Spaghetti alla Chitarra

with Classic Meat Sauce

• • • Makes 8 or more servings • • •

One of my most prized kitchen possessions is the chitarra my mother gave me a few years back when my book The Glorious Pasta of Italy was published. This rectangular wooden instrument, called a “guitar,” is strung with thin wires that cut sheets of pasta into long, square-cut noodles, a specialty of Abruzzo. Chitarra noodles, cut thicker than other types of fresh pasta, pair especially well with hearty sauces, like meat ragù. You can find a traditional chitarra at some kitchenware stores and online (see Sources). Some pasta machines also have roller attachments that cut pasta sheets into square-cut noodles. Otherwise, a regular spaghetti attachment will do fine.

2 quarts Classic Meat Suace (page 122), thawed if frozen

2 pounds (907 g) Homemade Pasta dough, cut into spaghetti alla chitarra according to the instructions on page 139 (may be made ahead and dried or frozen)

Kosher or sea salt

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano, for serving

Dried peperoncini (page 148), crushed, or crushed red chile pepper, for serving

1 • In a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the sauce to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and cover to keep warm.

2 • Have the noodles ready to cook. If you have made them ahead of time and frozen them, leave them in the freezer until it’s time to cook them. Thawing fresh pasta will make it clump together, with disastrous results.

3 • Bring a large (10- to 12-quart) stockpot of water to a rolling boil over high heat, and salt it generously. Carefully drop the pasta nests into the boiling water and stir to separate the strands. Cover the pot for about a minute to bring the water back to a boil. Uncover and cook the spaghetti until al dente, 2 to 5 minutes—homemade pasta cooks quickly, and fresh or frozen pasta will be done sooner than dried pasta. Taste to be sure.

4 • Drain the pasta in a colander, reserving about 1 cup of the pasta water. Return the spaghetti to the pot and ladle a generous amount of sauce over it. Gently toss the noodles with the sauce until thoroughly coated. Add a little of the cooking water if necessary to loosen the sauce. Transfer the dressed pasta to a warmed serving bowl or individual bowls and spoon more sauce on top. Sprinkle a little grated cheese on top. Serve, along with additional cheese and the peperoncini.