Here are seasoning powders, “preserved” lemons, purées, stocks, and bases. These recipes can be used with various foods in the book. Some can be made ahead in the amount that is preferred and kept in sealed containers either at room temperature, refrigerated, or frozen.
Sometimes we want a zap of flavor. These prepared ingredients can be kept on hand for a cook’s craving.
This is my own special seasoning blend that can be used in or on many things. It keeps well in a tightly closed container in the refrigerator, so it is worth multiplying. It is used in Spicy Kisses (page 29) and Simplest Lunch (page 68).
½ teaspoon ground star anise (1 or 2 whole star anise; see Note)
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
⅓ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Place the star anise in a mini food processor (or coffee grinder) and pulse until pulverized. Pour the powder into a mesh strainer over a small metal bowl to get rid of any remaining chunks. Add the other ingredients and mix well.
MAKES 1 TABLESPOON
NOTE
Eight to 10 whole star anise (¼ ounce) will make 1 generous tablespoon of ground star anise.
Another spice mix I whipped up and like to keep on hand. Think fish and chicken as well as desserts. Multiply and store in a plastic container in the refrigerator.
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon anise seeds
6 whole black peppercorns
Two 3-inch strips lemon zest
Place all the ingredients in a mini food processor or coffee grinder and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand.
MAKES 1 GENEROUS TEASPOON
This is cheating; but I think that it is a triumph. It permits me to make Moroccan dishes without having had the forethought to make real preserved lemons. The recipe can easily be multiplied if you like to cook Moroccan food often. The entire lemon is edible and silky. If you want to make the genuine article, read Paula Wolfert. This version will get closer to her kind by keeping in the refrigerator for about a month. Watch out for seasonings when using the lemons, which are very salty.
1 cup kosher salt
2 lemons, washed, trimmed of ends, each cut lengthwise into 6 wedges, seeds removed
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Place the salt and 1 cup water in a medium saucepan over high heat (the liquid will be oversaturated, and the salt will eventually precipitate). Add the lemons, skin side down, and simmer for 30 minutes. Drain the lemons; rinse once, place in a container covered with the lemon juice, and allow to cool.
MAKES 12 WEDGES
Foods can of course be cooked or eaten raw on their own. However, using stock or a homemade base in the cooking gives extra flavor.
Chicken stock is not difficult to make from scratch. I usually start it after I roast a chicken, using the carcass, innards, and any bones that I can snatch back from people’s plates. Don’t worry; they will be boiled. The remnants of each 5-pound chicken will make about a quart of stock.
I cook these stocks for a long time so as to extract the silky gelatin from the bones.
Freeze in pint containers for ease of use. Defrost in the microwave for about 5 minutes. A quart will defrost in about 9 minutes.
5 pounds chicken backs and necks, roasted carcasses, or other bones
TO START THE STOCK ON TOP OF THE STOVE: In a tall, narrow stockpot, bring the bones and 3 quarts water to a boil. Skim the fat. Lower the heat and simmer gently, so bubbles are barely breaking the surface of the liquid, for at least 4 hours and up to 12; add water as needed to keep the bones covered. Skim as necessary to remove as much fat as possible.
TO START THE STOCK IN THE OVEN: Place a rack on the lowest level of the oven (remove any other racks) and heat the oven to 250°F.
In a tall, narrow stockpot on the stovetop, bring the bones and 3 quarts water to a boil. Skim the fat. Place in the oven for 4 hours; add water if needed. Remove and skim the fat. Return to the oven for at least 5 hours and up to 8.
TO START THE STOCK IN A SLOW COOKER: Start with 2½ pounds bones and 6 cups water for a 4-quart cooker. Place the bones in the slow cooker and pour the water over them. Cover and turn the heat to low. Cook for 11 to 12 hours.
TO FINISH USING ANY METHOD: The bones will be falling apart when the stock is done. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve. Skim the fat and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for 3 hours.
Remove the fat from the top of the stock and the sediment from the bottom. Use immediately, refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze.
MAKES 10 CUPS ON TOP OF THE STOVE, 8 CUPS IN THE OVEN, 6 CUPS IN THE SLOW COOKER
This recipe produces a very strong, rich, and delicious gelatinous stock. Don’t use it for most cold soups, as they will turn solid; but it is perfect for aspics or gelled soups.
6 pounds chicken backs and necks
In a tall, narrow stockpot, bring the bones and 4 quarts plus 1 cup water to a boil. Skim the fat. Lower the heat and simmer gently, so the bubbles are barely breaking on the surface, for 12 hours, skimming the fat as necessary. Partially covering the pot with a lid will mean less evaporation.
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Skim the fat. Cool to room temperature. Refrigerate for 3 hours.
Remove the solidified fat from the top of the stock and the sediment (flip the gelled stock out of the container and scrape off the layer of sediment that has settled on the bottom). Use immediately, refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze.
MAKES 8 CUPS
This is not a “real” stock because it’s not made with bones from scratch. The added gelatin makes up for more bones. It’s quicker than the other homemade stocks. When I have only a little time, however, it can enrich a commercially bought sterile-pack chicken stock, really enhancing it.
6 cups sterile-pack chicken broth or 6 cups water with the appropriate number of stock cubes
1 pound chicken bones, backs, necks, or wings or a combination
1 large yellow onion, skin on, quartered
Two ¼-ounce packets gelatin (14 to 15 grams total weight)
In a medium saucepan, bring the broth, bones, and onion to a boil. Lower the heat slightly. Cook at a low boil for 30 minutes.
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing down on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Skim the fat. Return the broth to the saucepan.
Sprinkle the gelatin over ½ cup cold water and let sit for 2 minutes. With a spatula, scrape the gelatin into the broth. Heat the broth over medium heat, stirring, until the gelatin is completely dissolved.
MAKES 5 CUPS
There is a long-held belief in French cooking that fish stock must not be cooked for more than 20 to 40 minutes. As a young cook, I ignored this rule and cooked my fish stocks for long hours, just as I did meat stocks. As I learned more, I persisted in what turned out to be a very satisfactory habit.
I eventually learned where the “don’t overcook stock” rule came from. French restaurant chefs use flatfish—flounder and sole—for their stocks, because they cook these fish in quantity and have the bones and heads readily available. Also these parts, called the “frames,” are often bought on their own. However, these fish do make a bitter stock if cooked for longer than 20 minutes.
If no flatfish bones are used, the stock can cook for 4 to 6 hours; this slow cooking extracts all the gelatin from the bones and makes a wonderful, rich broth. It is also better not to use oily fish like mackerel and bluefish; they make for a heavy-tasting stock. Bones and heads from white-fleshed fish like snapper, bass, and cod are preferable. I also use cod collars, the cartilage between the head and the body. These are free or very cheap. When I order a fish to be filleted, I ask for the heads and bones; I have paid for them anyhow.
5 pounds heads and bones from white-fleshed fish, like snapper, bass, or cod
Wash the fish heads and bones well to eliminate all traces of blood. Cut out the blood-rich gills with scissors.
Put the heads and bones in a pot, and cover with 10 cups water. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Skim off the scum that rises to the top. Lower the heat and simmer the stock for 4 to 6 hours or until approximately 7 cups of broth remain, skimming as necessary.
Strain the stock through a damp-cloth-lined sieve. The stock can be used immediately, refrigerated for up to 3 days, or frozen.
MAKES 7 CUPS
VARIATION
Extra-Rich Fish Stock
Cook the broth for an extra hour to reduce it further.
MAKES 5 CUPS
For a smoother and more unctuous mouth feel, add tapioca starch to the finished broth, see the variation.
2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
2 medium onions, peeled and quartered
3 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 medium tomatoes
3 medium leeks, white part only, cut in half lengthwise, washed well, and cut across into 1-inch lengths
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 bunch spinach, stemmed, washed well, and cut across into 2-inch strips
1 cup celery leaves
Stems from 2 bunches parsley
2 bay leaves
TO MAKE ROASTED VEGETABLE BROTH: Heat the oven to 500°F with a rack in the middle.
Place the garlic, onions, carrots, tomatoes, and leeks in a large roasting pan. Add the olive oil and toss to coat. Roast for 15 minutes. Turn the vegetables and roast for 15 minutes more. Move the vegetables around in the pan and roast for 10 minutes more or until all the vegetables are nicely browned and the tomatoes are collapsing.
Place the roasted vegetables in a tall, narrow stockpot. Add the spinach, celery leaves, parsley stems, bay leaves, and 6 cups water. Place the roasting pan on top of the stove. Stir in 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits from the sides and bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Pour this liquid over the vegetables in the pot.
TO MAKE PLAIN VEGETABLE BROTH: Place all the ingredients and 8 cups water in a tall, narrow stockpot.
TO FINISH USING EITHER METHOD: Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to simmer. Cook, partially covered, for 45 minutes. Strain through a damp-cloth-lined sieve. Use immediately, refrigerate for up to 3 days, or freeze.
MAKES 8 CUPS
VARIATION
To thicken slightly, mix 5 tablespoons tapioca starch with ¾ cup cold broth. Bring the broth to a boil as described above, whisk in the tapioca mixture, and return to a boil. Remove from the stove.
More and more of my friends are becoming vegetarians, and in the spring, the season of good vegetables and good garlic, it is a pleasure to be able to serve them delicious soups based on a meatless stock. Garlic broth is an age-old Mediterranean staple that is cheap to make and yet offers flavor and a certain body that comes from the stickiness all of us who have peeled garlic know well.
Garlic bulbs are at their juiciest, least sharp, and least bitter in spring. When long-cooked, garlic is mild and sweet, not aggressive; even those who are put off by raw garlic’s strong taste will find this broth deliciously smooth.
It is versatile, too, because it can be eaten on its own with the addition of just a few ad-hoc ingredients. Consider some jalapeño pepper, cilantro, and lime juice; diced tomato, chopped parsley, matchsticks of zucchini, and thinly sliced basil; cooked peas and small leaves of spinach; lemongrass, curry leaves, and lime juice; or anything else that appeals to you. Traditional additions, in quantities determined by the cook’s imagination, are poached eggs or egg drops (for stracciatella) and thin slivers of serrano ham, or tomatoes and stale gluten-free bread, or broccoli rabe.
3 small heads garlic
1 tablespoon olive oil
Kosher salt (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
Smash the garlic heads, separating the cloves. Smash and peel the cloves and cut in half lengthwise. If there is a green germ in the center, remove it.
In a medium saucepan, warm the oil over low heat. Stir in the garlic and cook, stirring often, for about 20 minutes or until the outside is translucent and the garlic is soft. Do not let the garlic brown.
Add 2 quarts and 1 cup water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 40 minutes. The garlic will be very tender. Strain. If using the broth on its own, season to taste. Freeze what is not being used that day.
MAKES 8 CUPS
We all need this from time to time. Sterile-pack versions are quite satisfactory, but if tomatoes are in season, it seems reasonable and cheaper to make our own. This recipe can easily be multiplied by using more racks in the oven. The amount made will be used quickly. If multiplying, freeze in pint containers.
1 pound plum tomatoes, stemmed
1 tablespoon olive oil
Heat the oven to 500°F with a rack in the bottom third. Slick the tomatoes and small roasting pan with the oil. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes (summer tomatoes cook faster than winter tomatoes). Purée the tomatoes through a food mill using the fine disc.
MAKES 1½ CUPS
This is a technique for cooking any variety of mushrooms, from basic white button to chanterelles.
2 tablespoons safflower oil
½ pound mushrooms, stemmed and cut into quarters or sixths (about 4 cups)
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over high heat. When the oil shimmers, reduce the heat to low and add the mushrooms. Cook the mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until golden brown or fully cooked, 5 to 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
MAKES 1 CUP
This base, for risotto, pasta sauce, or cooking chicken or fish, is well worth making when the mushrooms are available. The yield is enough for a risotto or pasta for at least 6 or to cook a large roasted chicken, skinned and cut into smallish pieces and poached in sauce for 6 to 8 (serve with rice).
⅔ cup olive oil
1 white onion, cut into ¼-inch dice (about ¾ cup)
¾ pound white mushrooms, trimmed and cut into ¼-inch strips (about 4 cups)
½ pound lobster or other very firm mushrooms, such as king oysters, cut into ½-inch chunks (about 3 cups)
3 cloves garlic, smashed, peeled, and minced
5 cups chicken stock (any of the homemade stocks, pages 203–4, or sterile-pack)
¼ ounce dried porcini
½ cup Oyster Mushroom (Pleurotus) Base (opposite)
¾ cup red wine
Warm half of the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion and white mushrooms. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the onion is translucent. Add the remaining ⅓ cup olive oil and the lobster mushrooms and garlic and cook over medium-high heat until the firm mushrooms begin to brown. Soak the porcini in 1 cup of the chicken stock in the microwave for 5 minutes and strain the liquid through a cloth if gritty. Add the porcini and their stock along with the remaining 4 cups stock, the oyster mushroom base, and the red wine to the other cooked mushrooms.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS
Since they can be grown commercially, oyster mushrooms can now be bought cultivated in a variety of colors and flavors. A spring find of wild ones on a tree is a special delight. Although I have had a bonanza of wild Pleurotus, I realize that many don’t have such luck, so I decided to create recipes for the store-bought kind.
Serve over Soft Polenta (page 170) or use as a pasta sauce or as a soup with tender vegetables such as peas, green beans, and young carrots. To serve as a soup or to freeze, use the larger amount of stock. For a sauce, use less.
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound oyster mushrooms (Pleurotus), fibrous bottoms removed, cut along the gills into ¼-inch-wide strips (about 6 cups)
1¾ to 2½ cups chicken stock (any of the homemade stocks, pages 203–4, or sterile-pack)
Kosher salt
Put the oil in a 9-inch-wide stockpot over medium heat. Toss in the mushrooms and continue to toss while scraping the bottom of the pan. Cook until the mushrooms are reduced to a third of their original volume. Pour in 2 cups of the chicken stock and cook for 30 minutes. Add as much of the remaining stock as needed to cover the mushrooms. Do not skim.
Allow to cool. Divide among freezer containers and freeze. To use, defrost in the refrigerator. Pour off the stock and boil in a small pan until the desired quantity is reached. Add salt to taste.
MAKES 3 CUPS
Many countries have battered and fried dishes, sometimes just one food such as shrimp and sometimes a hodgepodge like the Italian fritto misto. Tempura batter is the easiest to handle and very good but, unfortunately, last-minute. You may want to save it for an all-tempura party.
2 cups rice flour
½ teaspoon paprika
1 large egg
Just before ready to cook, place the ingredients in a medium bowl. Pour in 1 cup ice water (plus an additional 1½ tablespoons if cooking shrimp). Stir very lightly (chopsticks are good for this) so that the batter is barely combined; there should be lumps of flour in the batter and around the rim of the bowl. The batter is ready.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR ABOUT 90 PIECES, DEPENDING ON SIZE