The Southwest
The big drawcard of this corner of the country is the beach. Set on a long stretch of sand, Pärnu attracts legions of holidaymakers during the summer. Young partygoers from Tallinn and Tartu head to the sands and nightclubs, just as busloads of elderly out-of-towners arrive seeking spa treatments and mud cures.
East of Pärnu stretches Soomaa National Park, a biodiverse region of meandering meadows and swamps. Viljandi lies just beyond Soomaa; it’s a laid-back regional centre and a focus for things folk, especially music.
Viljandi
POP 17,407
One of Estonia’s most charming towns, Viljandi overlooks a picturesque valley with a tranquil lake at its centre. The German Livonian Order, aka the Brothers of the Sword, founded a castle here in the 13th century. The town that grew around it later joined the Hanseatic League, but was the contested property of Swedes, Poles and Russians over the following centuries. It’s now a relaxed kind of place, perfect for time-travelling rambles, with some evocative castle ruins, historic buildings and abundant greenery.
If you visit in late July, make sure your accommodation is sorted – the four-day Viljandi Folk Music Festival is the biggest annual music festival in Estonia, and many places are booked out long in advance.
1Sights
oViljandi Teutonic Order CastleCASTLE
(map Google map; Viljandi ordulinnus; Lossimäed) 
F
Set within a lush park on the natural defensive prominence of Lossimäed, the scant-yet-evocative remains of Viljandi’s powerful castle form a picturesque set of ruins with sweeping views over the valley and lake below. Built in 1224 by the German Knights of the Sword on a series of three small hills divided by ravines, it replaced an Estonian hill fort that had stood here since the 9th century. It finally fell into disrepair after the 17th-century Polish-Swedish wars. Only perilously decayed sections of wall and crumbling foundations remain but you get a sense of the castle’s scale, and there are interesting display panels describing its layout. One of the approaches to the fortress is spanned by an elegant 50m suspension footbridge, which was built in 1879 for another set of castle ruins at Tarvastu and was only moved to this site in 1931.
A small cemetery to the rear of the castle park is the final resting place of German soldiers killed here during WWII.
St John’s Lutheran ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Jaani Kirik; Pikk 6; 
h10am-3pm Mon, Wed & Sun, noon-5pm Tue, 1-5pm Thu)
This dignified, compellingly picturesque 17th-century church, with its pale-grey walls and stone altar, has been restored since its Soviet incarnation as a furniture warehouse. It was originally part of a 15th-century Franciscan abbey (hence the stained-glass image of the saint to the right of the altar) and if you look closely you can spot the remains of pre-Reformation frescoes over the arch leading from the porch into the church proper.
Kondas CentreGALLERY
(map Google map; Kondase Keskus; www.kondas.ee; Pikk 8; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-5pm Wed-Sat Jan-Mar, Wed-Sun Apr & Sep-Dec, 11am-6pm daily May-Aug)
Housing vibrantly colourful works by local painter Paul Kondas (1900–85) and other self-taught artists working outside the mainstream, this is Estonia’s only gallery dedicated to naïve and outsider art. It’s not hard to find – in a marvellously oblique reference to the artist’s 1965 work Strawberry Eaters, the stalks of all the giant strawberries scattered around town point here. The handsome, red-brick building is the former vicarage of adjacent St John’s.
Viljandi MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; 
%433 3316; www.muuseum.viljandimaa.ee; Laidoneri plats 10; adult/reduced €4/2; h11am-6pm May-Aug, 10am-5pm Tue-Sat Sep-Apr)
Occupying two floors of a late-18th-century pharmacy on the old market square, this modest museum has displays tracing Viljandi’s history from the Stone Age to the mid-20th century. There are folk costumes, stuffed animals, old photos of the city, Viking-era jewellery and a mock-up of what the original castle probably looked like. English translations are limited.
St Paul’s Lutheran ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Pauluse kirik; Kiriku 5; h10am-3pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sun)
Built in 1866 to accommodate Viljandi’s growing Lutheran congregation, this visually arresting, Tudor-Gothic-style church has a wooden pulpit and gallery, and a large crucifixion scene above its altar.
Viljandi järvLAKE
Accessed by a steep path leading down from Pikk street, the lake is a popular place for a swim on warm summer days. All the usual hallmarks of the Estonian beach are here (volleyball court, cafes, boat rental) and there’s a swimming platform just offshore. Come Midsummer’s Eve, it’s the site of the main celebrations.
zFestivals & Events
Hanseatic DaysCULTURAL
(http://hansa.viljandi.ee; hJun)
Over a long weekend in early June, Viljandi goes retro, celebrating its past as an important Hanseatic city with food and craft markets, midnight concerts, processions and other public merriment.
Viljandi Early Music FestivalMUSIC
(Viljandi vanamuusika festival; www.vivamu.ee; hJul)
Archaic instruments and musical forms are showcased in the town’s churches and concert halls over a week in mid-July.
oViljandi Folk Music FestivalMUSIC
(Viljandi pärimusimuusika festival; www.viljandifolk.ee; festival pass from €65; hJul)
Easily the biggest event on Viljandi’s calendar, this hugely popular, four-day music festival is renowned for its friendly, relaxed vibe and impressive international line-up. Estonia’s largest music festival, and one of the major folk events on the European calendar, it sees Viljandi’s population double in size around the last weekend of July, with over 20,000 attendees at over 100 concerts.
4Sleeping
Hostel IngeriGUESTHOUSE€€
(map Google map; %5599 7115; www.hostelingeri.ee; Pikk 2c; s/d from €30/45; 
p
W)
On one of Viljandi’s nicest streets, right among its historical and cultural highlights, this six-room guesthouse offers seriously good value with its bright, comfortable doubles, all with TVs and bathrooms. Plant life and a kitchen for guest use make it a good home-from-home, while the parkside location couldn’t be better.
Grand Hotel ViljandiHOTEL€€
(map Google map; %435 5800; www.ghv.ee; Tartu 11; s/d €79/99; pW)
In the centre of Viljandi’s quiet old town, this moderately chi-chi hotel has 50 art deco–styled rooms with dark-wood trim, satiny chairs, large windows and wildly patterned carpets. There’s a pleasant summertime cafe in front, as well as the smart à la carte Restaurant Eve (mains €16 to €18), named for the first upscale hotel in this building, opened in 1938.
EndlaGUESTHOUSE€€
(map Google map; Reinup Travel Ltd; %5345 7440; www.reinup.ee; Endla 9; s/d €40/50; p
iW)
5Eating & Drinking
Dining options in Viljandi are very limited for a town of its size and status, but there are some appealing pubs.
Suur VendPUB FOOD€
(map Google map; %433 3644; www.suurvend.ee; Turu 4; mains €7-9; hkitchen 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun, bar longer hours; W)
Friendly service, big portions, a pool table and upbeat options from the jukebox create a cheerful mood at ‘Big Brother’, a cosy pub with an undeservedly sinister name. There’s an outdoor deck, lots of dark wood inside and a reasonably priced menu with plenty of beer-friendly food. Later on, live music and karaoke keep the bonhomie topped up.
Tegelaste TubaPUB FOOD€
(map Google map; %433 3944; www.facebook.com/TegelasteTuba; Pikk 2b; mains €7-9; h11am-11pm Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, to 11.45pm Fri & Sat; W
v
c)
The terrace overlooking the park is one of this tavern’s drawcards; another is the comfy interior on cold, rainy days. Estonian handicrafts enliven the red-brick walls, and a diverse crowd enjoys the wide-ranging menu of soups, salads and Russian and Estonian comfort food (dumplings and lots of pork and chicken). Note it accepts only cash.
FellinCAFE€€
(map Google map; %435 9795; www.kohvikfellin.ee; Kauba 2; mains €12-14; hnoon-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat, to 7pm Sun; pW)
‘Local food and live music’ is the mantra at this smart cafe-bar near the tourist office, which may be the best of Viljandi’s dining options. The menu ranges from light snacks, salads and soups to more substantial meals (duck breast, smoked pork, steamed fish), or you can just call in for a glass of wine.
3Entertainment
Traditional Music CentreLIVE MUSIC
(map Google map; Pärimusmuusika ait; %434 2050; www.folk.ee; Tasuja pst 6; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat, to 7pm Sun; W)
Viljandi’s reputation as Estonia’s folk-music capital, resting on its annual festival, was cemented with the opening of this modern recital and cultural centre in an old brick storehouse in 2008. It’s a place for study and rehearsal, has two state-of-the-art concert halls and houses an upmarket cafe (%434 2066; www.aidakohvik.ee; mains €13-14; h11am-7pm Sun & Mon, to 9pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; W) and record store. Call in to find out what’s on.
8Information
The super-helpful Tourist Information Centre (%433 0442; www.visitestonia.com; Vabaduse plats 6; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 10am-3pm Sat & Sun mid-May–mid-Sep; W) offers local maps and information on Viljandi and surrounding areas (including Soomaa National Park) in multiple languages.
8Getting There & Around
BICYCLE
Joosepi Jalgrattapood (Joseph’s Bicycle Shop; %434 5757; www.jalgrattad.eu; Kaalu 9; per hour/day €5/12; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat) offers bike hire and service.
BUS
The bus station (bussijaam; www.bussireisid.ee; Ilmarise 1; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) is 750m north of the tourist office. Serviced by multiples operators, major destinations include the following:
Kuressaare €13 to €15, 4½ hours, two daily
Pärnu €6 to €7, 1½ hours, eight daily
Tallinn €9.50 to €11, 2½ hours, up to 13 daily
Tartu €6 to €7, 1¼ hours, at least hourly
Valga €4 to €7, 1½ hours, four daily
TRAIN
The train station (raudteejaam; www.elron.ee; Vaksali 44) is 1.5km southwest of the tourist office. Five trains run daily to and from Tallinn (€9.10 to €11, one to 2¼ hours).
Soomaa National Park
Embracing Estonia’s largest area of swamps, meadows and waterside forests, 390-sq-km Soomaa (‘bogland’) is well named. It’s primarily made up of four bogs – Valgeraba, Öördi, Kikepera and Kuresoo, the peat layer of which measures 7m in places. These ancient wetlands are split by tributaries of the Pärnu River. In March and April, spring flooding creates a ‘fifth season’ in which waters can rise to 5m, and most Soomaans get around by boat.
A good way to explore the national park and its numerous meandering waterways is by canoe or by haabja, a traditional Finno-Ugric single-tree boat, carved from aspen trunks and used for centuries for fishing, hunting, hauling hay and transportation.
THE FOREST BROTHERS
Today the sleepy marshes and quiet woodlands of Estonia shelter mainly wildlife, but between 1944 and 1956 wild places often now set aside as national parks and nature reserves accommodated the national-liberation movement known as the Metsavennad (or Metsavendlus; Forest Brothers). The Brothers, fierce resisters of the Soviet occupation, were compelled to live an underground existence in the woods, where some remained for years. They knew their terrain well, exploiting it to survive and continue their fight to restore the republic.
The Soviets claimed Estonia in the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact of 1939 and, after the Germans retreated from a difficult three-year occupation, secured this claim by advancing on Tallinn in 1944. The early resistance, believing this latest occupation would not be recognised in accordance with the British–US Atlantic treaty of 1941 (which states that sovereignty and self-governance should be restored when forcibly removed), rallied support for what some thought would be a new war. As international assistance never arrived, the independence cause remained Estonia’s own.
Resistance action began with isolated attacks on Red Army units that claimed the lives of around 3000 soldiers. Tactical expertise and secure intelligence networks resulted in damaging offensives on Soviet targets. At the height of the resistance there were more than 30,000 Forest Brothers and their supporters, including women, the elderly, young people and a network of ‘Urban Brothers’. The impact of resistance activity shows in contemporary Soviet records detailing incidents of sabotage on infrastructure such as railways and roads, effective hindrance to initial attempts to make Estonia into a new Soviet state.
In the years that followed, the Metsavennad suffered high casualties, with varied and increasing opposition. The NKVD (Soviet secret police) provided incentives for some locals to infiltrate the resistance. The Soviets coordinated mass deportations of those suspected to be sympathetic to the resistance cause, and some Metsavennad supporters were coerced into acting against the resistance. By 1947 around 15,000 resistance fighters had been arrested or killed. The greatest blow to the Metsavennad came in 1949 with the deportation of 20,000 people – mainly women, children and the elderly – many of whom had provided support and cover for resistance activities.
The movement continued for some years, despite the infinitely greater strength of the Soviet state and the detrimental effect of deportations and collectivisation on sympathetic communities. Some Forest Brothers who were not killed or imprisoned escaped to Scandinavia and Canada.
There are many heroes of the Metsavennad, most of whom came to a violent end. Kalev Arro and Ants Kaljurand (hirmus, or ‘Ants the Terrible’ to the Soviets) were famous for their deft disguises and the humour with which they persistently eluded the Soviets. It was only in 1980 that the final active Forest Brother, Oskar Lillenurm, was found – shot dead in Lääne county.
Much work has been done to compile a history of the movement by recording accounts of local witnesses. Surviving members are regarded as national heroes and are awarded some of the country’s highest honours. For more details on the resistance, a good reference is former Estonian prime minister (and historian) Mart Laar’s War in the Woods: Estonia’s Struggle for Survival, 1944–1956 (1992).
2Activities & Tours
The 1.8km Beaver Trail starts at the Soomaa National Park Visitor Centre and leads past beavers’ dams. Another good, easy path is the Riisa Nature Trail, a 4.8km loop on a well-maintained boardwalk through the Riisa bog (1.2km of which is wheelchair accessible). Before hitting the paths, especially in winter, it’s best to let the centre know what you plan to do, either by email or in person.
Soomaa.comOUTDOORS
(%506 1896; www.soomaa.com)
4Sleeping
There are 10 designated sites for free, basic camping in the park, including one near the visitor centre. Each has a longdrop toilet, a fire ring and (usually) firewood, but no running water.
8Information
Soomaa National Park Visitor Centre (Soomaa Looduskeskus; %435 7164; www.keskkonnaamet.ee; Kõrtsi-Tõramaa; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun mid-May–Aug, 10am-4pm Mon-Fri rest of year) Information is available from this welcoming, highly professional outfit in Kõrtsi-Tõramaa.
8Getting There & Away
There’s a daily bus from Pärnu to Riisa (€2.20, one hour), which is 5km from the visitor centre.
By car, it’s easiest to access the park from the Pärnu (western) side, heading through Tori and Jõesuu. Viljandi’s actually closer, but the 23km road from the village of Kõpu to the visitor centre is largely unsealed.
Pärnu
POP 39,728
Local families, hormone-sozzled youths and German, Swedish and Finnish holidaymakers join together in a collective prayer for sunny weather while strolling the beaches, sprawling parks and picturesque historic centre of Pärnu (pair-nu), Estonia’s premier seaside resort. In these parts, its name is synonymous with fun in the sun; one hyperbolic local described it to us as ‘Estonia’s Miami’, but it’s usually called by its slightly more prosaic moniker, the nation’s ‘summer capital’.
In truth, most of Pärnu is quite docile, with strollable historic streets and expansive parks dotted with turn-of-the-20th-century villas reflecting the town’s more fashionable past. Museums, churches, traditional architecture, convivial bars and a decent dining scene all justify a visit. Older visitors from Finland and the former Soviet Union still come here, seeking rest, rejuvenation and Pärnu’s vaunted mud treatments.
History
There was a trading settlement at Pärnu before the German crusaders arrived, but the place entered recorded history in 1234 when the Pärnu River was fixed as the border between the territories of the Ösel-Wiek bishop (west and north) and the Livonian knights (east and south). The town, joined by rivers to Viljandi, Tartu and Lake Peipsi, became the Hanseatic port of Pernau in the 14th century (sinking water levels have since cut this link).
Pernau/Pärnu had a population of German merchants from Lübeck till at least the 18th century. It withstood wars, fires, plagues, and switches between German, Polish, Swedish and Russian rule, and prospered in the 17th century under the Swedes, until trade was devastated by Europe-wide blockades during the Napoleonic wars.
From 1838 it gradually became a popular resort, with mud baths as well as the beach proving a draw. Only the resort area was spared severe damage in 1944 as the Soviets drove out the Nazis, but many parts of Old Town have since been restored.
1Sights
Pärnu straddles both sides of the Pärnu River at the point where it empties into Pärnu Bay. The south bank contains the major attractions, including Old Town and the beach. The main thoroughfare of the historic centre is Rüütli, lined with splendid buildings dating back to the 17th century.
oPärnu BeachBEACH
Pärnu’s long, broad, sandy beach – sprinkled with volleyball courts, pop-up bars, cafes and changing cubicles – is the city’s main draw in summer. A curving path stretches along the sand, lined with fountains, park benches and an excellent playground. Early-20th-century buildings are strung along Ranna pst, the avenue that runs parallel to the beach. Across the road, the formal gardens of Rannapark are ideal for a summertime picnic.
oMuseum of New ArtGALLERY
(map Google map; Uue kunstimuuseum; %443 0772; www.mona.ee; Esplanaadi 10; adult/child €4/2; h9am-9pm Jun-Aug, to 7pm Sep-May; p)
Pärnu’s former Communist Party headquarters now houses one of Estonia’s edgiest cultural spaces, established in 1992 as the country’s first museum of contemporary art. Pushing the cultural envelope, it stages an international nude art exhibition every summer, and exhibits over 600 works of contemporary art. Every June it hosts the Pärnu Film Festival, a celebration of documentary work founded by filmmaker Mark Soosaar.
Pärnu MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %443 3231; www.parnumuuseum.ee; Aida 3; adult/student €4/2; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun)
This museum covers 11,000 years of the Pärnu region’s history, from prehistoric relics, right up to a reconstruction of a Soviet-era apartment. Pride of place goes to the 8000-year-old ‘Stone-Age Madonna’, the oldest sculpture yet found in the Baltics or Scandinavia. Temporary exhibitions are regularly staged, doubling the price of full-access tickets (if you choose to see them).
St Elizabeth’s Lutheran ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Eliisabeti kirik; %443 1381; www.eliisabet.ee; Nikolai 22; hnoon-6pm Tue-Sat, 9am-noon Sun Jun-Aug)
Consecrated in 1750, this dignified, rust-coloured Lutheran church was named for Russian Empress Yelizaveta Petrovna, who gifted Pärnu’s Lutherans 8000 roubles for its construction. Also giving props to St John the Baptist’s mum, its simple interior has low dangling chandeliers, a Gothic-style carved wooden pulpit and a wonderful altarpiece of the Resurrection from Rotterdam (1854).
St Catherine’s Orthodox ChurchCHURCH
(Ekatarina Kirik; Vee 8)
Built in 1768, this superb baroque church is named after Russian empress Catherine the Great, while also name-checking the early Christian martyr. If it’s open, the gilded icons and interior fittings are suitably impressive.
Tallinn GateGATE
(map Google map; Tallinna Värav; Vana-Tallinna 1)
The outline of the 17th-century, star-shaped Swedish ramparts that once surrounded old Pärnu can still be discerned on maps. The one remaining section and its moat, now Vallikäär Park, end at the Tallinn Gate, which once defended the main road to the river-ferry crossing and Tallinn road. There’s a scale model of how the town would have looked when the ramparts were intact, just before the gate.
Town HallHISTORIC BUILDING
(map Google map; Pärnu Raekoda; Nikolai 3)
This 1797 neoclassical building now houses the tourist office and a small gallery space. Also note the half-timbered ‘Citizen’s Residence’, dating from 1740, diagonally opposite across Nikolai.
2Activities
Tervise ParadiisWATER PARK
(map Google map; %445 1666; www.terviseparadiis.ee; Side 14; adult/child 3hr €18/13, 1 day €21/17; h10am-10pm Jun-Aug, from 11am Sep-May; c)
At the far end of the beach, Estonia’s largest water park beckons with pools, slides, tubes and other slippery fun. It’s a big family-focused draw, especially when bad weather ruins beach plans. The large resort also offers saunas, spa treatments, fitness facilities and classes, ten-pin bowling and a selection of cafes and restaurants.
Hedon SpaSPA
(map Google map; %449 9011; www.hedonspa.com; Ranna pst 1; treatments from €30; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)
Built in 1927 to house Pärnu’s famous mud baths, this handsome neoclassical building has recently been fully restored and opened as a spa-hotel. All manner of pampering treatments are offered, only some of which involve mud (a 50-minute massage starts at €54). There are two restaurants and a cafe on-site, and soothingly decorated modern rooms (doubles from €93).
zFestivals & Events
Pärnu hosts several major cultural events throughout the warmer months, while the tourist office distributes Pärnu This Week, listing weekly happenings around town and also accessible at www.visitparnu.com.
Grillfest Good Food FestivalFOOD & DRINK
(Hea Toidu Festival; www.grillfest.ee; Vallikäär; hJun)
Over the second weekend in June, more than 50,000 people wend their way around the 350 food vendors in Vallikäär Park, enjoying the best of Estonian and world cuisine. Despite the name, it’s not all about barbecued meat: there’s a fishing competition, Estonian Food Fair, and plenty of auxiliary attractions.
Pärnu Hanseatic DaysCULTURAL
(Pärnu Hansapäevad; http://hansa.parnu.ee; Vallikäär; hlate Jun)
Pärnu goes medieval for a weekend in late June, with a knightly tournament, children’s village, market stalls, performances and a poultry and livestock fair. Action centres largely on Vallikäär Park.
Pärnu Film FestivalFILM
(Pärnu Filmifestival; www.chaplin.ee; hJun-Jul)
This increasingly prestigious international festival of documentary and science film has been a fixture of Pärnu’s cultural calendar since 1987. It’s held at the Museum of New Art and other venues in town in late June, then heads on the road for two weeks in early July.
4Sleeping
EmbraceGUESTHOUSE€€
(map Google map; %5887 3404; www.embrace.ee; Pardi 30; d from €60, apt for 4 from €110; p
aW)
Snuggle up in an old wooden house in a quiet suburban street, close to the beach and water park (if a decent walk from central Pärnu). Rooms strike a nice balance between antique and contemporary, and there’s a set of four modern self-contained apartments in a neighbouring annex.
Inge VillaGUESTHOUSE€€
(map Google map; %443 8510; Kaarli 20; s/d/ste €56/70/82; paW)
Describing itself as a ‘Swedish-Estonian villa hotel’, this lovely, low-key pre-WWII villa sits invitingly on a quiet, tree-lined street near the beach. Its 11 rooms are simply decorated in muted tones with Nordic minimalism to the fore. The garden, lounge and sauna seal the deal.
Villa JohannaB&B€€
(map Google map; %443 8370; www.villa-johanna.ee; Suvituse 6; s/d/ste with balcony €50/80/100; pW)
Decorated with hanging flowerpots and planter boxes, this pretty old-fashioned wooden house offers comfy pine-lined rooms on a quiet street near the beach and extensive parkland. If you’re feeling sociable there’s an inviting, fire-lit common room and a sauna that fits four at a squeeze. Not much English is spoken.
Hotell LegendHOTEL€€
(map Google map; %442 5606; www.legend.ee; Lehe 3; s/d/ste from €50/70/90; pW
#)
The Tiffany-style lamps, model ships and wooden panelling lend an old-world feel to the lobby, which is quite a contrast to the boxy exterior. Yet inviting, parquet-floored rooms, charming staff and proximity to the beach more than compensate, making this a good midrange option.
Konse Motel & CampingCAMPGROUND€€
(map Google map; %5343 5092; www.konse.ee; Suur-Jõe 44a; site €17, d with/without bathroom from €70/60; piW)
About 1km east of central Pärnu, riverside Konse offers camping and a variety of motel rooms with kitchen access. It’s not an especially charming spot, but there’s a sauna (€15 per hour), and the chance to rent bikes (per day €10) and rowboats (per hour €10). Camping seems less thrifty when you throw in the €5 charge for a shower.
oVilla AmmendeHOTEL€€€
(map Google map; %447 3888; www.ammende.ee; Mere pst 7; s/d/ste €154/216/436; paW)
Built in 1905, the Villa Ammende is an art nouveau masterpiece, and now one of Pärnu’s best hotels. Original stylistic touches such as colourful tiles and wrought iron remain on its exterior, while the interior delights with stencilled paintings and carved wood features. Operating as a private home and casino at different times, it was restored in the 1990s as a hotel.
Frost HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(map Google map; %5303 0424; www.frosthotel.ee; Kuninga 11; d/ste from €140/210; pW)
Little restraint was shown restoring and refurbishing this 1705 house in central Pärnu. An eye-catching profusion of details includes original wooden fittings, chandeliers, metallic bathroom tiles, fur throws, cow-hide poufs and more scatter cushions than any bed could need. It’s undeniably luxe, though, with deep, delightful beds, winter fires crackling in the lobby and a restaurant with its own bakery.
Tervise ParadiisRESORT€€€
(map Google map; %445 1600; www.terviseparadiis.ee; Side 14; s/d/ste from €98/119/172; paW
s)
Big (120-odd rooms) and busy in summer, this hotel attached to the Tervise Paradiis water park has slick rooms, all with balconies and most with beach views. Quite apart from the water park, it’s a great place for families, with a bowling alley, kids’ playroom, a spa, a fitness club, restaurants and a bar. Swedes and Finns love it in summer, so book ahead.
5Eating
SteffaniPIZZA€
(map Google map; %443 1170; www.steffani.ee; Nikolai 24; mains €8-10; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; c)
Steffani is a top choice for thin-crust and pan pizzas, particularly in summer when you can dine alfresco on the big, flower-filled terrace. The menu also stretches to pasta and, oddly, burritos. During summer it also operates out of a beach branch (Steffani Suve Pizzarestoran; Ranna pst 1; h11am-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat May-Sep; W).
Pärnu MarketMARKET€
(map Google map; Pärnu Turg; %442 6482; www.parnuturg.ee; Suur-Sepa 18; houtdoor market & shops 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, meat & fish Tue-Fri 8am-6pm, to 4pm Sat-Mon, food street 8am-11pm Mon-Fri; v)
Pärnu’s market is a mash-up of old and new: the 1953-built covered market was refurbished in 2016 and now boasts food outlets and a supermarket. Meanwhile, the traditional business of selling food and clothing continues, in both indoor and outdoor stalls.
SupelsaksadCAFE€€
(map Google map; %442 2448; www.supelsaksad.ee; Nikolai 32; mains €15-17; h11.30am-9pm Tue-Thu, 11.30am-11pm Fri, 9am-11pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; W)
Looking like it was designed by Barbara Cartland on acid (bright pink and a riot of stripes and prints), this fabulous cafe serves an appealing mix of salads, pastas and meaty mains. If you eat all your greens, make a beeline for the bountiful cake display.
PiparmüntMODERN EUROPEAN€€
(map Google map; %442 5736; www.kurgovilla.ee; Papli 13; mains €14-16; hnoon-9pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; pW)
Despite its low-key feel and tucked-away location (it’s attached to a small hotel on a side street near the beach), ‘Peppermint’ is definitely one of Pärnu’s better restaurants. The menu changes constantly, but you can expect dishes such as grilled duck breast on pearl barley with bacon, peas and crème de cassis sauce.
MahedikCAFE€€
(map Google map; %442 5393; www.mahedik.ee; Pühavaimu 20; breakfast €5-7, mains €14-15; h10am-7pm Sun, 9am-9pm Mon-Thu, 9am-midnight Fri, 10am-midnight Sat; Wv)
The name roughly translates as ‘organic-ish’, and wholesome, largely seasonal food is the focus of this cosy all-day cafe. There are cooked breakfasts such as omelettes with cottage cheese and summer greens, and light mains such as raw salmon slightly marinated in local gin with potato-olive salad and mustard-yoghurt sauce. Out back is a shop selling organic and natural products.
Lime LoungeINTERNATIONAL€€
(map Google map; %449 2190; www.limelounge.ee; Hommiku 17; mains €15-17; hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W)
More adventurous than many places in Pärnu’s Old Town, Lime Lounge offers skilfully executed Southeast Asian cooking (the tom kha gai is creamy and fragrant, and the seabass with rice-noodle salad gets Vietnamese flavours right) alongside safer European fare. Locals treat it as a cafe-bar as much as a restaurant, lingering over well-chosen wine or cheesecake and coffee.
Trahter PostipoissRUSSIAN€€
(map Google map; %446 4864; www.trahterpostipoiss.ee; Vee 12; mains €13-16; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
Housed in an 1834 postal building, this rustic tavern has excellent Russian cuisine (ranging from simple to sophisticated), a convivial crowd and imperial portraits watching over the proceedings. The spacious courtyard opens during summer and there’s live music on weekends.
RaimondEUROPEAN€€€
(map Google map; %5556 2686; www.hedonspa.com; Ranna pst 1; mains €23; h6-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; Wv)
Named for Estonian composer Raimond Valgre, this is the Hedon Spa & Hotel’s night-time fine-diner. At the rear of the complex, opening onto the beach, it offers à la carte choices such as a ‘famous’ beef tartare incorporating Baltic herring and Estonian pike with tiger prawns, or degustation menus of four and six courses (€49 and €69 respectively). There’s also an entire menu for vegans.
6Drinking & Nightlife
AlibiBAR
(map Google map; %5349 8313; Ringi 1; h5pm-2am Wed & Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W)
A very welcoming little bar in a red-brick building in the old centre, Alibi has a great range of beers and frequent events, including comedy and live music.
Puhvet APTEKBAR
(map Google map; www.aptek.ee; Rüütli 40; h10pm-2am Wed & Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; W)
Veerev ÕluPUB
(map Google map; %442 9848; Uus 3a; h11am-1am Mon-Sat, from 1pm Sun)
Named after the Rolling Stones, the ‘Rolling Beer’ wins the award for the friendliest and cosiest pub by a long shot. It’s a tiny, rustic wooden space with good vibes, cheap beer and the occasional live folk-rock band (with compulsory dancing on tables, it would seem). There are a few outdoor tables in summer.
Pärnu KuursaalPUB
(map Google map; %5810 0165; www.parnukuursaal.ee; Mere pst 22; mains €8-10; h9pm-4am Fri & Sat; W)
This late-19th-century dance hall has been transformed into a spacious countrified beer hall with a large terrace at the back. An older mix of tourists and locals come for the draft beer and the live music, and a menu that takes its meat and beer snacks seriously.
Romantic BarBAR
(map Google map; %445 1625; www.terviseparadiis.ee; 8th fl Tervise Paradiis, Side 14; h2pm-midnight)
Despite the cheesy name and bland hotel-bar vibe, the superb sea views from this venue make it the perfect setting for a sundowner cocktail or a nightcap, either inside on the white, podlike leather chairs or on the small terrace.
SunsetCLUB
(map Google map; %444 0429; www.sunset.ee; Ranna pst 3; h11pm-5am Fri & Sat Jun-Aug)
Pärnu’s biggest and most famous summertime nightclub has an outdoor beach terrace and a sleek multifloor interior with plenty of nooks for when the dance floor gets crowded. Imported DJs and bands keep things cranked until the early hours.
3Entertainment
In summer, concerts are held at traditional venues such as the concert hall and Kuursaal, as well as in parks such as Vallikäär and Munamäe, the town hall, churches and the grounds of the beautiful Villa Ammende.
Pärnu Concert HallCLASSICAL MUSIC
(map Google map; Pärnu konserdimaja; %445 5810; www.concert.ee; Aida 4; hbox office 10am-3pm Mon-Fri & 1hr before performances)
This striking riverside glass-and-steel auditorium with first-rate acoustics is considered the best concert venue in Estonia.
Endla TheatreTHEATRE
(map Google map; %442 0667; www.endla.ee; Keskväljak 1; hclosed Jun)
Pärnu’s best theatre stages a wide range of performances (usually in Estonian). It also houses an art gallery, a jazz club and an open-air cafe.
7Shopping
Maarja-Magdaleena GildARTS & CRAFTS
(map Google map; %5887 2790; www.maarjamagdaleenagild.ee; Uus 5; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat)
The artisans of the Mary Magdalene Guild sell their wares (leather, glass, paper, weaving, felt, jewellery, pottery) from the main shop downstairs and from their various little studios scattered throughout the building. Established in 2007, the Guild resurrects a 16th-century original, the oldest of Pärnu’s known guilds.
8Information
Pärnu Tourist Information Centre (%447 3000; www.visitparnu.com; Uus 4; h9am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun mid-Sep–mid-May) Located in the neoclassical town hall, in Old Town.
Pärnu Central Library (Pärnu keskraamatukogu; %445 5707; www.pkr.ee; Akadeemia tänav 3; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat Jun-Aug, 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat Sep-May) Offers quiet and free wi-fi.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Pärnu Airport (Pärnu lennujaam, EPU; %447 5000; www.parnu-airport.ee; Lennujaama tee, Eametsa) lies on the northern edge of town, west of the Tallinn road, 5km from the town centre. It’s only used by one small airline, Luftverkehr Friesland-Harle (LFH, www.lendame.ee), for flights to the islands of Kihnu and Ruhnu, and then only in winter (Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays) when sea travel is impossible. Bus 23 connects the bus station and the airport (€1,15 minutes), or a taxi should cost no more than €8.
BOAT
From May to October Veeteed runs one to three ferry services per week between Pärnu and Ruhnu Island (adult/child return €20/10, 3¼ hours).
Pärnu Yacht Club (Pärnu jahtklubi; %447 1750; www.jahtklubi.ee; Lootsi 6) has a marina with a customs point, along with a restaurant and accommodation.
BUS
Buses stop at the corner of Pikk and Ringi, but the main bus station ticket office (Ringi 3; h8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, 9am-5pm Sun) is about 100m away, across Ringi (look for the red ‘bussijaam’ sign). International coaches head from here to as far afield as St Petersburg. Lux Express (www.ticket.luxexpress.eu) runs to the following destinations:
Kuressaare €9 to €16, three hours, three daily
Tallinn €9 to €11, two hours, up to 11 per day
Tartu €8 to €10, 2¾ hours, up to five per day
Viljandi €5 to €7, 1½ hours, up to five per day
Regional bus 321 also runs once a day to Haapsalu (€5.10, 2¼ hours).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Laverte (%5451 2515; www.laverterent.ee; Rõugu 23; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri), a local company, is good for car hire.
8Getting Around
Pärnu’s broad, leafy streets and long beachfront invite cycling in summer. Tõruke Rattarent (%502 8269; www.bicyclerentalparnu.eu; Ranna pst 2; bike per hour/day/week €2.50/10/47; h9am-7pm Jun-Aug) rents bikes from a stand between the beach and the stadium on Ranna pst.
There are local buses but given that all the sights are within walking distance of each other, you probably won’t need to bother with them. Travel cards can be bought from kiosks for €2, also the price of an hour’s travel, or you can buy the same ticket from the driver for €3.
Taxis line up near the bus station on Ringi. Local companies include E-Takso (%1300; www.etakso.ee; flagfall €2.90, per km €0.96) and Pärnu Takso (%1222; www.parnutakso.ee; flagfall €2.50, per km €0.90).
Kihnu
POP 487
Kihnu Island, 40km southwest of Pärnu in the Gulf of Rīga, is a living museum of Estonian culture. Many islander women still wear the traditional, homespun, striped kört (skirt) nearly every day. There are a handful of sights in the four villages on the 7km-long island, which is fringed with long, quiet beaches along its western coast.
In December 2003 Unesco declared the Kihnu’s culture and traditions ‘a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity’. This honour is a tribute to the rich cultural traditions that are still practised, in song, dance, the celebration of traditional spiritual festivals and the making of handicrafts. Kihnu’s language is a distinct dialect of Estonian, with liberal Swedish elements. That the island’s customs have remained intact for so many centuries is thanks to its isolation.
1Sights
Kihnu MuseumMUSEUM
(map; %5818 8094; https://kihnu.kovtp.ee/muuseumist1; Linaküla; adult/child €3/1.50; h10am-5pm May-Aug, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Fri Oct-Apr; p)
You can learn more about Kihnu Jõnn (the locally famous skipper who sailed all the world’s oceans) and the island’s unique history and culture at this vividly decorated museum in a former schoolhouse in the western village of Linaküla. Workshops such as net-making and doll-making can be prearranged (€25 per person per hour).
St Nicholas’ Orthodox ChurchCHURCH
(map; Nikolaose kirik; Linaküla; hby appointment)
The islanders are among the minority of ethnic Estonians who adhere to the Russian Orthodox religion. This pretty little church at the centre of the island dates from 1786, with some mid-19th-century additions. Note the small onion dome crowning the steeple, a sign of its conversion from Lutheranism to Orthodoxy.
Kihnu TuletornLIGHTHOUSE
(map; Rootsiküla; adult/child €3/1.50; h10am-6pm daily Jun-Aug, 10am-3pm Sat May & Sep; p)
Constructed in parts shipped from England in 1864, this 29m-high lighthouse flashes at passing ships from the southern extremity of Pitkänä peninsula. In summer you can climb to the top to enjoy the views.
4Sleeping & Eating
Homestays are popular as they provide an opportunity to interact with locals and experience home cooking. See www.visitestonia.com for options; chances are your hosts won’t speak English.
Rock City GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE€€
(map; Rock City Külalistemaja; %5626 2181; www.rockcity.ee; Sääre; sites per person €5, d/tr from €30/40, cabin €38; hMay-Aug; pW)
Near Kihnu’s port, this former Soviet Party lodging offers 45 beds across simple, wood-floored doubles and triples with shared bathroom. There are also three campsites, four double cabins, a sauna house and two four-room houses among the pines. A two-course meal in the ‘Rock City Tavern’ (open 10am to 6pm) costs €13.
Tolli Tourist FarmGUESTHOUSE€€
(map; %527 7380; www.kihnukallas.ee; Sääre; sites per person €8, s/d without breakfast from €22/44; hMay-Sep; p)
A working farm in the 19th century, Tolli offers rooms in the main farmhouse, in the barn or in a rustic log cabin, plus sites to pitch your own tent. Other services include a sauna, boating excursions, basic meals, excursions around the island and passage to the mainland in a 10-person fishing boat (€70, irrespective of passenger numbers).
8Information
Kihnurand Travel Agency (%525 5172; www.kihnurand.ee) Arranges day trips and tours.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
In winter (usually from December or whenever the boats stop), LFH (www.lendame.ee) flies to and from Pärnu.
BOAT
AAs long as ice conditions allow (from at least mid-May to the end of October), there are ferries to Kihnu operated by Veeteed (%443 1069; www.veeteed.com) departing from Munalaid, 40km southwest of Pärnu (adult/child/car/bike €4/2/15/1, one hour, two to four daily). Tickets and timetables are available online.
ABuses from Pärnu to Munalaid are timed to meet the ferries.
AOn Kihnu, the ferry dock is halfway between the villages of Sääre and Lemsi.
8Getting Around
The best way to get around the island is by bicycle. Various places, including most accommodation providers, hire bikes for around €12 per day.