t Pretty buildings line the wide streets of Trapani’s old town
t Pretty buildings line the wide streets of Trapani’s old town
The pretty, coastal town of Trapani was built on a narrow, curved promontory (hence the name, which derives from the Greek word drepanon, or sickle) that juts out into the sea opposite the Egadi Islands. In ancient times Trapani was the port town for Erice. It flourished under the Carthaginians and languished under the Vandals, Byzantines and Saracens. The economy has always been linked to the sea and reached its peak in the 1600s and 1700s with shipyards and tuna fishing. The town now extends beyond the promontory to the foot of Monte San Giuliano and the edge of the salt marshes.
One of the first places to start in Trapani is at the Museo Pepoli. The museum opened in 1906 in the former Carmelite monastery, thanks to Count Agostino Pepoli, who donated his private collection. A broad polychrome marble staircase leads to the first floor, which has archaeological finds, 12th–18th century Sicilian painting, jewellery and ceramics on display. The art produced in Trapani itself is interesting and worth viewing: wooden 16th-century angels, an 18th-century coral and alabaster nativity scene, jewellery, clocks with painted dials, tapestries with coral and majolica from Santa Maria delle Grazie.
Via Garibaldi leads to the old town area of Trapani. It begins in Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the heart of the town, with Palazzo d’Ali, now the Town Hall. The street is lined with 18th-century patrician residences such as Palazzo Riccio di Morana and Palazzo Fardella Fontana. Almost directly opposite the 1621 Baroque façade of Santa Maria d’Itria are the steps leading to San Domenico, built in the 14th century and restructured in the 18th century. Inside the church is the sarcophagus of Manfred, natural son of Frederick II.
The main street in the old town, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is lined with late Baroque buildings and San Lorenzo Cathedral, which has a fine portico. The main features of the interior are the painted ceiling, stucco decoration and, in the right-hand altar, a Crucifixion attributed to Van Dyck.
Santuario di Maria Santissima Annunziata, also known as the Madonna di Trapani, is a church built by the Carmelite fathers in 1224. The portal and part of the rose window are the only original elements remaining, as the rest of the church is Baroque, thanks to restoration effected in 1714. Inside you will find the Cappella dei Pescatori, the Cappella dei Marinai, and the Cappella della Madonna di Trapani with the Madonna and Child by Nino Pisano, one of the most important Gothic sculptures in Sicily.
The Chiesa del Purgatorio is a well known church of Trapani because it houses unusual 18th-century wooden statues with precious silver decoration representing the Stations of the Cross (called Misteri). At 2pm on Good Friday, they are carried through the streets in a 24-hour procession, a ritual dating from the 1700s.
At the tip of the peninsula, the Torre di Ligny (1671) affords a fine view of the city and its port. The tower is now used as an archaeological museum, the Museo di Preistoria, with objects from the Punic Wars and from the shipwrecks that occurred on the ancient trade routes. On display are amphoras that were used to carry wine, dates and garum – a prized fish sauce.
From Trapani to Marsala the coast is lined with salt marshes. The area is now a WWF nature reserve, a unique habitat for migratory birds. The landscape, with its salt marshes and wind-mills (three of which can be visited), is striking. A museum, the Museo del Sale, illustrates the practice of salt extraction.
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⌂ Via Conte Agostino Pepoli 200 § 0923-553 269 # 9am–1:30pm Mon–Sun (to 12:30pm Sun & hols; free first week of the month)
⌂ Via Conte Agostino Pepoli § 0923-539 184 # 7am–noon & 4–7pm daily (summer: to 8pm) ∑ madonnaditrapani.it
⌂ Via San Francesco d’Assisi § 329-707 88 96 (Curia Vescovile) # 7:30am–noon & 4–7pm Mon–Sat, 10am–noon & 4–7pm Sun
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⌂ Torre di Ligny §0923-547 275 # Summer: 10am–12:30pm & 5–7:30pm ¢ In winter
⌂ Via delle Saline, Contrada Nubia, Paceco § WWF Reserve: 320-663 58 18/ 320-657 54 55 # 9:30am–7pm daily ∑ museodelsale.it
life-sized wooden effigies are taken through Trapani on Good Friday.
EXPERIENCE The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
The Stagno and Trapani salt marshes extend along the Sicilian coastline from Trapani to Marsala, and those who visit will be rewarded with an impressive sight. The salt marshes were exploited in antiquity and reached the height of their importance in the 19th century, when salt was exported as far away as Norway. The long periods of sunshine (five or six months a year) and the impermeable nature of the land made these marshes very productive, although activity has declined in the last 20 years. At one time, windmills supplied energy for the Archimedes screws that were used to take water from basin to basin; some of them have now been restored. At Nubia the Museo del Sale (Salt Marsh Museum) is now open, and the Stagnone area is a fully fledged nature reserve. The museum is a great, informative introduction to the practice of salt extraction. The seawater will be protected from pollution, and the age-old tradition of salt extraction will survive.
Experience The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
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STAY For slow travel at its best, agriturismi (working farms and vineyards) offer lodgings that range from informal to rustic chic. Fontana Salsa ⌂ Via Cusenza 78, Trapani ∑ fontanasalsa.it ¡¡¡ Baglio Spano ⌂ Contrada Triglia Scaletta, Marsala ∑ bagliospano.com ¡¡¡ Resort Baglio Soria ⌂ Contrada, Via Soria, Trapani ∑ firriato-baglio-soria-trapani.it ¡¡¡ |
t Marsala Cathedral, lit up as evening falls upon the town
Sicily’s largest wine-producing centre was founded by the colonists from Mozia who survived the destruction of the island by Dionysius of Syracuse in 397 BC. It then became a major Carthaginian city, but in the first Punic War it was conquered by the Romans, who made it their main Mediterranean naval base. The city plan is basically Roman, with other quarters being added by the Arabs who conquered the city in 830 AD and made it a flourishing trade centre.
Piazza della Repubblica, bounded by Palazzo Senatorio and the Cathedral, dedicated to St Thomas of Canterbury, is the heart of the town. The cathedral was founded by the Normans and completed in the 1950s and houses sculptures by the Gaginis and their school. Behind the apse is the Museo degli Arazzi Fiamminghi, which displays eight 16th-century Flemish tapestries depicting Titus’s war against the Hebrews. They were donated by Philip II of Spain to the Archbishop of Messina and later taken to Marsala Cathedral.
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⌂ Chiesa Madre, Via G Garaffa 57 § 0923-711 327 # 9am–1pm, 4–6pm Tue–Sun
The town centre here consists of three linked squares. The main one is Piazza Garibaldi, where you'll find the mostly 16th-century Chiesa Madre and its interesting medieval portal. Inside are stuccoes by Ferraro and Serpotta, and a Madonna by the Gagini School. By the church are the Municipio (Town Hall), the Campanile and the Mannerist Fontana della Ninfa. Nearby is the Chiesa del Purgatorio, its façade filled with statues, and a Neo-Doric theatre, the Teatro Selinus (1873).
At Delia, a short 3.5 km (2 miles) from town, is Santa Trinità, a church built in the Norman period.
Experience The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
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SHOP Marsala DOC The story goes that Garibaldi landed at Marsala, visited the winery and then conquered the island. Don’t miss a tour of the prestigious Cantine Florio cellars before stopping by the wine shop. ⌂ Via Vincenzo Florio 1, Marsala, # 10am–4pm Mon–Sat ∑ duca.it/florio |
The Phoenician city of Mozia was built on the island of San Pantaleo, just off Sicily. The site is linked with Joseph Whitaker, the son of an English wine merchant who made his fortune from Marsala wine. He became owner of the island in the early 1900s, began archaeological digs in 1913, and founded the Museo Whitaker that houses the “young man from Mozia” statues. Along with those in Carthage, the dry docks here are the most ancient in the Mediterranean.
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# Apr–Oct: 9:30am–6:30pm; Nov–Mar: 9am–3pm ∑ fondazionewhitaker.it
t Small fishing boats lining the Canale di Sicilia in the town of Mazara del Vallo
Facing the Canale di Sicilia, at the mouth of the Mazarò river, this town – a colony of Selinunte – was destroyed in 409 BC by the Carthaginians. It was passed to the Romans and then became a prosperous city under the Arabs, who made it the capital of one of the three “valleys” into which they split Sicily. In 1073 Mazara was conquered by Roger I; he convened the first Norman Parliament of Sicily here.
In Piazza Mokarta remains of the castle can be seen. Behind this is the Cathedral, of medieval origin but rebuilt in 1694. It houses the Transfiguration, a sculpture group by the iconic Italian sculptor Antonello Gagini. The left side of the Cathedral closes off Piazza della Repubblica, with the façade of the Seminario dei Chierici and the Palazzo Vescovile. On Lungomare Mazzini you will see the Collegio dei Gesuiti, seat of the Museo Civico, and can enter the old Arab town.
The fishing port of Mazara del Vallo gained worldwide attention in 1998, when a Hellenic bronze of the Satiro Danzante (“dancing satyr”) was discovered nearby on the fine Mediterranean seabed by a local fisherman. After restoration, the rare bronze statue, believed to be from the 4th century BC, now sits in its own museum on the town’s Piazza Plebiscito in the former Sant’Egidio Church.
t A windmill and salt marshes lining Trapani’s serene coast
This agricultural town in the Valle del Delia dates from ancient times (it was probably the Halicyae mentioned by Diodorus Siculus). Despite the 1968 earthquake, the Arab town plan has remained, with a jumble of narrow streets at the foot of the three towers of the castle. Here, on 14 May 1860, Garibaldi proclaimed himself ruler of Sicily in the name of King Vittorio Emanuele II.
In the old town, interesting sights are Sant’Agostino with its large cloister and the 17th-century Collegio dei Gesuiti, which houses the Chiesa dei Gesuiti, the Oratorio del Ritiro and the town’s museums, in particular the Museo Civico d’Arte Sacra.
Experience The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
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DRINK Pollara Principe di Corleone After touring the Pollara Principe di Corleone Estates sample their award-winning, territorial white wine, Biano d’Alcamo. ⌂ Contrada Malvello, Monreale ∑ principedicorleone.it |
A popular holiday resort set on the magnificent Golfo di Castellammare, San Vito Lo Capo is a lively place with one of the finest sandy beaches in Sicily. The focus of life is pedestrianized Via Savoia, lined with shops and restaurants. Another highlight is the promenade backing the sweeping crescent of white sand that stretches east of town. A short walk beyond the harbour is a lighthouse perched on a windswept cape. Beyond there are great views across the entire gulf from the cliffs, although in hot weather you may prefer to take in the coast from one of the many boat trips operating from the harbour. Just 12 km (7 miles) south of San Vito, the Zingaro Nature Reserve is a pristine 7-km (4-mile) stretch of coastline with tiny white pebble bays backed by steep mountains. Home to the rare Bonelli’s eagle and some 600 species of plant, it is a fantastic place for a day’s hiking. There are two main paths, the upper Sentiero Alto and the lower Sentiero Basso, which keeps close to the shore, with access to little coves. There are no shops or facilities here, so bring food and plenty of water.
t The stunningly colourful Sicilian coastal port of Castellammare del Golfo
This town was the Greek port for Segesta and Erice, and then an Arab fortress. It became an important trading and tuna-fishing centre in the Middle Ages. In the heart of the town, on an isthmus, is the Norman-Swabian castle, and the old picturesque streets of the medieval quarter known as castri di la terra. On Via Garibaldi is the Chiesa Madre, frequently rebuilt in the 1700s and 1800s.
During the Arab period the fortress of Manzil Alqamah was built as part of this area’s defensive network. The town of Alcamo developed later, and between the 13th and 14th centuries centred around the Chiesa Madre and the castle, which has been restored. In Piazza Ciullo is Sant’Oliva, built in 1724 over an earlier church, while the nearby Chiesa del Rosario houses late 15th-century frescoes. Facing Piazza della Repubblica is Santa Maria del Gesù. But the most important church here is the Chiesa Madre, founded in 1332. Its Baroque façade has a 14th-century bell tower with double lancet windows, and many paintings and sculptures can be seen in the chapels.
Insider Tip
San Vito Lo Capo’s Couscous Festival is held in September, with a preview event in June. Sample dozens of kinds of couscous, and see concerts and a fireworks display on the last night.
The central zone around the village of Corleone is referred to as il Corleonese. Remote villages sprinkled throughout are worth a visit to witness a way of life that is slow to change, including Bisacquino, Palazzo Adriano and Prizzi. Corleone itself is a mountain community with an active historic centre and a church on nearly every corner. The Il Laboratorio della Legalità (AntiMafia Museum) within the confiscated home of mafioso boss Bernardo Provenzano offers a stunning visual history of the crime organization, while at the C.I.D.M.A. a vast collection of documents takes you on a journey from the beginnings of the mafia to present day.
In 1968 a terrible earthquake destroyed all the towns in the Valle del Belice and the vicinity, including Gibellina. The new town was rebuilt, after years of bureaucratic delay, in the Salinella zone about 20 km (12 miles) from the original village. Over 40 years after the event, the new Gibellina already seems old and rather sad. However, it is worth visiting because, thanks to contemporary architects and artists, the area has been enriched with many works of art, including a huge sculpture, Stella (Star) – the city gate and symbol of Gibellina Nuova – by sculptor Pietro Consagra. Other attractions are the Torre Civica Carillon, a tower in Piazza del Municipio, and the Centro Culturale, the cultural centre built over the remains of the 17th-century Palazzo Di Lorenzo. Lastly, be sure to visit the Museo Antropologico-Etnologico, with everyday objects and tools illustrating local folk customs, and, above all, the Museo Civico d’Arte Contemporanea. This museum contains works by artists such as Fausto Pirandello, Renato Guttuso, Antonio Sanfilippo and Mario Schifano.
⌂ Via Segesta § 0924-67428 # 9am–1pm, 4–7pm Mon–Sat
t Driving through Pietro Consagra‘s iconic Stella sculpture in Gibellina
t Gymnasium ruins from the city of Solunto on the slopes of Monte Catalfano
The ruins of the city of Solunto lie on the slopes of Monte Catalfano with a beautiful panoramic view of the sea. Solunto was one of the first Phoenician colonies in Sicily and was mentioned by the Greek historian Thucydides, along with Palermo and Mozia. In 254 BC it was conquered by the Romans. By the 2nd century AD the city had been largely abandoned, and was later almost destroyed by the Saracens. At the entrance there is a museum displaying a site plan and finds from various digs, which began in 1826 and are still ongoing. Solunto follows a traditional layout. The path leading to the site takes you to Via dell’Agorà, with a fired-brick pavement and gutters for drainage. This street makes a right angle with the side stairs, which mark off the blocks of buildings (insulae). Six Doric columns and part of the roof of one of these, the Gymnasium, are still standing. Other insulae have mosaic floors and plastered or even painted walls. At the eastern end is the Agora, with workshops, cisterns to collect rainwater and a theatre with the stage area facing the sea.
During the expansion of the Ottoman Empire in the Balkans, many groups of Albanians (Albanesi) fled to Italy. At the end of the 15th century, John II allowed an Albanian community to settle in this area, which originally took the name of Piana dei Greci because the inhabitants belonged to the Greek Orthodox Church. The place was renamed Piana degli Albanesi in 1941. The town is famous for its colourful religious festivities, such as those during Epiphany and Easter, which are still celebrated according to the Orthodox calendar. The celebrations in honour of the patron saint Santa Maria Odigitria are followed by traditional folk festivities. Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, in the heart of town, is home to the Byzantine church of Santa Maria Odigitria, which has a beautiful iconostasis in the interior. Opposite the parish church is the town’s oldest church, San Giorgio, which was altered in the mid-1700s. Along the avenue named after Giorgio Kastriota Skanderbeg, an Albanian national hero, is the cathedral, San Demetrio. As is customary in Orthodox churches, the apses are closed off by the iconostasis.
The area is well known for Italo-Albanian dishes, such as strangujët (similar to gnocchi), kanojët (a waffle made of flour, wine and lard filled with sweetened goat ricotta and sprinkled with chocolate), and të plotit (little pastries stuffed with sweet fig jam and topped with candied sprinkles).
Many locals of Piana degli Albanesi speak an Albanian dialect, and street signs are bilingual.
On the western slopes of the Madonie mountains, this village grew up around an ancient fortress rebuilt by the Normans. Among its many churches is the Chiesa Madre, with a fine 16th-century Madonna and Child altarpiece by an unknown Flemish artist and a relief by Domenico Gagini (1482). A small museum shows the natural history of the area.
From Polizzi, ascend to Piano Battaglia, part of the nature reserve, which has footpaths in summer and ski runs in winter.
This town lies on the south western slope of Monte Marone, facing the Nebrodi and Madonie mountains. The birthplace of painters Gaspare Vazano and Giuseppe Salerno has retained its medieval character, with winding streets and steps connecting the different levels. The towering Chiesa Madre has a 14th-century bell tower and a lovely Last Judgment by Salerno, inspired by Michelangelo’s painting in the Sistine Chapel.
At Polizzi Generosa, a medieval village on the slopes of the Madonie mountains, they grow a variety of nocciole (hazelnuts) called racinante —a major source of the town’s economy up until the 1960s. Although the Nebrodi mountains are the leading producers of hazelnuts on the island, the crunchy fruit still plays an important role in Polizzi. These sweet and buttery nuts are celebrated with the Sagra delle Nocciole, an annual food festival that takes place for two days every August.
Beautiful Caccamo lies under the castellated walls of its Norman castle, in a lovely setting of softly rolling hills only 10 km (6 miles) from the Palermo-Catania motorway. The town is laid out on different levels, with well-maintained roads that open onto pretty squares. The most appealing of these is Piazza Duomo, with the Chiesa Matrice dedicated to San Giorgio, flanked by statues and two symmetrically arranged Baroque buildings: the Oratorio della Compagnia del Sacramento and the Chiesa delle Anime Sante del Purgatorio. The former was built by the Normans but was enlarged in the 17th century. Its richly decorated interior has a font by Gagini and his workshop. The latter includes catacombs where a large number of townspeople were buried until the mid-19th century. Not far away are the Annunziata, with twin bell towers, San Marco and San Benedetto alla Badia. The last is perhaps the loveliest of the three, with its Baroque stucco and majolica decoration and a colourful floor depicting a ship sailing on the high seas, guarded by angels.
t The medieval town of Caccamo set upon the rolling hills of Sicily
t Petralia Soprana sits high above the landscape, offering stunning views
Perched on a rock 1,000 m (3,300 ft) up, and nestled at the foot of the tallest peaks in the Madonie mountains, is the picturesque town of Petralia Sottana. It is laid out around its main street, Via Agliata, which ends in Piazza Umberto I, opposite the Chiesa Madre. The late Gothic church, which was partially rebuilt in the 17th century, contains a fine wooden triptych, The Virgin Mary and Child between Saints Peter and Paul. An arch connects the bell tower with the Santissima Trinità, which has a marble altarpiece by sculptor Domenico Gagini.
Situated on a plateau 1,147 m (3,760 ft) above sea level, where the panoramic view ranges from the Nebrodi mountains to the volcanic cone of Mount Etna, Petralia Soprana is the highest village in the Madonie mountains. This village was an extremely important Greek and Phoenician city. Under Roman dominion ancient “Petra” was one of the largest wheat-producing civitates in the Empire. The city became Batraliah after the Arab conquest and a powerful defensive stronghold under the Normans. Later, the two Petralias (Soprana and Sottana) were taken over by noble families.
The village has preserved its medieval layout, with narrow paved streets, patrician residences and churches. The old Chiesa Madre, dedicated to saints Peter and Paul and rebuilt in the 14th century, stands in an attractive square with a 17th-century double-column colonnade designed by the Serpotta brothers. In the interior is the first crucifix by sculptor Fra’ Umile Pintorno (1580– 1639), who also painted many other crucifixes throughout the island. Santa Maria di Loreto was built in the 18th century over the remains of a castle; it has a cross plan and the façade is flanked by two decorated bell towers.
Petralia was the first centre in Sicily to fall under the control of the Romans.
This beautiful swimming resort is dominated by the ruins of a 14th-century castle. The characteristic alleys with old stone houses and villas converge in a stone-paved central square. The banks of the nearby Tusa river have become an outdoor gallery with works by contemporary artists. Only a few miles away are the Ruins of Halaesa Arconidea, a Greek colony founded in 403 BC, which prospered until it was sacked by the Roman praetor Verres. Excavations have revealed the Agora, remains of cyclopean walls and a Hellenistic temple. Near the archaeological site is the Monastery of Santa Maria della Balate.
⌂ 3 km (2 miles) on the road to Tusa § 0921-334 531 # Summer: 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sun (winter: to 4:30pm)
t Many of the caves carved into the cliffs of Sperlinga were inhabited until the 1960s
Sperlinga seems to have been pushed against a spectacular rock face, its parallel streets on different levels connected by steps. In the eastern section, up against the sandstone cliff, many troglodytic cave dwellings have been carved out. Until the mid-1960s many of them were inhabited, but some of them are now an ethnographic museum. During Norman rule, inhabitants from Northern Italy and the south of France settled here, and for this reason residents today speak a strange dialect called Galloitalico.
Experience The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
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DRINK Alla Vucciria Risto Pub Tables are piled high with inventive finger foods in this buzzy gastropub that serves artisanal beer, excellent cocktails and local wine until late. ⌂ Via Vittorio Emanuele 45, Geraci Siculo # 10am–3am Tue–Sun Bar Lombardo On the main square in Petralia Soprana, Bar Lombardo is an offbeat, local haunt with a tiny patio in front for people-watching. ⌂ Piazza del Popolo 11, Petralia Soprana # 12:30–3pm & 7:30–10pm Thu–Tue Al Punto A few scenic steps from the gulf of Castel di Tusa, this is a great drinking spot. Each evening there is a generous apericena – a hybrid of aperitivo and cena (dinner). ⌂ Viale Europa Unita 50, Castel di Tusa # 10am–11:30pm daily shop Enoteca Lo Balbo Located in the heart of the village of Gangi, this intimate wine shop carries a large selection of wines, spirits and authentic Sicilian products. ⌂ Via Nazionale 178, Gangi # 9am–1pm & 4–8pm Mon–Sat ∑ enotecalobalbo.it |
t Statues decorate the elaborate walls of Villa Palagonia in Bagheria
In the 18th century, the town of Bagheria was the summer residence of Palermo’s nobility, who built luxurious villas surrounded by orange groves as retreats from the heat of the capital. Prince Ettore Branciforti built the first, Villa Barbera, in 1657. The most famous is the Villa Palagonia on Piazza Garibaldi, decorated with hundreds of statues of monsters and mythological figures. Built in 1736 by Prince Francesco Bonnano, Villa Cattolica on Via Ramacca has a style similar to a castle. Today it houses the Museo Renato Guttuso – named after the Neo-Realist painter born in Bagheria in 1912. Step back in time with a visit to Museo del Giocattolo e delle Cere Pietro Piraino on Via Dietro la Certosa, containing a delightful collection of porcelain dolls, old mechanical toys and children’s vintage games.
Sprawled over four hills, Nicosia is dominated by the ruins of an Arab-Norman castle. Originally a Byzantine settlement, the town was repopulated in the Norman era by Lombard and Piedmontese colonists, who have left traces of their local dialects. The many churches and patrician mansions are a sign of the town’s former splendour. Narrow streets and alleys run up the hills, often providing spectacular views. Piazza Garibaldi is the heart of Nicosia, with the Gothic San Nicolò Cathedral and old buildings, including the current Town Hall. The Salita Salomone steps lead to Romanesque San Salvatore. There is a fine view of the old town from the porch. The church has a series of sundials which, according to tradition, were once used as the town’s “clocks”. Via Salomone, lined with aristocratic palazzi, leads up to Santa Maria Maggiore, just under the castle rock. In the interior is Charles V’s throne, in memory of the emperor’s visit here in 1535, a gilded marble altarpiece by Antonello Gagini and a crucifix known as Father of Mercy. From here you can go up to the castle, with its Norman drawbridge and the remains of the keep. At the foot of the castle is the Norman Basilica of San Michele, with its austere apses and majestic 15th-century bell towers.
Experience The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
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STAY Stella Marina Residence This hotel offers stylish, self-catering apartments in a small complex above the port. ⌂ Via Cristoforo Colombo 35, Ustica ∑ stellamarinaustica.it ¡¡¡ |
This town facing the Tyrrhenian Sea is one of the leading Sicilian centres for the production of ceramics. Local craftsmen display their wares, from vases, jugs and cornices, to tiles with period designs, and there is a ceramics museum in the Palazzo Trabia. In the centre of town stands the Chiesa Madre, or San Nicolò, with a Renaissance doorway and late 18th-century stucco decoration in the interior.
t Fish swim among colourful coral in the waters around Ustica
Locals refer to Ustica as “black pearl” because of the unique volcanic rocks here.
Ustica is the result of ancient volcanic eruptions: its name derives from the word ustum (burned) and the land is made up of sharp black volcanic rock. The emerged part of the gigantic submerged volcano, about 49 km (30 miles) from the Sicilian coast, is only 8.6 sq km (3.32 sq miles), but its extremely fertile lava terrain is ideal for the cultivation of capers and lentils. The steep and rocky coasts and the seascape that surrounds the island make it an ideal spot for underwater sports. Because of the importance of the sea beds, the first Marine Reserve in Italy was established here on 12 November 1986; it is run by the local authorities. Guided tours are organized by the Marine Reserve itself, and in July the island plays host to a series of international skin- and scuba-diving programmes. A particularly interesting underwater excursion is the one that starts off at Punta Gavazzi, with what could be described as an archaeological diving tour of the ancient Roman amphorae, old anchors and traces of the passage of sailors since the beginning of human history in this part of the sea.
The village of Ustica is dominated by the Capo Falconara promontory, where the Bourbon rulers built a little fort offering a splendid view as far as the Sicilian coast. Local life revolves around Piazza Umberto I, where there is a whitewashed parish church.
The main feature of a boat tour of the island is the great number of underwater caves in the rocky coastline: the Grotta Azzurra, whose large caverns are preceded by an imposing natural arch, the Grotta delle Colonne, with a cliff of the same name, and the Grotta Blasi, Grotta dell’Oro and Grotta delle Barche (where fishermen used to moor their boats during storms) are only a few of the many caves to be seen.
EXPERIENCE The Egadi Islands and the Northwest
Alta Marea
⌂ Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo ∑ altamareaustica.it
Alta Marea offers courses for all abilities, from single dives to deep-sea immersion.
Orca Diving Ustica
⌂ Via Cristoforo Colombo ∑ orcadivingustica.com
Scuba-certified or snorkel-ready, equipment can be hired to experienced divers.
Ustica Diving Centre
⌂ Piazza Umberto I ∑ usticadiving.it
There’s no need to go deep to enjoy Ustica’s waters – opt for a snorkelling course followed by a swim.