Avocado Mousses with Shrimp & Mango
Egg Rolls with Sweet & Sour Crab
Crab & Tomato Napoleons with Tomato Aspic
Artichoke Mousses with Scallops & Mango
Salmon with Potatoes, Peas, Leeks & Broccoli Gratin
Smoked Salmon Egg Salad Sandwiches on Pumpernickel
Lemon-Scented Cakes with Salmon, Caper & Lemon Topping
Tuna Summer Rolls with Dipping Sauces
24 slices regular or turkey bacon
LOW AND SLOW—that’s the key to perfect grits. This baked version, similar to a soufflé, includes just enough cornmeal to hold together these naughty little packages wrapped in bacon. The flavor of the bacon melts into the grits, giving the whole dish a pleasant smokiness. You won’t even notice that this recipe only uses a fraction of the butter that grits normally receive. It’s more flavorful—and healthier!
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (270 ml) whole milk
1/2 cup (80 g) stone-ground grits
4 ounces (115 g) cheddar, grated
1/4 cup (1/2 stick / 60 g) unsalted butter
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons yellow or white cornmeal
2 large egg yolks
3 large egg whites
1 tablespoon salted butter
1/2 pound (225 g) medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
4 cloves garlic, minced, or 4 teaspoons garlic from a tube
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley or parsley from a tube
Cayenne (optional)
Cooking bacon on foil makes for easy cleanup. Once the bacon is cooked, transfer the slices to a paper towel to drain, then fold up the foil and toss it in the trash.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Arrange the bacon on 2 foil-lined sheet pans and bake until it is crispy, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the bacon to a paper towel–lined sheet pan to drain, then cut each slice of bacon in half crosswise so you have 48 short slices. Do not turn off the oven.
In a medium saucepan over high heat, bring the milk and 1 cup (240 ml) of water to a boil, about 4 minutes. Slowly add the grits, whisking constantly. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover the pan, stirring occasionally, until the grits are smooth and thick, about 12 minutes. Do not walk away from the grits, as they boil over easily.
Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese, butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the cornmeal into the mixture a little at a time, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Stir the 2 egg yolks into the grits.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on medium speed until stiff peaks form, about 4 minutes. With a rubber spatula, fold the egg white mixture into the grits.
> ASSEMBLE AND BAKE THE SOUFFLÉS
Line the wells of a 12-well classic cupcake pan with the cooked bacon, using 4 half-slices per well in a crisscross formation. The bacon can peek up over the rims of the wells, which will add to the drama of this presentation.
Divide the grits among the wells, filling each well to the top. Bake until the soufflés are golden and puffed up, about 20 minutes. (They will fall when you take them out.) Let cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then use your hands to lift them from the pan, using the bacon wrappers as handles.
> MAKE THE SHRIMP
In a medium sauté pan over medium-low heat, melt the butter and sauté the shrimp and garlic just until pink, 5 to 7 minutes. Toss in the chopped parsley for color. Spoon about 3 shrimp over each soufflé and sprinkle the tops with cayenne, if you dare.
AMAZING. That’s all I can say about this delectable mousse. It is rich, but light, and has a subtle hint of lime that cuts through the buttery avocado and cream cheese. The addition of lime-marinated shrimp adds a tart brightness. Make sure to choose avocados that are ripe and without blemish; the flesh should have a beautiful green color when sliced open.
I would serve this mousse on a bed of alternating slices of mango and avocado as the salad course for a larger meal.
2 tablespoons boiling water
1 (1/4-ounce / 7-g) packet unflavored gelatin
2 large ripe Hass avocados
Zest of 1 lime
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 ounces (55 g) cream cheese
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 pound (225 g) medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon curry powder
2 tablespoons mango chutney
2 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro or cilantro from a tube
1/3 cup (55 g) diced fresh mango
2 teaspoons chile-lime hot sauce or your favorite hot sauce
Juice of 1 lime
1 avocado, halved, pitted, and cut into 24 thin slices (see Note)
3 hearts of palm, thinly sliced into 48 rounds
There are two basic methods for cutting an avocado: cutting the meat in the shell, or removing it from the shell and then cutting it. I prefer to cut the slices while still in the shell because this allows me to hold the avocado half in my hand, remove the pit, and then thinly slice the avocado flesh, being careful not to cut through the shell. I scoop the slices out of the shell with a large spoon. Alternatively, you can pit the avocado, scoop the flesh from each half in one piece with a large spoon, and then cut it into slices.
Place the boiling water in a small bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it. Stir and then let stand to bloom, about 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, pit and peel the avocados. Put the avocado flesh into a blender and add the lime zest and juice; blend until smooth. Add the cream cheese along with the salt and pepper and blend until fully combined. Add the gelatin, blending fully. Set aside at room temperature.
In a medium sauté pan, heat the extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat. Add the shrimp and cook, flipping them once halfway through, until they are opaque and pink, about 3 minutes. Coarsely chop the shrimp, then transfer them to a medium bowl, along with the salt, curry powder, chutney, cilantro, mango, hot sauce, and lime juice. Mix to combine, then refrigerate until cool, about 30 minutes.
Line a 12-well classic cupcake pan with plastic wrap by overlapping 2 long pieces along the center of the pan, leaving at least a 3-inch (7.5-cm) border of plastic wrap overhanging all sides of the pan.
Line each well with 2 overlapping slices of avocado, then 4 slices of hearts of palm per well. Add 1 heaping tablespoon of shrimp, then divide the mousse among the wells. Tap the pan to settle the mousse in the wells.
Tightly wrap the pan in another layer of plastic and chill for 2 to 4 hours. (Chilling any longer will cause the avocado to discolor.) To unpan, remove the top layer of plastic wrap, then lift up on the edges of the plastic wrap lining the wells of the pan to remove the mousses.
I AM A SPICE GIRL, as you can tell by this recipe. Here a crispy wrapper is filled with the perfect blend of sweet and sour vegetables and crab. These egg rolls offer plenty of zing; if you’re not a big fan of heat, cut back a little on the Sriracha or chile sauce.
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup (75 g) finely chopped red bell pepper
1 large clove garlic, chopped, or 1 tablespoon garlic from a tube
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger or ginger from a tube
1/2 cup (45 g) packed finely shredded Napa cabbage
1/4 cup (60 ml) ketchup
1 to 3 tablespoons Sriracha or other hot chile sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 cup (120 ml) sake
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
8 ounces (225 g) fresh lump crabmeat, drained and picked over for shells (see Note)
Nonstick cooking spray, for the pan
1 (16-ounce / 455-g) package egg roll wrappers
2 scallions, sliced on a bias, for garnish
Fresh lump crabmeat can be found in the refrigerated section of most grocery stores.
In a medium sauté pan over medium-low heat, heat the sesame oil; add the onion and let it sweat for about 3 minutes to soften (do not allow it to brown). Add the red pepper, garlic, ginger, and cabbage; turn off the heat and transfer the vegetable mixture to a medium bowl.
Using the same pan, over medium heat, bring the ketchup, Sriracha, sugar, sake, lime juice, and oyster sauce to a boil, whisking constantly. In a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tablespoons of water. Add this to the pan, whisking constantly until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. When the bubbles begin to get larger and the sauce is visibly thick, turn off the heat. Add this sauce to the bowl with the vegetables, then add the crab. Mix well and adjust the seasoning as needed.
> ASSEMBLE AND BAKE THE EGG ROLLS
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Spray a 12-well classic cupcake pan with nonstick cooking spray and line each well with an egg roll wrapper, creating a cup. Divide the crab mixture among the wells, leaving the wrapper open. Bake until the egg roll wrapper is golden brown and crispy at the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Let the egg rolls rest in the pan for 5 minutes, then use your hands to lift them from the pan, using the wrappers as handles. Garnish the egg rolls with fresh scallions.
WHILE NAPOLEONS are traditionally desserts, this version doesn’t suffer—and even improves—with the transition to savory. This Napoleon is elegant and well worth the work. To save a little time, substitute roasted tomatoes packed in olive oil and herbs, found in the deli of most markets, near the olives. These tomatoes have a bright, flavorful taste. Sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil are not a good substitute because of their earthy flavor. Using V-8 juice really makes the flavors pop.
6 large ripe plum tomatoes or medium beefsteak or vine-ripened tomatoes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
6 sprigs fresh thyme
1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 ounces (225 g) fresh lump crabmeat, drained and picked over for shells (see Note, this page)
3 tablespoons sour cream
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons snipped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup (12 g) snipped chives
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Tabasco sauce
1 (1/4-ounce / 7-g) packet unflavored gelatin
1 1/2 cups (360 ml) V-8 juice or marinara sauce, warmed
1/3 cup finely chopped onion
1 rib celery, strings removed, very finely chopped
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
The tomato confit can be made in advance, and will keep, covered in a layer of olive oil, for up to 2 weeks in an airtight container in the fridge (see “Savory Tidbit”). You can also prepare the Napoleons up to a day in advance of serving, and unmold them on the day of your event.
Preheat the oven to 275°F (135°C). Cut the tomatoes in half and remove all of the seeds and pulp with a small spoon or knife.
Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and drizzle with the oil, then arrange the tomatoes, cut side down, on the pan; scatter the garlic and thyme around them and sprinkle with the salt.
Bake, turning the pan from time to time, until the tomatoes are very soft and shriveled, 2 hours or more. Do not allow them to brown; if they begin to brown around the edges, turn the heat down to 250°F (120°C). When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, cut each piece in half for a total of 24 pieces.
In a medium bowl, combine the crabmeat, sour cream, mayonnaise, lemon juice, cilantro, and chives. Season with salt, pepper, and Tabasco, then place in the fridge until assembly.
Pour 1/4 cup (60 ml) of hot water into a medium bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it; stir to combine. Let sit for about 5 minutes, then whisk in the warmed tomato juice, making sure you dissolve all of the lumps. If any lumps remain, reheat the mixture for a few minutes over low heat, whisking to dissolve them. Stir in the onion, celery, Worcestershire, lemon juice, salt, and pepper and set aside at room temperature.
> ASSEMBLE THE NAPOLEONS
Line a 12-well classic cupcake pan with plastic wrap by overlapping 2 long pieces of plastic wrap along the center of the pan, leaving at least a 3-inch (7.5-cm) border of plastic wrap overhanging all sides of the pan.
Distribute half of the aspic among the wells. Next place 1 piece of roasted tomato in each well. Add the crab salad, dividing it equally among the wells. Add another roasted tomato, and distribute the remaining aspic evenly between the wells.
Place another piece of plastic wrap on top of the cupcake pan and press down gently into each well to help the aspic settle, which will ensure layered Napoleons that hold their shape. Wrap the pan tightly in the plastic wrap and chill for 2 hours or overnight. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap, then lift up on the edges of the plastic wrap lining the wells of the pan to remove the Napoleons.
When I make these, I triple the recipe for the tomato confit due to the amount of time it takes to create them. It is well worth your time, especially in the winter when tomatoes are not in season and are firm and flavorless. Creating tomato confit with those unwanted winter tomatoes will brighten their flavor, and slow roasting with olive oil and salt brings out their sweetness. I use these in salads and on wedges of bread with fresh cheese.
I LOVE TO EAT NANTUCKET BAY SCALLOPS fresh, as they are like candy, but unfortunately we don’t have those in Orlando. Instead, I pick up some small, fresh bay scallops without the muscle attached. When absolutely fresh, there is no need to cook them; they are delicious simply coated in this curried dressing.
Always use caution and follow safe handling practices when preparing raw fish or shellfish. If a meal calls for raw, using it the day it’s purchased is the freshest—and safest—option.
1/2 cup (120 ml) tomato sauce or ketchup
Juice of 1 lime
2 (1/4-ounce / 7-g) packets unflavored gelatin
1 (14-ounce / 400-g) can artichoke hearts, drained
1/2 cup (120 ml) plain yogurt
1/2 cup (120 ml) sour cream
1/2 teaspoon curry powder
2 tablespoons mango chutney
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon sweet relish
8 ounces (225 g) bay scallops, rinsed
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon curry powder
2 tablespoons mango chutney
2 teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro or cilantro from a tube
1/3 cup (55 g) diced mango
2 teaspoons hot sauce
Juice of 1 lime
1 avocado, halved, pitted, and cut into 24 thin slices (see Note, this page)
3 hearts of palm, thinly sliced into 48 rounds
Several thin slices tomato, for serving (optional)
Several thin slices cucumber, for serving (optional)
2 to 3 thinly sliced hard-boiled eggs, for serving (optional)
In a small saucepan over medium heat, heat the tomato sauce with the lime juice until just boiling. Sprinkle the gelatin over the tomato sauce, and let it sit for 5 minutes, then stir to combine. In a blender, combine the artichoke hearts, yogurt, sour cream, curry powder, chutney, and salt and pepper to taste; blend until smooth. Add the gelatin mixture to the tomato sauce mixture in the blender and stir by hand to incorporate, then stir in the sweet relish. Set the mousse aside in the blender at room temperature.
Drain any liquid from the scallops. (If you prefer cooked scallops, see the Variation for cooking instructions.) Transfer the scallops to a medium bowl, then add the oil, salt, curry powder, chutney, cilantro, mango, hot sauce, and lime juice. Toss to coat the scallops thoroughly and adjust the seasoning, which should be a combination of sweet and tangy, fresh and bright.
Line a 12-well classic cupcake pan with plastic wrap by overlapping 2 long pieces of plastic wrap along the center of the pan, leaving at least a 3-inch (7.5-cm) border of plastic wrap overhanging all sides of the pan.
In each well, layer 2 avocado slices (pressing them into the wells), 4 hearts of palm slices, and 2 heaping tablespoons of scallops. Pour the mousse into the wells directly from the blender, dividing it equally among the wells. Tap the pan on the work surface so the mousse settles into the wells.
Wrap the cupcake pan tightly in another layer of plastic wrap and chill for 4 hours, making sure to serve the scallops the same day they were purchased if serving raw. (If the scallops are cooked, the mousses can be chilled overnight.) Remove the top layer of plastic wrap, then lift up on the edges of the plastic wrap lining the wells of the pan to remove the mousses. Serve the mousses on a bed of alternating slices of tomato, cucumber, and hard-boiled egg as a mini meal or as the salad course of a larger meal.
VARIATION For those who prefer their scallops cooked, sauté them over medium heat in 1 teaspoon olive oil with a pinch of salt and pepper until opaque, about 4 minutes. Then proceed with the recipe.
MAKE YOUR MEALS
Don’t think you have to make perfect creations like you see in the photographs in this book. What you create in your kitchen is exactly what your family will love. However, as you become familiar with the recipes and techniques using the cupcake pan, your dishes will naturally look better with each preparation. If you take anything from this book, let it be improved confidence in the kitchen, especially when using the cupcake pan!
THIS DISH EVOLVED from a recipe for broccoli gratin I found in Bon Appétit years ago and have loved ever since. What makes the combination of the gratin with the other ingredients so special is how the dry mustard and cheese of the gratin-style topping give it the feel of a strudel. Peas add a slight sweetness to the mix, while the broccoli and bread crumbs add a hearty and nutty flavor.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup (55 g) minced shallots
2 cloves garlic, minced, or 2 teaspoons garlic from a tube
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1 1/2 cups (165 g) fresh bread crumbs (see Note, this page) or panko
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup (60 g) grated Parmesan
Florets from 1 head of broccoli, chopped small
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 cup (60 ml) whipping cream or half-and-half
1 cup (145 g) frozen peas, thawed
1 pound (455 grams) fresh salmon fillet, skin and bones removed
2 leeks
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 Yukon Gold or other creamy yellow potatoes
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream or half-and-half
1 cup (240 ml) white wine
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Salt and pepper
1 cup (115 g) grated Gruyère
Nonstick cooking spray, for the pan
In a medium sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the shallots and sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and dry mustard; mix well. Add the bread crumbs and sauté until the crumbs are golden, 5 to 8 minutes more, tossing them back and forth in the pan to toast evenly. Season with salt and pepper. Turn off the heat. While the pan is still hot, stir in 1/4 cup (30 g) of the Parmesan and continue to stir for 1 minute, scraping up any cheese that has melted on the bottom of the pan. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.
In a pot of boiling water, cook the broccoli florets for 2 to 3 minutes; they should be crisp and bright green. Drain the florets, rinse them under cold water to stop the cooking process, drain again, and chop them small. Place the chopped broccoli in a large bowl and toss with the Dijon mustard, cream, and the remaining Parmesan, mixing until well combined. Stir in the bread crumb mixture to combine. Set aside.
Purée the peas in a blender until smooth.
Place the salmon in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade and pulse until broken up but not pulverized.
Remove and discard the roots and dark green tops of the leeks. Cut the leeks crosswise into rounds and place them in a large bowl of cold water to soak for 5 minutes. Remove the rounds from the water using a slotted spoon and transfer to a colander. Rinse to remove any remaining grit. Discard the soaking water. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt the butter, then add the leeks and sauté until softened, about 4 minutes. (Do not brown.) Remove from the heat and set aside.
Slice each potato widthwise into nine 1/8-inch (3-mm) slices, for a total of 36 pieces. In a large sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the potatoes and cook, flipping occasionally, until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Pour 1/2 cup (120 ml) cream and 1/2 cup (120 ml) white wine over the potatoes, stir in the thyme, and cook for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the remaining cream and wine. Increase the heat to high and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is reduced by half, about 6 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the Gruyère, and heat until the cheese has melted and the mixture is well combined.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Spray a 12-well classic cupcake pan with nonstick cooking spray.
Place 3 potato slices in the bottom of each well, forming a shell. In each well, layer the leeks, pea purée, and salmon. Distribute the cream sauce evenly over the top, then add the broccoli gratin, pressing down after each addition, until it has all been distributed evenly among the wells. Bake until the bread crumbs are golden brown and the gratin is cooked through, about 25 minutes.
Let the gratins rest in the pan for 1 minute, then loosen the sides of each gratin with a table knife and insert a fork between the pan and each gratin to lift it out. Serve with your favorite creamy soup, crusty bread, and sliced tomatoes.
I LOVE HOW THIS grown-up egg salad is beautifully contained by the Scottish smoked salmon wrapper and sandwiched with pumpernickel on the top and bottom. Cold-smoked salmon makes an excellent substitute for the Scottish and is available in most markets. Both of these are a good choice because of their mild fish flavor. Also note that no salt is needed as the salmon already has plenty to share. These mini meals are remarkably adaptable, delicious for breakfast, lunch, or as part of a buffet. Serve with a green salad and a light dressing for a refreshingly complete meal.
8 large eggs
1/3 cup (75 ml) mayonnaise
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon chopped capers plus 1 tablespoon caper brine
1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion or shallot
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill or dill from a tube
Freshly ground black pepper
1 (1/4-ounce / 7-g) packet unflavored gelatin
12 thin slices pumpernickel bread
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
12 sprigs fresh dill
16 ounces (455 g) Scottish or cold-smoked salmon, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill, for garnish (optional)
VARIATIONS White bread or onion-poppyseed bread are a few possible bread substitutions that would work well in this dish.
In a medium saucepan, cover the eggs by 2 inches (5 cm) with cold water and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat, cover, and let rest 10 minutes. Drain and rinse the eggs in cool water. Peel the eggs under running cool water.
Place the peeled eggs in a medium bowl along with the mayonnaise, mustard, capers and brine, red onion, dill, and pepper to taste. Whisk to bring all of the flavors together, mashing the eggs so they remain textured, not smooth (see “Savory Tidbit”). Sprinkle the gelatin over the egg salad and mix thoroughly.
Using a 2-inch (5-cm) round cookie or biscuit cutter, cut each slice of bread into 2 circles, for a total of 24.
Butter 12 of the circles, on one side only, with a thin layer of butter. Place 1 sprig of dill on each buttered slice and press it so it sticks.
Line a 12-well classic cupcake pan with plastic wrap by overlapping 2 long pieces of plastic wrap along the center of the pan, leaving a 3-inch (7.5-cm) border of plastic wrap overhanging all sides of the pan.
Line the wells with the smoked salmon, allowing the salmon to hang over the edges of the pan by 2 inches (5 cm). I use 1 1/2 slices per well, but the quantity will vary depending on the size of the slices. If the bottoms of the wells are not completely covered, cut smaller pieces of the salmon to fill them in. Add 1 round of bread, buttered side down, to each well.
Distribute the egg salad among the wells and top with the second piece of bread. Fold the salmon over the bread, and then wrap the pan in another layer of plastic wrap, pressing down on each well to compact the contents. Chill for 2 hours or up to 2 days.
Remove the top layer of plastic wrap, then lift up on the edges of the plastic wrap lining the wells of the pan to remove the mini sandwiches. To serve, invert the sandwiches and garnish with a pinch of fresh dill, if desired.
Instead of dirtying another dish (or three), mash the hard-boiled egg with a wire whisk in one bowl with the rest of the salad ingredients. (It’s going into the salad soon enough anyway.) This also saves you the time of chopping the eggs on a cutting board.
COLD-SMOKED SALMON offers a delicate flavor versus traditional smoked salmon. For this cake, I prefer the subtle flavor of wild sockeye. The cake has a dominant lemon flavor and a subtle bite from the pepper.
Nonstick cooking spray, for the pan
1 cup (2 sticks / 230 g) salted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons (140 g) sugar
1 tablespoon lemon extract
Zest of 5 lemons
5 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (230 g) all-purpose flour
1 cup plus 5 tablespoons (160 g) cake flour (not self-rising flour)
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (240 ml) full-fat sour cream
8 large egg whites, at room temperature
FOR THE SALMON, CAPER & LEMON TOPPING
12 ounces (340 g) cream cheese
8 ounces (225 g) crème fraîche
3 ounces (85 g) cold-smoked salmon, preferably wild sockeye, finely chopped
1/2 tablespoon capers in brine, drained and finely chopped
1 tablespoon lemon zest
Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 small bunches chives, snipped fine
> MAKE THE LEMON-SCENTED CAKES
Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Spray a 12-well classic cupcake pan with nonstick cooking spray.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Mix in the lemon extract and lemon zest. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well after each addition.
In a medium bowl, sift together both flours, the baking powder, and pepper. Add to the egg mixture and, with the mixer on low, mix until well combined. Add the sour cream and mix until well combined.
In the stand mixer fitted a clean bowl and the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, about 4 minutes. Gently fold the whites into the batter by hand. Fill each cupcake well with the batter. Bake until the tops are golden and a toothpick inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let the cupcakes cool completely in the pan.
MAKE THE SALMON, CAPER & LEMON TOPPING
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the cream cheese and cream fraîche until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Then add the salmon, capers, and the lemon zest and juice and beat to combine. Transfer the topping to a zip-top bag.
When the cupcakes are cool, loosen the edges of each and insert the tines of a fork between the pan and each cupcake to lift it out. Using a serrated knife, cut the rounded top off each cupcake and discard the top. Using an apple corer, make a 1-inch-deep (2.5-cm) hole in the center of each loaf, making sure not to cut all the way through or the filling will seep out. Snip one corner off the zip-top bag of topping. Pipe the topping into each cupcake, filling it to the top, and over the entire top of each cupcake. Smooth it with a table knife.
Place the sliced chives on a small plate and dip the top of each cake into the chives.
THESE SMALL SANDWICHES have little to do with bread and a whole lot to do with rice. The layers of traditional Japanese ingredients fuse with the American flavor of the Dijon honey dill dipping sauce. I’m a fan of cold smoked salmon for this dish because of its mild fish flavor, though other excellent options include lox, Nova, peppered, or dill salmon. Serve these the day you make them or the next, as the rice becomes too firm if chilled too long.
When you’re prepping the vegetables for this recipe, place them in small piles on a sheet pan so they are easily on hand when you’re assembling the sandwiches (and you have fewer bowls to wash!).
1 cup (200 g) short-grain rice
2 tablespoons sake
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
FOR THE DIJON HONEY DILL DIPPING SAUCE (OPTIONAL)
1/4 cup (60 ml) Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 large handful (160 g) snow peas, ends trimmed
6 sheets nori
1 (8-ounce / 225-g) package smoked presliced salmon
1 scallion, sliced thin on the bias
2 Kirby, Japanese, baby, or pickling cucumbers, thinly sliced (see Note)
1 cup (110 g) freshly grated carrots (from 2 medium carrots)
3 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
Pickling cucumbers work well here because they have less moisture. If using garden-variety cucumbers, or those with thick skins, peel them, slice in half lengthwise, and remove the seeds before slicing them crosswise.
The Dijon honey dill dipping sauce can be prepared in advance and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator until needed. It will last for up to 1 week.
Cook the rice, following the directions on the back of the package. In a small dish, combine the sake, vinegar, and sugar, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Stir the dressing into the cooked rice while it is still warm. Set aside.
> MAKE THE DIJON HONEY DILL DIPPING SAUCE
Combine all the ingredients in a small serving bowl and mix well with a spoon.
Line a 12-well classic cupcake pan with plastic wrap by overlapping 2 long pieces of plastic wrap along the center of the pan, leaving a 3-inch (7.5-cm) border of plastic wrap overhanging all sides of the pan.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil with the salt. Drop the snow peas into the pot and stir once, then cook until crisp and tender but still green, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain immediately in a colander, running cold water over the peas to stop the cooking. Julienne the snow peas lengthwise; set aside.
Using scissors, cut the nori into 3-by-3-inch (9-by-9-cm) quarters, for a total of 24 squares. Place 1 piece of nori in the bottom of each well. Layer the other ingredients over the nori in each well in the following order:
1 heaping tablespoon rice
enough snow peas to cover the rice
1 slice salmon
sprinkle of scallions
3 slices cucumber
1 slice salmon
sprinkle of scallions
3 slices cucumber
generous sprinkle of carrot
sprinkle of sesame seeds
salmon to cover the surface
rice
nori
Make sure to fill the wells to the top. If you have extra of any of the layering items, press into the wells gently to make room for them. You can add extra layers as long as you end with rice and nori on top. Tuck the sides of the nori into the wells to seal the sandwiches.
Wrap the pan in another layer of plastic wrap and press down firmly to compact the ingredients; chill for 1 hour or overnight. Remove the top layer of plastic wrap, then lift up on the edges of the plastic wrap lining the wells of the pan to remove the sandwiches. Serve the sandwiches with the Dijon honey dill dipping sauce on the side.
VARIATION If you prefer to remove the “west” from this east-west fusion dish, serve the sandwiches with pickled ginger, wasabi, and soy sauce instead of the mustard dill dipping sauce. If you do this, omit the toasted sesame seeds from the recipe.
WRAPPING THE CAKES with leeks helps hold in moisture, keeping these scrumptious bites full of flavor. It doesn’t hurt that they look wonderful, too. I suggest serving them chilled on a bed of greens with dressing on the side. If served for dinner, scalloped potatoes would make an excellent accompaniment.
Don’t skip the homemade bread crumbs. The dusty crumbs that most people purchase from the store are not what I mean when I say bread crumbs. The difference in the final product is very different. Dust creates a dense and moistureless end result; crumbs create a fluffy and moist outcome.
6 leeks
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 slices white bread, crusts removed
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 large cloves garlic, chopped, or 2 tablespoons garlic from a tube
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion, cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
2 stalks celery, cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
1/2 red pepper, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
2 large eggs
1/2 cup (40 g) chopped fresh parsley or parsley from a tube
2 tablespoons chopped capers
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Old Bay Seasoning
1/4 cup (60 ml) mayonnaise
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 1/2 pounds (680 g) fresh salmon fillet, skin and bones removed
Nonstick cooking spray, for the pan
Impress your guests at your next luncheon by assembling the cakes a day in advance, then popping them in the oven right before serving.
Trim the rough dark green tops and the bottoms from the leeks, and remove the tough outer leaves. Cut each leek in half lengthwise, separate the inner leaves, and soak them in water to remove any grit. Remove the leeks from the water, making sure to rinse them well. You will need 24 leaves total; cut them in half so you have 4 pieces of leek for each well.
In a large sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter, then add the leeks and thyme and sauté until the leeks are pliable, but not soft and mushy, 6 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then taste an outer portion of leek; it should be easy to bite into.
Transfer the leeks to a sheet pan. Separate the leaves and spread them out so they don’t continue to cook. Set aside until cool to the touch.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a food processor fitted with a blade, pulverize the slices of bread. Transfer to a medium bowl and toss with the butter and garlic. Place the crumbs on a baking sheet and bake until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside to cool. Do not turn off the oven.
Heat the butter and oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and red pepper and sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl to cool.
In a small bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the parsley, capers, hot sauce, Worcestershire, Old Bay, mayonnaise, and mustard, and whisk to combine. Pour the egg mixture over the cooled vegetable mixture and mix until well combined.
> ASSEMBLE THE CAKES
Place the salmon in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a blade. Pulse until just flaked; do not pulverize. Add the salmon and the bread crumbs to the vegetable mixture and stir to combine thoroughly.
Spray a 12-well classic cupcake pan with cooking spray. Line each well with 4 leek pieces, crisscrossing them on the bottom and making sure that no spaces are left uncovered. The leeks will overhang the wells. Do not trim them; they will be folded over the filling after the terrines are assembled. Working in batches, line 3 wells at a time in this way, then fill each with the salmon mixture, mounding it a little above the top; fold the ends of the leeks over the filling, pressing down gently to compact the vegetables.
Bake until cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool in the pan for 1 minute, then insert the tines of a fork between the pan and each cake to lift it out.
Store the cakes in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Reheat, wrapped in tin foil, for 15 minutes at 350°F (175°C).
THIS SALAD IS A DREAM COME TRUE. All of the classic French flavors come together in this beautifully layered presentation without the lettuce fighting for attention. The most important ingredient here is the tuna. I use Italian tonno, dark tuna packed in pure olive oil. The roasted tomatoes in oil have a fresh zesty flavor that is essential in bringing the dish together. Don’t confuse them with sun-dried tomatoes, which have an earthy flavor. This is ideal as an hors d’oeuvre or a main-course salad.
3 large eggs
8 small potatoes, such as fingerling, Russian, banana, or purple
FOR THE HERBED VINAIGRETTE ASPIC
1 1/2 cups (360 ml) white balsamic or white wine vinegar
2 (1/4-ounce / 7-g) packets unflavored gelatin
1 tablespoon capers, chopped
1 teaspoon chopped shallot
3 tablespoons chopped fresh fennel bulb
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or parsley from a tube
3 tablespoons freshly snipped chives
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup (60 ml) olive oil
FOR THE ASSEMBLY (SEE SIDEBAR ON this page)
8 ounces (225 g) fresh green beans, blanched, or 1 pound (455 g) frozen green beans, thawed
2 (5-ounce / 150-g) cans Italian tonno packed in olive oil, drained
1/2 cup (90 g) pitted Niçoise olives
1 (2-ounce / 340-g) can oil-packed anchovies, drained
1 cup (240 g) roasted tomatoes in oil
Lettuce of your choice
Olive oil
Fresh lemon juice
In a small saucepan, cover the eggs by 2 inches (5 cm) with cold water and bring to a boil. Turn off the heat, cover, and let rest for 10 minutes. Rinse under cold water to cool. Peel the eggs and cut each one into 4 rounds, for a total of 12 slices.
In a medium saucepan, cover the potatoes by 2 inches (5 cm) with cold water. Bring to a boil, and cook until fork tender, about 12 minutes. Run the potatoes under cold water to cool. Cut each one crosswise into 3 slices, for a total of 24 slices.
> MAKE THE HERBED VINAIGRETTE ASPIC
In a small saucepan, bring the vinegar just to a boil. Sprinkle it with the gelatin, then stir to combine and let sit for 5 minutes.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining ingredients. Pour the gelatin over the herb mixture just before assembly.
Line a 12-well classic cupcake pan with plastic wrap by overlapping 2 long pieces of plastic wrap along the center of the pan, leaving at least a 3-inch (7.5-cm) border of plastic wrap overhanging all sides of the pan.
Layer the ingredients in each well in the following order, gently pressing down on each layer:
1 slice egg
1 tablespoon herbed vinaigrette
2 slices potato
4 green beans
Evenly distribute, in the following order, the tuna, olives, anchovies, and tomato in each well, then evenly distribute the remaining vinaigrette among the wells.
Wrap the pan in another layer of plastic wrap, pressing down on the wells once more, and chill for 2 hours or up to 2 days.
Remove the top layer of plastic wrap, then lift up on the edges of the plastic wrap lining the wells of the pan to remove the salads. Serve the salads together on a platter of beautiful lettuce that has been tossed with a light coating of olive oil and fresh lemon juice.
TUNA: You can substitute raw sushi-grade tuna or white albacore tuna packed in water. I recommend the Italian because the flavor is unsurpassable. If you want to use fresh tuna instead, you will need to season it. Toss it in some of the vinaigrette before layering it.
ANCHOVIES: Anchovy is traditional in this salad and can be used if you are a fan. I’d suggest that you use white anchovies.
GREEN BEANS: If you use fresh green beans, blanch them, but you could save yourself a step by using a package of thawed frozen beans.
To blanch fresh green beans, fill a medium saucepan with salted water and bring to a boil. Drop the beans into the water all at once. After 3 minutes, they will be bright green and ready to go. Drain them immediately in a colander and rinse in cold water to stop the cooking.
OLIVES: Niçoise olives are a must; there is no substitution.
ROASTED TOMATOES IN OIL: You can find these in the olive bar section of the market.
ASIAN CUISINE can be a bit time consuming, but the intricate flavors of this dish make it more than worth the effort. This is honestly one of my favorite foods! I could live on rice paper filled with all things fresh, zesty, and surprising forever. This summer-roll-cum-mini-meal is a fantastic way to create an otherwise labor-intensive delight. Rolling the wrappers when making summer rolls can be a challenge, especially when they are overstuffed. Here, I’ve created a simple way to fill your rice paper and ensure a perfect result.
6 tablespoons (75 g) sugar
1 Thai chile (or jalapeño), seeded and thinly sliced, or 1 tablespoon sriracha chile sauce
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh ginger or ginger from a tube
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (80 ml) fresh lime juice (from 3 limes)
1/4 cup (60 ml) nam pla (fish sauce)
2 tablespoons smooth peanut butter
1 pound (455 g) shelled soybeans, frozen or fresh
1 bunch cilantro, washed and stemmed
2 tablespoon nam pla (fish sauce)
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 Thai chile (or jalapeño), seeded and minced, or 1 tablespoon sriracha chile sauce
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 tablespoons peanut oil or toasted sesame oil
1 (12-ounce / 340-g) package Vietnamese rice paper (bánh tráng)
2 ripe Hass avocados, pitted and thinly sliced (see Note, this page)
2 small Kirby or pickling cucumbers, thinly sliced into rounds (see Notes)
1 cup (110 g) freshly grated carrots (see Notes, this page)
6 ounces (170 g) sushi-grade tuna, cut into 1/4-inch (6-mm) dice
1 cup (40 g) fresh cilantro leaves, thinly sliced (see Notes), plus 12 additional cilantro sprigs for garnish
24 fresh mint leaves, thinly sliced (see Notes)
3 scallions, white and light green parts thinly sliced on the bias
Bibb lettuce leaves, for serving
The peanut and soybean dipping sauces can be made in advance and stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator until needed. They will last for up to 1 week.
> MAKE THE PEANUT DIPPING SAUCE
In a small serving bowl, whisk together the sugar, chile, ginger, lime juice, fish sauce, and peanut butter. Set aside.
> MAKE THE SOYBEAN DIPPING SAUCE
In a blender, combine the soybeans, cilantro, fish sauce, garlic, chile, lime juice, and oil with 1/2 cup (120 ml) water. Blend until the sauce is smooth, using a rubber spatula to occasionally scrape down the sides. Transfer the sauce to a small serving bowl and set aside.
Line a 12-well classic cupcake pan with plastic wrap by overlapping 2 long pieces of plastic wrap along the center of the pan, leaving at least a 3-inch (7.5-cm) border of plastic wrap overhanging all sides of the pan.
In a large bowl filled with warm tap water, soak 1 rice paper wrapper for about 15 seconds or until soft. Gently swirl the wrapper in the water with your fingers, being careful not to puncture the paper. (Do not leave the wrapper in the water or it will become soggy.) Lay the wrapper on a paper towel to absorb any excess water, then fold it to fit a well of the pan. It will overhang the edges of the well. Repeat with the remaining wells.
Layer your ingredients in the rice paper–lined wells in this order: avocado, cucumber, carrots, tuna, cilantro, mint, scallions.
Fold the overhanging rice paper over the filling to seal. Wrap the pan in another layer of plastic wrap (make sure the plastic wrap is pulled tight and without holes, as the rice paper will harden if it is exposed to air). Refrigerate for 1 hour or up to 1 day.
Remove the top layer of plastic wrap, then lift up on the edges of the plastic wrap lining the wells of the pan to remove the summer rolls. Invert the rolls on beds of Bibb lettuce. Top each with a cilantro sprig, and serve the dipping sauces, side by side, in small ramekins.
VARIATION Try replacing the tuna with 6 ounces (170 g) of cooked baby shrimp or an equal amount of cooked chicken. I sometimes make a batch of the tuna version paired with pickled ginger, wasabi, and the soybean dipping sauce, and another batch with shrimp or chicken paired with the peanut dipping sauce.
If you want to avoid eating raw fish, substitute 1 1/2 cups (265 g) soaked rice noodles (from one 6-ounce / 170-g package). To soak the noodles, cover them with boiling water in a small bowl and let them sit for 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.
Kirby cucumbers are smaller and have fewer seeds than other types of cucumbers, which also means they have less moisture. That makes them perfect for working with rice paper as they won’t make the papers mushy.
Layer the mint or cilantro leaves on top of one another, then thinly slice the stack.
