Western Siberia
Western Siberia
Why Go?
Heading east from the Urals, the influence and reach of Moscow noticeably begins to wane as one enters Western Siberia (Западная Сибирь). Unforgiving winters and a history of Gulag camps give the region a bad rap. The reality is much different. Western Siberia opens its arms to visitors and has plenty to offer the passing traveller. Expect contrasts and extremes, from glaciated mountains to underground cafes, fine art museums to gentle forest rambles. For the international visitor there's no getting away from the fact that Western Siberia is not the easiest place in which to travel. Visitors need a willingness to rough it, and outside the big cities it helps to be able to speak at least rudimentary Russian. But those who make the effort will be rewarded with an insight into the Siberian way of life and – perhaps more importantly – receive a dose of the locals’ legendary hospitality.
When to Go
AMay Grand WWII Victory Day celebrations in Novosibirsk, wildflowers blooming in Altai.
AJul–Sep Bustling street scene in cities, trekking season in Altai.
ADec–Jan Tramp through Tomsk’s winter wonderland and greet the New Year, Russian style.
Best Places to Eat
A Velvet
Best Places to Stay
Western Siberia Highlights
1 Blue Lake Hiking over the glacier that leads to this sublime and oft-frozen lake halfway up the daunting Mt Aktru.
2 Chuysky Trakt Feeling Russia fade away and Central Asia come into play as you drive one of Russia's most spectacular roads.
3 Tobolsk Exploring Siberia's old capital with its glorious snow-white Kremlin and old town.
4 Novosibirsk Taking time out in Siberia's new capital with its bustling bars and creative museums.
5 Tomsk Taking a stroll through the Oxford of Siberia with its picturesque wooden homes and green-fingered gardens.
6 Lake Teletskoe Taking the slow boat down the placid lake waters that are Western Siberia’s answer to Lake Baikal.
History
Siberia’s early Altai people were conceivably progenitors of the Inuit-Arctic cultures and of the Mongol-Turkic groups, which expanded in westbound waves with Attila, Chinggis (Genghis) Khaan and Timur (Tamerlane). The name Siberia comes from Sibir, a Turkic khanate and successor-state to the Golden Horde that ruled the region following Timur’s 1395 invasion.
From 1563, Sibir started raiding what were then Russia’s easternmost flanks. A Volga brigand called Yermak Timofeevich was sent to counter-attack. Though he had only 840 Cossack fighters, the prospect of battle seemed better than the tsar’s death sentence that hung over him. With the unfair advantage of firearms, the tiny Cossack force managed to conquer Tyumen in 1580, turning Yermak into a Russian hero. Two years later Yermak occupied Sibir’s capital Isker, near today’s Tobolsk. Russia’s extraordinary eastward expansion had begun.
Initially, small Cossack units would set up an ostrog (fortress) at key river junctions. Local tribes would then be compelled to supply Muscovite fur traders, and villages slowly developed. Full-blown colonisation only started during the chaotic Time of Troubles (1606–13) as Russian peasants fled east in great numbers, bringing with them the diseases and alcohol that would subsequently decimate the native population. Meanwhile, settler numbers were swollen by exiled prisoners, and Old Believers seeking religious sanctuary. The construction of the first railways across Siberia in the late 19th century transformed the area. Many of today’s cities, such as Novosibirsk in 1893, were founded as the rail lines stretched east.
After the October Revolution of 1917, anti-Bolshevik resistance briefly found a home in Western Siberia, and Omsk was the centre of Admiral Kolchak’s White Russia from 1918 to 1919. As the USSR grew into a superpower, the area saw more than its fair share of Stalin’s notorious Gulag camps. Nonetheless, unforced colonisation continued apace as patriotic workers and volunteer labourers undertook grandiose engineering projects, such as the construction of Novokuznetsk, virtually from scratch.
Since the USSR’s collapse in 1991, certain settlements built with Soviet disregard for economic logic have withered into gloomy virtual ghost towns. In contrast, discoveries of vast oil and gas deposits have led to booms in now-flashy but once remote cities like Tyumen.
TICK WARNING
The encephalitis and Lyme disease threat is often underestimated in Siberia (both Western and Eastern). The ticks (kleshchi) that spread these nasty diseases are alarmingly plentiful from late April to September. The threat is worst in the taiga (mountain pine), especially in Altai, but ticks have even been found in city parks. Don’t panic, but do cover up and be vigilant. Good antitick sprays and creams are available in big cities. It’s best to stock up before you arrive in the region. Tick-borne diseases can also be transmitted through milk, so make sure you boil any bought fresh from local farmers.
Tyumen Тюмень
%3452 / Population 581,000 / Moscow +2hr
Founded in 1586, Tyumen was the first Russian settlement in Siberia. These days the city is the youthful, business-oriented capital of a vast, oil-rich oblast (region) stretching all the way to the Yamal and Gydansky Peninsula on the Arctic Kara Sea. Don't let mention of oil-hungry businesspeople leave you thinking that this is a dull, money-focused city though. The city has a buzzing street life in summer and a couple of worthwhile sights that, taken together, will keep you entertained for a day or so. Tyumen is also the stepping stone to the gorgeous old town of Tobolsk, a few hours' bus or train ride away.
Tyumen
1Sights
1Sights
If the weather is good, the best way to experience the city is by taking a stroll in the popular central City Park (Городской Парк MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina), or by walking along the riverside promenade.
oRiverside PromenadeAREA
(Набережная MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Tyumen's sleek riverside promenade runs northwest from the centre almost all the way to Trinity Monastery. The promenade offers great views of the Voznesensko Georgievskiy Church (Вознесенско-Георгиевский храм MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Beregovaya ul) reflected in the Tura River from the opposite (east) bank. Lovers Bridge (Мост влюблённых MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kommunisticheskaya) leads over to the east bank, where you can explore curiously twisted old wooden houses along tree-lined Beregovaya ul (notably No. 73 and 53).
oTrinity MonasteryMONASTERY
(Троицкий монастырь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kommunisticheskaya 10)
Riverside Trinity Monastery is undoubtedly Tyumen’s most appealing architectural complex. Its kremlin-style crenellated outer wall is pierced by a single gate tower. Behind, gold domes top the striking Troitsky Church in the centre of the courtyard and, next to the black-turreted main gate, the 1727 Peter & Paul Church. In summer the flower beds of the complex burst with colour. The monastery is a pleasant 30-minute walk northwest from the city centre.
Fine Arts MuseumMUSEUM
(Музей изобразительного искусства
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-468 071; http://museum-72.ru; ul Ordzhonikidze 47; permanent collection free, temporary exhibition R150-200; 
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
F
The Fine Arts Museum has several rotating and permanent exhibits ranging from ornate window frames saved from the city’s old wooden houses to tiny, intricately carved bone figures produced by Siberian artists. While it's certainly one of the better galleries in Siberia, it gets expensive if you want to see all of the exhibits.
House-Museum of 19th- & 20th-Century HistoryMUSEUM
(Музей истории дома XIX-XX вв
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-464 963; ul Respubliki 18; R200; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)
This museum contains artefacts from Tyumen’s past and is housed in the city’s finest carved cottage. The best way to experience the museum is by taking one of the museum guides whose stories will really bring the place alive. However, most guides only speak Russian or a smattering of English.
Znamensky CathedralCHURCH
(Знаменский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Semakova 13)
With its voluptuously curved baroque towers, the 1786 Znamensky Cathedral is the most memorable of a dozen ‘old’ churches that have recently come back to life following years of neglect.
Civil War MonumentMONUMENT
(Монумент в честь Гражданской войны MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Respubliki)
To the right of Selskhoz Academy (Сельсхоз Академия), this monument is dedicated to locals who died during battles against the Western-backed White Army immediately after the 1917 Bolshevik revolution.
WWII MonumentMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kommunisticheskaya)
This unusual WWII monument features a Soviet woman piercing the heart of a winged reptilian creature. The embodiment of evil, we assume.
CORPSE OF HONOUR
Vladimir Lenin himself paid a visit to Tyumen – in 1941. Yes, he was already dead. The Soviets evacuated his body (just the body – his brain remained in Moscow) to Tyumen to keep it safe from the invading Germans. The body was kept under a veil of secrecy in the Selskhoz Academy (Сельсхоз Академия MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Respubliki 7), an attractive early-20th-century brick building that still stands today, before being shipped back to Moscow in 1945. Throughout it all, the citizens of Tyumen remained blissfully unaware of the presence of a distinguished guest in their midst. Indeed, until after the war, few Russians had any idea the corpse had ever been transferred out of its mausoleum on Red Square!
4Sleeping
Muesli Mini HotelHOSTEL$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-464 191; ul Respubliki 49; dm from R800; 
n
a
W)
The dazzlingly bright primary colours this central hostel is painted in could liven up even the dullest Siberian day. It has tightly packed four- and eight-bed single-sex dorms, helpful staff who speak some English, and shared bathrooms (single sex) with glass-door showers, which is kind of odd!
Hotel VostokHOTEL$$
(Гостиница Восток
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-686 111; www.vostok-tmn.ru; ul Respubliki 159; r incl breakfast from R3000; n
iW)
This former Soviet monstrosity has seen a massive facelift (inside, at least) and now boasts modern and, dare we say it, quite stylish and comfortable rooms, albeit still with Soviet dimensions (ie small). Some of the staff speak English. It's two easy bus stops from the centre along ul Respubliki.
Business Hotel EurasiaHOTEL$$$
(Бизнес-отель Евразия
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-222 000; www.eurasiahotel.ru; ul Sovetskaya 20; s/d incl breakfast from R5100/5800; naW)
While not overloaded with character, it covers business travellers' needs with well-appointed rooms, a decent restaurant and a fitness centre. But the best part is that everything in the minibar is free of charge and no, that doesn't mean there's just water in the minibar!
Double Tree by HiltonBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-494 040; http://doubletree3.hilton.com; ul Ordzhonikidze 46; d incl breakfast from R4500; naW)
If you're in the market for a state-of-the-art business hotel with ample facilities, you won't go wrong at this Hilton offering, which has calming colour schemes, wonderfully comfortable beds, blackout curtains (all too rare in Russia) and service that can't be faulted. Great value.
5Eating
SchasteGEORGIAN$$
(Счастье
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-666 111; http://happyrest.ru; ul Respubliki 65, Kalinka Trade Centre; mains R300-700; h11.45am-1am; W)
Funky, glass-fish-bowl-shaped restaurant and bar with leafy plants and bicycles mounted on the walls. There's a menu of Russian, international and some Georgian specialities such as fried suluguni (Georgian cheese), kharcho (beef stew) and khinkali (dumplings). If you're travelling with children, they are sure to enjoy the kids play area inside a train carriage.
In Da USAAMERICAN$$
(Ин Да Юса
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-070755; http://indausa.ru; ul Chelyuskintsev 10; mains R300-450; hnoon-2am Sun-Thu, noon-6am Fri & Sat; W)
In Da USA is, naturally, festooned with Americana and serves Tyumen's best burgers along with Tex-Mex and a host of bar appetisers. It becomes a club famous for table-top dancing at weekends as well as live music and disco-coloured cocktails with sexy names.
Malina BarCAFE$$
(Малина Бар
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Pervomayskaya 18; meals R200-600; h24hr; W)
The city slicker Malina Bar has a huge menu of Russian and European food, overly fluffy cakes, filling breakfasts, real coffee, fast wi-fi and cosy seating in grand leather couches. Upstairs is sister Italian restaurant–steak house Berlusconi (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Pervomayskaya 18; mains R300-1200; h11am-3am Mon-Thu, 11am-6am Fri-Sat).
oChum Restaurant-MuseumRUSSIAN$$$
(Ресторан-музей Чум
GOOGLE MAP
; %3452-621 660; http://maxim-rest.ru; str Maligina 59/12; mains R600-900; h11am-2am)
Inside a faux Siberian hunters cabin lined with furs and skis, this unusual restaurant specalises in the cuisine of northern Siberia. Dishes include salted fish, elk, reindeer tongues and wild boar. However, whereas the average Siberian hunter probably just munches on a great hunk of meat, here the dishes are given a totally modern touch and presented with arty flamboyance.
8Information
City maps and bus-route plans are sold at newspaper kiosks in the train station and throughout the city.
Main Post Office (Почтамт
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Respubliki 56; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)
8Getting There & Away
Air
Tyumen’s Roshchino Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ) is 13km west of the centre. S7 and Aeroflot are among airlines with daily flights to Moscow (three hours), while regional carrier Yamal Airlines (http://yamal.aero) serves Novosibirsk (two hours, daily) and arctic hubs Novy Urengoy (daily) and Salekhard (daily) among many other destinations in Tyumen Oblast and beyond. Note that foreigners usually need a special permit to visit most Arctic Circle destinations. A second regional carrier, UTAir (www.utair.ru), serves Khanty-Mansiysk among other remote destinations in Tyumen Oblast.
Bus
From the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Permyakova), 3km east of the centre, buses to Tobolsk (R580, four hours, seven daily) travel via Rasputin's home town of Pokrovskoe (R250, 1½ hours).
Train
Several day and overnight trains go to Omsk (platskart/kupe R1708/2538, 8½ hours, 10.19pm) and points east along the Trans-Siberian main line, and dozens of westbound trains serve Yekaterinburg and beyond.
There are many daily trains to Tobolsk (from R600, 3½ hours). If you're looking to explore the Arctic, trains continue beyond Tobolsk all the way to Novy Urgenoy (at least twice daily). Other useful trains serve Barnaul (R3141/4056, 29 hours, daily at 4.41am) and Tomsk (R3423/4942, 23 hours, even-numbered days at 6.52am).
8Getting Around
To get to Roshchino Airport, 13km west of the centre, catch marshrutka 35 or bus 141 anywhere along ul Respubliki (30 minutes). Taxis from the city centre cost R300 if ordered by phone through your hotel.
From the train station, bus 27 serves Hotel Vostok and passes near the bus station – hop off at the Krosno stop, and cross ul Respubliki. Several other bus ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) lines also link the train station with the city centre. Buses ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) also run from the eastern end of ul Lunacharskogo up and down ul Respubliki to the city centre. Taxis around town cost R200.
Tobolsk Тобольск
%3456 / Population 100,000 / Time Moscow +2hr
Siberia’s former capital Tobolsk is one of the region’s most historic cities and one of the nation’s most beautiful, sporting a magnificent snow-white kremlin and a charmingly decrepit old town. It is off the Trans-Siberian main line but is well worth the short diversion from Tyumen.
The centre of the Russian colonisation of Siberia, Tobolsk was founded in 1587. Its strategic importance started to wane in the 1760s, when the new Great Siberian Trakt (post road) took a more southerly route. However, until the early 20th century it remained significant as a centre for both learning and exile. Involuntary guests included Fyodor Dostoevsky en route to exile in Omsk and deposed Tsar Nicholas II and his family, who spent several months here in 1917 before being taken to Yekaterinburg and executed.
Buses from the inconvenient train station give visitors a dismal first impression. Tobolsk’s glories begin 3km further south around the splendid kremlin. Immediately beyond and below the kremlin, the old town sinks into the Irtysh’s boggy floodplain.
Tobolsk
1Sights
4Sleeping
Transport
1Sights
oKremlinHISTORIC BUILDING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; hgrounds 8am-8pm)
The centrepiece of the tower-studded, white-walled, 18th-century kremlin is the glorious 1686 St Sofia Cathedral (Софийский собор
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Krasnaya pl 2). Less eye-catching from the outside, but with splendid arched ceiling murals, is the Intercession Cathedral (Покровский собор
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; kremlin). Between the two is a 1799 bell tower (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; kremlin), built for the Uglich bell, which famously signalled a revolt against Tsar Boris Godunov. The Kremlin prison is now the Castle Prison Museum (Тюремный замок
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3456-222 776; www.tiamz.ru; Krasnaya pl 5; R300; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), where you can get a sense of the grim life behind bars in both tsarist and Soviet times.
The elegant Arkhiereysky Mansion (Архиерейский Дом MAP GOOGLE MAP ; kremlin) was closed for renovations when we visited and will eventually be reopened as an Orthodox history museum.
Wooden stairs lead beneath the kremlin’s Pryamskoy Vzvoz (Прямской Взвоз MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (gatehouse) to the wonderfully dilapidated old town full of weather-beaten churches and angled wooden homes sinking between muddy lanes.
oDeputy’s Palace MuseumMUSEUM
(Дворец наместника
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.tiamz.ru; Krasnaya pl 1; admission R600; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Tobolsk's best museum, and indeed one of the best museums in Siberia, occupies a beautiful 18th-century former administration on the southwestern edge of the Kremlin. The Romanovs called in here during their brief stint in Tobolsk in 1917, and a section of this remarkably modern museum is devoted to their time here. Tactile multimedia exhibits profile the characters who shaped Siberia before the Bolshevik revolution, as well as hometown heroes such as Dmitry Mendeleyev, who created the first periodic table.
oMinsalim Folk ArtGALLERY
(Мастерская Минсалим
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3456-246 993; www.minsalim.ru; ul Oktyabrskaya 2; h9am-6pm)F
Minsalim is a master bone-carver who turns mammoth tusks and antler fragments into detailed figurines related to myths and legends of the local brand of shamanism. With a long mustache and flowing mane, eccentric Minsalim is something of a shaman himself and will gladly lead you on a tour of his workshop behind the gallery (phone in advance). His son and some members of staff speak English.
Gubernsky MuseumMUSEUM
(Губернский музей
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.tiamz.ru; ul Oktyabrskaya 1; R200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Built in 1887 for the 300th anniversary of the founding of Tobolsk, the Gubernsky Museum has displays on the history of Tobolsk, a hugely impressive and near-complete mammoth skeleton and a display of bone carvings.
Archangel Mikhail ChurchCHURCH
(Церковь Архангела Михаила MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 24)
The attractive Archangel Mikhail Church has a colourfully restored interior. The character of Tatiana Larina in Pushkin’s epic Eugene Onegin is said to have been modelled on Natalya Fonvizina, a Decembrist wife who prayed here.
Zachary & Elisabeth ChurchCHURCH
(Церковь Захария и Елизаветы MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Bazarnaya pl 8)
The 1759 Zachary & Elisabeth Church, with its soaring black-tipped spires, is extremely photogenic.
Kornilov MansionMUSEUM
(Дом Корнилова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Mira 9)
The grand Kornilov Mansion, named after a 19th-century statesman and philanthropist, is closed while being converted into a museum dedicated to the Romanovs, but is still worth a look for its lavish exterior.
4Sleeping
Resting RoomsHOSTEL$
(komnaty otdykha;
GOOGLE MAP
; %3456-62 522; train station; dm 12/24hr from R600/800, s/d from R1400/2000; W)
Clean and friendly. The location is utterly impractical for visiting the city, but ideal if you’re arriving late or waiting for an early-morning connection.
oHotel YamskayaHOTEL$$
(Гостиница Ямская
GOOGLE MAP
; %3456-226 177; yamskaya-tobolsk@mail.ru; ul Bolshaya Sibirskaya 40; r incl breakfast R3300; W)
With cosy rooms, friendly service, a perfect location near the kremlin and a warm and inviting overall atmosphere, this 12-room hotel borders on boutique. The prices are extremely reasonable for what you get.
oHotel SibirHOTEL$$
(Гостиница Сибирь
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3456-220 901; www.hotel-siberia.com; pl Remezova 1; s/d incl breakfast from R2100/3900; W)
Sibir’s rooms are comfortable, spacious and festooned with fading old photos, dark-wood furnishings and old-fashioned wallpaper, which gives it an enjoyably historical vibe. Another huge plus is that it's the closest to the kremlin of all Tobolsk's hotels. The breakfast is tasty and filling and the in-house restaurant is reliably good. A good-value spot.
5Eating
While Tobolsk has seen a modest tourist boom in recent years, there is still no restaurant scene to speak of.
Kofeynya u ErshovaCAFE$
(Кофейня у Ершова
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3456-246 808; ul Remezova 7; mains R150-450; h10am-11pm)
An easy stop near the kremlin for relatively quick and cheap Russian eats – think lunch standards such as bishteks (Russian-style hamburger), solyanka (pickled vegetables and potato soup) and stuffed bliny (pancakes). Portions tend to be on the small side so if you're hungry it might be worth ordering two dishes.
LadeynyRUSSIAN$$
(Ладейный
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3456-222 111; ul Revolutsionnaya 2; mains R250-500; h11am-2am; W)
This place, an extra-large Siberian izba (wood house) that simply feels warm and welcoming, is a revolution as far as Tobolsk is concerned. Specialities include Siberian fish and homemade pelmeni (ravioli) and varenyky (dumplings). Nights sometimes bring live music. The English menu is extremely rare for these parts.
oRomanov RestaurantRUSSIAN$$$
(Ресторан Романов
GOOGLE MAP
; %3456-399 139; ul Microrayon 1, Hotel Slavyanskaya; mains R1000-1500; hnoon-10pm)
Housed in the Hotel Slavyanskaya, the very refined Romanov restaurant is in a class above everything else in Tobolsk. Dress sharp and tuck into a menu that features succulent 19th-century Russian dishes. Also has a family portrait of Russia’s last tsar and his family on the ceiling and can count ex-presidents among its clientele.
8Information
Post Office (Почта
GOOGLE MAP
; Komsomolsky pr 42; h8am-6pm)
8Getting There & Away
There are frequent trains to Tyumen (from R600, four hours).
Train 125 trundles to Novosibirsk on odd-numbered days at 9.21am (from R4696, 24 hours) via Omsk, while the 115 is a late-night option to Omsk on odd-numbered days (platskart/kupe R2598/3197, 13¼ hours, 1.26am).
Buses are another option to Tyumen (R580, four hours) via Pokrovskoe (R300, 2½ hours), Rasputin’s home village. Eight buses per day to various destinations pass through nearby Abalak, site of an interesting monastery.
In the warm months ferries leave from the river station ( GOOGLE MAP ) and cruise the Irtysh north to Salekhard (1st-/2nd-/3rd-class R3000/1200/900, five days, about six monthly) via Khanty-Mansiysk (two days), and south to Omsk (R2200/1000/850, three days, about three monthly).
8Getting Around
Bus 4 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) and marshrutka (fixed-route minibus) 20 link the train station, new town and kremlin. Taxis to/from the station cost around R250.
There are small ferry boats crisscrossing back and forth over the River Irtysh throughout daylight hours and into the early evening. They leave from just north ( GOOGLE MAP ) of the river station and further south ( GOOGLE MAP ).
Omsk Омск
%3812 / Population 1.15 million / Time Moscow +3hr
With its modest sights hidden behind busy roads and endless kilometres of drab concrete, this big industrial city is not worth a special detour. However, you may find it a convenient stopover to break up long journeys.
If you're looking to kill some time, the Fine Arts Museum (
GOOGLE MAP
; %3812-200 047; www.vrubel.ru; ul Lenina 3; R150; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun) displays a lot of fussy decorative arts. The rectilinear 1862 building was built as the Siberian governor’s mansion and hosted passing tsars. In 1918–19, however, the building was home to Admiral Kolchak’s counter-revolutionary government and was the heart of White Russia before the Reds eventually claimed the city.
Cross the bridge at ul Lenina, continue north and you'll pass several parks and notable buildings, including the ornate Drama Theatre (Омский театр драмы GOOGLE MAP ; www.omskdrama.ru; ul Lenina 8a) built in the early 20th century, and the massive turquoise-and-gold domed Assumption Cathedra (Успенский собор GOOGLE MAP ; Sobornaya pl)l rebuilt after the collapse of the USSR.
4Sleeping & Eating
Resting RoomsHOSTEL$
(komnaty otdykha;
GOOGLE MAP
; %3812-442 347; train station; 12/24hr from R900/1600)
Spacious and with en suites, these are some of the best train station rooms we've seen in Siberia.
Hotel MayakBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
(Гостиница Маяк
GOOGLE MAP
; %3812-330 303; www.hotel-mayak.ru; ul Lermontova 2; s/tw incl breakfast R3400/4800; naW)
In the eye-catching rounded end of the vaguely ship-shaped art-deco river station, the Mayak has small, modish rooms with artistic lines and good bathrooms. Popular with Western business travellers. Friendly staff and an impressive breakfast buffet.
oLapshichnaya Noodle ShopVIETNAMESE$$
(Little Flower in Big Window;
GOOGLE MAP
; %3812-208 028; ul Lenina 20; h11am-11pm)
The fresh, healthy and slightly spiced soups and curries of Southeast Asia are a rare treat in Siberia, so it's worth making a special effort to eat at this light, bright and modern noodle bar. We particularly enjoyed the beef in a spicy soya sauce.
TamadaGEORGIAN$$
(Тамада
GOOGLE MAP
; %3812-200 127; ul Gagarina 3; meals R450-800; h10am-midnight; 
v)
It won't just be the food you remember at this Georgian restaurant. The setting, in a bizarre cave-like basement filled with fake ponds and palm trees, will live long in the memory too. The khachapuri (bread baked with cheese filling) and lobiyo (spicy red beans stewed in vegetables) are recommended. It’s just off ul Lenina.
8Information
K2 AdventuresTOUR
Igor Fedyaev is the guru of adventure travel in Western Siberia. English-speaking, affable and responsive, he specialises in mountaineering expeditions in Altai and elsewhere, but can arrange just about any tour you want around Omsk or elsewhere in the region.
Post Office (Почтамт
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Gertsena 1; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)
8Getting There & Away
Omsk is on the Trans-Siberian main line, which means numerous connections both east toward Novosibirsk (platskart/kupe from R1622/2700, about 7½ hours) and west toward Yekaterinburg. Destinations off the main line served from Omsk include Abakan (R3183/5412, 30 hours, daily), Barnaul (R2924/3549, 16 hours, one or two daily), Tomsk (R3167/4391, 14 hours, even-numbered days) and Tobolsk (R3547/4382, 12 hours, odd-numbered days at 8.30pm, even-numbered days at 10.16am).
An elektrichka (suburban train) serves Novosibirsk Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday at 2.55pm (1st-/2nd-/3rd-class R1623/1287/711, 6¾ hours).
8Getting Around
The main streets, Ul Lenina and pr Marksa, run parallel to each other through the centre of town and cross the Om River just north of central pl Lenina. From the train station, trolleybus 4 and bus 69 are among many options that go to the centre along pr Marksa.
Novosibirsk Новосибирск
%383 / Population 1.5 million / Time Moscow +4hr
Novosibirsk might be Russia's third-largest city, but you wouldn't know it. The city centre is compact and – thanks to lots of parks and tree-lined avenues – it has a quiet, green-fingered air to it, which makes it an ideal city for strolling about. And there's a lot here worth strolling for, including a slew of quirky museums and monuments, some impressive galleries, a good theatre and entertainment scene and some memorable places to eat. All this means it's hard not to like Novosibirsk and, sitting as it does on the main rail line, it makes a worthwhile Trans-Siberian pit stop. You can also jump off from here to architecturally splendid Tomsk, some 4½ hours away by bus.
Novosibirsk grew up in the 1890s around the Ob River bridge built for the Trans-Siberian Railway, and the city is festooned with original examples of the wood-lace architecture that prevailed at the time before the Soviets took over and started chucking concrete everywhere. Named Novo-Nikolaevsk until 1925 after the last tsar, it grew rapidly into Siberia’s biggest metropolis, a key industrial and transport centre exploiting coalfields to the east and mineral deposits in the Urals.
Despite its daunting scale, Novosibirsk has a manageable centre focused on pl Lenina. The city’s main axis, Krasny pr, runs through this square linking most points of interest.
Novosibirsk
1Sights
4Sleeping
5Eating
Transport
1Sights
oN.K. Rerikh MuseumMUSEUM
(Музей Н.К. Рериха
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; www.sibro.ru; ul Kommunisticheskaya 38; R200, free every 2nd Sat; h11am-7pm Fri-Mon & Wed, 1-8pm Thu)
This museum is dedicated to the works and life of the painter Nikolai Rerikh (Nicholas Roerick), beloved in these parts because of his life-long passion for Altai. While the many paintings on display are reproductions, they provide a thorough synopsis of his life's work, and you can buy affordable prints in the excellent gift shop.
Rerikh was also a writer, a philosopher, a scientist, an archaeologist, a statesman – and a traveller. An epic five-year expedition around Central Asia (including Altai) and the Himalayas in the 1920s provided fodder for many of his paintings and philosophies. That journey is explored in depth here, making the museum an inspiring spot for modern-day vagabonds. Incredibly, the expedition traversed 35 mountain passes of more than 14,000ft! There is a 15-minute movie in English on the artist's life, and rooms dedicated to the works of his wife and two sons – talented artists, writers and/or thinkers in their own right.
If you can, try to time your visit to the museum to coincide with one of the beautiful classical music concerts (free with entry) on 3rd floor at 3pm every Thursday and on the second Saturday of each month.
oNovosibirsk State History MuseumMUSEUM
(Краеведческий музей
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; Krasny pr 23; R200; h10am-6pm Wed-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat-Sun)
In an elegant mansion, the State History Museum has recently re-opened after renovations and is now by far the best museum in Novosibirsk. The well-thought-out collection traces the history of Siberia and Novosibirsk from birth up to today. The highlights are the displays on nomadic life and shamanism (in the basement). The regular temporary exhibitions are a more hit-and-miss affair and can include anything from collections of posh frocks to delicate-faced dolls and puppets.
oAlexander Nevsky CathedralCHURCH
(Собор Александра Невского MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Krasny pr 1a)
The 1898 Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is a red-brick Byzantine-style building with gilded domes and colourful murals. The cathedral was originally built as a monument in honour of Tsar Alexander III who had initiated the construction of Novosibirsk. It was shut by the Soviet authorities in 1937 and only re-opened in 1989.
Cathedral of the AscensionCHURCH
(Вознесенский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sovetskaya 91)
The gold-domed 1914 Cathedral of the Ascension has a wonderful, colourful interior with a soaring central space that’s unexpected given its fairly squat exterior appearance.
USSR MuseumMUSEUM
(Музей СССР
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; %383-223 0266; ul Gorkogo 16; R200; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sat)
While the collection of '70s Soviet bric-a-bric in this museum isn't particularly original, you get free rein over the place, which means photo-ops galore. Dress yourself up (don't worry, it's allowed!) as a Soviet apparatchik, country dyevushka (girl) or Great Patriotic War soldier and snap away. The museum is housed within a ramshackle wooden building.
State Art MuseumMUSEUM
(Художественный музей
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; Krasny pr 5; R200; hnoon-8pm Tue-Fri, 1-9pm Sat & Sun)
The highlight is the museum's collection of 65 original paintings by Nikolai Rerikh on the 2nd floor, mostly mountainscapes from the celebrated drifter's time in the Himalayas. The 2nd floor also has a room of 17th-century European (mostly Dutch) masters, a collection of icons and several rooms dedicated to 18th-to-19th-century Russian art. The 3rd floor has some wonderful pieces from the Soviet era.
Chapel of St NicholasCHURCH
(Часовня Святителя Николая MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Krasny pr)
The pretty little Chapel of St Nicholas was said to mark the geographical centre of Russia when it was built in 1915. Demolished in the 1930s, it was rebuilt in 1993 for Novosibirsk’s centenary. Today it is an oasis of calm in the bustling city centre.
Monument to First Traffic LightMONUMENT
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr ul Serebrennikovskaya & ul Sibrevkoma)
This humorous monument portraying a stumpy little man staring up at a bendy traffic light is based at the rumoured site of the city’s first ever traffic light. It's worth a quick diversion if you're in the southern part of town.
2Activities & Tours
Altair-TurTOURS
(Альтаир-Тур
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; %383-212 5115; www.altairtour.ru; ul Sovetskaya 65, Novosibirsk; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)
Very well-regarded, fast-responding and English-speaking tour company specialising in the Altai region (but also most parts of Russia). It can organise anything from a car and driver through to full-blown mountaineering expeditions up the highest peaks in Altai. Happy to provide the required paperwork for visas.
Sibir AltaiTOUR
(
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; %383-299 0403; http://sibalt.ru; ul Chelyuskintsev 36, Novosibirsk; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat)
Packages Altai trips for local tourists, sold through numerous regional travel agencies. Minimal English.
Tour AcademyTOURS
(
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; %383-204 8664; http://touracademy.ru; Bolshevistskaya 101)
Aimed primarily at a domestic market, this experienced agency organises hiking, rafting and even children's camps in the Altai region as well as Sheregesh.
4Sleeping
The best hotels and hostels book out fast, especially from May to October, so booking ahead is recommended.
oFunKey HostelHOSTEL$
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; %383-263 6503; www.funhostel.ru; ul Frunze 5/2; dm R490-700, d R1700; naW)
'Funkey' indeed. It backs up its quirky name with one of Siberia's most creative hostel spaces. Bright colours and eye-catching photos enliven walls, extra-tall bunk beds penetrate soaring ceilings and guests kick back in a delightfully wide-open kitchen and common area. Staff are helpful, traveller savvy and speak good English. Easily the best hostel in town.
Provence HostelHOSTEL$
(Хостел Прованс
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; ul Chaplygina 45; dm R650-700, d R2200; iW)
Occupying the 2nd floor of an attractive century-old brick building, the Provence is a large hostel and one that comes across as a little more 'grown-up' than the town's other hostels. Gone are the chalk graffiti walls so common at the competition and in are subtle whites and a hint of the Mediterranean. Capable, English-speaking staff.
The kicker is the lack of much in the way of a communal lounge area.
Azimut Hotel SiberiaHOTEL$$
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; %383-217 6970; www.azimuthotels.com; ul Lenina 21; s/d incl breakfast from R2750/2904; naW)
Big changes have been afoot at this large former Soviet-era hotel. It's been given a good revamp and the rooms (though remaining Soviet size challenged) are clean, plain, quiet and functional. The staff are very efficient and the included breakfast is a veritable feast. A very good deal.
Marins Park Hotel NovosibirskHOTEL$$
(Конгресс-Гостиница Новосибирск
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; %383-364 0101; www.hotel-novosibirsk.ru; Vokzalnaya magistral 1; r incl breakfast from R2500; naiW)
Boasting awesome views of the city centre from its upper floors, this formerly glum Soviet-era tower has been transformed into a plush modern hotel with fantastic service and prime rooms. The live python in a huge cage beside the reception desk is a novel touch. Great weekend and online deals are often available.
oDoubleTree by HiltonHOTEL$$$
(
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; %383-223 0100; www.novosibirsk.doubletreebyhilton.com; ul Kamenskaya 7/1; s/d incl breakfast weekday from R10,300/11,400, weekend from R5300/6400; naiW
s)
Has all the amenities you would expect, highlighted by luscious beds, mood lighting, ginormous plasma TVs, rain showers and (separate) extra-long bathtubs, although we'd like to see a bit more space in the standard rooms. Online booking can sometimes mean big discounts. The service is unusually good.
Novosibirsk Marriott HotelBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
(
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; %383-230 0300; www.marriott.com; ul Ordzhonikidze 31; incl breakfast r Mon-Fri from R9751, Sat & Sun R7100; naWs)
Architecturally speaking, the city's new Marriott Hotel, straight opposite the opera theatre and in a pleasingly renovated old building with huge windows, blends nicely into the townscape. The decor is fairly cookie-cutter-luxury business class, though it's undeniably comfortable and well run.
5Eating
Vilka-LozhkaCAFE$
(
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; ul Frunze 2; meals R150-250; h9am-10pm; W)
This upmarket stolovaya (cafeteria) is popular for a reason – hip and cool with groovy tunes and piping-hot Russian staples like bliny (pancakes) and borsch at dirt-cheap prices. It even has beer on tap. Good place for a simple and fun meal.
ShashlikoffRUSSIAN$
(
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; www.shashlikoff.com; Krasny pr 17; mains R250-300; h9am-1am; W)
This popular chain is fantastic value. Its signature shashlyk (kebabs) come in meat and fish varieties, accompanied by a full complement of Russian soups and salads, washed down with home-brewed beer (from R85). There's another branch opposite the train station (
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; www.shashlikoff.com; Vokzalnaya magistral 1; mains R250-300; h9am-1am; W).
oPark CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
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; %383-310 9070; www.parkcafensk.com; Kransy Prospekt 25/1; mains R400-800; h7.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 9am-1am Sat & Sun)
Bulbous lights, arty fairy colours, shelves of books and beautifully created and presented dishes mean that this very central restaurant has a loyal local fan club. After you've finished tucking into one of their yummy soups, salads, fish cakes or some delicately prepared macarons, take a walk through the pretty neighbouring park.
Goodman Steak HouseSTEAK$$
(
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; %383-289 2525; ul Sovetskaya 5; mains R540-720; hnoon-midnight)
There's a busy, British-style pub atmosphere at the Goodman Steak House. Although plenty of people stop by after work for just a beer, it's renowned for having some of the best steaks in the city, as well as other pub favourites like chicken curry and homemade sausages.
BaranzharCENTRAL ASIAN$$
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; %383-209 0902; www.baranjar.ru; ul Sovetskaya 18; mains R300-550; hnoon-midnight; W)
With a warm, relaxed atmosphere and a creatively decorated dining room, it's no wonder that this central restaurant, which serves up an exotic flavour of Central Asia (although there's a fair few Russian staples as well), is currently one of Novosibirsk's favourites. The emphasis here is on kebabs, but the stuffed eggplant starter is delicious.
TiflisGEORGIAN$$
(Тифлис
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; %383-222 8181; www.tiflisnsk.ru; ul Sovetskaya 65; mains R400-600; h11am-11pm; v)
This atmospheric tavern-cavern down in a basement offers the most authentic Georgian cuisine in town. The filling and delicious khachapuri po-adzharski (Georgian cheese bread with a raw egg swimming in the middle) is well worth a try. There's an English menu and the staff speak good English and will happily give menu suggestions.
Trattoria la TrentaITALIAN$$
(
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; %383-223 9291; http://latrenta.ru; ul Uritsekogo 9; pizzas around R440, mains R350-500; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, noon-midnight Fri & Sat; a)
You could almost imagine this cute little trattoria has been magically transported straight from a honey-coloured Tuscany village to big old Novosibirsk. The walls are lined in paintings and dried pasta and there's a shaded terrace for summer evenings. The menu lists all the Italian classics, but also includes a few local touches such as black buckwheat pizza bases.
There's a reasonable wine list and the staff are warm and smiley.
oPuppen HausRUSSIAN$$$
(
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; %383-251 0303; www.puppenhaus-resto.ru; ul Chaplygin 65/1; full meal around R2000; hnoon-midnight)
The Puppen Haus (Puppet House), which specialises in refined traditional Siberian dishes, is both eccentric and divine. It consists of numerous little dining rooms and alcoves crammed with stony-eyed wooden puppets. The food is as memorable as the setting and if you've never tried elk steaks, Kamchatka lobster or – get this – boiled bear (!) then now is the chance.
Advance bookings are wise in the evening.
oLa MaisonEUROPEAN$$$
(
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; %383-209 0010; ul Sovetskaya 25; mains R600-1500; h10am-midnight)
In a beautiful former theatre dating to 1908, this is Novosibirsk's most sumptuous restaurant. The French- and Russian-leaning menu features quail, rabbit, rack of lamb and octopus along with upmarket versions of solyanka (soup from pickled vegetables and potato) and other Russian country faves. Also has an extensive wine list and rich desserts such as mille-feuille.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oFriends Cocktail BarBAR
(
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; Krasny pr 22; h6pm-6am)
With bearded bartenders whipping up some of Siberia's best (and strongest) cocktails and a convivial crowd, this is unquestionably Novosibirsk's best spot to warm up for a night out. Indeed you may elect to not go anywhere else. Reliably action-packed on weekdays as well as weekends, and you can eat at equally trendy People's Bar & Grill (
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; Krasny pr 22; mains R350-800; h24hr) in the same building.
TrubaBAR
(Труба
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; www.vk.com/truba_nsk; ul Frunze 2; h7pm till late; W)
It bills itself as a jazz bar but the line-up runs the gamut from jazz and blues to trash rock and grunge. Whatever is playing, this underground institution is well worth checking out.
Rock CityCLUB
(Рок Сити
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; %383-227 0108; www.rockcity.ru; Krasny pr 37; cover R150-350)
Everything from Latin dancing to DJs to heavy-rock concerts. Thursday is ladies' night and Tuesdays feature two-for-one cocktails.
3Entertainment
oBrodyachaya SobakaLIVE MUSIC
(Бродячая Сoбака
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; %383-218 8070; www.sobaka.su; Kamenskaya ul 32; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, 5pm-3am Fri & Sat; W)
Weekends usually see live music performing at this grungy cabaret bar, while weekdays bring all manner of performing arts and other events ranging from clowns to quiz nights. Check the website for the schedule.
To find it look for the discreet rust-red carved metal sign and then head down the stairs to the basement.
oOpera & Ballet TheatreTHEATRE
(Tеатр оперы и балета
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; %383-222 6040; http://novat.nsk.ru; Krasny pr 36; tickets R500-5000; hOct-Jun, most shows at 6.30pm)
For classical culture don’t miss an evening at this gigantic silver-domed theatre. Built in 1945, it's the largest theatre in Russia – bigger even than Moscow’s Bolshoi. The grand interior alone makes performances here one of the city’s highlights. Ticket prices depend on seats and performances.
PhilharmoniaCLASSICAL MUSIC
(Филармония
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; %383-223 4141; www.philharmonia-nsk.ru; Krasny pr 32; tickets R200-1500; hmost shows 7pm)
Classical music concerts as well as a little jazz and other musical strains.
Spartak StadiumSPECTATOR SPORT
(Стадион Спартак MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://fc-sibir.ru; ul Frunze 15; tickets R100-300)
This 12,500-capacity venue is the home of local football team Sibir. Games are usually played on Saturday or Sunday.
8Information
Main Post OfficePOST
(Главпочтамт
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; ul Sovetskaya 33; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)
8Getting There & Away
Novosibirsk is well connected by plane, train and road to the rest of Russia and it makes a logical stop on the Trans-Siberian. The well-located Central Travel Bureau (Центральное Бюро путешествий
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; Krasny pr 25; h9am-8pm) is one of dozens of places to buy rail and air tickets, and also sells bus tickets (commission R100 to R200). Another such place is Aviakassa (Авиакасса
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; ul Gogolya 3; h8.30am-8pm).
Air
Novosibirsk’s Tolmachyovo Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tolmachevo.ru), 30km west of the city, is well connected to Moscow (four hours) and various other domestic destinations. International destinations served by direct flights from Novosibirsk include Beijing, several cities in Central Asia, plus seasonal flights to destinations in Thailand, Turkey and Greece.
Bus
From the bus station (Автовокзал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nsk-avtovokzal.ru; Krasny pr 4) buses depart every hour or so for Barnaul (R500, four hours) and Tomsk (R740, 4½ hours). For roughly double the price, shared taxis shave at least an hour or more off those times but can take a while to fill up. Taxi drivers stand outside the station trying to entice customers.
Train
The city’s huge main train station, Novosibirsk Glavny ( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Shamshurina 43), sits right on the Trans-Siberian main line and there are plentiful trains west to Moscow (48 to 55 hours) via Omsk, Tyumen and Yekaterinburg, and east to Irkutsk and beyond via Krasnoyarsk. For Tobolsk you might be better off transferring in Tyumen. For Tomsk the bus is a better option.
8Getting Around
From the bus station, bus 111z (111з) goes to Tolmachyovo airport every 30 minutes from 4am to 10.30pm, stopping at the bus stop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) by the train station on the way. Allow an hour to get there (more during Novosibirsk's infamous rush hour). A taxi to the airport costs R800 (30 minutes, or one hour during rush hour). Going the other way drivers will often ask for R1200.
The metro has a major north–south line running beneath Krasny pr and across the river to ul Studencheskaya and pl Karla Marksa. For the main train station you’ll need metro stop Ploshchad Garina-Mikhaylovskogo, which is on a second three-stop line that intersects with the major line at Sibirskaya/Krasny Prospekt.
Generally, buses and marshrutky (
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; ul Shamshurina; W) (minibuses) are handier than the metro within the centre. Buses 8, 21 and 37 link the train station with the river station via pl Lenina, Krasny pr and the bus station.
Tomsk Томск
%3822 / Population 524,000 / Time Moscow +4hr
Magnificent in snow, but fun to be in at any time of the year, the university city of Tomsk boasts numerous examples of fine wooden buildings and has an animated cafe and art scene. The city has enjoyed the reputation as the ‘cultural capital of Siberia’ since the 1960s, when artists, writers and theatre and film directors were invited to take up residence here.
One of Siberia’s oldest cities, Tomsk was founded in 1604 and was a major trade outpost before the founding of Novosibirsk (then Novo-Nikolaevsk) and the subsequent relocation of the Trans-Siberian Railway line. With a huge and grand university, this is above all a city of learning, and today around one in every five residents is a student – hence the youthful, intellectual atmosphere.
Tomsk
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
5Eating
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights
oMemorial MuseumMUSEUM
(Мемориальный музей 'Следственная тюрьма НКВД'
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; pr Lenina 44; R50, camera R100, tours in Russian/English R200/400; h10am-6pm)
The gloomy basement of this former NKVD (proto-KGB) building is now a museum dedicated to the unspeakable horrors that took place here. Look out for the Gulag map, the system of Soviet labour camps depicted as an uncountable mass of red dots across the territory of the former USSR.
Prisoners who passed through here included Gulag chronicler Eufrosinia Kersnovskaya and the family of the purged Kazakh writer Akhmet Baytursinuli. Outside the museum are two monuments to victims of Stalinist repression – the larger to local victims, the second to Poles slaughtered by Uncle Joe and his cronies.
Tours are recommended, but the English-language ones should be booked in advance. If you go it alone and don't read Russian, you'll miss out on a lot; but, as they say, 'A picture is worth a thousand words', and the pictures on display here are just screaming out.
oUniversity & Siberian Botanical GardensHISTORIC BUILDING
(Томский Государственный Университет
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; %3822-529 816; greenhouses R250; hgreenhouses 10am-noon & 1-3pm Tue, Thu & Sat)
The classically colonnaded main buildings of the university lie in resplendently leafy grounds, giving Tomsk the sobriquet ‘Oxford of Siberia’. Most of the buildings themselves are closed to the public, but the grounds are open to all. However, the Siberian Botanical Gardens, at the southern edge of the grounds, are the real highlight of a visit. The exterior gardens contain samples of many Siberian plant species while the enormous greenhouses (guided tour only) get all tropical and steamy.
Ploshchad LeninaHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Central pl Lenina isn’t really a square so much as a jumbled collection of beautifully restored historic buildings interspersed with banal Soviet concrete lumps. The frustrated Lenin statue (
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; pl Lenina), now relegated to a traffic circle, points at the ugly concrete of the Drama Theatre, apparently demanding ‘build more like that one’. Fortunately, nobody’s listening. Topped with a golden angel, in a second circle beside Lenin, is the Iverskaya Chapel (Иверская часовня
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; pr Lenina; h10am-6pm), whose celebrated icon is dubbed ‘Tomsk’s Spiritual Gateway’.
The drama theatre is flanked by the splendid 1784 Epiphany Cathedral (Богоявленский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Lenina 7), the former trading arches (Гостиный Двор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina), and the elegant 1802 Hotel Magistrat.
Tomsk Regional MuseumMUSEUM
(Краеведческий музей
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; %3822-512 935; www.tomskmuseum.ru; pr Lenina 75; R200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in the splendid Atashev Palace, this modest museum has a 2500-year-old bear amulet and an interesting exhibit on the Great Tea Trail. But it's the building, commissioned in 1842 by the gold-mining entrepreneur Ivan Atashev, that's the main attraction. It was once used as a church, hence the incongruous steeple tower and wonderful organ hall.
Resurrection HillHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This dimple-sized hill was the location of Tomsk’s original fortress, and the replica of its central wooden spasskaya bashnya (savior's tower), which stands here today, was built in 2004 for the city’s 400th anniversary celebrations. Next to the tower, the Tomsk Historical Museum (Исторический музей Томска
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; Resurrection Hill; museum/temporary exhibitions/viewing tower R60/80/50; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun) has spouted its own wooden observation tower; try to spot the seven historic churches from the top. The stone just outside the museum entrance marks the founding of the city.
Also up on Resurrection Hill is a pretty Catholic church ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Bakunina 4) dating to 1883.
WWII MemorialMONUMENT
( GOOGLE MAP )
A Tomsk landmark, this moving mother-and-son monument is at the very southern end of pr Lenina. The beautiful birch-tree park (Лагерный сад) here is a local favourite for strolls, not least for its fine views across the Tom River.
Tomsk Art MuseumMUSEUM
(Художественный музей
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; %3822-514 106; http://artmuseumtomsk.ru/page/1; per Nakhanovicha 3; R150; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Well worth popping into for its wide range of permanent and temporary exhibits. The highlight is the collection of 19th- and early 20th-century Russian art; there's also a small exhibit of 12th- to 13th-century religious icons.
DON'T MISS
WOODEN HERITAGE ARCHITECTURE
Much of Tomsk's appeal lies in its well-preserved late-19th- and early-20th-century 'wooden-lace' architecture – carved windows and tracery on old log and timber houses.There are a few streets to home in on if touring the city on foot.
Ul Tatarskaya has perhaps the richest concentration of such houses. It's reached via the steps beside a lovely old house at prospekt Lenina 56 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) (пр Ленина 56). The best examples are on the block north of ul Trifonova, where you'll also find the modest Red Mosque (Красная Мечеть MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Tatarskaya 22), which dates from 1904. It was used as a vodka factory by the atheist Soviets, but was reopened to worshippers in 1997. Over on the east side of pr Lenina, ul Gagarina is similarly endowed with graceful heritage houses.
A few blocks east of ul Belinskogo, near the corner of ul Krasnoarmeyskaya and ul Gertsena, look out for the spired, bright-turquoise Russian-German House (Российско-Немецкий Дом MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Krasnoarmeyskaya 71), built in 1904; the late 19th-century Dragon House (Дом Дракона MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Krasnoarmeyskaya 68) which is home to a clinic; and the fan-gabled early-20th-century Peacock House (Дом Павлина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Krasnoarmeyskaya 67a). Ul Dzerzhinskogo, one block east of ul Krasnoarmeyskaya, is worth a wander as well for wood houses and the colourful outdoor Dzherzhinskogo Market, which sprawls for a full block south of ul Kartashova, providing photo-ops as well as fuel in the form of local fruits and nuts.
Other streets worth strolling are per Kononova – look for No 2 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; per Kononova 2), where the doomed communist mastermind Sergei Kirov lodged in 1905 – and nearby ul Shishkova. Finally, if you walk from Resurrection Hill to the Voznesenskaya church (Вознесенская церковь MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Oktyabrsky Vzvoz 10), you will find yourself on a delightful, quiet road lined with timber log houses and lots of trees and plants. It's so much quieter than surrounding streets that it's easy to think you are in the countryside rather than a large town.
TTours
TomskturistTOURS
(Томсктурист
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; %3822-532 121; www.tomskturist.ru; ul Belinskogo 15, Hotel Sputnik; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat)
Tomskturist can arrange two-hour walking tours of the city, with English-, French- and German-speaking guides, although the price (R4500) makes this more of a group option. Can also help sort out Altai border-zone permits, arrange regional excursions and sell plane and train tickets. The offices are inside the Hotel Sputnik.
CHEKHOV ON TOMSK – ‘BORING CITY, DULL PEOPLE’
Not everyone falls in love with Tomsk. Playwright Anton Chekhov – who visited the city on his way to Russia’s Far East – certainly didn’t. ‘Tomsk isn’t worth a damn,’ he wrote in his diary. ‘A boring city…with dull people.’ He also described it as ‘a drunken city’ where there were ‘no beautiful women at all’. He also complained that a waitress had wiped a spoon ‘against her backside’ before handing it to him. But then, as legend has it, he did almost drown while crossing the Tom River, so maybe he was feeling grumpy. The city had its revenge, though. In 2004, on Tomsk’s 400th anniversary, a caricature of the famous writer was unveiled, in the form of a bronze statue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) entitled ‘Anton Pavlovich [the writer’s patronymic] through the eyes of a drunk lying in a ditch’. The statue is on the riverbank opposite Slavyansky Bazar restaurant. Rubbing its well-polished nose is said to bring good luck.
4Sleeping
Hotel SiberiaHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(Гостиница Сибирь
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-527 225; www.hotelsibir.tomsk.ru; pr Lenina 91; s/d/ste incl breakfast from R3500/4500/5000; nW)
This centrally located old hotel is popular, despite its largely unimaginative singles and doubles. It does, however, offer great suites with real fireplaces for R5500. Dinner is available on top of complimentary breakfast for R600 extra, but you’d be better off eating elsewhere.
Bon Apart HotelHOTEL$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-534 655; www.bon-apart.ru; ul Gertsena 1a; s/d incl breakfast from R4700/5900; W)
The large rooms here have comfortable, good-sized beds and polished-tile bathrooms, but are otherwise very plain. The walk-in rates (quoted here) aren't worth bothering with – by booking online you'll likely pay 60% less, which makes the place more tempting.
oGogol HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-909 709; http://gogolhotel.ru; ul Gogol 36a; s/d with breakfast from R3600/4800; naW)
Bordering on boutique, this classy 19-room property has quickly become Tomsk's most sought-after address. Rooms are spacious, with muted grey tones, and the walls are emblazoned with photos of old Tomsk. You can swim in the king-sized beds and the breakfast is fantastic.
Hotel MagistratHISTORIC HOTEL$$$
(Гостиница Магистрат
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-511 111; www.magistrathotel.com; pl Lenina 15; s/d incl breakfast from R6900/8900; aW)
Dating back to 1802, this hotel has an air of gravitas. At least, that's the case on the outside. Inside, there's lots of marble and a bit too much self-importance. The position, though, is prime and the rooms are truly enormous – a real rarity in Russia. No lift.
5Eating
BulanzheCAFE$
(Буланже
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; pr Lenina 80; mains R200-350; h10am-11pm; Wv)
Fantastic cafe – bright and cheery with an exciting menu of international food, fresh salads, great coffee and a wide tea selection. The Belgian waffles are highly recommended. It's a place to chat and chew rather than work on a laptop.
Obzhorni RyadRUSSIAN$
(Обжорный ряд
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Gertsena 1, Bon Apart Hotel; mains R200-250; h11am-10pm; W)
For penny-pinchers in search of good-value Russian fare, look no further than this stolovaya (cafeteria), whose name translates to Guzzler’s Row. Travelling children will appreciate the in-house play centre – and parents will appreciate the five minutes of peace it brings them. It's inside the Bon Apart Hotel.
oMarle BuaITALIAN$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-998 888; www.marlebua.ru; pl Lenina 11; mains R260-500; h8am-midnight Mon-Fri, 11am-2am Sat, 11am-midnight Sun)
For over 150 years this basement restaurant has been keeping the tummies of Tomsk full. In its latest incarnation it's an Italian restaurant and grill. As you'd expect from a place with such maturity, they know what they are doing in the kitchen, with dishes such as rabbit ragout, pasta and pizza. Service is smart and prices are low, considering the quality of food.
Vechny ZovRUSSIAN$$
(Вечный Зов
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-528 167; www.vechzov.tomsk.ru; ul Sovetskaya 47; mains R200-800; hnoon-2am; W)
Named after a popular Soviet TV serial, this is the place to sample Siberian specialities like stroganina (frozen raw chyr, a white fish common in Arctic rivers, muksun (an Ob River white fish) and, perhaps morally questionable, bear meat. Carnivores can even go for a four-meat (bear, deer, pork, beef) pelmeni (Russian-style dumplings stuffed with meat). It boasts a mock Siberian ranch outside and a cosy antique-filled home feel inside.
Coffee House Leto CafeCAFE$$
(Кофейная Лето
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Gagarina 2; meals R300-500; h8am-10pm; v)
A trippy, yellow vegetarian and glutton-free cafe decorated like a circus with kites and glass mobiles. The menu features food with hard-to-get (in Siberia) ingredients such as pumpkin, pesto and real feta cheese. Also has proper ground coffee.
oReka 827SEAFOOD$$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-902 020; www.reka827.ru; ul Kooperativnyy 2; mains R700-900; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat)
If it's summer, sit out on one of the sun loungers on the deck of this sophisticated restaurant and eat great seafood while watching the locals swim in the river below. The fish dishes here are prepared with verve, which means you can look forward to tastes such as whole fried octopus and little fishy tapas-style dishes.
oSlavyansky BazarRUSSIAN$$$
(Славянский Базар
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-515 553; pl Lenina 10; mains R500-1200; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu & Sun, noon-2am Fri & Sat; W)
Slavyansky Bazar, Tomsk's fanciest restaurant, is housed in a 19th-century building with an interior like something from a period drama. Chekhov ate at an earlier incarnation of this establishment in 1890. The food was one of the few things he liked about the city and if he ate here today, he would still approve. Expect refined takes on classic Russian dishes.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oUnderground Jazz CafeBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-516 319; www.jazzcafe.tomsk.ru; pr Lenina 46; cover charge weekends R250-400; h6pm-midnight; W)
A hip and literally underground basement with live jazz, including frequent US guests, most weekends. Also has an extensive drinks and food menu and old black-and-white films play in the background.
Sibirsky PubPUB
(Сибирский Паб
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; pl Novosobornaya 2; Guinness pints R360; h1pm-1am; W)
Siberia’s first Irish pub was founded over a century ago by a certain Mr Crawley, an Anglo-Egyptian albino who’d gotten stuck in Tomsk after touring with a circus freak show. There are fewer freaks today, but as compensation there is live music at weekends.
3Entertainment
oHuman Puppets Theatre 2+kuPUPPET THEATRE
(Театр живых кукол 2+ку
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-420 486; www.2ky.tomsk.ru; Yuzhniy per 29; tickets R200-500)
Housed in a quaint log cabin near the WWII memorial (take ul Savinykh all the way down until you can go no further), this one-man, homey ‘robotic puppet’ theatre is a real experience, and one you don’t need to understand Russian to appreciate. Check the website for performance details.
PhilharmoniaCONCERT VENUE
(Филармония
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-515 186; http://bkz.tomsk.ru; pl Lenina 1)
Classical music and great big-band jazz. Hosts the Tomsk International Jazz Festival in the first week of June.
Aelita TheatreTHEATRE
(Театр Аэлита
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-514 436; www.aelita.tom.ru; pr Lenina 78)
Eclectic offerings, from rock concerts to Indian dance to experimental plays.
Drama TheatreTHEATRE
(Драматический театр
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %3822-906 837; www.tomskdrama.ru; pl Lenina 4)
The drama theatre might be housed in a huge ugly slab of concrete on pl Lenina, but the performances are far from ugly.
Organ HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; pr Lenina 75; tickets R200-500; hconcerts 7pm, noon on Sun)
Beautiful organ concerts are held several times a month upstairs in the Atashev Palace. The acoustics are brilliant.
Trud StadiumSTADIUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Belinskogo 15/1)
Home stadium of local football side Tom Tomsk (Томь Томск ФК MAP GOOGLE MAP ; tickets from R300). There's a shop selling Tomsk scarves and T-shirts. It’s open 11am to 7pm Monday to Friday, and on weekends on home-match days.
7Shopping
Dzerzhinskogo MarketMARKET
(Дзержинского pынкa MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Dzerzhinskogo)
This market sprawls for a full block south of ul Kartashova, providing photo-ops as well as fuel in the form of local fruits and nuts.
8Information
Main Post Office (Почтамт
GOOGLE MAP
; pr Lenina 95; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) Stamps, but no postcards of Tomsk (find postcards in most museums).
8Getting There & Away
Air
Bogashevo Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tomskairport.ru), 22km southeast of Tomsk, has several daily flights to Moscow plus a few seasonal charters. The choice is much wider from Novosibirsk.
Bus
For Novosibirsk, buses (R740, 4½ hours, every hour) depart from the central bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; https://avtovokzal.tomsk.ru), which is right next to the main train station. Buses also serve Abakan (R1950, 17 hours, four weekly) and Novokuznetsk (R912, seven hours, two daily Monday to Saturday, one daily Sunday).
Train
From Tomsk 1 (main) train station, there's a train on even-numbered days to Barnaul (platskart/kupe R1100/2000, 15½ hours, 9.20pm) via Novosibirsk. There are trains on odd-numbered days to Novokuznetsk (R1100/1530, 12½ hours, 7.33pm) and Moscow (R7350/11,060, 56 hours), and a train every 4th day to Vladivostok.
For more frequent connections east (toward Irkutsk) and west (toward Novosibirsk), take an elektrichka (suburban train) to Taiga (R112, two hours, 9.06am and 4.15pm) or a bus to Yurga (R210, two hours, four daily); most main-line Trans-Siberian trains stop at both stations. Elektrichki from Taiga to Tomsk depart at 7.07am and 4.15pm.
8Getting Around
The bus station and Tomsk 1 (main) train station sit together about 2km southeast of the centre. Good maps are available in the train station and at street kiosks. A taxi to the city centre is around R150.
Buses 4, 12 and 12a run from pl Lenina to the train station via pr Lenina and pr Kirova. Hop on and off trolleybuses 1 and 3, or bus 17, which all go along pr Lenina.
Tomsk's antiquated and atmospheric trams are a great way to take a cheap (R15) city tour. Tram 2 runs the length of ul Sovetskaya before connecting with the train station via pr Kirova. Tram 1 trundles all the way to the city's northern outskirts via ul Sovetskaya and ul Bolshaya Podgornaya.
Novokuznetsk Новокузнецк
%3843 / Population 563,000 / Time Moscow +4hr
Novokuznetsk, the largest city in the industrial Kemerovo region, boasts a well-laid-out centre and some remarkable Soviet-era monuments. However, if you come here, chances are you're heading somewhere else – the city makes a convenient stopover point between Abakan and Biysk when overlanding between Tuva and Altai, and is also the jumping-off point to snowboarder haven Sheregesh.
Despite being used mainly as an overnight transit town the city isn't without its charms. There's a large central park that has a carnival atmosphere on summer weekends and a few low-key sights.
Founded on the right bank of the Tom River in 1618, the frequently enlarged Kuznetsk Fortress became one of the most important guardians of imperial Russia’s southeastern frontier. The city’s left (west) bank, named Stalinsk until 1961, was constructed almost from scratch by Soviet ‘shockworkers’ (superproductive workers) in the 1930s and is now the city centre. Novokuznetsk's metal plants, which supply 70% of Russia’s train tracks, are mainly responsible for Novokuznetsk being one of the five most polluted cities in Russia, according to government figures.
Pr Metallurgov stretches north from the train station to the main drag, ul Kirova. The Tom River is a couple of kilometres east along ul Kirova. Maps are available in a kiosk inside the train station.
1Sights
Kuznetsk FortressHISTORIC SITE
(Кузнецкая крепость
GOOGLE MAP
; %3843-360 100; http://kuzn-krepost.ru; Krepostnoy proezd 1; R20, plus per museum R100; hmuseums 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun)
The restored stone ramparts of the Kuznetsk Fortress are massive and topped with cannons, but represent only 20% of their 1810 extent. Kids ride ponies around the attractive grounds, concerts are held and there are couple of modest museums that you can pop into – the archaeology museum, which contains mammoth tusks and old stone tools, is probably the most interesting.
The fortress is in the old part of town on the right (east) bank of the Tom River. To get here take frequent bus 5 from outside the bus station and get off at the first stop over the bridge (15 minutes). It's a 15-minute walk up the hill to the fortress via the beautiful 1792 Transfiguration Cathedral (Преображенский собор GOOGLE MAP ; ul Vodopadnaya 18).
Park GagarinaPARK
( GOOGLE MAP ; pr Metallurgov)
If you only have a couple of hours to kill, take a stroll though this oasis of green just north of the train station. It contains a bust of a jolly-looking Yury Gagarin, a mothballed planetarium and the constructivist (and now empty) Kommunar Theatre (Кинотеатр Коммунар GOOGLE MAP ; pr Metalurgov 18), which once housed Siberia’s first audio cinema. Just north of the theatre, two splendidly reverential statues of Soviet-era metalworkers guard pleasant Mettalurgists' Garden ( GOOGLE MAP ; Park Gagarina).
In the summer there's always plenty of life in the park with lots of cultural events, concerts and get-togethers taking place. Most of the city seems to come for an evening walk here at such times.
Former Soviet Builders ClubHISTORIC BUILDING
( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ordzhonikidzye 23)
Guarded by two statues of Soviet workers, wielding a hammer and a plasterer’s board, the one-time cement workers’ club is now used as a cultural centre.
4Sleeping & Eating
Bardin Hotel & HealthSPA HOTEL$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %3843-357 200; www.bardinhotel.ru; ul Ordzhonikidze 32; s/d incl breakfast from R1920/2220; naWs)
A 10-minute stroll west of the city centre, the Bardin is a new business hotel and spa that leaves any other place to stay in Novokuznetsk in the shade. Crisp rooms with lots of beige tints, an indoor pool, a health centre and, on top of all that, the chefs at the in-house restaurant will keep you well fed.
Hotel NovokuznetskHOTEL$$
(Гостиница Новокузнецк
GOOGLE MAP
; %3843-465 155; www.novokuznetskaya.com; ul Kirova 53; s/d incl breakfast & dinner from R3200/4200; iW)
It's 1977 all over again at this massive, echoey throw back to the Soviet era. Fortunately, though, the rooms have been somewhat renovated and brightened up. It's now just those gloomy corridors that need a face lift... Rates include breakfast and dinner, but frankly you might prefer to eat dinner elsewhere.
Pechki-LavochkiRUSSIAN$
(Печки-Лавочки
GOOGLE MAP
; ul Kirova 21a; mains R200-400; h9am-8pm)
Traditional Russian food served in a rustic setting by waitresses dressed as peasants. The chain is named after a 1972 Soviet road film. It's next to a pharmacy on the city's main intersection (ul Kirova and pr Metalurgov).
8Information
Main Post Office (
GOOGLE MAP
; pr Metallurgov 21; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)
8Getting There & Away
There are a few flights a day from Novokuznetsk’s Spichenkovo Airport to Moscow (four hours). To get to the airport, take bus or marshrutka (fixed-route minbus) 160 from the train station.
The elektrichka (suburban train) to Novosibirsk leaves at 7.05am every day except Wednesday (2nd-1st-class R721/940, six hours). There are one or two slower regular trains to Novosibirsk per day as well, including an overnight option on odd-numbered days. Trains run daily to Abakan (platskart/kupe R900/1700, nine hours, 9.20pm), and on even-numbered days to Tomsk (R1050/2010, 12 hours, 5.24pm). There's a snail-slow elektrichka to Tashtagol (jumping-off point to Sheregesh) on odd-numbered days at 5.10am (from R136, five hours); the bus is a much better option.
From the bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ), right next to the train station, there are hourly buses to Tashtagol (R290, 3½ hours). Shared taxis are an option to Tashtagol in the ski season (about R750, two hours). Buses also serve Barnaul (R800, seven hours, three daily), Biysk (R500, 5¼ hours, five daily), Krasnoyarsk (R1425, 14½ hours, 6.40pm), Novosibirsk (R1100, eight hours, four daily) and Tomsk (R912, seven hours, two daily).
Sheregesh Шерегеш
%3843 / Population 10,170 / Time Moscow +4hr
Isolated and tiny Sheregesh is a mining village that has become the focus of a booming snowboarding and skiing scene in recent years. Those who make it here are rewarded with some of the most prolific snowfall in Russia, fairly uncrowded slopes and a raucous après-ski scene that would put many European resorts to shame. Out of season, Sheregesh has a lot less to offer, although you could use it as a base for day walks around the mountain ridges and through the forests. The journey here is an added bonus, winding through tiny villages and deserted country roads in view of the Gorniya Shoriya mountains.
2Activities
Off-season, you can hike up the ski mountain and then along the mountain ridge which extends for some way before dropping back down to the resort again. Allow a half-day for such a walk. There are plenty of other walking opportunities on the surrounding hills and forests but in most cases it's a bit of a DIY adventure. Good-quality mountain bikes can be rented (from R300 per day) from Ays Club to explore Sheregesh village or to seek out more rugged terrain in the hills (ask the knowledgeable folks at Ays).
Sheregesh Ski ResortSNOW SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.sheregesh.ru; gondolas R200, chairlifts per ride R100-150; h9.30am-5pm)
The ski resort sprawls over Zelyonaya (Green) Mountain (1257m), which is reputed to get Russia's finest powder. There are 17 different ski runs served by three gondolas and several chairlifts. The slopes close around late April, but a few lifts stay open in the off-season to bring tourists up the mountain for spectacular views of the village and the surrounding taiga. Ski and snowboard rental is widely available at the base of the mountain from R300 per hour including boots.
The lifts are run by several different operators, which means you pay by the ride (around R100) instead of by the day, but it ends up being a fantastic value no matter how many runs you take.
Off-piste rattrak (snowcat) skiing is another option, and continues into July (although you'll be hard-pressed to find equipment for rent after April). Snowcats gather skiiers near the top of the main gondola and proceed up to the unusual ‘Verbluda (Camel) Rocks'. Three hours of riding costs R500 per person – a real bargain.
Snowmobiles also make the trip to Verbluda Rocks (R800 for the half-hour round-trip journey). With the wind in your face as you speed through the snow, it’s hard not to feel a little like James Bond. Hold on tight! The trip lasts about half an hour, with time for photos and clambering about on the rocks.
4Sleeping
The vast majority of hotels are based around the mountain. Prices listed are for ski-season weekdays; rates rise substantially on weekends in the ski season, and drop in the off-season. Note that outside of the ski season many places are closed and even those that are open have something of a closed atmosphere to them!
oAys ClubHOSTEL$
(Айс Клуб
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-800-500 0489; www.ays-club.ru; dm R900, d from R2500; nWs)
Hip and funky, Ays is a self-contained party zone – a hostel, a pumping basement nightclub ('Bunker'), a cafe and the Clever Irish pub rolled into one. The cheap dorms make it an obvious choice for young snowboarders on a budget, while the stylish, spacious private rooms will appeal to young-at-heart midrange travellers.
One of the first hotels you’ll come across as you approach the mountain and one of the few places open year-round.
ShorhotelHOTEL$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %8-960-922 6084; ul Gagarina 27a; s/d R1100/1500; W)
In Sheregesh town rather than on the ski slopes, the small, family-run Shorhotel offers exceptional value for money with big, bright and quiet rooms, some of which have flowery photo murals on the walls. The downstairs cafe serves simple snacks and pancakes. It's a five-minute taxi ride to the ski lifts (R150).
OlgaHOTEL$$
(Ольга
GOOGLE MAP
; %3843-900 222; www.olgahotel.ru; d from R3300; nWs)
One of the biggest hotels in the area and as close to the ski lifts and nightlife as you can get, Olga's is a typical large, ski-resort hotel – in other words it's an uninspired block of dark but comfortable rooms with lots of on-site facilities. Next door, an ice rink is attached to its Beer Gesh restaurant.
BerlogaHOTEL$$$
(Берлога
GOOGLE MAP
; %3843-900 222; www.berlogahotel.ru; d from R5200; nWs)
This four-storey hotel describes itself as the ‘cosiest place’ in town and while other establishments might beg to differ, there’s no denying the Berloga’s attention to detail. Good-quality rooms, some with great views, as well as a swimming pool and a decent restaurant, make this an option worth considering.
5Eating & Drinking
There are several eateries at the top and base of the mountain for lunch, plus plenty of shashlyk (meat kebab) and other open-air snacks available. Breakfast and dinner are typically taken in your hotel. While you are in Sheregesh, be sure to try the local wild leek. Local women sell it by the roadside for around R25 a bag. Known locally as kabla, and cheremsha in Russian, its distinctive garlicky taste is one you won’t forget in a hurry!
YurtaCENTRAL ASIAN$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; mains R200-500)
Hearty Central Asian fare served in an oversized heated yurt at the main base area.
oGrelkaBAR
(
GOOGLE MAP
; mains R300-400; hnoon-11pm)
Right at the main base area, Grelka is the après-ski place. Convivial atmosphere, pub grub and competent bartenders serving a wide range of local and imported beers. When it warms up, the party moves out to the patio – it's a party you don't want to miss.
Grelka is also the brains behind Sheregesh's infamous 'Bikini Ride', an annual event held during 'Grelka Fest' that owns the world record for the most people (around 500) in swimwear on the slopes at one time (women and men).
CleverPUB
( GOOGLE MAP ; Ays Laska Hotel; Guiness pints R320)
This cleverly named Irish pub is a fine place for a pint of Guinness or a round of après-ski shooters. There's another branch in the Ays Club.
8Orientation
For most visitors Sheregesh means the ski resort with its collection of resort hotels, restaurants and bars. The actual town of Sheregesh is a couple of kilometres down the slope from the resort and is a thoroughly uninspiring place.
8Information
There are plenty of ATMs both in the town and at the base of the slopes, including in most hotels. Most have a R5000 per transaction restriction on foreign bank cards.
Sheregesh.ru (www.sheregesh.ru) has plenty of information on the scene at Sheregesh.
8Getting There & Away
Bus 101 connects Sheregesh with the village of Tashtagol every 30 minutes from 6.45am to 11.30pm (R30, 30 minutes). A taxi from Sheregesh to Tashtagol should cost R450 to the town of Sheregesh and R600 to a hotel in the resort itself. There are hourly buses until 7pm from Tashtagol to Novokuznetsk (R296, 3½ hours).
In the ski season, Ays-Club and a few other resorts run fun buses directly from Novosibirsk to their respective properties on the slopes – contact Ays-Club for details.
There is no public transport to Altai. A taxi to Gorno-Altaisk (3½ hours) or Artybash (three hours) from Sheregesh will set you back about R5000. The road to Altai is partially unsealed but passable year-round and the journey is a beautiful one taking in wildflower meadows, dark forests and deep lakes.
Sheregesh's main bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ) is in the middle of town at the corner of ul Yubileynaya and ul Dzerzhinskogo. A taxi from the main bus stop to the slopes costs a flat R150.