Russian Far East

Blagoveshchensk

Birobidzhan

Khabarovsk

Vladivostok

Tynda

Komsomolsk-na-Amure

Yakutsk

Magadan

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky

Around Petropavlovsky-Kamchatsky

Elsewhere in Kamchatka

Valley of the Geysers

Lake Kurilskoe

Mt Mutnovskaya

Esso

Russian Far East

Why Go?

Russia’s distant end of the line, the wild wild east feels likes its own entity. ‘Moscow is far’ runs the local mantra, and trade and transport connections with its Asian neighbours are growing fast.

Kamchatka, the vast mountainous peninsula at the end of Russia, is the star of the show with smoking volcanoes, hot springs and snow-capped peaks to rival any on earth. Elsewhere the region is not as scenically spectacular, but does boast two charming cities in Vladivostok and Khabarovsk, the exceptional engineering feat of the BAM railway (the travel nerd's alternative to the Trans-Siberian), the vast wildernesses of Sakha, old Gulag camps, Cossack fort towns and entire cities raised on stilts over permafrost.

Many travellers skip the Far East entirely, cutting south from Lake Baikal to China – but that’s all the better for those who make it here. Elbow room is definitely not in short supply.

When to Go

AFeb & Mar Still the season for snowy delights, only not dark or slushy.

AJun Essentially midspring, with all the beauty and daylight that entails (plus mozzies).

AJul & Aug The best months to visit Kamchatka, with largely warm and clear days.

Best Places to Eat

A Kvartira 30

A Muscat Whale

A Zuma

A Chochur Muran

A Kvartira na Prospekte

Best Places to Stay

A Khabarovsk City Boutique Hotel

A Izba Hostel

A Hotel Golden House

A Hotel Parus

A Hotel Bira

Russian Far East Highlights

1 Valley of the Geysers Spending a day exploring some of Kamchatka's most stunning scenery by helicopter.

2 Vladivostok Discovering the Russian Far East's most interesting and cosmopolitan city.

3 Esso Hiking through gorgeous alpine scenery followed by a soak in a geothermal pool in Kamchatka's most accessible village.

4 Lena Pillars Taking a cruise along the vast Lena River to see this magnificent natural phenomenon.

5 Khabarovsk Enjoying a scenic riverside stroll, admiring grand architecture and joining in the nightlife of this student town.

6 Komsomolsk-na-Amure Riding the extraordinary BAM railway to this charming and friendly Soviet outpost.

7 Sakha Republic Escaping the modern world for the reindeer-filled, lake-strewn landscapes of vast, empty Yakutia.

8 Blagoveshchensk Taking in exquisite tsarist buildings by the Amur River in this old Russian frontier town.

History

The Far East is Russia’s own version of the wild west, where hardened Cossacks in the early 17th century – and young Soviets (and Gulag camp prisoners) in the 20th – came to exploit the region’s untapped natural resources, such as gold in Kolyma, the diamonds of Sakha and oil off Sakhalin. The region was officially just a big chunk of Siberia until the Soviets anointed it a separate administrative entity in the 1920s. Geographers still consider most of the Far East part of Siberia. Yet it has always felt more distant, more challenging, more godforsaken than points west.

Locally, much ado is made of Anton Chekhov’s trip through the Far East to Sakhalin in 1890; of Bolshevik Marshal Vasily Blyukher’s victory in the last major battle of the Russian Civil War at Volochaevka outside Khabarovsk; and of Count Nikolai Muravyov-Amursky, the 19th-century governor of Eastern Siberia who did much to open up the Far East and consolidate Russian control of the left (north) bank of the Amur River. Less is made of the Russo-Japanese War, which humiliated Russia and ended with Japan taking the southern half of Sakhalin Island in 1905; the USSR got it back after WWII.

China and the USSR had their diplomatic bumps too, including an outright battle over an unremarkable river island near Khabarovsk in 1969. In June 2005 Russia and China finally settled a four-decade dispute over their 4300km border by splitting 50-50 the Bolshoy Ussurysky and Tarabarov Islands near the junction of the Amur and Ussuri Rivers, outside Khabarovsk.

If you stop off at purpose-built towns along the Baikal-Amur Mainline (Baikalo-Amurskaya Magistral; BAM), or make it further north to Magadan, it’s tempting to surmise that the whole region is in decline. The truth is far more complex. Busy Vladivostok saw a R600-billion makeover in preparation for the high-profile Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) summit in 2012, and Sakhalin Island is running wild in oil revenue. Even remote Yakutsk is seeing a surge in population, due largely to income from diamonds and gold in the area, so it would be premature to dismiss the Russian Far East as a region without a bright future.

INDIGENOUS GROUPS IN THE FAR EAST

Russia's rich cultural melting pot can seem utterly invisible if you only visit the main cities along the Trans-Siberian Railway. For a radically different perspective, it's worth getting off the beaten path, and learning a bit about the Far East's indigenous groups. A few starting points include the following:

Sakha Republic

Inhabiting a vast India-sized republic, the once-marginalised Sakha are today among the nation's most successful indigenous groups. Sakha (also known as Yakuts) have rich folk customs, including an oral storytelling tradition of great epic poems (some over 20,000 verses long), unique foods (like raw frozen fish, reindeer meat and fermented mare's milk) and a love for the khomus (mouth harp). Yakutsk is the gateway to it all, though if you want to arrange a visit to a shaman or experience traditional life, you'll have to travel well beyond the city.

Kamchatka

The peninsula is home to a number of different groups, including the Even, the Itelmeni and the Koryak. Home to a mix of all three groups, the village of Esso is the best place to learn about the region's cultural diversity, particularly at the excellent Ethnographic Museum. Nomadic Even communities of reindeer herders inhabit hard-to-reach northern regions, though you can join the annual solstice celebration in Anavgay (near Esso) each June. Another Kamchatka event worth planning a trip around is the 1000km-long Beringia dog-sledding race, held in March each year.

Amur River Valley

Numbering around 12,000, the Nanai live on both the Russian and Chinese side of the Amur River. Like many other Far Eastern peoples, the Nanai have a deep respect for nature, and believe the spirit world inhabits most of the physical world around them. The most accessible community to visit is the village of Verkhnyaya Ekon near Komsomolsk-na-Amure.

Eastern Trans-Siberian

Most travellers who make it this far east stick within this region, which extends along the final 40 hours or so of railroad that runs through anonymous villages north of the Chinese border, over the Amur River to lively Khabarovsk, and south through Primorsky Territory, ending at regional capital Vladivostok, the Far East's most enjoyable city and its dynamic hub.

Natural attractions are generally more rewarding in regions further north, but Khabarovsk and Vladivostok remain popular with travellers and are well set up for people on all budgets, while friendly Blagoveshchensk has the region’s most impressive tsarist architecture, and Birobidzhan, with its patina of Jewish culture, is in a bizarre world of its own.

Blagoveshchensk Благовещенск

%4162 / Pop 225,000 / Time Moscow +6hr

Blagoveshchensk is where modern China comes grinding up against provincial Russia, facing as it does the Chinese city of Heihe across the massive Amur River. The cultural weight of its giant neighbour can be felt throughout this modest, clean and tidy place – Chinese restaurants, street signs, tourists and business people are ubiquitous and it's fair to say that the city looks far more to the south than it does towards Moscow.

Located 110km south of the main Trans-Siberian railway line, Blagoveshchensk feels like a bit of a backwater and few visitors make it here. Those that do find some charming tsarist architecture and a friendly local population who seem simultaneously puzzled and delighted to have visitors.

1Sights & Activities

A good starting point for a wander around is on the riverfront at pl Lenina, where teen skaters take over the Lenin statue steps and tots take over the fountains. From here a short walk west along the pleasant riverside promenade, or along parallel ul Lenina, takes you to yawning pl Pobedy.

At the regional museum, pick up the darling Stary Blagoveshchensk (Old Blagoveshchensk) map (R10, in Russian) to plot your own walking tour of the dozens of glorious tsarist-era buildings on shady backstreets around the centre. The most impressive buildings are on ul Lenina within a few blocks of the museum and on and around nearby pl Pobedy.

Anton Chekhov came through Blagoveshchensk during his epic trip through the Far East in 1890 (and headed straight to a Japanese prostitute, as recounted luridly in his later-published letters). A bust commemorating Chekhov’s visit is on the facade of the lovely Institute of Geology and Wildlife Management building on pl Pobedy.

Amur Regional MuseumMUSEUM

(Амурский областной краеведческий музей GOOGLE MAP ; www.museumamur.org; ul Lenina 165; R300; h10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 10am-9pm Thu, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun)

Housed in a former tsarist-era trading house and Soviet-era HQ for the Communist Youth League (Komsomol), this impressive museum has 26 halls containing plenty of interesting photos, 1940s record players and a meteor that fell to earth in 1991 near Tynda. Russian-history buffs will enjoy the model of the 17th-century Cossack fortress in nearby Albazin and a painting depicting the Manchurian invasion of the fort in 1685. Signage is in Russian only.

River CruisesBOATING

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Amurskaya; per person R250)

One-hour daytime and evening river cruises leave from a pier at the east end of ul Amurskaya from mid-May through September.

4Sleeping

Green HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %8-924-841 9008; www.green-hostels.ru; ul Ostrovskaya 65; dm R500-700; W)

This basic and not terribly friendly place has three dorm rooms with lino floors and a shared kitchen. It's just one block east of the bus station and centrally located. It's best to call ahead and let them know you're coming.

Hotel GloriaHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Глория GOOGLE MAP ; www.hotelamur.com; ul Amurskaya 221; r from R3500; aW)

Definitely one of the city's best options, this smart business hotel has large rooms, modern bathrooms and all the creature comforts you'd expect at the upper midrange level. Staff are friendly and efficient, and you're a short walk from the main sights.

Hotel ArmeniaHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Армения GOOGLE MAP ; %4162-230 799; www.armeniablag.ru; ul Krasnoflotskaya 147; s/d incl breakfast from R2300/3800; aW)

In an ideal location on the riverfront walkway, the flashy Armenia has modern carpeted rooms done up in earthy hues, with flat-screen TVs and luxurious bathrooms. The best rooms have river views. There are several restaurants on-site, including a patio pizza spot and an overdecorated dining room serving excellent Armenian dishes.

Hotel StrannikHOTEL$$

(Отель Странник GOOGLE MAP ; %4162-490 467; www.strannik-otel.ru; ul Teatralnaya 23; r from R3000; aW)

This fun and friendly hotel has a range of fairly eccentrically furnished rooms that are nevertheless very comfortable and clean. Downstairs there's a rather cool restaurant open throughout the day – be sure to behold the wonderfully over-the-top toilets if you visit. There's a 5% reduction if you book via their website.

5Eating

SharLot CafeINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 113; mains R250-650; h9am-midnight; W)

Low lit and even a little bit stylish, SharLot Cafe has numerous menus, though sadly none of them are currently in English. However, many of them come with photos, so it's easy enough to point at what you want. Dishes range from salads, soups and pasta to meat and fish grills and various desserts.

Kofinya na BolshoiCAFE$$

(Кофейня на Большой GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 159; mains R350-750; h8am-1am; W)

Pleasant cafe with decent cappuccinos and a wide range of dishes including eggs and bliny for breakfast, and risotto and pizzas for later on.

MandarinCHINESE$$

(Мандарин GOOGLE MAP ; %4162-331 751; ul 50 Let Oktyabrya 28; mains R400-800; h11am-midnight; W)

There are actually two Chinese restaurants sharing one kitchen here. Mandarin is the quieter and more sophisticated of the two in terms of decor and can be found around the back of the building; Panda, larger and noisier, is the better signposted and most visible from the main avenue.

8Getting There & Away

Blagoveshchensk is 110km off the Trans-Siberian, reached via the branch line from Belogorsk. The train station (ЖД Вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; Statsionnaya ul) is 4km north of the river on ul 50 Let Oktyabrya, the main north–south artery. Take bus 30 (unless it's heading to 'mikro-rayon') from outside the station down ul 50 Let Oktyabrya to reach the centre.

Trains heading east backtrack to Belogorsk on their way to Khabarovsk (platskart/kupe from R3050/3700, 13 hours, daily). Heading west, trains serve Chita (platskart/kupe R3500/4200, 38 hours, even-numbered days) and Tynda (platskart/kupe R2800/3300, 16¼ hours, odd-numbered days).

Additional options are available from Belogorsk to the north or Bureya to the east. Marshrutky connect Blagoveshchensk’s bus station (автостанция GOOGLE MAP ; cnr ul 50 let Oktyabrya & ul Krasnoarmeyska) with the train stations in Belogorsk (R350, two hours, at least hourly from 7am to 7pm) and Bureya (R600, 3½ hours, three daily).

The River Terminal (Речной вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Chaykovskogo 1) sends six daily boats to Hēihé, China (return R1650, 15 minutes), from where there’s an evening train to Harbin. You’ll need a Chinese visa and a multiple-entry Russian visa if you plan to return.

Birobidzhan Биробиджан

%42622 / Pop 74,500 / Time Moscow +7hr

Quiet and shady, Birobidzhan is the rather unlikely capital of the Jewish Autonomous Region, a curious creation of Stalin designed to give Soviet Jews a homeland back in 1934 and which today remains the world's only officially Jewish territory outside Israel.

That the region failed to thrive is hardly surprising, given its swampy location, poor climate and the Stalin-sponsored waves of anti-Semitism that characterised the dictator's later years. But somehow, despite having just a tiny number of Jews living here, Birobidzhan retains a few hints of its Jewish heritage and is a pleasant and unusual place to get off and wander around on your way along the Trans-Siberian.

The main streets ul Lenina and partially pedestrian ul Sholom-Aleykhema parallel the tracks just a five-minute walk south on ul Gorkogo from the train station. The Bira River is another five minutes along, where you'll find a pleasant sculpture-lined walkway with piped-in music and a popular town beach. Sights to see along the way include Freud (Биробиджанская еврейская религиозная община Фрейд GOOGLE MAP ; %42622-41 531, 8-924-642 8731; ul Lenina 19; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri), the Jewish culture central centre and synagogue. Call or ask around for Rabbi Roman Isakovich, who will give you a tour of the complex and talk about local history. The Regional Museum (Областной краеведческий музей GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 25; R100; h10am-6pm Wed-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) has an excellent exhibit on the arrival of Jewish settlers to Birobidzhan in the 1930s, plus boars and bears and a mini diorama of the Volochaevka civil war battle.

For further reading, Masha Gessen's account of the Jewish Autonomous Region's history, Where the Jews Aren't, is highly recommended.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHotel BiraHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Бира GOOGLE MAP ; %42622-77 778; www.bira-hotel.ru; ul Sovetskaya 21; r from R2900; aW)

Easily the pick of the hotels in Birobidzhan, the Bira is modern, with large and comfortable rooms that have fridges and safes as well as the more standard appliances. There's a sauna on-site as well as a billiards room, and the location is good.

Cafe SimkhaJEWISH$$

(Кафе Симха GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 19; mains R300-600; h10am-11pm; W)

With its Star of David light fittings and multiple types of hummus on the menu, Cafe Simkha is in it to win it as Birobidzhan's premier Jewish restaurant, even if much of its menu is Italian. It's also definitely the smartest place in town, bordering on the flouncy, but the food is tasty and good value.

FelicitaCAFE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Gorkogo 10; mains R250-750; h10am-midnight; W)

A short stroll from the train station, Felicita is an attractive, Italian-themed cafe, with coffee, salads, light meals and pizzas.

8Getting There & Away

As a town on the Trans-Siberian, Birobidzhan is most commonly reached by train. It's just three hours from Khabarovsk or 10 hours from Blagoveshchensk. Coming from the west, you can easily stop off at Birobidzhan, have a look around and then grab a later train or bus for Khabarovsk.

While all Trans-Siberian trains stop at Birobidzhan train station (ЖД вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; Privokzalnaya pl), if you’re heading to Khabarovsk, it’s actually cheaper on the elektrichka (suburban train; R330, three hours, six daily).

You can also catch marshrutky to Khabarovsk (R350, three hours, hourly until 6pm) from the small bus station (автостанция GOOGLE MAP ) beside the train station.

Khabarovsk Хабаровск

%4212 / Pop 607,000 / Time Moscow +7hr

The Far East’s most pleasant surprise, Khabarovsk boasts a dreamy riverside setting, vibrant nightlife, lots of greenery and boulevards lined with pretty tsarist-era buildings. It's something of a revelation if you're arriving on the train from Siberia to see such a pleasant and thriving place after days of relentless taiga.

Khabarovsk's trump card is its well-developed riverside park, which includes pleasant walkways through the trees, some lovely viewpoints and a popular town beach where people swim in the Amur River during the summer months.

It’s hot in summer, but winter temperatures give it the unglamorous title of ‘world’s coldest city of over half a million people’. A dazzling display of ice sculptures occupies central pl Lenina from January until the spring thaw.

History

Khabarovsk was founded in 1858 as a military post by Eastern Siberia’s governor-general, Count Nikolai Muravyov (later Muravyov-Amursky), during his campaign to take the Amur back from the Manchus. It was named after the man who got the Russians into trouble with the Manchus in the first place, 17th-century Russian explorer Yerofey Khabarov, of whom a statue stands outside the train station today.

The Trans-Siberian Railway arrived from Vladivostok in 1897 and quickly heralded the development of Khabarovsk from a small town to a medium-sized city. During the Russian Civil War (1917–22), the town was occupied by Japanese troops. The final Bolshevik victory in the Far East was at Volochaevka, 45km west.

In 1969 Soviet and Chinese soldiers fought a bloody hand-to-hand battle over little Damansky Island in the Ussuri River. Since 1984, tensions have eased. Damansky and several other islands have been handed back to the Chinese.

Khabarovsk

1Sights

1Archaeology MuseumB3

2Assumption CathedralC3

3Far Eastern Art MuseumB3

4Far Eastern State Research LibraryC3

5House of PioneersD2

6Khabarovsk Regional MuseumB3

7Transfiguration CathedralE5

8Tsentralny GastronomC3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

9Amur River CruiseC5

10Sergey OutfitterF3

4Sleeping

11Amur HotelF4

12Hostel ValenciaE3

13Hotel ParusC4

14Khabarovsk City Boutique HotelC2

15Like Hostel KhabarovskE2

5Eating

16ChocolateC3

17FarshE2

18Muscat WhaleD3

19PlantaciaE2

20SatsiviD3

21Trattoria SempliceF1

22VdrovaD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

23BrozbarC4

24GatsbyC3

25Harat'sE2

26Harley Davidson BarC3

3Entertainment

27Lenin StadiumA2

7Shopping

Tainy RemeslaD2

Transport

28River TerminalC5

29SakhekspoC5

1Sights

Walking is the main activity in Khabarovsk. Good spots are the fabulous riverfront, the busy main drag; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo with its impressive turn-of-the-20th-century architecture including the striking Far Eastern State Research Library (Дальневосточная государственная научная библиотека MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 1), the mint-green Tsentralny Gastronom ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 9) topped by a statue of Mercury and the former House of Pioneers (Дом пионеров MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 17), now a 'palace of childhood creation’; and the green walkways that run up the middle of both Amursky bul and Ussuriysky bul, either side of ul Muravyova-Amurskogo.

Khabarovsk Regional MuseumMUSEUM

(Хабаровский краевой музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hkm.ru; ul Shevchenko 11; R350; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Located in an evocative 1894 red-brick building, this museum contains an excellent overview of Russian and Soviet history, despite not having a single word of non-Russian signage. Galleries take you decade by decade through the past with fascinating propaganda posters, old film clips, audio snippets, black-and-white photos (like the sad crowds gathered at the announcement of Stalin's demise) and rooms with period furnishings and accoutrements that give a taste of what life was like.

There's even a small section devoted to the Gulag (fitting, since the nearby prison population was bigger than the city’s in the 1930s). Another section has garments, sleds and carvings of native peoples. The less intriguing new building has a wing dedicated to the Amur River, with live fish in tanks, and more stuffed animals.

Assumption CathedralCATHEDRAL

(Градо-Хабаровский Успенский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Komsomolskaya pl)

Built in 2002 this striking cathedral rose on the site of a far older church that was knocked down by Stalin during his antireligious campaigns.

Archaeology MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Археологии MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-24 177; ul Turgeneva 86; R250; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Undergoing a full renovation in 2017, this five-room museum displays tools and living essentials from early peoples. Pottery, animal-skin huts, dugout canoes, a tiny model settlement and many early hand tools are all normally here, though it was unclear how much of the original exhibit would remain on display when the museum reopens.

Transfiguration CathedralCATHEDRAL

(Спасо-Преображенский собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina)

This highly impressive church's golden domes dazzle you from all over the city, with its prime location overlooking the Amur River. The cathedral was built in the early 21st century and is the third tallest church in Russia, topping off at 96m. Inside there's one massive central iconostasis, but otherwise it's almost entirely bare.

Far Eastern Art MuseumMUSEUM

(Дальневосточный художественный музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Shevchenko 7; Tue-Fri/Sat & Sun R250/300; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

This smart and imposing building hosts a moderately interesting collection of local art, including religious icons, Japanese porcelain and 19th-century Russian paintings.

2Activities & Tours

The most popular area tour offered by travel agents is to the interesting Nanai village of Sikachi-Alyan ( GOOGLE MAP ), where you can view the Sikachi-Alyan petroglyphs – stone carvings supposedly dating back 12,000 years. Hunting and fishing opportunities abound in the wild and woolly Khabarovsk region.

Amur River CruiseBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; river boat landing; cruises from R500)

Vital to Khabarovsk’s rise, the Amur River can be seen on (at times rollicking) party boats. Cruises on the Moskva-81 depart every two hours from 12.30pm to 12.30am, provided enough customers show up.

Sergey OutfitterTOURS

(Туристическая компания Вэлком MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-735 990, 8-914-542 1331; www.sergoutfitter.com; Office 1, ul Dzerzhinskogo 24)

Burly Sergei Khromykh is your man if you are looking to do some hunting or fishing in the vast wilderness of Khabarovsk Territory or elsewhere in the Far East. Call ahead to arrange for an English-speaking guide.

Portal SezonovTOURS

(Портал Сезонов GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-389 288; www.dvtravel.ru; ul Leningradskaya 58)

Located in the train station, the respected Portal Sezonov runs a wide range of tours, including hiking and fishing trips, as well as city tours. English-speaking guides available.

4Sleeping

Kakadu HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-788 095; www.kakaduhostel.ru; entrance 1, ul Sheronova 10; dm R650, d with/without bathroom R2200/1600; aW)

This friendly and colourful hostel has pleasant male and female dorms, cosy private rooms, helpful staff and a clear sign visible from the main road (other Russian hostels, please take note!). There's a kitchen and communal lounge, free laundry and English is spoken. Get directions before setting out.

From the airport take marshrukta 80 to the Volocvhayevskaya stop. From the train station take trams 1, 2 or 6 to the Ussuriyskaya stop.

Like Hostel KhabarovskHOSTEL$

(Лайк Хостел Хабаровск MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-924-403 4194; www.likehostels.ru; flat 20, entrance 2, ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 50; dm/s/d R590/1500/2000; aW)

This pleasant place has a fantastic location on the main avenue and is housed in a large apartment now divided into male and female dorms and a couple of private rooms. There's a kitchen and small communal area, but no English-speaking staff. Enter the courtyard of the building from ul Sheronova, look for entrance 2 in the corner and dial '20'.

oHostel ValenciaGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-914-172 7262; 3rd fl, ul Dzerzhinskogo 21a; s/d/tr/q with shared bathroom from R1600/1800/2400/2800; iW)

Named after the city where the owners lived for many years, this friendly eight-room guesthouse has bright, attractively designed rooms that are kept sparkling clean. All rooms share bathrooms and toilets, but there's no kitchen and breakfast is not served. It remains a good deal though – find it in the last building in the yard, 75m back from the road.

Versailles HotelHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Версаль GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-910 150; www.versal-hotel.net; Amursky bul 46a; s/d incl breakfast from R3200/3500; aiW)

This cheerful hotel, an easy walk from the train station, has pleasant red-carpeted rooms with fridges and small sitting areas. It’s set back from the street, fronted with lamp posts.

oKhabarovsk City Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(Бутик-отель Хабаровск Сити MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-767 676; www.boutique-hotel.ru; ul Istomina 64; s/d incl breakfast from R3500/4500; aiW)

Khabarovsk’s most foreigner-friendly hotel has large, attractive rooms adorned with black-and-white photos from a bygone era. Throw in gorgeous bathrooms with rain showers, luxurious white bedspreads, a full complement of mod cons and a great location, and it's clear this is an excellent pick.

oHotel ParusHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(Гостиничный комплекс Парус MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-335 555; www.hotel-parus.com; ul Shevchenko 5; s/d incl breakfast from R4950/6950; aiW)

Part of a century-old brick building near the water, the 82-room Parus is definitely the smartest and most atmospheric top-end accommodation in Khabarovsk, with its chandeliers, iron staircase, riverside garden and reading room. Rooms are flouncy but sizeable and boast expensive Italian furniture and flat-screen TVs. Friendly, English-speaking service.

Amur HotelHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Амур MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-221 223; www.amurhotel.ru; ul Lenina 29; s/d incl breakfast from R4000/6000; aiW)

Having undergone an impressive renovation, this one-time Soviet place has begun a new life as a stylish and (almost) boutique hotel with a low-lit, arty reception and a totally overhauled restaurant downstairs. The rooms are not as smart as the lobby might suggest, but they are comfy, clean and have ornate moulded ceilings.

5Eating

PlantaciaCAFE$

(Плантация MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 38; sandwiches R100-200; h8am-midnight; W)

On Khabarovsk's main avenue, this reliable and great-value subterranean spot serves good coffee, baked goods and sandwiches, making it an ideal breakfast or lunch place. You'll also find local chains Tempo Pizza and Papa Wok, Mama Pasta in the same basement, giving you plenty of culinary variety. It's popular with a young, student crowd.

oMuscat WhaleITALIAN$$

(Мускатный кит MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Kalinina 82; mains R400-800; h10am-11.30pm; W)

This gorgeous, chic, yet pleasantly unfussy, place is currently our top choice for a meal in Khabarovsk. The large and luminous space has white-tiled walls, painted brick and lots of wooden fittings, while its menu boasts wonderful fresh salads, scrumptious pizzas, innovative meat dishes and a huge dessert list.

VdrovaPIZZA$$

(ВДрова MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 15; mains R300-500; h11am-midnight; W)

Vdrova comes with whimsically dressed Italian-style 'animators' who welcome you loudly, and sing, prance and shout throughout your meal in joyous waves of distraction perfect for anyone who doesn't have much to say to their dinner partner. The pizzas are some of the best in town though, and while many will hate the forced bonhomie, it can be a lot of fun.

FarshFUSION$$

(Фарш MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sheronova 72; mains R300-800; h10am-midnight; W)

Another progressive place with an interesting and pleasingly unusual menu. Farsh dubs itself a gastrobar, but is really more of a fusion place with dishes such as Armenian tortillas filled with cheese, boiled pork salad with grapes in mustard sauce, and shrimp and squid wontons all on the menu. The stripped-down, white-painted walls give it a minimalist feel.

SatsiviGEORGIAN$$

(Сациви MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Frunze 53; mains R200-450; hnoon-midnight, until 2am Fri & Sat; Wvc)

Despite its fairly unhelpful location in a rather sterile business centre, Satsivi is fiercely popular and puts on a good show of being a traditional Georgian restaurant. Named after a delicious chicken in walnut sauce dish popular in Georgia, Satsivi is a winner and boasts Khabarovsk's best Georgian cooking. The summer terrace is a great alternative to the rather dark main dining room.

Trattoria SempliceITALIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-206 051; ul Pushkina 54; mains R300-500; h11am-11.30pm; v)

White-painted plank walls, linen curtains and fresh-cut flowers brighten up this downstairs space near pl Lenina. The piping-hot thin-crust pizzas are among the city's best and even a small one can feed two (unless you're famished). The welcome is warm and friendly.

ChocolateCAFE$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Turgeneva 74; mains R500-1400; h24hr; W)

A smart cafe favoured by Khabarovsk's upper middle class with a pricey menu of slick international dishes by day (fajitas, sautéed squid, smoked duck breast), it becomes a prime party spot after hours.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oGatsbyLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-604 333; ul Istomina 49; hnoon-4am Mon-Thu, to 8am Fri & Sat, 5pm-4am Sun; W)

Handsomely designed Gatsby has a main-level restaurant and lounge (with good food from R300 to R800). Downstairs is a swanky bar in one room, with big comfy seats around a horseshoe-shaped bar, and a small dance floor with DJ in another room. It draws a young stylish crowd, but the vibe overall is remarkably welcoming.

BrozbarCRAFT BEER

(Брозбар MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-204 230; ul Turgeneva 60; h9am-midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

With its industrial feel, this new edition to Khabarovsk's busy bar scene is definitely on the edgier side atmosphere-wise (well, at least by local standards). It has a good range of local and international craft beers on sale as well as a full food menu.

Harat'sIRISH PUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.harats.ru; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 44; h5pm-6am; W)

This traditionally decorated Irish-style pub has a good beer selection (with dozens on tap) and features live music regularly, with occasional cover charges (up to R300). It can be a lot of fun when it's full, but feels slightly eerie when empty due to all the slightly overdone Irish paraphernalia heaving on the walls.

Harley Davidson BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Komsomolskaya 88; h24hr)

Features nightly shows (rock or country bands, cabaret), 10 brews on tap, tattooed bartenders and a long wooden bar. Upstairs is a veranda bar with street views. Cover charge runs R300 on weekends, when it's absolutely packed with the cream of Khabarovsk's rocker youth.

3Entertainment

Theatre of Musical ComedyTHEATRE

(Хабаровский краевой театр драмы и комедии GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-211 196; ul Karla Marksa 64; tickets R100-1200)

Funny operettas run from November to April; big musical acts run from May to October. There’s also the occasional ballet.

Platinum ArenaICE HOCKEY

(Платинум Арена GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-313 502; www.platinumarena.ru; ul Dikopoltseva 12)

This is the home arena for Khabarovsk’s ice hockey team, the Amur Tigers, a hot ticket from October to March.

Lenin StadiumFOOTBALL

(Стадион Ленина MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Riverfront Sports Complex; tickets from R150)

Home to Khabarovsk’s first-division football team, SKA-Energiya.

7Shopping

Tainy RemeslaGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(Тайны ремесла MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 17; h10am-7pm)

This is the best souvenir shop in town, located in the old House of Pioneers building.

8Information

Post Office (Почта GOOGLE MAP ; ul Muravyova-Amurskogo 28; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)

GETTING CHINESE VISAS IN THE FAR EAST

It's best to arrange Chinese visas in your home country, although foreigners with verve can attempt to obtain a Chinese visa on the road. In the Far East, only the consulate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-302 590; www.chinaconsulate.khb.ru/rus; Southern Bldg, Lenin Stadium 1; h11am-1pm Mon, Wed & Fri) in Khabarovsk provides this service.

A one-month tourist visa for most costs from R2000 for five-day processing (expedited visas sometimes possible with a higher fee). Americans pay R9000 and Canadians pay R7300 (10-day processing only). You’ll need a letter of invitation, application form and copies of your immigration card, latest hotel registration and Russian visa. All forms are in Russian, but travel agencies in Khabarovsk may be able to assist you with your application.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Khabarovsk Novy Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-262 006; www.airkhv.ru) is 7km east of the train station, and a taxi from the city centre costs around R300. This is the best connected airport in the Far East, with flights to cities throughout the region, as well as to many other large cities in Russia.

Boat

Many companies at the river terminal (Речной вокзал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ussuriysky bul; h8am-7pm), such as Sakhekspo (Сахэкспо MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4212-656 668, 8-924-312 3019; 421624@mail.ru; Ussuriysky bul), offer morning and evening departures to Fùyuán, China (90 minutes), which cost R4500 including tour and overnight lodging.

Bus

The bus station (Автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Voronezhskaya 19), 500m north of the train station (go by tram or bus 4), sends nine buses daily to Komsomolsk (R600, 6½ hours) and hourly marshrutky to Birobidzhan (three hours, R350) until 6pm.

Train

The full-service train station (ЖД вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Leningradskaya) is lovely, with a handy supermarket nearby (to the left of the station when exiting). Note that almost all trains to Vladivostok are overnight.

It's also worth bearing in mind that the westbound/eastbound 1/2 Rossiya train between Moscow and Vladivostok (platskart from R17,300) is significantly more expensive than all other trains (platskart from R11,300), and only slightly faster (five days and 12 hours versus six days and three hours). The 7/8 train between Novosibirsk and Vladivostok is also relatively expensive.

For Birobidzhan, take any westbound train or a cheaper elektrichka (R330, three hours, six daily).

8Getting Around

From Khabarovsk’s train station, about 3.5km northeast of the waterfront, bus 4 goes to Komsomolskaya pl (board opposite the station and head southeast) and trams 1 and 2 go near pl Lenina.

From the airport, 9km east of the centre, trolleybus 1 goes to Komsomolskaya pl along ul Muravyova-Amurskogo and bus 35 goes to the train station (25 minutes) and bus station. An official taxi to the centre from the airport is R500; usually R300 the other way.

Trolleybuses and trams cost R22.

Vladivostok Владивосток

%4232 / Pop 606,000 / Time Moscow + 7hr

The unofficial capital of the Russian Far East and one of Russia's most important commercial ports and naval bases, Vladivostok ('Master the East') is also a thoroughly charming city, with a gorgeous, hilly setting, striking architecture and numerous verdant islands and sandy bays along its Pacific coastline. Most notable of these is Golden Horn Bay (named for its likeness to Istanbul’s), over which now soars a massive suspension bridge, one of two built in recent years that have hugely improved the city's lumbering Soviet-era infrastructure.

The rest of Russia slowly seems to be waking up to Vladivostok's potential as well. In 2016 St Petersburg's Mariinsky Theatre inaugurated its impressive glass and steel Primorsky Stage, while the Hermitage Vladivostok is due to open in 2018. Vladivostok buzzes with cocktail bars, excellent restaurants and a renewed sense of purpose – don’t miss the Far East's most dynamic and fast-paced city.

History

Founded in 1860, Vladivostok (meaning ‘Master the East’) became a naval base in 1872. Tsarevitch Nicholas (later Tsar Nicholas II) turned up in 1891 to inaugurate the new Trans-Siberian rail line. By the early 20th century, Vladivostok teemed with merchants, speculators and sailors of every nation in a manner more akin to Shànghǎi or Hong Kong than to Moscow. Koreans and Chinese, many of whom had built the city, accounted for four out of every five of its citizens.

After the fall of Port Arthur in the Russo-Japanese War of 1904–05, Vladivostok took on an even more crucial strategic role, and when the Bolsheviks seized power in European Russia, Japanese, Americans, French and English poured ashore here to support the tsarist counterattack. Vladivostok held out until 25 October 1922, when Soviet forces finally marched in and took control – it was the last city to fall.

In the years to follow, Stalin deported or shot most of the city’s foreign population. Closed to foreigners from 1958 to 1992, Vladivostok opened up with a bang in the ’90s – literally (Mafia shoot-outs were a part of early business deals). It quickly established itself as the most prosperous and dynamic city in the Far East as trade and transport links with its Asian neighbours blossomed.

Vladivostok’s infrastructure was torn asunder and rebuilt for the big APEC summit on Russky Island in 2012. The most eye-catching developments include two giant suspension bridges: one across Golden Horn Bay to the previously difficult-to-access Cherkavskogo Peninsula, the other spanning more than 4km to Russky Island across the Eastern Bosphorus Strait. A brand-new university campus opened there in 2012, and it's here that the city's break-neck development continues apace.

Vladivostok

1Sights

1Arsenev Regional MuseumC2

2FunicularG2

3Hermitage VladivostokD2

4Primorsky Picture GalleryC3

5S-56 SubmarineE3

6Sportivnaya HarbourA1

7Transfiguration CathedralD3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

8Bridges of VladivostokC3

9DalintouristC2

10Vladivostok Digger ClubD2

4Sleeping

11Azimut HotelA3

12Equator HotelB2

13Gallery & More GuesthouseC2

14Hotel MoryakC3

15Hotel PrimoryeB4

16Hotel VersaillesB2

17Izba HostelC1

18Mattress, Sailor & Albatross HostelD2

19Optimum HostelC3

20TeploB4

21Vlad Marine InnB2

5Eating

22Brothers Bar & GrillB4

23Clover HouseC1

24Five O'ClockC2

25Food Like FoodC2

26Kvartira 30D1

27Mauro GianvanniC2

28Moloko & MyodE2

29Ne RidayB2

30Pizza MB4

31RepublicC4

32StudioC2

33SupraB1

34ZumaB1

6Drinking & Nightlife

35Cuckoo ClubC3

36MoonshineB2

37Mumiy TrollB1

38Old FashionedE3

3Entertainment

39Philharmonic HallC2

40Stadium DinamoB1

41Zabriskie PointA3

7Shopping

42Flotsky UnivermagC2

43GUMD2

8Information

44Primorsky Tourist Information CentreE2

Transport

InvestStroyTrestC4

45Marine TerminalC4

Storm MarineC4

46Ul Aksakovskaya Bus StopG1

1Sights

Vladivostok's sights are rather spread out, so be prepared to get to grips with the local public transport network or take plenty of taxis or tours. That said, the city centre is walkable.

Central Vladivostok

The main square in Vladivostok is portside pl Bortsov Revolyutsii, where a massive new cathedral (Спасо-Преображенский кафедральный собор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl Bortsov Revolyutsii) was under construction at the time of writing. The two main avenues are ul Aleutskaya and ul Svetlanskaya, which run perpendicular to one another and meet just west of pl Bortsov Revolyutsii. Ul Fokina (aka the Arbat) is a partially pedestrianised 'walking street' where locals stroll in the evening, running down to the cute Sportivnaya Harbour, another lovely place to wander.

Arsenev Regional MuseumMUSEUM

(Приморский Государственный Объединенный музей имени В. К. Арсеньева MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-413 977; ul Svetlanskaya 20; R400; h10am-7pm)

This recently redone museum dates from 1890 and offers three floors of galleries, although there's little in the way of English labelling. Exhibits delve into local history, covering early explorers of the region, Vlad's vibrant Chinatown from the early 1900s, and civil war (with a short silent film playing across a broken screen). English-speaking guides are sometimes available for free tours.

Hermitage VladivostokMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hermitage.ru; ul Svetlanskaya 40)

This gorgeous tsarist-era building in the centre of Vladivostok is the latest big cultural institution to open a Far Eastern campus. Once complete, the fully renovated building will host temporary exhibits from the Hermitage's vast collection in St Petersburg.

S-56 SubmarineMUSEUM

(Подводная лодка С-56 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-216 757; Korabelnaya nab; R100; h9am-8pm)

Perched near the waterfront, the S-56 submarine is worth a look. The first half is a ho-hum exhibit of badges and photos of men with badges (all in Russian). Keep going: towards the back you walk through an officers’ lounge with a framed portrait of Stalin and then onto a bunk room with Christmas-coloured torpedoes. Outside, note the ‘14’, marking the WWII sub’s ‘kills’.

Vladivostok Fortress MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей Владивостокская Крепость GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-400 896; ul Batareynaya 4a; R200; h10am-6pm)

On the site of an old artillery battery overlooking Sportivnaya Harbour, this museum has cannons outside, a six-room indoor exhibit of photos and many, many guns inside. There are English explanations, so it's quite accessible by Russian museum standards.

Primorsky Picture GalleryGALLERY

(Приморская государственная картинная галерея MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Aleutskaya 12; R250; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun)

Vladivostok’s main art museum on Partizansky pr has long been under renovation and shows no sign of reopening any time soon. In the meantime, some of its decent collection can be seen at rotating temporary shows held at this annex.

FunicularFUNICULAR

(Фуникулёр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pushkinskaya; tickets R12; h7am-8pm)

Vladivostok’s well-oiled funicular railway makes a fun 60-second ride up a 100m hill every few minutes (unless the old girl is experiencing one of her frequent 'technical breaks'). At the top, cross ul Sukhanova via the underpass to a great lookout over the bay. It’s next to a statue of Sts Cyril and Methodius (inventors of the Cyrillic alphabet) on the campus of DVGTU.

The base of the funicular is about a 15-minute walk from the centre.

Outer Vladivostok

oZarya Centre for Contemporary ArtMUSEUM

(Центр современного искусства «Заря» GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-317 100; www.zaryavladivostok.ru; pr 100 let Vladivostoky 155; hnoon-8pm Mon-Thu, 11am-10pm Fri-Sun)F

The full renovation and repurposing of a former clothing factory into a giant creative complex containing offices, studios, cafes and work spaces is one of Vladivostok's most interesting recent developments. Visitors will be most interested in the excellent Zarya Centre for Contemporary Art, which is divided into two exhibition halls where top-notch contemporary art and design exhibitions are held. Check out what's on via the website.

To get here from the centre, take bus 41 from outside Clover House or bus 31 from outside the train station to the stop Fabrika Zarya and then cross the road using the bridge.

Primorsky OceanariumAQUARIUM

(Приморский Oкеанариум GOOGLE MAP ; %423-223 9422; www.primocean.ru; ul Akademika Kasyanova 25; adult/child R700/400; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun; c)

This massive new development on Russky Island is one of Vladivostok's planned key attractions and opened with great fanfare in 2016. It's a vast space in a remote, purpose-built building, and while it has all the potential to be a great attraction, it actually had the feel of a place struggling on our last visit. The dolphinarium was closed, many tanks were empty and no food or drinks were available. Hopefully things will improve in time.

To get out here, jump on bus 15 from ul Aksakovskaya and get off at the last stop. A free shuttle bus will take you to the oceanarium's main entrance, or you can just walk the 500m yourself.

Russky IslandISLAND

(Остров Русский GOOGLE MAP )

A fully militarised zone for most of the past 150 years, this big island just offshore has been reinvented as a business and academic centre and is home to the sprawling Far Eastern Federal University campus and the new Oceanarium. There's great tourism potential here, not least for some excellent beaches as you go deeper and deeper into the island and away from the city, but at the moment Russky Island is very much a DIY attraction.

Access to the island is by bus over the suspension bridge. Take a northbound bus 29 or bus 15 from Okeansky pr or ul Aksakovskaya. The more-frequent bus 15 takes you to the DVFU campus, from which you can transfer to a minibus 29, which makes a loop, stopping in Rynda and other spots on the island. Rynda has a couple of resorts and the best beaches (just hop out when you see one you like). There are many forts on the island, including the Voroshilov Battery (Музей Ворошиловская батарея GOOGLE MAP ; Russky Island; R200; h9am-5pm Wed-Sun).

Antique Automobile MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей автомотостарины GOOGLE MAP ; www.automotomuseum.vl.ru; ul Sakhalinskaya 2a; R200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

If you’re a bit of a car (or Soviet) nerd, the Antique Automobile Museum is an absolute classic. A room full of Sovietmobiles (motorcycles too) from the 1930s to 1970s includes a 1948 M&M-green GAZ-20 ‘Pobeda’ (Victory). Take bus 31 along ul Svetlanskaya and get off after it reaches the end of ul Borisenko.

Fort No 7FORTRESS

(Форт No 7 GOOGLE MAP ; R300; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Of Vladivostok's multiple, numbered defensive forts, No 7 (14km north of the centre) gets our vote. It has 1.5km of tunnels, pretty much untouched since the last 400 soldiers stationed here left in 1923, although the NKVD later used it as an execution chamber. Take a taxi here.

Popov IslandISLAND

(Остров Попова GOOGLE MAP )

Just beyond Russky Island, Popov Island is better regarded for its beaches and filled with many guesthouses and dachas. You’ll probably need to stay overnight if you head out here, as there is only one boat per day (R100, 1½ hours), departing in the early evening from Vladivostok’s Wharf No 1 (1-й Причал).

2Activities

The Sportivnaya Harbour (Спортивная гавань MAP GOOGLE MAP ) has a popular beach plus beer and shashlyk stands. You can hire paddle boats and rowboats here, and there's an amusement park just off the waterfront. Much of the water facing Vladivostok is quite polluted, but it gets cleaner as you go north. Sunbathers can get on a northbound elektrichka and hop off at any beach that looks good – try Sedanka, where there are a few resorts with services. You’ll find even better swimming on Popov Island or Russky Island.

Bridges of VladivostokCRUISE

(Мосты Владивостока MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-999 590; Wharf 30, Okeansky pr; tickets R700-1000)

This recommended outfit runs several daily cruises around the bays of Vladivostok. Departures at noon, 1pm and 2pm do an hour-long Bridges of Vladivostok tour, while a two-hour Sea Panorama tour leaves at 4.30pm, followed by a sunset cruise between 6.30pm and 8.30pm. All tours start and finish at Wharf 30.

Lotos CoTOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-308 025; www.lotosco.ru; office 303, ul Dalzavodskaya 1; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri)

Offers a comprehensive assortment of tours, including visits to Russky Island, Popov Island and nature trips to the Primorsky Territory (waterfall visits, river rafting). One unique tour available is a three-hour bus tour of the new campus of the Far East Federal University on Russky Island, which is not possible to do on your own.

TTours

Lucky TourTOURS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-025 070; www.luckytour.com; ul Moskovskaya 1; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri)

Lucky Tour has over 20 years' experience leading tours in the Primorsky region, and its guides know Vladivostok backwards. There are dozens of city tours designed for all types of travellers and interests. English is spoken.

Vladivostok Digger ClubTOURS

(Владивостокский диггер-клуб (ВДК) MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-552 086; www.vladdig.org; office 303, ul Admirala Fokina 29a)

This passionate outfit of fortress enthusiasts leads hour-long to full-day tours of Fort No 7, plus other forts, batteries and the tunnels that link them (some up to 3.5km long).

DalintouristTOURS

(Дальинтурист MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-410 903; www.dalintourist.ru; ul Admirala Fokina 8a; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)

Runs professional tours of the entire Primorsky region and can arrange English-speaking guides for Vladivostok city tours and beyond.

zFestivals & Events

V-RoxMUSIC

(www.vrox.org/en; hmid-Aug)

The brainchild of local rock star Ilya Lagutenko of the famous Russian band Mumiy Troll, this massive rock festival is the biggest musical event in the Russian Far East. Held in mid-August, the four-day fest features some 70 different concerts around town (including in open-air venues), with performers from all over the world.

Pacific Meridian Film FestivalFILM

(Меридианы Тихого GOOGLE MAP ; www.pacificmeridianfest.ru; hSep)

One of Russia's most important film festivals, the Pacific Meridian has been held in Vladivostok every year since 2003. Screenings take place at the Gorky Theatre in the centre of town, and for a week in early September the city overflows with Russian movie stars.

4Sleeping

oIzba HostelHOSTEL$

(Хостел Изба MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-908 508; www.izba-hostel.ru; ul Mordovtseva 3; dm R550-950, d from R2500; W)

It's quite a leap to believe you're in a 'traditional Russian hostel' given Izba's location in a thoroughly Soviet tower block, but the charming staff at this brand-new place make an impressive effort to help you. With lots of wood and matryoshka patterns throughout, there's a great kitchen, a comfortable common area and spotless bathrooms. The location is also excellent.

The entrance is actually up a well-signed staircase on the ul Aleutskaya side of the building.

Gallery & More GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-914-325 5060; www.galleryandmore.ru; ul Admirala Fokina 4b; dm R700, r from R1900; W)

Enjoying a great location on the Arbat, this quirky and well-designed place combines an art gallery, cafe and small hostel. There's just one dorm with six beds, and several private rooms that are all extremely minimalist but rather funky and share bathrooms.

Mattress, Sailor & Albatross HostelHOSTEL$

(Хостел «Матрас, Матрос и Альбатрос» MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8-914-661 3836; www.mattresshostel.ru; ul Svetlanskaya 33/5; dm/s/d from R600/1300/2800; W)

OK, so the name sounds much better in Russian, but this quirky place is a real winner for its superb location (in the trendy GUM courtyard, which is filled with bars, cafes and restaurants), its friendly staff and its new private rooms upstairs. The downside is the small kitchen and lack of hang-out space – you'll have to go outside.

Vlad Marine InnHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-080 280; www.vlad-marine.ru; ul Posetskaya 53; dm R700, d with/without private bathroom R2100/1700; W)

In a cutely painted clapboard building on a hill in the centre of town, this inviting hostel has just five rooms, each with polished wood floors and ample natural light. Dorm beds have small individual flat-screen TVs, and the three doubles are pretty decent for the price. There's a basic kitchen for guests to use, but otherwise no food.

Optimum HostelHOSTEL$

(Barbados Hostel; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-729 111, 8-914-702 9111; www.hostel-optimum.ru; ul Aleutskaya 17; dm R600-800, d/tr R2200/2800; aW)

Set in a grand eight-storey 1930s building topped with statues and in a perfect central location, Optimum Hostel offers wood-floored dorm rooms, free laundry, English-speaking staff and a guest kitchen. Ring the 'Optimum' buzzer. Out of hours, go round the left to Barbados Hostel, in the same building, which is run by the same people and has a reception desk.

Do note that Barbados Hostel only has dorms, while Optimum also has private rooms, although they all share bathrooms. There's no air-con in Barbados.

TeploHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-909 555; www.teplo-hotel.ru; ul Posetskaya 16; r from R2500; aW)

Teplo brings a dash of style to Vlad's lodging options with a lounge-like lobby (with sofas and table football), and a white-brick corridor leading back to the small but appealing rooms. Each is equipped with TV, fridge and half bath (shower and sink only). There's free laundry and a guest kitchen, and the location on a quiet but central street is excellent.

Hotel MoryakHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Моряк MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %423-249 9499; www.hotelm.ru; ul Posetskaya 38; s/d from R2500/2700; aW)

This grey-brick yet cheerful place has an endearing lobby with a stuffed sailor, the hotel namesake. The rooms are compact with thin walls (and mattresses) and tiny bathrooms. Threadbare ekonom rooms are quite worn, but overall they're a good deal given the hotel's central location.

Azimut HotelHOTEL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-413 500; www.azimuthotels.com; ul Naberezhnaya 10; s/d from R6600/8250; aW)

Formerly the Soviet-era Hotel Vladivostok, the Azimut group completely renovated this impressive hilltop property in 2015 and in doing so has led the charge to redevelop Vlad's rather unappealing beachfront. The vibe is sleek and stylish, with a fun approach to running a giant hotel. Highlights include an excellent restaurant, quiet rooms, professional staff and wonderful sea views.

Hotel PrimoryeHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Приморье MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %423-241 3040; www.hotelprimorye.ru; ul Posetskaya 20; s/d incl breakfast from R4900/5100; iW)

Primorye has decent rooms with playful details such as funny artwork, though the design is rather dated and the beds are rockhard. The best rooms are two-room suites with views of the warships in Golden Horn Bay. An enticing bakery and cafe adjoins the lobby, while there's also an excellent pizzeria next door.

Hotel VersaillesHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Версаль MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-264 201; www.hotel-versailles.ru; ul Svetlanskaya 10; s/d incl breakfast R6300/7300; W)

The Versailles does a decent job of recapturing the imperial grace of a century-old hotel that reopened in the ’90s, despite some bizarre decorative pairings in the lobby (think ’70s lounge seats and tsarist-style chandeliers). Quarters are spacious and have some wonderful furniture and lavish bathrooms.

Equator HotelHOTEL$$$

(Гостиница Экватор MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %423-241 1254; www.hotelequator.ru; ul Naberezhnaya 20; s/d from R3500/5500; W)

This old-school Soviet hotel has decent and clean midrange rooms that are fairly spacious but minimally equipped. Book an upper-floor even-numbered room for a sea view. It has an enviably central location overlooking the Sportivnaya Harbour.

5Eating

Vladivostok offers more culinary innovation and variety than anywhere else in Russia east of Moscow, and the dining here is likely to be a highlight of your visit. As a big port, fish and seafood dominate most menus, as do influences from nearby Korea and Japan. It's worth making dinner reservations for smarter places at the weekend.

Ne RidayCAFETERIA$

(Не Рыдай MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Svetlanskaya 10; mains R60-130; h9am-8pm; W)

This delightful cafeteria (whose name bizarrely means 'don't sob') is about as far from your Russian stereotyped stolovaya (canteen) as it's possible to get. With a large range of Russian cooking on offer and a smart, sleek space set in a historic building, it makes for a superb-value lunch spot.

Five O’ClockCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Admirala Folkina 6; snacks R50-200; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; v)

Russians so firmly believe that the British drink afternoon tea at 5pm each day that there's even a cafe named after this spurious assertion. The good news is that this much-loved local haunt on pedestrian ul Admirala Folkina serves muffins, cakes and quiche, all made fresh daily and sold for far less than you'll find elsewhere. Skip the coffee, though.

Clover HouseFAST FOOD$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Semyonovskaya 15; h10am-9pm)

A convenient mall housing a well-stocked supermarket with a deli, and a top-floor food court with incredible views.

RepublicCAFETERIA$

(Республика MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Aleutskaya 2; meals R200-350; h9am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun; v)

This very pleasant and good value stolovaya draws a crowd of regulars with its tasty Russian dishes, home brew and funky interior. There's an on-site bar, and it makes a good alternative to eating in the station if you're waiting for a train.

oKvartira 30EUROPEAN$$

(Квартира 30 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8904 627 4483; ul Pologaya 65b; mains R400-600; hnoon-midnight; Wv)

This fantastic treasure is hidden away in an extremely unlikely location amid a hilltop housing estate. Run by the charming Olga Gurskaya, who also uses the space to run cookery classes, Kvartira 30 offers some of the most interesting and innovative Russian food in the city: the aubergines marinated in lemon juice and chilli with toasted rye bread were a revelation.

With only five tables, it's a good idea to reserve for the evenings. Don't miss the zefir dessert, a kind of local marshmallow made from blueberries. To find it, it's best to start from Okeansky pr, where the entrance to the street is just a staircase through some trees that becomes a residential street. Head up the road and look for the yellow neoclassical building on the left: the restaurant is to the left-hand side of that.

oStudioINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-552 222; www.cafe-studio.ru; ul Svetlanskaya 18a; mains R300-900; h24hr; Wv)

In a courtyard in the heart of Vladivostok is this smart and appealing two-floor restaurant and lounge bar that attracts a young, well-heeled and in-the-know crowd. There's an enormous picture menu with everything from breakfasts and business lunches to seafood and pizzas; the elaborately gorgeous upstairs bar has to be seen to be believed.

oZumaASIAN$$

(Зума MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-222 666; ul Fontannaya 2; mains R300-1400; h11am-2am Sun-Thu; Wv)

A stylish welcoming place, this two-floor restaurant-lounge is decked out in an elaborate but classy Angkor Wat theme, replete with a massive black granite bar perfect for lingering with drinks. The real attraction here is the mouthwatering pan-Asian cooking (sushi, dumplings, stir-fries), plus creative salads, rack of lamb and a fabulous seafood selection.

oPyongyangNORTH KOREAN$$

(Пхеньян GOOGLE MAP ; ul Verkhneportovaya 68b; mains R350-750; hnoon-midnight; v)

Staffed by waitresses from nearby North Korea who periodically break out into karaoke, this unique establishment is just strange enough to be considered a must-visit. You can pick from a photo menu of excellent food such as bibimbap (rice mixed with fried egg, sliced meat and other ingredients) and spicy fried pork with kimchi.

oFood Like FoodRUSSIAN$$

(Еда как еда MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-240 4674; ul Admirala Fokina 16; mains R400-1000; h11am-midnight, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)

While it might sound like a fast-food joint, this charming little white-painted basement restaurant is anything but. The menu takes in classical Russian cooking, but presents dishes with an original twist, such as aubergines in oyster sauce or salmon in green pea purée. Staff are exceptionally engaged and knowledgeable, and cute Russian knick-knacks adorn the walls.

Pizza MPIZZA$$

(Пицца М MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-413 430; ul Posetskaya 20; pizzas R300-650; h24hr; Wv)

Classier than its name might suggest, the M is one of Vlad’s coolest hang-outs, with two unique rooms setting their style sights higher than the humble slice. The pizzas are available as thin or thick crust and are delicious. Delivery is also available.

Mauro GianvanniPIZZA$$

(Мауро Джанванни MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-220 782; www.mauro-gianvanni.ru; ul Aleutskaya 21; mains R220-700; hnoon-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; v)

This little Italian-run brick-oven pizzeria has a modern interior and snappy service. The dozen-plus pizzas are crispy and arguably some of the best east of the Urals.

SupraGEORGIAN$$

(Супра MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-277 722; www.supravl.ru; ul Admirala Fokina 1b; mains R250-500; hnoon-midnight; v)

This bustling but charming spot has one of the best locations in town, meaning that it's always busy and you may well have to wait for a table. The traditionally clad staff work quickly in serving the various elements of a Georgian supra (feast) though, while the picture menu is huge and the realisation generally excellent.

Moloko & MyodINTERNATIONAL$$

(Молоко и Мёд MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Sukhanova 6a; mains R400-750; h10am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; Wv)

A trendy spot with a popular street-side terrace, 'Milk & Honey' has fabulous daily brunch offerings, great coffee, dangerously good cocktails and a menu that includes salade niçoise, assorted tapas and seafood risotto. Blankets warm terrace dwellers on chilly evenings.

Brothers Bar & GrillINTERNATIONAL$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-577 070; ul Bestuzheva 32; mains R400-1500; W)

This rather stylish steak and grill house is worth seeking out for its excellent food, English menu and convivial staff. There's a lovely summer terrace and top-notch cocktail bar in the backyard, while the main dining room is distinctly dark and moody. There's an impressive selection of steaks, seafood, pizza and even a whisky-glazed burger to delight in.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oMoonshineCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Svetlanskaya 1/2; h6pm-2am; W)

This exceptionally well-stocked and stylish place right by the seafront offers cocktails and a small but tantalising bar menu as well as wine by the glass. There's lots of exposed brickwork, distressed industrial fittings and rather love-it-or-hate-it lighting, but this is definitely a great spot to mix with Vladivostok's burgeoning creative classes.

oOld FashionedCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4322-791 079; ul Petra Velikogo 4; hnoon-midnight, until 2am Fri & Sat; W)

This fabulous cocktail lounge is a low-lit and beautifully set-out space, with a gorgeous wooden bar and gloriously comfortable sofas and chairs to lounge in. There's a meaty restaurant attached, where diners eat inside a glass atrium outside – but it's by far best used as a place to nurse wonderful cocktails from the large list.

RaCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; ul Nabarezhnaya 76; cover varies; h1pm-5am)

Where the cool kids can be found hanging out on the seafront boardwalk on summer evenings, this black-painted brick warehouse is a simple bar with a pool table facing the beach during the day. Come nightfall the space becomes the setting for all kinds of parties, including techno, house and gay nights.

Stary KapitanPUB

(Старыий Капитан GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-771 077; www.oldcaptainpub.ru; Leitenanta Shmidta 17a; hnoon-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)

Facing the marina, the Old Captain has an excellent selection of draft beers, such as German Weihenstephan. The delectable seafood dishes (pan-seared tiger prawns and scallops) and appetisers (salted herring with black bread toast) go nicely with the brews.

Reserve on weekends, when there's live music.

Mumiy TrollBAR

(Мумий Тролль MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vvo.mumiytrollbar.com; ul Pogranichnaya 6; h24hr)

A fun and lively bar that draws a mix of locals and expats, rock-loving Mumiy Troll – set up by the nationally famous local band of the same name – has live acts most nights (from 10pm). There's rarely a cover, but guests must be 21 to enter.

Cuckoo ClubCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cuckooclub.ru; Okeansky pr 1a; cover R500-800; h10pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 6am Fri & Sat)

One of Vladivostok’s fancier clubs, the dance floor here seethes at weekends and there's a lovely outdoor area that's the place to be seen in the summer months. Dress to impress to hurdle face control.

3Entertainment

Mariinsky Theatre Primorsky StageCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Приморская сцена Мариинского театра GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-406 060; https://prim.mariinsky.ru; ul Fastovskaya 20; tickets R300-4000)

This impressive new theatre is the Far Eastern stage of the venerable Mariinsky Theatre in St Petersburg and is the best place to see serious classical concerts, ballet and opera in the Russian Far East. The modern glass building contains both a big and small stage, as well as an outdoor summer stage.

Zabriskie PointLIVE MUSIC

(Забриски Пойнт MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-215 715; ul Naberezhnaya 9a; cover R500-1000; h9pm-5am Tue-Sun)

Zabriskie is Vladivostok’s main rock and jazz club, drawing an older crowd to view live music acts. It doubles as a nightclub with dancing after performances are finished for the night. There's great sound and plenty of character.

Philharmonic HallCLASSICAL MUSIC

(Филармония MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4232-264 022; www.primfil.ru; ul Svetlanskaya 15)

Hosts classical music and jazz performances.

Stadium DinamoSPECTATOR SPORT

(Стадион Динамо MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Pogranichnaya; tickets R200-400)

The popular local football team, Luch-Energiya, plays games at this bayside stadium from April to November.

7Shopping

GUMGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

(ГУМ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Svetlanskaya 35; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun)

This once deeply Soviet department store has recently undergone full refurbishment and is now Vladivostok's best place to shop. It's also housed in the Far East’s most elegant art-deco building. You'll find traditional souvenirs on the 1st floor, as well as a range of restaurants, cafes and bars in its popular courtyard.

Flotsky UnivermagSPORTS & OUTDOORS

(Флотский универмаг MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Svetlanskaya 11; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)

For unusual souvenir turf, follow the navy – this outfitter has those cute blue-and-white-striped navy undershirts and other navy and military gear, as well as useful travel gear such as torches, knives, maps and toothpaste. There are also all kinds of kitschy pro-Putin T-shirts.

8Information

Currency-exchange desks and ATMs are all over town; you'll never have to worry about finding either.

City Hospital No 1 (Городская клиническая Больница №1 GOOGLE MAP ; %423-245 2682; ul Sadovaya 22)

Post Office (Почта GOOGLE MAP ; ul Aleutskaya; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) Offers postal services opposite the train station.

Primorsky Tourist Information Centre (Туристско-информационный центр Приморского края MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %423-240 7120; Hyundai Hotel, ul Semyonovskaya 29; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Tucked inside the Hyundai Hotel in the centre of the city.

Tourist Information Desks At the airport and the train station.

www.tour.primorsky.ru Has information about the entire Primorsky Territory.

www.vladivostok-city.com Useful for pretrip city planning.

8Getting There & Away

Vladivostok is one of the Russian Far East's biggest transport hubs. In addition to serving as the terminus of the Trans-Siberian Railway, it has a large number of national and international flights, making getting here easy from almost anywhere in Russia and neighbouring countries.

Air

Vladivostok has an excellent modern airport (Международный аэропорт Владивосток GOOGLE MAP ; %423-230 6909; www.vvo.aero; Artyom) located in Artyom (50km from the centre), with convenient if irregular, rail access to the city.

Boat

Vladivostok's ferry services depart from the Marine Terminal (Морской вокзал MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Okeansky pr) in the centre of town. There is a weekly Storm Marine ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %423-230 2704; www.parom.su; office 124, Marine Terminal; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) passenger-only ferry to Donghae in South Korea (from US$205 one way, 20 hours), which continues to Sakaiminato in Japan (from US$265 one way, 43 hours). It leaves Vladivostok at 2pm every Wednesday.

There is also a new weekly ferry, the Man Gyong Bong, to Rajin in North Korea run by InvestStroyTrest (ИнвестСтройТрест MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %423-249 6560; www.rajin-investstroytrest.ru; Marine Port). This passenger and cargo ferry leaves Vladivostok each Friday at 8pm and returns to Vladivostok on Thursday at 7am (from R5300, eight hours). However, you will need a visa for North Korea to take this service.

Bus

Buses to Suífēnhé, the border town with China, depart at 6.20am (R2850, four hours, Monday to Saturday) from the bus station (автовокзал GOOGLE MAP ; ul Russkaya), 3km north of the centre. There are no buses all the way to Harbin, but you can pick up transport on the other side of the border. There are also frequent departures for other destinations in the region, though do be aware that some southbound destinations may be off limits to foreigners without a permit.

Train

Vladivostok's magnificent art nouveau train station (ЖД вокзал Владивосток GOOGLE MAP ; pl Voksalnaya; h24hr) is located right in the centre of the city by the waterfront, and marks the terminus of the main Trans-Siberian railway line.

Save money by avoiding the No 1 Rossiya train to Moscow, which is massively overpriced due to its perceived prestige (in fact it's fairly similar to less excitingly named and numbered trains).

The Harbin train is a headache, with many stops and a long border check. Departures are early evening on Mondays and Thursdays, but the first night you only go as far as Ussuriysk, where they detach your car from the 351. You stay overnight in Ussuriysk and depart the next day for the border and Harbin. It’s much quicker and easier to take a flight to Harbin. If you’re headed to Beijing by train, you’ll need to go to Harbin first and transfer there.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

A speedy rail link, the plush Aeroexpress (50 minutes, R230) connects Vladivostok's train station with the airport. However, with just five trains daily, you'll be lucky if there's one leaving at a convenient time for your flight.

Buses and marshrutka 107 (R100 to R150) also connect the train station and airport, departing at least hourly throughout the day.

A taxi booth in the arrivals area charges R1500 for trips to the centre (45 minutes to one hour), and is the easiest way to connect to the city. A taxi from the city to the airport is around R1000.

Local Transport

Much of Vladivostok's relatively compact centre can be covered on foot as long as you don't mind lots of steep ascents and descents.

Alternatively, buses are your best bet to get around. From in front of the train station, buses 23, 31 and 49 run north on ul Aleutskaya then swing east onto ul Svetlanskaya to the head of the bay. Bus 15 heads to the Primorsky Aquarium from the ul Aksakovskaya bus stop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ).

For trips of more than 5km, you’ll save money ordering a taxi (most easily done using the apps Yandex Taxi or Taxi Maxim).

WORTH A TRIP

THE NATURE RESERVES OF PRIMORSKY TERRITORY

Vladivostok travel agents run a variety of city and regional tours, but they can be pricey when it comes to longer trips outside the city due to the large distances in Primorsky Territory.

Heading outside Vladivostok, the most interesting tour is probably to Sikhote-Alin Nature Reserve (Сихотэ-Алинский заповедник GOOGLE MAP ; %423-241 0033; http://russia.wcs.org), home to the World Conservation Society's Amur tiger project and a wonderfully wild slice of wilderness that's well worth taking the time to visit. Another option is visiting Gaivoron (Зоологический центр Биолого-почвенного института GOOGLE MAP ; %42352-74 249; Gaivoron), 235km north of Vladivostok, where you can actually see a couple of Amur tigers held in captivity at the Russian Academy of Sciences biological research reserve. A third destination is the Land of the Leopard National Park (Национальный Парк Земля Леопарда GOOGLE MAP ; %423-201 2683; www.leopard-land.ru; Khasanskaya 6a, Barabash), an impressive reserve created in 2012 for the critically endangered Amur leopard. While the Amur leopard's rareness means you definitely won't see one in the wild, the landscape is gorgeous and your visit will help fund this critically important effort to save this gorgeous animal. Reckon on US$1200 for a six-day, five-night visit to any of the reserves organised by a Vladivostok travel agency and be aware that there are limited options to reduce either the cost or the time frame of such a trip.

Eastern Bam

The eastern half of the Baikal-Amur Mainline (Baikalo-Amurskaya Magistral; BAM), covering 2400km from Khani to Sovetskaya Gavan, is perhaps not as visually stimulating as the more mountainous western half, but is still mesmerising in its remoteness and sheer stubborn insistence on existing against all the odds.

The highlights of the eastern BAM are the BAM Museum in the unofficial BAM capital, Tynda, and the pastel-coloured pseudotsarist architecture of Komsomolsk-na-Amure, where you can also ski, visit Nanai villages or take a Gulag tour. There’s not much between Tynda and Komsomolsk besides often lifeless trees, their roots severed by cruel permafrost below, and a slew of rather uninspired Soviet towns created to finish the railroad. Disembark only if you’re searching for ghost towns or gold (prospecting is rife in this region). However, if you do get off, prepare to wait for up to a day for the next train.

A few links cut down to the Trans-Siberian. From Tynda, you can cut down to Skovorodino on the so-called Little BAM, built long before the BAM proper with slave labour in the 1930s. Other links south are at Novy Urgal and Komsomolsk, which both connect to Khabarovsk. The end of the line comes near Vanino, where you can catch a ferry across the Strait of Tartary to Sakhalin Island.

Tynda Тында

%41656 / Pop 35,500 / Time Moscow +6hr

The king of the BAM, Tynda is a nondescript town flanked by low-lying pine-covered hills. Many stop here, as it’s a hub for trains between Severobaikalsk, Komsomolsk-na-Amure and, on the Little BAM, Blagoveshchensk to the south, or, on the in-progress AYaM (Amuro-Yakutskaya Mainline), Neryungri and Tommot to the north.

Don’t expect quaint. Tynda’s fully Soviet – there was nothing but a few shacks before BAM centralised its efforts here in 1974. Liven up your visit by arriving during a festival. The Bakaldin Festival rotates between several nearby Evenki villages in late May or early June, with traditional song, dance, reindeer rides and plenty of reindeer shashlyki and other native delicacies. March sees the Reindeer Hunter and Herder Festival.

1Sights & Activities

Besides the plucky BAM Museum, about the only other thing worth checking out in Tynda is the dramatic sledgehammer-wielding BAM Builders Monument (Памятник строителям БАМа GOOGLE MAP ; ul Mokhortova) on ul Mokhortova, just south of central ul Krasnaya Presnaya, near its eastern end.

BAM MuseumMUSEUM

(Музей истории Байкало-Амурской магистрали GOOGLE MAP ; http://muzbam.amur.muzkult.ru; ul Sportivnaya 22; R150; h10am-2pm & 3-6pm Tue-Fri, to 7pm Sat)

Tynda’s pride and joy has four rooms of BAM relics and photos – sadly all devoid of English labelling – as well as exhibits on native Evenki culture, WWII, local art and regional wildlife. Don't miss the 9m-long 'barrel of Diogenes' parked in the yard, where many BAM workers lived during the railroad's construction. After crossing the pedestrian bridge from the train station, take the first left, continue 200m and turn right up Sportivnaya, where you'll soon see it on your left.

One section covers the Little BAM and the Gulag prisoners who built it in the 1930s. They lived (and died) in 24 BAM labour camps between Tynda and Bamovskaya, and some moving photos chronicle the extreme hardships these prisoners endured. Two rooms are dedicated to the big BAM, sections of which were built in the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s before Stalin died and the project was mothballed. A final display covers the period between its relaunch in 1974 and final completion in 1984.

Alexey PodpruginTOURS

(%8-985-205 0365; bamland@mail.ru)

Feisty adventurer Alexey Podprugin knows the wilderness surrounding Tynda well and can arrange kayaking, hiking and cross-country skiing trips. He doesn't speak English, so email him if you don't speak Russian.

4Sleeping & Eating

Resting RoomsHOSTEL$

(Комнаты отдыха GOOGLE MAP ; %41656-73 297; train station, Zarechnaya ul; bed per 6/12/24hr from R650/990/1650)

Comfy and clean dorm rooms in the train station. Shower available for nonguests (R150).

Hotel YunostHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Юность GOOGLE MAP ; %41656-43 534; ul Krasnaya Presnaya 49; s/d from R3500/4000, s/d with shared bathroom R2000/3000; W)

Faded but fine option in centre; Dervla Murphy recuperated here while writing Through Siberia by Accident. You can get wi-fi literally on one sofa in the lobby: it's free, but you might need a while to do anything. Staff don't speak English and regard foreigners with a pleasing amount of suspicion, which seems correct after such a long journey.

Piv Bar TeremokPIZZA$$

(Пив Бар Теремок GOOGLE MAP ; ul Krasnaya Presnaya 59a; mains R300-600; hnoon-midnight; W)

Serves up palatable pizzas, Drakon draft beer (from Khabarovsk) and has seating on an open-sided veranda. To find it, turn left at the eastern end of Krasnaya Presnaya, and walk up 50m.

8Information

The train station has an ATM and left-luggage office (R140).

8Getting There & Away

The train station (ЖД вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; Zarechnaya ul) – the city’s most striking landmark – is across the Tynda River. A pedestrian bridge leads 1km north to ul Krasnaya Presnaya.

Train 75 heads via the BAM to Moscow (kupe/platskartny R20,800/10,000, five days) on even-numbered days, stopping in Severobaikalsk (kupe/platskartny R4600/2900, 27 hours), while trains 77, 97 and the 75 travelling in the other direction head to Novosibirsk (kupe/platskartny R11,600/6700, 67 hours), taking the Little BAM south on odd-numbered days to connect with the Trans-Siberian line at Skovorodino.

There are several daily departures to Neryungri, including the 325 (from R576, 5½ hours). Train 364 trundles to Komsomolsk daily (kupe/platskartny R5800/3000, 36 hours), and 325 heads daily to Khabarovsk at 2am via Skovorodino (kupe/platskartny R5500/3000, 28 hours).

Komsomolsk-na-Amure Комсомольск-на-Амуре

%4217 / Pop 251,000 / Time Moscow +7hr

After days of taiga and grey Soviet towns, Komsomolsk-na-Amure comes as a charming surprise with its attractive Stalin-era centre and pleasant Amur River setting. Built virtually from scratch in the 1930s as a vital cog in the Soviet Union’s military industrial complex, Komsomolsk's name comes from the thousands of Communist Youth League volunteers who built the town alongside Gulag labourers.

Imitating the tsars, Stalin erected elaborate neoclassical buildings in the city centre and then festooned them with stars and statues of model Soviet citizens. Around town, factories sprouted up to produce ships, weapons, electricity and, most famously, Sukhoi (Su) fighter jets in a factory that still works today. Set along a few grand boulevards, the city is worth a night or more if you are getting on or off the BAM.

Komsomolsk-na-Amure

1Sights

1Japanese POW MemorialB4

2Municipal Museum of Regional StudiesB3

3Nauka MosaicA2

4WWII MemorialA4

5WWII MosaicB3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Nata TourA2

7River CruisesA4

4Sleeping

8BiznestsentrB4

9Hotel VoskhodA2

10Resting RoomsA1

5Eating

11BistroB2

12KafemaB2

13Shinok PervachA4

1Sights & Activities

Just east of the river terminal is a beach, which is well attended on warm summer days.

Komsomolsk has a wealth of wonderful murals adorning the sides of apartment blocks and factories. Most were the creation of Khabarovsk-based artist Nikolai Dolbilkin, who lived here in the 1950s and ’60s. Among the best are the double-triptych WWII mosaic ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr pr Mira & alleya Truda) in the central grey dom kultura building near Sudostroitel Park (now inside a children's play space) and the nauka (science) mosaic ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pr Lenina) at the Polytechnical Institute, a block east of Hotel Voskhod.

River CruisesBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; River Terminal; R300)

On summer weekends, you can hop aboard 90-minute cruises along the Amur River. Boats depart at 3pm Saturday and Sunday as well as 7pm Thursday and Saturday. Buy tickets on board.

Municipal Museum of Regional StudiesMUSEUM

(Городской краеведческий музей MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kmsgkm.ru; cnr alleya Truda & ul Kirova; R250; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun)

This proud town museum has several rooms of photos and artefacts showing how Komsomolsk rose from a pioneer camp in 1932 to an industrial Soviet city. It also contains some old fish-skin jackets and other Nanai artefacts. It's expensive for the sure-to-be-quick visit, even more so as there's no labelling in English.

WWII MemorialMEMORIAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Dzherzhinskogo)

Just northwest of the river terminal is the impressive WWII memorial, which features stoic faces chipped from stone, with nearby pillars marking the years of WWII.

Japanese POW MemorialMONUMENT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Ordzhonikidze)

This small monument is dedicated to the memory of the Japanese prisoners of war who were forced to work building the BAM after WWII.

TTours

Nata TourTOURS

(Ната-Тур MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %Mikhail 8-914-189 1784, Vladimir 8-914-177 3724; komsomolsknata@mail.ru; office 110, ul Vasyanina 12; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri)

These local experts arrange three- to five-hour ‘Stalin tours’ of the city's communist sites (including a Gulag camp) from R1300 per person; adventure tours involving fishing, rafting or skiing; and day trips and/or homestays at Verkhnyaya Ekon. Mikhail speaks English.

Other tours include white-water rafting trips that involve a train ride to Novy Urgal on the BAM. Slower one- to several-day floats can be done closer to Komsomolsk. Tours of the Yury Gagarin Aircraft Factory, where the Su jets are built, can also be arranged.

4Sleeping

A pleasant alternative to a hotel is arranging a homestay through Nata Tour (R1000 per person including breakfast).

Resting RoomsHOSTEL$

(Комнаты отдыха MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4217-284 193; train station, pr Pervostroiteley; 12/24hr dm from R720/1100, s 12/24hr without bathroom R1040/1830)

A clean and basic option inside the train station if you need a break from sleeping on trains.

oBiznestsentrHOTEL$$

(Гостиничный комплекс Бизнес-центр MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4217-521 522; bc@etc.kna.ru; ul Dzerzhinskogo 3; s/d incl breakfast from R2000/2500; aW)

Komsomolsk’s most modern business-oriented hotel has bright, comfortably furnished rooms with modern bathrooms (including space-shuttle-like shower capsules). English-speaking receptionists are on hand too.

Hotel VoskhodHOTEL$$

(Гостиница Восход MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4217-535 131; www.hotel-voskhod.com; pr Pervostroiteley 31; s/d from R2200/2700; W)

A 10-minute walk from the train station, this eight-storey Soviet-era beast has decently renovated rooms and surprisingly friendly staff.

5Eating

In the summer, you can feast on shashlyk (R200) and cold drinks along the riverfront overlooking the beach.

KafemaCAFE$

(Кафема MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kafema.ru; Okyabrsky pr 39; pastries from R100; h10am-8pm; W)

This place does the best coffee in town, and the passionate, well-trained baristas will even sell you some of their delicious fresh beans to take with you on your travels. Cakes, pastries and other snacks are available.

BistroRUSSIAN$

(Бистро MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ul Lenina 19; mains R80-160; h9am-10pm)

Beside pl Lenina, this clean modern stolovaya serves tasty, affordable staples: baked dishes, roast meats and the usual beet or potato salads are all on offer.

Shinok PervachUKRAINIAN$$

(Шинок Первач MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.shinok-pervach.ru; ul Dzherzhinskogo 34; mains R300-900; hnoon-3am; W)

A local institution, Shinok Pervach is considered by locals to be the best restaurant in town. It serves up tasty grilled fish, roast meats and zingy salads (try the beetroot, walnut and prune for its subtle spice). The chunky wooden tables and circular dining room festooned maypole-style with ribbons bestow a certain peasant chic to the place.

Despite its address, it's actually located just off pr Internatsionalny.

WORTH A TRIP

VERKHNAYA EKON ВЕРХНЯЯ ЭКОНЬ

Tucked between the Amur River and bear-inhabited hills, this village of 500 (of which half are Nanai) makes a fun day trip from Komsomolsk across the river. Its school has a small Nanai Museum with old shaman costumes and plenty of Nanai traditional pieces. It's possible to hike up the mountain.Three daily buses come from Komsomolsk (R50, one hour) but if you arrange for a taxi you can visit an eerie, unfinished 800m-long BAM tunnel at nearby Pivan village (north of the Amur Bridge), including pieces abandoned after WWII broke out.

8Getting There & Away

Despite its vast distance from everywhere, Komsomolsk has surprisingly good transport connections by rail, road, river and air to its distant neighbours elsewhere in the Far East.

Air

Komsomolsk-na-Amur's small airport (Аэропорт Хурба GOOGLE MAP ) has flights on Aurora to Vladivostok each Wednesday and Friday (R3600, two hours).

Boat

For a DIY adventure, head down the Amur River by hydrofoil to Nikolayevsk-na-Amure (from R4350, 11 hours). The boat departs three days a week from the river terminal (Речной вокзал GOOGLE MAP ) (currently on Monday, Wednesday and Friday mornings).

Bus

Local and long-distance buses leave from the bus station (автостанция GOOGLE MAP ; %4217-542 554; h6am-10.30pm) near the river. Buses bound for Khabarovsk (from R640, six hours) leave every 90 minutes or so from 7am.

Train

From Komsomolsk’s pink train station (ЖД вокзал GOOGLE MAP ; pr Pervostroiteley), the excruciatingly slow 351 leaves daily for Vladivostok (kupe/platskartny R5500/2600, 25 hours). There are also two daily services (trains 351 and 667) to Khabarovsk (kupe/platskartny from R2300/1300, 10 hours).

On the BAM, the daily 363 heads west to Tynda (kupe/platskartny R5800/3000, 38 hours); to reach Severobaikalsk, change in Tynda. The daily train 351 heads east to Vanino (kupe/platskartny R2200/1400, 13 hours). The BAM’s first/last stop, ‘Sovetskaya Gavan-Sortirovka’, 15 minutes east of Vanino, is not to be confused with the city of Sovetsakaya Gavan, an hour away from Vanino by bus.

8Getting Around

Within the city, handy tram 2 runs from the train station along ul Lenina and pr Mira to the river terminal (R20).

FROM BAM TO SAKHALIN

BAM completists will end up in the grey Soviet port town of Vanino (actually the BAM ends 15 minutes beyond Vanino, in Sovetskaya Gavan-Sortirovka). From Vanino, there is a Sakhalin Shipping Company (SASCO; GOOGLE MAP ; %42433-66 133, 42433-66 208; www.sasco.ru; ul Pobedy 18a, Kholmsk) ferry around three times a week leaving at varying times of day to Kholmsk on Sakhalin Island (tickets R1950 to R4200 depending on class, 18 hours). Do be aware that the two ferries working this route are very old, cramped and break down frequently. Despite this, your biggest obstacle is the unpredictable and fast-changing weather in the Strait of Tartary. Call the ticket office (SASCO; GOOGLE MAP ; %42137-74 088; www.sasco.ru; Vanino) in Vanino the day before to reserve a seat and to check if the next day’s ship is likely to sail, as it's far nicer to be stuck in Komsomolsk-na-Amure than Vanino.