TTours

Samara IntourTOURS

(Самара Интур MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-279 2040; www.samaraintour.ru; Samarskaya ul 51; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat)

This highly professional travel agency has some staff who speak English and German. It can organise an individual tour into the bunker built for Stalin, and often runs excursions into the attractive Samara Bend region around Shiryaevo.

4Sleeping

Volga HotelHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Волга MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-242 1196; Volzhsky pr 29; incl breakfast s R2600-3000, d R3000-3800, ste R4200-4500; W)

This hotel gets knocked down in reviews for its location, at the northern end of the embankment and a 30-minute walk from the centre, but in a city that lacks affordable accommodation, it's an acceptable choice for a short stay. The renovated rooms have parquet flooring and dated but comfortable furniture. One virtue: the Zhiguli Brewery is nearby.

Holiday Inn SamaraHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-372 7000; www.ihg.com; ul Alexeya Tolstogo 99; s/d R4000/5500; iWs)

This reliable chain offering doesn't disappoint: large, clean rooms, good breakfasts and helpful multilingual staff. The central location is convenient to the Volga River and ferries. Some rooms have views out over the river.

Bristol-Zhiguli HotelHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Бристоль-Жигули MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-331 6555; www.bristol-zhiguly.ru; ul Kuybysheva 111; incl breakfast s R3000-4700, d R4400-7000, apt from R8000; niW)

This art nouveau diamond in the rough recalls Samara's heyday in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, though from the outside at least the hotel has seen better days. The ornate lobby is eye-catching. The modern rooms can't match the decor, though they are clean and comfortable, and the central location is within easy walking distance of the Volga and sights.

Hotel EuropeHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Европа MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-270 8740; www.hoteleurope.ru; Galaktionovskaya ul 171; incl breakfast s R3300-3900, d R4000-5000, apt R7670-12,900; naiWs)

This hotel is housed in a lovely, mustard-yellow mansion from 1902 and is quirky in both good and bad ways. The stairways, corridors and rooms have unmistakable period character, though many rooms are located on the upper floors and there's no lift. The reception desk is friendly, and the in-house Irish pub on the ground floor serves very good food.

5Eating

Troitsky MarketMARKET$

(Троицкий рынок MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Galaktionovskaya 27; h7am-9pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Mon, to 6pm Sun)

Stalls full of fresh fruit and veggies, and lots of fresh and smoked fish, as well as breads, meats and cheeses. Even if you're not buying, come here just to take in the piles of smoked fish on display.

oCafe PuriGEORGIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-989 3332; https://vk.com/puri63; ul Kuybysheva 79; mains R400-500; h11am-11pm; W)

This warm, welcoming restaurant offers authentic Georgian food and wine to an adoring public. Evening reservations are a must. Here's the place to sample kuchmachi (chicken innards, and walnuts and pomegranate seeds), khachapuri (fresh-baked bread filled with an egg), khinkali (meat dumplings) and many other favourites, all washed down with litres of red wine. The staff can help you choose.

oStaraya KvartiraRUSSIAN$$

(Старая квартира MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-332 2260; www.oldflat.ru; Samarskaya ul 51/53; mains R500; hnoon-midnight)

The ‘Old Flat’ is a total delight: a rabbit warren of tiny rooms all done up in peak Soviet-era kitsch. In keeping with the theme, the eclectic menu draws on old communist classics, such as the hamburger served with an egg on top, as well as more demanding fare. A meal to remember.

Cafe BenjaminAMERICAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-990 1576; www.benjamincafe.com; ul Kuybysheva 103; burgers & salads R400; h9am-midnight Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; v)

A pleasing Russian take on an American diner, chock full of cheery 1950s references and a menu that's strong on soups, salads, burgers and sandwiches. The 'Cobb' salad – with chicken breast, avocado and bacon – makes for a filling lunch in its own right. This place fills up at mealtimes, so reservations are a must.

U PalychaRUSSIAN$$

(У Палыча MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-332 3605; http://samara.palich.ru; ul Kuybysheva 100; mains R600-800)

This cellar restaurant is highly recommended for its Russian cuisine, including its pelmeni (Russian-style ravioli). There’s live Russian folk music on Thursday and Friday.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oZhiguli BreweryBREWERY

(Жигулёвское пиво MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-332 6073; www.samarabeer.ru; Volzhsky pr 4)

Samara's own Zhiguli Brewery, 2km north of the centre along the embankment, offers a couple of diverse drinking options. Most popular on a warm day is to bring an empty plastic water bottle and fill it from a small shop inside the brewery and then walk along the river. You can also purchase smoked and salted fish to eat as a snack.

There's also a pub in same complex, where you can order by the glass as well as enjoy simple pub food.

Traveler's CoffeeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-202 6008; www.travelerscoffee.ru/places/samara; ul Kuybysheva 95; h8am-midnight; W)

The perfect central spot, just off pedestrianised Leningradskaya ul, to grab a coffee or cake and connect to the web via the free (and reliable) wi-fi. It's also possible to order food, mainly salads and sandwiches, though the strong suit here is coffee.

KipyatokTEAHOUSE

(Кипяток MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-333 2720; Leningradskaya ul 40; h11am-midnight; W)

This funky upstairs space feels like a classic 19th-century Russian tearoom. Order from a long list of classic teas and coffees. It also does breakfasts until 2pm and offers a light menu of soups, salads, pelmeni, cakes and ice cream. The creative dishes are complemented by homemade kvas and freshly produced cranberry mors (fruit drink).

3Entertainment

Opera & Ballet TheatreTHEATRE

(Театр оперы и балета MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-332 2509; www.opera-samara.net; pl Kuybysheva 1; tickets R150-1000; hticket office 10am-7pm)

The main venue for ballet, classical concerts and opera.

PodvalLIVE MUSIC

(Подваль MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %846-332 9283; https://rock63.ru/podval; ul Galaktionovskaya 46; cover around R200; h7pm-3am Wed-Sun)

The 'Basement' has live rock, metal, gothic and other acts for a youngish crowd.

8Information

Sberbank ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Galaktionovskaya, opposite ul Galaktionovskaya 29; h9am-7pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 10am-7pm Wed, 9am-5pm Sat)

Post Office (Почтамт GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kuybysheva 82; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

8Getting There & Away

Air and rail tickets are available at Samara Intour.

Air

Samara's Kurumoch International Airport (KUF; GOOGLE MAP ; %846-966 5516; www.airport.samara.ru) is located 35km north of the city and is the region's busiest. It offers regular flights throughout Russia, Central Asia and Europe (Prague, Barcelona and Helsinki). A special bus runs from the airport to the centre every 20 minutes throughout the day. Buy tickets at cashiers inside the terminal. A taxi to the centre will cost from R1000 to R1200.

Boat

The river station (Речной вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %846-222 9337; http://srpp63.ru; ul Maksima Gorkogo 82) is at the west end of the embankment, in front of Hotel Rossiya. Long-distance cruises operate to various destinations along the Volga. Several cruise agencies have kiosks here. Infoflot ( GOOGLE MAP ; %846-276 7491; www.infoflot.com; river station; h9am-6pm) sells return cruises to Kazan (from R8100, three days), Ulyanovsk via Shirayevo (from R8000, three days), and Volgograd (from R16,000, five days). Book several months in advance for the cheapest berths. There are also boats to closer destinations, including Shiryaevo (about R120, 2½ hours, two daily).

Bus

The central bus station (Центральный автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %846-224 1515; http://new.avokzal63.ru; ul Avrory 207) is 7km northeast of the centre. It's reachable via marshrutky 1, 4, 30 and 37. A taxi to the centre costs R300 to R400. Watch for rush-hour traffic. A trip to/from the centre can take up to an hour.

Samara has good connections to Kazan (R900, nine hours, three daily), Syzran (R340, three hours, six daily), Tolyatti (R250, two hours, hourly) and Ulyanovsk (R550, five hours, hourly).

Train

Samara's modern railway station (Железнодорожный вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %information 800 775 0000; http://samara.dzvr.ru; pl Komsomolskaya 1) is conveniently situated in the centre of the city, about 2km east of the riverfront. It's accessible via public transportation on trams 1, 4, and 16. A taxi from the station to the centre should cost no more than R200.

The flagship Zhiguli train is fastest to Moscow (kupe R4000, 14 hours) but the most expensive. Other connections are to Saratov (kupe R1400, nine hours) and Volgograd (R2500, 16 hours). For Kazan, bus is better, and for Astrakhan book via Volgograd as direct trains pass through Kazakhstan.

8Getting Around

Most bus and marshrutky routes run straight as a nail in the central part of town, so it’s easiest just to walk to the major street to grab one (eg ul Kuybysheva to go east to pl Slavy, or ul Samarskaya for pl Samarskaya).

Uber ride-share service (www.uber.com) operates in Samara and rates are significantly cheaper than standard taxis (%846-302 0202).

Samara Bend

Samara sits on the left (eastern) bank of the Volga, while the right bank is dominated by the rocky Zhiguli Hills. The river loops around the hills, creating a peninsula encompassing 32,000 hectares of national forest reserve.

The Samara Bend National Park (Самарская Лука) is a prime area for hikes along rocky ledges and grand Volga vistas. The peaks – the highest being Strelnaya Mountain at 370m – are in the northwest corner of the reserve. These hills were the hideout of peasant rebel Stepan Razin in the 17th century.

The easiest way to reach the reserve in summer is to take a boat to any of the villages on the right bank, such as Shiryaevo. If you want to explore the area by public transport or bicycle, local hubs Tolyatti and Syzran come into the equation. Together, with Samara, they form an almost equilateral triangle and often have better connections with adjacent regions than the provincial capital.

Every year, thousands of locals raft the zhigulyovskaya krugosvetka, which translates as ‘Zhiguli round-the-world trip’. The 10-day rafting route follows the loop in the river, then cuts back up north through a channel on the west side of the park. Samara Intour sometimes organises these trips; ask ahead.

WORTH A TRIP

SHIRYAEVO ШИРЯЕВО

In the 1870s Ilya Repin spent two years in the village of Shiryaevo just north of Samara on the west bank of the Volga. Here he completed sketches for his famous painting Barge Haulers on the Volga, which is now in St Petersburg's Russian Museum. Today, this pleasant village welcomes art lovers and day trippers.

The main formal sight of the village is the Repin Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-960-841 3409; www.museum.ru/m1597; ul Sovetskaya 14, Shiryaevo; Russian/foreigner R120/200; h11am-4pm Tue-Sun) and its impressive selection of Volga River paintings, though, truth be told, most visitors come here for the chance to escape busy Samara and sample a bit of village life.

Regular boats from Samara (about R120, 2½ hours, two daily) are the best way to reach Shiryaevo. You can also reach it by bus from Tolyatti (R200, 2¾ hours, daily).

Tolyatti Тольятти

%8482 / Population 720,000 / Time Moscow

Much of the industrial city of Tolyatti, two hours by bus from Samara, was built in the 1960s and '70s to support the Soviet Union's burgeoning auto industry – particularly cars made by the ubiquitous Lada company. In those times, it was one of the most prosperous cities in the country. Recent days haven't been as kind, as increased competition from foreign producers has put pressure on domestic car-makers. Tolyatti has a local reputation for being a rough town, but the reality is a relatively peaceful city, with a couple of sights and a strategic position beside the giant Kuybyshev reservoir dam, with the Zhiguli Hills starting right across the water.

Tolyatti is a sprawling place, divided essentially into two large districts that are several kilometres away from each other. The central district – Tsentralnyy rayon – is the older of the two and sometimes called Old Town (Stary Gorod). The New Town (Novy Gorod) lies to the west. It's often referred to on maps as the Avtozavodskiy rayon (Auto District).

1Sights & Activities

Technical MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8482-726 620; Yuzhnoye sh 137; R120; h9am-5pm)

Situated in the New Town (Novy Gorod), or Avtozavodskiy rayon, and opposite the VAZ plant that makes Ladas, this museum has a vast collection of mostly military hardware, including a nuclear submarine.

Spin SportCYCLING

(Спин-Спорт GOOGLE MAP ; %8482-489 120; www.spin-sport.ru; Komsomolskoye sh 28; tennis court hire 1hr/racquet R600/100; h8am-11pm)

This is an all-year recreational resort, offering skiing and snowboarding in the winter, and a swimming pool and tennis courts in summer. The location is a pretty, forested area near the Volga, just south of the central district (Tsentralnyy rayon) of Tolyatti.

4Sleeping & Eating

Zhiguli StarHOTEL$$

(Звезда Жигулей GOOGLE MAP ; %8482-223 311; www.lada-gam.ru; ul Mira 77; incl breakfast s R3000-4000, d R3000-5000; nW)

This comfortable business hotel in the central district (Tsentralnyy rayon) is your best option if you're staying overnight. The restaurant (mains R400) is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Plan-BBURGERS$

(План-Б GOOGLE MAP ; %8482-570 101; www.planbtlt.ru; ul Yubileynaya 8; burgers R200-280; h10am-midnight; Wv)

This artisanal burger bar sticks out like a sore thumb amid the communist-era, industrialised landscape of Tolyatti, yet the burgers (and fries) are seriously good. Several sizes and combinations to choose from, and even a vegan burger. Eat inside the tiny restaurant or take away. The location is in the New Town (Novy Gorod).

IzyumCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8482-280 493; ul Gagarina 2; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; W)

Excellent coffees and cakes €/R130), as well as soups, salads and pasta dishes (mains around R300) served in a clean, contemporary setting. The location is just off the main square in the Tsentralnyy rayon – the 'central' part of the city.

8Getting There & Away

Buses go to/from Samara (R220, two hours, hourly), Ulyanovsk (R350, four hours, at least hourly) and Kazan (R700, 6½ hours, three daily). The main bus station is located in the Old Town (Stary Gorod).

8Getting Around

Taxis are the most convenient way of moving between Tolyatti's districts. Expect to pay about R250 for trips between these and less for travel within one district.

Expect to pay R150 to R200 for a taxi (%8482-70 000) from the Old Town (Stary Gorod) bus station to the Zhiguli Star hotel.

Saratov Саратов

%8452 / Population 838,000 / Time Moscow

Saratov is a laid-back place and has a bit of a seaside resort atmosphere, although it lacks major tourist attractions. The former name of ul Kirova is Nemetskaya (German), a sure sign that Saratov was once at the heart of the Volga German region. Wartime deportations spared few Volga Germans and only a handful returned here from exile, but their presence can be felt in the city’s distinctly Central European ambience.

Across the Volga river in Engels, once known as Pokrovsk when it was the capital of the Autonomous Socialist Soviet Republic of the Volga Germans, is an outstanding collection of paintings by the Volga German Yakov Veber.

The first man in space, cosmonaut Yury Gagarin, lived in Saratov and studied at the local university, which now bears his name.

1Sights

Gagarin MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Гагарина GOOGLE MAP ; %8542-237 666; ul Sakko i Vanzetti 15; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat)F

This interesting museum tells the life of the world's first man in space through photos and personal objects. Yuri Gagarin not only lived and studied in Saratov, but also landed (crashed?) his Vostok 1 capsule nearby after his much-lauded flight. The landing site, 40km out of town near the village of Kvasnikovka, is marked by a commemorative monument.

Saratov State Museum of Military GloryMUSEUM

(Саратовский Государственный Музей Боевой и Трудовой Славы GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-750 089; www.sargmbs.ru; Park Pobedy; R60; h9am-5.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun May-Sep)

This open-air museum filled with tanks, planes and artillery guns from the glory days of WWII is referred to locally as 'Victory Park'. Entrance to the grounds is free. There's a small exhibition filled with photos, maps and awards. In addition to the impressive firepower, the main reward for a visit here is the view out over the Volga River. The main park lane eventually leads you into an 'Ethnic Village', with houses representing numerous ethnic groups.

Radishchev Art MuseumMUSEUM

(Саратовский художественный музей имени А. Н. Радищева GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-261 606; http://radmuseumart.ru; ul Radishcheva 39; R150; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, noon-8pm Thu & Fri)

This is the main branch of the city’s Fine Arts Museum. It contains a good selection from the 18th to the 20th centuries, including some breathtaking examples from the Russian avant-garde period of the early 20th century.

WORTH A TRIP

ENGELS

Engels (Энгельс; formerly Pokrovsk) is situated across the Volga River from Saratov and became the capital of the Autonomous Socialist Soviet Republic of the Volga Germans from 1924, which survived until the republic was dissolved in 1941 and the Volga Germans were deported. It's a mostly unattractive, Soviet-style place, but worth visiting for its regional museum (Энгельсский краеведческий музей GOOGLE MAP ; %8453-567 073; http://ekmuzeum.ru; ul Maksima Gorkogo 4; R60; h10am-5pm Tue & Thu-Sun, to 9pm Wed), feeling of 'otherness' and views of the Volga as you cross the almost-3km-long bridge.

The Engels Regional Museum is part archaeology and part social-history, with exhibits showing the presence of man in the region going back to the Palaeolithic era (Old Stone Age), through the Middle Ages and eventually to the more-modern era and the Volga Germans. The museum is also strong on the art of the Volga German painter Yakov Veber (1870–1958).

Take any bus from ul Moskovskaya to the Torgoby Tsentr Lazurny in Engels. The museum is almost directly across the road.

4Sleeping

oHotel PolinaHOTEL$$

(Отель Полина GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-390 272; 7-y Shelkovichnyy pr 1a; s/d R2500/3000; paiW)

Smallish, family-run hotel located on a quiet alley, about 2km southwest of the centre. Spotlessly clean rooms, panelled in light woods, with crisp sheets on the beds and gleaming baths. Staff are friendly and the owners go out of their way to ensure a pleasant stay.

Hotel VolnaHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Волна GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-280 885; nab Kosmonavtov 7a; incl breakfast s R2200, d R2400-3800; niW)

With its superb location inside the river-station building and reasonable prices, this place is popular with Russian travellers. It has some very cheap rooms without bathrooms (R1500). Take bus 11 from the Saratov-1 train station, which runs east along ul Moskovskaya.

Pioner Lyux BohemiaHOTEL$$$

(Отель Пионер-Люх Богемия GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-454 501; www.bohemiahotel.ru; pr Kirova 15/1; incl breakfast s R2500-3400, d R4400-5400, apt R6100; niW)

This hotel offers excellent value, given the central location and quality of the rooms and service. Rooms are decorated in postmodern tones and spread over several floors. From pr Kirova, enter a small alley to the right of the old Pioner Cinema complex. Buzz to enter; the reception is on the 6th floor.

5Eating

Pivnoy ZavodRUSSIAN$

(Пивной завод GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-264 480; http://sar-brewery.com; pr Kirova 5; mains R300; h10am-11pm; W)

Beer brewed on the premises, sausages and other hearty fare are on the food and drinks menu here. Servings are not large, though – the Caucasian lamb sausage is quite decent. It also has fresh mors.

House of Culinary ZhulienRUSSIAN$

(Дом кулинарии Жюльен GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-265 871; http://gulien.ru; pr Kirova 42; meals R300; h9am-9pm)

This cafeteria, decorated in loud colours, sells inexpensive and decent ready-made dishes mostly by weight. Pick up a tray and point to the various soups, salads and main dishes on offer.

oOdessaRUSSIAN$$

(Pесторан Одесса GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-233 226; http://odessa64.ru; nab Kosmonavtov 3; mains R600; hnoon-11pm; W)

This traditional restaurant serves a mix of mains and grills, drawing on Russian and Ukrainian influences. Excellent salads and soups (including a filling borsch) as well as well-done grilled pork, chicken and fish dishes. The atmosphere is folksy, with old photos on the walls and floral print tablecloths. Reserve for evenings.

Chaikhana UzbechkaUZBEK$$

(Чайхана Узбечка GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-539 039; http://uzbechka64.ru; ul Chapayeva 93; mains R500-600; h11am-midnight)

A charming spot to sample the Central Asian cuisines of the former Soviet Union, including Uzbek, Tajik and Kazakh national dishes. There are big plates of grilled meats, plenty of fresh-baked bread, and salad plates topped with treats such as grilled eggplant and pomegranate. Homemade lemonade and friendly servers round out the charms. Reserve in advance for evening.

BuratinoRUSSIAN$$

(Буратино GOOGLE MAP ; %8542-277 479; pr Kirova 10; mains R350; h11am-midnight; c)

This is a rustic, Saratovian cafe-restaurant themed on ‘Red Count’ Alexey Tolstoy’s version of Pinocchio. The menu is filled with Russian standards, such as meat-stuffed dumplings, pancakes and grilled meats, but served in a playful setting.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Pinup PubCRAFT BEER

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-255 898; ul Sovetskaya 73; h2pm-3am)

Rocker bar with 15 craft beers on tap and a short list of decent snacks and light meals, such as salads and burgers (R350).

KlausbergBREWERY

(Пивной Дом 'Klausberg' GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-930 093; http://klausberghaus.ru; ul Rakhova 26/40; h10am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

They also serve food here at this German-themed tavern located inside a brewery, but Saratov residents know to avoid the mediocre mains and stick to the drinks: a decent range of light, dark and wheat beers. The system is a bit confusing (you pay a drinking deposit up front), but the beer is some of the best around.

Café CoupeCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-236 759; Volzhskaya ul 34; coffee R125; h10am-11pm)

This elegant cafe in a former burgher house evokes fin-de-siècle Paris and serves a few inexpensive light dishes (R200) such as soup.

3Entertainment

Sobinov ConservatoryCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Саратовская государственная консерватория имени Л. В. Собинова GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-230 503; www.sarcons.ru; pr Kirova 1)

One of the best conservatories in Russia, holding frequent performances by resident and visiting musicians in an architectural highlight of Saratov.

Schnittke Philharmonic TheatreTHEATRE

(Саратовская Областная Филармония им. А. Шнитке GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 8452-224 872; www.sarphil.com; Sobornaya pl 9; hbox office 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat & Sun)

This hall remains true to the ideology of polystylism, fostered by home-grown composer Alfred Schnittke, so jazz and folk music are as much at home here as classical music.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Inside the river station at the eastern end of ul Moskovskaya, Volga-Heritage ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8452-280 874; www.rech-vokzal.ru; nab Kosmonavtov 7a) sells cruises in the navigation season to destinations along the Volga, such as Astrakhan (return from R15,000, five days) and Samara (return from R8000, three days). Staff can tell you which boats have the best facilities and food. Saratov–Moscow one way costs from R27,000 (eight days) and St Petersburg from R40,000 (10 days).

To find the Volga Heritage office, walk through the small lobby of the Hotel Volna and down a narrow corridor.

Bus

The main bus station is located just behind the train station (ul Emlyutina 44g). Buses tend to be slower but cheaper than trains to destinations including Samara (R900, 11 hours) and Volgograd (R800, eight hours). The bus to Ulyanovsk costs about R1000 and takes 10 hours.

Train

The train station (Privokzalnaya pl) is at the western end of ul Moskovskaya. Train 9 (kupe R5812, 14 hours, daily) is the best (but most expensive) of the frequent trains to Moscow. Others go to Samara (kupe R1400, nine hours) and Volgograd (platskart R1061, seven hours).

8Getting Around

Bus 11 runs along ul Moskovskaya from the train station to the river station. Marshrutka 79 connects the train station with the market in the town centre (Krytiy Rynok). A taxi (%8452-777 777) from the train station to the centre will cost R200 to R300.

Volgograd Волгоград

%8442 / Population 1.02 million / Time Moscow

WWII history buffs will certainly want to visit Volgograd, site of one of the best-known and important battles of the war. It was here in February 1943, when the city was known as Stalingrad, that the relentless German advance was first halted and eventually turned back for good. The Soviets transformed the city, literally and figuratively, into a symbol of their successful effort, and in the process graced Volgograd with broad boulevards and public buildings that show off an unmistakable Stalinesque grandeur, and an enormous victory monument you won’t soon forget.

Volgograd was founded in 1589 as Tsaritsyn and for centuries stood as an important trading and military post near the southern border. Aside from the WWII sights, including an impressive war cemetery at Rossoshka, 30km northwest of the centre, there’s a pretty waterfront and the first locks of the impressive Volga-Don Canal.

In 2013 Volgograd was the target of several suicide bombings, including one that caused massive damage to the main train station and killed 17 people. Despite the bombings, Volgograd remains a safe city for travellers.

THE BATTLE OF STALINGRAD

The epic WWII Battle of Stalingrad is one that nearly everyone will know something about, even if they didn't happen to major in history. It was here in late 1942 and early 1943 that the Soviet Red Army defeated Nazi Germany, along with its allies Italy, Hungary, Croatia and Romania, after a tenacious six-month battle. The victory was a key turning point in the war.

Since launching their surprise attack on the Soviet Union in 'Operation Barbarossa' in June 1941, the German army had swept over much of European Russia with relative ease, swallowing up huge amounts of territory along the way. Toward the end of 1942, Nazi Germany was closing in on the Volga River and the Red Army had switched into survival mode, with a last-ditch defence planned for Stalingrad.

The battle raged on for months, as the fortunes of both the Germans and the Soviets ebbed and flowed throughout that cold winter. Much of the fighting was carried on at close quarters within the city limits. At one point, finally, the German position was successfully isolated, and the Nazi commanders had no choice but to surrender. The result was in the order of 1.5 million people killed or wounded and a city in tatters, but Soviet Russia had prevailed.

The Stalingrad victory greatly shored up Russian morale and pierced the myth of German invincibility. By the end of 1943, the Red Army had driven the Germans out of most of the Soviet Union.

1Sights

oMamaev KurganMONUMENT

(Мамаев курган GOOGLE MAP ; hdawn-dusk)F

Known as Hill 102 during the Battle of Stalingrad, Mamaev Kurgan was the site of four months of fierce fighting and is now a memorial to Soviet fighters who died in this bloody-but-victorious fight. The complex’s centrepiece is an extraordinarily evocative 72m-high statue of Mother Russia wielding a sword that extends another 11m above her head. To get here take the high-speed tram to the Mamaev Kurgan stop, 3.5km north of the centre, and walk up the hill.

In addition to the towering victory monument, the kurgan (mound) is an entire complex of statues, reflecting pools, a war cemetery, a church and a pantheon with an eternal flame and a stirring 'changing of the guard' ceremony on the hour. The pantheon is inscribed with the names of 7200 soldiers – over one million Russian soldiers died here in battle in WWII.

Panorama Museum of the Battle of StalingradMUSEUM

(Музей-панорама Сталинградская битва GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-236 723; http://stalingrad-battle.ru; ul Imena Marshala Chuykova 47, cnr ul 13-ya Gvardeyskoy Divizii; R250; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

This enormous museum has eight large display rooms filled with exhibits on WWII and the Battle of Stalingrad. There's little English signage but each room has a short synopsis in English on the room's particular theme. Audio headphones are available for a fee. A highlight is the vivid 360-degree Battle of Stalingrad Panorama. The museum is close to the Volga River, several blocks north of alleya Geroyev. The entrance is located at street level on the side of the building facing the Volga.

The area around the museum has some pretty views out over the river and plenty of old tanks and planes for kids to climb around on. Next to the museum stands the remains of an old mill, dating from 1903, that was destroyed in the battle. It's left standing as a reminder of the horrific fighting.

Rossoshka Memorial CemeteryCEMETERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; Rossoshka; cemetery free, museum R30; hsunrise-sunset)

This reconciliation cemetery, near the village of Rossoshka, 35km northwest of Volgograd, marks the final resting place of some 20,000 fallen Soviet fighters, 60,000 Germans and 2000 Romanians who died in the Battle of Stalingrad in 1942 and '43. The Soviet and Russian soldiers are buried on one side of the road, while the Germans and Romanians are on the other. There's a small museum that holds remnants of the battles that have been excavated.

Museum Reserve Old SareptaMUSEUM

(Музей-заповедник Старая Сарепта GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-673 302; http://altsarepta.ru; ul Vinogradnaya 6; R200, tours per person from R400, minimum 3 people; h9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)

An hour by marshrutka from the centre, what is now known as the Krasnoarmeysk district was once the German colony of Sarepta. Today the entire quarter is a museum reserve set around a beautiful square and Lutheran church, dating from the late 18th century. To get here, take marshrutka 15a, 91a, 93a, 93c, 93 or 55a from pr Lenina and ask the driver to stop at Vinogradnaya.

The original settlers of old Sarepta were German Catholic missionaries from Moravia (in the Czech Republic) who arrived here in 1765 with the aim of proselytising the Kalmyks. Failing that, they became the mustard tycoons of Russia. The museums – one a historic pharmacy, the other telling the history and lifestyle of the colony – are interesting but a tour in Russian, English or German is useful, also taking you into the otherwise closed church. Buy tickets for the two museums from the white building alongside the church.

Volga-Don CanalCANAL

(Волго-Донской судоходный канал имени В. И. Ленина (Волго-Донской канал) GOOGLE MAP ; ul Fadeeva 35a)

Built in 1952, the Volga-Don Canal is the grandiose gateway of an aquatic avenue that now connects the White and the Black Seas via the Volga and Don Rivers. The huge Stalinesque neoclassical arch marks the first lock in the Volga-Don Canal. Take marshrutka 15a, 91a, 93a, 93c, 93 or 55a from ul Lenina south from the centre for about 10km to the first stop after crossing the canal.

One million people, including 236,000 Axis prisoners of war and Russian Gulag inmates, took part in the construction of the canal, and even a planet is named after it.

Also here is a small museum (Музей Волго-Донского канала GOOGLE MAP ; ul Fadeyeva 35a; R60; h10am-noon & 1-4.30pm Tue, Wed & Fri), which tells the story of the canal and gives insight into water transport in Europe.

2Activities

A popular evening stroll begins at the bottom of ul Komsomolskaya and runs north through a park along a ridge above the Volga River to the Panorama Museum of the Battle of Stalingrad.

A couple of local companies offer guided tours of the significant WWII sights and may be worth considering for a deeper exploration of history.

Several companies offer one-hour pleasure cruises along the river for around R300 per person. Buy tickets and find the boats at the Volga river station.

KruizBOATING

(Круиз GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-630 202; www.kruiztur.ru; 1st fl, Rechnoy vokzal; #)

This tour agency offers many different segments of the Volga, including to/from Astrakhan (return R11,000 to R18,000, four days) and Kazan (R25,000 to R40,000, seven days). It also offers 90-minute pleasure cruises on the Volga (R300 per person) that depart regularly from the river station from May to September.

4Sleeping

oStary StalingradBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(Отель Старый Сталинград GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-385 501; http://hotelstalingrad.pro34.ru; ul Ostrovskogo 4; incl breakfast s/d/ste R2800/3600/4700; W)

Behind the Univermag shops and part of the same building, this modern minihotel has nicely furnished rooms with individual touches. It’s especially worth trying if the larger hotels are full.

Park InnHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-268 125; www.parkinn.com/hotel-volgograd; ul Balonina 7; s/d R3000/4000; aiW)

This mid-market chain is highly recommended both for its excellent location, just behind the train station and five minutes' walk from the bus station, as well as the clean, well-appointed rooms and excellent buffet breakfast. The friendly staff know some English, and the German-themed restaurant offers a welcome diversion from Russian dumplings and borsch.

Hotel VolgogradHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Волгоград GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-551 955; www.hotelvolgograd.ru; ul Mira 12; incl breakfast s R2800, d R3600-6500, ste R5000-16,000; naW)

South across pl Pavshikh Bortsov, this hotel has professional staff and clean and comfortable rooms in one of the few buildings remaining from Tsaritsyn times – although it was considerably altered after the war.

Hotel IntouristHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-302 303; http://en.volgaintour.ru; ul Mira 14; incl breakfast s R3400-4200, d R5000, ste R7400-11,000; naW)

This is a vintage Soviet-era gem with the high level of service matching the bright, welcoming lobby. Rooms are well lit and tasteful.

5Eating

Central MarketMARKET$

(Центральный рынок GOOGLE MAP ; Sovetskaya ul 17; h7am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun & Mon)

This sprawling market, located near the corner of Sovetskaya ul and Komsomolskaya ul, stocks everything from Astrakhan watermelons to Volga fish.

oHungryRUSSIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-503 973; https://vk.com/hungrycafe; alleya Geroyev 5; mains R400; h10am-midnight; W)

This centrally located upscale cafe is an ideal choice for lunch or dinner. Wood-fired pizzas, gourmet salads and a long list of soups as well as meat and fish dishes. Enjoy homemade cakes and ice cream for dessert, and the coffee is good as well.

Na AlleeGEORGIAN$$

(На Аллее GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-501 375; www.naallee.gidm.ru; alleya Geroyev 3; mains R350; h9am-11pm)

This very good Georgian restaurant has a family atmosphere and serves homemade wine from Georgia. It does a tasty lamb ketsi with vegetables (baked in an earthenware dish).

Grand CaféRUSSIAN$$

(Гранд Кафе GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-528 140; www.grandcafe34.ru; ul Mira 12; mains R450, pizza & pasta R260; h8am-6am)

Situated on the ground floor of Hotel Volgograd, this is the city’s most popular spot to sip a cappuccino and scope out the scene. Part of the premises is a pizzeria open from noon to 1am daily.

RiminiITALIAN$$

(Римини GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-240 908; www.trattoria-rimini.ru; ul Gagarina 9; pizza R250-350, meat mains R400; h11am-midnight; W)

This large, bustling Italian place has neorustic decor and a large menu offering straight-up-and-down Italian pizza, pasta and meat dishes complemented by salads. Ul Gagarina is about five blocks north of Komsomolskaya ul along pr Lenina.

BochkaGERMAN$$

(Бочка GOOGLE MAP ; %8-937-099 5830; http://bochka.gidm.ru; Sovetskaya ul 16; mains R400, day menu R250; h11am-midnight)

Basement beer cellar and restaurant that draws a business-lunch crowd, but it’s more fun in the evening, when live music is staged.

KayfeCAFE$$

(Кайфе GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-244 242; pr Lenina 23a; mains R400; h9am-6am; W)

A cosy cafe that offers everything you might want, be it a large meal or a light snack, tea, coffee or one of the many alcoholic beverages on the menu. It’s good for breakfast, lunch and especially a predawn chill-out.

Bar & GrillSTEAK$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-551 050; www.bargrill34.ru; ul Mira 5; steaks from R800; hnoon-midnight; W)

Cosy, welcoming steakhouse, situated at the front of a theatre building on central pl Pavshikh Bortsov. Choose from a mouthwatering list of grilled steaks and seafood. In addition to expensive cuts of beef, there are cheaper offerings of grilled chicken and pork. The setting is romantic dark woods, though in summer there's a small outdoor terrace.

CappuccinoCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-235 823; www.capucino.ru; pr Lenina 22; h8.30am-10pm)

Popular cafe, where the tea is actually better than the namesake cappuccino and the cakes are very good and taste homemade. The homemade ice cream is very good as well.

7Shopping

Memorable SouvenirGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ostrovskogo 4; h9am-7pm)

A terrific souvenir shop with shelves of over-the-top Soviet and WWII-themed shirts, hats, medals, models, flasks and loads of other perfect take-home mementos.

8Information

Sberbank ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-742 117; ul Gogolya 5; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Alongside the post office.

Post Office (Главпочтамт GOOGLE MAP ; pl Pavshikh Bortsov; internet per MB R6; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Post office with internet access.

Tourist Information Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-529 893; www.welcomevolgograd.com; ul Gagarina 12; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Small but helpful tourist information office can offer city maps and advise on things to do and see. Not much English spoken.

Volgograd Sputnik Travel Company ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-502 105; www.stalingradtours.com; pr Lenina 15) All-purpose travel agency offers guided tours of the city as well as historic tours of battlefield sights and guided visits to further-afield attractions such as the Rossoshka Reconciliation Cemetery. Guided tours of the city start at about R10,000 per tour (best divided among several people). Check out the website and arrange tours in advance by email.

8Getting There & Away

Tickets can be bought at TAVS Volga (ТАВС Волга GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-380 010; alleya Geroyev 5; h8am-7pm) – especially useful for picking up bus tickets to Elista.

Air

Volgograd International Airport (Международный Аэропорт Волгоград/VOG GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-261 000; ul Aviatorov 161) has daily air connections with Moscow as well as to popular holiday destinations in Turkey, such as Istanbul and Antalya.

Bus

For frequent buses to Elista (R625, six hours), Astrakhan (R950, 10 hours) and Rostov-on-Don (R900, nine hours), head to the Central Bus Station (Центральный автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %8442-377 228; ul Mikhaila Balonina 11), a 750m walk across the tracks or through the underpass from the train station. Frequent buses leave from the train-station square to Moscow (R1500, 14 hours). Booths and offices there sell tickets.

Train

Volgograd's impressive Stalinist-styled train station is located in the centre of the city, within easy walking distance of hotels, restaurants and sights. Buy tickets at counters inside the station.

Train connections from Volgograd include Astrakhan (around R1000, eight to 11 hours, two daily), Moscow (train 1, R1900, 19 hours, almost daily), Rostov-on-Don (R1200, 12½ hours, at least daily), Saratov (R1100, 7½ hours, frequent) and St Petersburg (R3000, 36 hours, at least daily) – train 79 is the best for St Petersburg.

There are cheaper but slower train connections to Moscow and St Petersburg.

8Getting Around

The city centre is accessible on foot. Kiosks sell city maps of the centre for R100. To get to Mamaev Kurgan or the Panorama Museum of the Battle of Stalingrad, take the skorostnoy tramvay (high-speed tram), which is a single metro line that runs along or under pr Lenina. To get to Krasnoarmeysk take marshrutka 15a, 91a, 93a, 93c, 93 or 55a from pr Lenina on the city side of the road (ie not the Volga side).

To get to the airport, catch express minibus 6E (R25, every 15 minutes) from the stop on pr Lenina on the Volga side of the road, or at the train station.

Astrakhan Астрахань

%8512 / Population 520,500 / Time Moscow

Astrakhan sits astride the Volga north of the Caspian Sea and is Russia’s face on that multinational body of water. The city reflects much of the region’s cultural and religious diversity. There are large communities of Kazakhs and Azeris, as well as Islamic Tatars. While many visitors use Astrakhan mainly as a jumping-off point for the Volga Delta, the city merits a day or two of exploration in its own right.

There’s a long, handsome riverfront that’s ideal for evening strolls as the sun sets across the river. The striking white kremlin, a symbol of Russian dominance since the 16th century, holds two beautiful churches and several museums. Across the canal, north of the kremlin, the stone mansions and churches of the European and Christian centre give way to Tatar and Persian sloboda (suburbs) with their wooden cottages, mosques and quaint courtyards, where garlands of drying vobla fish flutter in the breeze.

With its position along the Volga River and just north of the Caspian Sea, Astrakhan has always been valued for its strategic military and economic position. The modern Russian city dates from 1558, after Ivan the Terrible defeated the local Tatar khanate. Historically, though, Astrakhan is the successor of two imperial capitals in the area that date back much further. These include Saray of the Golden Horde, from the 13th and 14th centuries, and Itil (sometimes called Atil), of the earlier Khazar kaganate, which adopted Judaism as its official religion and goes back to the 8th to 10th centuries. Both cities prospered thanks to their location on the Silk Route and by the sea.

Astrakhan

1Top Sights

1Assumption CathedralD2

2KremlinD2

1Sights

3GuardhouseC2

4Kryusha QuarterE4

5Local Studies MuseumE2

6PM Dogadin State Art GalleryG2

7Red GatesC2

8Torture TowerD2

9Velimir Khlebnikov MuseumF2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

10AstrinturE3

CezarE3

11ProcostaD1

4Sleeping

12Al Pash Novomoskovskaya HotelD2

13Astrakhanskaya HotelD1

14AZIMUT Hotel AstrakhanB2

15Hotel 7 NeboF1

16Lotus HotelB3

5Eating

17Beer AcademyD3

18Beer HouseE3

19Cafe IzbaD1

20MindalD1

21RozmarinD2

22Tatar-BazarB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

23Krem CaféD1

24La VanileD1

1Sights

Kremlin

The kremlin (Астраханский кремль MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://astrakhan-musei.ru; h7am-7pm) on top of Zayachy Hill is a peaceful green haven. Its walls and gate towers were built in the 16th century using bricks from the ruins of the Golden Horde’s capital Saray, which stood north of Astrakhan. Today, the kremlin encompasses several museums and two churches. The main entrance is through the impressive Prechistinsky Gate, which passes under the bell tower of the Assumption Cathedral at the western end of ul Sovetskaya.

oAssumption CathedralCHURCH

(Успенский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://astrakhan-musei.ru; kremlin; h7am-7pm)

Dating from 1698–1720, the Assumption Cathedral dominates the kremlin grounds and is decorated inside with attractive frescoes.

GuardhouseMUSEUM

(Гауптвахта MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://astrakhan-musei.ru; kremlin; R50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Oct)

Located inside the guardhouse from 1807, this museum gives quite a good insight into the everyday life of soldiers in 19th-century Astrakhan.

Torture TowerMUSEUM

(Пыточная башня MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://astrakhan-musei.ru; kremlin; R60; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Oct)

Tells the story of physical torture from the 16th to the 18th centuries.

Red GatesHISTORIC BUILDING

(Красные ворота MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://astrakhan-musei.ru; kremlin; R50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Oct)

Covers the history of Astrakhan as a southern outpost of the Russian Empire from the 16th to the 19th centuries.

Other Sights

PM Dogadin State Art GalleryGALLERY

(Художественная галерея Догадина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-511 121; http://agkg.ru; ul Sverdlova 81; R80, guided tours R500; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, 1-9pm Thu)

The Dogadin State Art Gallery is especially strong on works of Astrakhan-born Boris Kustodiev, who painted lushly coloured semifolkloric scenes of merchant life, but all of the important periods of Russian art, including several masters of the Russian avant-garde, are represented. Guided tours are in English. Call ahead.

Kryusha QuarterAREA

(Крюша MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The Kryusha area of former Tatar and Persian suburbs south of the May 1st Canal is still predominantly Muslim, which is reflected in the proliferation of mosques. It's quaint in a rundown sort of way, best avoided in the evening, and a quarter where stray dogs roam along dirt roads. A nice walk to get a feel for the quarter follows Kazanskaya ul for about 2km, starting at ul Kirova and walking west to near the Tatar-Bazar.

Velimir Khlebnikov MuseumMUSEUM

(Дом-музей Велимира Хлебникова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-516 496; http://agkg.ru; ul Sverdlova 53; Russian/foreigner R50/R140, bilingual tours R500; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Come here for a small collection of portraits, drawings and personal objects from this futurist poet, who lived from 1885 to 1922.

Local Studies MuseumMUSEUM

(Краеведческий музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-511 822; http://astrakhan-musei.ru; ul Sovetskaya 15; R120; h10am-5pm Fri-Wed, to 9pm Thu)

The Local Studies Museum functions as both a natural history and ethnographic museum, with permanent exhibitions dedicated to local wildlife and fish as well as the history and culture of the people in the Astrakhan region. There are occasionally interesting temporary exhibitions, though English signage is limited.

WORTH A TRIP

THE VOLGA DELTA

The Volga Delta is the natural highlight of any trip to the region, and if you are travelling from north to south, you are likely to feel a sense of enormous achievement in reaching the point where this magnificent river flows into the Caspian Sea in Central Asia.

About 70km south of Astrakhan, the river bursts like a firecracker into thousands of streams, creating a unique ecosystem teeming with wildlife. The three symbols of the delta are the Caspian lotus flower (abundant), the sturgeon (critically threatened) and the Caspian flamingo – a semilegendary bird that the average ranger will have seen once in their life, if at all.

The best time to visit is between late July and late September when lotus flowers blossom. April and October are major fishing seasons.

The most biologically diverse area is covered by the Astrakhan Biosphere Reserve. The rest of the delta is dotted with floating and land-based lodges that mostly specialise in fishing and hunting. These days operators are used to the occasional foreigner drifting down here for the simple pleasure of experiencing this beautiful wetland area and travelling by boat into the raskaty (the channels) to watch the birdlife.

Although the entryway into the delta region can be reached by car, the experience will be richer and easier to organise if you work with an Astrakhan-based travel agency. Not only do they offer guided tours of the most popular spots in the delta, they can help with transport, accommodation and the extensive paperwork (visas and permissions) needed to visit the region. Regardless of whether you go down to the delta on a day trip or overnight, copies of your passport main page, visa and migration card need to be presented to the tour agency or place of stay at least a week – preferably longer – in advance.

Cezar and Procosta are both highly experienced and recommended. Cezar can organise virtually any turbaza (holiday camp) or hotel on the delta. Zolotoy Lotos is a good lodging choice and is situated on the water.

Procosta takes you to its own base, which is a couple of kilometres by boat from the Caspian Sea and the nearest road, with cottages set entirely on stilts. The cottages, linked by a boardwalk, sleep two to four people. Rybnoye Mesto ( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-927-070 7007; http://vipvolga.ru; ul Rybatskaya 25, Stanya; per person with full board from R3000) in Stanya (Станья), situated about 80km south of Astrakhan and a couple of kilometres from the last settlement of any size, Kamyzyak (Камызяк), is the springboard to the Procosta turbaza and other tourist bases in this part of the delta.

TTours

CezarTOURS

(Цезарь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-392 992; www.zesar.ru; office 306, ul Lenina 20; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat)

Cezar has highly professional staff with long experience in dealing with foreigners. It can organise day trips and lodge stays anywhere in the Volga Delta, as well as an excursion to Baskunchak Salt Lake and Bogdo Mountain (R1900, border permit required), sacred to Buddhists. The office is on the 3rd floor of a bank building. Ask inside for directions.

Cezar also offers a two-hour walking tour of the city (R1000 per person, with guide). In general, try to book tours well in advance, as some trips require extensive paperwork. Note that prices for trips that include an English-speaking guide tend to be much higher than similar tours for Russians. To save money, simply request the tour without a guide.

ProcostaTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-999 812; www.procosta.ru; ul Admiralteyskaya 43; h9am-6pm)

Organises tours into the Volga Delta to its own tourist base (twin cottage R2500 to R4000). A day excursion with boat and ranger from Astrakhan costs from R3500 per person, while a transfer each way costs R4000, which can be shared.

AstrinturTOURS

(Астринтур MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-392 406/984; www.astrintour.ru; ul Lenina 20; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)

This agency is reliable and handles hotel bookings, individual tours and boat trips to the delta, though it tends to be weaker than competitors in furnishing English-speaking guides.

4Sleeping

oAstrakhanskaya HotelHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-488 080; www.astrakhanskaya-hotel.ru; ul Ulyanovykh 6; s/d R3000/4000; iW)

This old luxury pile, dating from the 19th century and situated two blocks from the waterfront, has been given a thoroughly decadent makeover, with expensive carpets, crystal chandeliers and high-thread-count sheets on the beds. Yet the prices are not much higher than thoroughly inferior options. If you're looking for a modest splurge, this is the place.

Zolotoy LotosHOTEL$$

(Золотой Лотос GOOGLE MAP ; %8-927-282 3007; www.astradelta.ru; near Karalat; per person per day from R3000, day excursion to Caspian Sea R5600)

A good floating hotel that offers various excursions. It has one building on land and another on the water.

AZIMUT Hotel AstrakhanHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Азимут MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-326 839; www.azimuthotels.ru; ul Kremlevskaya 4; incl breakfast s R2500-3500, d R3600-4000, ste R4400-7100; niW)

This acceptable business and tourist hotel not only has the best river views in town, it offers some of the best value, with comfortable, refurbished rooms, good breakfasts and efficient staff. Be sure to request a room on one of the renovated upper floors (6th, 7th or 8th). Take marshrutka 1 from the train station to pl Lenina and walk towards the river for a few minutes.

Lotus HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(Лотус Отель MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-262 200; www.astlotushotel.ru; ul Maksima Gorkogo 44; incl breakfast s R2300-3300, d R2700-4000; Ws)

This is a top-quality minihotel with a small pool for sauna-goers. Rooms are modern and spacious. The location is terrific, about 5 minutes' walk from both the Volga riverfront and the kremlin.

Hotel 7 NeboHOTEL$$

(Отель 7 Небо MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-160 864; www.7nebo-hotel.ru; Krasnaya nab 27; incl breakfast s R2800-3600, d R3200-4000, ste R6000; W)

This hotel, upstairs in a modern office building, offers good value with clean, parquet-floored rooms in tasteful colours. From the train station, take marshrutka 13 and ask for Krasnaya naberezhnye.

Al Pash Novomoskovskaya HotelHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-271 527; www.nvmsk.com; ul Sovetskaya 4 cnr ul Kirova 18; incl breakfast s R3500-6000, d R4000-8000; nW)

This is arguably the city's most impressive hotel, occupying a late-19th-century palace situated on one of the stateliest pieces of real estate, 100m east of the kremlin. The spacious rooms cosily decorated in soft browns have marble-tiled bathrooms with bathtubs. Some rooms have views across the tranquil Bratsky Gardens.

5Eating

Tatar-BazarMARKET

(Татар-базар MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Svobody 12 & 15; h7am-5pm)

For famous Astrakhan watermelons and other fresh fruit and vegetables as well as meats, bread and cheese, try this market in the Kryusha neighbourhood. Marshrutky 1, 52 and many others run out here from Oktyabraskaya pl.

RozmarinCAFE$

(Розмарин MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-299 212; ul Esplanadnaya 4a; sandwiches R200; h10am-midnight; W)

This hipster-inspired coffee and sandwich spot is an ideal quick lunch option, and just a short walk from the main entrance to the kremlin. Choose from a long list of creative salad and sandwich combinations and enjoy an AeroPress coffee and cherry cobbler afterward.

oMindalCENTRAL ASIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-201 212; ul Ulyanovykh 10; mains R500-600; h11am-midnight)

This is the ideal spot to sample the diverse cuisines of the Caspian Sea region. Choose from traditional Azeri, Persian, Kazakh and Russian dishes, starting off with a 'Tsar's fish soup', then dabbling with baked lamb or sturgeon steak, served on a bed of pomegranate seeds, and finishing up with baklava. The cosy setting has a Central Asian vibe.

Cafe IzbaRUSSIAN$$

(Кафе Изба MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-518 191; Krasnaya nab 8; mains R400; hnoon-midnight; W)

Decorated in the style of a Russian cottage, Izba is one of Astrakhan's best traditional restaurants, serving well-prepared classic cuisine popular with local office workers.

Beer AcademyPUB FOOD$$

(Академия Пива MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-444 940; www.academy-piva.ru; ul Lenina 7; mains R400; h11am-midnight; W)

Among the pubs in Astrakhan, this one generally serves the best food, with an extensive menu that spans Russian Volga classics such as fish, pub classics like sausages, and steak. It also has a great selection of draught beers.

Beer HousePUB FOOD$$

(Бир Хаус MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-444 800; www.am-house.ru/beerhouse; ul Krasnogo Znameni 12; mains R400; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun; W)

The inauspicious entrance gives way to the convivial, neorustic ‘Beer House’ pub upstairs that serves a competent range of salads and hot snacks (including light seafood dishes), as well as more substantial steaks and sausage dishes.

6Drinking & Nightlife

La VanileCAFE

(Ла Ваниле MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-520 428; http://la-vanile.ru; ul Admiralteyskaya 35/37; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; W)

Flower pots abound, water streams down a glass wall and delicious French pastries beckon from the counter to accompany your coffee or tea. It also offers a small but creative food menu (mains R350), with decent salads and soups.

Krem CaféCAFE

(Крем Кафе MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-440 400; ul Uritskogo 5; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W)

Wonderful spot on the riverfront to stop for a coffee, a beer or a bite to eat. Krem does passable salads (R250) as well as sushi and meat dishes (mains R200 to R400), but the real draw is the terrace, which comes into its own at sunset.

8Information

Sberbank ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Admiralteyskaya 21; h10am-7pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 6pm Thu, to 5pm Sat)

Post Office (Почта GOOGLE MAP ; cnr ul Kirova & ul Chernyshevskogo; internet per MB R3.15; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) Post office with internet access.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Astrakhan's small Narimanovo Airport (ASF; GOOGLE MAP ; %8512-393 317; pr Aeroportovskiy 1) is located 10km south of the centre in the Sovetsky Rayon. Marshrutka 5 runs from the airport to central pl Lenina, passing the train and bus stations and pl Oktyabrskaya. Allow at least 30 minutes for the journey from the centre by public transport. A taxi is much quicker and will cost about R400.

There at two to three flights daily to Moscow. Flights within the region require a change in Moscow.

Boat

Astrakhan is the end point – more rarely the starting point – for cruises on the Volga. There are no regular passenger boats to the other Caspian Sea ports. Cruise ships dock at the eternally uncompleted river station (Речной вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kremlevskaya 1).

Bus

The bus station has regular services to Elista (R625, six hours) and Volgograd (R950, 10 hours).

Train

Book via Volgograd (R1000, eight to 11 hours, two daily) to Moscow (R3000, at least 30 hours) to avoid passing through Kazakhstan. There are also services to Baku in Azerbaijan (R2500, 24 hours) and east to Atyrau in Kazakhstan (kupe R1100, 13 hours).

8Getting Around

Most of the important sights, as well as hotels and restaurants, are concentrated in a relatively small area in the centre of the city and are within walking distance of each other. Marshrutka 1 goes from the train station to pl Oktyabrskaya and to central pl Lenina, which stands at the southern end of the kremlin.

Elista Элиста

%84722 / Population 103,700 / Time Moscow

Prayer drums, red-robed monks, boiled guts and butter tea for lunch… Wait, it’s still Europe! Elista is the capital of Kalmykia (Республика Калмыкия), the continent’s only Buddhist region and a fragment of Mongolia thrown onto the shores of the Caspian Sea. Much of the republic consists of sparsely populated steppe occasionally punctuated by straight or squiggly lines of wooden electricity poles running to the horizon. With its colourful, Tibetan-style khuruls (temples), the otherwise-drab Elista is a good starting point for further exploration of this region.

History

Kalmyks are nomads (nowadays more at heart than in practice) and their history is that of migration – forced and voluntary. They descend from the Oirats, the western branch of Mongolians who embraced Buddhism in the early 17th century and soon after resolved to look for pastures green in the west.

In the last massive nomadic migration in the history of Eurasia, the Oirats traversed thousands of kilometres and ended up on the banks of the Volga, which at that time marked the border of the emerging Russian empire. Moscow initially welcomed the newcomers, allowing them to retain their way of life in return for guarding the border. But in the 18th century, the Oirats came under pressure from Russian and German settlers encroaching on their lands. One winter’s night in 1771 they made their second escape – back to Mongolia. But the ice on the Volga was not strong enough for those on the western bank to cross the river, so 20,000 out of 160,000 families stayed. The flight turned into a disaster, with two-thirds of the people killed by enemies on the way.

Those who remained on the Volga lived quietly and not entirely unhappily until the 1920s, when the Bolsheviks destroyed all khuruls, arrested most monks and expropriated the cattle. No surprise that during the short-lived German occupation in 1942 some Kalmyks joined Hitler’s army. At the same time, thousands of others fought on the Soviet side.

Stalin’s reprisal was terrible. On 28 December 1943 all Kalmyks, including party members and policemen, were put in unheated cattle cars and sent to Siberia. When in 1957 Nikita Khrushchev allowed them to return, less than half the prewar population of 93,000 could make it home. The others perished in Gulag camps.

In 1993 the Kalmyks elected their first president – 31-year-old multimillionaire Kirsan Ilyumzhinov – who presided over the republic until 2010 and left his mark through his two chief fascinations: chess and a predilection for the fictional trickster Ostap Bender. This conflux of chess, fiction and the reality of Kalmyk history lends the steppe republic a rather bizarre edge. The 14th Dalai Lama has visited several times despite Moscow’s reluctance to spoil relations with China. Boring it is not.

1Sights

The most enjoyable part of a trip to Elista is simply seeing the colourful Buddhist temples bursting with life amid the typical drabness of Soviet-era high-rises, starting with the bright red Pagoda of Seven Days (Пагода Семи дней GOOGLE MAP ; cnr ul Lenina & ul Pushkina) in the centre. A walk through the adjacent park, the Alley of Heroes (Аллея Героев GOOGLE MAP ), proceeds through a colourful Buddhist-inspired archway.

Golden Abode of Buddha ShakyamuniBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Gol-Syume Burkh Bagshin Altn Syume; GOOGLE MAP ; %84722-40 109; www.khurul.ru; ul Klykova; hgrounds & temple 8am-8pm daily, library & museum 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, daily prayer 9-10.30am, prayer for the deceased 2-4pm Fri)

The Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni, also called the New Khurul, was built in 2005 in the Tibetan style. The prayer hall sports an 11m-high statue of Buddha and the monk’s robe of the 14th Dalai Lama. Downstairs a small museum depicts the history of Kalmyk Buddhism. The location is 1km east of the centre. Take marshrutka 9 or any other going east along ul Lenina.

National Museum of the Republic of KalmykiaMUSEUM

(Национальный музей Республики Калмыкия им. Н. Н. Пальмова GOOGLE MAP ; ul Dzhangara 9; Russian/foreigner R80/100, deportation exhibition extra R120, museum tour Russian/foreigner extra R120/150; h9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun)

The modern building of the National Museum, about 2km west of the centre, has eight large rooms covering the history, environment and culture of the Kalmyk people and republic. One room deals with the deportations during WWII. The exhibition is in Russian, so it's worth paying extra for an English (or Russian) tour for greater insight. Take marshrutka 5 and ask the driver to stop at the museum.

Geden Sheddup GoichorlingBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Syakyusn-syume; %84722-40 109; hclosed to the public)

Geden Sheddup Goichorling, 6km north of the centre, is the oldest khurul in Kalmykia and consists of a lavishly decorated large temple from 1996 and a small temple behind it containing the throne of the Dalai Lama, surrounded by the steppe. It's normally closed to the public.

The figure of Buddha Shakyamuni is at the centre of the altar, and the frescoes on the walls depict his 12 deeds and tell about his life.

Exodus & Return MemorialMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.enstudio.com; ul Khrushcheva)

The striking Exodus & Return Memorial is located about 3km east of the centre on the far end of ul Khrushcheva. The work, by sculptor Ernst Neizvestny, marks the tragic, WWII-era deportation of the Kalmyk people.

Chess CityAREA

(Сити-чесс GOOGLE MAP )

Fans of chess will want to visit a small suburb that Kalmyk leader Kirsan Ilyumzhinov had hoped to make the world's chess capital. There's a nearly abandoned steel-and-glass 'Chess City Hall' here that played host to the 1998 Chess Olympics and several Olympic-style bungalows. The idea never caught on, and today the area is somewhat depressing. It's located about 4km southeast of the main central intersection of ul Lenina and ul Pushkina. Marshrutka 7 takes you there from Hotel Elista.

TTours

Kalmykia TourTOURS

(%8-927-593 4530; www.kalmykiatour.com)

Few tour companies are used to handling foreigners, but Kalmykia Tour can organise accommodation (from around R2000) and arrival transfer (R500) if you need it. Contact by email.

Pegas TouristikTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-960-899 1705; www.pegast.ru; ul Neyman 1; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat)

Pegas can stitch together a sightseeing package with an English- or German-speaking guide and arrange accommodation. Expect to pay around R4000 for two people, excluding hotel costs and transport to/from Elista.

zFestivals & Events

Dzhangariada FestivalFOLK ARTS

(hlate-Aug or Sep)

The Kalmyk equivalent of the Mongolian Naadam, Dzhangariada is an annual celebration of the Kalmyk epic Dzhangar – a 12-song story about life in the blessed land called Bumba. Held on open steppe outside Elista (the location changes every year), it includes wrestling and archery contests and performances by dzhangarchi (traditional singers). Book accommodation early for the festival.

4Sleeping

Bely LotosHOTEL$$

(Белый Лотос GOOGLE MAP ; %84722-34 416; ul Khoninova 7; incl breakfast s/d R2000/3000, ste R5200-7500; aW)

The serene 'White Lotus' is professionally run, friendly and arguably the best of a small number of hotels in the city. It's tucked away on a quiet street, one block south of the Alley of Heroes park area. From the outside, the metal-and-glass building resembles an office or institute, but the rooms are clean and warmly furnished.

Hotel OstrovokHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-917-688 4248; ul Respublikanskaya 14; s/d R2000/3000; W)

This small, family-run hotel does not look very promising at first glance, but fortunes improve once you go inside and walk upstairs to find four stylish, ultra-clean rooms. One has a small balcony and all have gleaming bathrooms and comfy beds. The location is central, about 10 minutes' walk from the main intersection of ul Lenina and ul Pushkina.

Hotel ElistaHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %Korpus 1 84722-25 540; www.hotelelista.ru; Korpus 1: ul Lenina 241, Korpus 2: ul Lenina 237; incl breakfast s R2000-3300, d R4500-5200; naW)

This Soviet relic occupies two large buildings (Korpus 1 and Korpus 2), on the city's main street ul Lenina, which almost behave as separate hotels. Korpus 1 has the better facilities, with a 24-hour supermarket and a coffee bar. Avoid dumpy Korpus 2. Take any marshrutka going to the Gostinitsa (Гостиница) stop.

5Eating & Drinking

Elista is the place to try Kalmyk specialities, though keep in mind that Kalmyk food tends to be far richer than what many visitors are used to. Staples include meat-filled berg (or berigi) dumplings and hasn makhn (sliced mutton with flat pasta). The traditional tea, dzhomba, is flavoured with ample amounts of butter and often taken with portions of bortsg (balls of dough fried in oil).

Cafeteria 'Ice'RUSSIAN$

(Столовая 'Айс' GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pushkina 22; mains R200; h9am-7pm)

Traditional no-frills, self-serve cafeteria offering very good and reasonably priced Russian and Kalmyk dishes. The location is in the centre, just off the main intersection of ul Lenina and ul Pushkina. Get in line, pick up a tray and point to the soups, salads and mains that you would like.

Cafe ChipollinoRUSSIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %84722-44 886; ul Lenina 255а mains R150; h11am-11pm)

Great spot for coffee or lunch, right on the main intersection of ul Lenina and ul Pushkina. Order at the counter and choose from two daily soups and around half a dozen dishes. Drink your coffee in or take away.

GurmanKALMYK, INTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-905-400 4460; http://gurman.uralan.org; ul Nomto Ochirova 9; Kalmyk dishes R200-250, mains/steaks R400/600; h11am-2am)

Located inside the 'Ural' cinema and bowling complex, a couple of blocks south of central ul Lenina, Gurman is arguably the best midrange place in town and offers Kalmyk dishes along with Russian and international cuisine ranging from steaks to sushi.

PragaPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %84722-28 404; www.alyans-praga.blizko.ru; ul Nomto Ochirova 5; hnoon-2am; W)

This handy cellar pub, just a short stroll from the main intersection of ul Lenina and ul Pushkina, serves a nice range of Czech and other European beers and has a decent food menu that includes some traditional Kalmyk dishes.

Cafe-Bar AlyansBAR

(Кафе-Бар Альянс GOOGLE MAP ; %84722 3-36-08; www.alyans-praga.blizko.ru; ul Nomto Ochirova 5a; hnoon-2am)

Set among a constellation of eating and drinking places along ul Nomto Ochirova – many of them popular with a very young crowd – Alyans caters to a more mixed crowd. The food (mains R250 to R450) is decent, but its chilled-out mood, small dance floor and frequent DJ nights are its main attractions.

8Information

Sberbank ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Suseyeva 13; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) A central branch with ATMs and currency exchange. Other ATMs are scattered around town and inside Hotel Elista.

Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Suseyeva 31; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)

8Getting There & Away

Air

A handful of flights to Moscow are all that keep tiny Elista International Airport (Аэропорт Элиста/ESL GOOGLE MAP ; %84722-29 947; www.aeroport-elista.ru) busy. Airline tickets are available at Elya ( GOOGLE MAP ; %84722-41 297; ul Lenina 247/2; oneway to Moscow R5000-8000).

Bus

The bus station is about 4km north of the centre on the outskirts of town. A taxi to the centre will cost R200. Marshrutky 2, 6, 9 and 17 travel to or near the station and can take you to the front of Hotel Elista in the centre.

Elista is approximately the same distance from Volgograd, Astrakhan, Mineralnye Vody (Caucasus) and Stavropol (Caucasus). A trip to any of these takes about six hours and costs around R600. Currently there are no train services to Kalmykia.

8Getting Around

Marshrutky are the only mode of public transport. Their main hub is in front of Hotel Elista (appearing as Гостиница on signs), from where you can get to any part of town. Buy tickets from the driver.