The banquet began like many others. There were eight appetizers: Paper-thin slices of fresh ginger were interlaced with crab. Crispy-fried beef was seasoned with chiles and orange peel. Steamed river shrimps were served with dodder, a vine in the morning glory family that is credited with quelling dizziness, and thin strips of succulent red-cooked eel, recommended for combating fatigue and alleviating hemorrhoids.
The main entrées were also sumptuous: There were sea cucumbers, which tone the kidney; red-cooked turtle, the ultimate yin delicacy; and luscious prawns with Chinese yam, which is a tonic for the lungs, spleen, and kidneys.
We were in Shanghai, but this meal was not at one of the city’s many notable restaurants. We were eating in the private dining room of the Shanghai College of Traditional Medicine as guests of the college’s president and Professor Xue Ru Yu, a practicing doctor and teacher there. Dr. Yu has also devoted the past sixteen years to the study of food as medicine.
Dr. Yu’s research is exemplary of a new field in Chinese medicine called “dietotherapy.” “Dietotherapy refers to the treatment of certain diseases by consuming common foods,” Dr. Yu said as we feasted on tender quail served with cordyceps, an herb that enriches bone marrow and builds qi in the body.
Dr. Yu explained that her work has two stages: First she investigates the food’s nature and ability to prevent and treat disease by researching ancient texts. Next, the clinical aspect comes into play as, in some cases, the food is combined with herbs, and then administered to patients for results.
Later that day, we were treated to another extraordinary meal. This time it was prepared at the Changhai Hospital in the outskirts of Shanghai. Here, master chefs under the direction of Yuan Zeng Xi, a nutritionist, prepared such extraordinary specialties as stir-fried shrimp with wolfberries, rolled fish with jade skin syrup, bean curd dumplings, and melon balls with the essence of rose petals. Ms. Xi explained that all of the dishes were developed by the Shanghai Medicated Diet and Dietotherapy experts, specially designed to nourish, preserve, and bolster good health, and to prevent disease.
The concept of dietotherapy is by no means new to China. But to consider it a science, which is now being taught in schools and used in selected hospitals, is quite recent. At the Academy of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Beijing, Dr. Jingfeng Cai, author of Eating Your Way to Health—Dietotherapy in Traditional Chinese Medicine (Foreign Language Press, 1988), is another pioneer.
“During the last few decades, cancer and cardiovascular diseases have replaced infectious diseases in China as a common threat to good health,” Dr. Yu said. “These types of diseases, especially cardiovascular and some types of cancer, are closely tied to food habits.”
As these doctors and others have noted, Chinese food habits (in China) have changed radically in the last few years. Previously the Chinese diet was based on staples, such as rice, noodles, breads, and other grains, with fresh and pickled vegetables, seafoods, and meats served as garnishes. But as the Chinese have prospered, they have revised their daily regimen, increasing the amount of meat and decreasing the amount of rice and other staples. As a result, their health has suffered, and they are now developing the “diseases of prosperity,” such as diabetes, heart disease, hypertension, and cancer. (This fact has been proven conclusively by the Cornell, China, and Oxford Project on Nutrition, Health, and Environment, which began in 1983 and published its first results in 1990. The study is still ongoing.)
Eating rice or other grains as a staple can be traced back thousands of years. In the Book of Songs, written during the Chou period (1122 to 256 B.C.), it is stated, “The meat that he eats must at the very most not be enough to make his breath smell of meat rather than rice.”
Rice, millet, sorghum, and wheat have long been highly regarded by the Chinese both for their nutritional value and their ability to flourish in different climates. While some grains are credited with different properties for various ailments, most are considered the neutralizers of the food chain. Rice tones the middle region, strengthens the spleen, harmonizes the stomach, and energizes. Wheat nourishes the heart, benefits the kidneys, and clears heat from the body. Most important, grains help to provide balance, the key to good health.
As Paul Pitchford writes in his masterful book, Healing with Whole Foods: Oriental Traditions and Modern Nutrition (North Atlantic Books, 1993), “If prepared in balance with individual needs, grains satisfy hunger and taste, provide energy and endurance, calm nerves, and encourage deep sleep.”
Rice is the staff of life in much of Asia and, depending on the area, the rice may vary: The Japanese prefer short-grain sticky or sweet rice. The Chinese in Hong Kong and China like long-grain, while those in Taiwan like a slightly shorter grain. In much of the rest of Asia, particularly Thailand and Vietnam, long-grain jasmine rice is the rice of choice. Personally, I love the slightly nutty flavor of jasmine or basmati rice. Both of these varieties are available at well-stocked supermarkets.
SIX SERVINGS
2¾ cups long-grain rice
4¼ cups water
1. Put the rice in a saucepan and, using your fingers as a rake, rinse it under cold running water to remove some of the talc. Drain it in a colander.
2. Place the rice and water in a heavy saucepan with a lid. Heat uncovered until the water boils. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer about 17 to 18 minutes, or until the water has evaporated and craters appear on the surface. Remove from the heat and fluff lightly with a fork to separate the grains. Serve immediately or, if using it for fried rice, spread the rice out in a thin layer on a tray. Let it cool completely, cover with plastic wrap, and chill in the refrigerator overnight.
To steam rice: Fill a wok or a pot with water for steaming and heat until boiling. Spread the rice in a steamer tray lined with damp cheesecloth or parchment paper, or in a lined pie plate, with a tunafish can, both ends removed, for support. Place the steamer tray over boiling water, cover, and steam 35 to 40 minutes, or until tender. Fluff the rice with a fork and serve or spread out and chill on a tray as directed above.
Steamed Rice with Roasted Pine Nuts: Prepare the rice as directed in the recipe above, undercooking it by 10 minutes for each method. Toast ¼ cup pine nuts until golden in a 300°F. oven, about 20 minutes, turning the nuts occasionally so that they cook evenly. Sprinkle the pine nuts over the almost cooked rice and mix them in with 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and continue cooking for 10 minutes, or until tender. Serve.
Chinese newborns who cannot tolerate their mothers’ milk are often given an ancient remedy of a tea made from pan-roasted rice steeped in hot water. It is believed to soothe and strengthen the stomach.
Cinnamon is considered one of the most warming herbs by the Chinese, since it is reputed to enhance circulation. Chinese cinnamon is from a type of laurel tree cultivated only in China. It marries particularly well with other seasonings, like the curry in this fried rice dish. Other vegetables and cubed meat may be added as garnishes.
SIX SERVINGS
4 sticks cinnamon
3¾ cups water
2 cups long-grain rice
2½ teaspoons safflower or corn oil
1½ cups thinly sliced leeks
1½ tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons good-quality curry powder
3 to 4 carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1½ cups)
3 to 4 turnips, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice (about 1½ cups)
3½ tablespoons rice wine or sake ½ cup water
1½ cups cooked peas (if using frozen, thaw to room temperature)
Sauce (mixed together)
1½ tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine or sake
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Put the cinnamon sticks and the water in a pot and bring to a boil. Cook about 5 minutes over medium heat. Under cold running water, rinse the rice in a saucepan until the water runs clear. Drain and add the rice to the cinnamon water. Bring the water to a boil again, reduce the heat to low, and cover. Simmer covered for 17 minutes, or until craters appear in the surface of the rice and the water has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and fluff the cooked grains with a fork. Cover and let sit for 15 minutes, then uncover and spread the rice out on a cookie sheet with a fork to cool completely. Discard the cinnamon sticks. (The rice should be cold or at least room temperature before stir-frying.)
2. Heat a wok or large skillet. Add the safflower or corn oil and heat until hot. Add the leeks and garlic, and stir-fry over medium heat until slightly softened and translucent. Add the curry powder and stir-fry for 10 seconds, until fragrant. Add the carrots, turnips, rice wine, and water, and partially cover. Cook about 5 to 8 minutes, until tender, then add the cooked rice, breaking it up with a spatula. Add the peas and the premixed Sauce. Toss lightly to coat the ingredients and spoon into a serving dish. Serve hot.
Chinese cassia, or cinnamon, has been used by Asian doctors for thousands of years in treating colds, rheumatism, and diarrhea. Chinese scientists have discovered that it lowers high blood pressure and acts as a sedative. When consumed in large quantities, it will create a “hot” condition and should then be counteracted with coolish foods, such as mung beans and chrysanthemum tea. For coughs and sore throats, boil several strips in water, and inhale the vapors.
When I lived in Taipei, my surrogate Chinese mother would often make this as a meal-in-one dinner or Sunday lunch. The ingredients would vary depending on the seafood or vegetables in season or available.
SIX SERVINGS
½ pound firm-fleshed fish fillet, such as haddock, red snapper, or lake trout
½ pound medium shrimp, shelled
Marinade
3 tablespoons rice wine or sake
1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon sesame oil
½ pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed
1 teaspoon safflower or corn oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed lightly with the flat side of a knife
1 Chinese (Napa) cabbage, about 1½ pounds, cut into 2-inch squares, stem and leafy sections separated
1⁄3 cup rice wine or sake
4 cups Classic Chicken Broth
1 teaspoon salt
2¼ cups long-grain rice
1 bunch (½ pound) enoki mushrooms, stem ends trimmed, rinsed lightly, and drained
½ square firm tofu, about ½ pound, cut into ¼-inch dice (optional)
2 whole scallions, ends trimmed, cut into thin diagonal slices
Mongolian Sauce (mixed together)
¾ cup soy sauce
3½ tablespoons rice wine or sake
3½ tablespoons Chinese black vinegar or Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons minced scallions, white part only
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon hot chile paste (optional)
1. Cut the fish into 1-inch-square chunks and place them in a bowl. Cut the shrimp along the back almost all the way to butterfly them, and put them in the bowl with the fish. Add the Marinade, and stir to coat. Let the seafood marinate for 20 minutes. Cut the shiitake mushroom caps into thin slices.
2. Heat a 4-quart Dutch oven or a covered casserole, add the oil, and heat until hot, about 30 seconds. Add the garlic cloves and cabbage stems, and stir-fry for a minute over medium-high heat. Add the rice wine, and toss lightly, then cover and cook for 1½ minutes. Uncover, add the remaining cabbage, chicken broth, and salt. Partially cover and, once the broth reaches a boil, simmer for 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, put the rice in a bowl and, using your fingers as a rake, rinse it under cold water until the water runs clear. Drain it in a colander. Arrange the rice evenly over the bottom of a 4-quart casserole ora Dutch oven, and pour the cabbage with the broth on top. Cover, and cook on top of the stove for 15 minutes.
4. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Arrange the mushrooms and tofu in separate piles over the rice, leaving a space for the seafood. Cover and bake for 10 minutes. Uncover and arrange the seafood over the rice. Cover and bake another 8 minutes, or until the fish flakes when prodded with a fork.
5. Remove the casserole from the oven and sprinkle the scallions over the top. Let the food sit covered fora minute. Then spoon out individual portions of seafood, mushrooms, tofu, and rice into serving bowls, and sprinkle with the Mongolian Sauce. Serve immediately.
This one-pot seafood rice dish is a wonderful meal-in-one lunch or dinner. The different components of fish (cold) balanced by the vegetables (cooling) and spicy sauce (hot), all complemented by the rice (neutral), make it a nicely balanced meal.
Depending on the season and availability, I add whatever mushrooms happen to be on hand. Serve this as a side course-staple with barbecued or baked meat, seafood or chicken, or with soup as a light lunch or dinner.
SIX SERVINGS
2 tablespoons corn or safflower oil
8 cloves garlic, smashed lightly with the flat side of a knife, and sliced thinly
½ pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, rinsed, drained, stem ends trimmed, and caps thinly sliced
½ pound cremini mushrooms, rinsed, drained, stem ends trimmed, and caps thinly sliced
3 tablespoons rice wine or sake
2 cups minced scallion greens
5 cups cooked rice, chilled
3½ tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons chicken broth
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1. Heat a wok or large, heavy skillet over high heat. Add the oil and heat until hot. Add the garlic and mushrooms and stir-fry for 1 to 2 minutes, until slightly softened. Lower the heat to medium high and add the rice wine. Partially cover and cook for 3½ minutes, or until the mushrooms are tender. Uncover, add the scallions, and cook, tossing, to reduce the liquid by half.
2. Add the rice, breaking it up with a spatula. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, until heated through. Add the soy sauce, chicken broth, salt, and black pepper, and toss lightly to coat. Add the cilantro, toss to mix, and spoon the rice onto a platter and serve.
During cold and flu season, I double the amount of shiitake mushrooms and add maitake for good measure, since both varieties bolster the immune system.
Drawing inspiration from Cantonese cooks, who make a famous scallion-ginger noodle dish, I do the same with rice. This is delicious as an accompaniment to grilled, steamed, or stir-fried seafood. The rice is stir-fried until it’s just heated through. Add a simple stir-fried or steamed green vegetable and you have a veritable feast.
SIX SERVINGS
2 tablespoons corn or canola oil
2½ cups minced whole scallions
3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1⁄3 cup rice wine or sake
2½ cups bean sprouts, rinsed and drained
5 cups cooked rice, chilled, then separated with a fork
Sauce (mixed together)
3 tablespoons chicken broth
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1½ teaspoons salt, or to taste
1⁄3 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat a well-seasoned wok or a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the oil and heat until very hot. Add the scallions and ginger, and stir-fry over high heat until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the rice wine and bean sprouts, and toss lightly about 1 minute.
2. Add the rice and stir-fry about 2 to 3 minutes, until heated through. Add the premixed Sauce and toss lightly with a slotted spoon to coat the ingredients. Spoon onto a platter and serve.
Rice is normally a neutral food, but with the addition of scallions and fresh ginger the overall effect is warming.
Shrimp Fried Rice is a Cantonese classic, and this is my adaptation. Unlike many of the versions prepared in Cantonese-American restaurants, authentic Shrimp Fried Rice is seasoned with salt, not soy sauce, which can darken the grains. I add a tiny bit of soy sauce, just for extra flavor.
SIX SERVINGS
2 tablespoons corn or safflower oil
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 cups minced whole scallions
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
¾ pound peeled, cooked shrimp, sliced in half along the back
1¾ cups cooked fresh or defrosted frozen peas (10-ounce package)
5 cups cooked rice, chilled, and separated with a fork
Sauce (mixed together)
2 tablespoons chicken broth
2 tablespoons rice wine
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat a wok or large skillet, add the oil, and heat until hot. Add the eggs and stir-fry over high heat about 30 seconds to scramble them. Add the minced scallions and ginger and stir-fry about 1 minute.
2. Add the shrimp and peas and toss lightly to heat through, then add the rice. Stir-fry about 2 to 3 minutes, until heated through. Add the premixed Sauce and toss lightly to coat all the ingredients. Spoon the shrimp fried rice into a serving bowl and serve.
Brown rice used to be available only at health food stores. These days it is sold in most supermarkets, and different varieties, such as brown basmati rice, are even offered.
SIX SERVINGS
2½ cups long-grain brown rice
4¼ cups water
1. Put the rice in a pot and, using your fingers as a rake, rinse it under cold running water. Drain it in a colander.
2. Place the water in a heavy saucepan with a lid. Heat uncovered until the water reaches a boil, add the rice, boil again, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 35 to 40 minutes, until the rice is just tender. Remove from the heat and fluff lightly with a fork to separate the grains. Serve hot with food, or cool before stir-frying: Drain the rice in a colander and let it cool, stirring from time to time, then spread it out on a tray. You may refrigerate before using. Use as directed in the following recipes.
Brown rice is prescribed for nausea, diarrhea, and mental depression. It is believed to strengthen the spleen and pancreas and increase the body’s qi.
The brown rice in this dish adds just the right balance to the barbecued pork and leeks, and you can add soy sauce without worrying about muddying up the rice. This is a wonderful meal in itself.
SIX SERVINGS
1 pound center-cut pork loin (or purchase barbecued pork loin in Chinatown or use leftover roasted pork)
Barbecue Sauce
¼ cup hoisin sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon ketchup
½ to ¾ teaspoon five-spice powder (optional)
1½ tablespoons corn or canola oil
1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2½ cups minced leeks, cleaned thoroughly
1½ pound fresh snow peas, ends snapped, veiny strings removed, and cut diagonally in half
2½ tablespoons rice wine
5 cups cooked brown rice, chilled, then separated with a fork (see preceding recipe)
Sauce (mixed together)
3½ tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon chicken broth
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. To prepare the barbecued pork, trim any fat or gristle from the meat. Mix the Barbecue Sauce ingredients in a bowl, add the pork, and toss to coat. Place the pork in a baking pan lined with aluminum foil, and roast for 30 to 45 minutes, until cooked through. Let it cool, then cut it into thin slices about ¼ inch thick, and then into small dice about ½ inch square. Skip this step if you are using already barbecued or roasted pork.
2. Heat a wok or large skillet, add the oil, and heat until hot. Add the ginger and leeks, and toss lightly over high heat about 1½ minutes. Add the snow peas and cook briefly, then add the rice wine and stir-fry over high heat for a minute until crisp-tender. Add the brown rice, breaking it up with a spatula. Cook about 2 to 3 minutes, tossing, until heated through. Add the cooked pork and the premixed Sauce and toss lightly to coat. Spoon the rice into a serving dish and serve.
Try this recipe with seafood, beef, turkey, or pork as well as with chicken. The black bean sauce has a vibrant flavor, and the snow peas and red onions add color and a pleasing crunchiness.
SIX SERVINGS
Garlic Marinade
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 whole boned chicken breast (about ¾ pound), split and skinned, or an already cooked chicken breast
2½ tablespoons corn or safflower oil
Seasonings
3 tablespoons fermented black beans, rinsed, drained, and minced
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1 red onion, diced (about 1½ cups)
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced (about 1 cup)
½ pound snow peas, ends snapped and strings removed, cut into ¼-inch crosswise strips
5 cups cooked brown rice, chilled, then separated with a fork
Sauce (mixed together)
1 tablespoon chicken broth
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons rice wine or sake
1 teaspoon sugar
1. Combine the Marinade and chicken breast halves in a bowl; toss to coat them. Prepare the remaining ingredients.
2. Heat a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add ½ tablespoon of the oil and heat until hot. Add the chicken and cook for 6 to 7 minutes on each side, or until cooked thoroughly. Let it cool thoroughly, then cut it into ¼-inch dice.
3. Reheat the skillet or a wok over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and heat until hot. Add the Seasonings and stir-fry for 15 to 20 seconds, then add the diced onion and pepper and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the snow peas and rice. Cook, tossing, about 1½ to 2 minutes, until heated through. Add the premixed Sauce, and cooked chicken, and toss lightly to coat all the ingredients. Spoon the dish into a serving bowl, and serve immediately.
According to Albert Leung, fermented black beans are prepared in a rather complicated process that involves first soaking the small black soybeans in water with mulberry leaves and a wormwood herb, then fermenting them in salt. They are sometimes used in the treatment of burns, which, once treated with this herb, are said to heal with no scars.
Professor Weng Weijian of the Beijing College of Traditional Chinese Medicine has the skin of a baby, remarkably sparkling eyes, and a lively manner. In his seventies, he claims that all are a testament to his diet and his beliefs in the rejuvenating and healthful powers of food and diet.
In addition to his professorial duties, he is a consultant to a number of companies developing functional foods, the inventor of Tang Long Beauty Slimming Wine, Anti-Snoring Drops, and Weng’s Health and Beauty Tea. Professor Weijian is also the author of Chinese Herbal Foods to Enhance Your Health. And one of his favorite topics is congee.
“Healthy and therapeutic congees have a long and rich history in China,” he says. “As early as the pre-Qin period [221–207 B.c.], there is a record of an illness-curing millet soup.”
We know congee mainly as rice porridge, but in fact it may be made with any type of grain, including millet, sorghum, barley, and wheat. The amount of rice is often a fraction of that of the water, and it may be cooked for up to four hours. Some say the longer the congee cooks, the more therapeutic it becomes.
According to Dr. Weijian, optional nuts and dried fruits, such as dates, walnuts, or chestnuts, should be added at the beginning of the cooking period, with the uncooked grain and water. Vegetables can either be precooked and added at the end or cooked until tender with the rice.
For an herbal congee, the herbs should first be steeped in water; then the strained liquid is added to the cooked congee before serving. The following congees are suggested for treating certain conditions:
Congee, or rice porridge, is often one of the first solid foods that Chinese babies eat, so it is easy to understand why most Chinese develop a passion for it. Few things are as soothing or as comforting, especially for an upset stomach. In southern China, congee with assorted pickles, dried meat, or seafood—even the previous dinner’s leftovers-are served universally for breakfast. Similarly, it is wonderful as a midday or evening snack. Many Chinese use long-grain rice, but, like the Japanese, I prefer the creamy consistency of congee made with short-grain rice.
SIX SERVINGS
1 cup short-grain or Arborio rice
8 cups water or chicken broth (preferably Classic Chicken Broth)
1 teaspoon salt
Garnishes
Cucumber pickle*
Dried pickled turnip*
4 tablespoons minced scallion greens
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
* May be purchased at any Asian market.
1. Put the rice in a pot and, using your fingers as a rake, rinse it under cold running water to remove some of the talc, then drain it in a colander.
2. Put the rice and water in a heavy saucepan with a lid. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, uncovered. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. The resulting liquid will be a thick porridge with the consistency of heavy cream. Serve with any of the above garnishes, or reheated leftover meat, chicken, or seafood and vegetable dishes.
Asparagus Congee: Prepare the Plain Congee as directed above and mix the cooked congee with 1½ pounds cooked asparagus, cut into ¼-inch rounds.
Wild Mushroom Congee: Prepare the Wild Mushroom mixture as described in Wild Mushroom Fried Rice and mix with the cooked congee.
Whenever my surrogate Chinese brothers and sister had the flu, my Chinese mother would make them a pot of this congee, which was generously garnished with diced pork, sweet potatoes, carrots, and peas—or other vegetables, depending on their availability at the market.
SIX SERVINGS
½ pound center-cut pork loin, trimmed of fat or gristle
Marinade
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons rice wine or sake
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
2 sweet potatoes, peeled
2 carrots, ends trimmed and peeled
1 cup long-grain rice
1 tablespoon safflower or corn oil
12 cups low-salt chicken broth
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups frozen peas, defrosted to room temperature
3 tablespoons minced scallion greens
1. Cut the pork loin across the grain into slices about ¼ inch thick, then cut into ¼-inch dice. Put the meat in a bowl, add the Marinade, and toss lightly to coat. Cover with plastic wrap, and let the pork marinate for 20 minutes.
2. Cut the sweet potatoes and carrots into ¼-inch dice.
3. Clean the rice as directed in step 1 of Plain Congee (opposite page).
4. Heat a large casserole or Dutch oven, add the oil, and heat until very hot. Add the pork and stir-fry over high heat until cooked, about 2 minutes. Scoop out into a bowl and blot the pan with paper towels.
5. Add the rice and chicken broth to the casserole and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer for 40 minutes. Add the diced sweet potato and carrot, and continue cooking another 20 minutes. Add the pepper, the peas, the cooked pork, and salt to taste if necessary. Stir to blend the seasonings evenly. Ladle the congee into serving bowls and sprinkle a little of the minced scallion on top. Serve.
I have always been a fan of turkey soup. At Thanksgiving, I wait impatiently until the carcass is clean enough to start making soup. These days, with turkey parts widely available year round, you can make this dish anytime. It’s a nourishing and soothing meal in itself.
SIX SERVINGS
1½ pounds turkey bones or turkey parts
12 cups water
1⁄3 cup rice wine
3 slices fresh ginger, about the size of a quarter, smashed lightly with the side of a knife
3 whole scallions, ends trimmed, smashed lightly with the side of a knife
1 pound turkey meat, trimmed of fat or gristle
Marinade
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons rice wine
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1½ onions, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 cup whole-grain barley or pearl barley, rinsed and drained
3 carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
3 stalks celery, ends trimmed and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Put the turkey parts, water, rice wine, ginger, and scallions in a large pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour. Remove the ginger and scallions.
2. While the stock is cooking, cut the turkey meat into ¼-inch dice. Put the diced turkey in a bowl, add the Marinade, and toss lightly to coat.
3. Add the turkey, onions, and barley to the stock, and continue cooking over low heat for 45 minutes, then add the carrots and celery and cook another 30 minutes. Remove the turkey bones, skim the surface to remove any impurities, and add salt and pepper to taste. Ladle into soup bowls and serve.
Whole-grain barley, with its bran and germ intact, is preferable to pearl barley. This cooling grain is excellent for settling the stomach. It is believed to aid digestion and often recommended for diabetics, who tend to have overheated blood systems.
This soothing congee has a silky consistency thanks to the short-grain rice. It’s delicate yet filling with the shiitakes and eggs. You may add a blanched green vegetable for additional color and nourishment.
SIX SERVINGS
1 cup short-grain or sweet (glutinous) rice
8 cups water
Seasonings
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons sweetened rice wine or mirin (if unavailable, substitute 1½ tablespoons rice wine and ½ tablespoon sugar)
1 teaspoon salt
1½ cups scallion greens or Chinese garlic chives, ends trimmed and cut into ¼-inch lengths
½ pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed, and cut into thin slices
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1. Put the rice in a pot and, using your fingers as a rake, rinse it under cold running water to remove some of the talc. Drain it in a colander.
2. Put the rice and water in a heavy saucepan with a lid. Heat uncovered until boiling. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover, and simmer for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
3. Add the Seasonings, stir, and add the scallions and mushrooms. Cook over low heat for 5 minutes, then add the beaten eggs. Stir and cook the eggs, about 1½ minutes. Remove from the heat and ladle into soup bowls. Serve.
This dough, once steamed, transforms into a light, airy bread thanks to the long rising period and the addition of baking powder in the final shaping. Make certain to thoroughly knead the powder into the dough so that the texture will be smooth and even. Once risen, the dough can be sculpted into myriad shapes.
2½ tablespoons sugar
1 cup warm water
½ tablespoon active dry yeast
3 cups all-purpose flour
1½ tablespoons corn oil
1. Mix the sugar and water in a small bowl with a wooden spoon, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then add the yeast and stir again to dissolve the yeast.
2. Put the flour in a large mixing bowl, add the yeast mixture and 1 tablespoon of the oil, and stir with the wooden spoon to form a rough dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, scraping the sides of the bowl. Knead lightly, until the dough is smooth and elastic, adding a little more flour if the dough is too sticky. (The consistency may vary slightly, depending on the weather: If the dough is too dry, add a little warm water.)
3. Brush the large mixing bowl with the remaining ½ tablespoon oil and put the dough in the bowl. Cover with a damp cloth and place in a draft-free place (like an oven). Let the dough rise for 3 hours, until tripled in bulk. Use as directed in the recipes.
Although wheat is slightly less nutritious than other grains, the Chinese credit it with nourishing the heart and mind, as well as improving insomnia and menopausal difficulties. And it is especially good for children and for frail individuals.
Flower buns are one of the easiest and most attractive shapes to make with Chinese Yeast Dough. I serve these rolls as an unusual replacement for rice with meat, vegetable, or seafood dishes.
MAKES 16 BUNS
1 recipe Chinese Yeast Dough, prepared as directed in preceding recipe
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
2½ tablespoons toasted sesame oil
¼ cup minced scallion greens or toasted sesame seeds
1. Turn the risen dough out onto a lightly floured working surface. Flatten into a circle with your hands and sprinkle the baking powder in the center. Sprinkle a tablespoon of water on top of the baking powder. Gather up the edges to enclose the baking powder and bring together and pinch in the center. Knead the dough thoroughly to incorporate the baking powder evenly.
2. Roll the dough out to a large rectangle measuring about 10 by 14 inches and ⅛ inch thick. Brush the surface with the toasted sesame oil. Starting with the long side, roll up the dough like a jelly roll. Pinch the ends to seal in the oil. Cut the roll crosswise into 16 sections with a sharp knife. Let the dough relax slightly, covered with a damp cloth, about 20 minutes.
3. Lightly stretch each portion of dough and wrap it maypole-style around your index finger, third finger, and thumb to form a ball, then tuck the ends underneath. Sprinkle the top with scallions or sesame seeds. Place the finished buns on a cookie sheet lined with waxed paper or parchment paper and let them rise for 20 minutes, covered with a cloth.
4. Fill a wok or a large pot with several inches of water and bring to a boil. Arrange the risen buns on a lightly oiled steaming tray or aluminum pie plate punched with holes. Perch the tray or plate over the boiling water (you can crisscross chopsticks or use a tunafish can with ends removed). Cover and steam for 15 minutes, or until the buns are light and springy. Remove with a spatula and serve hot or at room temperature. To reheat, steam for several minutes or microwave until hot, covered with a damp towel. Serve with any entrée instead of rice.
Flaky Scallion Pancakes
I will never forget my first taste of scallion pancakes as a student in Taipei. I bought them at a small stand next to the university where I was studying Mandarin. The aroma of fried scallions hit me first, causing my mouth to water. Freshly fried, the pancakes were crisp and slightly chewy. Serve these as a snack or a side dish with stir-fried meat, vegetables, or seafood.
MAKES 24 PANCAKES
3 cups cake flour
½ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons corn oil
1¾ cups boiling water
¼ cup or more all-purpose flour, if necessary, for kneading
¼ cup toasted sesame oil
¾ cup minced scallion greens
¾ cup canola or corn oil
1. Stir the flours and salt in a mixing bowl with a wooden spoon. Add the corn oil and the boiling water, and stir until a rough dough forms. If the dough is too soft, knead in about ¼ cup more flour. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5 minutes, or until smooth, kneading in more all-purpose flour as necessary. Cover with a cloth or wrap in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes, or longer if possible.
2. On a very lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a long snakelike roll about 1 inch in diameter. Cut the roll into 24 pieces. Keep the unused dough covered with a damp towel as you work.
3. With a rolling pin, roll out one piece of dough, cut side down on the work surface, into a 5-inch circle. Brush the top with a little sesame oil and sprinkle with some of the minced scallion greens. Roll up the circle like a jelly roll and pinch the ends to seal. Flatten the roll slightly with the rolling pin, and coil it into a snail shape, with the seam on the inside. Pinch the end to secure it and set aside on a lightly floured surface. Prepare the remaining pancakes, and let them rest for 30 minutes uncovered.
4. Reflour the work surface and roll each coiled pancake out to a 4-inch circle. Place them on a lightly floured tray. Let them rest for 30 minutes uncovered, or longer if possible. Preheat the oven to 200°F.
5. Heat a large, heavy skillet, add the oil, and heat to 350°F. Put a few of the pancakes in the pan, not touching, and fry over medium heat, turning once, until golden brown and crisp on both sides, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove with a spatula and drain briefly in a colander, then transfer to absorbent paper. Arrange the cooked pancakes on a cookie sheet and keep them warm in the oven while you fry the remaining pancakes, reheating the oil between batches. Serve immediately or keep them warm in the oven.
Scallion pancakes, with their fragrant scallion seasoning, are extremely warming, so they are ideal in the winter with meat dishes; they can be balanced, however, with coolish seafood entrées. I like to fry them in as little oil as possible.
Soba noodles with their classic Japanese broth (dashi) have come to be one of my favorite dishes in the whole world. The nutty noodles make a lovely contrast to the smoky soup. And this dish is so easy to make! I like this vegetarian rendition with wild mushrooms, but you can add chicken or shrimp if you like.
SIX SERVINGS
Dashi
1 four-inch square giant kelp (konbu)
5 cups cold water
1 cup dried bonito flakes (katsuo bushi)
½ pound fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems trimmed
4 ounces oyster or maitake mushrooms, stems trimmed
½ pound soba noodles
2½ tablespoons sweetened rice wine (mirin)
5 tablespoons soy sauce
4 whole scallions, ends trimmed and cut diagonally into ¼-inch lengths
1. To make the Dashi, clean the kelp if necessary with a damp cloth, removing any dirt. Put into a large saucepan together with the water and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove the kelp immediately and reserve for another use.
2. Bring the water to a boil again, add the bonito flakes, stir, then remove from the heat. Let the flakes settle to the bottom of the pan, about 1 minute, and strain the liquid through a fine strainer or a strainer lined with cheesecloth, into a Dutch oven or a casserole. Discard the bonito flakes.
3. Cut the mushrooms into thin slices.
4. Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Drop the soba into the water, and stir to prevent them from sticking together. Bring to a boil again and cook 3½ to 4 minutes, until just tender. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse under warm water. Drain again and divide the noodles among six serving bowls.
5. Add the sweetened rice wine and soy sauce to the dashi, and heat to a gentle boil. Add the mushrooms and scallions, and cook for 4 to 5 minutes over medium-high heat. Skim any impurities from the surface.
6. Ladle the mushrooms, scallions, and hot broth over the noodles and serve.
Soba noodles, which are made with buckwheat and wheat flour, were always considered a health food, and as early as 300 years ago were believed to relieve stress and cure ulcers. They cleanse and energize the body as well.
Udon are plump Japanese wheat-flour-and-water noodles that are usually served in soups and stews. I love them as much as I do soba. This dashi-based soup is soothing, filling, and satisfying.
SIX SERVINGS
Dashi
1 four-inch square giant kelp (konbu)
5 cups cold water
1 cup dried bonito flakes (katsuo bushi)
½ pound medium shrimp, shelled but tail intact
2 tablespoons rice wine or sake
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
½ pound udon or thick, round wheat-flour noodles, or spaghettini
2½ tablespoons sweetened rice wine (mirin)
5 tablespoons soy sauce
½ pound snow peas, ends snapped off and veiny strings removed
4 tablespoons minced scallion greens
1. Prepare the Dashi as directed in the preceding recipe.
2. Clean and devein the shrimp, leaving the tail intact. Place them in a bowl, add the rice wine and ginger, and toss lightly to coat.
3. Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Drop the udon into the water, and stir to prevent them from sticking together. Heat until boiling and cook 10 to 12 minutes, until just tender. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse under warm water. Drain again and divide the noodles among six serving bowls.
4. Pour the dashi, the sweetened rice wine, and the soy sauce into a casserole or a Dutch oven, and heat to a gentle boil. Add the shrimp, and cook for 1½ to 2 minutes over medium heat, or until just cooked. Skim any impurities from the surface. Add the snow peas and cook about 30 seconds. Ladle some of the shrimp, snow peas, and broth over each bowl of udon and sprinkle minced scallion greens on top. Serve.
This soup is the epitome of balance, making it an excellent meal by itself. The udon are deliciously filling and neutral, while the shrimp is nicely complemented by the rice wine and ginger.
In this popular Thai dish, the flat, silken rice noodles soak up the sweet and sour sauce and provide a superb foil to the tender tofu and crunchy bean sprouts.
SIX SERVINGS
1 pound firm tofu
4 tablespoons safflower or corn oil
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons minced garlic
Sauce (mixed together)
1⁄3 cup fish sauce
¼ cup ketchup
1½ tablespoons sugar
3 tablespoons water
½ pound Chinese rice stick noodles or vermicelli, softened in hot water for 15 to 20 minutes and drained
2 cups bean sprouts, rinsed lightly and drained
Topping
3 tablespoons minced scallion greens
½ teaspoon crushed red chiles
2½ tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
4 tablespoons finely chopped dry-roasted peanuts
2 limes, cut into six wedges each
1. Wrap the tofu in paper towels or a cotton towel and place a heavy weight, such as a cast-iron skillet, on top. Let drain for 20 minutes. Cut the tofu into ¼-inch dice.
2. Heat a wok or heavy skillet, add 2 tablespoons of the oil, and heat until very hot, about 30 seconds. Add the tofu and stir-fry over high heat about 3 minutes. Remove with a handled strainer or slotted spoon and drain. Pour the oil out of the pan and wipe it clean.
3. Reheat the pan, add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, and heat until hot, about 20 seconds. Add the eggs, stirring to scramble over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the premixed Sauce and the rice noodles, and toss over medium-high heat, cooking about 3 to 4 minutes, until the noodles are tender and the mixture is dry.
4. Add the bean sprouts and tofu, and toss to mix. Transfer to a serving platter. Sprinkle with the prepared Topping ingredients. Arrange the lime wedges on the side and serve. Each diner squeezes the lime onto an individual portion before eating.
Noodle dishes, such as pad thai, form a significant part of the Asian diet, and for good reason. They nurture and nourish. Like rice, noodles tone the body, energize the system, and strengthen the spleen.
I was first introduced to a variation of this dish as a student in Taipei at one of my favorite noodle stands. It became a dish I craved during the winter, when the weather turned raw and damp. This noodle dish will fill the stomach and warm the soul.
SIX SERVINGS
1 pound boned chicken breast, skin removed
Garlic Marinade
tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons rice wine or sake
1 tablespoon sugar
1½ tablespoons minced garlic
8 dried Chinese black mushrooms, softened in hot water to cover for 20 minutes
2 leeks or 1⁄3 pound garlic chives, cleaned and ends trimmed
½ pound Chinese flour-and-water noodles or linguine
3½ tablespoons safflower or corn oil
3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2½ tablespoons rice wine or sake
Sauce (mixed together)
2¼ cups Classic Chicken Broth or water
7½ tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons rice wine or sake
1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil
1½ teaspoons sugar
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2½ tablespoons cornstarch
4 cups bean sprouts, rinsed lightly and drained
1. Lay the chicken breast meat flat on a cutting board. Holding the blade of your knife at a low slant to the board, cut the chicken into thin slices, then cut the slices into matchstick-size shreds; place them in a bowl. Add the Garlic Marinade and toss lightly with your hands to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. Remove and discard the stems from the black mushrooms and cut the caps into very thin shreds. Cut the leeks into thin julienne slices about 1½ inches long. If using garlic chives, trim the ends and cut into 1-inch lengths.
3. Bring 3 quarts water to a boil, add the noodles, and cook about 10 to 12 minutes, until near tender; drain in a colander, rinse lightly to remove the starch, and drain again thoroughly in a colander.
4. Heat a wok or large skillet, add 2½ tablespoons of the oil, and heat until very hot but not smoking. Add the chicken shreds and toss lightly over high heat until they change color and separate. Remove with a handled strainer or slotted spoon and drain. Clean out the pan.
5. Reheat the pan, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil, heat about 20 seconds, and add the ginger, garlic, and black mushrooms. Stir-fry over high heat about 15 seconds, then add the leeks or garlic chives. Stir-fry over high heat briefly, add the rice wine or sake, and cook about 1 minute, then add the premixed Sauce and cook, stirring continuously to prevent lumps, until it thickens. Add the cooked noodles and chicken, then the bean sprouts, and toss lightly to heat and combine the ingredients. Spoon the chicken lo mein onto a serving platter, and serve immediately.
The combination of chicken and leeks gives this dish its warming tendencies, but the addition of bean sprouts, which are cooling, offsets the heat. Bean sprouts also have been shown to lower lipid levels, making them useful in the prevention of heart disease.
This quintessentially Sichuan dish illustrates the brilliance of western Chinese cooking: The silky noodles are superb drenched in the spicy sesame dressing. I make vats of the sauce in the summer and store it, covered, in my fridge for several weeks for an instant, satisfying meal. “Dan dan” is the Chinese equivalent for the distinctive noise made by the noodle vendor who sold this dish in the alleys of China.
SIX SERVINGS
1 pound boneless pork loin
Marinade
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ tablespoons rice wine or sake
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
2 teaspoons cornstarch
½ teaspoon crushed Sichuan peppercorns (optional)
Spicy Sesame Dressing
8 cloves garlic
21-inch-square knobs fresh ginger, peeled
1 teaspoon crushed dried chiles or dried chile flakes
6 tablespoons Chinese toasted sesame paste (stirred well before adding)
4 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
5 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup rice wine or sake
1½ tablespoons Chinese black vinegar or Worcestershire sauce
1½ tablespoons sugar
6 tablespoons chicken broth or water
½ pound thin egg noodles, such as angel hair or spaghettini
2½ tablespoons canola or corn oil
2 cups minced scallion greens
1. Cut the pork loin into thin slices about ¼ inch thick, then cut the slices into thin, matchstick-size shreds about 1 inch long. Put the shreds in a bowl, add the Marinade, and toss lightly to coat. Cover with plastic wrap, and let the pork marinate for 1 hour at room temperature, or longer if possible in the refrigerator.
2. Put the Sichuan peppercorns (if using) in a skillet, and toast over medium heat about 4 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until they are very fragrant. Let them cool slightly and then crush them into a powder with a rolling pin, mallet, or mortar and pestle.
3. Drop the seasonings of the Spicy Sesame Dressing in descending order into the feed tube of a food processor fitted with a steel blade while the machine is running. Mix together to a smooth sauce—it should have the consistency of heavy cream. Add the Sichuan peppercorn powder and mix. Pour into a serving bowl.
4. Bring 3 quarts water to a boil, add the noodles, and cook about 5 to 6 minutes, or until near tender. Drain in a colander, rinse lightly to remove the starch, and drain again thoroughly in a colander. Divide the noodles into six portions in soup bowls.
5. Heat a wok or large skillet, add the oil, and heat until very hot. Add the pork and stir-fry over high heat about 2½ to 3 minutes, until the meat changes color and is cooked. Scoop it into a colander to drain; then spoon it over the individual servings of noodles and sprinkle about 1⁄3 cup minced scallion greens on top of each. Ladle some Spicy Sesame Dressing over all, and serve.
Early records indicate that the sesame plant was introduced to China around the second century b.c.; its seeds have been used in Chinese medicine for over 2,000 years. Traditionally, they are believed to vitalize the internal organs and to moisten the body. According to Dr. Albert Leung, some Chinese studies have shown that they also lower the blood sugar level. In ancient China ½ cup sesame seeds boiled in 1 cup water was drunk to relieve toothaches.
Tender beef with red onions and snap peas in oyster sauce is a delicious topping for crisp-fried noodles, but chicken, turkey, or pork may be substituted. For convenience, I often broil the noodles, as described below, instead of pan-frying them.
SIX SERVINGS
1½ pounds flank steak, London broil, or boneless sirloin
Marinade
3½ tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine or sake
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon cornstarch
¾ pound thin egg noodles, such as angel hair or vermicelli
1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil mixed with 1 teaspoon safflower or corn oil
5½ tablespoons safflower or corn oil 2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger
1½ red onions, peeled and cut into thin julienne slices
¾ pound fresh snap peas, ends trimmed and veiny strings removed
2 tablespoons rice wine or sake
Oyster Sauce (mixed together)
1½ cups Classic Chicken Broth
6 tablespoons oyster sauce
1½ tablespoons rice wine or sake
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1½ tablespoons cornstarch
1. Trim the meat of fat and gristle, cut lengthwise along the grain into strips about 2½ inches wide, then cut across the grain into very thin slices about ⅛ inch thick. Put the slices in a bowl, add the Marinade, and toss lightly to coat. Cover the beef slices with plastic wrap and let them marinate for 20 minutes.
2. Bring 3 quarts water to a boil, add the noodles, and cook about 5 to 6 minutes, or until near tender. Drain in a colander, rinse lightly to remove the starch, and drain again thoroughly in a colander. Pour the toasted sesame oil–safflower oil over the noodles and toss to coat. Spread the noodles out on a large baking sheet.
3. Heat a broiler until very hot. Place the noodles 3 inches under the broiler and cook about 10 minutes, until they are golden brown. Flip them over with a spatula and brown on the other side. Cook until golden. Turn off the broiler and keep the noodles warm in an oven on low.
4. Heat a well-seasoned wok or large skillet, add 3½ tablespoons of the oil, and heat until near smoking. Add the beef slices, and stir-fry over high heat until they lose their raw color and separate. Remove with a handled strainer and drain in a colander. Clean the pan.
5. Reheat the pan, add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, heat about 20 seconds, and add the garlic, ginger, and red onions. Stir-fry for 2 minutes, until the onion is soft. Add the snap peas and rice wine, and stir-fry another 2 minutes, or until the snap peas are almost tender. Pour in the premixed Oyster Sauce and stir-fry until it thickens, taking care to prevent lumps. Add the cooked beef, and toss lightly in the sauce. Place the browned noodles on a platter and scoop the beef and snap peas on top. Serve.
Like chicken soup, noodle dishes are nurturing and soothing. Since the beef and onions in this recipe heat the body, this is one of my favorite wintertime dishes. I often substitute chicken or seafood and add lots of different vegetables for a more neutral dish in warmer weather.
