Wild Greens Jam

Serves 4 to 6 as part of a traditional salad course

The salad is refrigerated for at least 1 hour or up to 4 days (its flavor improves daily).

Also known as Paula Wolfert’s herb jam, this savory, creamy spread has acquired a cult following. A mix of greens are steamed until buttery soft, then cooked again in Moroccan spices and massaged with plenty of olive oil.

This version has been tweaked to play up Paula’s favorite component, the peppery yet sweet—and incredibly nutritious—wild greens. She first learned about purslane and mallow from cooks in Morocco, then championed them her entire career, culminating with her book Mediterranean Grains and Greens (see the chapter starting here for more). But they’re not required. Feel free to swap in more of your favorite store-bought greens or even replace some or all of the cultivated and wild greens with up to 16 ounces (450 g) defrosted frozen spinach. Whether wild or cultivated, the cooked greens taste almost like pâté, brightened with garnishes of preserved lemons and black olives. Enjoy them with a spoon, on a cracker, or served alongside grilled fish, meat, or tofu.

12 ounces (350 g) young cultivated greens, such as spinach, Swiss chard, arugula, or beet, or a mixture, stemmed and coarsely chopped

4 ounces (115 g) wild greens, such as purslane, mallow, or nettles, or a mixture, stemmed and coarsely chopped

1 cup (40 g) coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

3 garlic cloves, unpeeled

½ cup (20 g) fresh cilantro leaves, chopped

¼ teaspoon flaky sea salt

4 to 5 tablespoons (60 to 75 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, or more if needed

¼ teaspoon sweet smoked paprika (pimentón de la Vera dulce)

¼ teaspoon ground toasted cumin, preferably Moroccan

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Juice of ½ lemon

½ preserved lemon (here), pulp discarded and rind rinsed and slivered

12 oil-cured black olives, preferably Moroccan, rinsed (see note)

Flatbread or crackers, for serving (optional)

Fit a large pot with a steamer basket, add water to the pot to just below the base of the basket, and bring the water to a boil over high heat. In batches, add the cultivated and wild greens, parsley, and garlic cloves. As soon as a batch just softens, push it aside with tongs or a spoon and add more. (Paula uses this method to cook an enormous amount of leafy greens efficiently and evenly.) Once all of the greens are added, let them steam until the garlic is soft and the greens are very tender. The total cooking time is 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the type of greens.

Remove the pot from the heat. Remove the steamer basket from the pot and let the contents of the basket cool. Retrieve the garlic, peel the cloves, and set aside. Squeeze the greens dry in a kitchen towel and chop finely. Using a mortar and pestle, the back of a knife and a cutting board, or a mini food processor, crush together the steamed garlic, cilantro, and salt until a paste forms.

In a 10-inch (25-cm) frying pan, preferably earthenware (stainless steel or enameled cast iron are also fine), heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the garlic paste, paprika, cumin, and cayenne and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chopped greens and cook, mashing and stirring with the back of a spoon or fork, until all of the liquid has evaporated, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and let cool to room temperature.

Stir the lemon juice into the cooled greens. Mash in enough additional oil until the mixture is creamy and smooth (about 2 tablespoons, or more to taste). Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 days.

Just before serving, taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt, cumin, and/or lemon juice if needed. Serve in its dish or shape into a round on a platter. Garnish with the preserved lemon slivers and black olives. Offer with flatbread, if desired, and invite guests to scoop up the jam.

NOTE Rinse the olives with cool water, then taste for saltiness and bitterness. If they are too salty, soak them in lukewarm water to cover for 30 minutes to 1 hour; drain and rinse well. Repeat as necessary. If they are too bitter, place them in a small saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil; drain and rinse well. Repeat as necessary.