Gâteau au fromage, sauce mandarine-chocolat

( Baked cheesecake with mandarin-chocolate sauce )

Cheesecakes have been around since the discovery of cheese, which itself dates back over 8000 years ago, and every region and country has adopted their own special techniques and preferences. The French version of cheesecake differs from many versions in that it is made with a small amount of meringue and is traditionally served with a chocolate sauce, curd or fruit coulis. In this recipe I have added some yoghurt to bring a subtle touch of sourness, which helps to offset some of the sweetness of the chocolate, and the mandarin works wonders at balancing the richness of the cheese. All in all, this is a sophisticated and delicate dessert that wouldn’t feel out of place served anywhere, from a quick snack for breakfast (yes, really!) to a petit four served at a fancy cocktail party.

Serves 8–10

200 g (7 oz) Pâte Sablée

460 g (1 lb) cream cheese or neufchâtel cheese

200 g (7 oz) Greek-style yoghurt

20 g (¾ oz) maize cornflour (cornstarch)

220 g (7¾ oz) caster (superfine) sugar

½ teaspoon fine salt

3 eggs

3 egg yolks

2 tablespoons strained mandarin juice

60 ml (2 fl oz) whipping cream (35% fat)

2 tablespoons full-cream milk

finely grated zest of 2 mandarins

2 egg whites

Mandarin-chocolate sauce

300 ml (10½ fl oz) strained mandarin juice

180 g (6¼ oz) dark chocolate (65% cocoa solids), chopped

180 g (6¼ oz) milk chocolate, chopped

2 tablespoons honey

finely grated zest of 1 mandarin

60 g (2¼ oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature

To decorate

dried citrus zest (optional) (see tips)

L Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Lightly grease a 25 cm (10 in) round cake tin and line the base and side with baking paper. Line a baking tray with baking paper.

L Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured work surface until 3–4 mm (¹/₈ in) thick, dusting with a little extra flour if necessary to stop the dough sticking. Using the cake tin as a template, cut out a circle of dough, then place on the lined tray and bake for 15 minutes, or until the pastry begins to turn golden brown. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Trim around the cold shortbread base with a sharp paring knife and then carefully drop it down onto the base of the prepared cake tin.

L Using an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese, yoghurt, cornflour, 110 g (3³/₄ oz) of the sugar and the salt on low speed until well combined. Scrape down the side of the bowl, then add the eggs, egg yolks and mandarin juice and beat until smooth. Scrape down the side of the bowl, then add the cream, milk and mandarin zest. Increase the speed to medium and beat until smooth and creamy.

L Transfer the cream cheese mixture to a large bowl. Wash the bowl of the electric mixer thoroughly to remove any traces of fat, then using the whisk attachment, whisk the egg whites and remaining 110 g (3³/₄ oz) of sugar on the highest speed until the meringue is thick and shiny. Reduce the speed to low and continue whisking for 1–2 minutes, then gently fold the meringue into the cream cheese mixture with a spatula. Take care when handling the egg whites at this point, or you will push the air out of them and end up with a dense cheesecake — simply use a circular folding motion until combined.

L Reduce the oven temperature to 100°C (210°F). Pour the filling into the tin, on top of the pastry base, and bake for 60–80 minutes, or until the cake is firm and stops wobbling. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before removing from the tin. To do this, cover the top of the cheesecake with a piece of baking paper, then place a flat tray on top. Flip everything over, remove the tin, then flip the cheesecake onto a serving plate.

L Meanwhile, to make the mandarin-chocolate sauce, put the mandarin juice in a small saucepan and bring to the boil over high heat. Put the dark and milk chocolates, honey and mandarin zest in a heatproof bowl, then, whisking continuously, gradually pour the hot juice into the bowl (add the liquid in two or three batches, so the chocolate doesn’t overheat). Whisk until smooth, then set aside until cooled to about 40°C (105°F), or until tepid to the touch. Add the butter, then use a stick blender to process until smooth and well combined.

L Just before serving, gently heat the sauce in a bain-marie until warm (see tips), or alternatively heat it in a microwave for a few seconds, but take care that it doesn’t reach anywhere near boiling point or the chocolate will burn. To serve, drizzle the mandarin- chocolate sauce over the cheesecake and sprinkle with some dried citrus zest, if using.

tips

Cheesecakes should be served at room temperature, as this allows the fat to melt quicker in the mouth, dramatically improving both the texture and flavour.

To make dried zest for decoration, use a microplane or a grater to finely grate the zest of 4 mandarins, oranges, lemons or limes. Bring 500 ml (17 fl oz) water and 1 teaspoon salt to the boil in a small saucepan over high heat, then add the grated zest. Blanch for 3–4 minutes, then strain through a fine sieve and pat dry with paper towel. Spread onto a tray lined with baking paper and bake in a 80°C (175°F) oven for 1 hour, or until completely dry. Cool, then store in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

While most of my comments about the recipes in this book seem to indicate that flavour and taste are my most pressing concerns (probably because they are), remember that a lot of ingredients used in baking are high in saturated fat. I don’t mean to warn you off saturated fats; rather, I want to point out that biscuits and cakes are meant not to feed you, but simply to liven your day a little, eaten as a small treat after a meal or with a cup of tea or coffee for afternoon tea. In my opinion, it is far better to reduce your portion size instead of compromising on the taste of your cakes by using substandard ingredients such as margarine or low-fat dairy products.