Kaliningrad Region
Kaliningrad Region
Why Go?
The Kaliningrad region's eponymous capital was the medieval seat of Prussia and an important port that was fought over for centuries. Today, fewer than 500,000 people visit each year. Until WWII, the province was almost entirely German; bratwurst made way for borsch after the war as Stalin repopulated the region with Russians. Though Kaliningrad is separated from Russia by Lithuania and Poland, the exclave is intimately attached to the motherland.
Yet for all of its chaotic history and cultural foibles – or perhaps because of them – 'Little Russia' is a fascinating place to visit. The city of Kaliningrad teems with interesting sights and surprisingly sophisticated accommodation and dining options; seaside towns Svetlogorsk and Zelenogradsk dish up old-world charm by the spadeful; sparkling Yantarny is the world's amber capital; and the dunes, pine forests and tranquil villages of Kurshskaya Kosa National Park make for a serene sojourn.
When to Go
AJul The Baltic Sea warms up for swimming weather; crowds descend on the beaches.
AAug The summer season is in full swing, and seaside Yantarny celebrates its Amberfest.
ASep & Oct The population hunkers down for the long dark season; Kaliningrad's lively cultural calendar helps soften winter's blow.
Kaliningrad Region's Highlights
1 Kaliningrad Cathedral Paying your respects at philosopher Immanuel Kant's grave, then attending an organ concert.
2 Museum of the World Ocean Exploring Russia's maritime history on former expedition vessels and a submarine.
3 Kurshskaya Kosa National Park Soaking up the beauty of the Curonian Spit, where the forests dance and the dunes roll on as far as the eye can see.
4 Yantarny Visiting a working amber mine and then splashing in the Baltic.
5 Svetlogorsk Discovering old German villas and the sculptures of Herman Brachert while strolling this spa town's shady lanes.
6 Chernyakhovsk Seeing ruined castles and saddling up at the Georgenburg Stud Farm.
History
The Kaliningrad region is intimately connected with the Order of the Teutonic Knights, a band of Christian crusaders with historical ties to the Baltic Sea area. The town of Königsberg was founded by the knights in 1255, the name könig (German for ‘king’) referring to Bohemian King Ottakar II, who had led a crusade against the then-pagan Old Prussians. The city prospered and joined the Hanseatic League of northern European cities in 1340.
Following a series of battles and disputes with the Polish kingdom, Königsberg served as the residence of the grand masters of the Teutonic order and their successors, the dukes of Prussia. The area eventually emerged as the Duchy of Prussia in 1525, with Königsberg as its capital. Prussia’s first king, Frederick I, was crowned in 1701 in the city’s castle.
Königsberg’s liberal atmosphere attracted scholars, artists and entrepreneurs from across Europe, and for the next couple of centuries the city flourished – in 1697 Peter the Great visited as part of his Grand Embassy and the 18th-century philosopher Immanuel Kant (1724–1804) lived there all his life. For four years of the Seven Years’ War (1756–63), East Prussia – as the Duchy became known as in the early 18th century – temporarily became part of the Russian Empire and, later, during the Napoleonic Wars, Russia and Prussia were allies.
Following Germany’s defeat in WWI, East Prussia was separated from the rest of Germany when Poland regained statehood. Animosity caused by this division helped in part to explain the regional popularity of the emerging Nazi party in the 1930s. During WWII, the city of Königsberg suffered heavy bombing by the Royal Air Force (in 1944). Less than a year later, in April 1945, the Soviet Red Army captured the city in one of the fiercest battles of WWII. There were massive casualties on both sides and Königsberg was left in ruins.
After the war, the region was renamed Kaliningrad in honour of Mikhail Kalinin, one of Stalin’s more vicious henchmen, and the capital was rebuilt in grand Soviet concrete style, albeit tempered by parks, ponds, waterways and the Kaliningrad Lagoon. The surviving German population was relocated to far-flung corners of the Soviet Union, deported or killed. The Russian Baltic fleet was headquartered in Baltiysk, and the region was closed to foreigners for over 40 years.
Like much of Russia, Kaliningrad struggled through extreme economic difficulties in the early 1990s. The discovery of oil off the coast and the granting of special economic zone status have helped it turn the corner. With Kaliningrad one of the host cities for the 2018 FIFA World Cup, the region remains of key strategic importance to Russia.
Kaliningrad Калининград
%4012 / Population 431,900 / Time Moscow –1hr
While Königsberg revelled in regal architecture and a cosmopolitan European culture, Kaliningrad carries more than a whiff of its days as an outpost of the USSR. But despite vast swaths of brutal Stalin-stamped buildings and unmistakably Soviet monuments, the city is a pleasant one, softened by leafy parks, revitalised historical enclaves, exceptional museums, charming neighbourhoods and its trademark city gates. Kaliningrad is easy to navigate: public transport abounds, as do welcoming locals all too willing to lend visitors a hand.
After Kaliningrad Cathedral, the most visible remains of Königsberg are its red-brick fortification walls, bastions and gates, built between the 17th and 19th centuries. The remains of the city's castle were destroyed and replaced by the hideous Dom Sovietov (House of Soviets) in the 1960s. During the eyesore’s construction it was discovered that the land below was hollow, housing a (now-flooded) four-level underground passage connecting to the cathedral. The decaying, half-finished building has never been used.
1Sights
oMuseum of the World OceanMUSEUM
(Музей Мирового Океана
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-538 915; www.world-ocean.ru; nab Petra Velikogo 1; adult/student R300/150, individual vessels R150/100; 
h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)
Strung along the banks of the Pregolya River are several ships, a submarine, maritime machinery and exhibition halls that together make up this excellent museum. The highlight is the handsome former scientific expedition vessel Vityaz, moored alongside the Viktor Patsaev, with its exhibits relating to space research; visits to this are by guided tour (included in the admission price; every 45 minutes). The pre-atomic B-413 submarine gives a taste of what life was like for its 300 former inhabitants.
A restored storehouse has interesting displays on the sea-connected history of Kaliningrad, as well as the remains of a 19th-century wooden fishing boat. There’s also a pavilion with a sperm whale skeleton, and halls with small aquariums and general information about the ocean.
Kaliningrad CathedralCHURCH
(Кафедральный собор Кёнигсберга
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-631 705; www.sobor-kaliningrad.ru; Kant Island; adult/student R200/100, concerts from R150; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri-Sun)
Photos displayed inside this Unesco World Heritage Site attest to how dilapidated the cathedral was until the early 1990s – the original dates back to 1333. The lofty interior is dominated by an ornate organ used for regular concerts. Upstairs, the carved-wood Wallenrodt Library has interesting displays of old Königsberg.
The top floor is devoted to noted philosopher and Kaliningrad native Immanuel Kant (1724–1804); the exhibition includes his death mask. Kant's Tomb (Mогила Канта MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kant Island) is on the building's outer north side.
Bunker MuseumMUSEUM
(Музей Блиндаж
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Universitetskaya 3; adult/student R150/70; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
The city’s last German commander, Otto Lasch, capitulated to the Soviets from this buried command post on 9 April 1945, following the bloody Battle of Königsberg. Exhibits include wartime photographs and film, and a peek into the cell where Lasch surrendered. There's little English signage, but enough to get a general idea. The entrance is poorly marked. Find it in a small park just east of Leninsky pr.
Amber MuseumMUSEUM
(Музей Янтаря
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-466 888; www.ambermuseum.ru; pl Marshala Vasilevskogo 1; adult/student R240/140; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; 
c)
Housed in the 19th-century Dohna Tower (Башня Дона MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Marshala Vasilevskogo) on the southern shore of the Upper Pond (Верхний пруд), this museum features over 6000 amber exhibits, including marvellous artworks, a whopping 4.28kg nugget and ancient specimens with prehistoric insects and plants fossilised in resin. You can buy amber jewellery in the museum or from the vendors outside.
Kant Island & RiversideAREA
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This once densely populated island – now a parkland dotted with sculptures – is dominated by the Kaliningrad Cathedral. A few nearby buildings – the former Stock Exchange (Биржа
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Leninsky pr 83) from the 1870s and the neotraditional row of shops, restaurants and hotels known as Fish Village (Рыбная Деревня
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
) – hint at what this area looked like before WWII. Get a bird's-eye view from the 31m-high lighthouse viewing tower (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; R100; h10am-10pm).
Friedland GateMUSEUM
(Ворота Фридланд
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-644 020; www.fvmuseum.ru; ul Dzerzhinskogo 30; adult/child R200/100; h10am-7pm May-Aug, to 6pm Sep-Apr, closed 1st Fri of month)
This history museum is housed in the 19th-century Friedland Gate, for years one of the main entry points into the city. Admission includes permanent exhibitions on the Teutonic Knights and the history of the city through eight centuries; there is a little in English. The highlight is a 30-minute multimedia show made up of projections of photos taken in the city between 1908 and 1913, and grainy footage shot around the castle in 1937.
History & Arts MuseumMUSEUM
(Историко-Художественный музей
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-994 900; www.westrussia.org; ul Klinicheskaya 21; adult/student R100/80; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in a reconstructed 1912 concert hall on the banks of the pretty Lower Pond (Нижний пруд), this museum mainly focuses on events since Russia’s takeover of the region, though Kaliningrad's German past does get a look-in.
Central ParkPARK
(Центральный парк
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; main entrance pr Pobedy 1; h24hr)
F
This forest-like park, on the grounds of an old German cemetery, has statues, funfair rides and an amphitheatre hosting summer concerts.
King's GateMUSEUM
(Королевские ворота
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Frunze 112; adult/student R100/50; h11am-7pm Wed-Sun)
Focusing on Peter the Great’s Grand Embassy to the city in 1697, this revamped gate also has good models of old Königsberg and exhibits on the personalities who shaped the region’s history. A little south of here, where Moskovsky pr meets Litovsky val, is the twin-towered Sackheim Gate (Закхаймские ворота).
Kaliningrad ZooZOO
(Калининградский Зоопарк
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-218 914; www.kldzoo.ru; pr Mira 26; Mon-Fri R100, Sat & Sun R270; h9am-8pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr; c)
This is one of the city's most popular attractions for families, so expect lines on the weekends. The zoo dates from 1896, when it was founded as the Königsberger Tiergarten. The destruction of WWII and funding shortfalls in the 1990s made things difficult for the animals, though the authorities are now working hard to improve the facilities. There are lots of big cats, though kids will love the bear and hippos the most.
Kaliningrad Art GalleryGALLERY
(Калинингадская художественная галерея
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-467 143; www.kaliningradartmuseum.ru; Moskovsky pr 60-62; adult/student R150/100; h10am-7pm Tue & Wed, Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu)
The Kaliningrad Art Gallery contains modern and contemporary works by local artists, including some striking pieces from the Soviet decades. The gallery shop sells art books and local creations.
Ploshchad PobedySQUARE
(Площадь победы MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The city’s central square has come a long way since 1934, when it was known as Adolf-Hitler Platz. Today it's surrounded by shopping malls and the gold-domed Cathedral of Christ the Saviour (Кафедральный Собор Христа Спасителя
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; pl Pobedy; h8am-7pm), built in 2006 in the Russo-Byzantine style.
DON'T MISS
AMALIENAU АМАЛИЕНАУ
To the city’s west along pr Mira is Amalienau, Kaliningrad's most beautiful neighbourhood offering a glimpse of the city's prosperous pre-WWII past. Stroll along ul Kutuzova to find an eclectic range of villas. The streets connecting prs Pobedy and Mira are filled with beautiful prewar townhouses such as Altes Haus (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %tours 4012-335 060; www.alteshaus.ru; ul Krasnaya 11, Amalienau; R300; htours 11am, 1pm, 3pm Mon-Sat), a museum housed in a 1912 apartment house, which has been restored to its former state and stuffed with genteel period pieces and gorgeous antique furniture. Entry is by guided tour (in Russian). Visitors are given more or less free rein to sit on the furniture and generally carry on – politely – as if they owned the joint.
KALININGRAD'S STATUES & MONUMENTS
Kaliningrad is littered with all manner of amusing, eclectic statues and monuments, celebrating everything from cosmonauts to Woody Allen. A statue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul A Nevskogo, Kant State University) of Königsberg’s most famous son, Immanuel Kant, stands in front of the university named after him, tucked off Leninsky pr.
Along pr Mira, the Cosmonaut Monument (Памятник Землякам Космонавтам MAP GOOGLE MAP ; next to pr Mira 41/43) is a gem of Soviet iconography, honouring the four Kaliningrad-born cosmonauts, including Alexey Leonov, the first man to conduct a space walk.
In the lobby of the nearby Scala cinema is a witty monument to Woody Allen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pr Mira 43), who was born Allen Konigsberg – a pair of the film director’s trademark glasses jut from the wall. In Central Park, you'll find monuments to legendary tall-tale teller and supposed Kaliningrad visitor Baron Munchausen ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pr Pobedy 1), and Vladimir Vysotsky (Памятник Владимиру Высоцкому MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pr Pobedy 1), a massively popular singer from the 1960s and '70s.
2Activities
Amber SpaSPA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-592 200; www.amberspa.ru; ul Oktyabrskaya 6; from R1000, prices vary by the day; h7am-10pm)
Five different saunas, a medium-sized swimming pool, a spa and a swim-up bar make up this swish spa complex attached to the Hotel Kaiserhof.
Boat ToursBOATING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; adult/child R500/250; hMay-Sep)
Small passenger boats leave from the promenade beside Fish Village and sail around Kant Island and down the Pregolya River (one hour).
zFestivals & Events
For a small city, Kaliningrad has a wealth of festivals livening up the calendar. See www.visit-kaliningrad.ru/en/events for the full rundown.
First Summer Music FestivalMUSIC
(hJun)
Local and international musicians rocking out reggae, punk and ska style. Held at the start of June.
Kaliningrad City Jazz FestivalMUSIC
(www.jazzfestival.ru; hJul-Aug)
Open-air jazzfest held in Central Park at the end of July and the beginning of August.
4Sleeping
Amalienau HostelHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-911-864 8686; www.amalienau-hostel.ru; ul Karla Marksa 19; dm/r from R540/1500)
Clean, friendly hostel in the historic Amalienau neighbourhood, about 3km west of the city centre. Accommodation is in 10-bed mixed, male-only or female-only rooms, with a few excellent-value private doubles available. Breakfast costs an extra R150.
Oh, my KantHOSTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-390 278; www.ohmykant.ru; ul Yablonevaya Alleya 34; dm/d from R500/1900; 
W)
This well-maintained hostel is one of several budget accommodation options run by the 'Oh, my Kant' group. See the website for the other properties. The setting here is a charming house in a lovely part of town, about 2km west of the centre. The dorms are airy and bright, and the kitchen and common areas are super-clean.
oChaikaHOTEL$$
(Чайка
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-210 729; www.hotelchaika.ru; ul Pugacheva 13; s/d from R3500/4000; 
aW)
On a leafy street near the picturesque Amalienau area, the ‘Seagull’ is a delightful 28-room property occupying an early-20th-century mansion and decorated with classy heritage touches. It also has a restaurant, comfy lounge and fitness room.
oSkipper HotelHOTEL$$
(Гостиница Шкиперcкая
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-307 237; www.skipperhotel.ru; ul Oktyabrskaya 4a; r from R3500; aW)
Location, ahoy! In a quaint period building with a superb riverside position in Fish Village, the Skipper is within stumbling distance of many of Kaliningrad's main attractions, cafes and bars. Rooms are clean with a vague nautical theme. Breakfast costs an additional R600. Ask for a room overlooking the river.
Hotel ParaisoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(Гостиница Параисо
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-216 969; http://ageevgroup.ru/hotels/paraiso; ul Turgeneva 32a; s/d from R2200/2500; 
iW)
This inviting mini-hotel comes over all country lodge, with ivy creeping over its old German-stye walls and a delightful garden. Rooms are simple and comfortable, there's a small sauna, and the attached restaurant serves wholesome Russian and German meals.
Hotel DonaHOTEL$$
(Отель Дона
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-351 612; http://ageevgroup.ru/hotels/dona; pl Marshala Vasilevskogo 2; s/d from R2700/3500; aW)
This modern, mirrored manse is hard to miss, and you'll be glad you didn't. The Dona has a fantastic location in a pretty part of town, English-speaking staff, good buffet breakfasts and the wonderful restaurant Dolce Vita. See-through glass doors to the rooms' toilets are an interesting design touch.
Villa SeverinGUESTHOUSE$$
(Вилла Северин
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-365 385; www.villa-severin.ru; ul Leningradskaya 9a; r R2700-3500; aiW)
This villa looks like a doll's house, with an adorable garden and lovely setting by Upper Pond to match. There are a half-dozen comfortably furnished rooms, including one simple student room (R1300 without breakfast). It also has a small sauna and cafe.
Hotel KaiserhofHOTEL$$$
(Отель Кайзерхоф
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-592 222; www.kaiserhof-hotel.com/en; ul Oktyabrskaya 6a; s/d from R5000/6000; aiW
s)
Part of the Fish Village development, this nicely designed and furnished hotel has light-filled rooms and a full-service spa and sauna. Rates are lower from Friday to Sunday.
5Eating
Head to the lively Central Market (Центральный рынок
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Chernyakhovskogo; h8am-6pm) for self-catering and engrossing people-watching.
First CoffeeINTERNATIONAL$
(Фёст
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-616 210; www.a-kovalsky.ru/project/first; Teatralnaya ul 30; mains R200-300; h9am-10pm; W)
This combo restaurant and cafe on the northern edge of the Europe shopping centre, overlooking pl Pobedy, is a lunchtime lifesaver in a busy part of town. The long menu is filled with appetising salads, pizzas, sandwiches, grills and, of course, decent cakes and coffee. The pavement terrace is a fun perch for people-watching.
Borsch & SaloRUSSIAN, UKRAINIAN$$
(Борщ и Сало
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-357 676; www.borshsalo.ru; pl Pobedy 10; meals R300-500; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
Decked out like a Ukrainian hut, this cosy cafe has all the delicious, fattening treats you'd expect from its name, which translates loosely as 'borsch and bacon'. In addition to a wide range of Russian and Ukrainian dishes, the restaurant has a huge variety of flavoured brandies; if you're nice, they might even give you one on the house.
Madame BoucherFRENCH$$
(Мадам Буше
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-921-619 2595; ul Oktyabrskaya 2a; mains R300-500; hMon-Sat 10am-11pm, Sun 11am-8pm)
The specialities are sweet and savoury crêpes at this French-themed riverfront restaurant at the northern end of Fish Village, though the homemade cakes are enormous and also highly recommended, as are the lunch and dinner mains centred on fish and steaks. Dine out on the terrace or under the chandeliers in the lavish but tiny interior. Reservations highly recommended.
ZaryaRUSSIAN, EUROPEAN$$
(Заря
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-300 388; pr Mira 43; mains R300-500; h10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
This fashionable brasserie in the Scala cinema lobby is beautifully decorated and has an attractive outdoor area. A popular hang-out for pre- and post-movie nibbles, it whips up everything from steak and seafood to the unutterably sinful deep-fried camembert.
Moskva-BerlinRUSSIAN$$
(Москва-Берлин
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-352 285; www.moskwa-berlin.ru; pr Mira 19-21; mains R200-500; h8am-2am; W)
This upscale diner, complete with banquette seating along the windows, is a trendy pick for lunch or dinner. Pour over a menu of burgers, steaks, pasta and sushi at reasonable prices and settle in for good food and good times. There are decent cakes and homemade ice cream for dessert. The central location, across from the Kaliningrad Zoo, is convenient.
ParmesanITALIAN$$
(Пармезан
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-313 137; www.britannicaproject.ru; ul Karla Marksa 18; mains R300-500; hnoon-1am; Wc)
Excellent ingredients and attention to detail in the pizzas, pastas and grill dishes move this self-described trattoria a notch up over the usual pizza and pasta joints around town. There are minders on hand for the kids, and the outdoor terrace is the perfect spot for the adults to relax over a glass of wine and a grilled calamari appetiser.
Ashman ParkRUSSIAN, UZBEK$$
(Ашман Парк
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-770 203; www.otel39.ru/kafe/kafe-ashman-park; ul Gertsena 1a; mains R300-600; hnoon-2am; W)
The northern section of Kaliningrad is notoriously short of good restaurants, and this hybrid Russian-Uzbek-Italian option stands out as the best around. The chef appears equally adept at turning out very good Russian borsch, pizza or Central Asian–style minced-lamb kebabs. Our only quibble is the long prep time for meals. Reservations recommended.
Solar StoneSEAFOOD$$
(Солнечный камень
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-539 106; www.sun-stone.ru; Rossgarten Gate; mains R400-800; hnoon-2am)
Housed in the Rossgarten Gate ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), this period-themed place specialises in upmarket seafood, though it does have other options on the menu. The skylighted, red-brick dining room is handsome and suited to special occasions. In nice weather, it's possible to eat outdoors towards the back.
KhmelRUSSIAN$$
(Хмель
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-593 377; pl Pobedy 10; mains R300-500; hnoon-1am; W)
Situated in a shopping centre bordering central pl Pobedy, Khmel is a popular lunch spot. The interior resembles a brewery, with exposed pipes and brick walls. The ambitious menu draws from around Russia and features fish, caviar, duck, pork and just about everything else. There are four types of home-brewed beer, including an excellent dark, and kvas (fermented rye-bread water) that's slightly alcoholic.
BaklazhanRUSSIAN$$
(Баклажан
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-357 575; ul Professora Baranova 40; meals R300-500; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W)
One of the better eating options in the immediate area of central pl Pobedy, this cafe, restaurant and club (depending on the hour) offers dependable Russian and international dishes, including very good soups, salads and steaks. There's a covered terrace in nice weather. Come back for cocktails after dark.
Cheshskiy traktir 'U Gasheka'CZECH$$
(Чешский трактир 'У Гашека'
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-919 182; www.ugasheka.ru; Leninsky pr 1; mains R300-500; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; W)
The Czech Republic seems to hold a special place in the hearts of Kaliningrad residents, or at least Czech beer. Named after the author of classic Czech WWI novel The Good Soldier Švejk, this popular restaurant promises Czech beer on tap and Central European staples like roast pork and sausages, though the food is more filling than memorable.
BrittanicaINTERNATIONAL$$
(Британника
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-313 101; www.britannicaproject.ru; ul Karla Marksa 18; mains R300-600; hnoon-1am; W)
Reservations are absolutely essential at this bustling English-pub-themed spot in a quiet residential neighbourhood west of the centre. The appeal is understandable: very good home-brewed beer, excellent grills, big salads and an airy terrace that's perfect on a warm summer night. There's a second branch, at ul Gorkogo 2, not far from the city's Central Market.
oFish ClubSEAFOOD$$$
(Рыбный клуб
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Oktyabrskaya 4a; mains R500-1500; hnoon-midnight; W)
For a seafood splurge with a view, this classy waterfront restaurant cannot be beaten. Everything on the menu is fresh and elegantly prepared, and the service is the best in the city. If you're not supping in the sunshine, ask for a table near the aquarium.
Dolce VitaEUROPEAN, RUSSIAN$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-351 612; http://ageevgroup.ru/restaurants/dolche-vita; pl Marshala Vasilevskogo 2; mains R500-1200; hnoon-midnight; W
v)
One of a handful of destination restaurants in Kaliningrad, the Dolce Vita is located adjacent to the Hotel Dona. Many of the inventive dishes appear overly fussy on the menu, but the competent chef makes them work. There’s an excellent selection for vegetarians, superb seafood and divine pastas. Reservations recommended. Dine on the terrace in nice weather.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oHarry Johnson’s BarCOCKTAIL BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-911-450 6655; https://vk.com/harryjohnson; pr Mira 10-12; h24hr)
Easily Kaliningrad's best cocktail bar, Harry Johnson's has the cred to back it up. It's named for the author (and possible Königsberg native) of the earliest Bartenders' Manual, first published in the US in 1882. As you'd expect, there are expertly prepared cocktails and bar snacks, served in a relaxed setting.
KvartiraCAFE
(Квартира
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %962-269 4200; ul Serzhanta Koloskova 13; h8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-11pm Sat & Sun; W)
Hiding on the ground floor of an apartment block, Kvartira is unquestionably one of Kaliningrad's coolest hang-outs. Lined with a fascinating range of pop-culture books, CDs, records and DVDs, all for sale or rent (as is everything else, including the stylish furniture), Kvartira – which means 'apartment' – also serves drinks and snacks.
WB17DBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-571 807; ul Yanalova 17d; h9pm-6am Thu-Sun)
The 'WB' in the name stands for 'whiskey bar', and there certainly is a huge range of the liquor at this super-slick nightspot. Frock up and bring all the attitude you can muster; there are no wallflowers here. Cover charge from R60.
LabyrinthCAFE
(Лабиринт
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Orekhovaya 7-19; 1st hr R120, per min R2; h11am-1pm Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat; W)
This popular 'anticafe' – where you pay for the time but not for snacks and drinks – offers free wi-fi, hot drinks, billiards, ping-pong and a slew of table and video games. The entrance is on the park-side of the building.
Magiya KofeCAFE
(Магия кофе
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-509 704; ul Oktyabrskaya 4; h10am-11pm)
This handy riverfront cafe serves above-average coffees, plus the usual range of cakes and sweets, beer, wine and soft drinks. They also do good salads and light bites. Try to arrive at off-meal times to grab a coveted terrace table.
AmsterdamCLUB
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-353 306; 38/11 Litovsky val; hnoon-6pm Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri, 10pm-6am Sat; W)
This large, alternative, gay-friendly club is in an old brick building 200m west off Litovsky val (also accessible via per Griga). The cover charge is R500. During the week, the club morphs into a cafe-restaurant with a daily, good-value business lunch (R300).
VerfWINE BAR
(Верфь
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Oktyabrskaya 4a; h11am-midnight; W)
This relaxed wine bar has outdoor tables overlooking Kaliningrad Cathedral. It screens movies and provides coloured pencils and paper for doodling.
Kruassan CafeCAFE
(Круассан-кафе
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-389 462; www.kruassan.com; pr Mira 84; h8am-11pm; W)
This pr Mira branch is one of a number of 'Croissant Cafe' outlets scattered around the city. It's a reliable stop for a decent coffee as well as very good cakes, sweets, ice cream, sandwiches and, yes, croissants. The wine selection is surprisingly good for a coffee shop.
Cafe 'Laundry'CAFE
(GS Coffee;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-906-230 0595; https://vk.com/gscoffeeshop; pr Mira 74-76; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)
This tiny third-gen roaster is certainly in the running for the city's best coffee. Grab a to-go cup or take a seat in the small drinking room. The baristas specialise in AeroPress or more traditional filtered coffees, though they'll prepare it any way you please.
3Entertainment
oClub VagonkaLIVE MUSIC
(Клуб Вагонка
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-956 677; www.vagonka.net; Stanochnaya ul 12; h11pm-5am Fri & Sat)
Housed in a former German church about 3km from the city centre, Vagonka is one of the city's oldest and most popular venues for live rock, dance parties and general carousing. Performances take place in one of two concert halls, the biggest of which holds around 1000 people. Check the website for the current schedule.
Philharmonic HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
(Филармония
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %tickets 4012-647 890; www.kenigfil.ru; ul Bogdana Khmelnitskogo 61a; tickets from R250; hbox office 10.30am-7pm)
This beautifully restored neo-Gothic church has excellent acoustics, perfect for organ concerts, chamber-music recitals and the occasional symphony orchestra.
Drama TheatreTHEATRE
(Театр драмы и комедии
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %box office 4012-212 422; www.dramteatr39.ru; pr Mira 4; tickets from R300; hbox office 11am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
Several plays staged here are included in the program of the annual Baltic Season (www.baltseasons.ru; hSep-Dec).
Club PlanetaLIVE MUSIC
(Планета
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-533 809; www.rk-planeta.ru; ul Chernyakhovskogo 26; hnoon-3am)
Planeta is not just a club, it's an entertainment complex with a ground-floor restaurant, and the upper floors given over, depending on the night, to DJ dance music, karaoke and occasional live concerts. The central location, just a block away from pl Pobedy, is a big draw. Check the website for concerts and events.
Club PlatinumLIVE MUSIC
(Kлуб 'Platinum'
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-384 848; www.club-platinum.ru; ul Dmitriya Donskogo 19; concerts from R400; h11pm-5.30am Fri & Sat)
There are regular appearances by popular rock and indie acts at this heaving, upscale dance club. Dress up to get through the front door. Check the website for concerts on during your visit.
House of ArtsARTS CENTRE
(Дом Искусств
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-643 747; www.domiskusstv.com; Leninsky pr 155; hbox office 10am-7pm)
The varied repertoire here features musical theatre, modern dance, ballet, classical music and children's performances. Check the website to see if something interesting is on during your visit. Buy tickets at the venue box office.
Puppet TheatrePUPPET THEATRE
(Tеатр Kукол/Teatr Kukol
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %tickets 4012-214 335; www.teatrkukol39.ru; pr Pobedy 1a; R200; hbox office 10am-5pm Fri-Sun; c)
Performances are held on Saturdays and Sundays at noon in the 19th-century Lutheran Queen Luisa Church.
7Shopping
You can hardly move in Kaliningrad without someone trying to sell you souvenirs made of amber – the hard resin of coniferous trees that grew in the region approximately 45 to 50 million years ago. Around 90% of the world’s amber hails from the region. The region’s sanatoriums even offer 'amber therapy', said to combat fatigue and other health disorders.
oKaliningrad Amber FactoryJEWELLERY
(Калининградский янтарный комбинат
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.ambercombine.ru; ul Oktyabrskaya 2; h10am-9pm)
Easily the biggest and best of several amber shops along the riverfront promenade in Fish Village. Counters full of amber stones, necklaces, bracelets and pendants at all price points. Enter from the river or the street-side of the building.
8Information
Emergency Hospital (Городская больница скорой медицинской помощи
GOOGLE MAP
; %emergency 4012-466 989; https://bsmp-39.ru; ul A Nevskogo 90; h24hr)
Main Post Office (Почта
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-219 868; www.pochta.ru; ul Kosmonavta Leonova 22; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) Located about 400m north of pr Mira. There's also a post office (Почта России
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-536 731; ul Chernyakhovskogo 32; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) near the Central Market.
Baltma Tours (
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-931 931; www.baltma.ru; 4th fl, pr Mira 94; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) The multilingual staff here can arrange visas, accommodation, city tours and local excursions.
Konigsberg.ru (www.konigsberg.ru) Useful website with loads of info on visas, hotels and what's on in Kaliningrad.
Regional Tourism Information Centre (
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-957 980, 4012-555 200; www.visit-kaliningrad.ru; pr Mira 4; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat May-Sep, 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat Oct-Apr) Helpful, English-speaking staff and lots of information on the region.
Royal Castle (
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-350 782; www.kaliningradinfo.ru; Hotel Kaliningrad, Leninsky pr 81; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat; W) Access the internet and book tours to the Curonian Spit (Kurshskaya Kosa) and elsewhere.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Khrabrovo Airport (Аэропорт Храброво/KGD
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-610 620; www.kgd.aero) is 24km north of the city. Aeroflot and other Russian airlines offer several daily flights to Moscow's main airports as well as to St Petersburg and a handful of other Russian cities. Outside of Russia, service is available to Minsk, Warsaw, Riga and Barcelona.
Boat
Trans-Exim (Транс-Эксим
GOOGLE MAP
; %ferries 4012-660 470; www.transexim.ru; ul Suvorova 45; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri) has weekly car ferries between Baltiysk and Ust-Luga, 150km west of St Petersburg. See the website for the latest prices and schedules.
Bus
Kaliningrad has excellent local bus services to cities and towns around Kaliningrad province as well as to a handful of major cities in nearby countries, including Lithuania, Poland, Latvia and Germany. International services are operated by two main coach companies: Ecolines (
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-758 733; www.ecolines.net; ul Zheleznodorozhnaya 7; h9.30am-10pm) and Könnig Avto (
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-999 199; www.kenigauto.com). Nearly all buses, both local and international, depart from the South Bus Station (Автовокзал Южный, Yuzhny Bus Station
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Zheleznodorozhnaya 7), though some coaches may use the city’s International Bus Station (Международный Автовокзал Калининград
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-999 199; www.kenigauto.com; Moskovsky pr 184).
Buses are the easiest and often quickest way of reaching the main resorts on the Baltic Sea coast, including Yantarny (R100, 1½ hours, hourly), Svetlogorsk (R80, one hour, every 30 minutes) and Zelenogradsk (R60, 45 minutes, every 30 minutes), as well as to Chernyakhovsk (R150, two hours, six daily). Many, but not all buses, also stop at a small bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ) next to the North Train Station on Sovetsky pr. Buy tickets at station ticket windows or directly from the driver.
Train
All long-distance and most local trains arrive at and depart from the Main Train Station (Южный вокзал, Yuzhny Vokzal
GOOGLE MAP
; http://eng.rzd.ru; Zheleznodorozhnaya ul 15/23; h5am-11pm). Some trains also pass through (but always stop at) the smaller but more centrally located North Train Station (Северный вокзал, Severny Vokzal
GOOGLE MAP
; http://eng.rzd.ru; pl Pobedy 4a).
The train is a viable option for traveling to Svetlogorsk and Zelenogradsk, both of which have quick and frequent train services with the capital. Buy tickets at train station ticket counters.
Local trains run on local time, but those that travel beyond the region to Moscow and St Petersburg have their arrival and departure times listed in Moscow time; if a Moscow-bound train is scheduled to depart at 10am, it will leave at 9am Kaliningrad time.
8Getting Around
Kaliningrad is a sprawling city and the public-transport network of buses, trams and trolleybuses is useful for getting around. Buy tickets (R18) from on-board conductors. Taxis are relatively cheap; getting between destinations within the city will cost R200 to R300. Taxi Kaliningrad (%4012-585 858; www.taxi-kaliningrad.ru) is a reliable operator.
Bus 244E (R80, 45 minutes) shuttles between the airport and the South Bus Station, or you can order a taxi at kiosks stationed at the airport exit. A taxi to/from the airport is about R600.
Car rental is available from City-Rent (
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-509 191; www.city-rent39.com; pr Mira 26; h9am-9pm), which also has a branch at the airport. Rates start at R1900 per day.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
CHERNYAKHOVSK ЧЕРНЯХОВСК
The former Prussian city of 'Insterburg' was founded by Teutonic Knights in 1336. Kaliningrad's second-largest city was thoroughly trashed during WWII. All that remains of its former grandeur are two ruined castles: Georgenburg (Замок Георгенбург
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Tsentralnaya; tours R200; h10am-5pm) and Insterburg (Замок Инстербург
GOOGLE MAP
; %40141-32 424; ul Zamkovaya 1; entry by donation; h8.30am-8pm). The estate of the former, about 3km north of Chernyakhovsk's town centre, now nudges the Georgenburg Stud Farm (
GOOGLE MAP
; %40141-22 929, 40141-23 469; www.georgenburg.com; ul Tsentralnaya 18; tours per person R200; h9am-6pm) and its attached hotel (
GOOGLE MAP
; %40141-23 501; www.georgenburg.com; ul Tsentralnaya 10; s/d from R2200/3000). Tranken horses have been bred at this impressive complex since 1812. The farm is also the location of the Georgenburg Cup, an international show-jumping tournament, typically held on the second weekend in September.
If horses aren't your thing stay at the cute Pivnoy Dvor (Пивной Двор
GOOGLE MAP
; %40141-34 627; ul Suvorova 14; d R1500; 
pW), opposite St Michael’s Cathedral, one of Chernyakhovsk's last remaining examples of pre-WWII architecture. Akvatoria (Акватория
GOOGLE MAP
; %40141-35 577; ul Lenina 11a; meals R250-500; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) is a perfect in-town option for lunch or dinner, and the menu has something for everyone.
Chernyakhovsk's bus station is located at the southern end of ul Lenina, about 500m from the centre of the city. Buses and minibuses (R150, two hours, every 30 minutes) run to and from Kaliningrad's South Bus Station.
Yantarny Янтарный
%401532 / Population 5524 / Time Moscow –1hr
Formerly known as Palmniken, the peaceful resort of Yantarny (Янтарный), 42km northwest of Kaliningrad and 24km southwest of Svetlogorsk, boasts arguably the nicest sandy beach in Kaliningrad. It's got a lovely seaside park and promenade and feels worlds away from the bustle of Kaliningrad city. It also happens to be the spot where 90% of the world's amber is sourced, and with some advanced booking it's possible to visit the amber mine and processing centre.
1Sights & Activities
While Yantarny's beach may be beautiful, the short swimming season runs most years only from July through August. There are public toilets at the beach, as well as scattered cafes to grab something to eat.
Another swimming option, with warmer water and easier waves, is at Yantarny Lake (Yantarnoe Ozero), a former quarry located 1km northeast of the town centre. There's a small beach adjacent to the Hotel Valtr. The lake, with crystal-clear water and a depth of up to 26m, also offers some of the best diving in Kaliningrad, and a couple of companies offer the chance to do so.
Diving is another possibility: contact the diving clubs Poseidon 39 (
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-906-238 6306; www.poseidon39.ru; Yantarny Lake) or Demersus (
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-909-775 3222; www.demersus.ru; ul Ozernaya 1).
Becker ParkPARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Sovetskaya 70)F
Enjoy a picnic in this park that stretches along the headland above the beach in the centre of Yantarny. Enter from behind the Schloss Hotel.
Kaliningrad Amber PlantMINE
(Калининградский янтарный комбинат
GOOGLE MAP
; %tours 40153-37 444; www.ambercombine.ru; ul Balebina 1; R180; hguided tours on the hour 9-11am & 1-4pm)
The Kaliningrad Amber Plant offers tours of its amber-processing facility, including a view of an amber mill, an observation deck and the chance to see an enormous 'Amber Pyramid', a huge structure made of 800kg of amber. Visits are by guided tour (Russian only), which leave on the hour throughout the day. Tickets can be bought on-site, though it's best to call or email in advance.
zFestivals & Events
AmberfestMUSIC
(www.amberfest.ru; hAug)
Celebrate the solar stone each August with amber-centric events and live music on the beach.
4Sleeping
GaleraBUNGALOW$$
(Галера
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-929-166 6061; www.a-kovalsky.ru; ul Sovetskaya 1; bungalows from R3000)
These mega-modern beach bungalows, stacked one on top of the other like cubes, are located on the far northern end of Yantarny's beach and offer pretty sea views from huge glass doors. They have self-contained kitchens, or you can eat at the nearby Galera restaurant (open 11am to 11pm Sunday to Thursday, to 4am Friday and Saturday), shaped like a huge ship.
oSchloss HotelHOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-555 040; www.schloss-hotel.ru; ul Sovetskaya 70; s/d from R6800/8000; aWs)
This decadent hotel offers elegance to the max. Its renovated, snow-white mansion was once the hunting lodge of Prussian King George Friedrich and today houses luxurious rooms (some with plunge baths and balconies), a sophisticated spa, upmarket bar and restaurant (
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-555 040; www.schloss-hotel.ru; ul Sovetskaya 70; mains R600-1000; h11am-10pm; W) and a summer terrace with sea views.
Becker HotelHOTEL$$$
(Отель Беккер
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-565 195; www.hotel-becker.ru; ul Sovetskaya 72; s/d incl breakfast from R4000/6000; W)
The Becker, a quick stroll to the beach and Becker Park, has a vaguely antiseptic feel (like a spa or hospital) but pleasantly furnished rooms; some have balconies. The attached Becker Restaurant (Беккер
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-565 195; www.hotel-becker.ru; ul Sovetskaya 72; mains R400-600; hnoon-11pm; W) has a terrace overlooking the seaside. The hotel stands at the southern end of Yantarny, 400m beyond the town entrance if arriving by bus from Kaliningrad.
8Getting There & Away
Bus 120 runs to Yantarny from Kaliningrad (R100, 1½ hours, hourly). Buses 286 runs to Yantarny from Svetlogorsk (R50, one hour, four daily).
Note that there's no central bus station in Yantarny. Rather, buses stop at around 200m intervals along ul Sovetskaya. Tell the bus driver or conductor the name of your hotel to get off at the closest stop.
Svetlogorsk Светлогорск
%40153 / Population 10,772 / Time Moscow –1hr
Known as Rauschen until 1947, Svetlogorsk (Светлогорск) is a peaceful, slow-paced spa town, 40km northwest of Kaliningrad. The narrow beach, backed by steep, sandy slopes, is nothing to speak of, but the pretty old German houses, revamped sanatoriums, top-class hotels and dappled forest setting make it worth a visit. Fairly untouched by WWII, Svetlogorsk has benefited from being declared a federal health resort, with good infrastructure and facilities.
1Sights
Svetlogorsk's swimming season runs from early July through August. The best beach is west of the Grand Palace hotel. To find it, follow per Beregovoy down from ul Lenina, turning left at the sea. The seafront promenade runs for about 2km; it's a pretty 30-minute stroll.
Svetlogorsk is spread out but easy to navigate on foot or by bicycle: rent bikes from the Svetlogorsk Tourist Information Centre (
GOOGLE MAP
; %40153-22 098; www.svetlogorsk-tourism.ru; ul Karla Marksa 7a; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; W).
Herman Brachert House-MuseumMUSEUM
(Дом-музей Германа Брахерта
GOOGLE MAP
; %40153-21 166; www.brachert.ru; ul Tokareva 7; R150; h10am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
This museum features the work of Herman Brachert (1890–1972), the sculptor whose work can be spotted all around Svetlogorsk; his bronze Nymph statue ( GOOGLE MAP ) resides in a mosaic-decorated shell on the promenade. His small former home is decorated with more of his pieces and other works by contemporary sculptors. Head around 2km west along the main road from Svetlogorsk II train station to reach the suburb of Otradnoe.
Water TowerTOWER
( GOOGLE MAP ; Kurortnaya ul 1)
The elaborate 25m-high water tower just off ul Lenina is the symbol of Svetlogorsk. The tower was designed in a vaguely art nouveau style by architect Otto Walter Kukuck in 1908. The interior is closed to the general public.
Model of Medieval KönigsbergSCULPTURE
(
GOOGLE MAP
)F
This sandbox-sized model of early-16th-century Königsberg is well worth the 200m walk west of the Svetlogorsk Tourist Information Centre along ul Gorkogo to see more than 500 buildings faithfully reconstructed, including the old Royal Castle and Cathedral. Find it beneath some trees across the street from the Dom Skazochnika hotel.
SundialMONUMENT
(
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Morskaya, Seafront Promenade)F
On the promenade, this impressive sundial is decorated with an eye-catching mosaic of the zodiac.
4Sleeping
Most rates for Svetlogorsk accommodation include breakfast and are for the July/August season; prices can drop by a third or more at other times.
oDom SkazochnikaGUESTHOUSE$$
(Дом Сказочника
GOOGLE MAP
; %40153-22 396; www.hoffmann-house.ru; Skazochnika Gofmana per 2; s/d from R2800/3800, breakfast R200)
The name means 'House of the Storyteller', and what a fairy-tale place this is. Named in honour of fantasist Ernst Hoffman, this enchanting guesthouse has a Babes in the Woods setting, an art gallery and a delightful miniature sculpture garden. High-ceilinged rooms are comfortable, the service is superb and the attached restaurant is wonderful.
Stary DoktorHOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %40153-21 362; www.alterdoktor.ru; ul Gagarina 12; d from R3500, attic with shared bathroom R2500)
Set in an atmospheric 19th-century sanctuary in a graceful residential neighbourhood, this place oozes ye olde charm. Rooms are simple and cosy.
Hotel GeorgensvaldyeHOTEL$$
(Георгенсвальде
GOOGLE MAP
; %40153-21 526; www.walde.ru; ul Tokareva 6; r from R3500)
In the village of Otradnoe, about 2km west of Svetlogorsk, this historic four-storey hotel stands opposite the Herman Brachert House-Museum. It's an elegant place, with a gazebo and gardens, and ideal for those seeking peace and quiet.
Lumier Art HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(Люмьер Арт-отель
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-507 750; www.hotellumier.ru; per Lermontovsky 2a; standard/theme r from R5000/6000, breakfast R550; aW)
This playful boutique hotel has silver-screen-themed rooms ranging from Little Red Riding Hood to Gone With the Wind. Even the standard rooms come with cable TV and DVD players. Many rooms have balconies. The rooms at the back of the hotel are quieter.
Royal Falke Resort & SpaHOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %40153-21 600; www.falke-hotel.ru; ul Lenina 1b; s/d from R5200/6200; aiWs)
This luxurious hotel is a good choice for pampering. Its indoor pool, surrounded by landscaping and murals, is big enough for a decent swim. Families with small children are exceptionally well taken care of here, with everything from babysitters to bottle warmers available.
5Eating
Svetlogorsk lacks standout restaurants. The seafront promenade and the main drag, ul Lenina, are lined with pizza and kebab joints.
KruassanINTERNATIONAL$
(Круассан-кафе, Croissant Cafe
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-389 469; www.kruassan.com; ul Lenina 33a; mains R150-300; h9am-11pm)
This popular bakery-cafe next to the Svetlogorsk II train station serves excellent coffee, with daily breakfasts until 2pm and comfy outdoor tables to watch the world go by. Lunch and dinner offerings include a wide variety of soups, salads and sandwiches, as well as more ambitious fish and chicken dishes.
Dom RybakaSEAFOOD$$
(Дом Рыбака
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-909-790 9222; per Beregovoy 1; mains R400-600; hnoon-11pm)
A pretty seaside setting and good fish dishes are a winning combination at one of the few above-average restaurants in town. Excellent fish soup, a scrumptious baked halibut and a long list of other fish-based mains (plus a few chicken and beef options) are the main drawcards. The dining room is simple but cosy; there are outside tables in summer.
Novy OchagARMENIAN$$
(Новый очаг
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-906-211 0371; Oktyabrskaya ul 19; mains R300-400; h11am-midnight)
The food is only so-so at this Armenian-inflected grill restaurant, just off ul Lenina, but the pretty setting, on a bluff overlooking the sea, is ample reason to stop by. Most diners opt for one of the big fish, pork or chicken kebabs, but there are lots of soups and salads on the menu, plus a long wine list.
3Entertainment
Organ HallCONCERT VENUE
(Зал Органной музики GOOGLE MAP ; www.organhall.ru; ul Kurortnaya 3)
Svetlogorsk's organ-recital hall began life as a Prussian Catholic church. It fell into disrepair and was rebuilt for its current purpose in the mid-1990s. In season (May to September), daily organ concerts take place at noon and 8pm. Tickets range from R400 to R600 and can be purchased at the venue box office.
8Getting There & Away
From Kaliningrad take a train (R70, one hour, at least six daily) or bus (R80, one hour, every 30 minutes). Kaliningrad buses arrive at and depart from the bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ) in front of the Svetlogorsk II train station. The bus stops for Yantarny ( GOOGLE MAP ) (R50, one hour, four daily) and Zelenogradsk ( GOOGLE MAP ) (R60, one hour, four daily) are on pr Kaliningradsky, facing Lake Tikhoe.
Zelenogradsk Зеленоградск
%40150 / Population 13,026 / Time Moscow –1hr
The long beach that gave Zelenogradsk (Зеленоградск; formerly known as 'Kranz') the status of a royal bathing resort for the Kingdom of Prussia is still the town’s prime attraction. It’s a low-key place with a nostalgic atmosphere: crumbling Soviet eyesores, lovely German buildings and modern villas stand side by side. Renovation of the promenade has been going on for years, but it's still possible to enjoy a seaside perambulation. In addition to the beach, Zelenogradsk is the gateway to Kurshskaya Kosa (Curonian Spit) National Park.
1Sights
MurrariumMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-31 020; www.murarium.ru; ul Saratovskaya 2a; adult/child R280/230; hnoon-7pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in an old brick water tower, the Murrarium features the largest private collection of cat-themed art in all of Russia, a feline-fixated country if there ever was one. There are more than 3500 pieces on display, some kitsch, some comely; even if you're not a cat person, the views from the tower make a visit worthwhile.
4Sleeping
High season is in July and August and most rates include breakfast. Book well in advance as the town fills up during these months.
oButik Hotel 12BOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-51 313; ul Lenina 32a; s/d R3400/4000; pW)
Who would have imagined such a smart boutique hotel in Zelenogradsk? The stylish, minimalist design features a lobby awash in colour and light. The rooms pick up the theme with light woods, splashes of bright colour and big windows. The location is 700m west of the bus and train stations, and 60m from the beach. There's an excellent on-site restaurant.
Koshkin DomGUESTHOUSE$$
(Кошкин Дом
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-33 546; www.koshkin-dom.ru; ul Gagarina 1a; s/d from R2600/3800; pWs)
Zelenogradsk's famous 'Cat House' is a welcoming, homey spot 50m from the beach. Though it looks like a towering mansion from the street, there are only 10 rooms, including one well-priced single. In addition to the cornucopia of cat figurines and artworks, there’s also a sauna, swimming pool, barbecue area and billiards room. Bike rental is R100 per hour.
Hotel SambiaHOTEL$$$
(Отель Самбия
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-36 221; www.sambiahotel.com; ul Volodarskogo 20; r from R4200; paWs)
The biggest hotel in Zelenogradsk and one of the best, this family-friendly complex has two restaurants, a spa, billiards room and mini water park. It occupies a prominent spot at the eastern end of the seafront promenade and is popular with families. Some rooms have balconies with sea views. Find it 1km east of the bus and rail stations.
Crystal HotelHOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-29 333; www.crystalhotel.ru; ul Gagarina 19a; s/d R3000/5000; W)
The Crystal offers some of the cheapest in-season rooms and is also a nice place to bunk down. Some of the rooms, particularly on the upper floors, offer sea views. There's also a decent restaurant and spa on the premises. It's located about 50m inland from the beach and about 600m west of the bus and train stations.
Villa LanaGUESTHOUSE$$$
(Вилла Лана
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-33 410; www.villa-lana.ru; ul Gagarina 3a; s/d/apt R5400/5600/6800; W)
This professionally run guesthouse just 50m from the beach offers spacious, nicely decorated rooms, plus a separate self-catering apartment that sleeps four. Helpful staff speak six languages and can help arrange tours and airport transfers.
5Eating
AmbarRUSSIAN, POLISH$$
(Амбар
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-981-470 8002; www.ambar2010.ru; ul Volodarskogo 30; mains R300-500; h11am-midnight)
Considered the best of many restaurants on the seafront promenade, Ambar sits on the far eastern end of the beach. It's meant to evoke a seafront log cabin. The menu is filled with grilled meats and fish dishes, with several Polish and Lithuanian mains on the menu, as well as very good Lithuanian beer. Book in advance.
Captain FlintTAVERNA$$
(Капитан Флинт
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-32 459; www.taverna-flinta.ru; Kurortniy per 1; mains R300-400; hnoon-2am)
An informal tavern-style restaurant that's dolled up in all matters mariner. It's situated away from the seafront promenade, so it's often easier to find a seat here than at places closer to the beach. Serves above-average kebabs and grilled meats, as well as lots of fish dishes and salads.
8Getting There & Away
Frequent buses run to and from Kaliningrad (R60, 45 minutes, every 30 minutes) from a small bus station in the centre of town, located next to the train station. Buses also leave from here to Svetlogorsk (R60, around one hour, four daily), with onward service to Yantarny (R100, around two hours).
At least five minibuses per day make the run from the bus station to the main towns on the Curonian Spit (Kurshskaya Kosa). All minibuses stop in Lesnoy (R30, 15 minutes), Rybachy (R75, 30 minutes) and Morskoe (R100, 45 minutes). These buses fill to the gills in summer, so check the timetable posted at the station and turn up well in advance of the departure time to get a seat.
Regular trains run to and from Kaliningrad (R60, 40 minutes, several daily).
Kurshskaya Kosa Куршская Коса
%40150 / Time Moscow –1hr
Tall, windswept dunes, pristine beaches and dense pine forests teeming with wildlife lie along the 98km-long Curonian Spit (Kurshskaya Kosa; Куршская Коса), a Unesco World Heritage Site that divides the Baltic Sea (to the west) from the tranquil Curonian Lagoon (on the eastern side). The 50km of the spit within Russian territory (the rest is in Lithuania) constitutes Kurshskaya Kosa National Park (Национальный парк Куршская коса
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-45 119; www.park-kosa.ru; per person/car R50/300). The park is home to the highest drifting dunes in Europe, with some reaching a lofty 60m. Mellow fishing and holiday villages dot the eastern coast (along the lagoon). From south to north they are Lesnoy (Лесной; formerly Sarkau), Rybachy (Рыбачий; formerly Rossitten) and Morskoe (Морское; formerly Pilkoppen).
1Sights & Activities
Epha’s HeightHIKING
(Высота Эфа GOOGLE MAP ; km42)
About 3km south of Morskoe village, this photogenic 2.8km hiking trail has boardwalks stretching from one side of the spit to the other, climaxing at the 40m-high Big Dune Ridge (Коса Большая Дюна). Along the way you'll see Europe's highest drifting dune, the 62m-high Orekhovoy Dune. If travelling by bus, tell the driver this is where you'd like to stop.
Dancing ForestFOREST
(Танцующий лес GOOGLE MAP ; km36)
One of Kurshskaya Kosa National Park’s most remarkable sights is this aptly named forest, where the pines have been sculpted into twisting shapes by the elements – they do indeed appear to be frozen mid-boogie.
National Park MuseumMUSEUM
(Национальный парк-музей
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-45 247; www.park-kosa.ru; km14; R100; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr)
This museum offers basic information about Kurshskaya Kosa National Park’s habitat and history. The complex is also home to more than 100 carved-wood mythological characters at the Museum of Russian Superstitions (Музей Русских Суеверий
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-532 907; www.park-kosa.ru; km14; h10am-5pm). Prearrange an excursion to the Fringilla Ornithological Station (Орнитологическая станция Фрингилла
GOOGLE MAP
; www.zin.ru/rybachy/index_e.html; km23; tours R100; h9am-5pm Apr-Oct), a bird-ringing centre where enormous funnelled nets can trap an average of 1000 birds a day; the birds are then tagged, studied and released.
4Sleeping
Chalet DunesCAMPGROUND$
(Турбаза Дюны
GOOGLE MAP
; %reception 40150-33 726, sales office 4012-384 320; turbazaduna39@gmail.com; km16; standard/luxury cabins R1000/1300)
These simple cabins are strictly no-frills, budget options. Frankly, the property could be maintained better, but the 'luxury' cabins are not bad for the price and it's a short walk to the beach. There's no power, but there is an authentic banya (hot bath; R1000 per hour), a social barbecue area and bracing sea breezes. It's 3km north of Lesnoy.
AltrimoHOTEL$$
(Гостиничный комплекс Альтримо
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-658-863 4012; www.altrimo.ru; ul Pogranichnaya 11, Rybachy; r/ste from R3400/5000; aW)
Rybachy's most upmarket option. Although the rooms and facilities feel dated, it has a quiet location next to the lagoon. Amenities include a pleasant open-air restaurant and a pretty garden for strolling and relaxing. It's popular with weddings and families, and there are jet-skis, kayaks and other watercraft available for rent.
Mayakovski HotelHOTEL$$$
(Mаякоvsкий
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-33 716; www.mayakovski-hotel.ru; seafront promenade, Lesnoy; r R5300-6500; aWs)
The Mayakovski feels fresh and well maintained and is easily one of the best places to stay on the Curonian Spit. It's located just off the beach in Lesnoy. The setting is a seafront cabin and the 10 rooms mix rustic elements like hardwood floors and wood-beamed walls with modern touches. There's a restaurant (
GOOGLE MAP
; %40150-33 716; www.mayakovski-hotel.ru; seafront promenade, Lesnoy; mains R400-600; h11am-11pm; W), spa and pretty pool on-site.
Walde ParkHOTEL$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %4012-400 008; www.walde-park.ru; Tsentralnaya ul 17, Lesnoy; r from R5000; paW)
This cheery, modern hotel, about 500m from the beach and close to the highway, got a major refresh in 2016 with new carpets and baths. Rooms come in several varieties, including large family-sized suites. Rooms at the back are quieter and offer garden views. There's a restaurant and the hotel rents out bicycles (R120 per hour).
8Getting There & Away
Buses depart from Zelenogradsk's bus station at roughly two-hour intervals throughout the day, calling on Lesnoy (R30, 15 minutes), Rybachy (R75, 30 minutes) and Morskoe (R100, 45 minutes). Buy tickets from the driver. There are also direct buses from Kaliningrad to Morskoe (R150, two hours, four daily), stopping at Zelenogradsk, Lesnoy and Rybachy along the way. Kaliningrad’s Regional Tourism Information Centre has the current timetable.
8Getting Around
The Curonian Spit is best explored with your own car, and it's possible to hire one in Kaliningrad (from around R1900 per day). Hotels in Zelenogradsk occasionally rent out cars as well. Ask at your reception desk.
Buses are the only public-transport option, with most of these departing from Zelenogradsk's central bus station or Kaliningrad's South Bus Station. From May to September around half a dozen buses per day move up and down the spit, at roughly two-hour intervals, making scheduled stops at Lesnoy, Rybachy and Morskoe, as well as request stops at various points along the highway. Unless you're travelling to one of the towns, tell the bus driver on entering the bus where you'd like to stop. Buy tickets from the driver.
Taxis are an expensive fallback; it's normally possible in summer to find a cab in Lesnoy or Rybachy. Expect to pay R300 for the ride back to Zelenogradsk; the ride from Rybachy will cost around R500.