Torrone

• • • Makes about 2 pounds (907 g) • • •

What a sticky mess this nut-studded nougat is to make! I tell you this so that you can be ready to embrace the process, for it is worth it. Egg whites are whipped into clouds, then beaten with hot sugar into taffy-like candy. The air is perfumed with nuts and citrus. If you are looking to conjure magic over the holidays, this is the project.

Edible wafer paper (optional; see Sources)

2 tablespoons (28 g) butter, for the pan

1½ cups (227 g) almonds, blanched, skinned, and toasted (see Cook’s Note)

1 cup hazelnuts (140 g), toasted and skinned (see Cook’s Note)

½ cup pistachios (70 g), shelled, blanched, skinned, and toasted (see Cook’s Note)

2 large egg whites, at room temperature

Pinch of fine sea salt

2 cups (400 g) plus 1 tablespoon sugar

⅔ cup (227 g) mild honey

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

2 tablespoons candied orange peel, cut into small dice

Equipment

Instant-read or candy thermometer

1 • If using edible wafer paper, line the bottom of an 8-inch square baking pan with it, cutting the paper if necessary to fit. Generously butter the sides of the pan. Cut out another piece of wafer the same size and set it aside for topping the nougat. If not using the wafer paper, line the pan with parchment paper so that there is an overhang on two sides. Generously butter the parchment.

2 • Combine the nuts in a bowl and toss to mix. Set aside.

3 • Place the egg whites in the stainless steel bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and add the pinch of salt. Set aside.

4 • Combine 2 cups of the sugar and the honey in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan with high sides. Set the pot over medium heat and stir just to incorporate the sugar into the honey. Cook, stirring once or twice, until the sugar is completely dissolved and the mixture begins to bubble and foam, about 10 minutes. Continue to cook the mixture until it reaches a temperature of 315°F on a candy thermometer, about 10 minutes more. Remove the pot from the heat and stir to cool slightly.

5 • Meanwhile, once the honey-sugar mixture begins to foam, start beating the egg whites with the salt. When the whites are foamy, add the remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. Beat on high speed until the whites are glossy and form stiff peaks.

6 • With the mixer on high speed, dribble in the hot honey-sugar mixture down the side of the bowl, a little at a time. The whites will turn a couple of shades darker because of the honey and grow in volume. Then add the vanilla and candied orange peel. The mixer will slow as the nougat thickens and the mixing bowl will be hot to the touch. Continue to beat at high speed for about 5 minutes—until you can put your hand against the bowl and leave it there.

7 • Add the nuts. Either fold them in with a sturdy wooden spoon or silicone spatula, or switch to the paddle attachment of the mixer to incorporate them. Make sure you scrape the sticky nougat off the whisk and return it to the bowl.

8 • Scoop out the torrone and spread it into the prepared pan. Very lightly moisten your hands with water and press the nougat into the corners of the pan, evening out the top. If using wafer paper, press the second sheet on top. Let the torrone cool completely.

9 • Remove the torrone from the pan and, if necessary, peel off the layer of parchment (do not peel off the edible wafer paper). With a sharp knife, slice the torrone into four 2- by 8-inch bars or eight 2- by 4-inch bars. Wrap the bars in waxed paper or parchment paper and store them in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks. To serve, cut the bars crosswise into ¾-inch-thick slices or bite-size pieces.

Variation  • Traditional torrone does not call for dried fruit, such as cherries or cranberries. But they add a pretty holiday touch to the candy when you cut into it, so I sometimes add ¼ to ½ cup (35 to 70 g) along with the nuts.

Cook’s Notes

To prep the almonds, preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the raw almonds in a heat-proof bowl and pour boiling water over them. Let sit for 1 to 2 minutes to loosen the skins. Drain and rinse, then pop the almonds out of their skins. Spread them on a baking sheet and let dry for 30 minutes. Bake until lightly golden and fragrant, about 7 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

To prep the hazelnuts, preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the skins have begun to crackle, about 10 minutes. Wrap the hot hazelnuts in a clean kitchen towel and let stand for 1 minute. Roll the nuts back and forth in the towel to rub off the skins. Not all the skins will come off; this is fine. Let cool to room temperature.

To prep the pistachios, place the nuts in a heatproof bowl and pour boiling water over them. Let sit for 2 minutes, and then drain. You can either slip the skins off with your fingers or roll them in a clean kitchen towel, as you would with hazelnuts. I find the towel method to be less successful with stubborn pistachio skins, so I use my fingers. Let cool completely.