The Urals

Why Go?

Marking the border between Europe and Asia, the Ural Mountains (Урал) stretch from the Kara Sea in the north to Kazakhstan in the south. Modest in scale, they nevertheless proved to be rich in resources, and when Russia stumbled onto this Aladdin’s cave full of lustrous treasures many centuries ago, the mineral riches filled the coffers and allowed Russia to expand into Siberia beyond.

Today Yekaterinburg, the largest of the region's towns, is a bustling centre and offers a base for exploring less-visited towns. Perm is a vibrant city that's home to some strong cultural attractions. Kungur has a spectacular ice cave, while the countryside offers hiking, cycling, rafting and horse riding. The conifer forest of the Sinegorye (Blue Mountains) makes the gently sloped ranges of the southern Ural Mountains look like frozen blue waves. Lake Turgoyak and two national parks are accessed from stations along the Ufa–Chelyabinsk railway.

When to Go

ADec–Feb Best for winter sports and culture.

ALate Apr–May Fewer travellers in spring means little advance booking is needed.

AJun & Jul Street life, summer festivals and hiking can be enjoyed.

Best Places to Eat

A Grill Taverna Montenegro

A Expedicia Restaurant

A Rosy Jane

A Nigora

A Azyk-Tulek

A Pashtet

Best Places to Stay

A Hotel Tsentralny

A Red Star Hostel

A Ecopark Zyuratkul

A Eva Hotel

The Urals Highlights

1 Kungur Ice Cave Experiencing ice and a moment of pitch darkness.

2 Zyuratkul National Park Hiking into the mountain range or strolling the shoreline of Lake Zyuratkul.

3 Perm-36 Visiting the former labour camp and haunting Gulag memorial.

4 PERMM Making sense of the modern at this museum of contemporary art in Perm.

5 Church upon the Blood Tracing the historical contours of the murder of Russia’s last tsar and his family in Yekaterinburg.

6 Nevyansk History and Architecture Museum Taking an excursion to the top of Nevyansk’s Leaning Tower for spectacular views.

7 Capova Cave Admiring its ancient rock drawings.

History

The Ural Mountains, running north to south and stretching from the Arctic ice to the Central Asian steppe, are one of the world’s oldest mountain chains, the geological consequence of a colossal continental collision that occurred over 300 million years ago. Today the range marks the borderline of these once separate landmasses – Europe and Asia.

Before the arrival of Slavs, the region was populated by Uralic tribes, whose contemporary descendants include the Khanty and Mansi peoples of Western Siberia as well as the Finns and Hungarians of central Europe.

Slavic Expansion

In the 16th century, the rising Muscovite principality won a series of strategic battles against its tribal foes that finally opened the way for eastward expansion. Russian settlement of the Ural Mountains was led by monks, merchants and Cossacks.

Russia gained control over the lands between Moscow and the Ural Mountains through the work of St Stephan, the bishop of Perm, who built a string of monasteries and converted the native tribes. Seeking to exploit the natural wealth of the taiga (northern pine), pioneering merchants followed the clergy. They set up markets next to the monasteries, erecting great churches with their profits from the fur trade. Industrial families such as the Demidovs and Stroganovs began establishing factories in the region.

Industrial Expansion

The discovery of mineral wealth in the Ural Mountains during the reign of Peter the Great led to the first large-scale Russian settlements. Yekaterinburg, founded in 1723 and named for the Empress Catherine I (Yekaterina), wife of Peter the Great, emerged as the region’s economic centre. Rich deposits of coal, iron ore and precious stones gave rise to a mining industry, including science and engineering institutes. By the early 19th century the region’s metals industry supplied nearly all the iron produced in Russia and exported to European markets. The Statue of Liberty in New York and the roof on London’s Houses of Parliament were made from copper and iron from the Ural Mountains.

In 1917 the Russian empire was consumed by the outbreak of revolution and civil war. Red revolutionaries and White loyalists fought back-and-forth battles across the Ural Mountains. Yekaterinburg became the site of one of history’s most notorious political murders when Tsar Nicholas, Tsaritsa Alexandra and their children were shot in the middle of the night and disposed of in an abandoned mine.

The region figured prominently in the Soviet Union’s successful industrialisation drive in the 1930s. Some of the world’s largest steelworks and industrial complexes were built there, including Uralmash in Sverdlovsk (modern-day Yekaterinburg), and in Magnitogorsk in Chelyabinsk.

During WWII more than 700 factories were relocated to the region, beyond the reach of the advancing Nazis. The Ural Mountains became a centre of Soviet weapons manufacturing: Kalashnikov rifles from Izhevsk, T-34 tanks from Nizhny Tagil and the quaintly named 'Katyusha' (Katya) rockets from Chelyabinsk. During the Cold War, secret cities, identified only by number, were constructed in the region to house the military nuclear and biochemical industries.

The Urals after Communism

In the late Soviet period, a Urals-bred construction engineer turned anticommunist crusader was instrumental in toppling the Soviet system. Boris Yeltsin had gained a reputation as the energetic and populist-leaning communist governor of Sverdlovsk when the reform-minded Mikhail Gorbachev first introduced him to the national political stage, a move that Gorbachev would soon regret.

In his political fights against the old Soviet order and the neocommunists of the post-Soviet transition, the region provided Yeltsin with strong support. Despite the hardships that radical economic reform inflicted on the heavily subsidised industrial sector, the region remained a strong power base for Yeltsin.

As elsewhere in Russia, the postcommunist transition in the Ural Mountains did not go according to the early optimistic plans. The region suffered the severe collapse of its manufacturing and agricultural sectors. Public employees went without wages. Rocket scientists became taxi drivers. Mafia turf wars were waged over the right to ‘protect’ the nascent private business sector.

Today the region has recovered to become an economic powerhouse in Russia, and the main town of Yekaterinburg is the most economically dynamic and politically liberal town in the Urals.

Perm Пермь

%342 / Pop 1.05 million / Time Moscow +2hr

‘Perm’ once referred to a mysterious Finno-Ugric land encompassing most of the northwestern Ural Mountains, colonised by Russians since the early medieval ages. But the city is relatively new, founded by the lieutenants of Peter I in 1723.

It is believed that Chekhov used Perm as the inspiration for the town his Three Sisters were so desperate to leave, and Boris Pasternak sent his Doctor Zhivago to a city clearly resembling Perm.

Located on the Kama River, Perm has long welcomed passers-by from various regions. Consequently, today's Perm is a cultural hotpot; the residents are welcoming and many of them speak English.

Perm has some interesting museums and cultural attractions, and is also the base from which to visit a great wooden architecture museum, located in Khokhlovka; the famous ice cave in Kungur; and a grim reminder of Soviet-era political persecution – the Perm-36 labour camp.

Perm

1Sights

1Museum of Perm PrehistoryC2

2Perm Regional MuseumC1

3Perm State Art GalleryB1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4KrasnovA3

PermturistB3

4Sleeping

5Eva HotelC2

6Hotel AstorC2

7Hotel PrikamyeC3

8Hotel UralB3

9Vicont HotelC2

5Eating

10Expedicia RestaurantD1

11Grill Taverna MontenegroD2

12Mishka FoodB2

13Pelmennaya No 2B3

14Sister's BarC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

15Molotov Bar & Beer ShopC3

16Old Moose PubB2

3Entertainment

17Tchaikovsky Theatre of Opera & BalletC2

Transport

AviakassaB3

Railways Booking OfficeB3

1Sights

Perm was one of the first cities in Russia to introduce the tourist-line concept and has two tourist trails, both around 5km in length with signposts in English. The green line tracks the main architectural sights, while the red line has more of a romantic focus, with local life and love stories interlaced into the city’s history. The Tourist Information Center has a free, multilingual Green Line booklet for self-guided city walks.

There are a number of good museums in town and every third Wednesday of the month entrance to most of them is free.

oMuseum of Contemporary Art PERMMMUSEUM

(Mузей современного искусства PERMM GOOGLE MAP ; %342-254 3552; www.permm.ru; bul Gagarin 24; R150; hnoon-9pm Tue-Sun)

This museum was opened in 2009 with the aid of gallery dealer Marat Gelman. At that time it was housed in the historic Perm River Station Hall. It moved in 2014 and today continues to play a pivotal role in the Perm contemporary-arts scene, with changing exhibits that attract a diverse crowd.

Museum of Perm PrehistoryMUSEUM

(Музей пермских древностей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-212 5657; www.museum.perm.ru/filiali/muzey-permskih-drevnostey; ul Sibirskaya 15; R120; h10am-7pm Fri-Sun, Tue & Wed, noon-9pm Thu)

The archaeological collection here encompasses over 2000 antiques, many from the Perm region. The highlight is a skeleton exhibit, where visitors will find a number of original and replica skeletons of dinosaurs and animals from prehistoric times. There is a big focus on the Permian period and animals unique to the area. Many of the explanations are in English.

Perm State Art GalleryGALLERY

(Пермская Государственная Художественная Галерея MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-212 2395; www.permartmuseum.ru; pr Komsomolsky 4; R120; h10am-7pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Thu, 11am-7pm Sun)

Housed in the grand Cathedral of Christ Transfiguration on the banks of the Kama, the Perm State Art Gallery is renowned for its collection of Permian wooden sculpture. Take trolleybus 1 to the stop Galereya, or trolleybus 5 to the stop Sovetskaya, or trams 3, 4, 7 and 11 to the stop Tsum.

The brightly coloured figures are a product of an uneasy compromise between Christian missionaries and the native Finno-Ugric population. The Finno-Ugric population closely identified the Christian saints these sculptures depict with their ancient gods and treated them as such by smearing their lips with the blood of sacrificed animals.

Perm Regional MuseumMUSEUM

(Пермский Краеведческий Музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museum.perm.ru; ul Monastyrskaya 11; R130; h10am-7pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, noon-9pm Thu)

Located inside the imposing Meshkov House, this regional museum only gets really interesting when you see the small collection of intricate metal castings of the ‘Perm animal style’ used in the shamanistic practices of ancient Finno-Ugric Permians.

WORTH A TRIP

PERM-36

Officially known as the Memorial Complex of Political Repressions, Perm-36 (Мемориальный комплекс политических репрессий GOOGLE MAP ; %342-212 6129; www.itk36-museum.ru; derevnya Kuchino, Perm Krai; strict regime entry R300, special regime entry R200, excursion R100; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun, tours in Russian at 10am, 11.30am, 1.30pm & 3pm), some 125km east of Perm, was a labour camp for dissidents from 1946 to 1987. It's one of the only remaining intact gulags in Russia and today acts as a museum, with exhibitions about the camp as well as changing displays that don't relate directly to life in the gulag.

It's a haunting site, isolated and set deep in a landscape that in summer is verdant and filled with birdsong. Countless artists, scientists and intellectuals spent years in the cold, damp cells here, many in solitary confinement. They worked at mundane tasks such as assembling fasteners and survived on measly portions of bread and gruel.

It's worth hiring a guide for the day to learn about the regimes and history of the gulag – and to get you there and back. The gulag is located on the outskirts of the village of Kuchino, about 25km from the town of Chusovoy, which itself is 100km from Perm. You can take a bus bound for Chusovoy or Lysva, get off at Tyomnaya station (R200, two hours), walk back to the main road and backtrack to the Kuchino turn-off (also leading to (Makhnutino), then walk another 2.5km to the village.

2Activities

oEvrasiaADVENTURE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %342-249 8222; www.permtours.com; ul Timiryazeva 50; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri)

Perm’s oldest tourism company specialises in custom-made tours of Perm and beyond, with everything from city and Perm-36 tours to outdoor rafting, cycling and hiking trips. English-, German-, Italian- and Spanish-speaking guides are available by request and service from the Evrasia team is impeccable. The Evrasia office stocks maps and the Green Line booklet.

KrasnovADVENTURE

(Краснов MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-238 3520; www.uraltourism.ru; ul Borchaninova 4; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, by arrangement Sat)

Offers active and adventure tourism such as rafting or cross-country skiing in the Urals, beginner Russian courses, river cruises and many more activities. The Russian version of the website has a wider and sometimes less expensive choice.

PermturistADVENTURE

(Пермтурист MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-218 6999; www.turizm-ural.ru; Hotel Ural, office 219, ul Lenina 58; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, by arrangement Sat)

Located inside the Hotel Ural, Permturist organises excursions (in Russian and English) to places like the Kungur Ice Cave, and also does city tours in Perm.

zFestivals & Events

oDiaghilev FestivalPERFORMING ARTS

(www.diaghilevfest.ru)

Perm is said to be the third ballet mecca, following Moscow and St Petersburg. Every two years the Diaghilev Festival (named after the famous Russian ballet star Sergei Diaghilev) attracts arts fans with its rich ballet and opera program.

Kamwa FestivalCULTURAL

(www.kamwa.ru)

The annual ‘ethno-futuristic’ Kamwa Festival held in summer in Perm and Khokhlovka brings together ancient ethno-Ugric traditions and modern art, music and fashion. Dates vary considerably each year – see the website.

4Sleeping

Hostel PHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %342-214 7847; www.permhostel.ru; ul Lenina 67; dm R400-700; aW)

Nine clean and pleasant rooms make up this friendly hostel, located close to Perm-II railway station, about 15 minutes' walk to the centre of town. There's a bright kitchen where guests can cook their own food, and there are laundry facilities (for an additional fee).

oEva HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-212 5858; www.eva-hotel.ru; ul Permskaya 63/1; incl breakfast s R3100-3800, d R3500-4200; paW#)

Located in the centre of town on a quiet street, Eva Hotel is a delightful boutique stay with just 10 light-filled rooms. Staff are courteous and will serve tasty breakfasts (with a changing weekly menu) in your room.

Vicont HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-215 5670; www.hotelvicont.ru; ul Sovetskaya 40; incl breakfast s R3200-5000, d R3600-5300; naW)

A pleasant boutique hotel located close to all the city attractions, Vicont Hotel has nine double rooms, with continental breakfasts served in-room or in the on-site cafe.

Hotel UralHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Урал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-218 6262; www.hotel-ural.com; ul Lenina 58; incl breakfast s R2700-7200, d R3600-12,400; niW)

This one-time Soviet monolith rising up in the heart of the city has adapted to the age and boasts a shimmering, high-tech lobby and modern, reasonably sized rooms.

Hotel PrikamyeHOTEL$$$

(Отель Прикамье MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-219 0840; www.prikamie-hotel.ru; pr Komsomolsky 27; incl breakfast s R3300-4600, d R3800-5300, ste R5600; nW)

Nicely spruced-up rooms in this former Soviet eyesore make Prikamye a very decent option. Deals are better if you book well ahead on the web.

Hotel AstorHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Астор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-212 2212; www.astorhotel.ru; ul Petropavlovskaya 40; incl breakfast s R3800-4300, d R4600-5600; naW)S

Spotless white dominates this hotel’s colour scheme. It's a favourite among business travellers, and rooms are low-allergy.

5Eating

Pelmennaya No 2RUSSIAN$

(Пельменная No. 2 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-212 3895; ul Lenina 47; pelmeni R160-340)

Designed to depict a typical Russian dacha (summer countryhouse), Pelmennya No 2 is where the masses come for pelmeni (Russian-style dumplings stuffed with meat). There's a wide selection of the famous Russian dumplings, with everything from chicken to pork to fish. Pelmennaya No 1 – part of the same chain and located a few blocks from the city centre – is a quieter option.

Sister's BarCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-259 2515; ul Lenina 54a; mains R240-440; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

Sisters Alaya and Ksenia opened this cafe in 2013 wanting to break away from their corporate jobs. The sisters enjoy Cantonese cuisine and food from the Basque region of Spain, so they serve a selection of dishes that are a bit of a mishmash. The indoor space is light and airy and there’s a balcony that fills up in summer.

Mishka FoodCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-203 0352; ul Osinskaya 19; mains R160-380; h10am-10pm; W)

Craving poached eggs? At Mishka Food there's a decent selection of modern cafe breakfast items available until 4pm. Breakfast, lunch or dinner, all the options are based on seasonal ingredients and look ever so pretty – make your decision by checking out mishka.food on Instagram.

Permskaya KukhnyaRUSSIAN$$

(Пермская Кухня GOOGLE MAP ; %342-244 1355; ul Gazety Zvezda 75; mains R219-369; h11am-11pm; aWv)

You can try Bashkir, Tatar, Russian and Finno-Ugric cuisine at this quirky and newly refurbished restaurant-museum. The manager is passionate about sharing his love for regional cuisine and might pop over to see what you think of the (sometimes) unusual menu offerings. Try the green soup – it's made from a wild herb that's endemic to the region.

SakartveloGEORGIAN$$

(Сакартвело GOOGLE MAP ; %342-206 2929; www.sakartvelo-perm.ru; ul Maksima Gorkogo 58; mains R350-900; h11am-midnight Sun-Fri, to 2am Sat; Wv)

This excellent Georgian restaurant makes good use of chilli in its dishes, including the excellent Tbilisi salad, a borsch with a chilli edge, and a good variety of shashlyk (meat kebab), served in a lavish but homely interior. There's a second location on ul Monastyrskya 12a.

oExpedicia RestaurantRUSSIAN$$$

(Ресторан Экспедиция MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-205 5975; www.expedicia-perm.ru; ul Monastyrskaya 3а mains R570-1680, business lunches from R350; hnoon-last guest leaves daily; a)

If you're happy to splash out you'll find spectacular northern Russian cuisine served here, with wild game and local fish dishes highly recommended. There's also a banya, a hotel and a gift shop for those who want to stay awhile.

Grill Taverna MontenegroBALKAN$$$

(Гриль-Таверна Монтенегро MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-212 1231; ul Maxima Gorkogo 28; mains R450-1960; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, 1-10pm Sun; W)

The trompe l’œil village fresco downstairs, upstairs pseudo-portico and outdoor terrace lend nice touches to this excellent restaurant. The Kalmyk lamb kebab is superbly grilled.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oMolotov Bar & Beer ShopBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-243 0326; ul Lunacharskogo 62b; h6-11pm Tue-Thu, 5pm-1am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun)

Molotov Brewery has been making its own Russian craft beers since 2012 – and in 2016 it opened a bar, which fills up with a beer-loving crowd most nights. The changing menu includes local and Russian beers, with at least five from Perm on sale at any one time. Usual pub fare, such as pizzas and burgers, is available.

Old Moose PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-203 2014; pr Komsomolsky 14; h2pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

Owner Illya set out to open a pub that served the best international beers in town. He succeeded and today attracts a diverse crowd with his wide selection of predominantly Belgian, English, Czech and German beers, both draft and bottled. There are two more locations in the city, with the same huge list of beer variants.

3Entertainment

Evgeny Panfilov Ballet TheatreBALLET

(Балет Евгения Панфилова GOOGLE MAP ; %342-271 6101; www.balletpanfilov.ru; ul Petropavlovskaya 185; tickets usually R200-500)

A wide range of dance performances are held here, some quite unique and memorable – such as performances by the 'Eugene Panfilov Ballet of the Fat' group.

Tchaikovsky Theatre of Opera & BalletTHEATRE

(Театр оперы и балета Чайковского MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %ticket office 342-212 3087; www.arabesque.permonline.ru; ul Petropavlovskaya 25; tickets R100-1000; hticket office 10am-2pm & 3-7pm)

Performances by students of one of Russia’s top ballet schools. Ticket prices depend on seat and performance.

8Information

Main Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 28; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)

Tourist Information Center (Туристский информационный центр GOOGLE MAP ; %342-241 1080; www.visitperm.ru; ul Lenina 39; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) The Perm Region Tourist Centre has a wealth of information about Perm city and Perm region. There are plenty of information booklets in English and English-speaking staff members are happy to help with any queries. They are also responsive to emails and it is generally one of the most helpful tourist centres in the country.

8Getting There & Away

Inside the Hotel Ural you will find a railways booking office ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-233 0203; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun) and an Aviakassa ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %342-233 2509; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun).

Air

Several airlines fly to Moscow (from R4400, two hours, frequent).

Boat

The river station (Речной вокзал) is at the eastern end of ul Monastyrskaya, in front of Perm-I station. Boats do short tours of the Kama in the navigation season. Evrasia and Permturist can organise tours.

Bus

From the bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; %342-236 4434; www.avperm.ru; ul Revolyutsii 68) numerous buses go to Kungur (R258, 1¼ hours); there are frequent buses to Khokhlovka (R118, 1½ hours) and two daily buses to Ufa (R1300, 11½ hours). Buses to Kazan depart every two days, with some additional services Friday and Saturday (R1500, 12 hours).

Train

Perm-II, the city’s major train station, 3km southwest of the centre, is on the trans-Siberian route. Many trains travel the route to/from Moscow, including all of the Trans-Siberian firmeny (premium, long-distance) trains. If you're on a tighter budget, many cheaper trains do the route from R1890. Heading east, the next major stop on the trans-Siberian route is Yekaterinburg (platskart/kupe R1000/1444, six hours). For Kazan (R1300, 19 hours) the most direct route is with an inconvenient change in Izhevsk. Buses can be better. Note that some trains depart from the gornozavodskoe napravlenie (mining track) on the north side of Perm-II, as opposed to the glavnoe napravlenie (main track). Trains to the east never depart from the mining track, only those to the north and west.

8Getting Around

Bus 42 and marshrutka (fixed-route minibus) 1t go between the bus station and the airport. Trolleybus 5 connects Perm-II station with Hotel Ural, tram 7 connects Perm-II with the corner of ul Lenina and ul Maksima Gorkogo via ul Petropavlovskaya, and tram 11 connects ul Maxima Gorkogo with the central market (about 400m from the bus station) via ul Petropavlovskaya and ul Borchaninova.

WORTH A TRIP

KHOKHLOVKA ХОХЛОВКА

For a day trip from Perm, travel some 45km north to this village where you'll find an impressive Architectural-Ethnographic Museum (Архитектурно-этнографический музей GOOGLE MAP ; http://heritage.perm.ru/hohlovka/; R120; h10am-6pm, closed last Mon in month). Its impressive collection of wooden buildings includes two churches dating from the turn of the 18th century. Most of the structures are from the 19th or early 20th centuries, including an old firehouse, a salt-production facility and a Khanty izba (traditional wooden cottage).

A few buses a day serve Khokhlovka from Perm (R118, 1½ hours), the best ones departing Perm at 9.55am and returning from Khokhlovka at 4.30pm.

Kungur Кунгур

%34271 / Pop 66,000 / Time Moscow +2hr

Kungur's main attraction is the frozen magic of its ice cave (Кунгурская ледяная пещера GOOGLE MAP ; %342-716 2602; www.kungurcave.ru; Filippovka village, Kungur rayon; guided tour R600-700, with laser show R700-800, private tour R1500; h10am-4pm, extended hours in summer). The network of caves stretches for more than 5km, although only about 1.5km are accessible. The ancient Finno-Ugric inhabitants of the region believed the cave to be the home of an underground creature, and the grottoes are adorned with ice formations and frozen lakes, although these are best seen in winter as most grottoes have minimal ice at other times.

The Ice Cave is about 5km out of town and you can enter only on guided tours. Bring warm clothes. The cost of the tour includes admission to a small museum on the site with displays of rocks and fossils.

The town itself is a little rundown and belies a skyline graced by a multitude of pretty church cupolas, including the 18th-century Tikhvinskaya Church in the centre and the Transfiguration Church on the other bank of the Sylva.

The beautiful countryside surrounding Kungur is great for outdoor sports, and bicycles as well as rafts, canoes and cross-country skis can be hired inexpensively at Stalagmit.

4Sleeping & Eating

Stalagmit Tourist ComplexHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %342-716 2602; www.hotel.kungurcave.ru; Kunger Cave; incl breakfast s R800-2000, d R1400-3000; nWs)

This popular complex is close to the cave entrance and offers excellent rooms with their own bathroom (the cheaper ones don’t have fridges and TV). Take bus 9 from the train station to the last stop.

Hotel IrenHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Ирень GOOGLE MAP ; %342-713 2270; www.hotel.kungur.ru; ul Lenina 30; r without bathroom R830-1830, incl breakfast s R1300-1800, d R2200-2500; nW)

In the centre of town, Hotel Iren is good value, but it doesn’t have a lift. Even the rooms without bathrooms are pleasant enough, and the shared toilets and showers are very clean.

Tri MedvedyaRUSSIAN$

(Три медведя GOOGLE MAP ; %342-713 6739; ul Vorovskaya 5; mains from R200; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Sat & Sun; W)

Across the bridge in the centre of town, the riverside cafe-disco Tri Medvedya has very decent food. Helpful staff can order a taxi for you back to the bus and train stations.

8Getting There & Around

Located on the Trans-Siberian route, Kungur is served from Perm by frequent intercity trains (R400 to R670, 1½ hours), suburban trains (R175, 2¼ hours, four daily) and trains to/from Yekaterinburg (R463 to R1358, four hours). Bus is the best option from Perm, however, with departures every one to two hours; the most convenient leaves Perm at 8.25am or 9.25am and returns from Kungur at 6.40pm or 7.55pm (R214, 2½ hours). Buses to Ufa (R840, one daily) depart at 10am.

In Kungur, the bus and train stations are located alongside each other. Bus 9 (every one to two hours) plies the route between Hotel Iren, the train and bus stations, and the Stalagmit complex.

Yekaterinburg Екатеринбург

%343 / Pop 1.5 million / Time Moscow +2hr

Gem rush, miners’ mythology, the execution of the Romanovs, the rise of Russia's first president, Boris Yeltsin, and legendary gangster feuds of the 1990s – Yekaterinburg is not only Russia's fourth-largest city, it is like a piece of conceptual art with a fascinating historical subtext.

Bustling, but less than startling on the outside, the political capital of the Ural Mountains is overflowing with history and culture, while its economic growth is manifested in a thriving restaurant scene and, as in many other regional capitals, in atrociously trafficked avenues.

With one of the best international airports in Russia and quite a few agencies experienced in dealing with foreign travellers, Yekaterinburg is a good base camp for exploring the Ural Mountains.

History

Yekaterinburg was founded as a factory-fort in 1723 as part of Peter the Great’s push to exploit the Ural region’s mineral riches. The city was named after two Catherines: Peter’s wife (later Empress Catherine I) and the Russian patron saint of mining.

The city is notorious, however, for being the place where the Bolsheviks murdered Tsar Nicholas II and his family in July 1918. Six years later, the town was renamed Sverdlovsk, after Yakov Sverdlov, a leading Bolshevik who was Vladimir Lenin’s right-hand man until his death in the flu epidemic of 1919. The region still bears Sverdlov’s name.

WWII turned Sverdlovsk into a major industrial centre, as hundreds of factories were transferred here from vulnerable areas west of the Ural Mountains. The city was closed to foreigners until 1990 because of its many defence plants.

During the late 1970s a civil engineering graduate of the local university, Boris Yeltsin, began to make his political mark, rising to become regional Communist Party boss before being promoted to Moscow in 1985. Several years later he was standing on a tank in Moscow as the leading figure in defending the country against a putsch by old-guard communists. He became the Russian Federation’s first president in June 1991.

That year Yekaterinburg took back its original name. After suffering economic depression and Mafia lawlessness in the early 1990s, the city has boomed in recent years. Yekaterinburg is one of the very few cities in Russia governed by a mayor, Yevgeny Roizman, not from a party loyal to the kremlin.

Yekaterinburg

1Top Sights

1Church upon the BloodC1

2Romanov Death SiteC1

3Vysotskiy Viewing PlatformC3

1Sights

4Ascension ChurchC1

5Boris Yeltsin Presidential CenterA1

6Chapel of the Revered Martyr Grand Princess Yelizaveta FyodorovnaC1

7Istorichesky SkverB3

8Literary QuarterC2

9Literary-Memorial House-Museum ReshetnikovC2

10Metenkov House-Museum of PhotographyC2

11Museum of Architecture and DesignB3

12Nevyansk Icon MuseumC4

13Rastorguev-Kharitonov MansionC1

14Ural Geological MuseumA5

15Yekaterinbrug History MuseumC2

16Yekaterinburg Museum of Fine ArtsB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

17Ekaterinburg Guide CentreA3

4Sleeping

18Hotel ChekhovB4

19Hotel TsentralnyC3

20Live HotelD4

21Novotel Yekaterinburg CentreC4

22Red Star HostelC4

23Tenet HotelA3

5Eating

24Cafe-Museum DemidovA2

25Khmeli SuneliD2

26NigoraB5

27PashtetC2

28Pelmeni ClubC3

Shoko KofeyniyaC3

29StolleB2

VertikalC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

30Ben HallC5

31Dr ScotchB3

32New BarB3

33Rosy JaneC3

3Entertainment

34Opera & Ballet TheatreD3

35PhilharmonicC2

7Shopping

36GrinvichB5

8Information

37Sverdlovsk Region Centre of TourismB3

38Tourist Information ServiceB4

Transport

39AeroflotD4

40Railway & Air KassaA4

1Sights

Each summer, after the snow has cleared in May, Yekaterinburg paints a red line on the footpath to guide visitors past major sights. It's marked on the tourist office city map. There’s also a second walking route available for English speakers. There’s no line painted anywhere for this one; instead, visitors are advised to go to izi.travel (https://izi.travel/en) and download the English-language audio guide.

oRomanov Death SiteCHURCH, MEMORIAL

(Место убийства Романовых MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Karla Libknekhta & ul Tolmachyova 34; hdawn-dusk)

The massive Byzantine-style Church upon the Blood (Храм на Крови MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 6168; www.hram-na-krovi.cerkov.ru; ul Tolmachyova 34) dominates this site where Tsar Nicholas II, his wife and children were murdered by Bolsheviks on the night of 16 July 1918. Nearby, the pretty wooden Chapel of the Revered Martyr Grand Princess Yelizaveta Fyodorovna (Часовня в честь великой княгини Елизаветы и инокини Варвары MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Tolmachyova 34b; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri) honours the imperial family’s great-aunt and faithful friend.

The executions took place in the basement of a local engineer’s house, known as Dom Ipatyeva (named for its owner, Nikolai Ipatyev). During the Soviet period, the building housed a local museum of atheism, but it was demolished in 1977 by then governor Boris Yeltsin, who feared it would attract monarchist sympathisers, and for many years the site was a vacant block marked by a small cross and the wooden chapel to Grand Princess Yelizaveta Fyodorovna. Yelizaveta Fyodorovna was a pious nun who met an even worse end than the other Romanovs when she was thrown down a mine shaft, poisoned with gas and buried.

oVysotskiy Viewing PlatformNOTABLE BUILDING

(Высоцкий небоскрёб MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-378 4646; www.visotsky-e.ru; ul Malysheva 51, fl 52; viewing platform R250-300, museum free; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun)

Take the lift up 52 floors to the viewing platform for one of Russia's best urban panoramas. Children under 15 years must be accompanied by an adult. The name of the tower is a pun on the Russian word for 'high' and the name of the singer Vladimir Vysotsky. A small museum is dedicated to 'Russia's raspy Dylan' here.

Yekaterinbrug History MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей истории Екатеринбурга MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 2111; www.m-i-e.ru; ul Karla Libknekhta 26; R200; h10am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun)

At one of the more contemporary museums in town, most of the focus is on Yekaterinburg through the 18th and 19th centuries. Most exhibits are captioned in English and there are plenty of interactive displays.

Ascension ChurchCHURCH

(Храм Вознесения Господня MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.voznesenka.cerkov.ru; ul Klary Tsetkin 11; hdawn-dusk)

The restored late-18th-century Ascension Church is the oldest in Yekaterinburg and rises up moodily alongside parkland that's perfect for a stroll.

Military Technology MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %343-684 7218, 343-684 6784; www.museum.elem.ru; ul Aleksandra Kozitsyna 2, Verkhnyaya Pyshma; exhibition hall R100, outdoor exhibition free; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)

This vast indoor and open-air collection of tanks and armoured vehicles is located on the northern outskirts of Yekaterinburg in Verkhnyaya Pyshma. It’s one of the largest of its kind in the world, with an extensive range of large military tanks and helicopters located outdoors, and smaller military craft and retro automobiles on display indoors.

Take bus 111 or marshrutka 111 or 111a from stop Kinotsentr Zarya (at Uralmash metro station) to Zavodskaya Stop.

Museum of Architecture and DesignMUSEUM

(Музей истории архитектуры и дизайна MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-372 0654; www.museumarch.com; ul Gorkogo 4a; R200; h11am-7pm Wed-Sat)

Situated on Istorichesky skver (Historical Sq), this museum is located on the grounds where the first ironworks was established in Yekaterinburg in 1723. In recent years the museum has had an overhaul, and today the former 19th-century factory and mint building houses a fascinating collection of miniature buildings depicting various historical eras throughout Yekaterinburg’s history.

Boris Yeltsin Presidential CenterMUSEUM

(Президентский центр Бориса Ельцина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %495-729 5463; www.yeltsincenter.ru/yeltsin-presidential-center; ul Borisa Eltsina 3; R200; hmuseum 10am-9pm Tue-Sun)

Traffic was stopped the day the Boris Yeltsin Presidential Center was opened in 2015. The mammoth site includes a museum, a conference centre, an art gallery and a bookshop, although it's the museum that is of most interest to visitors. The museum depicts the former Russian prime minister's life through seven interactive zones designed to represent seven historical days during his ruling.

Most of the exhibit descriptions in the museum are in Russian, but there is an audio guide available for English-speakers. There are a number of tours that visitors can book and, although these are only available in Russian now, there are plans to introduce English-speaking options eventually.

Urals Military History MuseumMUSEUM

(Уральский государственный военно-исторический музей GOOGLE MAP ; %343-246 5080; http://ugvim.ru; ul Krylova 2a; R180; h10am-8pm Wed, to 6pm Thu, to 5pm Fri-Sun)

Worthwhile for buffs, this military museum has two halls, one dedicated to the Urals Volunteer Tank Corp. Entry price is for both halls, but you can pay and visit only one if you wish. In the yard there's a collection of tanks and planes.

Yekaterinburg Museum of Fine ArtsMUSEUM

(Екатеринбургский музей изобразительных искусств MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 0626; www.emii.ru; ul Voevodina 5; R250; h11am-8pm Tue-Thu, to 7pm Fri-Sun)

The star exhibit of the Museum of Fine Arts is its elaborate Kasli Iron Pavilion, which won prizes in the 1900 Paris Expo. The museum has a good collection of icons, paintings and decorative art.

Nevyansk Icon MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Невянская икона MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-220 6650; ul Engelsa 15; R150; h11am-8pm Wed-Sun)F

Excellent icons from the 17th to the 20th centuries, from the local Nevyansk school.

Literary QuarterAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 0300; www.ompu.ur.ru)

Located north of skver Popova, the Literary Quarter features restored wooden houses, some of them now museums about celebrated local writers such as Dmitry Mamin-Sibiryak and Pavel Bazhov; a full list of museums is on the website.

Istorichesky SkverPARK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The prettiest and most lively part of Yekaterinburg in summer is the landscaped parkland alongside the City Pond (Gorodskoy prud), where pr Lenina crosses a small dam. This was where Yekaterinburg began back in 1723.

Metenkov House-Museum of PhotographyMUSEUM

(Фотографический музей Дом Метенкова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 0637; ul Karla Libknekhta 36; R150; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun)

All the exhibitions are temporary, but you’ll always find a room dedicated to Metenkov and his work here. Other exhibition spaces usually feature works from art residency participants and various other photos, often dedicated to Yekaterinburg and its history. Downstairs there’s a photography shop that sells old-fashioned cameras and souvenirs.

Museum of History, Science and Technology of the Sverdlovsk RailwayMUSEUM

(Музей истории, науки и техники Свердловской железной дороги GOOGLE MAP ; %343-358 4222; www.volzd.ru/museum-ekaterinburg.html; ul Vokzalnaya 14; R100; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat)

Railway buffs will enjoy the good collection here, housed in and around the old train station, dating from 1881. Exhibits highlight the history of the railroad in the Urals, including a re-creation of the office of the Soviet-era railway director.

Ural Geological MuseumMUSEUM

(Уральский геологический музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-257 2547; http://ugm.ursmu.ru; ul Kuybysheva 39; R100; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

Over 500 minerals from the Ural Mountains region and a collection of meteorites can be seen here.

Literary-Memorial House-Museum ReshetnikovMUSEUM

(Литературно-мемориальный дом-музей Решетникова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 4526; ul Proletarskaya 6; R70; h10am-7pm Tue & Fri, 11am-8pm Wed & Thu, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun)

Situated squarely in the literary quarter of Yekaterinburg, this museum re-creates some aspects of life in Reshetnikov's time, with a big focus on postal work since the author's father was a postman. Several sheds in the yard contain a blacksmith's workshop (complete with a blacksmith) and a small but interesting collection of 19th-century sleds and carriages.

Rastorguev-Kharitonov MansionHISTORIC BUILDING

(Усадьба Расторгуев-Харитонова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Karla Libknekhta 44)

Situated across the road from the site where the Romanov family was executed, this mansion dates from the late 18th and early 19th centuries and was one of the most significant buildings of the era. Today people come to admire the pretty angular facade and relax in the pleasant park behind it.

2Activities & Tours

Ekaterinburg Guide CentreADVENTURE

(Екатеринбургский центр гидов MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-384 0048; www.ekaterinburgguide.com; office 12, pr Lenina 52/1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri)

Organises English-language tours of the city and trips into the countryside, including Nevyansk, Tobolsk and Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha, as well as winter activities and summer hiking and rafting expeditions. Day trips cost anything between R1800 and R8800, depending on destination and numbers. It also books hotel and hostel accommodation, often at discount rates.

The centre can also take you to the historic but hard-to-reach Verkhoturye. If taking the seven-hour tour to Nevyansk and the nearby old potters’ village of Tavolgi, ask to stop on the way at the village of Kunary, where a local blacksmith has turned his wooden izba into a masterpiece of naive art.

Ural Expeditions & ToursADVENTURE

(%952-739 0736; www.welcome-ural.ru; office 24, ul Korepina 1a; h11am-5pm Mon-Fri)

This group of geologists, who graduated from the Sverdlovsk Mining Institute, leads trekking, rafting and horse-riding trips to all parts of the Ural Mountains, including Taganay and Zyuratkul National Parks. English-speaking guides.

Yekaterinburg For YouTOURS

(%912-280 0870; www.yekaterinburg4u.ru)

Experienced guide and journalist Luba Suslyakova offers a range of city and regional tours, including Nevyansk and the pottery town of Tavolgi, winter dog sledding, and the eclectic Mafia Tour, which takes visitors into the graveyards where Yekaterinburg's rival Uralmash and Central gangsters of the 1990s rest in peace.

WORTH A TRIP

EUROPE–ASIA BORDER

The Ural Mountains have numerous monuments marking the border between Europe and Asia. Interestingly, the border was thought to be the Don River by the Ancient Greeks, but Yekaterinburg’s founder Vasily Tatishchev drew it at the Ural Mountains in the mid-18th century, based on ideas of the day.

One of the more historic monuments is located 40km west of Yekaterinburg near Pervouralsk. It was erected in 1837 to commemorate a visit by Tsar Alexander II, who drank wine there and inadvertently began a favourite pastime of locals – drinking a glass in Europe and another glass in Asia (as if you needed an excuse!). To reach the monument, take a taxi (about R1000 return if you order in advance) to Pervouralsk. Expect to pay another R200 per hour for the driver to wait. Bus 150 leaves frequently from the Severny bus station to Pervouralsk (R97; platform 9).

The city has erected a new border marker, more conveniently located just 17km out of Yekaterinburg and looking a little like a mini Eiffel Tower. This one is more kitsch, but a taxi will take you out there for about R600 return, with an hour at the monument.

Expect to pay R3600 to R4000 as an individual (less in groups) with reliable outfits such as Ekaterinburg Guide Centre or Yekaterinburg For You.

4Sleeping

oRed Star HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-383 5684; www.redstarhostel.ru; ul Gorkogo 65; 6–12-bed dm R290-650, d R1600; nW)

This excellent hostel opened in 2014 and has quickly established itself as a comfortable, very professionally run place, with 44 beds divided among male, female and mixed dorms, and a double with a large bed. It can do registration. Take trolleybus 1 or 9 from the train station to stop Kuybsheva.

oHotel ChekhovBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-282 9737; http://chekhov-hotel.ru; ul 8 Marta 32; incl breakfast s R4500-5500, d R5000-6000; nW)

Hotel Chekhov offers modern, stylishly furnished rooms that make good use of exposed brick in a historic building. Take bus 23 from the train station to TRTs Grinvich.

Tenet HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-385 8582; www.tenethotel.ru; ul Khokhryakova 1a; d incl breakfast R3500-9000; naiW)

Opened in 2016, this hotel is conveniently located in the centre of town and attracts a mostly business crowd. The design is contemporary with nods to the city’s history through black-and-white photographs spread throughout the building. The restaurant, too, draws on this concept, with old classic Russian dishes vamped up with a modern twist.

Live HotelHOSTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-239 6969; www.live-ekb.ru; ul Krasnoarmeyskaya 72; dm/r from R600/2600; naiW)

A newcomer to Yekaterinburg, this large and modern complex includes a hotel, a hostel, a communal work space and a conference centre. Rooms in both the hostel and hotel are clean and comfortable, with pops of colour freshening up the design.

Marins Park HotelHOTEL$$

(Маринс Парк Отель GOOGLE MAP ; %343-228 0000; www.sv-hotel.ru; ul Chelyuskintsev 106; incl breakfast s R2300-3200, d R3100-4000; naW)

Marins Park has successfully reinvented itself as a modern congress hotel; all rooms are small, and while renovation in the cheaper ones is simply a coat of pastel paint, others have been thoroughly updated. It has two enormous advantages: it's right across the road from the train station, and it has free same-day laundry service.

oHotel TsentralnyHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(Отель Центральный MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-350 1004; www.hotelcentr.ru; ul Malysheva 74; incl breakfast s R2300-5000, d R3500-7000; nW)

Opened in 1928, this historic hotel is housed in a grand art nouveau building in the heart of town and has seen its fair share of celebrity guests. It has 98 excellent business-class and standard rooms and eating and nightlife options are never far away. Trolleybuses 1 and 9 are among the many going to the hotel from the train station.

The hotel also acts as a museum, with photo displays on floors three to five. Guests and visitors can book a historical excursion through the hotel grounds, which costs R200 and takes approximately 30 minutes.

Novotel Yekaterinburg CentreHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-253 5383; www.novotel.com; ul Engelsa 7; incl breakfast s R5900-7700, d R6900-8100, ste R11,000; naW)

This excellent four-star chain hotel in the centre has variable rates and good deals online. Rooms are clean and comfortable and service always comes with a smile. The easiest way from the station is trolleybus 1 or 9 to ul Rozy Lyuksemburg stop.

5Eating

Ul 8 Marta between pr Lenina and ul Malysheva has plenty of eating and drinking options, and ul Vaynera, which is partly pedestrian only, has a moderate choice of eateries. Whatever your food preference, there's a lot of choice, with everything from local fare to international cuisine to modern cafe nosh.

Pelmeni ClubRUSSIAN$

(Пельмени Клаб MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-271 3330; www.pelmeni-club.ru; ul Krasnoarmeyskaya 2; mains R190-470; W)

There's a great variety of pelmeni here, but what makes this restaurant stand out is the fact that you can learn to make your own. There is a second location on ul Lunacharskogo 82.

NigoraUZBEK$

(Нигора MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-295 1417; http://nigora.ru; ul Kuybysheva 55; mains R200; hnoon-midnight)

Yekaterinburg has several of these inexpensive Uzbek restaurants, all with young staff attired in Uzbek caps serving delicious Uzbek specialities. Manti (steamed, palm-sized dumplings), soups, sausages and shashlyk feature on the menu, including a very worthy lamb shashlyk. There are two other Nigora locations in town.

StolleCAFE$

(Штолле MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-253 8005; ul Gorkogo 7a; pierogi R45-290; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; v)

As well as dumplings, Stolle specialises in sweet and savoury Russian pirozhki (pies), which you can buy by weight at the counter for takeaway or enjoy here in a relaxed atmosphere. There are three more locations in the city.

oPashtetRUSSIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-228 0059; www.rest-pashtet.ru; ul Tolmacheva 23; mains R390-1550, business lunches R400; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W)

Reinvented Russian classics served in rooms designed to depict a traditional Russian summer dacha. Both the food and wine menus are extensive and the restaurant's house-made pâtés (pashtet in Russian) are definitely worth trying.

Cafe KuznyaRUSSIAN$$

(Кафе Кузня GOOGLE MAP ; %343-286 2925; www.gorn66.ru; ul Melkovskaya 3; mains R215-625; hnoon-11pm; Wv)

A fascinating cafe with wooden interiors crafted by one woodwork artist – Alexander Andreevich Lysyakov – and his students. The menu spans all the Russian classics with no surprises.

Khmeli SuneliGEORGIAN$$

(Хмели Сунели MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-350 6318; www.hmeli.ru; pr Lenina 69/10; mains R450; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

This large Georgian restaurant has a relaxed feel and is currently the best of its ilk in Yekaterinburg, serving a large range of soups, salads, fish and red-meat dishes and delicious shashlyk.

Cafe-Museum DemidovRUSSIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 7344; www.demidov-ural.ru; ul Fevralskoy revolyutsii 9; mains R510-1200)

A quirky cafe-museum spread over two storeys, where guests are encouraged to touch the random collection of exhibits. The food is simple Russian fare; there are no elaborate descriptions and the meals come presented as if grandma was serving at home.

Shoko KofeyniyaCAFE$$

(Шоко кофейня MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-380 6600; www.shoko-coffee.ru; ul Malysheva 74; mains R290-450; h8am-2am Mon-Fri, 6am-2am Sat, to midnight Sun; W)

This upmarket cafe is the pick of the crop among the cluster of bars and eateries located in and alongside the Hotel Tsentralny building. It has lighter dishes and a small selection of mains, but the desserts are the highlight. The hours are useful for chilling out late at night.

VertikalINTERNATIONAL$$$

(Вертикаль MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-200 5151; www.vertical51.ru; ul Malysheva 51, fl 51; mains R320-2000; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; a)

Located on the 51st floor of the Vysotsky tower, Vertikal offers a formal, upmarket experience of pan-European dishes and some steaks, and its trump card: sensational views over town. Reserve ahead.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oNew BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %953-058 4455; www.new-bar.ru; ul 8 Marta 8; h6pm-6am; W)

Relaxed art-scene cafe and cocktail bar on the top floor of Mytny Dvor mall. One storey below the same company restaurant serves Russian soul food and has a decent cocktail list. The restaurant is open noon to midnight daily.

Rosy JanePUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-317 1855; www.rosyjane.ru; pr Lenina 32/34; h7am-6am Mon-Thu, to 7am Fri, 9am-7am Sat, to 6am Sun; W)

This English-style pub aims at the New Russian drinking and eating crowd, who grace the bar and perch at polished wood tables gourmandising on steak and other very well-prepared Russian and international dishes (mains R550 to R1900). Steaks are top of the range. It serves decent breakfasts too, for early risers or those still out from the night before. Entry is off ul Gorkogo.

Dr ScotchPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 4363; www.doctorscotch.ru; ul Malysheva 56a; hnoon-2am)

Doc Scotch is one of the liveliest pubs in town and has the advantage of being very central. Inside, expect lots of wood and even more beer.

Ben HallPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-251 6368; www.benhall.ru; ul Narodnoy Voli 65; mains R250-950; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)

This popular pub hosts local rock bands and pop DJs at weekends, its owner being a well-known musician. Trams 15 and 27 from Operny Teatr or along pr Lenina to Tsirk (Цирк) drop you close by.

3Entertainment

PhilharmonicCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Филармония MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 343-371 4682; www.sgaf.ru; ul Karla Libknekhta 38; tickets from R200)

Yekaterinburg’s top venue for the classical performing arts often hosts visiting directors and soloists, as well as regular performances by the acclaimed Ural Mountains academic orchestra.

Opera & Ballet TheatreOPERA, BALLET

(Театр оперы и балета MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 343-350 8057; www.uralopera.ru; pr Lenina 46a; tickets from R150)

This ornate baroque theatre is a lovely place to see the Russian classics at a high standard.

7Shopping

GrinvichMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-222 2525; www.grinvich.com; ul 8 Marta 46; h10am-10pm)

This enormous shopping complex near the ul Vaynera pedestrian zone is an oasis away from the traffic.

8Information

Main Post Office (Почтамт GOOGLE MAP ; pr Lenina 39; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)

Sverdlovsk Region Centre of Tourism (Центр развития туризма Свердловской области MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-350 0525; www.gotoural.com; ul 8 Marta 13, 2 fl) Helpful city office with English-speaking staff. There are maps and brochures about Yekaterinburg as well as the whole Sverdlovsk Region.

Tourist Information Service (TIS; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-222 2445; www.its.ekburg.ru; ul 8 Marta 21; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun) Helpful official city tourist office, with free maps of town showing the Red Line walking trail to major sights.

Tourist Information Service ( GOOGLE MAP ; %343-222 2445; www.its.ekburg.ru; terminal b, fl 2; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri) Airport branch of the city tourist office.

8Getting There & Away

Air

The main airport is Koltsovo ( GOOGLE MAP ; %800-100 0333; www.koltsovo.ru), 15km southeast of the city centre. Frequent services include Moscow, Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk, Irkutsk, Khabarovsk, Ufa, St Petersburg, Samara, Vladivostok and a host of Black Sea hubs. International services include Frankfurt am Main (Germany), Beijing (China), Prague (Czech Republic) and Astana (Kazakhstan). Aeroflot ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-356 5570; www.aeroflot.ru; ul Belinskogo 41; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri) has offices here.

Bus

The main bus station (Южный автовокзал; Yuzhny avtovokzal GOOGLE MAP ; %343-257 1260; www.autovokzal.org) is 3km south of the city centre, but most buses also stop at the Northern Bus Station (Северный автовокзал; severny avtovokzal GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vokzalnaya 15a), conveniently located by the train station. Here you can catch frequent buses to Chelyabinsk (R550, four hours) and Alapaevsk (R380, three hours, five daily). There is also a bus station at Koltsovo airport serving destinations in the Sverdlovsk region and Chelyabinsk (R550, 3½ hours, frequent). Touts sell tickets for minibuses to Chelyabinsk (R700, 2½ hours, about every hour) at the main bus station.

Train

Yekaterinburg – sometimes still called ‘Sverdlovsk’ on timetables – is a major rail junction with connections to all stops on the Trans-Siberian route. All trains to Moscow stop at either Perm (R800, 5½ hours) or Kazan (R1180, 14½ hours). Frequent trains to/from Moscow include the Ural (R1700 to R3777, 26 hours, every couple of days) via Kazan. Heading east, the next major stops are Omsk (R1380, 14 hours) and Novosibirsk (R2134, 22 hours). You can buy tickets at outlets throughout the city, including the convenient Railway & Air Kassa (ЖД и Авиа кассы MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %343-371 0400; www.bilet-vsegda.ru; ul Malysheva 31d; h24hr).

8Getting Around

Bus 1 links the Sverdlovsk-Passazhirskaya train station and Koltsovo airport (one hour) from 6.30am to 11.30pm. Bus 039 goes from the airport to metro pl 1905 Goda. Marshrutka 39 goes to metro Geologicheskaya.

Many trolleybuses such as 1, 3 and 9 and marshrutky (pay on board) run along ul Sverdlova/ul Karla Libknekhta between the train station and pr Lenina. Marshrutka 21 connects the train station with pl 1905 Goda, continuing along ul 8 Marta to the Grinvich shopping centre. Bus 024 runs along ul 8 Marta to the Northern Bus Station alongside the train station. Trams 13, 15 and 18 cover long stretches of pr Lenina.

A single metro line runs between the northeastern suburbs and the city centre, with stops at the train station (Uralskaya), pl 1905 Goda and ul Kuybysheva near the synagogue (Geologicheskaya).

Around Yekaterinburg

Ganina Yama Ганина Яма

Monastery of the Holy MartyrsCHRISTIAN SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %343-217 9146)

After the Romanov family was shot in the cellar of Dom Ipatyeva, their bodies were discarded in the depths of the forests of Ganina Yama, 16km northeast of Yekaterinburg. In their honour, the Orthodox Church has built the exquisite Monastery of the Holy Martyrs at this pilgrimage site. Expect to pay from R3600 to R4200 as an individual (less in groups) on tours conducted by Ekaterinburg Guide Centre or Luba Syuslakova.

The nearest train station to Ganina Yama is Shuvakish, served by elektrichki (suburban trains; R56, 30 minutes, every one to two hours) from the central station. Buses from the Northern Bus Station (Severny) run out here at 3.30pm Saturday and 10am Sunday (platform 11), returning at 8pm Saturday and 11.30am Sunday.

Nevyansk Невья́нск

The small town of Nevyansk is in the heart of the former patrimony of the Demidovs, a family of industrialists who effectively controlled much of the Ural Mountains and who received Peter I’s blessing to develop the region. At their most decadent stage, they bought the Italian feudal title of Count San-Donato.

Nevyansk History and Architecture MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %excursion booking 343-564 4509; http://museum-nev.ru; pl Revolyutsii 2; museum R70, Nevyansk tower group excursion for 1-5 people R1500; h9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun, excursions from 10am)

The Nevyansk Leaning Tower is an impressive structure flanked by an equally impressive Saviour-Transfiguration Cathedral. The worthwhile excursions (in Russian) into the tower are the only way to climb up for the fantastic views, unless you can latch onto a group. Elektrichki (R142, 2½ hours, nine daily) – some of them express trains (1½ hours) – run to Nevyansk, most bound for Nizhny Tagil.

ByngiHOMESTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-922 158 2183, in Germany Oct-Apr +49 421-40 89 66 60; www.semken.eu; ul Frunse 25, in Byngi; s/d incl full board €80/125; hMay-Sep)

Seven kilometres from Nevyansk, the lovely Byngi is the perfect place to experience Russian life in an Old Believers’ village. Here an entrepreneurial German and his Russian wife have converted an izba (log house) into a guesthouse in the main building and erected four summer yurts in the yard.

Elektrichki (R142, 1½ to 2½ hours, nine daily) serve Nevyansk.

Excursions are available, and on a visit you will be very much integrated eclectically into local life in and around the village.

Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha Нижняя Синячиха

The village of Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha, about 150km northeast of Yekaterinburg and 12km north of Alapaevsk, is home to an excellent open-air Architecture Museum (Нижнесинячихинский музей-заповедник GOOGLE MAP ; %343-467 5118; http://нс-музей.рф/; ul Pervomaiskaya 20; excursions R250-400; h10am-5pm) of traditional Siberian log buildings, featuring displays of period furniture and domestic articles. Excursions of the museum are in Russian only, but you can wander around the grounds without a guide. While in town, visit the stone cathedral, which houses a good collection of regional folk art. This impressive ensemble of art and architecture was gathered from around the Ural Mountains and recompiled by the single-handed efforts of Ivan Samoylov, an enthusiastic local historian.

Five buses a day go to Alapaevsk (R297, three hours) from Yekaterinburg (Yuzhny Avtovokzal). Take a taxi (%08-912-037 3924) from Alpaevsk to Nizhnyaya Sinyachikha and back (one way R250 to R300).

Ufa Уфа

%347 / Pop 1.13 million / Time Moscow +2hr

Ufa is the capital of the autonomous republic of Bashkortostan (Республика Башкортостан), home of the Bashkirs, a Muslim Turkic people who dominated most of the southern Ural Mountains before Russian colonisation. Although they’re only a third of the republic’s population, you can hear their lispy language spoken on the streets of Ufa, in rural areas and on the radio. Substantial hydrocarbon reserves have turned Bashkortostan into something of an oil khanate.

Ufa has a few interesting sights and you can spend a pleasant day walking through the streets exploring. Beyond Ufa, village life dances to a different beat. In districts such as Ishambai, Baimak, Abzilil, Kugarchinski and Zianchurinski, all accessible by road, locals welcome travellers into their homes and share their food and their stories. All you need is a sense of adventure...and perhaps some Russian or Bashkir language skills.

1Sights

oPark VatanCULTURAL CENTRE

(Парк Ватан GOOGLE MAP ; %347-266 1960; www.parkvatan.ru; hnoon-9pm)

Park Vatan is a unique collection of boutique shops and arts-exhibition spaces housed in traditional yurts. Visitors can purchase delicacies such as local honey, drink local tea, and learn about the Republic of Bashkortostan as they move from yurt to yurt.

Bashkortostan National MuseumMUSEUM

(Национальный музей Башкортостана GOOGLE MAP ; %347-272 1250; www.museumrb.ru; ul Sovetskaya 14; R150; h11am-6pm Tue-Fri & Sun, noon-8pm Sat)

Housed in a renovated art-nouveau building, this museum is spread over two floors with thousands of exhibits spanning culture, ethnography, history and the natural environment. The exhibits on Bashkir history, including examples of yurt life, are the most interesting; all descriptions are in Russian. Walk a few minutes south along ul Lenina from the Trading Arcade to ul Pushkina.

Nesterov Art GalleryGALLERY

(Картинная Галерея Нестерова GOOGLE MAP ; %347-272 1385; www.museum-nesterov.ru; ul Gogolya 27; R100; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, noon-8.30pm Sat, 10am-6.30pm Sun)

This small but interesting gallery contains a fabulous collection of more than 100 artworks by Ufa native Mikhail Nesterov and 50 paintings by Ukrainian futurist David Burlyuk, which he left in a Bashkir village when escaping from the Red Army during the Civil War. It’s located two blocks west of ul Lenina, on the corner of ul Pushkina.

Trading ArcadeHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-298 1058; www.gostinka.com; ul Verkhnetorgovaya 'ploshchad' 1; h10am-9pm)

The focus of appealing ul Lenina is the 19th-century Trading Arcade, set back from the street. Behind the renovated facade is a luxuriously marble-lined shopping mall full of boutiques, cafes and shops selling local Bashkir honey. Take any marshrutka going to the stop Gostinny Dvor (Гостиний двор).

WORTH A TRIP

CAPOVA CAVE

Located on the banks of the Belaya River in Burzyansky district, Capova Cave (Shulgan-Tash; GOOGLE MAP ; %08-937-840 9840; www.capova.ru; standard excursion R360, real drawings excursion R4000; h9am-7pm, excursions 10am-5pm) is a limestone cave most famous for its ancient rock drawings from the Paleolithic era. There are over 170 of these ancient images – most of them at least 18,000 years old and some up to 36,400 years old.

A standard excursion (R360) includes entry to the first hall of the cave where you can see high-quality photos of the ancient drawings. With advance notice and a hefty fee (R4000), it is possible to visit halls two and three where the real drawings are found, although there is talk of eventually discontinuing this option to better preserve the art.

The area is also famous for the traditional art of beekeeping. Wild bees live in the hollows of trees and the Bashkir people climb the trees to extract the honey, which is interesting to watch.

Capova Cave is located approximately 400km from the Ufa. Take the bus from Dvorec Molodezhi on ul 50 let Oktyabrya 21 (R600, daily at 5pm, in summer 10am and 5pm). From the small town of Starosubkhangulovo to the cave it's about 35km and is easiest by flagging down a local taxi or hitchhiking.

2Activities & Tours

TengriADVENTURE SPORTS

(Тенгри GOOGLE MAP ; %347-088 9976; www.tengri.ru; office 309, 3rd fl, pr Oktyabrya 31; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat)

Offers a wide range of inexpensive adventure trips in the southern Urals. Horse riding, rafting and hiking are just some of the options.

In EthnosTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08-793-7332 3422; www.inethnos.com; ul Mendeleeva 104; h9am-7pm)

Offers a range of day tours from Ufa, the highlight of which is a visit to Shikhany Mountains – the oldest in the world, and about an hour's drive out of Ufa.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

SHIHANY MOUNTAINS

These ancient mountains hold deep meaning for the local people, who want to increase visitor numbers so that businesses realise their worth and don't destroy them for their limestone.

Today there are three peaks remaining (there were four but a factory business demolished one) and they are said to be some of the oldest mountains in the world, at around 285 million years of age.

Interestingly, they are composed of tiny coral rocks, demonstrating that this area was once deep under the sea. Today you can hike up the mountains and easily come across the coral rocks, some of which still have seashell fossils engraved onto them. Afterwards, it's worth taking a stroll around the local village Urman Bishkazak.

To get to Shihany Mountains, take a bus from Yuzhny Bus Station in Ufa to Sterlitamak (R300, 1½ hours, hourly), then take a taxi to the mountains (R250 to R300, 20 minutes; call 347-333 3222). Alternatively you can book a tour with In Ethnos.

zFestivals & Events

International Festival of ArtsCULTURAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.heartofeurasia.ru; ul Zaki Validi 2)

A five-day cultural festival executed over two amphitheatres with a big focus on music and dance. Check the website for dates.

4Sleeping

Hostel AfrikaHOSTEL$

(Хостел Африка GOOGLE MAP ; %08-927-236 2099; www.ufahostel.ru; ul Zapototskogo 10; 4–10-bed dm R450-1500; nW)

This hostel run by a Russian couple is used to putting up foreigners. Rooms are bright and there's a communal kitchen. It doesn't do registrations. Bus 74 runs here to the stop Park im Yakutova (Парк им. Якутова) from the train station.

Hotel AzimutHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-235 9000; www.azimuthotels.com; pr Oktyabya 81; s/d incl breakfast from R2300/3500; naiW)

Located 5km from the central area, Azimut is a comfortable, contemporary hotel with good connections to the centre and train station. Two excellent places are very close by: the restaurant Burzhuika and the live-music pub Rock's Cafe. Take buses or marshrutka 226, 249 or 290 from the centre or 74 from the train station to stop 'Gossovet' (Госсовет).

Hotel BashkiriaHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Башкирия GOOGLE MAP ; %347-279 0000; www.gkbashkortostan.ru; ul Lenina 25-29; s/d incl breakfast from R4900/6200; aiWs)

Recently renovated, Hotel Bashkiria offers a comfortable and convenient stay in the centre of town.

Hotel AgidelHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Агидель GOOGLE MAP ; %347-272 5680; www.agidelhotel.ru; ul Lenina 16; incl breakfast s R2500, d R3900-8000; naW)

Rooms are comfortable, tastefully furnished and fully renovated in this centrally located hotel almost opposite Gostinny Dvor.

5Eating & Drinking

PishkaCAFE$

(Пышка GOOGLE MAP ; %347-216 1615; www.pishka.ru; ul Revolyutsionnaya 32; meals R200; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

This branch of the Pishka chain serves classic Bashkir dishes such as belish (meat pie) and tukmas (chicken broth). Also try one of the pastries from the bakery section. Take any bus or marshrutka from the centre to the stop TK Tsentralny (ТК Центральный).

Ashhana NeneykaBASHKIR$

(Ашхана Нэнэйка GOOGLE MAP ; %347-216 5535; pr Oktyabrya 4/2b; mains R125-330; hnoon-11pm)

Good-value, local cuisine the way a Bashkir grandma would make it. Try the horse-meat momo (Tibetan dumpling) if you dare. There are two more locations in Ufa.

BurzhuikaINTERNATIONAL, RUSSIAN$$

(Буржуйка GOOGLE MAP ; %347-257 2585; www.burzhuynka.com; pr Oktyabrya 79/1; 2/3 courses R290/340; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; Wv)

Ufa's hippest location for dinner, drinks or a hookah is located near Hotel Azimut. The food is excellent and served in well-sized portions. Take buses or marshrutka 226, 249 or 290 from the centre or 74 from the train station to stop Gossovet (Госсовет).

oAzyk-TulekBASHKIR$$$

(Азык-Тулек GOOGLE MAP ; %347-216 2168; ul Karla Marksa 3b; mains R640-1090; hnoon-11.45pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)

An imaginative and modern take on Bashkir cuisine makes this one of the best dining choices in town. All dishes are beautifully presented and service comes with a smile. The entrée menu is particularity interesting and the wine list is extensive.

Coffee-TimeCAFE

(Кофе-Тайм GOOGLE MAP ; %347-272 0435; ul Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii 3; coffee from R90; h24hr; W)

One of Ufa’s most popular spots for a coffee break, with jazz music, B&W photos and fashionable young folk.

3Entertainment

oUfa Jazz ClubJAZZ

(Уфимский джаз клуб GOOGLE MAP ; %347-223 0100; www.jazzclubufa.com; ul let SSSR 50; performances R70, mains R210-490; h9am-midnight Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat & Sun)

It's worth venturing out of the centre of town for a night of soulful music, and Ufa Jazz Club delivers. Live-music performances include local jazz bands as well as international bands and artists.

Bashkir State Opera and Ballet TheatreTHEATRE

(Башкирский государственный театр оперы и балета GOOGLE MAP ; %tickets 347-273 8472; www.bashopera.ru; ul Lenina 5/1; performances R150-650; hticket office 9am-7.30pm)

A beautiful, historical theatre popular with locals and travellers alike. It's also the theatre where Rudolf Nureyev took his first steps.

Rock's CafeLIVE MUSIC

( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-292 7927; www.rockscafe.ru; pr Oktyabrya 79/1, set back from street; free except for larger acts; h7pm-2am Thu & Sun, to 6pm Fri & Sat)

Not to be missed for live gigs, Rock's lives up to its name with local and national acts.

Lights of UfaLIVE MUSIC

(Огни Уфы GOOGLE MAP ; %347-290 8690; www.ogni-ufa.ru; ul 50 let Oktyabrya 19; hnoon-2am; W)

Concert hall, disco, sports bar and microbrewery in one. From ul Lenina, take any bus north to Dom Pechati Stop.

8Information

Pick up the Ufa City Transport Map (Схема городского транспорта Уфы; R43) from the Belaya Reka Dom Knigi ( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-273 4085; ul Lenina 24; h9.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-8pm Sat & Sun) bookshop, which has all routes (with a few inaccuracies) and stops and doubles as a useful street map.

Post Office (Почтамт GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 28; internet per hr R39; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun, internet 8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Internet is left from the entrance.

Tourist Information Centre i-UFA (Туристический информационный центр i-UFA GOOGLE MAP ; %347-272 7788; www.i-ufa.com; ul 50 let Oktyabrya; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) English-speaking staff work at this tourist centre.

8Getting There & Away

The train station is 2km north of the centre at the end of ul Karla Marksa. There are daily trains to Moscow (R1437 to R2672, 27 hours) some via Samara (R750 to R1645, 8½ hours). Trains also go to Ulyanovsk (R1100, 14 hours) in the west and Chelyabinsk (R715 to R999, 9½ hours) in the east. There is an overnight service to Magnitogorsk (R602, nine hours). Air and train tickets are available from Sputnik Yulgash (Спутник Юлгаш GOOGLE MAP ; %347-273 8666; www.sputnik-ufa.ru; ul Tsyurupy 93; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat), including a daily flight to Kazan.

8Getting Around

The handy if convoluted bus 101 route snakes between the train station (climb the high steps outside to the top) and the airport, via Yuzhny Vokzal bus station and Gostinny Dvor on ul Lenina.

Ufa to Chelyabinsk

The area west of Chelyabinsk is called Sinegorye (Blue Mountains). Unlike its Australian namesake, it is conifer rather than eucalyptus forest that makes the low, gently sloped ranges of the southern Ural Mountains look like frozen blue waves. Also blue are the large placid lakes between the mountains, of which the most lauded are Lakes Turgoyak and Zyuratkul. The lakes and two national parks are accessed from stations along the Ufa–Chelyabinsk railway.

Zyuratkul National Park

The very remote and quietly beautiful Zyuratkul National Park is a great place for hiking, climbing the Zyuratkul range, swimming in a lake, going to a banya (hot bath) and sleeping in a log house. If you stay on the lake, you may wake up and feel rather like Henry Thoreau at Walden Pond.

The national park is dominated by several forest-covered ranges and Lake Zyuratkul, which translates from Bashkir as ‘heart lake’. This is best observed from the Zyuratkul range nearby – an easy four-hour hike along a boardwalk through the forest and then along the mostly well-marked mountain path, though the kurum (path of loose rocks) at the top can be challenging in wet weather. Access is through the wooden arch on the main road, 100m before the lake and about a 10-minute walk back from Ecopark Zyuratkul.

4Sleeping

Zyuratkul National Park GuesthousesCAMPGROUND$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %351-613 2183; www.zuratkul.ru; 4-/10-bed cottages R2000/5500)

Zyuratkul National Park guesthouses are a 10-minute walk along the main road curving around the lake shore from the settlement around Ecopark Zyuratkul. Staff can also organise overnight guided expeditions into the park.

Ecopark ZyuratkulHOTEL, RESORT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-922 716 1944; www.eco-zuratkul.com; Lake Zyuratkul; r without bathroom R2800, cottages sleeping 4/5/7 R12,000/15,000/21,000)

This resort consists of cottages and a simple hotel. Stays of less than two nights cost about 20% more. You'll find yourself in a realm of manicured lawns, asphalt paths, tennis courts, large modern cottages and a restaurant, but it is a well-run and friendly resort that offers a wide range of activities, including expeditions into the wilderness.

GETTING TO ZYURATKUL

Getting to Zyuratkul National Park takes a little planning. Coming from Chelyabinsk, catch the bus to Satka and then a taxi to Zyuratkul. Travelling from west to east, get off the train at Berdyaush, take a taxi to Zyuratkul and then a taxi either back to Satka for the Chelyabinsk bus or to Berdyaush for the train.

Trains to Berdyaush

The main way from Ufa or Chelyabinsk into Zyuratkul National Park is by long-distance train to Berdyaush (Ufa R574, 5½ hours; Chelyabinsk, seats: R376 to R539, 3¾ hours). The town of Suleya (west of Berdyaush) is also an option.

Marshrutky Between Berdyaush & Satka

Marshrutky leave Berdyaush from the bus station (near the train station) and Satka from the main bus station (40 minutes) almost hourly every day.

Buses Between Satka & Chelyabinsk

At least four buses go daily to/from Chelyabinsk Severny bus station (R495, four hours).

Taxis to Lake Zyuratkul

There are no marshrutky or buses to the lake, so you need to take a taxi – the best springboard is Berdyaush, but Satka (off the main line) is also good. Taxis from either cost roughly R1500 and take about an hour.

Satka taxi companies (%351-614 3444, 08-904-814 4114) Book an hour or more ahead for taxis to the lake.

Ecopark Zyuratkul This tourist base can book taxis for you (one way R1000 all up).

Taganay National Park

Dramatically set in a lake-filled valley, the town of Zlatoust (285km from Ufa) serves as the gateway to Taganay National Park (Национальный парк Таганай GOOGLE MAP ; %351-366 3433; www.taganay.org) one of the most popular hiking, mountain biking and rafting getaways in the Ural Mountains.

4Sleeping

Taganai Travel TurbazaLODGE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %351-366 3433; Pushkinsky Poselok, Zlatoust; camping R150, 4-/6-bed cottages R1500/2000)

Located at the Taganay National Park’s entrance, with spartan cottages and banya on the premises. Organise stays through Taganay Park Headquarters.

Hotel BellmontHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Бельмонт GOOGLE MAP ; %351-365 5700; www.bellmont.ru; ul Taganayskaya 194a, Zlatoust; s R1800-3500, d R2990-4100, ste R5200; W)

A good business-class option in Zlatoust with sauna and beauty treatments.

8Information

Taganay Park HeadquartersTOURIST INFORMATION

(Национальный парк Таганай GOOGLE MAP ; %351-366 3433; www.taganay.org; ul Shishkina 3a, Zlatoust)

The headquarters is located on the other side of Zlatoust from the national park and reached by marshrutka 33. The park administration can organise a stay at one of the kordony (forest lodges) inside the national park and at Taganai Travel Turbaza.

8Getting There & Around

Zlatoust is served by long-distance trains from Ufa on the Ufa–Chelyabinsk route (R610, 6½ hours) and frequent elektrichki trains from Chelyabinsk (from R380 to R460, three hours).

The park entrance is located on the outskirts of Zlatoust, reached from the train station by marshrutka 33. From its final stop, take the road leading towards the forest to a signposted turn.

WORTH A TRIP

LAKE TURGOYAK

Although it’s not as isolated or as beautiful as some other lakes in the region, Lake Turgoyak (http://turgoyak.com), near the factory town of Miass, is surrounded by mountains and provides a tranquil getaway for the locals of Chelyabinsk.

Club-Hotel Golden Beach (Клуб-отель Золотой пляж GOOGLE MAP ; %351-329 8091; www.goldenbeach.ru; weekday/weekend s R4100/5800, d R5100/6300; nas) is one of the prime resorts on the lake, popular with Russian holiday-makers when the sun comes out. Golden Beach can organise boat trips to St Vera’s Island, the location of an ancient site abandoned about 9000 years ago and later used by Old Believers in the 19th century. Excursions last two hours, including the 30-minute each-way trip, and take in monoliths and small caves.

Taxi Miass (%351-328-4949) takes you from Miass to Golden Beach hotel for about R400 to R500 (no other transport goes there). Miass can be reached by long-distance trains and regular elektrichki (R280, two hours) from Chelyabinsk.

Chelyabinsk Челябинск

%351 / Pop 1.2 million / Time Moscow +2hr

Industrial and earthy, Chelyabinsk would at first glance seem to be a place best visited as a springboard rather than as a destination in itself, but dig beneath the surface and you'll find a pleasant place to explore. The city has broad avenues, numerous green spaces, and a few interesting museums, with exhibitions spanning everything from modern arts to historical artifacts. One of the most interesting of these is the meteor remnants (Chelyabinsk made headlines as the closest city to the site of a 2013 meteor explosion) displayed at the Chelyabinsk State Museum of Local History.

Beyond the city, the lakes and small towns of the region are pleasant to visit, so it's worth taking the time to stay in this oft-overlooked and underrated city to get a taste of everyday Ural Mountains life.

1Sights

Ulitsa KirovaSTREET

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kirova)

Chelyabinsk’s highlight is strolling down the cobblestone pedestrian-only ul Kirova, where shops, cafes and life-sized bronze statues of local personalities dot the street.

Chelyabinsk State Museum of Local HistoryMUSEUM

(Государственный исторический музей Южного Урала GOOGLE MAP ; %351-263 0832; www.chelmuseum.ru; ul Truda 100; Russian/foreigner R350/400; h10am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)

The modern Chelyabinsk State Museum of Local History uses natural light well to create an attractive exhibition space, a space that is home to over 300,000 artifacts. The highlight is the fragment of meteorite, discovered in the region after the 2013 explosion that took place not far from the city.

The exhibits about the region’s prehistory and fauna and flora are also very worthwhile, as are the displays about Russians living in the Urals through time. Some explanations are in English

Chelyabinsk Region Art MuseumGALLERY

(Музей изобразительных искусств GOOGLE MAP ; %351-266 3817; www.chelmusart.ru; ul Truda 92a, pl Revolyutsii 1; Russian/foreigner R170/400; h11am-7pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, noon-8pm Thu)

The museum is spread across two locations and contains a small and moderately interesting collection of European and Russian paintings and earthenware. The two complexes also house changing exhibitions.

4Sleeping

Yuzhny UralHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %351-247 4510; www.hotel74.ru/ural; pr Lenina 52; incl breakfast s/d without bathroom R850/1600, r R3500; nW)

The higher-priced rooms in this hotel are shoddy and poor value for money, but the rooms without bathrooms – though in even worse shape – are a safe, cheap option in town. The central location is a big plus. Take any transport going to pl Revolyutsii.

oCongress Hotel MalakhitHOTEL$$

(Конгресс-отель Малахит GOOGLE MAP ; %351-245 0575; www.hotel74.ru/malahit; ul Truda 153; incl breakfast s R2300-3900, d R3500-4800; naiW)

This hotel has reinvented itself as a spa hotel with a sauna, a small sauna pool and treatments. Rooms are modern and clean, at rates often considerably less than its formal prices. Malakhit houses Mirage, a lively disco and karoake bar. Take bus 18 or tram 3 or 5 from the train station to stop Operny Teatr.

ParkcityHOTEL$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %351-731 2222; www.parkcityhotel.ru; ul Lesoparkovaya 6; incl breakfast s R4500-5500, d R5500-6400, ste R7000-9000; naiW)

This hotel has friendly, efficient staff and, as well as the usual business facilities, bicycles for hire. Mini-standard rooms for singles cost R2900, and other discounts are available. Marshrutky 3 and 86 run here from pl Revolyutsy.

5Eating

BrothersEUROPEAN, ASIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %351- 264 2446; ul Kirova 110; mains R80-320; hnoon-midnight; W)

Two brothers opened this cafe in 2016, wanting to create a space where customers could enjoy healthy clean food with a dose of fun. Food options include soups, Asian-inspired salads and stir-fries and grills and the coffee is decent. They also run fun events suitable for solo travellers, including dance performances, and English-speaking classes combined with Xbox games.

White MilleryBAKERY$

(Белая мельница GOOGLE MAP ; %351-782 6591; ul Kirova 92; 0.5kg bread from R30; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; v)

Owner-baker Katarina makes some of the best bread in town and her specialty is unleavened bread. You’ll also find spices, honey and the shop’s own line of cosmetics in the neatly presented space.

oUralskiye PelmeniRUSSIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %351-265 9591; pr Lenina 66a; pelmeni R255-R595, mains R295-R895; h9am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri, noon-2am Sat, to midnight Sun; aW)

When Russians first crossed the Urals, they were a tribe of porridge-eaters, but through the encounter with Asian tribes they found something that changed their cuisine forever – pelmeni (Russian-style ravioli). This two-storey restaurant-cum-disco (often heaving with golden oldies) is all about pelmeni, with plenty of fillings – such as rabbit, goose and eel – to choose from.

Meet.PointINTERNATIONAL, SUSHI$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.mega74.ru; ul Kirova 143; bento lunches R200-R320, mains R230-R550; h11am-5am Sun-Thu, to 6am Fri-Sat; Wvc)

As well as a small selection of Russian and international mains, this cafe, bar, restaurant and – later in the evening – dance space and karaoke hall serves Japanese cuisine, pizza, various international dishes and specialises in grilled meats. It has a children's play area and hookah-smoking area.

Tsyplyata TabakaGEORGIAN, UZBEK$$

(Цыплята табака GOOGLE MAP ; %351-266 1485; www.ct-chel.ru; ul Kirova 139; mains R300-950; h11am-12pm; aWc)

One of the oldest restaurants in town, Tsyplyata Tabaka is all about chicken tabaka, a Georgian speciality consisting of a whole pan-fried chicken. The wide-ranging menu also spans Russian favourites, with plenty of meat, poultry and seafood dishes on offer. In the summertime the terrace is a lovely spot to sit and watch the world go by.

6Drinking & Nightlife

MaximiliansPUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %351-220 3510; www.maximilians.ru/chel; ul Truda 183; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)

The Chelyabinsk branch of this popular chain of Bavarian-style pubs serves filling, hearty fare (business lunches R190 to R290, mains R460 to R930) with its own brews and has live music and a dance space. Trolleybuses 17 and 10 run here from pl Revolyutsii to stop Molniya.

Nu i Che Art PubBAR

(Ну и Чё Art Pub GOOGLE MAP ; %351-222 0238; www.monopoly74.ru; ul Truda 105; h10pm-5am Sun-Thu, to 8am Fri & Sat)

Part of the larger 'Monopoly' complex (it includes the restaurant and live venue Lunny Svet at ul Kirova 82), Art Pub is the pub-disco arm attracting a good mix from young to late 30s.

8Information

Post Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %351-266 0125; ul Kirova 161; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)

8Getting There & Away

Sputnik (Спутник GOOGLE MAP ; %351-265 1377; www.sputnik74.ru; pr Lenina 61b; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun) sells rail and air tickets.

Buses depart from the Severny Bus Station to Yekaterinburg (R550, four hours) and Magnitogorsk (R740, five hours, every hour). Touts sell tickets for minibuses to Yekaterinburg (R700, 2½ hours, about every hour) in front of the Severny Bus Station.

Trains go daily to Moscow (from R2500, 35 hours), via Ufa (R900, 9½ hours) and Samara (R1224, 19 hours). Trains 146 and 39 run on odd and even days respectively via Yekaterinburg to St Petersburg (kupe R4590, two days). Heading east, most trains cut through Kazakhstan (separate visa required). There are one to three daily trains to the capital, Astana (kupe R3723, 22 hours).

Several fast trains run daily to Yekaterinburg (R643, five hours).

8Getting Around

The train station is on ul Svobody, 2.5km south of the centre. Bus 18 and trams 3 and 5 connect the train station with pl Revolyutsii in the centre and run north along ul Tsvillinga to Operny Teatr, near the bottom of ul Kirova. Trams 7 and 8 go to pl Revolyutsii from the train station.

Bus 1 runs to the airport from the train station.

Taxi (%351-737 3737) services are generally reliable, although don't expect too much chitter-chatter from the drivers.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

EASTERN BASHKORTOSTAN

Magnitogorsk is a highly industrial city best used as a jumping-off point for exploring eastern Bashkortostan and the southern Ural Mountains, a region where picture-perfect birch groves and large blue lakes fill depressions between gentle grass-covered hills and the mountain ranges.

The region is a favourite locally for rafting, horse riding and skiing. It has recently seen growth in camping and basic accommodation sites, including the option to stay in traditional Bashkiran wooden homes and yurts such as at Etnotur Irandik (Этнотур Ирандык GOOGLE MAP ; %08-927-343 7341; www.halalholiday.ru; Mustaevo village, Baimaksky district; full board R700) about 20km from the town of Sibay.

Turbaza Malinovka ( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-224 6306, 347-924 3064; www.go-ural.com/malinovka; s/d from R800/1600), 10km from Beloretsk (R400 by taxi; call 347-922 4155) under the Malinovaya (Raspberry) mountain, has several log houses sleeping up to about 17 people, plus a two-to-four-person dacha. There's a sauna on-site and it offers a range of tours, including two-horse rides, jeep tours, rafting and hiking.

The resort Abzakovo Bungalo Club ( GOOGLE MAP ; %347-927 3918; Proezd Gorny 8; s/d incl breakfast from R1600/2000; n) has skiing in winter months and is located 20km along the road towards Ufa from Lake Bannoyeis.

Getting There & Away

Magnitogorsk–Ufa Daily train service (kupe from R600, 9½ hours)

Magnitogorsk–Chelyabinsk Buses every 30 minutes (R740, five hours, every hour)

Magnitogorsk–Bannoye Marshrutky (fixed route minibus) from the train station (R60, 40 minutes, frequent)

Magnitogorsk–Beloretsk Hourly buses (R170, 1½ hours, two hourly), via Novoabzakovo station

Ufa–Beloretsk The nightly Ufa–Sibay train calls at Beloretsk at 6.10am local time (R420, six hours)