Chapter 4: More Advanced Cheese Making. Bloomy-Rind and Surface-Ripened Cheeses, Washed-Rind and Smeared-Rind Cheeses, and Blue Cheeses

Young Époisses at 2½ weeks

The final cheese making chapter of this book covers some of my favorite styles and families of cheeses. It builds on all that has been presented in the previous chapters. Now that you’ve become comfortable with the basics of cheese making and have successfully ventured into the world of cultured cheeses in chapter 2, and then pressed, firm, aged cheeses in chapter 3, you are equipped to delve into a few popular types of cheeses that are a bit more nuanced and finicky: bloomy-rind, surface-ripened, and mold-ripened styles. You’ll be working with new molds, bacteria, and secondary cultures that not only flavor the cheese but also work together symbiotically to create colorful, identifiable surfaces, interiors, and aromas. You will learn surface washing techniques, styles of blue mold development, and more cheese ripening methods. Some of the cheeses are easier to make than others. The complex bloom-covered, alcohol-washed, in-your-face stinkers and blue veiners will require more of your attention over the course of their development, with your management affecting the end results. It is with these families of cheeses that the skills of successful cheese ripening are developed. You will be tested, but it is worth it. Once you’ve played in this realm, you will have a clearer understanding of cheese as a living, breathing entity. From this point you can try replicating your favorite cheeses or creating a new one of your own.

Bloomy-Rind and Surface-Ripened Cheeses

Bloomy-rind or surface-ripened (mold- and bacteria-ripened) cheeses include some of the most renowned French cheeses, such as Brie, Camembert, Saint-Marcellin, and Valençay. They are recognizable by their fuzzy white or crinkled “brainy” surface, their creamy or buttery paste under the rind, and a mild to mushroom flavor in the cow’s milk cheeses and tangy flavor in the goat’s milk cheeses.

These bloomies begin with cow’s, goat’s, or sheep’s milk inoculated with mesophilic starter cultures and Penicillium candidum mold. The recognizable velvety, white, bloomy edible rind is created by P. candidum, which is sometimes also sprayed on the surface of the cheese to promote the growth. P. candidum is used alone or in combination with the mold Geotrichum candidum, which aids in rind and flavor development and is responsible for those cheeses with wrinkly, “brainy” surfaces. Bloomy-rind and surface-ripened cheeses ripen from the outside in and become softer and creamier as they age.

Ripened at a relatively high humidity (90 to 95 percent), these cheeses develop the fuzzy white mold on their surface within ten to twelve days. Depending upon the style of the specific cheese, they generally need only ten days to five weeks to develop their flavor. Longer ripening can create a more pungent flavor.

CRÈME FRAÎCHE BRIE

MAKES One 10- to 12-ounce wheel or two 5- to 6-ounce wheels
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 to 7 weeks: 3 hours to make the cheese; 6 hours to drain; 4 to 7 weeks to ripen

Originally from the Île-de-France region near Paris, this white bloomy-rind cheese is known worldwide and is a very accessible French cheese for Americans. Made in larger wheels than Camembert, Brie is made from cow’s milk, which can be whole or skimmed. There are many fantastic artisanal Brie-style cheeses being made in France as well as in America. My version is a rich cousin made with whole milk and homemade cultured crème fraîche. It was inspired by the award-winning triple-cream Brie from Marin French Cheese Company, among others.

Penicillium candidum mold powder

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or fine flake sea salt

2 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

1/8 teaspoon Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

1½ cups cultured crème fraîche, homemade or store-bought, at room temperature

1.  Twelve hours before starting, combine a pinch of Penicillium candidum, ¼ teaspoon salt, and 2 cups of cool nonchlorinated water in an atomizer or spray bottle. Store at 50°F to 55°F.

2.  In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, slowly heat the milk to 86°F over low heat; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.

3.  Sprinkle the starter, ⅛ teaspoon of P. candidum mold powder, and the Geotrichum candidum mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion for 20 strokes. Cover and maintain 86°F, letting the milk ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 1½ hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

4.  Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes to firm up the curds. Using a rubber spatula, gently stir for 5 minutes around the edges of the pot to move the curds around. Let the curds rest for 5 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.

5.  Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds. Gently ladle the curds into a colander lined with damp butter muslin and let drain for 10 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping.

6.  Place the crème fraîche in a bowl and whisk to soften. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the crème fraîche into the curds to combine. Let drain for 10 minutes, until any residual liquid has drained out.

7.  Set a draining rack over a tray, put a cutting board on the rack and a cheese mat on the board, and, finally, place one 8-inch Brie mold or two 4-inch Camembert molds on the mat. Ladle the curds into the mold or molds and let drain for 2 hours. The curds will reduce to about two-thirds the height of the mold. Place a second mat and board over the top of the mold. With one hand holding the board firmly against the mat and mold, lift and gently flip over the bottom board and mat with the mold and place back onto the draining rack; the second board and mat will now be on the bottom and the original mat and board will be on top.

8.  Let drain for 2 hours, until the curds are reduced in size by about one-third, then flip again in the same manner and let drain overnight at room temperature. The curds will be about 1½ inches high at this point.

9.  Salt the top of the cheese, flip it over, salt the second side, and let drain for 2 more hours. The quantity of salt is hard to pinpoint, but if you imagine salting a steak or tomato well, that is about right. The curds will be about 1 inch high at this point. Remove the mold and spray the cheese lightly (while it is on the draining rack) with the P. candidum solution.

10.  Place the cheese on a clean cheese mat in a ripening box. Cover loosely with the lid and ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity. High humidity is essential for making this cheese. Flip the cheese daily, removing any whey that may have accumulated in the ripening box. Keep the box loosely covered to maintain the humidity level.

11.  After 2 days, you can lightly spray the cheeses with mold solution again to help ensure proper mold growth, if desired. After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear. Remove any undesirable mold with a piece of cheesecloth dipped in a vinegar-salt solution. After 10 to 14 days, the cheeses will be fully coated in white mold. At this point, clean the ripening box, wrap the cheeses in cheese paper, and return them to the ripening box. The cheese will begin to soften within 1 week or so. After a total of 4 weeks from the start of ripening (or 3 weeks if you use Camembert molds), move the wrapped cheeses to the refrigerator and store until they have reached the desired ripeness: firm and mild, or runny and strong. The aging time to desired ripeness will vary depending on the diameter and thickness of the cheese: if a Brie mold was used, count on 4 to 7 weeks total; if 2 Camembert molds, count on 3 to 6 weeks total.

AMERICAN-STYLE BRIE

MAKES 2 pounds
MILKS Pasteurized whole cow’s milk, pasteurized heavy cream
START TO FINISH 5 to 6 weeks: 2½ to 3 hours to make the cheese; 13 hours to drain; 5 to 6 weeks to age

American-style Brie differs from its French ancestors in leading a more stable life. This recipe was developed by Nancy Vineyard at the Beverage People for those who like a firmer, less runny Brie. This Brie can sit in your fridge three to four weeks longer than its French cousin before turning into a runny and ever-stronger-tasting cheese. Although making Brie may seem challenging initially, the cooking is straightforward and, with proper attention to ripening the white mold during its first week, the cheese pretty much takes care of itself during maturation. That phase takes place in a regular home refrigerator with the cheese wrapped in cheese paper.

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

½ cup pasteurized heavy cream

Pinch of MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium candidum mold powder

⅛ teaspoon Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  Heat the milk and cream in a 10-quart stockpot set in a 102°F water bath over low heat. Bring the milk to 90°F over 10 minutes.

2.  Leave the heat on and sprinkle the starter cultures and mold powders over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion for 20 strokes. Allow the temperature of the milk to rise to 96°F to 98°F. Turn off the heat, cover, and let the milk rest in the water bath for 1½ hours. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Let rest, covered, for 30 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Stir the curds for 10 to 15 minutes, then let them settle for 5 minutes. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds.

4.  Set a draining rack over a tray, put an 8-inch Brie mold (with a bottom) on it, and put the rack in a ripening box. Gently ladle the curds into the mold and let the curds drain for 1 hour, periodically lifting the mold and pouring the whey out of the tray.

5.  After 1 hour, gently flip the cheese out of the mold into your hand, turn it over, and return it to the mold. This evens out the drainage and smoothes the surface on both sides. Flip the cheese every hour as you continue to drain and discard whey. Gradually there will only be a few ounces of whey to drain. When there is no more whey, after four or five flips, put a foil cover or lid on the ripening box, vented in two places, and keep the box at room temperature for 8 hours.

6.  Drain off the last of the whey and unmold the cheese onto a mat. Salt the top of the cheese, flip it over, and salt the second side. The quantity of salt is hard to pinpoint, but if you imagine salting a steak or tomato well, that is about right. Salting the edges is optional.

7.  The blooming phase of ripening begins now and is best carried out at 52°F to 56°F. Put the lid of the ripening box on askew or cover the middle two-thirds of the pan with aluminum foil, leaving it open at both ends for air circulation. In 3 to 4 days the cheese will bloom, with white mold forming over the surface. Flip the wheel over to bloom the other side. The second bloom will be complete in only 1 or 2 more days.

8.  Using cheese paper, wrap the wheel, taping closed any awkward edges. Move the wheel to a clean tray and ripening box with a closed lid. Place 2 wadded damp paper towels at opposite corners of the box to keep the humidity at about 85 percent. Move this box to your refrigerator (set at about 38°F). Moisten the towels as needed and turn the wheel over once or twice during the ripening time.

9.  The wheel should be ready to serve after 5 to 6 weeks. You can check by cutting out a small ¼-inch wedge. The cheese should feel soft and begin to ooze out of the rind, and it should taste and smell mild (old Brie will taste very tangy and smell of ammonia). Press a small piece of waxed paper into the cut section before rewrapping. The cheese will keep for 6 to 8 weeks in the refrigerator.

BUCHERON

MAKES Two 8-ounce logs
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 to 5 weeks: 30 minutes to make the cheese; 18 hours to ripen; 24 hours to drain; 4 to 5 weeks to age

This log-shaped mold-ripened goat cheese from France’s Loire Valley is very popular in America. Mellowed in the ripening, it is soft and creamy just under the rind, while the center remains chalky. The result is a perfect interplay of textures. This version is partially inspired by the French style but also by some amazing versions made by American artisan cheese makers, like Zingerman’s Lincoln Log and Redwood Hill’s Bucheret. Note that you will need four molds for this recipe: two cylindrical Saint-Maure or bûche molds and two straight-sided molds, such as Camembert molds.

Penicillium candidum mold powder

1¾ teaspoons fine sea salt

1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk

¼ teaspoon Aroma B powdered mesophilic starter culture

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

1.  Twelve hours before starting, combine a pinch of P. candidum, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and 2 cups of cool nonchlorinated water in an atomizer or spray bottle. Store at 50°F to 55°F.

2.  In a non-reactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 72°F; this should take about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.

3.  Sprinkle the starter, ⅛ teaspoon of P. candidum mold powder, and the Geotrichum candidum mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion for 20 strokes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 72°F, for 18 hours, or until the curds are a firm mass and whey is floating on top.

4.  Place a draining rack over a tray. Steady 2 cylindrical Saint-Maure or bûche molds inside 2 round, straight-sided molds and place on the rack. Gently cut ½-inch-thick slices of curds using a ladle or skimmer and gently ladle the slices into the cylindrical molds to fill. Let drain until more curds can be added to the molds. Do not be tempted to add another mold; the curds will compress as the whey drains out, making room for all of the curds.

5.  When all the curds have been ladled into the molds, cover them with a clean kitchen towel and let the cheeses drain for 24 hours at room temperature. Remove any collected whey a few times while draining, wiping out the tray with a paper towel each time. After 6 hours, or when the cheeses are firm enough to handle, gently invert the molds onto your palm to flip the cheeses in their molds. Do this a few more times during the 24 hours to aid in uniform formation of the cheeses and development of the bacteria. At the end of 24 hours, the curds will have reduced to about half the height of the molds.

6.  Once the cheeses have stopped draining and the curds have compressed to below the halfway point of the mold, place a mat in a ripening box. Remove the cheeses from the molds and sprinkle ¾ teaspoon of the salt over the entire surface of each cheese.

7.  Set the cheeses at least 1 inch apart on the mat in the ripening box and allow 10 minutes for the salt to dissolve, then mist lightly with the P. candidum solution. Wipe any moisture from the walls of the box. Cover the box loosely with the lid and let it stand at room temperature for 24 hours.

8.  Drain any whey and wipe out any moisture from the box, then ripen the cheese at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity for 2 weeks. For the first few days, adjust the lid to be slightly open for a portion of each day to maintain the desired humidity level. Too much humidity will create an undesirably wet surface. The surface of the cheese should appear moist but not wet. Each day, wipe out any moisture that may have accumulated in the ripening box. Throughout the ripening period, turn the cheeses one-quarter turn daily to maintain their log shape. After 2 days, very lightly mist with the mold solution. After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear. After 10 to 14 days, the cheeses will be fully coated in white mold. Remove any undesirable mold using a piece of cheesecloth dipped in a vinegar-salt solution.

9.  Clean and dry the ripening box, wrap the cheeses in cheese paper, and return them to the ripening box. The cheeses will begin to soften within 1 week or so. After a total of 4 weeks from the start of ripening, wrap in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator. It is best to consume this cheese when it has reached the desired ripeness, between 4 weeks and 5 weeks.

CAMEMBERT

MAKES 1 pound
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 6 to 7 weeks: 5 hours to make the cheese; 5 hours to drain; 6 to 7 weeks to age

This recipe is contributed by Aaron Estes, a dedicated cheese head who works at his real job during the day, is a passionate cheesemonger at Lucy’s Whey in New York City on weekends, and writes and publishes the fun and informative Cave-Aged Blog (see Resources). In between, he makes cheese in his apartment for personal pleasure. The result of Aaron’s experimentation, this is an excellent and unconventional recipe for a creamy and wonderfully fragrant Camembert that tastes of fresh milk with a hint of lemon.

3 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium candidum mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

5 tablespoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, letting the milk ripen for 1½ hours. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F, until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into ¼- to ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Gently stir with a rubber spatula to prevent the curd from matting together, then ladle off one-third of the whey. Add the salt and gently stir to incorporate.

4.  Ladle the curds into an 4-inch Camembert mold set on a draining rack over a tray. Let drain at room temperature until the cheese is firm enough to flip, about 2 hours. Flip the cheese every hour for 5 hours, or until it stops draining.

Variation:  Make Camembert as above, using 2 Saint-Marcellin molds instead of the single Camembert mold.

5.  Take the cheese out of the mold and put it in a ripening box. Place a wadded damp paper towel in a corner of the box with the cheese to keep the humidity at about 85 percent. Place the box on the bottom shelf of your refrigerator. Flip the cheese every day. After 5 to 10 days the cheese should have around 75 percent mold coverage. When the cheese is fully covered in white mold, remove it from the box, wrap it in foil or cheese paper, and put it back in the refrigerator for another 5 weeks. It is ready when the center begins to feel soft. Consume within 2 weeks.

VARIATION

Calvados is an apple brandy from the same region of France as Camembert, and macerating the cheese in Calvados yields impressive results. The cheese should be made ahead, but the soaking and finishing should be timed to coincide with cheese service. Make Camembert as above, using 3 Saint-Marcellin molds instead of the single Brie mold. Ripen for 3 weeks, then place the cheeses in a nonreactive container with a lid and pour in 2 cups of Calvados or other apple brandy (or hard apple cider). Soak for 24 hours in a cool but not refrigerated place, flipping once at 12 hours. Spread 1 cup of toasted bread crumbs (or a mixture of bread crumbs and ground walnuts) out on a sheet of parchment paper. Lift the cheeses from the brandy, let them drip dry, and roll them in the crumbs to coat. Decorate each wheel with a walnut half and serve.

COULOMMIERS

MAKES Four 5-ounce cheeses
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
ALTERNATIVE MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 8 days to 2 weeks or more: about 2 hours to make the cheese; 15 hours to drain; 1 to 2 weeks or longer to age

Also called Brie de Coulommiers, this lovely, thin-rind, petite relative of other Bries and Camembert is ripened for a short period of time. It is ready to eat when only a few weeks old, and as a result of its youth, it is milder than other Brie cheeses.

Penicillium candidum mold powder

3½ teaspoons kosher or fine flake sea salt

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

1.  Twelve hours before starting, combine a pinch of of P. candidum, ½ teaspoon of salt, and 1 quart of nonchlorinated water in an atomizer or spray bottle. Store at 50°F to 55°F.

2.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

3.  Sprinkle the starter and ⅛ teaspoon of P. candidum mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 1½ hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

4.  Cut the curds into ½-inch thick slices and let sit for 5 minutes to firm up the curds. Using a rubber spatula, gently stir around the edges of the pot for 5 minutes to shrink the curds slightly and keep them from matting.

5.  Set a draining rack over a tray, put a cutting board on the rack and a cheese mat on the board, and, finally, place four 4-inch Camembert molds on the mat. Using a skimmer, gently ladle the slices of curds into the molds. Fill the molds to the top, then continue to add slices as the curds drain. When all the curds have been transferred to the molds, cover the molds with a clean kitchen towel and let drain at room temperature for 5 to 6 hours, or until the curds have reduced to almost half the height of the molds. Discard the whey periodically. Place a second mat and cutting board over the top of the molds. With one hand holding the top board firmly against the mat and molds, lift and gently flip over the bottom board and mat with the molds and place back onto the draining rack; the second board and mat will now be on the bottom and the original mat and board will be on top.

6.  Let drain for 6 hours, until the curds are about 1½ to 2 inches high, then flip again and let drain for another 3 hours. Stop flipping once the cheeses stop draining; they should be well drained and firm to the touch.

7.  Remove the molds and sprinkle about 1½ teaspoons salt over the tops and sides of the cheeses. Leave for 10 minutes, allowing the salt to dissolve. Place the cheeses salt side down on a clean cheese mat in a ripening box and salt the other sides, again using about 1½ teaspoons. Cover the box with the lid slightly open for a little air circulation and ripen the cheeses at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity. High humidity is essential for making this cheese. Flip the cheeses daily, removing any whey and any moisture that may have accumulated in the ripening box, as moisture will inhibit the proper white mold development. Once moisture no longer accumulates in the box, cover the box tightly.

8.  After 2 days, spray lightly with the mold solution. After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear. After 10 to 14 days, the cheeses will be fully coated in white mold. Remove any undesirable mold using a piece of cheesecloth dipped in a vinegar-salt solution. Clean the ripening box, wrap the cheeses in cheese paper, and return them to the ripening box. The cheese will begin to soften within 1 week or so. It is ready to eat when the center feels soft to the touch; this can be 1 to 2 weeks or slightly longer. Store in the refrigerator until they reach the desired ripeness.

CRAGGY CLOAKED CABRA

MAKES Ten 3-ounce cheeses
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 3 to 4 weeks: 30 minutes to make the cheese; 8 to 10 hours to ripen; 12½ hours to drain and ripen again; 3 to 4 weeks to age

Inspired by the wrinkly rind of French Chabichou and some rumpled American relatives, Bonne Bouche from Vermont Butter & Cheese and Wabash Cannonball from Capriole, this soft-ripened ball-shaped goat cheese looks somewhat disheveled due to the appearance of its cloak. But looks are deceiving. Ripened for only a short period, this ash-dusted cheese is soft under its rumpled bloomy white exterior, while the center remains chalky and tangy.

Penicillium candidum mold powder

4¼ teaspoons fine sea salt

1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk

¼ teaspoon Aroma B powdered mesophilic starter culture

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

2 tablespoons vegetable ash

1.  Twelve hours before starting, combine a pinch of P. candidum, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and 2 cups of cool nonchlorinated water in an atomizer or spray bottle. Store at 50°F to 55°F.

2.  In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 72°F; this should take about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.

3.  Sprinkle the starter, ⅛ teaspoon of P. candidum, and the Geotrichum candidum mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion for 20 strokes. Cover and maintain 72°F, letting the milk ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 72°F for 8 to 10 hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

4.  Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Gently stir for 10 minutes with a rubber spatula, then ladle the curds into a colander lined with damp butter muslin and let drain for 30 minutes. Sprinkle in 1 tablespoon of the salt and gently toss with your hands to incorporate, then make a draining sack from the muslin and let drain for 4 hours, or until the whey stops dripping.

5.  Using a scale, portion the drained curds into 10 pieces; each should weigh approximately 3½ ounces. Lightly shape and roll into balls, then place the cheeses at least 1 inch apart on a mat set in a ripening box. Cover the box loosely with the lid and let stand at room temperature for 8 hours.

6.  Drain the whey and wipe out any moisture from the box, then ripen the cheese at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity for 2 days. Adjust the lid to be slightly open for a portion of each day to maintain the desired humidity level. The surface of the cheese should appear moist but not wet.

7.  In a small bowl or jar, combine the vegetable ash with the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Wearing disposable gloves, use a fine-mesh strainer to dust the cheeses with the vegetable ash, coating them completely. Gently pat the ash onto the surface of the cheeses. Place the dusted cheeses on a clean cheese mat in a dry ripening box. Ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity, turning the cheeses daily to maintain the round shape.

8.  Two days after you have ashed the cheeses, very lightly mist them with the mold solution. Secure the lid on the ripening box. After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear through the ash. After 10 to 14 days, the cheeses will be fully coated in white mold. The wrinkled surface will also begin to develop within 10 days.

9.  At 2 weeks, clean and dry the ripening box, wrap the cheeses in cheese paper, and return them to the ripening box. The cheeses will begin to soften within 1 week or so. After a total of 3 weeks from the start of ripening, store them in the refrigerator. It is best to consume these cheeses when they have reached the desired ripeness, about 3 to 4 weeks from the start of ripening.

CROTTIN

MAKES Four 3½-ounce cheeses
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 3½ to 4½ weeks: 30 minutes to make the cheese; 18 hours to ripen; 2½ days to drain; 3 to 4 weeks to age

This surface-ripened goat cheese, known as crottin de chèvre in France, was one of the first styles of goat cheese to be emulated by American cheese makers some twenty years ago. The small, two-inch pucks of cheese are soft and mild when young and become firm and a bit salty with aging. A crottin can be eaten fresh (ten days old) or left to age and dry until hard (eight weeks or more), then used as a grating cheese. It’s sensational and aromatic when grated and simply dusted on a hot caramelized onion pizza or pissaladière. Laura Chenel, Redwood Hill Farm, and Vermont Butter & Cheese all make excellent versions of crottin.

1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso I or Aroma B powdered mesophilic starter culture

Pinch of Penicillium candidum mold powder

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

1.  Let the milk sit at room temperature for 1 hour. In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 72°F; this should take about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and the mold powders over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and maintain 72°F, letting the milk ripen for 18 hours, or until the curds form a solid mass.

3.  Place 4 crottin molds on a draining rack set over a tray. Gently cut ½-inch-thick slices of the curds using a ladle or skimmer and gently ladle the slices of curds into the molds to fill. Drain until more curds can be added to the molds. Do not be tempted to add another mold; the curds will compress as the whey drains out, making room for all of the curds.

4.  When all of the curds have been ladled into the molds, cover them with a clean kitchen towel and let the cheeses drain at room temperature. Remove any collected whey a few times while draining, wiping out the tray with a paper towel each time. After 12 hours, or when the cheeses are firm enough to handle, gently invert the molds onto your palm to flip the cheeses in their molds. Do this three more times during the next 36 hours to aid in uniform formation of the cheeses and development of the bacteria. After 48 hours, the curds will have reduced to about half the height of the mold.

5.  Once the cheeses have stopped draining and the curds have compressed to below the halfway point of the mold, place a mat in a ripening box. Remove the cheeses from the molds and sprinkle the salt over the tops and bottoms of the cheeses. Set them at least 1 inch apart on the mat in the ripening box and allow 10 minutes for the salt to dissolve. Wipe any moisture from the walls of the box.

6.  Cover the box loosely with the lid and let it stand at room temperature for 8 hours. Drain any whey and wipe out any moisture from the box, then ripen the cheeses at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity, flipping the cheeses daily. For the first few days, adjust the lid to be slightly open for a portion of each day to maintain the desired humidity level. Too much humidity will create an undesirably wet surface. The surface of the cheeses should appear moist but not wet.

7.  After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear. After 10 to 14 days, the cheeses will be fully coated in white mold. Clean and dry the ripening box, wrap the cheeses in cheese paper, and return them to the ripening box. The cheeses will begin to soften within 1 week or so. After a total of 3 weeks from the start of ripening, wrap the cheeses in fresh cheese paper and store in the refrigerator. It is best to consume these cheeses when they have reached the desired ripeness, between 3 and 4 weeks from the beginning of ripening.

Fromage à l’Huile

Fromage à l’huile means “cheese [marinated] in oil.” Young goat cheeses such as fresh chèvre, crottin, and cabécou are great candidates for marinating because they absorb flavors well. You can make a great version using this crottin. After aging for 2 weeks, the crottin is marinated in walnut oil and aromatics for 1 to 2 weeks. You can substitute cabécou or slices of a chèvre log for crottin. For additional flavor, lightly smoke the crottin over walnut shells before marinating, or experiment with smoked or citrus-infused olive oils.

For each 3½-ounce crottin, you’ll need one sterilized 8-ounce jar with a lid, ¼ cup of coarsely chopped walnuts, ¼ teaspoon of green peppercorns, 3 strips of lemon zest, 4 small sprigs of fresh thyme, and ½ cup of walnut oil. Slice each crottin into ½-inch-thick layers. In the jar, layer the slices of cheese with the walnuts, peppercorns, lemon zest, and thyme, then cover with walnut oil to the rim of the jar. Tightly secure the lid and place in a cool, dark cupboard or pantry for 1 to 2 weeks for the flavors to marry. After opening, place in the refrigerator to store. Bring to room temperature to liquefy the chilled oil before serving.

Profile: Consider Bardwell Farm

Consider Bardwell Farm was the first cheese making co-op in Vermont, founded in 1864 by Consider Stebbins Bardwell. Since 2000, the farm has been owned by Angela Miller and Russell Glover, who, along with master cheese maker Peter Dixon, revitalized the farm and continue to practice farming and cheese making traditions. The exquisite three-hundred-acre farm covers a portion of the Champlain Valley of Vermont into the eastern corner of New York. Peter’s award-winning cheeses are made from raw Jersey cow’s milk from a small neighboring farm as well as raw and pasteurized goat’s milk from Consider Bardwell’s one-hundred-head herd. These small-batch cheeses are handmade and aged on the farm to absolute perfection.

THE GOAT EXPERIENCE

MAKES Four 6-ounce crottin disks
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 3 weeks: 1 hour to make the cheese; 15 to 20 hours to ripen; 15 to 36 hours to drain; 2 to 3 weeks or longer to age

This recipe is contributed by the renowned Peter Dixon, cheese maker at Consider Bardwell Farm in Vermont. It is made in the style of their Experience goat cheese and is (as Peter describes it) one of the aged, soft-ripened lactic goat cheeses that comprise a very large and diverse group of such cheeses originating in France. They can be served after only ten days of ripening or be aged to make hard grating cheeses. The Goat Experience uses relatively small amounts of starter culture and rennet and a relatively long ripening and coagulating period, and because of its short aging period, it uses pasteurized milk. Note you will need a pH meter or pH strips for this recipe.

2 gallons pasteurized goat’s milk

⅛ teaspoon MM 100 or MA 011 powdered mesophilic starter culture

Pinch of Choozit CUM yeast

Pinch of Penicillium candidum mold powder

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 17 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ½ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ½ cup cool nonchlorinated water

2 teaspoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over medium heat to 75°F; this should take about 12 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter, yeast, and mold powders over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 75°F, letting the milk ripen for 25 minutes. Gently whisk in the calcium chloride for 1 minute, and then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 75°F for 15 to 20 hours, until the pH of the whey is below 4.6 but not lower than 4.4. At this point, the curds will have separated from the sides of the vat and there will be cracks in the body of the curds and a ½-inch layer of whey on top of the curds.

3.  Set a draining rack over a tray and place 4 crottin molds on the rack. The curd can be ladled in large scoops and drained in damp cheesecloth for 10 to 15 hours and then packed into the crottin molds or gently ladled in small scoops directly into the molds. Either way, once the curds are in the molds, let them drain for 15 to 36 hours at room temperature.

4.  Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon of kosher salt over the top of each cheese in its mold. After about 10 hours of draining, the curds will be firm and hold their shape. After 12 hours total draining time, unmold the cheeses, flip them, and return them to the molds and the rack to drain further. Sprinkle another ¼ teaspoon of salt over the top of each cheese in its mold.

5.  Unmold the cheeses and set them on a cheese mat to air-dry at 60°F to 65°F. Flip the cheeses the next day, then let them sit until there is visible mold growth on the surface; this should take 3 to 5 days. When there is growth, flip the cheeses over and move them to a more humid and colder place, in a ripening box at 45°F to 48°F and 90 percent humidity. Flip the cheeses daily until they are completely covered with white mold; this should happen within 10 days. After a total of 2 weeks from the start of ripening, wrap the cheeses in cheese paper and store in the refrigerator. It is best to consume these cheeses when they have reached the desired ripeness, between 2 and 3 weeks from the beginning of ripening, or longer for a stronger flavor.

Young Mushroom-Infused Camembert at 3 weeks

MUSHROOM-INFUSED CAMEMBERT

MAKES Two 8-ounce cheeses
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
ALTERNATIVE MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 to 6 weeks: 3 hours to make the cheese; 14 hours to drain; 4 to 6 weeks to age

Camembert is a perfect receptor for added earthy flavors. This is a flavor-enhanced Camembert in which the milk is infused with dried mushrooms. Some mushroom-flavored cheeses have bits of the mushroom added. That works for some firm cheeses, such as Jack or cheddar, but with bloomy-rind, creamy-paste cheeses, the best way to impart added flavor is to infuse the milk before making the cheese. Almost any variety of dried mushrooms can be used, but I prefer dried shiitake because they are the most compatible with the profile of this cheese; porcini would be too overpowering in flavor.

Penicillium candidum mold powder

4½ teaspoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand), cheese salt, or fine flake sea salt

½ ounce dried sliced shiitake mushrooms

1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

1.  Twelve hours before starting, combine a pinch of P. candidum, ½ teaspoon of salt, and 1 quart of cool nonchlorinated water in an atomizer or spray bottle. Store at 50°F to 55°F.

2.  In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, stir the mushrooms into the milk, then heat over low heat to 110°F to 112°F. Turn off the heat and maintain temperature for 55 minutes. Strain the milk through a fine-mesh strainer, pressing down on the mushrooms to squeeze out any liquid. Discard the mushrooms.

3.  Cool the milk to 90°F, then sprinkle the starter, ⅛ teaspoon of P. candidum mold powder, and the Geotrichum candidum mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining a temperature of 85°F for 1½ hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

4.  Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes to firm up. Using a rubber spatula, gently stir around the edges of the pot for 5 minutes to shrink the curds and keep them from matting. Let the curds rest for 5 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.

5.  Set a draining rack over a tray, put a cutting board on the rack and a cheese mat on the board, and, finally, place the two 4-inch Camembert molds on the mat. Ladle off some of the whey and, using a skimmer, gently ladle the curds into the molds. Let drain for 2 hours, until the curds have reduced to about half the height of the molds. Place a second mat and cutting board over the top of the molds. With one hand holding the top board firmly against the mat and molds, lift and gently flip the molds over and set them back onto the draining rack.

6.  Let drain for 2 hours, then flip again. At this point the curds should be 1½ to 2 inches high. Cover and let drain at room temperature for 8 hours or overnight. Flip the cheeses again and let drain for 2 more hours.

7.  Remove the molds and sprinkle about 2 teaspoons of salt over the top and sides of the cheeses. Leave for 10 minutes, allowing the salt to dissolve. At this point, spray lightly with the mold solution. Place the cheeses salt side down on a clean mat in a ripening box and salt the other side, using the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt.

8.  Cover the box with the lid slightly open for a little air circulation and ripen the cheeses at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity. High humidity is essential for making this cheese. Flip the cheeses daily, removing any whey and any moisture that may have accumulated in the ripening box. Keep covered to maintain the humidity level.

9.  After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear. Continue to flip the cheeses daily. After 10 to 14 days, the cheeses will be fully coated in white mold. Wrap them loosely in cheese paper and return them to the ripening box at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity. The cheeses will begin to soften within 1 week or so. After a total of 4 weeks from the start of ripening, move the cheeses to the refrigerator until they reach the desired ripeness, up to 6 weeks from the start of ripening.

BLOOMY ROBIOLA

MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk, pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 3 weeks to 3 months: 18 hours to make; 20 hours to drain; 48 hours to ripen; 3 weeks to 3 months to age

There is a broad range of cheeses with many variations that bear the name Robiola. Two styles of Robiola are contributed to this book by Jim Wallace, consultant to New England Cheesemaking Supply. One has a slightly rosy bloom but neither a white nor fuzzy surface and the other is fresh. This recipe is for a mixed milk bloomy-rind Robiola. The fresh version is incorporated into the variation for leaf-wrapped Robiola (see here).

1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk

1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk

⅛ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

4 drops rennet diluted in ¼ cup nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand)

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milks over low heat to 95°F; this should take about 25 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and mold powder over the milks and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, and then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 95°F for 12 to 18 hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Set a draining rack over a tray, followed by a cheese mat. Place 2 Camembert molds on the mat. Using a skimmer, gently ladle the curds into the molds. Let drain at room temperature for 8 to 10 hours, or until the curds have compressed to 1½ to 2 inches.

4.  Sprinkle ¼ teaspoon of kosher salt over the top of each cheese in its mold. After 10 to 12 hours of draining, the curds will be firm and hold their shape. Unmold the cheeses, flip them, and return them to the rack to drain further. Sprinkle another ¼ teaspoon of salt over the top of each cheese.

5.  Let the cheeses drain for 2 hours, then place the cheeses on a clean cheese mat in a ripening box. Cover the box with its lid and let ripen at 77°F and 92 to 95 percent humidity. Every 8 hours, loosen the lid to allow air to circulate. After 30 to 48 hours (depending on when the whey stops draining), lower the temperature to 55°F and keep the humidity at 92 to 95 percent.

6.  After about 5 days, the signs of a creamy white surface will appear. Continue to flip the cheeses daily and remove any excess moisture from the box. After 7 to 10 days, the cheeses will have a rosy surface hue. After 3 to 4 weeks some blue mold may have formed on the surface. At this point the cheese will be very ripe, and barely contained by its thin rind. You may use the cheeses now, wrap and store them in the refrigerator, or continue aging for up to 3 months.

VARIATION

To make leaf-wrapped Robiola, after salting, wrap each cheese in 2 prepared and blanched leaves of savoy cabbage and secure with lengths of raffia. Place in a ripening box at 50°F to 55°F and 80 percent humidity and age for 3 weeks to 1 month.

SAINT-MARCELLIN

MAKES Four 3-ounce rounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
ALTERNATIVE MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH About 2½ to 6½ weeks: 3 hours to make the cheese; 12 hours to ripen; 3½ days to drain; 2 to 6 weeks to age

This small surface-ripened cheese is considered one of France’s great culinary treasures. Originally made with goat’s milk, this version uses cow’s milk and is simplified for the home cheese maker. Soft, spreadable, and petite, Saint-Marcellin has a delicate, barely bloomed rind and is best encased in a crock to safely finish its aging. These crocks can be found at specialty cookware stores (see Resources).

3 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk

⅛ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

Pinch of Penicillium candidum mold powder

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

6 drops liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

3 teaspoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  In a nonreactive 4-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 75°F; this should take about 12 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and mold powders over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 72°F to 75°F for 12 hours.

3.  Cut the curds into ½-inch slices using a ladle or skimmer. Using a rubber spatula, gently stir around the edges of the pot, then let the curds stand for 5 minutes.

4.  Set a draining rack over a tray, then place 4 Saint-Marcellin molds on the rack. Ladle the curds into a colander or strainer lined with damp butter muslin and let drain for 15 minutes. Ladle the curds into the molds up to their tops, then let drain until more curds can be added to the molds. Do not be tempted to add another mold; the curds will compress as the whey drains out. The process will take about 30 minutes. Drain the curds at room temperature. After 6 hours, flip the cheeses in the molds and sprinkle the tops with 1½ teaspoons of the salt. Let drain for another 6 hours, then flip the cheeses in the molds again and sprinkle the tops with the remaining 1½ teaspoons of salt and drain for another 6 hours.

5.  Unmold the cheeses and place them on a cheese mat in a ripening box. Cover the box loosely and let the cheeses drain at room temperature for 48 hours, flipping the cheeses daily and removing any whey that has accumulated.

6.  Ripen at 55°F and 90 percent humidity for 14 days, or until a white fuzzy mold has developed to cover the cheese, flipping the cheeses daily and continuing to remove the whey. The cheeses are ready to eat at this point, or they can be aged further.

7.  Place each disk in a shallow clay crock and cover with plastic wrap or the crock’s lid. If crocks are not used, wrap the cheeses in cheese paper or plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.

Valençay at 2½ weeks

VALENÇAY

MAKES Four 3- to 4-ounce pyramid-shaped cheeses
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH About 4 to 6 weeks: 30 minutes to make the cheese; 12 hours to ripen; 48 hours to drain; 4 to 6 weeks to age

This ash-coated goat cheese from the Loire Valley of France is recognizably shaped into an approximately 3-inch-tall truncated pyramid, formed by a special mold. Light gray on the bloomy surface due to the vegetable ash peeking through the Penicillium candidum bloom, this cheese is firm yet creamy or even oozy just under the thin, edible rind and has a chalky center. The flavor ranges from mild and tangy when young to mushroomy and more salty when aged. A few contemporary American examples made in this style include Andante’s Nocturne and Haystack Mountain’s Haystack Peak.

1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso I or Aroma B powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium candidum mold powder

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ cup vegetable ash powder

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1.  In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 72°F; this should take about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and mold powders over the surface of the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 72°F for 12 hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into ½-inch slices using a ladle or skimmer. Using a rubber spatula, gently stir around the edges of the pot for 5 minutes, then let the curds stand for 5 minutes.

4.  Set a draining rack on a tray, then place 4 truncated pyramid molds on the rack. Ladle the slices of curds into the molds to fill, then let drain until more curds can be added to the molds. Do not be tempted to add another mold; the curds will compress as the whey drains out. Cover with a dish towel and let the cheeses drain for 48 hours at room temperature, removing any whey a few times while draining and removing any collected whey with a paper towel each time you drain it. Flip the molds after 12 hours or when the cheeses are firm enough to handle, then flip a few more times during the next 36 hours. At the end of 48 hours, the curds will have reduced to about half the height of the mold.

5.  Remove the molds and combine the vegetable ash with the salt in a small bowl. Wearing disposable gloves, use a fine-mesh strainer to dust the cheeses with vegetable ash, lightly coating each completely. Gently pat the ash onto the surface of the cheeses.

6.  Place the cheeses at least 1 inch apart on a clean cheese mat in a ripening box. Cover loosely with the lid and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours. Wipe out any moisture from the box, then ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity for 3 weeks. For the first few days, adjust the lid to be slightly open for a portion of each day to maintain the desired humidity level. The surface of the cheeses should appear moist but not wet.

7.  Continue to flip the cheeses daily. After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear through the ash. After 10 to 14 days the cheeses will be fully coated in white mold. As the cheese continues to age, the surface will turn a very light gray.

8.  Wrap the cheeses in cheese paper and return them to the ripening box; they will begin to soften within 1 week or so. After a total of 4 weeks from the start of ripening, wrap the cheeses in fresh cheese paper and store them in the refrigerator. It is best to consume this cheese when it has reached the desired ripeness, within 4 to 6 weeks from the start of ripening.

Washed-Rind and Smeared-Rind Cheeses

Washed-rind cheeses are surface-ripened cheeses that are washed or rubbed over the entire surface with brine, whey, buttermilk, cider, beer, wine, or spirits individually or in some combination, according to the traditions of the region of their origin. Smeared-rind cheeses—also know as the “stinkers”—are cheeses rubbed with a brine that contains a strain of the “red” bacteria Brevibacterium linens. The wash attracts desirable bacteria that help break down the curds, so the wash fundamentally alters the cheese rather than just forming a rind. The result is a creamy interior and an often sticky and pungent rind. Many washed-rind and smeared-rind cheeses originated during medieval times in monasteries where monks produced brew, wine, and spirits, as well as cheeses.

Cheeses made in the washed-rind style include Cabra al Vino, Chimay Trappiste, Munster, and Taleggio. Classic stinkers include Époisses and Limburger. Modern American examples include Carr Valley’s Mobay, Cato Corner’s Hooligan, Consider Bardwell’s Dorset and Manchester, Cowgirl Creamery’s Pierce Point and Red Hawk, Fiscalini’s Purple Moon, Haystack Mountain’s Red Cloud, Marin French’s Schloss, Meadow Creek’s Grayson, and the Mozzarella Company’s Blanca Bianca.

Whether the cheese has a washed or a smeared rind, the ripening solution is applied multiple times before the aging to create an edible rind ranging in color from natural to white to light orange to brown, or purple if washed with red wine. Some washed cheeses have a firmer texture due to being pressed before they are washed.

Soft-rind cheeses are ripened at a warm temperature (60°F) and high humidity (90 percent), and aged from three weeks to two months or longer. The pressed cheeses are ripened at 50°F to 55°F and slightly lower humidity (85 percent) and aged for three to six weeks. The flavors of some of the cheeses will become more intense with age.

ALE-WASHED CORIANDER TRAPPIST CHEESE

MAKES 1 pound
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 4½ to 6½ weeks: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 16 hours to press; 44 hours to soak and dry; 4 to 6 weeks to age

This cheese is a nod to the Trappist monks who, as part of their daily discipline, grew wheat and raised dairy cows. As a result they made bread, brewed beer, and made washed-rind cheeses, forging an important part of cheese making history. Monasteries in both Europe and the United States are still making cheeses in this tradition. This cheese is not traditional, but it was inspired by that style. The milk is infused with coriander and orange peel, two flavors in the Belgian-style white ale I chose to use as a brine and wash; crushed coriander seeds and dried orange peel are also layered into the cheese. My favorite dried orange peel is from Penzey’s Spices (penzeys.com).

1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk

1½ teaspoons coriander seeds, crushed

1½ teaspoons granulated orange peel

¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand)

One 12-ounce bottle Belgian ale at room temperature, plus 16 to 24 ounces more for washing

1.  In a nonreactive 2-quart saucepan, heat 1 quart of the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Stir in 1 teaspoon of the coriander and 1 teaspoon of the orange peel, then slowly raise the temperature to 110°F over the course of 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, cover, and let steep for 45 minutes, or until the temperature drops back down to 90°F.

2.  Place the remaining 3 quarts of milk in a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot. Pour the steeped milk through a fine-mesh strainer into the larger pot of milk and whisk to combine. Discard the coriander and orange. Bring the milk to 90°F over low heat; this should take 5 minutes. Turn off the heat.

3.  Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 1 hour, or until the curds give a clean break.

4.  Still maintaining 90°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 10 minutes. Gently stir the curds for 15 minutes to expel more whey, then let settle for another 10 minutes. The curds will shrink to the size of small beans. Meanwhile, heat 2 quarts of water to 175°F. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds. Add enough hot water to bring the temperature to 93°F. Stir for 10 minutes. Repeat the process of removing whey and adding hot water, this time bringing the temperature to 100°F. Stir for 15 minutes, then let the curds settle for 10 minutes. Cover and let rest for 45 minutes, maintaining 100°F. The curds will mat and form a slab.

5.  Drain off enough whey to expose the slab of curds. Transfer the slab to a flat-bottomed colander, place it over the pot, and let drain for 5 minutes. Transfer the slab to a cutting board and cut into ⅜-inch-thick slices. Place in a bowl and gently toss with 2 teaspoons of the salt.

6.  Line a 5-inch tomme mold with damp cheesecloth and set it on a draining rack. Tightly pack half of the curds in the mold, cover with the cloth tails and the follower, and press at 5 pounds for 10 minutes, just to compact the curds slightly. Peel back the cloth and sprinkle on the remaining ½ teaspoon of coriander and ½ teaspoon of orange peel, then pack in the rest of the milled curds. Cover with the cloth tails and the follower and press at 8 pounds for 6 hours at room temperature. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press again at 8 pounds for 8 hours to thoroughly compress the curds.

7.  Pour the bottle of ale into a lidded nonreactive container large enough to hold both ale and cheese. Remove the cheese from the mold and cheesecloth and place in the ale. Soak the cheese, covered, for 8 hours at 55°F, flipping once.

8.  Remove the cheese from the ale and pat dry. Reserve and refrigerate the ale and place the cheese on a cheese mat. Air-dry at room temperature for 12 hours. Return the cheese to the ale and soak for another 12 hours at 55°F. Remove, pat dry, and air-dry at room temperature for 12 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Discard the ale.

9.  Prepare a brine-ale wash: boil ½ cup of water and let it cool, and combine with ½ cup of ale, then dissolve 1 teaspoon of salt in the liquid. Store in the refrigerator.

10.  Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box and ripen at 50°F and 90 percent humidity for 4 to 6 weeks. Flip the cheese daily for the first 2 weeks, then twice weekly thereafter. After each flip, pour a little brine-ale wash into a small dish, dip a small piece of cheesecloth in it, and use it to wipe the surface of the cheese. Discard any unused brine-ale wash after 1 week and make a fresh batch. Also wipe away any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the ripening box each time you flip the cheese.

11.  Wrap the cheese in cheese paper and store refrigerated for up to 1 month. If you vacuum-seal the cheese, remove it from the package and pat it dry before consuming it.

Cabra al Vino at 5 weeks

CABRA AL VINO

MAKES 1½ pounds
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 6 weeks: 3 hours to make the cheese; 16 hours to press; 2 days to soak and dry; 6 weeks to age

Cabra al Vino, which originated in Spain, is a pressed, firm goat cheese that is soaked in red wine, creating a beautiful purplish exterior. Typically, this cheese is smooth on the surface, so the mottled appearance of this version is a bit unusual (and, I think, far more interesting). It is achieved by pressing the cheese at a slightly lighter pressure than usual so that a few cracks and crevices are left to soak up the wine flavor. They also provide an opportunity for mold to grow, so monitor the cheese as it ages and wipe away any unwanted growth. If you choose to make a smooth-surfaced version, just press at eight pounds of pressure rather than five.

2 gallons pasteurized goat’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¾ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand)

One 750 ml bottle red wine, chilled to 55°F

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, letting the milk ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 1 hour, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Still maintaining 90°F, cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Gently stir the curds for 20 minutes, then let settle.

4.  Meanwhile, heat 2 quarts of water to 175°F. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds. Add enough hot water to bring the temperature to 93°F. Stir for 5 minutes. Repeat the process of removing whey and adding hot water, this time bringing the temperature to 102°F. Stir for 15 minutes, then let the curds settle for 10 minutes. Cover and let rest for 45 minutes, maintaining 102°F. The curds will mat slightly and form a slab.

5.  Drain off enough whey to expose the slab of curds. Using a mesh strainer or ladle, gently turn the curds over every 5 minutes for 15 minutes. Place the slab in a bowl and, using your hands, break it into ½-inch pieces and gently toss with 2 teaspoon of the salt.

6.  Line an 8-inch tomme mold with damp butter muslin and set it on a draining rack. Fill the mold with the milled curds, cover with the tails of the cloth and the follower, and press at 5 pounds for 8 hours at room temperature. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press again at 5 pounds for 8 hours at room temperature.

7.  Pour the wine into a lidded nonreactive container large enough to hold both wine and cheese. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it in the wine. Soak the cheese, covered, for 12 hours at 55°F, flipping once.

8.  Remove the cheese from the wine and pat dry. Reserve and refrigerate the wine and place the cheese on a cheese mat. Air-dry at room temperature for 12 hours. Return the cheese to the wine and soak for another 12 hours at 55°F. Remove, pat dry, and air-dry at room temperature for 12 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Discard the wine.

9.  Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box and ripen at 50°F and 85 percent humidity for 6 weeks. Flip the cheese daily for the first 2 weeks, then twice weekly thereafter. After each flip, wipe the surface with a small piece of cheesecloth dipped in a small amount of brine wash: boil ½ cup of water and let it cool, then add 1 teaspoon of salt and stir to dissolve. Store in the refrigerator. The brine wash will control unwanted mold growth. Discard any unused brine wash after 1 week and make a fresh batch. Also wipe away any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the ripening box each time you flip the cheese.

10.  After 2 weeks of ripening, you may wax coat the cheese and refrigerate for the duration of the aging time: up to 6 weeks. If you don’t want to wax coat, simply keep the cheese in the ripening box for 6 weeks as specified in step 9. After 3½ weeks or so, the cheese will have a musty, winery-meets-cheese-shop aroma.

VARIATION

This cheese can be made with beer instead of wine, in which case it is named Cabra al Birra. Substitute 25 fluid ounces (750 ml) of beer at room temperature for the wine and proceed with the same method.

Desert Sunset Pavé at 4 weeks

DESERT SUNSET PAVÉ

MAKES Two 10-ounce cheeses or one 1½-pound cheese
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
ALTERNATIVE MILKS Pasteurized goat’s milk or sheep’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 to 6 weeks: 2 hours to make the cheese; 12 hours to drain; 8 hours to soak; 24 hours to dry; 4 to 6 weeks to age

This bright orange pavé (square) washed-rind cheese was inspired by the French sheep’s milk Brebirousse d’Argental—and by my cheese making time in Arizona. With flavors reminiscent of Taleggio, Desert Sunset stands an inch and a half tall and has a firm rind and a succulent, creamy paste. First soaked in a brine containing annatto, it is also washed during ripening with an annatto-salt solution to further develop the orange color and the crusty rind.

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium candidum mold powder

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) for brining and washing

Liquid annatto for brining and washing

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and mold powders over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 1 hour. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 30 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Still maintaining 90°F, cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes to firm up. Gently stir the curds for 30 minutes, removing 2 cups of whey every 10 minutes. Then let the curds settle for 10 minutes.

4.  Line one 7-inch square Taleggio mold or two 4-inch square cheese molds with damp butter muslin. Place the molds on a draining rack over a tray and gently ladle the curds into the molds, pressing them into the corners with your hand. Cover the curds with the tails of cloth and cover the entire setup with a kitchen towel. Let drain for 6 hours in a warm spot in the kitchen. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then let drain for 6 more hours.

5.  Two hours before the end of the draining time, make a soaking brine by combining 2½ cups of cool nonchlorinated water, ½ cup of salt, and 8 drops of annatto in a lidded nonreactive container large enough to hold the brine and cheese. Stir to dissolve the salt completely, then cool to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it in the brine. Soak the cheese, covered, at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours, flipping at least once.

6.  Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry at room temperature on a cheese mat or rack for 24 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch.

7.  Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box and ripen at 50°F and 85 percent humidity, flipping every other day. At least 2 hours before you flip the cheese the first time, make a brine wash by combining 1½ teaspoons of salt, 3 drops of annatto, and 1 cup of cool nonchlorinated water in a sterilized glass jar; shake well to dissolve the salt, then chill to 50°F to 55°F. After each flip, pour a little brine wash into a small dish, dip a small piece of cheesecloth in it, wring it out, and use it to wipe the surface of the cheese. Discard any unused brine wash after 1 week and make a fresh batch. Also wipe away any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the ripening box each time you flip the cheese.

8.  The rind will become crusty and firm, and in 10 to 14 days an orange color will develop; this will deepen as the cheeses age. After 4 weeks, the rind should be slightly moist and the center of the cheese should feel soft; at this point, it’s ready to eat. Consume within 2 weeks.

WASHED-RIND TELEME-STYLE

MAKES 2 pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 weeks to 2 months: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 18 to 20 hours to drain; 2 weeks to 2 months to age

Teleme is a California cow’s milk cheese created by the Peluso family in 1919; it was originally known as Peluso’s Teleme. Inspired by Peluso’s Teleme, this version has a washed rind and the traditional square shape. You may eat it young, at two weeks, if you choose.

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

½ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture

½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

2 tablespoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 86°F; this should take 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 1 hour. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into 1½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over low heat, slowly bring the curds to 102°F over a 40-minute period, stirring continuously to prevent them from matting. The curds will release more whey, firm up, and shrink to the size of large lima beans.

4.  Once 102°F is reached, remove from the heat, maintain the temperature, and let the curds rest undisturbed for 30 minutes. Heat 2 quarts of water to 120°F. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds. Add enough hot water to bring the temperature to 104°F. Stir continuously for 15 minutes, or until the curds cling together when pressed in your hand.

5.  Line a colander with damp butter muslin and place it over a bowl or bucket large enough to capture the whey, which can be discarded. Gently ladle the curds into the colander and rinse with cold non-chlorinated water to cool them. Let drain for 5 minutes, then sprinkle in 1 tablespoon of the salt and gently and thoroughly toss with your hands.

6.  Place a mat on a draining rack set over a tray, then set a 7-inch square Taleggio mold on the mat. Put the sack of rinsed curds in the mold and press the curds into the corners. Cover the top of the curds with the cloth tails and press with your hands to mat the curds. Let drain at room temperature for 6 hours for moist cheese, or 8 hours for a firmer cheese. Flip the cheese once halfway through this draining period.

7.  Remove the cheese from the mold and pat dry. Rub the surface of the cheese with the remaining 1 tablespoon of salt and place it back in the mold without the cloth. Return the mold to the mat on the draining rack for 12 hours, flipping once in that time.

8.  Remove the cheese from the mold and place in a ripening box at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity for at least 2 weeks, flipping the cheese daily for even ripening. After 1 week, wash with a simple brine solution (see Brine Chart) twice a week for up to 2 months of ripening time. When the desired ripeness is reached, wrap and refrigerate until ready to eat.

Lemon Vodka Spirited Goat at 5 weeks

LEMON VODKA SPIRITED GOAT

MAKES 1½ pounds
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 3 months: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 13 hours to press; 8 hours to brine; 12 hours to dry; 2 to 3 months to age

Époisses and other spirit-washed cheeses were the inspiration for this unique goat cheese. A tasting at Charbay Distillery in Napa clinched for me which spirit would wash the rind: their Meyer Lemon Vodka. The aromatic vodka and tangy goat’s milk work in perfect harmony to develop the flavors in the unctuous finished cheese. I dedicate this cheese to Miles Karakasevic, the proud patriarch, twelfth-generation winemaker, and master distiller at family-owned Charbay Winery and Distillery. You can purchase their spirits online at www.charbay.com.

2 gallons pasteurized goat’s milk

½ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture

¼ teaspoon Thermo B powdered thermophilic starter culture

Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

Pinch of Brevibacterium linens powder

1 cup Charbay Meyer Lemon Vodka or other lemon-infused vodka

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle both starters and a pinch of the mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Still maintaining 90°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let rest for 10 minutes. Gently stir the curds for 10 minutes, then let rest for 30 minutes. Slowly raise the temperature to 100°F over 30 minutes, stirring the curds every 5 minutes. Let the curds sit for about 10 minutes; they will sink to the bottom.

4.  Ladle out enough whey to expose the curds, then gently ladle the curds into a colander lined with damp butter muslin and let drain for 5 minutes.

5.  Line an 8-inch tomme mold or 7-inch square Taleggio mold with damp butter muslin and set on a draining rack. Transfer the curds to the mold, gently distributing and pressing into the mold with your hand. Cover the curds with the cloth tails and a follower and press at 3 pounds for 1 hour.

6.  Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press at 5 pounds for 12 hours, flipping once at 6 hours.

7.  Make 2 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours, flipping at least once during the brining process.

8.  Remove the cheese from the brine and pat it dry. Air-dry on a cheese mat at room temperature for 12 hours, or until the surface is dry.

9.  Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box and age at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity, flipping daily for 1 week. Each time you flip the cheese, wipe any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the box.

10.  After 1 week, begin washing the surface with bacterial wash. Twelve hours before the first washing, prepare the solution by dissolving 1½ teaspoons of salt in 1 cup of cool nonchlorinated water in a sterilized glass jar. Add 1 pinch each of Geotrichum candidum mold powder and B. linens powder, whisk to incorporate, cover, and store at 55°F.

11.  When ready to wash, pour 1½ tablespoons of the bacterial wash into a small bowl, preserving the rest for another washing. Dip a small piece of cheesecloth into the solution, squeeze out the excess, and rub it all over the entire surface of the cheese. Using a paper towel, wipe any excess moisture from the ripening box. Flip the cheese over and return it to the ripening box. Discard any bacterial wash left in the bowl.

12.  Wash the cheese twice a week for 2 months, alternating the bacterial wash with spirits. To wash with the vodka, pour a little vodka into a bowl, dip a small piece of cheesecloth in it, wring out, and rub it over the entire surface of the cheese. Discard any vodka left in the bowl. The rind will become slightly sticky, and at 10 to 14 days a light orange color will develop, which will deepen as the cheese ages. At 2 months, the rind should be only slightly moist and the cheese should be soft to the touch in the center; it is now ready to eat. The cheese should be eaten within 3 months.

Époisses

ÉPOISSES

MAKES Two ½-pound cheeses
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH About 6 weeks: 4 hours to make the cheese; 24 hours to drain; 18 hours to dry; 6 weeks to age

Époisses is the king of all “stinkers,” lavishly bathed in Marc de Bourgogne brandy to develop its rind and characteristic “I Am Here” aroma. It is the aristocratic French relative to the Italian Robiola. Making an Époisses-style cheese at home is challenging and requires a good deal of attention. This adaptation was contributed by Jim Wallace, cheese making consultant for New England Cheesemaking Supply, educator, and passionate hobbyist cheese maker. This recipe uses very little rennet, and like the Robiola recipes and The Goat Experience, it relies on extended lactic fermentation for curd development. Because pasteurized milk is being used, mesophilic culture is added to replace the bacteria that would be present in raw milk. Époisses is traditionally housed in a round wooden cheese box that both holds and protects the cheese. You can follow tradition by purchasing such a cheese box (see Resources) or recycle one from a store-bought cheese.

1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk

⅛ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

Pinch of Brevibacterium linens powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

2 drops liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand)

3 cups Marc de Bourgogne brandy, other similar pomace brandy, or grappa

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 86°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and B. linens powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let the milk ripen for 4 hours at room temperature, until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Over low heat, bring the curds back to 86°F. Cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. At this point the curds will be extremely soft.

4.  Line two 4-inch Camembert molds with damp cheesecloth and set on a draining rack over a tray. Gently ladle the curds into the molds, cover with the cloth tails, and cover the entire setup with a kitchen towel. Let drain for 24 hours at room temperature, preferably in a warm spot in the kitchen. Once the drained curds have shrunk to half the height of the molds, flip the cheeses over every 2 hours.

5.  Remove the cheeses from the molds and cloth. Rub about 1 teaspoon of salt over the entire surface of each cheese. Air-dry at room temperature on a rack for 18 hours, until the surface is dry to the touch.

6.  Place the cheeses on a mat in a ripening box and age at 50°F and 90 percent humidity, flipping every 3 days for 6 weeks. Before you flip the cheese the first time, make a brine wash by dissolving 1 teaspoon of salt in ½ cup of boiled water and cooling it to 50°F to 55°F. Each time you flip the cheese, first use a paper towel to wipe any moisture from the surface of the cheese, then wipe the entire surface of the cheese with a small piece of cheesecloth dipped in the brine wash. Discard any unused brine wash. Also use a paper towel to wipe any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the ripening box each time you flip the cheese.

7.  After the first week, begin alternating the brine wash with a wash of diluted brandy (50 percent brandy and 50 percent water). Pour a little of the diluted brandy into a small dish, dip a small piece of cheesecloth in it, and rub it over the entire surface of the cheese. Discard any brandy wash left in the dish. At 3 weeks, begin alternating the brine wash with undiluted brandy.

8.  Continue washing and flipping the cheese every 3 days for 6 weeks total. The rind will become slightly sticky and very aromatic, and at 10 to 14 days a pale orange color will develop; this will change to the color of the brandy used and deepen as the cheese ages. At 6 weeks, the rind should be moist but not sticky, the center of the cheese should feel very soft, and the paste should be runny. When the cheese is nearing the desired ripeness, transfer it to the traditional wooden cheese box to finish (see headnote). Move the cheese to the refrigerator when fully ripened, and consume within 2 weeks.

MORBIER

MAKES 1¾ pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 2 to 4 months: 3 hours to make the cheese; 13 hours to press; 6 hours to brine; 12 hours to dry; 2 to 4 months to age

Morbier was created hundreds of years ago in France’s Franche-Comté region to use surplus curds from making hundred-pound wheels of Comté. The leftover curds from the morning milking were topped with a layer of ash from the wood fire to keep a rind from forming and keep pests away until the evening milking. Topped with the evening batch of curds, the curds with their layer of ash were then pressed and left to ripen for a few months. Today’s Morbier is typically made from one batch of milk with the curds separated in the middle by a layer of vegetable ash; that’s the method being used here. A small amount of B. linens powder in a brine solution is used to develop desirable light brownish mold growth on the rind.

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

Brevibacterium linens powder

½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

⅛ teaspoon vegetable ash mixed with ⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and a pinch of B. linens powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 1 hour. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Maintaining 90°F, cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Over very low heat, slowly raise the temperature to 100°F over 30 minutes, stirring a few times. Let the curds settle for about 10 minutes. Using a measuring cup, remove about half of the whey and replace with enough 110°F water so the curds reach 104°F. Gently stir for 5 minutes, then let the curds settle.

4.  Line 2 colanders with damp butter muslin, divide the curds between them, and let drain for 20 minutes. Line a draining rack with damp paper towels, extending the towels a few inches beyond the edges of the rack, and place an 8-inch tomme mold on top. Line the mold with damp butter muslin. Transfer the contents of 1 colander of drained curds to the mold and press the curds into the edges with your hands. Wearing disposable gloves, use a fine-mesh strainer to carefully dust the surface of the curds with ash to within ½ inch of the edge. The dampened paper towels should catch any stray ash. Gently add the second batch of curds on top of the ash layer and press into the edges with your hands. Pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles, then cover the curds with the cloth tails and the follower and press at 5 pounds for 1 hour. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press at 8 pounds for 12 hours or overnight.

5.  Make 2 quarts of near-saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 6 hours, flipping at least once during the brining process.

6.  Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Place it on a cheese mat and air-dry at room temperature for 12 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch.

7.  Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box to age at 50°F to 55°F and 85 to 90 percent humidity for 1 week. Flip daily, using a paper towel to wipe away any accumulated moisture in the box each time you flip the cheese.

8.  After 1 week, wash the surface with bacterial wash. Twelve hours before this washing, prepare the solution: Boil ½ cup of water and let it cool in a glass jar, then add 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and stir to dissolve. Add a small pinch of B. linens powder, cover the jar with the lid, and gently agitate to dissolve. Set aside at room temperature for the bacteria to rehydrate.

9.  When ready to wash, pour 1½ tablespoons of the bacterial wash into a small bowl, preserving the rest for another washing. Dip a small piece of cheesecloth into the solution, squeeze out the excess, and rub it over the entire surface of the cheese. Flip the cheese over and return it to the ripening box. Discard any bacterial wash left in the bowl.

10.  Two times a week, wash the cheese with a piece of cheesecloth dipped in simple brine (see Brine Chart) or rub the surface of the cheese with a soft brush dipped in brine. Repeat this process twice a week for 2 months, flipping the cheese each time. The rind will become slightly sticky, and at 10 to 14 days a light orange color will develop, deepening to a tan shade as the cheese ages. After 3 weeks, the paste under the surface at the edges of the cheese will begin to feel soft. Continue to wash or brush for 2 months. At 2 months, the rind should be only slightly moist (not sticky) and the cheese should be soft to the touch; it is now ready to eat. Or, wrap the cheese in cheese paper and refrigerate to age for up to 2 more months if desired.

Wood-Fired Morbier

In early times, Morbier was made in a cauldron over an open fire. The soot that accumulated on the pot or cooled wood ash from the fire was used to coat and protect the curds, and the milk became infused by the smoke. The resulting cheese was deliciously smoky. Today, you can emulate this ancient method by heating the milk for your Morbier in a Dutch oven either in a wood-fired oven or over indirect heat on an open campfire or grill.

To heat the milk in a wood-fired oven, you will need two pots: one for the milk and one to heat the water used to replace the whey. Build a four-log fire. Place the milk in a ceramic-coated Dutch oven or heat-resistant clay pot. After 20 minutes of log burning, place both pots, uncovered, on the floor of the oven about 8 inches from the fire. It will take about 15 to 18 minutes for the milk to reach the desired 90°F, and about 12 minutes longer to heat to 100°F. Carry on to finish the cheese as directed in the recipe.

Mixed-Milk Morbier

This version of Morbier, inspired by Carr Valley’s Mobay, is made from half cow’s milk and half goat’s milk, separated by a layer of vegetable ash. The goat’s milk layer will be white and the cow’s milk layer will be a light yellow. I’ve chosen to keep the traditional B. linens wash on the rind, but you could opt for a natural rind, looking more like a Jack cheese, by washing with a brine solution of ½ cup water to 1 teaspoon salt, cooled to 55°F, rather than the suggested bacteria solution. If you take the natural rind route, age the cheese for 2 months.

Follow the recipe for Morbier, but use 1 gallon each of pasteurized whole cow’s milk and goat’s milk, heated in separate 6-quart stockpots. Use the same amount of starter culture, B. linens, and calcium chloride, divided between the two pots. For the rennet, use ⅝ teaspoon in all, divided into ¼ and ⅜ teaspoons, each diluted in ¼ cup of cool nonchlorinated water. Add the ¼ teaspoon of diluted rennet to the cow’s milk and the ⅜ teaspoon of diluted rennet to the goat’s milk. Proceed with the recipe as written.

PORT SALUT

MAKES 1¼ pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 weeks: 2½ hours to make the cheese; about 12 hours to press; 8 hours to brine; 12 hours to dry; 4 weeks to age

Port Salut is a pressed, orange-colored, washed-rind cow’s milk cheese with a rich, buttery aroma and smooth, mild paste. It has no discernable rind, but it does have a firm surface. Its was created in the nineteenth century by Trappist monks at an abbey in Entrammes, Brittany, called Notre Dame du Port-du-Salut. The hand-crafted version of Port Salut now produced by the Trappists is called Entrammes.

6 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

Brevibacterium linens powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  In a nonreactive 8-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and a pinch of B. linens powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 1 hour. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat 1 quart of water to 140°F. Ladle off about one-third of the whey and replace with enough 140°F water to bring the temperature to 92°F. Gently stir for 10 minutes, then let the curds settle for 10 minutes. Repeat the process, again removing one-third of the whey and this time adding enough 140°F water to bring the temperature to 98°F. Gently stir for 10 minutes, then let the curds settle for 15 minutes.

4.  Line a colander with damp cheesecloth, ladle the curds into it, and let drain for 10 minutes. Line a 5-inch tomme mold with damp cheesecloth and set it on a draining rack. Transfer the drained curds to the lined cheese mold, pressing the curds into the edges with your hand. Pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles, cover the curds with the cloth tails and follower, and press at 5 pounds for 30 minutes. Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press at 8 pounds for 12 hours or overnight.

5.  Make 2 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours, flipping at least once during the brining process.

6.  Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Place on a cheese mat and air-dry at room temperature for 12 hours. Place the cheese on a mat in a ripening box and age at 50°F to 55°F and 90 to 95 percent humidity, flipping daily for 1 week. Each time you flip the cheese, wipe any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the ripening box with a paper towel.

7.  After 1 week, begin washing the surface with bacterial wash. Twelve hours before the first washing, prepare the solution: Boil ½ cup of water and let it cool in a glass jar, then add 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and stir to dissolve. Add a small pinch of B. linens powder, cover the jar with the lid, and gently agitate to dissolve. Set aside at room temperature for the bacteria to rehydrate.

8.  When ready to wash, pour 1½ tablespoons of the bacterial wash into a small bowl, preserving the rest for another washing. Dip a small piece of cheesecloth into the solution, squeeze out the excess, and rub the entire surface of the cheese. Flip the cheese over and return it to the ripening box. Discard any bacterial wash left in the bowl.

9.  Repeat this process every 2 days, flipping the cheese each time. After you have washed the cheese with bacterial wash 4 times, switch to brine (1 teaspoon of salt dissolved in ½ cup of boiled water, cooled to 50°F to 55°F).

10.  The rind will become slightly sticky, and at 10 to 14 days a light yellow-orange color will develop; this color will deepen as the cheese ages. Continue to wash and ripen for 4 weeks total. At this point the rind should be moist but not sticky and the center of the cheese should feel somewhat soft. Consume within 2 weeks of desired ripeness.

REBLOCHON

MAKES Two 1-pound cheeses
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk with the highest percentage of milk fat you can find
START TO FINISH 2 to 6 weeks: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 12 hours to press; 2 to 6 weeks to age

Reblochon (see photo) is a renowned cow’s milk cheese from the eastern part of Haute-Savoie in France. Reblochon has B. linens added to the milk, which allows the brine-washed rind to develop the desired bacteria. Though developed enough at two weeks to consume, its thin, tannish orange rind and delicious oozy paste are at their best at five to six weeks.

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Brevibacterium linens powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 85°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and B. linens powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 85°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 85°F for 30 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Still maintaining 85°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Slowly warm the curds to 95°F over 30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes, then remove from the heat and let the curds settle.

4.  Ladle out enough whey to expose the curds. Line two 5-inch tomme molds with damp cheesecloth and set them on a draining rack over a tray. Transfer the curds to the molds; you may have to mound them up in the molds, but they will all fit in after 10 to 15 minutes of draining. Let drain for 15 minutes, then pull up the cloth and smooth out any wrinkles. Cover the curds with the tails of cloth and the followers. Let drain on the rack for 30 minutes, then flip the cheeses, return them to the molds, and replace the followers. Flip every 20 minutes for 2 hours, then press at 5 pounds for 12 hours or overnight.

5.  Remove the cheeses from the molds and cloth. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of salt on the top and bottom of each cheese. Place the cheeses on a mat in a ripening box and age at 55°F and 90 percent humidity, flipping every other day. Before you turn the cheese the first time, make a brine wash: boil ½ cup of water and let it cool, then add 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and stir to dissolve. Store in the refrigerator. Each time you flip the cheese, wipe the surface with a small piece of cheesecloth dipped in a small amount of brine wash. The brine wash will control unwanted mold growth. Discard any unused brine wash and make a fresh batch each week. Also wipe away any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the ripening box each time you flip the cheese.

6.  Continue flipping and washing the cheese every 2 days for 2 to 6 weeks. At 10 to 14 days, a light yellow-orange color will develop, deepening as the cheese ages. At 4 weeks, the rind should be moist but not sticky and the center of the cheese should feel soft. Wrap the cheese in cheese paper, refrigerate when at the desired ripeness, and consume within 2 weeks of desired ripeness.

TALEGGIO

MAKES One 2-pound cheese or two 1-pound cheeses
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 to 5 weeks: 2½ hours to make the cheese; 12 hours to drain; 8 hours to brine; 24 hours to dry; 4 to 5 weeks to age

Taleggio is a washed, thin rind cheese that has been made in Lombardy in Italy for over a thousand years. Due to the B. linens bacteria that is added to the milk, the exterior ranges from yellow to orange, darkening as it ages, and the cheese emits a strong odor as it ripens. Taleggio is mild and sweet when young, becoming mushroomy and tangy as it ages.

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

Pinch of Brevibacterium linens powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  Heat the milk in a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot over low heat to 90°F; this should take 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and B. linens powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 1 hour. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 30 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Still maintaining 90°F, cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Gently stir the curds for 30 minutes, removing 2 cups of whey every 10 minutes. Then, let the curds rest undisturbed for 10 minutes.

4.  Line one 7-inch square Taleggio mold or two 4-inch square bottomless cheese molds with damp cheesecloth and set on a draining rack over a tray. Gently ladle the curds into the molds, pressing them into the edges with your hand. Cover with the tails of cloth and cover the entire setup with a kitchen towel. Let drain for 12 hours at room temperature, preferably in a warm spot in the kitchen. Every 2 hours, remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress.

5.  Make 3 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours, flipping at least once during the brining process.

6.  Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Air-dry at room temperature on a cheese mat for 24 hours, or until the surface is dry to the touch. Place on a mat in a ripening box to age at 50°F and 90 percent humidity, flipping every other day. Before you flip the cheese the first time, make a brine wash: boil ½ cup of water and let it cool, then add 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and stir to dissolve. Store in the refrigerator. Each time you flip the cheese, wipe the surface with a small piece of cheesecloth dipped in a small amount of brine wash. The brine wash will control unwanted mold growth. Discard any unused brine wash and make a fresh batch each week. Also wipe away any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the ripening box each time you flip the cheese.

7.  Flip and wash the cheese every 2 days for 4 to 5 weeks. At 10 to 14 days, a light yellow-orange color will develop, deepening as the cheese ages. At 4 to 5 weeks, the rind should be moist but not sticky and the center of the cheese should feel soft. Consume within 2 weeks of desired ripeness.

Blue Cheeses

Some of the most widely recognized old-world cheeses fall in the blue family, including Italian Gorgonzola, French Roquefort, English Stilton, Spanish Cabrales, Irish Cashel Blue, and German Cambozola. Blues are made from cow’s, goat’s, or sheep’s milk or combinations thereof, resulting in a variety of flavor profiles from mellow and sweet to assertive and pungent. The textures vary too, from creamy to crumbly, and shapes range from dense wheels to delicate bloomy logs. It’s been said that blue-veined cheeses were born centuries ago, probably resulting from mistakes made when making other cheeses: defects and cracks in the rind would have allowed oxygen into the interior of the cheese, activating molds that had found a place to reside and grow.

The distinctive flavors and blue, green, or grayish veins come from Penicillium roqueforti or Penicillium glaucum molds; depending on the style of cheese, there may be Geotrichum mold added as well. Traditionally, the Penicillium mold was grown on rye bread and harvested, and the mold spores were added to the cheese making milk. Now most cheese makers use commercially available molds in powdered form, which are typically added to the milk along with starter cultures.

Many blues are pressed, then pierced to create pathways in which the mold will grow. Some have the P. roqueforti mold layered in while the curds are draining; others develop blue rinds; and still others have a kiss of the characteristic blue spiciness in the paste with no signs of blue color. Generally, the more veining—and therefore more blue mold development—the sharper the cheese’s flavors, though of course the milks used also have a large influence on the flavor profile. Depending on style, many of the blues ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity. They typically take four to twelve weeks to ripen and up to a year or more to age.

Today there are many blues being made in a variety of styles, including Jasper Hill Farm Bayley Hazen Blue, Marin French Le Petit Bleu, Mozzarella Company Deep Ellum Blue, Point Reyes Original Blue, Rogue Smokey Blue and Oregonzola, Roth Käse Buttermilk Blue, and Westfield Farm goat’s milk Classic Blue Log.

Bloomy Blue Log Chèvre at 3 weeks

BLOOMY BLUE LOG CHÈVRE

MAKES Two 6-ounce logs
MILK Pasteurized goat’s milk
START TO FINISH 4 weeks: 30 minutes to make the cheese; 18 hours to ripen; 24 hours to drain; 4 weeks to age

Inspired by Saint-Maure, Valençay, and a few of my favorite American bloomy goat cheeses, this mild-flavored blue log has just a hint of P. roqueforti mold added for the perfect balance with the tangy goat flavor. This cheese can also be made in a round like a Camembert or in a pyramid like a Valençay.

1 gallon pasteurized goat’s milk

¼ teaspoon Aroma B powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium candidum mold powder

Pinch of Geotrichum candidum 15 mold powder

Pinch of Penicillium roqueforti mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

1½ tablespoons vegetable ash

1.  Heat the milk in a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot over low heat to 72°F; this should take 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and mold powders over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 72°F for 18 hours, or until the curds form a firm mass and the whey is floating on the top.

3.  Place 2 Camembert or other round, straight-sided molds on a mat on a draining rack over a tray, and steady 2 cylindrical Saint-Maure molds inside them.

4.  With a ladle or skimmer, gently cut ½-inch-thick slices of curds and layer them in the cylindrical molds to fill. Let drain until more curds can be added to the molds. Do not be tempted to add another mold; the curds will compress as the whey drains out, making room for all of the curds.

5.  Cover the molds, rack, and tray with a kitchen towel and let the cheeses drain for 24 hours at room temperature. Remove any accumulated whey a few times while draining, wiping out the tray when you do so. Flip the cheeses after 6 hours, or when they are firm enough to handle, then flip them a few more times during the 24 hours. At the end of 24 hours, the curds will have reduced to about half the height of the molds.

6.  Once the cheeses have stopped draining and the curds have compressed to below the halfway point of the molds, remove the molds and sprinkle 2 teaspoons of the salt over the entire surface of each cheese. Set on the rack for 10 minutes to allow the salt to dissolve.

7.  In a small bowl or jar, combine the vegetable ash with the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Wearing disposable gloves, use a fine-mesh strainer to lightly dust the cheeses with vegetable ash, coating them completely. Gently pat the ash onto the surface of the cheeses. Place the dusted cheeses at least 1 inch apart on a clean cheese mat in a ripening box. Cover the box loosely with the lid and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours. Let drain and wipe out any moisture from the box, then ripen the cheese at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity for 2 weeks. For the first few days, adjust the lid to be slightly open for a portion of each day to maintain the desired humidity level. The surface of the cheese should appear moist but not wet.

8.  Flip the cheeses one-quarter turn daily to maintain their log shape. After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear. After 10 to 14 days, the cheeses will be fully coated in white mold. After 3 weeks, some of the dark ash will appear through the white mold. Left a bit longer, more dark ash will appear. After a total of 4 weeks from the start of ripening, wrap in cheese paper and store in the refrigerator. It is best to consume this cheese when it reaches your desired ripeness.

BLUE GOUDA

MAKES 1½ pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
ALTERNATIVE MILKS Blend of raw or pasteurized cow’s and goat’s milks; raw or pasteurized sheep’s milk
START TO FINISH 6 weeks to 4 months: 1½ hours to make the cheese; 6½ hours to press; 8 hours to brine; 1 to 2 days to dry; 6 weeks to 4 months to age

Gouda is the hallmark cheese of Holland. The plain version is perfectly yummy, but blue is even better. This creamy cheese is true to the Gouda style but lightly blue, without any piercing veins. Though this cheese would typically be made with all cow’s milk, a fifty-fifty blend of cow’s and goat’s milks is wonderful. The process of cooking the curds gives the cheese a smooth, elastic paste, and the cheese is waxed so it can be aged without the need to monitor its progress.

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium roqueforti mold powder

½ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water (omit if using raw milk)

½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or cheese salt

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot, heat the milk over low heat to 86°F; this should take 15 to 18 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix in well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 45 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in for 1 minute, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Still maintaining 86°F, cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and let sit for 5 minutes. Then stir for 5 minutes and let stand for 5 minutes. Heat 2 quarts of water to 140°F and maintain that heat. When the curds sink to the bottom of the pot, ladle off 2 cups of the whey, then add enough 140°F water to bring the curds to 92°F. Gently stir for 10 minutes, then let the curds settle. Ladle off enough whey to expose the tops of the curds, then add enough 140°F water to bring the curds to 98°F. Gently stir for 20 minutes, or until the curds have shrunk to the size of small beans. Let the curds settle for 10 minutes; they will knit together in the bottom of the pot.

4.  Warm a colander with hot water, then drain off the whey and place the knitted curds in the colander. Let drain for 5 minutes. Line a 5-inch tomme mold with damp cheesecloth and set it on a draining rack over a tray. Using your hands, break off 1-inch chunks of curd and distribute into the mold. Lightly press them into place to fill the gaps. Pull the cloth up tight and smooth, cover the curds with the cloth tails and the follower, and press at 5 pounds for 30 minutes.

5.  Remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then press at 10 pounds for 6 hours.

6.  Make 3 quarts of saturated brine (see Brine Chart) and chill to 50°F to 55°F. Remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it in the brine to soak at 50°F to 55°F for 8 hours, flipping it once during the brining.

7.  Remove the cheese from the brine and pat dry. Place on a rack and air-dry at room temperature for 1 to 2 days, or until the surface is dry to the touch.

8.  Place on a mat in a ripening box, cover loosely, and age at 50°F to 55°F and 85 percent humidity for 1 week, flipping daily. Remove any unwanted mold with a small piece of cheesecloth dampened in a vinegar-salt solution.

9.  Coat with wax and store at 50°F to 55°F and 75 percent humidity for at least 6 weeks and up to 4 months. The cheese will be ready to eat at 6 weeks.

Buttermilk Blue at 4 weeks

BUTTERMILK BLUE

MAKES 10 ounces
MILKS Pasteurized whole cow’s milk, cultured buttermilk, heavy cream
START TO FINISH 6 weeks to 3 months: 2 hours to make the cheese; 13 hours to drain and ripen; 6 weeks to 3 months or longer to age

Inspired by the popular, award-winning Buttermilk Blue from Roth Käse in Wisconsin, this tangy yet creamy blue is made with a blend of whole milk, buttermilk, and heavy cream. The buttermilk adds acidity, and its cultures contribute to the cheese’s piquant flavor. This pierced cheese is formed without pressing, allowing the curds to drain and compact onto themselves.

2 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk

1 quart cultured buttermilk, homemade (see variation on Crème Fraîche) or store-bought

2 cups heavy cream

¼ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture

Penicillium roqueforti mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

1½ teaspoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand), cheese salt, or fine flake sea salt

1.  In a 6-quart stockpot over low heat, heat the milk, buttermilk, and cream to 90°F; this should take about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and a pinch of the mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix in well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and maintain 90°F for 1½ hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Still maintaining 90°F, cut the curds into 1-inch pieces and let sit for 10 minutes. Then gently stir for 10 minutes to shrink the curds slightly and firm them up. Let stand for another 15 minutes, or until the curds sink to the bottom. Ladle off enough whey to expose the curds.

4.  Line a colander with damp butter muslin and gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 10 minutes. Tie the corners of the cloth together to form a draining sack and hang for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the whey stops draining.

5.  Line a 4-inch Camembert mold with damp butter muslin and place it on a rack over a tray. Gently ladle the curds into the mold, filling it to one-fourth its height and pressing down slightly with your hand to fill the gaps. Measure out ⅛ teaspoon of P. roqueforti powder. Lightly sprinkle the curds with one-third of the mold powder, then add more curds to fill the mold halfway, again gently pressing to fill the gaps and sprinkling another one-third of the mold powder over the curds. Repeat to fill the mold with two more layers of curds and one of mold powder; the curds should come up to about 1 inch from the top of the mold. Pull the cloth up tight and smooth and cover the curds with the cloth tails. Let the cheese drain for 4 hours at room temperature, then unwrap, flip, redress, and let drain for 4 more hours.

6.  Carefully remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, and sprinkle one side with ¾ teaspoon of the salt. Flip the cheese and place the cheese mold over it. The cheese will be fairly fragile, so handle it gently. Place it on a mat in a ripening box and sprinkle the remaining ¾ teaspoon of salt on the top.

7.  Let drain for 5 hours, then remove the mold. Dry salt the sides of the cheese. Put the cheese in a ripening box, cover loosely with the lid, and age at 54°F and 75 percent humidity for up to 1 week, or until the whey stops draining. Flip the cheese daily, draining off any whey that may have accumulated in the ripening box and using a paper towel to wipe any moisture from the bottom, sides, and lid of the box.

8.  Once the whey has stopped draining, use a sterilized knitting needle or round skewer to pierce the cheese all the way through to the other side, four times horizontally and four times vertically. These air passages will encourage mold growth.

9.  Secure the lid of the ripening box and ripen at 50°F and 85 to 90 percent humidity. Blue mold should appear on the exterior after 10 days. Watch the cheese carefully, flipping it daily and adjusting the lid if the humidity increases and too much moisture develops.

10.  Over the next 2 weeks, pierce the cheese one or two more times in the same locations to ensure proper aeration and blue vein development. If any excessive or undesirable mold appears on the exterior of the cheese, rub it off with a small piece of cheesecloth dipped in a vinegar-salt solution.

11.  Ripen for 6 weeks, rub off any excess mold with dry cheesecloth, then wrap the cheese in foil and store refrigerated for up to 3 more months or longer for a more pronounced flavor.

CAMBOZOLA

MAKES Two 10-ounce cheeses
MILKS Pasteurized whole cow’s milk, pasteurized heavy cream
START TO FINISH 4 to 6 weeks: 2 hours to make the cheese; 8 hours to drain; 4 to 6 weeks to age

Cambozola is a bloomy-rind blue that was developed less than fifty years ago by the Champignon Company in Germany as a blend of two classics: Camembert and Gorgonzola. Made with whole cow’s milk and a fair amount of cream, this version has the blended milks inoculated with the blue P. roqueforti mold rather than being injected with it as in the original. Cambozola is one of the more popular styles of blue cheese due to its pleasing bloomy characteristics, hint of blue, and rich mouthfeel.

½ gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk

½ gallon pasteurized heavy cream

¼ teaspoon Meso II or C101 powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium candidum mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium roqueforti mold powder

4 teaspoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand), cheese salt, or fine flake sea salt

1.  Combine the milk and cream in a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot set in a 96°F water bath over low heat and gently warm to 86°F; this should take about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and P. candidum mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix in well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 1½ hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and gently stir for 5 minutes. Let the curds rest for 5 minutes.

4.  Line a colander with damp cheesecloth and gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 20 minutes.

5.  Line 2 Saint-Maure molds with damp cheesecloth and set them on a draining rack over a tray. Using a skimmer, gently ladle the curds into the molds until half full. Sprinkle the top of each cheese with half of the P. roqueforti mold powder, then top off each mold with the remaining curds. Let drain for 6 hours at room temperature, draining off and wiping out any whey that collects. Remove any accumulated whey a few times during draining, wiping out the tray when you do so. When the cheeses are firm enough to handle (after about 8 hours), unmold and unwrap them and discard the cheesecloth, then flip them and return them to the unlined molds. Unmold and flip one more time while the cheeses are draining. The cheeses should drain for 8 to 10 hours total.

6.  Once the cheeses have stopped draining, remove them from the molds and place on a clean mat set in a clean, dry ripening box. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons of the salt over the tops of the cheeses and wait 5 minutes for the salt to dissolve. Flip the cheeses over and sprinkle the tops with the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt. Cover the box loosely with its lid. Ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity. High humidity is essential for making this cheese. Flip the cheeses daily, wiping away any whey that accumulates in the ripening box. When the cheeses are dry on the surface (after about 3 days), cover the box tightly to continue ripening.

7.  Continue to flip the cheeses daily and remove any moisture in the box. After about 5 days, the first signs of white fuzzy mold will appear. When the cheeses are fully coated in white mold (after about 8 days), aerate the center of each cheese by piercing horizontally from the sides through the center to the other side using a sterilized knitting needle or skewer. There should be 8 to 10 piercings through each cheese to allow proper development of blue veins. Pierce again in the same places if any holes close up over the next 10 to 12 days.

8.  Wrap in cheese paper 10 to 12 days after piercing and return to the ripening box. The cheese will begin to soften within 1 week or so. After a total of 4 weeks from the start of ripening, the cheese should be ready to eat, or continue to ripen to 6 weeks in the refrigerator.

COASTAL BLUE

MAKES Two 1-pound cheeses
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 6 weeks to 6 months: 3 hours to make the cheese; 12 hours to drain; 6 weeks to 6 months to age

This blue cheese recipe is from the Giacomini family, owners of Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, and Kuba Hemmerling, the company’s exceptionally skilled cheese maker. Fashioned after their cornerstone Original Blue, it is an everyday-style homemade blue cheese.

2 gallons pasteurized whole cow’s milk

½ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium roqueforti mold powder

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand)

1.  In a nonreactive 10-quart stockpot set in a 96°F water bath over low heat, gently warm the milk to 86°F; this should take about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter and the mold powder over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, letting the milk ripen for 1 hour, stirring every once in a while. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 1 to 1½ hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into ½-inch pieces and gently stir for 10 minutes, then let the curds settle to the bottom of the pot. Ladle out 2 quarts of whey and stir the curds for 5 more minutes.

4.  Line a colander or strainer with damp butter muslin and gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes. Line two 4-inch Camembert molds with damp cheesecloth and set them on a draining rack over a tray. Ladle the curds into the molds, pull the cloth up around the curds and cover the top with the tails of the cloth, and let drain for 12 hours at room temperature. Flip the cheeses at least four times to ensure a uniform shape and appearance.

5.  Remove the cheeses from the molds and sprinkle 1 tablespoon of salt over the entire surface of each, coating them evenly. Gently pat the salt into the surface. Set the cheeses on a mat in a ripening box and age at 68°F to 72°F and 90 percent humidity. Set the lid ajar a little so there is some air movement. Flip the cheeses daily, wiping away any excess moisture from the box with a paper towel.

6.  After 2 days, use a sterilized knitting needle or round skewer to pierce each cheese all the way through to the other side, 4 times horizontally and 4 times vertically. These air passages will encourage mold growth.

7.  Place the cheeses back in the box and ripen at 50°F to 56°F and 85 percent humidity for 3 to 4 weeks. After 10 days, blue mold should start to appear. Flip the cheeses daily, wiping away any excess moisture from the box with a paper towel. Rub off any undesirable mold with a piece of cheesecloth dipped in a vinegar-salt solution and wrung to dry.

8.  After sufficient blue mold growth is achieved, wrap them in tightly in foil and refrigerate for up to 4 to 6 months.

Profile: Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company

Northern California’s Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company is the home of Original Blue cheese, the unique artisan blue cheese that brought the company to prominence in the marketplace in the late 1990s. The Giacomini family’s certified organic dairy is the source of all of the milk that goes into their cheeses, thus all of their cheeses are designated as farmstead. In the fifty years since they began making farmstead products, the family (now mother, father, and four daughters) have all been involved in running the business every day, keeping a watchful eye on the quality of the cheese and the marketing of their brand, and now venturing “beyond blue,” into other handmade European-style cheeses that reflect the flavors of the region.

GORGONZOLA

MAKES 1½ pounds
MILK Pasteurized whole cow’s milk
START TO FINISH 3½ to 5½ months: 3 hours to make the cheese; 14 hours to drain; 8 hours to press; 4 days to salt and drain; 3½ to 5½ months to age

The most famous and possibly the oldest among the Italian blue cheeses, Gorgonzola is a cow’s milk cheese named for the town in Lombardy where it is said to have originated. Though it’s no longer made in Gorgonzola, it has DOC status in specific areas of Lombardy and Piedmont. Younger varieties are identified as Gorgonzola dolce, while cheeses aged closer to six months are known as Gorgonzola piccante. As with many other blues, Gorgonzola has Penicillium roqueforti mold sprinkled in between the layers of curds, and it is then pierced to develop the characteristic blue-green mold veins. Traditionally it was made from evening milk and morning milk (that is, milk from each of the two daily milkings) and molded by alternating layers of curds from the two batches. Both the contrast in bacteria development between the two batches and the ripening procedure contribute to Gorgonzola’s unique aromatics and flavors. This formula replicates the tradition by making two batches of curds from the same milk—one drained and ripened overnight and one made the next morning—which are then alternately layered in the cheese molds. You can also accomplish an interesting two-batch contrast by using store-bought pasteurized milk for one batch of curds and raw (then home-pasteurized) milk for the other.

6 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk

¼ teaspoon MM 100 powdered mesophilic starter culture

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium roqueforti mold powder

Kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or fine flake sea salt

1.  In a nonreactive 4-quart stockpot set in a 100°F water bath, gently warm 3 quarts of the milk to 90°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle half of the starter over the milk and let it rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix in well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, letting the milk ripen for 30 minutes. Add half of the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add half of the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 30 minutes, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into ¾-inch pieces and let rest for 10 minutes, then gently stir for 20 minutes to firm up the curds slightly. Let rest for another 15 minutes, or until the curds sink to the bottom.

4.  Ladle out enough whey to expose the curds. Line a colander with damp cheesecloth and gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 5 minutes. Tie the corners of the cheesecloth together to form a draining sack and hang at 55°F to let drain for 8 hours or overnight.

5.  The next morning, make a second batch of curds in the same manner, using the other half of the milk, starter, calcium chloride, and rennet. Let the curds drain at 55°F for 6 hours. Before the second batch is done draining, bring the first batch to room temperature.

6.  Untie the sacks and, keeping the batches separate, break the curds into 1-inch chunks. Line a 4-inch Camembert mold with damp cheesecloth and place it on a draining rack. Using your hands, line the bottom and sides of the mold with a thin layer of the second batch of curds. Press down slightly to fill the gaps. Layer half of the curds from the first batch in the mold and gently press down to fill the gaps. Sprinkle the top with one-third of the P. roqueforti mold powder, then repeat the process two more times until the mold is filled with four layers of curds, alternating first-batch and second-batch curds and finishing with second-batch curds. The mold should be filled to about 1 inch from the top.

7.  Pull the cheesecloth up around the curds and cover the top with the tails of the cloth and the follower. Press at 5 pounds for 2 hours, then unmold, unwrap, flip, and redress. Press at 8 pounds for 2 hours. Press at 8 pounds for 6 more hours, unwrapping, flipping, and redressing every 2 hours.

8.  Carefully remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, and sprinkle one side with ¾ teaspoon of salt. Flip the cheese over and place the cheese mold over it. The cheese will be fairly fragile, so handle it gently. Place it on a mat in a ripening box and sprinkle ¾ teaspoon of salt over the top. Let drain for 5 hours, then flip the cheese again. Repeat this process once a day for 3 more days, sprinkling a pinch of salt on each side the first time you flip it each day, then draining for 5 hours and flipping once again. Each time you flip the cheese, drain any accumulated whey and wipe the box dry with a paper towel.

9.  After the 4 days of salting, flipping, and draining, remove the mold and cover the ripening box loosely with the lid. Age at 50°F and 75 percent humidity for up to 2 weeks, or until the whey stops draining. Flip the cheese daily, removing any whey that accumulates in the ripening box and wiping any moisture from the sides of the box.

10.  Once the whey has stopped draining, use a sterilized knitting needle or round skewer to pierce the cheese all the way through to the other side, 4 times horizontally and 4 times vertically. These air passages will encourage mold growth.

11.  Secure the lid of the ripening box and ripen at 50°F and 85 to 90 percent humidity. Blue mold should appear on the exterior after 10 days. Watch the cheese carefully, turning it daily and adjusting the lid if the humidity increases and too much moisture develops. Remove any unwanted mold with a piece of cheesecloth dipped in a vinegar-salt solution.

12.  Over the 2 weeks after the initial piercing, pierce the cheese one or two more times in the same locations to ensure proper aeration and blue vein development.

13.  Ripen for 2 months, then wrap the cheese in foil and store refrigerated for 1 to 3 more months.

Smoked Brandy-Pecan Gorgonzola

To make a leaf-wrapped Gorzonzola with layers of flavor, cover 4 to 5 pecan leaves with ½ cup of brandy and place in a resealable bag; refrigerate at least overnight or until ready to use. Once the cheese has ripened for 1 month, wrap it in enough macerated leaves to completely encase the cheese. Ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 to 90 percent humidity for 2 weeks, flipping daily. Bring the cheese to room temperature, wipe it dry, and cold smoke it for 4 hours. Allow to rest for 2 hours, then wrap in plastic wrap or vacuum-seal and refrigerate. Consume within 3 weeks.

Roquefort at 4 weeks

ROQUEFORT

MAKES 1 pound
MILKS Raw or pasteurized whole cow’s milk, heavy cream
ALTERNATIVE MILK Raw or pasteurized sheep’s milk
START TO FINISH 6 weeks to 6 months: 3 hours to make the cheese; 24 hours to drain; 6 weeks to 6 months to age

Roquefort, the famous blue-veined cheese originating in the village of Roquefort in southern France, is traditionally made with sheep’s milk and aged in the region’s limestone caves. The high fat content of sheep’s milk results in cheeses with a supremely creamy texture and unique, rich flavor. This recipe uses equal amounts of whole cow’s milk and heavy cream to best emulate the fatty richness of sheep’s milk; you may add a small amount of lipase powder to bring the flavor closer to the piquant profile of the original. Age this cheese in your cellar or barn or another cool, dark place.

2 quarts pasteurized whole cow’s milk

2 quarts heavy cream

⅛ teaspoon MA 4001 powdered mesophilic starter culture

⅛ teaspoon mild lipase powder diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water 20 minutes before using (optional)

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water (omit if using raw milk)

½ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

⅛ teaspoon Penicillium roqueforti mold powder

1½ teaspoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or fine flake sea salt

1.  In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot set in a 100°F water bath, combine the milk and cream and gently warm to 90°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle the starter over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 90°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 30 minutes. Add the lipase, if using, and gently whisk in, then gently whisk in the calcium chloride and then the rennet. Cover and let sit, maintaining 90°F for 2 hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Cut the curds into 1-inch pieces and let rest for 15 minutes, then gently stir to firm up the curds slightly. Let rest for another 15 minutes, or until the curds sink to the bottom.

4.  Ladle out enough whey to expose the curds. Line a colander with damp cheesecloth and gently ladle the curds into it. Let drain for 10 minutes. Tie the corners of the cheesecloth together to form a draining sack and hang at room temperature to let drain for 30 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping. Set a 4-inch Camembert mold on a draining rack and line it with damp cheesecloth. Using your hands, layer one-fourth of the curds into the mold. Gently press down to fill in the gaps. Sprinkle the top of the curds with one-third of the P. roqueforti mold powder, then repeat the process until the mold is filled, finishing with a layer of curds. The mold should be filled to about 1 inch from the top.

5.  Let drain at room temperature for 8 hours. Once the curds have firmed enough to handle, after about 4 hours of draining, flip the cheese a time or two, keeping it in its cheesecloth. After 8 hours, remove the cheese from the mold, unwrap, flip, and redress, then let drain for 16 hours at room temperature.

6.  After 24 hours of draining, carefully remove the cheese from the mold, sprinkle one side with ¾ teaspoon of the salt, then flip it over and place it on a mat in a ripening box. Sprinkle the remaining ¾ teaspoon of salt over the top. The cheese will be fairly fragile at this point, so handle it gently.

7.  Cover the box loosely and ripen the cheese at 50°F to 55°F and 85 to 90 percent humidity. Flip the cheese daily for 1 week, draining any accumulated liquid in the ripening box and using a paper towel to wipe any moisture from the box.

8.  After 1 week, use a sterilized knitting needle or round skewer to pierce the cheese all the way through to the other side 4 times horizontally and 4 times vertically. These passages will encourage mold growth. Continue to ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 85 to 90 percent humidity. Blue mold should appear on the exterior after 10 days.

9.  Once the cheese has stopped draining whey, secure the box’s lid to control the humidity. Flip the cheese daily and adjust the lid if the humidity increases and too much moisture develops. Over the 2 weeks after the intial piercing, pierce one or two more times in the same locations to ensure proper aeration and blue vein development. Remove any excessive or unwanted mold with a piece of cheesecloth dipped in a vinegar-salt solution.

10.  Ripen the cheese for 6 to 8 weeks. When it reaches the desired creamy texture, wrap it in foil and store it, refrigerated, for up to 4 more months.

Stilton at 4 weeks

STILTON

MAKES 1 pound
MILKS Pasteurized whole cow’s milk, heavy cream
START TO FINISH 4 to 6 months: 2 hours to make the cheese; 8 hours to press; 4 days to drain; 4 to 6 months to age

Stilton is probably the best-known blue cheese in the world, having been produced in England since the 1700s. Enriched with cream, it is drier than most other blues and as a result has a slightly flaky texture. Though today it is pierced multiple times about one month into the ripening process to produce blue veining, traditionally the growth of the blue mold happened as a result of the layering process, when slabs of curds formed crevices to encourage this growth. The traditional method is employed here.

1 gallon pasteurized whole cow’s milk

1 cup heavy cream

Penicillium roqueforti mold powder

¼ teaspoon C101 or Meso II powdered mesophilic starter culture

¼ teaspoon calcium chloride diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

¼ teaspoon liquid rennet diluted in ¼ cup cool nonchlorinated water

4 teaspoons kosher salt (preferably Diamond Crystal brand) or fine flake sea salt

1.  In a nonreactive 6-quart stockpot, heat the milk and cream over low heat to 86°F; this should take about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.

2.  Sprinkle ⅛ teaspoon of the mold powder and the starter over the milk and let rehydrate for 5 minutes. Mix well using a whisk in an up-and-down motion. Cover and maintain 86°F, allowing the milk to ripen for 30 minutes. Add the calcium chloride and gently whisk in, then add the rennet in the same way. Cover and let sit, maintaining 86°F for 1½ hours, or until the curds give a clean break.

3.  Using a skimmer, slice the curds into ½-inch-thick slabs. Line a colander with damp cheesecloth and set it over a bowl about the same size as the colander. Transfer the curd slices to the colander; the curds should be sitting in the whey caught in the bowl. Cover the colander, maintain 86°F for 1½ hours. Then tie the corners of the cheesecloth together to form a draining sack and hang to let drain at room temperature for 30 minutes, or until the whey stops dripping.

4.  Set the sack on a cutting board, open the cheesecloth, and gently press down on the curds, forming them into a brick shape. Redress the curds in the same cheesecloth and place on a draining rack. Press them at 8 pounds for 8 hours or overnight at room temperature.

5.  Remove the curds from the cheesecloth and break them into approximately 1-inch pieces. Place the curds in a bowl, add the salt, and gently toss to combine.

6.  Line a 4½-inch-diameter round cheese mold with damp cheesecloth and set it on a draining rack. Layer half of the curds into the mold. Sprinkle the top with a pinch of P. roqueforti mold powder, then layer the remaining curds in the mold. Fold the tails of the cloth over the curds, set the follower in place, and let drain at room temperature for 4 days. Flip every 20 minutes for the first 2 hours, every 2 hours for the next 6 hours, and once a day for the next 4 days. Remove any accumulated whey each time you flip the cheese.

7.  After the 4 days of draining, remove the cheese from the mold and cloth and place it on a clean mat in a dry ripening box. Cover the box loosely with the lid and ripen the cheese at 50°F to 55°F and 85 to 90 percent humidity. High humidity is essential for making this cheese.

8.  Flip the cheese daily for 1 week, removing any whey that accumulates in the ripening box and wiping any moisture from the box. Wipe the rind daily with cheesecloth soaked in a simple brine solution (see Brine Chart) for the first week. When the cheese is dry on the surface, secure the lid of the ripening box tightly and continue to ripen at 50°F to 55°F and 90 percent humidity, flipping once or twice a week. After 2 weeks, the cheese should have developed a slightly moldy exterior. At 4 months, wrap the cheese in foil and store refrigerated for up to 2 more months.