cathedral and the city centre, this cosy hotel deserves some respect for its spacious, modern and sparkling clean rooms. Some rooms also overlook the peaceful garden, but walls are on the thin side so some neighbouring murmurings might be heard. Breakfast is served in the ground-floor cafe. Wi-fi can be patchy.

SmolenskhotelHOTEL$$

(Гостиница MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-383 604; www.smolensk-hotel.ru; ul Lenina 2/1; s/d/studios incl breakfast R2970/3990/5980; W)

Set on the edge of Glinka Garden, this centrally located five-storey hotel is Soviet era meets old-world charm in the lobby. It has basic rooms, decked out in a lot of brown, with TV and fridge. Service is professional and efficient. Discounts are available for longer stays and groups.

oUsadbaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(Усадьба MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-385 936; www.smolhotel.ru; ul Bakunina 2b; r incl breakfast R4000-10,000; aW)

In a quiet residential area that’s still close to the city centre, this cute boutique hotel offers 22 comfortable rooms with good facilities (room 5 has cathedral views). There’s an attached restaurant, where breakfast and other meals are served, as well as a DVD library, pool and small traditional wooden sauna (R800 per hour before 4pm, R1000 per hour after 4pm).

5Eating

Russkiy DvorRUSSIAN$

(Русский Двор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pizzadomino.ru/Russkiy_Dvor; Glinka Garden; mains R80-200; h10am-11pm; c)

This place looks like a cross between St Basil’s Cathedral and McDonald’s inside. It's fast food, but the quality is surprisingly high, which may explain the long queues at lunchtime.

SamovarRUSSIAN$

(Самовар MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 14; pies from R90; h10am-10pm; W)

Perfect for a lunch break along ul Lenina, Samovar is an appealing self-serve restaurant specialising in traditional savoury and sweet pies. Sit up front and people-watch through the big windows or opt for the terrace in warmer weather.

DominoEUROPEAN$

(Домино MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pizzadomino.ru; ul Dzerzhinskogo 16; pizza from R80, mains R70-200; h24hr)

Kitsch! Glorious kitsch! Even if peasant-on-acid decor isn't your thing, you'll still enjoy the fast-food offerings from this chain. The front and side patios that open in summer are good for a drink. There are several Dominoes across town.

oTirolRUSSIAN$$

(Тироль MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-385 851; ul Marshala Zhukova 9; mains R250-750; hnoon-1am; W)

You won't want to leave this charming, snug little den, done up like a babushka's house with old-style wallpaper, stuffed animals, figurine lamps and knickknacks. There's a hearty, soul-warming menu to match, featuring sausages and some delicious creamy soups.

TemnitsaRUSSIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-244 999; www.temnitsa.ru; ul Studencheskaya 4; mains R490-1250)

Set in the old castle walls, this charming restaurant has plenty of character, with stained-glass windows, a tiny fireplace, exposed-brick walls and lovely views of the Dnepr from its balcony. The menu features well-prepared traditional Russian dishes.

Saint JacquesFUSION$$

(Сен-Жак MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-242 444; www.san-jak.ru; Churilovskiy per 19; mains R320-1100; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

Saint Jacques adds some ooh la la to the Smolensk dining scene. The St Petersburg chef doffs his beret ever so slightly to France with upmarket bouillabaisse and sturgeon steak with beurre blanc. There's also salmon ravioli, black fish burgers and goulash. Service is outstanding.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Hagen in the BlonyeBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-387 612; http://hagen-blonie.ru; ul Kommunisticheskaya 6; h10am-11pm; W)

Dark-wood booths, plaid wallpaper and stained glass give this brewery bar-restaurant an inviting British gastropub feel. They brew their own German-style beer on-site and offer tasting paddles (four beers R100). The tea selection is a standout here, including an authentic masala chai, blooming-flower teas and alcoholic versions. Burgers, pizza and beer snacks are also available.

Dvoinoe SolntseTEAHOUSE

(Двойное Солнце MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-630 220; www.doublesun.ru; ul Barklaya-de-Tolli 7; h1pm-midnight)

Taking a stab at re-creating a traditional Japanese teahouse, this place has floor seating, screens and low tables. An excellent range of tea is on offer (cup from R135). Food is also available, including sushi, and there is a store selling tea accessories.

3Entertainment

Glinka Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Концертный зал им. М. И. Глинки Смоленской государственной филармонии MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-32 984; www.smolensk-filarmonia.ru; ul Glinki 3; tickets from R400; hbox office noon-7pm Tue-Sat, 1-6pm Sun)

Attending a concert is the best way to get a look at the reconstructed hall where Mikhail Glinka once entertained Russian nobility and launched the history of secular classical music in Russia.

7Shopping

Smolenskaya IzbaGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(Художественная мастерская гончарного искусства-Смоленская Изба MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-407 404; www.km67.ru; ul Tukhachevskogo 5; h10am-7pm)

Not only does this great little place sell souvenirs and craftwork, the likes of which you won't find elsewhere, but it allows visitors to have a go at creating their own. Pottery, painting and doll-making workshops for groups and individuals are loads of fun: book before showing up.

Zadneprovsky MarketMARKET

(Заднепровский рынок MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Kolkhoznaya; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 2pm Mon)

Pick up fresh food and ogle the bustle at Smolensk’s main market.

8Information

Smolensk Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4812-404 375; www.smolensk-travel.ru; ul Karl Marxa 12; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat) The helpful staff here can assist with buying transport tickets and booking hotels. They also arrange English guided tours of the city and day trips in the region. English is spoken.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Buses to Moscow ( GOOGLE MAP ) (from R700, six hours, nine daily) leave from outside the main train station and, less often, from the bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Dzerzhinskogo). Other services include Pskov (R790, eight hours, two daily) and St Petersburg (from R1000, 10 to 14 hours, three daily).

Train

From the train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul 12 let Oktyabrya) there are around 18 daily connections with Moscow (platskart/kupe from R977/2298, 5½ hours); trains to St Petersburg (R2215/2468, 15 hours) leave most days. International services run to Minsk, Warsaw, Prague and Vienna.

8Getting Around

From the train and bus stations, you can take the bus, tram 4 (R17) or marshrutka 41 to the centre of town. Taxis to the centre cost around R150.

Tver Тверь

%4822 / Population 408,852 / Time Moscow

On the Volga, 150km northwest of Moscow, Tver dates back to the 12th century. After a fire levelled most of the town in 1763, the architect Pyotr Nikitin replanned Tver’s centre on a three-ray system and built his patron, Catherine the Great, a ‘road palace’ to rest in on journeys between the then-Russian capital of St Petersburg and Moscow.

Picturesque 18th- and 19th-century townhouses and churches still line the main streets and riverbank, but the Soviet period was unkind to Tver. Not only was the town renamed Kalinin (after local Mikhail Kalinin, Stalin’s puppet president during WWII), the authorities tore down the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of our Saviour in 1935 (one had stood on the same spot since the late 13th century) and converted the mosque into a cafe. The latter has since been returned to the Muslim community.

Tver is a good access point for historic Torzhok and Lake Seliger.

Tver

1Sights

1City GardenB2

2Museum of Tver LifeB1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Excursion BoatsB2

4Sleeping

4Gubernator HotelB3

5Hostel KalininC3

6Hotel VolgaB4

5Eating

7La ProvinciaC3

8MamontsC3

9ManilovC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

10CitybarA2

11Kafe VremyaB1

12Mr MooseC3

7Shopping

13Beer LogicC1

1Sights & Activities

Art GalleryGALLERY

(Тверская областная картинная галерея GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-342-561; www.gallery.tver.ru; ul Dmitry Donskoy 37; R100; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun)

This gallery is usually housed in Catherine the Great's 1775 Road Palace (which is being very slowly restored), but for now you'll find the collection in a less-imposing business centre just out of the town centre. There's a bit of everything here, from folk art and furniture to 14th-century icons and some impressive Soviet-era paintings.

Museum of Tver LifeMUSEUM

(Музей тверского быта MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-528 404; ul Gorkogo 19/14; R80; h11am-5pm Wed-Sun)

This museum is split across two adjacent houses: one is set up to display the life of wealthy merchants; the other (across the street in a crumbling building, entered around the back) has more general exhibits, including a reconstruction of a typical rural wooden dwelling, plus beautiful examples of embroidery and traditional costumes.

City GardenPARK

(Городской сад MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://gorsad-tver.ru; ul Sovetskaya)

On the grounds of what once was Tver’s kremlin, this park has a fun fair (rides from R60) with a Ferris wheel and cafes, and often hosts live concerts on summer weekends. Part of the park lies on the north bank of the Volga, where a promenade provides lovely views of the old houses to the south. In summer, excursion boats (Экскурсионный причал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 45mins R250; h11am-9pm) sail from the jetty.

Church of the White TrinityCHURCH

(Церковь Белая Троица GOOGLE MAP ; pl Troitskaya)

Amid a quaint neighbourhood of old wooden houses with carved eaves and window frames, west of the market on ul Bragina, you’ll find Tver’s oldest building, a stately stone church dating from 1564 that miraculously escaped the usual fate during the Soviet years. Women should ensure their heads are covered with a scarf before entering.

4Sleeping

oHostel KalininHOSTEL$

(Хостел Калинин MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-609 060; www.kalininhostel.ru; ul Volnogo Novgoroda 19; dm from R500, d R1500; W)

Brightly painted rooms are comfortable and remarkably clean at this well-located hostel. Spacious dorms (mixed or female-only) come with lockers and individual lamps, and the fully equipped designer kitchen and common room are places you'll actually want to spend time. Reception is on hand 24/7. The entrance is tucked away at the rear, off the main street; best to call ahead.

oCherry GardenHOTEL$$

(Вишневый сад GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-752 820; http://hotel-cherrygarden.ru; ul Chekhova 30; d from R2500; aW)

What it lacks in central location, sweet Cherry Garden makes up for with everything else. Friendly staff go out of their way to help, there's a decent breakfast buffet and free wi-fi, and rooms are modern and comfortable; some have balconies and spa baths. It's a 10-minute taxi ride to the centre.

Hotel VolgaHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Волга MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-348 123; www.volga-tver.ru; ul Zhelyabova 1; s/d from R3200/3800; W)

Overlooking the Tmaka River, Hotel Volga is a good choice for friendly service and comfortable, if somewhat dated, rooms. Request a river-view room and note that standard rooms have no air-conditioning. There's a restaurant on the 2nd floor.

Gubernator HotelHOTEL$$

(Отель Губернаторъ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-579 909; www.gubernatorhotel.ru; ul Novotorzhskaya 15; s/d incl breakfast R3600/4000; W)

This mega-central hotel is housed in a pure-white 18th-century building. The interior is equally attractive, with spacious, squeaky-clean rooms and friendly English-speaking staff. There's no lift but there is an attached restaurant (open 7am to 11pm).

5Eating

oMamontsEUROPEAN$$

(Мамонтс MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-415 107; http://mamontsbar.com; ul Novotorzhskaya 18; mains R290-550; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)

Mamonts is an elegantly hip spot where Tver's cool kids come to dine and sip cocktails before hitting the adjoining dance floor to DJs spinning tunes. The menu spans sushi, pastas, salads and a few Russian classics done with a twist and creatively presented. Service is friendly and unpretentious.

La ProvinciaINTERNATIONAL, RUSSIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-631 031; http://laprovincia.fabulagroup.ru; bul Radishcheva 47; mains R380-730; hnoon-midnight)

Hidden away in a quiet courtyard with an outdoor terrace, La Provincia is a cosy restaurant with comfy armchairs and lace-covered lamps. The menu offers Russian dishes – borsch, smoked fish with sour cream – along with international cuisine, such as pasta carbonara, pork tenderloin and paella.

ManilovRUSSIAN$$

(Манилов MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-476 495; www.manilovkafe.ru; ul Sovetskaya 17; meals R130-400; h10am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 11pm Sat & Sun)

Step into a 19th-century-style parlour at this sweet restaurant with its entrance on Studenchesky per. Dig into traditional favourites such as borsch, vareniki (boiled dumplings) and chicken kiev, mop them up with homemade bread and sample the horseradish-flavoured spirit. Set lunches are available weekdays from noon to 3pm for R200.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Red PandaCRAFT BEER

(Красная Панда GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-360 028; ul Sklizkova 44; h4pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W)

It might be a fair hike south from the town centre, but Red Panda is a great basement craft-beer bar with tasty food and a welcoming atmosphere. Ten Russian craft beers are on tap (0.5L from R180) plus there's good music, board games, pub grub, and indie films shown on Sunday nights.

A taxi from the centre should cost around R180.

Mr MooseCRAFT BEER

(Мистер Лось MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-570 078; bul Radishcheva 33; hnoon-10pm)

A tiny drink-in or takeaway craft-beer shop with around 15 Russian beers on tap (from R270) and a small selection of bottled beers. It's tucked away off the main street.

CitybarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sovetskaya 14; h8am-late Mon-Thu & Sun, to 6am Fri & Sat)

With a ground-floor summer terrace and a mix of rooms and nooks on the second floor, this bar offers something for all tastes. Grab a velvet bar stool under the chandeliers and sip cocktails or opt for karaoke or catching a live band. DJs spin tunes on Friday and Saturday nights. Pizzas (R340 to R400) are available.

Kafe VremyaCAFE

(Кафе Время MAP GOOGLE MAP ; nab Afanasiya Nikitina 36; h2-11pm Mon-Thu, noon-midnight Fri-Sun)

Set on the Volga River (opposite City Garden's Ferris wheel on the other side of the river) the popular Kafe Vremya (Cafe Time) is a great spot for a leisurely coffee and cake break, or a cold beer in summer, at the riverside outdoor tables. They also do meals.

7Shopping

Beer LogicFOOD & DRINKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-920-183 2451; https://vk.com/beerlogic; nab Afanasiya Nikitina 24; h3-10pm Mon, from noon Tue-Sun)

Pop into this small takeaway shop by the river to get a plastic bottle filled with your choice of a range of Russian craft beer on tap (1L from R180). It also has a selection of bottled beers from around the globe. Though the riverside tempts, note that public drinking is not permitted.

8Getting There & Away

The train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kominterna) is 4km south of the centre, with the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kominterna) 400m to its east. Cruise ships and other long-distance riverboats dock at the river station (Речной вокзал GOOGLE MAP ) on the north shore of the Volga.

Elektrichki (R370, three hours) stopping at Tver leave roughly every two hours from Moscow’s Leningradsky station. Long-distance trains between Moscow and St Petersburg and between Moscow and Pskov also pause at Tver.

There are also buses (R456, three hours) to/from Moscow’s Yaroslavsky and Leningradsky stations.

8Getting Around

Tram 5 and marshrutky 3, 22 and 4 (R20) run from the bus and train stations up pr Chaykovskogo and pr Tverskoy to the town centre.

Torzhok Торжок

%4822 / Population 46, 700 / Time Moscow

Hugging the Tvertsa River, the church spire and domed skyline of Torzhok (Торжок) seems straight out of a Russian fairy tale. An easy day trip from Tver, or a pit stop en route to Ostashkov, Torzhok was once on the main road from St Petersburg to Moscow. Pushkin passed through several times on his travels.

1Sights

All-Russian Museum of History and EthnographyMUSEUM

(Всероссийский историко-этнографический музей GOOGLE MAP ; www.viemusei.ru; ul Bakunina 6; adult/student R150/100; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)

Worthwhile museum covering the history of the region with some great dioramas of a living room and a picnic in a forest. Other displays include frescoes, religious relics and archaeological finds from the Upper Volga region.

Borisoglebsky MonasteryMONASTERY

(Борисоглебский мужской монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; ul Staritskaya 7; bell tower R100, museum R50-150, grounds free; h10am-6pm)

The oldest monastery complex in Tver Oblast still bustles with religious activity; visitors and pilgrims are welcome. The adjoining museum has exhibits on the history of the monastery and Torzhok. You can climb to the top of the bell tower in summer for fine views of the city.

Archangel MichaelCHURCH

(Михайло-Архангельский храм GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun)

Perched on a hill near the Borisoglebsky Monastery, this sky-blue-domed beauty has a stunningly decorated interior.

AS Pushkin MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Пушкина GOOGLE MAP ; ul Dzerzhinskogo 71; R80; h11am-5pm Wed-Sun)

Housed in a grey-painted 18th-century wooden building, this museum contains various exhibits relating to Russia's ubiquitous Pushkin. On display you'll find antique furniture, clothing, books, doodles by the great man himself that evoke local 19th-century scenes, and replica drafts of his poems.

Goldwork Embroidery Museum and FactoryMUSEUM

(Музей фабрикиТоржокские золотошвеи GOOGLE MAP ; www.zolotoshveya.com; Kalinin sh 12; adult/child R80/20; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)

Torzhok is famous for its stunning gold-wire embroidery, found in artwork, insignia and royal clothing. There are exquisite displays at this museum, including Russian fashion over the years and embroidery of Stalin and the USSR; the attached shop sells superb crafts and clothing made on the premises.

4Sleeping & Eating

Onix HotelHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-614 141; www.onix-hotels.ru/torzhok; ul Mednikovykh 4; s/d incl breakfast from R2000/2450; aW)

A short walk from the Borisoglebsky Monastery stands this welcoming hotel in a cream 18th-century building with neat and comfortable rooms. The helpful staff speak some English and there is a small exhibition in the lobby of archaeological artifacts found on the site. The attached restaurant ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4822-614 141; www.onix-hotels.ru/torzhok; ul Mednikovykh 4; mains R250-650; h8am-11pm) is a great spot for a meal.

Lira CafeCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Dzerzhinskog 73; meals from R100; h10am-8pm; W)

Lira is set in a lovely riverside park right by the Pushkin Museum, with white garden furniture scattered around in front. Light meals and snacks are on offer – it's known for its Pozharsky cutlet – along with the usual tea and coffee.

8Getting There & Away

Buses connect Torzhok with Tver (R150, 1¾ hours, three to four per hour), as well as with Ostashkov.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

OSTASHKOV & LAKE SELIGER ОСТАШКОВ И ОЗЕРО СЕЛИГЕР

Ostashkov, 199km west of Tver, is the main base for exploring the lakes, waterways and islands around Lake Seliger. The resort town, sitting on a peninsula at the southern end of the lake, is a jumble of tumbledown wooden cottages, decaying Soviet-era apartment blocks and artfully crumbling churches, some of which are under repair.

The lake itself is delightful, best appreciated on a boat excursion ( GOOGLE MAP ; %48235-51 568; www.seligerkruiz.ru; Leninsky pr 41; 3-5hr cruises adult/child from R700/400; hJun-Sep). Alternatively, relax by wandering along the town’s promenades, lounging on the beaches, swimming in Seliger’s clear, clean waters and climbing the bell tower of the handsome Trinity Cathedral, now the regional museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %48235-51 024; ul Volodarskogo 19; R50-80; h11am-5pm Wed-Sun), for a brilliant view of the surroundings.

There are several options along the lakefront with lovely views, of which Orlovskaya Dom 1 (Орловская Дом 1 GOOGLE MAP ; %8-910-830 0515; www.orlovskaja.ru; per Chaikin Bereg; r from R2000) is the standout. It’s also possible to camp at the tip of the peninsula that juts out north of Ostashkov’s monastery. Visit www.ostashkov.ru/rest for a list of options (in Russian), including lakeside cottages outside town.

Buses and minibuses (from R492, 4½ hours, 14 daily) connect Ostashkov with Tver; the buses run via Torzhok (R250, 2½ hours). Minibuses also head to and from Moscow (R730, six hours, at least three daily).

While there's a train station in Ostashkov, there are no direct trains from Moscow, so buses are your best option to get here.

Veliky Novgorod Великий Новгород

%8162 / Population 219,925 / Time Moscow

Veliky Novgorod (usually shortened to Novgorod) is a proud and beautiful city, billed as the 'Birthplace of Russia', and the most popular town in the Western European Russia region. It was here, in 862, that Prince Rurik proclaimed the modern Russian state – the Rurik dynasty went on to rule Russia for more than 750 years. The ancient settlement was a major centre for trade, literacy, democracy and the spread of Orthodoxy; its glorious Cathedral of St Sophia is the oldest church in Russia. Straddling the Volkhov River, this attractive, tourist-friendly destination is a popular weekend getaway for St Petersburg residents – to avoid the crowds, come during the week. Novgorod is also a good base for visiting Staraya Russa, Dostoevsky’s hometown.

History

Much of Novgorod’s early history is known through Norse sagas, as this was the first permanent settlement of the Varangian Norsemen who established the embryonic Russian state. By the 12th century the city was Russia’s biggest: an independent quasi-democracy whose princes were hired and fired by an assembly of citizens, and whose strong, spare style of church architecture, icon painting and down-to-earth byliny (epic folk songs) would become distinct idioms.

Spared from the Mongol Tatars, who got bogged down in the surrounding swamps, Novgorod suffered most at the hands of other Russians: Ivan III of Moscow attacked and annexed it in 1477, and Ivan the Terrible's storm-troopers razed the city and slaughtered 60,000 people in a savage pogrom. The founding of St Petersburg finished it off as a trading centre.

Veliky Novgorod

1Top Sights

1Cathedral of St SophiaB4

2Church of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour on Ilyina StreetD5

3Novgorod State United MuseumB4

4Veliky Novgorod KremlinB4

1Sights

5BelfryB4

6Cathedral of Our Lady of the SignD5

7Centre of Musical AntiquitiesD4

8Chamber of FacetsB4

9Church of St SimeonC1

10Fine Arts MuseumB4

11Hall of Military GloryA4

12Kokui TowerB4

13Kremlin Wall WalkB4

14Millennium of Russia MonumentB4

15Novgorod Regional Folk Arts CentreC1

16St Nicholas CathedralC5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

17Boat TourC4

4Sleeping

18HanzaC4

19Hostel Cruise Bolshaya YelA5

20Hotel AkronA3

21Hotel VolkhovA3

5Eating

22Cafe AsiaB2

23DerzhavnyB3

24Dom BergaD4

25KolobokD4

26Na KormeC4

27Zavod BarA3

6Drinking & Nightlife

28All ReadyA3

29PivovarovA2

30SamovarD3

3Entertainment

31Concert HallB4

7Shopping

32Na TorguC5

1Sights

There are scores of old churches and monasteries around town. The helpful tourist office can provide details of which ones are open either as museums or for services.

Kremlin

On the west bank of the Volkhov River, and surrounded by a pleasant wooded park, the kremlin ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-midnight) is one of Russia’s oldest. Originally called the Detinets (and still often referred to as such), the fortification dates to the 9th century, and was rebuilt with brick in the 14th century; this still stands today. The complex is worth seeing with a guide; arrange one through the tourist office. You can walk part of the kremlin walls ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 8pm Fri-Sun) for views over the complex and the city.

Boat tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1hr tour R500; h10am-9pm May-Oct) operate from the kremlin's pier.

oCathedral of St SophiaCATHEDRAL

(Софийский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.saintsofianovg.ortox.ru; h8am-8pm, services 10am-noon daily & 6-8pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun)

This is the oldest church in Russia (finished in 1050) and one of the country's oldest stone buildings. It's the kremlin's focal point and you couldn't miss it if you tried – its golden dome positively glows. St Sophia houses many icons dating from the 14th century, but none are as important as that of Novgorod's patron saint, Our Lady of the Sign, which, the story goes, miraculously saved the city from destruction in 1170 after being struck by an arrow.

oNovgorod State United MuseumMUSEUM

(Новгородский государственный объединенный музей-заповедник MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.novgorodmuseum.ru; Kremlin 11; adult/student R200/150; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon, closed last Thu of the month)

Within the kremlin walls is this must-see museum that houses three strikingly comprehensive exhibitions covering the history of Veliky Novgorod, Russian woodcarving and Russian icons. The latter contains one of the world's largest collections of icons, with around 260 pieces placed in chronological order, allowing you to appreciate the progression of skills and techniques through the centuries. The English audio guide (R200) is recommended if you want to get the most out of a visit.

Downstairs in the history section (with minimal English signage), birch-bark manuscripts are displayed, some of them 800 years old. The letters, documents and drawings by people of all ages and social classes indicate that literacy was widespread in medieval Novgorod.

The woodcarving exhibits include everything from the mundane (kitchen utensils and furniture) to more elaborate religious objects.

Millennium of Russia MonumentMONUMENT

(Памятник Тысячелетию России MAP GOOGLE MAP )

This gargantuan 16m-high, 100-tonne sculpture was unveiled in 1862 on the 1000th anniversary of the Varangian Prince Rurik’s arrival, a moment heralded as the start of Russian history. It depicts 127 figures captured in heavy bronze, including rulers, statesmen, artists, scholars and a few fortunate hangers-on.

The women at the top are Mother Russia and the Russian Orthodox Church. Around the middle, clockwise from the south, are Rurik, Prince Vladimir of Kyiv (who introduced Christianity), tsars Mikhail Romanov, Peter the Great and Ivan III, and Dmitry Donskoy trampling a Mongol Tatar. In the bottom band on the east side are nobles and rulers, including Catherine the Great with an armload of laurels for all her lovers. Alexander Nevsky and other military heroes are on the north side, and literary and artistic figures are on the west.

BelfryNOTABLE BUILDING

(Звонница Софийского собора MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child R200/150; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Thu-Tue Apr-Oct)

The belfry, with its enormous steel bells, has a small bell museum and an observation platform providing good photo opps of the Cathedral of St Sophia on one side and fine views across the beach and river on the other. You can combine a visit with the kremlin wall walk (combo ticket adult/child R300/150), though views are arguably good enough from the belfry.

Kokui TowerNOTABLE BUILDING

(Башня Кокуй MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R200/150; hnoon-2.30pm & 3.30-8pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun Jun-Oct, closed last Wed of the month)

The 41m-tall Kokui Tower was built in the 18th century, and a climb up its narrow stairs provides panoramic views across the kremlin complex and the city. It was closed indefinitely at the time of research as it was undergoing restoration.

Chamber of FacetsHISTORIC BUILDING

(Грановитая палата MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R200/150)

Part of a palace built in 1433, this Gothic chamber once housed Novgorod's Supreme Court and was the scene of many ceremonies and soirées, not all of them pleasant. Ivan the Terrible reputedly slaughtered tablefuls of noble guests right here, wrongly believing they were plotting against him. These days, you'll find religious artefacts, some fine ancient craftwork, and frescoes. The gorgeous interior, recently renovated, is worth the admission price alone.

Yaroslavl's Court

Across a footbridge from the kremlin are the photogenic remnants of the 18th-century market arcade Yaroslavl's Court (Ярославово дворище). Beyond that is the market gatehouse, an array of churches sponsored by 13th-to-16th-century merchant guilds, and a 'road palace' built in the 18th century as a rest stop for Catherine the Great.

The 12th-century Kyiv-style St Nicholas Cathedral (Собор Святого Николая MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R150/100; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, closed last Fri of the month) is all that remains of the early palace complex of the Novgorod princes, from which Yaroslav’s Court gets its name. Inside are church artefacts and temporary exhibitions of local interest. Downstairs you can see fragments from the church’s original frescoes.

.

Other Sights

oChurch of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour on Ilyina StreetCHURCH

(Церковь Преображения Господня Спасителя на улице Ильина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ilina; adult/student R180/110; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun)

This compact church is famous for housing the only surviving frescoes by legendary Byzantine painter Theophanes the Greek (1378) – they came close to extinction when the church served as a Nazi machine-gun nest. Restoration has exposed as much of the frescoes as possible, though they are still faint, and a small exhibit upstairs includes reproductions with explanations in Russian. The church closes on the last Thursday of the month and in wet weather.

Cathedral of Our Lady of the SignCATHEDRAL

(Знаменский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R150/100; h10am-5pm Thu-Mon, closed 1stThu of the month)

While the outside of this 17th-century Moscow-style complex has seen better days, the interior is festooned with frescoes painted by masters from Kostroma in the Golden Ring. The cathedral occasionally hosts choral concerts.

Centre of Musical AntiquitiesMUSEUM

(Центр музыкальных древностей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-635 019; www.centrpovetkina.ru; ul Ilina 9b; R200; h2-4pm Tue-Sun)

This small but lovingly maintained museum houses a wonderful collection of traditional folk-music instruments specific to Novgorod and around, including replicas of instruments dating back to the 10th to 15th centuries and found during excavations. The centre hosts performances on weekends. To find it, follow ul Ilina away from the river and turn left into ul Mikhaylova and first left.

Fine Arts MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей изобразительных искусств MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.artmus.natm.ru; pl Sofiykaya 2; adult/student R300/150; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, 1-9pm Thu, closed last Wed of the month)

A strong provincial collection of paintings by 18th- and 19th-century Russian artists, as well as temporary shows. The 3rd floor features Novgorod artists.

Hall of Military GloryMUSEUM

(Зал воинской славы MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Chudintseva 11/62; R70; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sat)

Novgorod boasts status as a City of Military Glory and has the museum to prove it. Wax statues and bas-reliefs tell the stories of the city's heroism from ancient Rus to modern times.

Novgorod Regional Folk Arts CentreARTS CENTRE

(Новгородский областной Дом народного творчества MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-739 626; www.dnt-folk.ru; ul Bredova-Zverinaya 14; h9am-1pm & 1.30-5.30pm)

You can participate in two-hour workshops (in Russian only) on producing Russian crafts at this arts centre on the grounds of the former 15th-century Zverin Monastery (Зверин-Покровский монастырь); book ahead at the tourist office. There's also a small craft shop on-site.

Also on the monastery grounds is the tiny Church of St Simeon (Церковь Симеона Богоприимца MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Bredova-Zverinaya; adult/student R150/100; h10am-5pm Sat-Wed, closed 1st Mon of the month). The arts centre is on the right as you approach the grounds, and the church is around the corner past the military base.

Cathedral of the Nativity of Our LadyCHURCH

(Собор Рождества Богородицы Антониева монастыря GOOGLE MAP ; ul Studencheskaya; adult/student R150/100; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun, closed 1st Wed of the month)

Legend has it that St Anthony took just three days to sail down Europe’s rivers from Italy to Novgorod on a rock in 1106. You can view the supposed boulder, which apparently has healing properties, at the entrance to this church on the grounds of the Antoniev Monastery.

WORTH A TRIP

ST GEORGE’S MONASTERY & VITOSLAVLITSY

Set amid peaceful marsh and lakelands a 15-minute bus ride south of the Veliky Novgorod town centre, these two sights make for a great excursion. Founded in 1030 by Yaroslav the Wise, the picturesque St George's Monastery (Свято-Юрьев мужской монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; www.georg.orthodoxy.ru; h10am-8pm) functions as a theological school. It features the heavily reconstructed Cathedral of St George and a clutch of 19th-century add-ons.

About 600m up the road Vitoslavlitsy (Витославлицы GOOGLE MAP ; www.novgorodmuseum.ru; adult/student R200/150; h10am-8pm May-Aug, to 6pm Apr & Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) is an evocative open-air museum of 22 beautiful wooden peasant houses and churches, some dating back to the 16th century, and the highlight being the soaring Church of the Nativity of Our Lady (1531). What makes these buildings all the more remarkable is that they were all constructed without nails. There's a cafe on the grounds, plus a good souvenir shop and craft sellers.

Opposite Vitoslavlitsy is Yurevskoe Podvore a 16-room rustic log-cabin-style hotel. The restaurant prepares traditional Russian meals (R600 to R1000).

Catch bus 7 or 7A (R22 one way), which depart on the opposite side of the road from the tourist office.

zFestivals & Events

See www.visitnovgorod.ru for a full list of annual events.

City DayCULTURAL

Concerts, processions and fairs celebrate the city’s birthday during the second weekend in June.

Sadko FestivalCULTURAL

Held over the second weekend of June, this celebration includes both Russian and international teams performing traditional folk art, dancing and singing. There's also a craft fair.

KupalaCULTURAL

Held on the banks of Lake Ilmen in early July, this traditional St John’s Day celebration combines old pagan rites with Orthodox rituals. Events include music, dance, food and swimming in the lake.

4Sleeping

Hostel Cruise Bolshaya YelHOSTEL$

(Хостел Круиз – Большая Ель MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-772 283; www.cruisehotel.ru; ul Prusskaya 11; dm R600, d with/without private bathroom from R1500/1200; W)

If you're looking for a hostel with bells and whistles, keep moving: this ain't your typical backpacker hang-out. Instead, expect a typically Soviet-style institutional set-up, but one that remains a decent, well-priced and clean budget option with an excellent location a brief stroll from the kremlin.

oHotel VolkhovHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Волхов MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-225 500; www.hotel-volkhov.ru; ul Predtechenskaya 24; s/d incl breakfast from R2500/3700; iW)

This centrally located, modern hotel runs like a well-oiled machine, with nicely furnished rooms, pleasant English-speaking staff, laundry service and free wi-fi. A sauna (from R800) is available to guests. The breakfasts, offering a choice of Continental, Russian or 'American', are actually very good. There's an elegant 5th-floor bar-bistro overlooking the square and a buzzing lobby cafe.

HanzaHOTEL$$

(Отель Hanza MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-535 300; ul Dvortsovaya 1; d from R2500 incl breakfast; aW)

Hanza offers functional and comfortable rooms in a quiet yet central location near the river.

Hotel AkronHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Акрон MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-736 908; www.hotel-acron.ru; ul Predtechenskaya 24; s/d from R2250/2800; W)

In a handy central location close to the kremlin and the bus and train stations, the Akron offers comfortable Soviet-era rooms with modern bathroom, TV, wi-fi and mini-fridge. Service is friendly and there's an on-site cafe. Note: there is no lift.

Hotel SadkoHOTEL$$

(Садко GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-663 004; www.hotel-sadko.ru; ul Fyodorovsky Ruchey 16; s/d incl breakfast from R2200/3200; W)

Though it's in a quiet part of town, the Sadko – offering pleasant rooms with mini-fridges – is within walking distance of Novgorod's major attractions. It has an attached restaurant.

Yurevskoe PodvoreHOTEL$$

(Юрьевское Подворье GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-946 060; www.tk-podvorie.ru; Yurevskoe sh 6a; d incl breakfast from R3700; aW)

Handy for the Vitoslavlitsy museum, this rustic log-cabin-style hotel has 16 charming rooms with a few stuffed animals hanging around. The restaurant prepares traditional Russian meals (R600 to R1000).

5Eating

KolobokCAFETERIA$

(Колобок MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Bolshaya Moskovskaya 28; piroshki & pastries from R30; h8am-2pm & 2.30-8pm)

A Novgorodian institution, this Soviet throwback is no retro homage – this is the real deal, with a communal coffee tank (for the sweet-toothed only), trillion-kilojoule salads and cheap, super-fresh pastries right from the oven. The daily onslaught of students and locals gives some clue as to this place's popularity.

oZavod BarRUSSIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-683 186; www.alkon.su; ul Germana 2; mains R270-560; hnoon-midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

Attached to the Alkon Distillery, Zavod is a chic and cosy restaurant with exposed brick, an open fire and great food. Go for the homemade pelmeni filled with fish and meats, or a sweeter strawberry and cottage cheese option. Pair your meal with a tasting set of the distillery's vodka or cranberry nastoyka (liqueur; three shots from R390), which comes with a plate of vodka snacks.

oDom BergaRUSSIAN$$

(Дом Берга MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-948 838; www.domberga.ru; ul Bolshaya Moskovskaya 24; cafe/restaurant meals from R120/520; hcafe 9am-9pm, restaurant noon-midnight)

Enjoy expertly prepared Russian dishes in this 19th-century former merchant's home, with a choice between a simple cafe out the back or a fancier restaurant in front. Be sure to try the honey mead.

Na KormeRUSSIAN$$

(На Корме MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fregatflagman.ru; nab Aleksandra Nevskogo, 22/1; meals R300-1300; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

While the idea of an old merchant's ship turned restaurant on the river might seem a little kitsch, Na Korme offers great views of the kremlin dished up with Russian classics, game meat (including moose bangers and mash) and, of course, the obligatory pizza and sushi options.

DerzhavnyRUSSIAN$$

(Державный MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-773 023; ul Gazon 5/2; meals R180-550; h10am-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-2am Sat, noon-11pm Sun)

Nudging the kremlin complex, this cavernous place evokes ye olde Novgorod, with faux frescoes on the ceiling and artefacts on the walls. The menu is heavy on hearty Russian cuisine (pelmeni, bliny, soups) and includes plenty of beautifully prepared game meats; wild boar and bear feature. Derzhavny takes the slow-cooking concept very literally: be prepared to wait for your order at times.

Cafe AsiaINTERNATIONAL$$

(Кафе Азия MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-772 227; ul Yakovleva 22/1; meals R220-800; hnoon-midnight)

Japanese, Uzbek and Russian cuisine, together at last! If miso soup, chicken pilaf and Russian salad combos float your boat, this place – with a decor that's part Russian-staid, part bellydancer-a-go-go – is for you. It all comes together nicely somehow, and Asia is a popular hang-out. Business lunches (noon to 4pm weekdays) are R210, and there is a helpful picture menu.

NapoliITALIAN$$

(Наполи GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-603 095; www.napoli-restaurant.ru; ul Studencheskaya 21/43; mains R410-790, pizza 380-670; hnoon-midnight; W)

A cosy and rustic Italian restaurant, Napoli bakes its pizzas in a brick oven and serves tasty delicacies such as veal osso bucco and a risotto with porcini and truffle oil.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oSamovarCRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Fyodorovsky Ruchey 9/17; h6-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 4-11pm Sun)

Cool bohemian Samovar is a great spot to hang out, with an all-welcome atmosphere, good vinyl spinning, art on the red-painted walls and a range of Russian craft beer on tap.

PivovarovBAR

(Пивоваровъ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-607 477; ul Novoluchanskaya 26; h1pm-1am; W)

Those seeking out local experiences – combined with cheap beer – should find this tiny dive-bar set in a residential apartment block. There's a number of local lagers on tap (from R65 for 500mL), which you can drink while watching local telly. There's also a range of smoked fish, meats and nuts to snack on.

All ReadyCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-601 271; ul Lyudogoshcha 10; h11am-midnight; W)

All Ready is a bright contemporary cafe with pot plants and comfy cushioned booths. Centrally located, it's a handy spot for a coffee or cocktail break. It also does light snacks and meals (pastas, burgers, salads and so on) from R90 to R320.

3Entertainment

Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Концертный зал Новгородской филармои MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-772 777; http://philnov.ru; Kremlin 8; tickets from R200)

Veliky Novgorod’s Philharmonic Concert Hall often hosts live classical and popular music concerts; check the website for the schedule and ticket prices.

7Shopping

Alkon DistilleryFOOD & DRINKS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.alkon.su; ul Germana 2; h10am-9pm)

The Alkon distillery has been in operation for over 100 years, producing a range of infused vodka (honey, thyme, rosemary) and high-quality sadko vodka, along with traditional nastoyka cranberry liqueur. Pick up a couple of bottles here at their small shop (from R120). The website has info in English and there is an English handout in-store.

Na TorguGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(На Торгу MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-664 472; ul Ilina 2; h10am-8pm)

Small store selling Novgorod’s best selection of local arts and craft souvenirs, including woolen hats, jewellery and matryoshki. It has an art gallery upstairs.

8Information

Tourist Office (Туристский информационный центр-Красная Изба GOOGLE MAP ; %8162-773 074; www.visitnovgorod.ru; Sennaya pl 5; h9.30am-6pm) One of the best tourist information centres in the country, this friendly English-speaking office provides helpful maps and local advice. City tours – on foot or bicycle – and excursions tailored to specific interests can be arranged. It even has a 24-hour tourist helpline (8162-998 686). The comprehensive website is in English and other languages.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

The bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Oktyabryaskaya) is 1.5km northwest of the kremlin.

Bus services include St Petersburg (R330, four hours, frequent), Pskov (R580, 4½ hours, 8am and 4pm) and Staraya Russa (R200, 1¾ hours, frequent).

Train

The train station (Новгород-на-Волхове GOOGLE MAP ; ul Oktyabryaskaya) is next to the bus station.

Elektrichki (suburban trains) run to St Petersburg’s Moscow Station (R400, three hours, two daily). There’s also a handy overnight train to Moscow (platskart/kupe R1622/2161, eight hours) leaving at 9.20pm, as well as a faster Moscow train (five hours, two daily) with a connection in Chudovo.

8Getting Around

Buses 7 and 7A run from the bus and train stations to the kremlin and town centre; otherwise it's a 15-minute walk.

Staraya Russa Старая Русса

%81652 / Population 31,809 / Time Moscow

Set along the tranquil Polist River, Staraya Russa retains the idyllic charm of the 19th century, when Dostoevsky wrote much of The Brothers Karamazov here. The town is the setting for the novel – visit the streets and churches the characters frequented and the home of Dostoevsky himself. There's also a handful of museums worth checking out.

The town, 100km southeast of Veliky Novgorod, can easily be visited for the day.

1Sights

oDostoevsky House MuseumMUSEUM

(Дом-музей Ф. М. Достоевского GOOGLE MAP ; %81652-21 477; http://russa.novgorod.ru/russa/fmdost.php; ul Dostoevskogo 42; adult/student R180/110; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed last Thu of the month)

The author’s family lived on the 1st floor of this riverside dacha, which contains many original pieces. Dostoevsky’s bookcase is still stocked, and his desk has replicas from his mazelike drafts – you can see his doodles on the pages. An English-language handout available at the ticket office details the collection.

Kartinnaya GalleryGALLERY

(Картинная Галерея GOOGLE MAP ; pl Timura Frunze; adult/student R180/110; h10am-5pm Wed-Mon)

On the grounds of a 12th-century monastery, this gallery houses a noteworthy selection of paintings and sculptures by artists who spent time in Staraya Russa. The 1st floor is dedicated to works by well-known Soviet-era painter Vasily Svarog, while the ground floor has sculptures by Tomsky, including one of Lenin as a child.

Resurrection CathedralCATHEDRAL

(Воскресенский собор GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vozrozhdeniya 1; h7am-7pm)

Sitting on the banks of the Polist River is this gorgeously restored 17th-century cathedral painted in red.

Church of the Holy Martyr MinaCHURCH

(Церковь святого великомученика Мины GOOGLE MAP ; ul Georgievskaya 44)

If you like your churches photogenically abandoned, this one's for you. Legend has it that in the 17th century, Swedish invaders sought refuge in the church after a long day of looting and pillaging, only to be struck blind upon crossing the threshold. They were sent back to Sweden as proof of the miracles of Russian Orthodoxy.

Regional MuseumMUSEUM

(Старорусский краеведческий музей GOOGLE MAP ; pl Timura Frunze; adult/student R100/60; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)

Housed in an attractive whitewashed 12th-century monastery, this museum offers the usual historical displays and religious relics, including some interesting religious etchings on bark, as well as artefacts from the area. You can also see fragments from the church's original frescoes dating to the 15th century.

Dostoevsky Cultural CentreARTS CENTRE

(Научно-культурный центр Достоевского GOOGLE MAP ; %81652-37 285; ul Dostoevskogo 8; adult/student R180/110; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri & Sun)

This handsome little neoclassical building hosts temporary Dostoevsky-centric exhibitions, as well as exhibitions of Russian artists, and events dedicated to Russian writers.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel PolistHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Полисть GOOGLE MAP ; %81652-37 547; www.hotel-polist.ru; ul Gostinodvorskaya 20; s/d incl breakfast from R1700/2400; W)

This well-maintained hotel is a solid option with functional, basic rooms. It also houses a decent restaurant that passes for fancy around these parts.

oAmaks Staraya RussaSPA HOTEL$$$

(Отель Старая Русса GOOGLE MAP ; %81652-57 888; www.russa.amaks-kurort.ru; ul Mineralnaya 62; s/d incl breakfast from R3000/4900; Ws)

A throwback to the town's heyday as a popular spa destination, this huge complex offers treatments, therapies and procedures for whatever ails you. There are loads of indulgent options, including massages and saunas. It's also great fun for kids. Comfortable rooms, an indoor pool and on-site restaurant round out the deal.

Cafe-Bar BashnyaRUSSIAN, EUROPEAN$$

(Кафе-бар БАШНЯ GOOGLE MAP ; ul Gostinodvorskaya 2; mains R250-650; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu & Sun, to 1am Fri & Sat; W)

With a menu catering to all tastes and a central-square location, Bashnya is a good choice for lunch and coffee while sightseeing in Staraya Russa. Choose from Russian classics, European fare and, of course, the ever-present pizza and sushi options.

8Information

Tourist Information ( GOOGLE MAP ; %81652-52 977; www.visitrussa.ru; ul Lenina 6; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; W) No English is spoken but the staff here are friendly and helpful and there is an English brochure on the town. Also has a map of the town and free wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

There are regular buses to/from Veliky Novgorod (R230, 1½ hours). Travelling to Novgorod, tickets tend to sell out fast, so it's best to buy your ticket when you arrive in Staraya Russa. There are at least six daily buses to/from St Petersburg (from R370, 3½ hours).

Train

The train station, next to the bus station, is on the route between Pskov (platskart/kupe R1279/1828, 3½ hours, one night bus) and Moscow (platskart/kupe R2006/2957, 7½ hours, one night bus); services are at inconvenient hours. There are no direct trains to or from St Petersburg.

8Getting Around

From the bus station (next to the train station), you can either catch a taxi (R100) to Dostoevsky’s old home or take a 40-minute walk. Head under the road bridge, cross the tracks, then continue along ul Karla Libknekhta until you hit the river. Cross it, turn right off the bridge and follow the riverside path south to the museum.

Pskov Псков

%8112 / Population 206,730 / Time Moscow

Only 30km from the Estonia border, church-studded Pskov is dominated by its mighty riverside kremlin, an enormous bulwark that has faced up to its fair share of invading armies down the centuries. Leafy lanes and parks wriggle their way round the attractive old quarter on the east bank, past weathered churches, city-wall ruins and handsome 19th-century brick residences.

Day trips include the old fortress and beautiful countryside at Stary Izborsk, the Technicolor church and spooky cave necropolis at Pechory, and Mikhailovskoe, the family estate and last resting place of Alexander Pushkin in Pushkinskie Gory.

History

Pskov’s history is saturated with 700 years of war for control of the Baltic coast. It was first mentioned in early Russian chronicles in 903 when Prince Igor of Kyiv married the future saint Olga of Pskov. Teutonic Knights captured the town in 1240, but Alexander Nevsky routed them two years later in a famous battle on the ice of Lake Peipsi.

In the 14th century, like Veliky Novgorod, Pskov was its own sovereign republic and a member of the Hanseatic League. The Poles laid siege in the 16th century and the Swedes did likewise the following century. Peter the Great used Pskov as a base for his drive to the sea, Nicholas II abdicated at its train station and the Red Army fought its first serious battle against Nazi troops outside the city.

Pskov

1Top Sights

1Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the SaviourB4

2Pskov National Museum of History, Architecture & ArtC3

3Trinity CathedralB1

1Sights

Dovmont TownB2

4Epiphany Church of ZapskovieC1

5KremlinB1

Mirozhsky MonasteryB4

6Pokrovskaya BashnyaC4

7Writ ChamberB2

4Sleeping

8Dvor PodznoevaC3

9Golden Embankment HotelC1

10Hostel RusB3

11Hotel 903B1

12Hotel ArleA2

13Hotel RizhskayaA2

14Old Estate Hotel & SpaC1

5Eating

Dvor PodznoevaC3

15GrafinD4

16HansaB2

17Pozharka TavernA2

Restaurant 903B1

RusakovC1

Trapeznie PalatC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

18Beer Bar 903B1

19Old School BarC2

Pivnoi DomC1

20TIRD2

3Entertainment

21Pskov Region PhilharmoniaC3

1Sights

oCathedral of the Transfiguration of the SaviourCATHEDRAL

(Спасо-Преображенский Собор Мирожского монастыря MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-567 301; Spaso-Preobrazhensky Sobor, Mirozhsky Monastery; adult/student R200/150, tours R900; h11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)

The Unesco-protected, nonworking Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour is the highlight of the Mirozhsky Monastery (Мирожский монастырь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-576 403; www.mirozhsky-monastery.ru; nab Mirozhskaya 2; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun, closed last Tue of the month). Its 12th-century frescos are considered to be one of the most complete representations of the biblical narrative to have survived the Mongols. The Byzantine-style frescos have been partially restored after centuries of damage from flooding, whitewashing and scrubbing; 80% of what you see today is original.

The cathedral was based on a 12th-century Greek model, formed around a symmetrical cross – you can still see traces of the original structure along exterior walls. The church closes often due to inclement weather – too hot, too cold or too wet – so it’s best to call in advance.

oPskov National Museum of History, Architecture & ArtMUSEUM

(Псковский государственный объединённый историко-архитектурный и художественный музей-заповедник MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-663 311; www.museums.pskov.ru; ul Nekrasova 7; Pogankin Chambers R250, art & history galleries R150; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed last Tue of the month)

As you can guess from its name, this museum, spread over several buildings, includes history and art exhibitions. The architecture bit comes from the museum’s key sight outside – the Pogankin Chambers (Поганкины палаты), the fortress-like house and treasury of a 17th-century merchant. Art from local churches, many of which have closed, has been collected here. The museum offers a rare chance to thoroughly examine one particular style of iconography at close range. There are no English captions, but audio guides (R200) are available.

The maze of galleries in the chambers holds 14th-to-18th-century pottery, weaving and weaponry, including the original 15th-century sword of one of Pskov’s princes. Equally impressive is the huge collection of silver artefacts, including beautifully crafted baroque-style bible covers. The largest, a 25kg beast, was originally housed at Pskov’s Trinity Cathedral.

Equally worthwhile is the art gallery, with works spanning the 18th to 20th centuries, including paintings by Nikitin, Tropinin and Zhukovsky, plus representations from the Russian avant-garde, including a couple of Petrov-Vodkins.

The 2nd floor in the main building houses the war collection, with photos and artefacts from WWII and more recent conflicts.

oTrinity CathedralCHURCH

(Троицкий собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kremlin; h11am-5pm)

This blindingly white 72m-high structure, with its top dome shining gold, can be seen from miles away on a clear day. Consecrated in 1699, it’s the fourth version of a church to have stood on this spot since the early 11th century, when a wooden one was commissioned by Princess Olga, an early convert to the Orthodox faith. The interior contains a large collection of bejewelled icons of the Madonna.

KremlinHISTORIC SITE

(Псковский Кремль (Кром) MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-8pm)F

Rising from a high narrow cape on the banks of the Velikaya River, Pskov's mighty kremlin (also known as the Krom) is the most complete portion of a fortress that once had five layers, 37 towers, 14 gates and an overall length of 9.5km. The walls and towers of the 15th-to-16th-century Outer Town (Окольный город) can still be seen along ul Sverdlova, the Velikaya River embankment and across the tributary Pskova River.

The largest tower – a whopping 90m in diameter and 50m tall – is the Pokrovskaya Bashnya (Intercession Tower; MAP GOOGLE MAP ). Dovmont Town can be found in the southern corner of the complex.

Writ ChamberMUSEUM

(Приказные Палаты MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museums.pskov.ru; Kremlin; adult/student R100/50; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun, closed last Tue of the month)

This 17th-century stone building once held the administrative chambers of Pskov. Today it houses a small museum that gives some insight into the workings and officialdom of the old city; there's also a decent souvenir shop on the premises and an information centre. Outside, you'll find the preserved foundations of a dozen 12th-to-15th-century churches that once made up the independent city of Dovmont Town (Довмонтов город MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kremlin).

Epiphany Church of ZapskovieCHURCH

(Церковь Богоявления с Запсковья MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Gertsena 7; h8am-6pm)

This attractive, working church overlooking the Pskova River was built in 1494 and includes a separately standing five-column belfry – its open gables and large pillars are distinctive of the Pskovian style. Around the church is a lovely stretch of park.

WORTH A TRIP

MIKHAILOVSKOE

Russia’s most beloved poet, Alexander Pushkin, lived several years at his family estate, Mikhailovskoe, near the small town of Pushkinskie Gory (Пушкинские Горы; Pushkin Hills), 120km south of Pskov.

The family first came to the area in the late 1700s, when Pushkin’s great-grandfather Abram Hannibal was given the land by Empress Elizabeth. The family house was destroyed during WWII and has since been rebuilt. The surrounding 20-hectare park includes servants’ quarters, orchards, cute bridges and a wooden windmill.

Pushkin’s writing room has also been re-created, with his comfy leather chair, portraits of Byron and Zhukovsky (Pushkin’s mentor, also a poet) and a small statue of Napoleon. The thick religious book on his writing table is the one he supposedly grabbed from the family bookcase and pretended to be reading whenever he saw the local priest coming for a visit.

At Pushkinskie Gory, about 1km north of the bus stop, is the Svyatogorsky Monastery (Святогорский монастырь), where Pushkin is buried. Monks remember him in their daily prayers.

Many travel agencies run excursions from Pskov on Saturdays with Russian-speaking guides only (R900, excluding admission fees); for an English-speaking guide, get in touch with the Pskov tourism office well in advance. See www.pushkin.ellink.ru for accommodation options.

You can catch a bus to Pushkinskie Gory from the Pskov bus station (R200 to R250, 2½ hours, at least six daily); the first bus leaves at 7.20am. The Pushkinskie Gory bus station is about 6km from Mikhailovskoe. If there's no local bus to cover the last leg, take a pleasant country walk. Turn left out of the bus station and walk for 1km along the road – you’ll eventually see the Svyatagorsky Monastery on your left. From there a road leads off to the right towards Mikhailovskoe. However the best option is to hire a taxi from Pushkinskie Gory to take you around for the day; expect to pay between R1500 and R2000.

4Sleeping

Avatar HotelHOTEL$

(Аватар Отель GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-662 686; www.avatarhotelpskov.ru; 3rd fl, ul Sovetskaya 111; s/d from R1100/1600; W)

The building's rear entrance and the surrounding industrial area are less than appealing, but head up to the 3rd floor and you'll find the bright and colourful Avatar. It's a great choice for budget travellers looking for clean modern rooms and a handy location for the bus and train stations. Cheaper rooms have shared bathroom. There's also an on-site cafe.

Hostel RusHOSTEL$

(Xостел Pус MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-921-212 4505; www.hostelruspskov.ru; ul Lagernaya 5a; dm R500-700, d R1600; W)

You'll be doubting your Google Maps directions when you wander around a back street to a random corner apartment building, but that's exactly where you'll find this spick-and-span hostel. Mixed four- to eight-bed dorms are bright with individual lamp, power point and curtain for privacy. The fully equipped kitchen, laundry and close-to-the-river location are added bonuses. No English is spoken.

oHotel 903HOTEL$$

(Гостиница 903 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-570 557, 8-911-880 0903; www.pskov903.ru; ul Maxima Gorkogo 2b; s/d incl breakfast from R2800/3000; aW)

This sparkling hotel has exceptional river and kremlin views, comfortable beds and lots of nice little extras, including free hot drinks all day and good hairdryers in the bathrooms. All rooms have balconies and some have lovely exposed timber ceilings. Top-notch staff (Russian-speaking only) and a cute restaurant round out the deal.

Hotel ArleHOTEL$$

(Отель Арль MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-298 080; pr Rizhsky 16; htw/d incl breakfast from R1800/2300; aW)

The 4th floor of an entertainment and shopping complex is not where you'd expect to find such a sparkling clean and great-value boutique-y hotel. Arle offers modern rooms with comfortable beds, helpful staff and a decent breakfast in the downstairs restaurant. Some rooms can receive a bit of noise from the entertainment complex, namely bowling pins crashing at the on-site alley!

Hotel RizhskayaHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Рижская MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-562 223; www.rijskaya.ru; Rizhsky pr 25; s/d R1700/3000; W)

Overlooking a grassy square, this old Intourist offers modern, renovated rooms with small bathtubs. Some of the friendly staff speak English. Buffet breakfast is R320 extra. Ask for a room with a view over the park.

Golden Embankment HotelHOTEL$$

(Отель Золотая Набережная MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-627 877; www.zn-hotel.ru; nab Sovetskaya 2; s/d incl breakfast R3200/3500; W)

With a prime position in the shadow of the kremlin, this intimate hotel, in an unmissable peach building, offers pleasant, spacious and reasonably priced rooms with a friendly welcome. Request a room with a kremlin view. Some English is spoken.

oDvor PodznoevaHOTEL$$$

(Двор Подзноева MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-797 000; www.dvorpodznoeva.ru; ul Nekrasova 1; s/d R4410/4680; Ws)

This classy hotel in a 19th-century building is Pskov's best, with comfortable, nicely decorated rooms. An added perk is complimentary use of the pool, sauna and spa, where a range of massage treatments are available. Staff are friendly and professional, and some speak English. It's part of a complex of several eateries.

Old Estate Hotel & SpaSPA HOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-794 545; www.oldestatehotel.com; ul Verkhne-Beregovaya 4; s/d from R5100/5700; Ws)

Pskov’s most upmarket option stands in a leafy street near the Pskova River. English-speaking staff is on hand and the service here matches the prices. Guests can use the spa with sauna, Jacuzzi and splash pool for free between 7am and 10am (R500 afterwards). Nab a superior room for views.

5Eating

Restaurant 903GRILL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Nabat 2a; mains R160-580; h11am-2am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun)

This popular hang-out draws the crowds for all the right reasons: a lovely summer terrace with brilliant river views, a warm and woodsy interior and a menu for meat lovers with grilled meats prepared in its own smokehouse. Beer brewed at neighbouring Beer Bar 903 is available on tap.

Dvor PodznoevaRUSSIAN$

(Двор Подзноева MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.dvorpodznoeva.ru; ul Nekrasova 1; dishes from R60; W)

There's something for everyone at this imaginatively designed complex: underground bakery cafe, beer house, well-stocked wine-and-cheese cellar, and the Trapeznie Palat.

oPozharka TavernGRILL$$

(Таверна Пожарка MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-911-381 0065; www.pozharkapskov.ru; ul Paromenskaya 14; mains R350-650; h11am-2am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun)

Although no longer in its riverside location, Pozharka still draws the crowds for its carnivore-pleasing menu that stars grilled meat and various treats prepared in the tavern's own smokehouse. The tender and juicy whole smoked trout is highly recommended and a steal at R120. There's a great range of beers too.

oRusakovRUSSIAN$$

(Ресторан Русаков MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-201 480; www.caferp.ru; nab Sovetskaya 1/2; mains R260-690; hnoon-midnight; W)

Sitting on the riverside, plush upmarket Rusakov does classic Russian cuisine with a side of up-close kremlin and Trinity Cathedral views. Sink into comfy armchairs and peruse the menu of excellent dishes, such as pike dumplings, delicious homemade pelmeni, smoked trout, duck bliny and Russian wine from the Black Sea region.

HansaRUSSIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-700 190; www.caferp.ru; ul Maksima Gorkogo 6a; mains R180-520; hnoon-1am; W)

This medieval-themed basement restaurant stays on the right side of kitsch with huge wooden chairs, exposed brick, lamp lighting and wrought-iron light fixtures. The menu features hearty comfort food, from Bavarian sausages and homemade pelmeni to warming soups and chargrilled meats. German beers are also on offer.

GrafinINTERNATIONAL$$

(Графин MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-663 782; www.steakpskov.ru; ul Sovetskaya 83; mains R160-1200; h11am-2am Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun)

Grafin bills itself as a steakhouse, and while it does a mean mignon (R1300), there's plenty more than beef on the menu. Classics such as pork, lamb and chicken get a good workout, as do specialities such as rabbit and liver. They also do fish cooked on charcoal and homemade pelmeni, but there are slim pickings for vegos.

KinzaMIDDLE EASTERN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-724 158; www.caferp.ru; pr Rizhskiy 54; mains R300-690; hnoon-1am; W)

In the basement of a residential building is this bright, sophisticated spot with exposed brick, Persian rugs and warm lighting. The menu features Middle Eastern fare from shashlyks (meat kebabs) and salads to pita wraps and homemade dips. There's no English menu but the friendly staff speak some English.

Trapeznie PalatRUSSIAN$$$

(Трапезные Палаты MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-797 111; ul Nekrasova 1; meals R640-1100; hnoon-midnight)

Part of the Dvor Podznoeva complex, this top-of-the-line restaurant occupies a re-created colourful interior of a 17th-century merchant's home. It serves traditional local dishes; soak them up with vodkas flavoured with ginger, horseradish, juniper and cedar.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Old School BarCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3rd fl, Oktyabrskaya pr 20; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)

This mainstream rock bar has MTV on the screens and graffiti wall art. Join the young Pskovians here for late-night boogieing to thumping DJs, or just prop up the bar with some well-made cocktails from its extensive menu.

Beer Bar 903MICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-900-990 3903; www.pivopskov.ru; ul Nabat 2а h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

Enjoy mellow river views with delicious beers brewed on-site at this rustic, chalet-like bar. Photo opps of the kremlin out front are some of the best you'll get. Also does meals.

TIRBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.tirclub.ru; ul Sverdlova 52; hnoon-1am Mon-Thu & Sun, to 3am Fri & Sat; W)

This grungy, two-level hang-out is the hub of Pskov’s underground music scene, staging local and national bands and DJs. Nibbles are available throughout the day and dirt-cheap beer is dispensed in big red brass samovars.

Pivnoi DomBAR

(Пивной Дом MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-627 800; www.zn-hotel.ru; Sovetskaya nab 1/2; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

A cooling drink on the terrace of this joint facing the kremlin is perfect on a sunny day. It also does wonderfully fattening, German-style snacks.

3Entertainment

Pskov Region PhilharmoniaCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Псковская областная филармония MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-668 920; www.philpskov.ru; ul Nekrasova 24; tickets from R150; hbox office 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)

Home of the city’s classical orchestra; visit the website for concert details.

8Information

Pskov Tourist Centre (Туристский информационный центр Красная Изба GOOGLE MAP ; www.tourism.pskov.ru; Administrative Chambers, Kremlin 4; h10am-8pm) English-speaking staff can provide maps, advice and information on tours to Stary Izborsk or Mikhailovskoe. The tourist centre is usually located at pl Lenina 3, but at the time of research it was in a hard-to-find temporary location in the southwest corner of the kremlin; look for the old white building and call if you need directions.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Pskovavia (www.pskovavia.ru) operates irregular passenger flights (two hours, from R3865) between Moscow’s Domodedovo Airport and Pskov’s Kresty Airport, 6km southeast of the city centre; check the website for details. Note that flights in June and July tend to sell out months in advance.

Bus

Bus connections from Pskov bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vokzalnaya) include St Petersburg (from R420, three to five hours, frequently), Veliky Novgorod (R530, 4½ hours, two daily) and Smolensk (from R750, seven to 10 hours, two daily and two night buses).

There are regular buses to/from Pechory (from R100, one hour), most of which stop en route in Stary Izborsk (from R78, 45 minutes).

Buses also cross the Estonian border to Tallinn (R1700, six hours, daily at 8.20am) and Tartu (from R570, three to four hours, two daily). Both pass through Stary Izborsk and Pechory – you could pick up the bus in either place rather than backtracking to Pskov. Details of other Russian and international services can be found at www.tourism.pskov.ru.

Train

The train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vokzalnaya) is next to the bus station. Pskov is connected by one or two daily trains to Moscow (platskart/kupe from R1671/2359, 10 to 15 hours). For St Petersburg there's only one direct train, running on Sunday only (obshchiy/kupe R590/1223, four hours), so the bus is a better option. Otherwise you can catch a train to Luga (two to three hours), where there are connecting trains to St Petersburg (two hours).

For Latvia and Lithuania, you'll need to first catch a bus to Dedovichi (R250, 2¼ hours), from where there's an evening train to Rīga (platskart/kupe from R2389/4694, 11¾ hours) at 9.30pm, or Vilnius (platskart/kupe from R4412/8318, 13 hours) at 8.20pm.

8Getting Around

Buses 11 and 17 run from the train station down Oktyabrsky pr and through the centre (R16). Bus 2 or 17 runs along Rizhsky pr from the station (taxis charge about R150). Bus 2 also runs past Mirozhsky Monastery.

Stary Izborsk Старый Изборск

%81148 / Population 789 / Time Moscow

Its name meaning ‘old Izborsk’, this sleepy village is indeed ancient – it celebrated its 1150th anniversary in 2012. The main attraction here is the ruined stone fortress, which overlooks lovely countryside, and there's the peaceful Gorodishchenskoye Lake further afield. There are a few small museums worth visiting and this is a great spot to take a break and get a taste of the Russian rural way of life for a day or so.

1Sights & Activities

Izborsk Museum organises a range of cultural tours and sightseeing in town; check their website for details. There are also a few more museums covering ethnology and archaeology along the main street.

FortressFORTRESS

(Крепость GOOGLE MAP ; adult/student R100/50; h9am-6pm)

The ruins of this ancient stone fortress are among the oldest in Russia, and from its ridge location it overlooks a beautiful slice of countryside. Inside is the small 14th-century Church of St Nicholas and a stone tower with a viewing platform. A path behind the fortress leads to the tranquil Gorodishchenskoye Lake and Slovenian Springs (Словенские ключи), a 10-minute walk away. It's a pleasant spot with a few small cascading falls and moss-covered stones.

Locals carry their own water bottles to fill up at the springs – legend has it that the water will bring love, happiness, health and good luck.

Izborsk MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Изборск GOOGLE MAP ; www.museum-izborsk.ru; ul Pechorskaya 39; admission R100; h10am-6pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr)

This museum houses displays of local archaeological finds and explanations, in Russian, of the town’s rich history. The museum website has information on village festivals.

Horse RidingHORSE RIDING

(%8-964-316 6393; per hr R800)

Stary Izborsk's beautiful countryside is perfect for exploring on horseback.

4Sleeping & Eating

oIzborsk ParkGUESTHOUSE$$

(Изборск-Парк GOOGLE MAP ; %81148-23 327; www.izborsk-park.ru; ul Pechorskaya 43; d from R2500, mains R90-480; hcafe 10am-8pm)

This is country living, Russian style, at its finest. Rooms are inviting and cosy, the air smells of wood fires, and the grounds themselves are ridiculously Arcadian with roaming geese and chickens. The attached cafe serves up wholesome, hearty food such as soup and cabbage rolls, as well as beer on tap. There's a banya (R1800 for two hours) too.

Izborsk HotelHOTEL$$

(Гостиничный комплекс Изборск GOOGLE MAP ; %8112-607 031, 8-921-703 7031; www.izborsk-hotel.ru; ul Pechorskaya 13; s/d incl breakfast from R2300/3000; W)

This pretty complex ticks all the twee boxes: it's romantic and quaint with lace curtains and floral wallpaper. The attached craft shop sells charming hand-stitched teddies and cute gifts, and the restaurant cooks with locally sourced ingredients. You'll find it at the entrance to the village from the main road.

It also has a banya (R1200 for one hour) and bicycle hire (R150 per hour).

Gostevoy DomGUESTHOUSE$$

(Гостевой Дом GOOGLE MAP ; %81148-96 612; ul Shkolnaya, 3; d/tr without bathroom R1500/2000, ste with bathroom R3500; W)

Affiliated with Izborsk Museum, this bucolic guesthouse overlooks the valley from beneath the back of the fortress. The two-room lyux suite has a broad private balcony. Guests can use the communal kitchen.

BlinnayaRUSSIAN$

(Блинная GOOGLE MAP ; bliny from R110; h8am-7pm)

Just steps from the kremlin walls and fortress entrance is this sweet little cafe boasting ‘Izborskian’ bliny. There's also light meals such as pelmeni and potato fritters. Look for the big garden and dark-wood gate; the outside area is ideal for an afternoon drink.

8Getting There & Away

Stary Izborsk is 32km from Pskov, on the road to Estonia. There are bus connections with Pskov (R100, 45 minutes, six daily) and Pechory (R69, 20 minutes, frequent). Several of the buses from Pskov to Pechory stop in Stary Izborsk, so it’s easy to combine a trip to both places.

Pechory Печоры

%81148 / Population 11,195 / Time Moscow

This tiny town, just 2.5km from the Estonian border, is home to the photogenic Pechory Monastery and its eerie burial caves. You can wander the monastery grounds and visit most of the churches on your own. To visit the caves you’ll have to join a tour; be sure to arrange this in advance.

Tours booked in nearby Pskov start from R700 and visit both Pechory and Stary Izborsk. With enough notice they should be able to arrange an English-speaking guide.

1Sights

Pechory MonasteryMONASTERY

(Свято-Успенский Псково-Печерский монастырь GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-8pm)

Founded in 1473, this monastery sits in a ravine full of hermits’ grottoes. With all the high ground outside, it’s an improbable stronghold, but several tsars fortified it and depended on it. A path descends under the 1564 St Nicholas Church (Никольская церковь) into a Disneyesque palette of colours and architectural styles, where several dozen monks still live and study. One of the highlights is the burial caves ( GOOGLE MAP ; admission by donation; hnear caves 10am-5pm, far caves 10am-5pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun), where some 10,000 bodies – monks, benefactors and others – are bricked up in vaults.

The central yellow church comprises two buildings. At ground level is the original Assumption Cathedral (Успенский собор), built into the caves. Upstairs is the 18th-century baroque Intercession Church (Покровская церковь). Below the belfry on the left is the entrance to the caves. Taking photos of the buildings is acceptable if you make a contribution at the front gate, but photographing the monks is taboo. Women must wear skirts and cover their heads and shoulders (shawls and skirts to be worn over trousers are available to borrow at the entrance). Men should wear long pants.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Pechory ParkHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Печоры-Парк GOOGLE MAP ; %81148-23 327; www.pechorypark.ru; ul Gagarin 2b; d/q R1895/3400; W)

Just 500m from the monastery and offering city-style service, this hotel is your best option in Pechory. Rooms are small and basic. Some standard rooms have shared showers and no TV but do come with private toilet and washbasin. There's a cafe on site.

Old Tower CafeCAFE$

(Кафе Старая Башня GOOGLE MAP ; Oktyabrskaya pl 7; mains R110-350; h9am-9pm; W)

Housed in an old brick water tower, this charming modern cafe offers simple, classic meals, such as pelmeni (Russian-style ravioli typically stuffed with meat) – veg options also available – and hearty soups.

8Information

Excursion Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-911-379 4815; www.pechori.ru; h10am-5pm) For Pechory Monastery and caves tours.

8Getting There & Away

You can cross the Estonian border to Tallinn (R1650, five hours, daily) and Tartu (R370, three hours, two daily) on buses originating in Pskov. Hourly buses shuttle between Pskov and Pechory (from R100, one hour) between 8am and 11pm. At least six buses a day make a stop in Stary Izborsk (R69, 25 minutes). See www.pechori.ru for updated timetable links.