The centre of Europe, a fairy-tale castle and ancient castle mounds lie within easy reach of the capital. There is also the trip to Paneriai, the site of the biggest Holocaust massacres on Lithuanian territory.
Some 11km southwest of Vilnius, the pine forest site of Paneriai is notorious as the site of approximately 100,000 murders – by subunits of the Nazi secret police and their Lithuanian assistants. It’s a sombre, thought-provoking place.
Around 70% of those killed in Paneriai were Jewish. Other victims were Lithuanian and Polish soldiers and partisan fighters, Roma, prisoners of war and priests.
A small museum (%tours 8-699 90384; www.jmuseum.lt; Agrastų gatvė 15;
h9am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, by appointment Oct-Apr)
F details the practicalities of the massacres, with eyewitness reports detailing how they unfolded. The killings began with the execution of 348 people on 11 July 1941; that month alone, around 5000 people were killed. A walking path connects Jewish, Soviet and Polish monuments and locations associated with the killings, such as prison bunkers and pits where victims were shot.
Daily trains travel between Vilnius and Paneriai station (€0.70, 10 minutes, one to three hourly). To reach the museum, make a right down Agrastų gatvė and walk for 1km.
%528 / Pop 4480
A red-brick Gothic castle, rising like an apparition from the waters of Lake Galvė, is the crowning attraction of Trakai. Spread along a 2km-long peninsula only 28km from Vilnius, this attractive little town is an enormously popular day trip.
With practically the entire town gazetted as a national park (www.seniejitrakai.lt), it’s fitting that Trakai’s very name derives from the Lithuanian word for a forest glade. Its castle roosts on one of 21 islands in Lake Galvė, which opens out from the northern end of the peninsula. The 82-sq-km protected area also encompasses the ruins of an earlier fortification among its reed-fringed lakes.
Grand Duke Gedisminas is thought to have made Trakai his capital in the 1320s and Kęstutis based his 14th-century court here. Beyond the castle, there’s outstanding natural beauty and Karaite culture, architecture and cuisine, belonging to a Judaic minority group who have lived in Trakai since medieval times.
1Sights
oTrakai CastleCASTLE
(map Google map; Trakų Pilis; %528-53 946; www.trakaimuziejus.lt; adult/concession €8/4;
h10am-7pm;
c)
Stepping across the wooden walkway to Trakai’s Gothic castle is like tripping into a fairy tale. The castle is estimated to date from around 1400, when Grand Duke Vytautas needed stronger defences than the peninsula castle afforded. Arranged between its coral-coloured brick towers, the excellent Trakai History Museum conveys the flavour of past eras: chainmail, medieval weapons, 19th-century embroidery and glassware, plus talking knights, projected onto the stone walls.
In summer the courtyard is a magical stage for concerts and plays. Archery and shooting ranges offer the chance to learn how you’d have fared as a castle defender.
The castle’s prominence as a holy site is reflected in its collection of religious art.
Karaite Ethnographic MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; Karaimų Etnografinė Paroda; %528-55 286; www.trakaimuziejus.lt; Karaimų gatvė 22; adult/child €2/1;
h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)
Displaying traditional dress, arresting photographs and items from daily life, this small ethnographic museum traces the ancestry of the Karaites, a Judaic sect and Turkic minority originating in Baghdad, which adheres to the Law of Moses. Around the year 1400, Lithuanian Grand Duke Vytautas brought 383 Karaite families from the Crimea to Trakai, installing them as castle guards. They later took on occupations including horse breeding, handicrafts and agriculture. Only about 60 Karaite people still live in Trakai and their numbers – fewer than 280 throughout Lithuania – are dwindling rapidly.
Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin MaryBASILICA
(map Google map; www.trakubaznycia.lt; Birutės gatvė 5; 9am-6.30pm)
Founded around the same time as Trakai Castle, and also by Grand Duke Vytautas, this 15th-century parish church has a richly decorated baroque altar and a large collection of ecclesiastical art. Its centrepiece is the Trakai Mother of God, a revered image thought to have been donated by Vytautas himself.
KenessaRELIGIOUS SITE
(map Google map; Karaimų gatvė 30; admission by donation)
This well-maintained wooden prayer house, with its interior dome, is a rare surviving example of Karaite architecture. Arrange a visit at the Karaite Ethnographic Museum.
Peninsula CastleRUINS
(map Google map; www.piliakalniai.lt)
The peaceful ruins of the Peninsula Castle, built from 1362 to 1382 by the medieval Duke Kęstutis and destroyed in the 17th century, are around 700m south of the Island Castle. The peninsula itself is dotted with old wooden cottages, many built by the Karaites, and offers great views of the main castle, town and lakes.
Sacred Art ExhibitionMUSEUM
(map Google map; Sacralineo Meno Muziejus; %528-53 945; www.trakaimuziejus.lt; Kęstučio gatvė 4; adult/student €3/1.50;
h10am-5pm Wed-Sun)
This small exhibition space, housed in a former Dominican chapel, displays a range of religious and sacral objects, including altarpieces, crosses, monstrances and chalices.
Towards the end of the 14th century, Grand Duke Vytautas invited Crimean Tatar Muslims (Lipka Tatars) to settle in pagan Lithuania, providing additional defence against the threat of the Christian Teutonic Knights.
The Lipka Tatars settled around Vilnius, Trakai and Kaunas, and while today they number just over 3000, their heritage is still visible in the form of surviving mosques and monuments and their contribution to the country’s cuisine (chebureki).
You can visit one of the sites of original Tatar settlements on the southeastern outskirts of Vilnius. The historic village of Nemėžis is home to an attractive wooden mosque (Nemėžis Masjid; Totorių gatvė 4, Nemėžis; hhours vary) dating back to the early 20th century that survived Soviet occupation as a munitions store. Look for one of the most beautiful copies of the Quran near the mihrab (prayer niche), and for the ancient Tatar cemetery out back.
2Activities
The tourist office has information about a plethora of activities, including boating, horse riding, hot-air ballooning (arranged in Vilnius) and sailing. It also hires out bikes (per hour/day €3/14) and has maps for a 14km cycling route around the main sights. Winter offers horse-drawn sled rides, skiing and ice-fishing.
Irkluojam SUP RentalWATER SPORTS
(map Google map; %8-656 22822; www.irkluojam.lt; 2hr €12)
On the lakeshore, some 300m north of the bridge to the castle, these guys rent stand-up paddleboards and offer instruction.
Varnikai Cognitive Walking WayWALKING
For a lovely stroll out of Trakai, head for this botanical-zoological preserve with its interpretive trail, 4km east of town. To get here, follow the signs marked ‘Varnikų Gamtos Takas’ across two lake bridges.
BoatingBOATING
(map Google map; %8-6095 1305)
Pick up a pedalo (per hour €6) or rowing boat (per hour €5) near the footbridge leading to the Island Castle. Open during daylight hours, in summer.
4Sleeping
Trakai is an easy day trip from Vilnius, but if you want to overnight the village is pleasingly sedate come evening (and the castle looks spectacular at sunset). Along Karaimų gatvė and Trakų gatvė there are plenty of midrange lakeside hotels – many within appealing traditional wooden houses.
Kempingas SlėnyjeCAMPGROUND€
(map; %528-53 380; www.camptrakai.lt; Slėnio gatvė 1; adult/car/tent €7.50/5/3, summer house for 4 people €40)
Some 5km out of Trakai in Slėnje, on the northern side of Lake Galvė off the road to Vievis, this campsite has accommodation for all budgets. There are plenty of activities on offer, including a sauna and steam bath, barbecues, bikes and boats for hire, folklore evenings to enjoy and a beach to sprawl on.
Karaimų 13GUESTHOUSE€€
(map Google map; %528-51 911; www.karaimai.lt; Karaimų gatvė 13; s/d €43/58;
i
W)
This lovingly renovated, simple house boasts a cafe that serves Karaite food. The wooden house has been rebuilt in the authentic style of Karaim architecture, with plenty of natural light and blond wood fittings. The six guest rooms share kitchen facilities.
Apvalaus Stalo KlubasHOTEL€€€
(map Google map; %528-55 595; www.asklubas.lt; Karaimų gatvė 53a; r €78-198;
i
W
s)
Perfectly situated lakeside, this hotel has unrivalled views of the castle, and it’s the ideal place to romance your sweetie. Choose a room in either the more elegant French-provincial Ežeras villa, with comfy furnishings and bold colours on the walls, or the more workaday, modern (and slightly cheaper) digs at the Karaimai villa. There’s also an excellent restaurant, Bona Lounge.
5Eating
Trakai is renowned for its Karaite cuisine, imported by the Turkic Judaic sect in the 15th century. Kibinai (pasties filled with meat or mushrooms) are the speciality here.
Senoji KibininėKARAITE€
(map Google map; %528-55 865; www.kibinas.lt; Karaimų gatvė 65; pasties from €1.60, mains €5-9;
h10am-10pm)
Draped with antiques, wall paintings and wood-carved finery, the interior of this traditional house is an understandably popular place for the full Karaite culinary experience. It’s worth braving the crowds for the superlative kibinai (Karaite pasties) with multiple fillings, plus a supporting cast of soups, salads and dumplings.
oBona LoungeINTERNATIONAL€€
(map Google map; %8-699 13769; www.bona.lt; Karaimų gatvė 53a; mains €10-22;
hnoon-11pm Jun-Sep, to 10pm Thu-Sun Oct-May;
v)
With mostly unobstructed views of the castle, Bona has the best sunset seats in town. The ubiquitous kibinai (Karaite pasties) aside, the short and sweet menu specialises in more adventurous fare than its Trakai brethren – from grilled catfish with asparagus and portobello mushrooms with blue cheese to cold cucumber soup with wasabi crisp. Decent original cocktails, too.
KybynlarKARAITE€€
(map Google map; %8-698 06320; www.kybynlar.lt; Karaimų gatvė 29; pasties from €2.20, mains €7-14;
hnoon-9pm Mon, 11am-9pm Tue-Thu & Sun, 11am-10pm Fri & Sat)
Best known for the eponymous kibinai (pasties stuffed with lamb, beef and other goodies), this is Trakai’s best spot for traditional Karaite cuisine. There’s also lamb and date stew, stuffed grape leaves and baked chicken-and-cheese stacks, fragrant with cinnamon. It gets busy but a shot of krupnik (clove-scented, honeyed vodka) alleviates the wait. Alternatively, grab kibinai from the takeaway counter.
KiubėtėLITHUANIAN€€
(map Google map; %528-59 160; www.kiubete.lt; Trakų gatvė 2; mains €7-9;
h10.30am-11pm)
Offering a mix of Lithuanian and Karaite fare, Kiubėtė has a lovely location opposite Lake Totoriškių, on the quieter side of the Trakai peninsula.
8Information
Police (%528-32 230; Vytauto gatvė 57) Located in the centre of Trakai.
Tourist Office (%528-51 934; www.trakai-visit.lt; Karaimų gatvė 41;
h9am-6pm May-Sep, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr) Stocked with brochures, staffed by English speakers who can organise everything from boat trips to accommodation, and with an adjoining handicrafts shop.
8Getting There & Away
Trains travel between Trakai’s train station (Trakų geležinkelio stotis; %7005 5111; www.litrail.lt; Vilniaus gatvė 5) and Vilnius (€1.80, 35 minutes, nine to 10 daily). Regular buses also link Vilnius to the Trakai bus station (€2, 30 minutes, at least two hourly).
%382
The quiet town of Kernavė (ker-nar-veh) is home to one of Lithuania’s most important historical sites, the Kernavė Cultural Reserve.
1Sights
Kernavė Cultural ReserveARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(map; Kernavės Kultūrinio Rezervato; %382-47 385; www.kernave.org; Kerniaus gatvė;
hinfo office 10am-6pm Wed-Sun)
F
Deemed an ‘exceptional testimony to 10 millennia of human settlements in this region’ by Unesco, which made it a World Heritage site in 2004, Kernavė is a must-see. Thought to have been the spot where Mindaugas (responsible for uniting Lithuania for the first time) celebrated his coronation in 1253, this cultural reserve comprises four old castle mounds and the remains of a medieval town.
The sprawling reserve sits on the southern edge of town, facing the Neris River, and gives a good sense of why the site was chosen. While the museum and guided tours are highly worthwhile, there’s nothing to stop you simply wandering up and down the hill-forts at your leisure.
The official opening hours are for the info office; you can wander into the reserve anytime.
Archaeological & Historical MuseumMUSEUM
(map; Archeologijos ir Istorijos Muziejus; %382-47 385; www.kernave.org; Kerniaus gatvė 4a; adult/child €2/1, tours €20;
h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr, May, Sep & Oct, Wed-Sun Jun-Aug, to 4pm Nov-Mar)
This absorbing museum traces the history of the area from 9000 BC to the 13th and 14th centuries AD. There is a wealth of artefacts on display – pottery, Iron Age tools, intricate horn seals – but the highlights are the gilded head decorations, silver jewellery from Russia and cowrie shells from the Indian Ocean that indicate just how far trade had spread during Kernavė’s heyday.
zFestivals & Events
Rasos FeastCULTURAL
(h23 Jun)
This midsummer festival brings medieval fun and frolics to Kernavė – axe throwing, catapulting, mead making and floating flower wreaths down the river. Pyres burn all night.
International Festival of Experimental ArchaeologyCULTURAL
(www.kernave.org; hJul)
This three-day festival, held annually in early July, involves the presentation of ye olde crafts: Stone Age fire-starting techniques, bronze casting, yarn dyeing, Viking age smithing and much more.
4Sleeping
Kėrnave is an easy day trip from Vilnius, but it’s worth lingering overnight, particularly if attending a summer festival. There’s a hotel and a couple of guesthouses.
oGallery Guest RoomsGUESTHOUSE€
(map; %8-616 36291; Vilniaus gatvė 8; s/d/tr €30/33/37;
W)
Bright quilts on beds, plenty of art scattered about the house, and a flower-filled garden that doubles as a steampunk sculpture gallery greet guests at this centrally located guesthouse. The owner will feed you a home-cooked breakfast and maybe even dumplings.
5Eating
Kernavės SlėnisINTERNATIONAL€
(map; %8-674 38052; www.facebook.com/kernaves.slenis; Vilniaus gatvė 14b; mains €7-12;
hnoon-9pm Sat & Sun)
Overlooking a pond, this weekend-only restaurant offers crowdpleasers such as big plates of ribs and lasagne.
8Getting There & Away
To get to Kernavė, follow the road through Dūkštos from Maisiagala on the main road north to Ukmergė, or take a minibus from Vilnius (€2.50, one hour, six daily).
Some 21km north of Vilnius, off the Utena road, is Europos Parkas (%5-237 7077; www.europosparkas.lt; Europos Parkas gatvė; adult/child €11/6;
h10am-sunset). Leading contemporary sculptors, including Sol LeWitt and Dennis Oppenheim, show over 100 works in wooded parkland (bring mosquito repellent). These include the largest sculpture in the world made entirely from TV sets (3000 of them); it’s also a maze, leading to a fallen statue of Lenin.
The sculpture park was the brainchild of Lithuanian sculptor Gintaras Karosas, inspired by the ‘Centre of Europe’ tag. Every year international workshops are held here, attracting artists from all over the world.
To get here, take bus 66 (marked Skirgiskes/Europos Parkas) from the Zalgirio stop on Kalvarijų gatvė (€1, 35 minutes, nine to 12 daily).
Eastern Lithuania, indeed the entire country, is prime stork-sighting territory. Lithuania has approximately 13,000 pairs, giving it the highest-density stork population in Europe.
Measuring 90cm in height, this beautiful long-legged, wide-winged creature is breathtaking in flight. Equally marvellous is the catwalk stance it adopts when strutting through meadows in search of frogs to feast on. It sleeps standing on one leg.
The arrival of the stork from Africa each year marks the start of spring. Lithuanians celebrate this traditional protector of the home with Stork Day (25 March), the day farmers traditionally stir their seeds, yet to be planted, to ensure a bigger and better crop.
Storks on their return home usually settle back into the same nest they have used for years. Some are splayed out across wooden cartwheels, fixed on tall poles by kindly farmers keen to have their farmstead blessed by the good fortune the stork brings.
Some of Lithuania’s most spectacular scenery is found in the deep forests of the country’s eastern and southern corners, with a lake district that extends into Belarus and Latvia.
Aukštaitija National Park is Lithuania’s oldest, framed by the 900-sq-km Labanoras-Pabradė Forest. Dzūkija, in the far south, is the biggest national park, surrounded by the 1500-sq-km Druskininkai-Varėna Forest. Both parks are blessed with an abundant berry crop in early summer, while mushrooms sprout by the bucketful from early spring until late autumn, and both parks are heaven for canoeists, cyclists and hikers.
Close to the Dzūkija National Park is the spa resort of Druskininkai, where Lithuanians indulge in the likes of warm honey massages. The Grūtas sculpture park next door, with its busts of Lenin, Stalin and the gang, is a breath of Soviet nostalgia.
%386
In 406-sq-km Aukštaitija (owk-shtai-ti-ya) National Park it’s clear where Lithuania’s love for nature arose. This land of whispering forests and blue lakes was once pagan country.
Around 70% of the park comprises pine, spruce and deciduous forests, inhabited by elk, deer and wild boar. Its highlight is a labyrinth of 126 lakes, the deepest at 60.5m being Lake Tauragnas. A footpath leads to the top of 155m Ladakalnis (Ice Hill), from where a panorama of some seven lakes unfolds. Particularly pretty is Lake Baluošas, ensnared by woods and speckled with islands. White-tailed and golden eagles prey here and storks are plentiful. The Trainiškis Wildlife Sanctuary and Ažvinčiai Forest Reserve, home to 150- to 200-year-old pine trees, can only be visited with park guides.
The main jumping-off point for the park is the sleepy town of Ignalina. Nearby Palūšė, 3km west of Ignalina, is home to the national park office.
1Sights
There are around 100 settlements within the park itself: Šuminai, Salos ll, Vaišnoriškės, Varniškės II and Strazdai are protected ethnographic centres that date back centuries.
The park has several ancient piliakalnis (fortification mounds), such as the Taurapilio mound on the southern shore of Lake Tauragnas, and some quaint wooden architecture, including a fine church and bell tower at Palūsė. Around Lake Lūšiai a wooden sculpture trail depicts Lithuanian folklore.
Ginučiai WatermillHISTORIC BUILDING
(%386-47 478; Ginučiai; adult/student €2/1;
h10am-6pm Tue-Sat May-Sep)
This 19th-century mill in Ginučiai retains its original mechanism, and you can poke around its interior and check out the ye olde farming equipment in the attic. If there are enough visitors, the curator may do a demo of how grain used to be ground. It’s possible to overnight here as well.
Museum of Ancient BeekeepingMUSEUM
(Senorinės Bitininkystės Muziejus; %8-686 12105; www.biciumuziejus.lt; Stripeikių kaimas, Stripeikiai; adult/concession €2/1;
h10am-6pm Wed-Sun May–mid-Oct;
c)
Stripeikiai’s Ancient Beekeeping Museum spins the story of beekeeping through a merry collection of carved wooden statues, historic log and straw hives that have been used by locals for centuries and an interactive games room for children. Buy your honey here. It’s reachable via an unpaved 5km single track through pine woods that branches off the main road just east of Ginučiai.
2Activities
Water sports, cycling and hiking are the main activities in the park. Canoes and SUPs are rented out at several locations, including Palūšė valtinė (%8-650 58515; www.valtine.lt;
h8am-8pm May-Oct) and Tiki Inn. Mushroom and berry picking are only permitted in designated forest areas. The national park office and tourist office have maps of cycling and walking trails.
4Sleeping
Pick up homestay lists from the Aukštaitija National Park Office in Palūšė or the Ignalina Tourist Office. Ignalina, right next to the park’s eastern boundary, has an excellent boutique hotel and several guesthouses and apartments for rent.
Tiki InnGUESTHOUSE€
(%8-652 72444; www.paluse.lt/place/tiki-inn-paluse; Pašakarvio gatvė 2, Palūšė; d €45;
W)
This quirky little slice of Baltic Polynesia is a great lakeside option in the sweet town of Palūšė. It has a kitchen, common area, a beautiful terrace for watching the sunset, and is as welcoming as you could possibly hope for. Also rents kayaks and paddle-boards. Prices can rise, depending on the season and demand.
ŽuvėdraHOTEL€
(%8-686 09069; www.zuvedra.com; Mokyklos gatvė 11, Ignalina; s/d/q €29/50/72;
p
W)
This small hotel on the shores of Lake Paplovinis is an excellent in-town choice, within easy walking distance of the tourist office in Ignalina. The helpful staff can arrange activities including bike and boat rental, and the restaurant serves decent Lithuanian food (mains €6 to €8).
Ginučiai WatermillGUESTHOUSE€
(%8-616 29366; www.anp.lt; Ginučių 22; d €35)
This 19th-century watermill offers stripped-back rooms with clean wood interiors and almost perfect serenity. Bring your own food to cook in the kitchen, and end the evening relaxing by the fire or in the sauna. It’s open from April to October, weather-dependent, and you can book through the national park office.
oLake & Library HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(%8-686 97248; www.facebook.com/lakeandlibraryhotel; Turistų gatvė 30b, Ignalina; d from €53;
p
W)
Overlooking the white-sand beach of Gavys Lake, this delightful boutique hotel is the area’s loveliest. The hosts go out of their way to make guests feel welcome, the breakfast spread is terrific and all the rooms are individually styled, with a quirky mix of chandeliers, contemporary art and book-filled shelves. Owners can help arrange visits to the Ignalina nuclear power station.
MiškiniškėsCABIN€€
(%8-616 00692; www.miskiniskes.lt; d/apt €55/130;
W)
If you’ve ever harboured wilderness survival fantasies – canoeing and hiking all day among the spruce and pine, eating heartily then sleeping deeply in a log cabin – then Miškiniškės is the place. Despite the forest setting, it’s beautifully appointed: the rooms are snug and attractive, there’s wi-fi, a sauna and even a gym. You’ll need your own wheels to get here.
5Eating
Most of the park’s accommodation is geared towards self-caterers, though home-cooked meals can be arranged at homestays. There is one excellent restaurant in Ignalina.
oRomnesa IgnalinaLITHUANIAN€
(%8-600 26354; www.romnesa.lt; Strigailiškis; mains €4-8;
h11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat;
W
v)
On the western outskirts of Ignalina, Romnesa really delivers when it comes to creative Lithuanian cuisine. The Old Testament–thick menu features such culinary delights as baked pike-perch with spinach, boletus stew, and pork chops with chanterelle sauce. Spuds in various forms are well represented and the homemade gira (kvass) is terrific.
8Information
Aukštaitija National Park Office (Aukštaitijos Nacionalinis Parkas; %386-53 135; www.anp.lt; Lūšių gatvė 16, Palūšė;
h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 3.45pm Fri) Located in Palūšė, uphill from the main road opposite Lake Lūsiai, this office is handy for park maps and cycling routes. Staff can arrange treks and backpacking trips by boat, English-speaking guides (€15 per hour for groups of up to 20) and even skiing, fishing, horse riding and sledging.
Ignalina Tourist Office (%386-52 597; www.ignalina.info; Ateites gatvė 23;
h9am-6pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun Jun-Aug) Located in Ignalina’s main square, this centre sells maps and provides information on the park’s activities and accommodation.
8Getting There & Away
Hop on a bus (€6.50, two hours, 14 daily) or train (€4.40, 1½ to 1¾ hours, seven to eight daily) from Vilnius to Ignalina. Several buses travel daily between Ignalina and Palūšė (€1, 10 minutes).
One of Lithuania’s oldest towns, Molėtai (mo-ley-tai) is the jumping-off point for one of Lithuania’s most unusual museums and an observatory, located near town.
The Lithuanian Ethnocosmology Museum (map; Lietuvos etnokosmologijos muziejus; %383-45 424; www.etnokosmomuziejus.lt; Žvaigždžių gatvė, Kulionys; adult/child €2.40/1.60, night tours €6-8;
h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) explores the cosmos’s connection to cultural ideas of hell, heaven and earth in its bubble-shaped exhibition centre. If you attend the night tours with English-speaking guides, two hours after sunset, you can peek through the two giant telescopes. Nearby, the Molėtai Astronomical Observatory (map; Molėtų astronomijos observatorija;
%383-45 444; http://mao.tfai.vu.lt/sci; Kulionys)
F boasts northern Europe’s largest telescope; book your free visit in advance online or by phone.
To reach both, catch a bus from Molėtai to Utena, ask to be let off at the ‘etnokosmologijos muziejus’ turn-off (signposted 10km north of town) and follow the road to the right for another 4km.
In town, you can bed down at the hospitable Gerugnė (map; %698 13423; www.gerugne.lt; Vilniaus gatvė 66; d/tr €36/45;
W) guesthouse; a short walk away, Senoji Užeiga (map;
%676 04463; www.senojiuzeiga.lt; Vilniaus gatvė 29; mains €4.50-6.50;
h8am-8pm) serves generous portions of Lithuanian classics.
Buses from Vilnius (€5, one to 1½ hours, 16 daily) stop at the Moletai Bus Station (www.moletuautobusai.lt; Vilniaus gatvė 2).
%386 / Pop 19,600
The purpose-built worker-housing town of Visaginas is as Soviet as you’ll get outside the borders of Russia. Built in 1975 for employees at the former Ignalina Nuclear Power Station nearby, it’s packed with identical-looking blocks of flats amid forest.
In its heyday around 5000 shift workers were shuttled between Visaginas and the former plant, about 3km east of the town centre. A Geiger counter recorded the day’s radiation level and Russian was the lingua franca on the streets.
The shutting down of the Ignalina nuclear power station in 2009 plunged the town into uncertainty, though a boost in nuclear tourism may change the Visaginas’ fortunes.
4Sleeping & Eating
Idile B&BB&B€
(map; %8-652 04493; www.idile-visaginas.com; Energetikų gatvė 5; s €27, d €32-60;
p
W)
The only low-rise building in Visaginas, this friendly B&B comprises a melange of simple rooms, a short walk from the beach of Visaginas Lake. Bicycles are available for rent and helpful owners can assist with arranging a visit to the Ignalina nuclear power station if you contact them in advance. There’s a buffet breakfast.
Spa-Hotel GabriellaHOTEL€
(map; %386-70 171; www.gabriella.lt; Jaunystės gatvė 21; s/d €38/44;
p
W
s)
The Gabriella, as the name suggests, offers massage and spa options, but isn’t as fancy as the name implies, with a distinctly Soviet vibe and unsmiling service. There’s also a decent restaurant – one of a handful of options in town.
IkuraSUSHI€
(map; %8-602 41241; www.ikura.lt; Taikos prospektas 72; sushi sets €5-7;
hnoon-9pm)
8Getting There & Away
From Visaginas Train Station (Visagino geležinkelio stotis; Taikos prospektas), just north of town, there are services to Vilnius (€6, 2¼ hours, six daily). There are also buses to Vilnius (€8.50, 2½ hours, 13 daily) via Ignalina.
In its day the Ignalina Nuclear Power Station near Visaginas (and not, confusingly, near Ignalina the town) was one of the technological wonders of the world. Unfortunately, though, the design was similar to the one used at the Chernobyl nuclear plant in Ukraine, which suffered a catastrophic meltdown in 1986.
After Lithuania joined the EU in 2004, the country came under pressure to shut down the two reactors. The plug was pulled on the second reactor at the end of 2009.
Though power is no longer produced here, the plant is still the subject of some controversy. Foremost is the question of who will bear the prohibitive decommissioning costs, including the billions of euros needed to clean up the reactor site and dispose of redundant radioactive material. More information on the decommissioning can be found at www.iae.lt.
The 2019 Chernobyl miniseries on HBO (largely shot on location in Vilnius) has led to a massive rise in public interest in nuclear tourism and Visaginas has been besieged by visitors wishing to visit the nuclear power station. Demand is such that you might be waiting for months for a slot, and you have to register in advance.
It’s possible to arrange visits with the help of Idile B&B in Visaginas or the Lake & Library Hotel in Ignalina, but you have to contact them a few weeks ahead. Visits from Visaginas cost around €60; alternatively, you can go on an organised tour from Vilnius with PlayVilnius. Tours give you a chance to walk through the power plant, clad in protective gear, look around the turbine hall and control room and even strike a pose on top of the actual nuclear reactor.
Southwest of Aukštaitija is 528 sq km of pretty parkland dotted with 285 lakes. At its heart sits the lovely Labanoras, the largest of the many traditional villages within the park. Canoeing is a grand pastime in the park, particularly on the Lakaja River in the southern section, while cycling is a wonderful way to get around the many trails that cut through pine forest. Bikes need to be brought in from outside; the national park office in Palūšė can help with bike hire, in season.
Accommodation in the park is limited to a handful of homestays and one delightful hotel-restaurant in Labanoras village.
oHotel LabanorasBOUTIQUE HOTEL€
(%8-655 70918; www.hotellabanoras.lt; camping €5, d/tr €50/70;
W)
This charming hotel-restaurant takes you to the heart of rural Lithuania. The wooden house and outlying cottages (also rented out) are cosy and jammed with bric-a-brac, and the surrounding gardens are peaceful and (in season) watched over by abundant storks. The restaurant, serving whatever’s available in the fields and forest, is also delightful (mains cost around €7 to €9).
8Information
Labanoras Regional Park Information Centre (%387-47 142; www.labanoroparkas.lt; Seniūnijos gatvė 19;
h8am-5pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus 9am-5pm Sat summer) A trove of information on the flora, fauna and geography of Labanoras, the centre has advice for walkers, bikers, kayakers and foragers. It can also help you find canoes and kayaks for hire (usually around €15 per day).
Southern Lithuania
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
%313 / Pop 16,100
The reputation of Druskininkai’s healing mineral waters dates back centuries and reached its zenith in the 1800s. During the days of the USSR, the old and ailing sought miracle cures at the famous health resort. Today it attracts well-heeled visitors seeking a quick detox from city life, particularly Lithuanians and tourists from Poland, Belarus and Russia.
Stark Soviet-era buildings remain, but Druskininkai’s 19th-century elegance is being restored: timber houses have carved gables and fronts awash in yellow and pastel green. Parks, fountains and promenades form the town’s leafy centre. Most refreshing of all, the town is hugged by forests of tall fir and birch and lies only a few kilometres from Dzūkija National Park.
1Sights
oGrūtas ParkMUSEUM
(map; Grūto Parkas; %8-682 42320; www.grutoparkas.lt; Grūtas; adult/child €7.50/4;
h9am-10pm Jun-Aug;
c)
With Soviet-era statues of Lenin, Stalin and prominent Lithuanian members of the Communist Party that once dominated Lithuanian towns lining the forest trails, Grūtas Park pays black-humoured homage to a dark period of history. Watchtowers pipe marching songs and a train with cattle car is a sobering reminder of mass deportations. There are three exhibition buildings in the park, displaying socialist-realist art, newspapers and USSR maps.
It’s 8km east of Druskininkai; take bus 2 via Viečiūnai (two to five daily).
Grūtas Park’s surreal mix of setting and subject matter satirises the era neatly. The park was the idea of Viliumas Malinauskas, a former collective farm head who made a fortune canning mushrooms then won the loan of hated objects like statues from the Ministry of Culture.
This open-air sculpture gallery, featuring heroic statues of Soviet partisans and Communist League of Youth Members, makes for great photo ops, and there’s a big playground for kids.
Museum of Armed Resistance & ExileMUSEUM
(map Google map; www.druskininkukulturoscentras.lt; Vilniaus alėja 24; h1-5pm Tue-Sun)
F
A simple, two-room museum on the upper floor of the Cultural Centre tells an incredible history: the forced deportation of Lithuanians to Siberia and the bravery of partisan fighters against Soviet rule. Items like fur-lined skis and ornaments carved during exile bring to life their stories of struggle.
Girios AidasMUSEUM
(Echo of the Forest; %313-53 901; MK Čiurlionio gatvė 116; adult/child €2/1;
h10am-6pm Wed-Sun)
Two kilometres east of town, Girios Aidas has been home to a museum and collection of pagan- and nature-themed wood carvings since 1972.
MK Čiurlionis Memorial MuseumMUSEUM
(map Google map; %313-52 755; www.ciurlionis.lt; MK Čiurlionio gatvė 41; adult/child €2.50/1.25;
h11am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
The life and works of Lithuania’s renowned painter-musician MK Čiurlionis are paid homage at this attractive museum in a residential neighbourhood. His treasured possessions (including a piano) are exhibited across four small buildings. The artworks in the little gallery are copies, not originals.
Joy of All Who Sorrow ChurchCHURCH
(map Google map; Laisvės Aikštė; hhours vary)
The tear-shaped domes of this 19th-century timber Russian Orthodox church, picked out in blue, white and gold, dominate Laisvės aikštė.
Mineralinio Vandens BiuvetėFOUNTAIN
(map Google map; per cup €0.10; h11am-2pm & 3-7pm)
The magical powers of local mineral water can be tested at the Dzūkija Fountain, inside the Mineralinio Vandems Biuvetė, a round green building with mosaic floor and stained-glass windows on the footpath running along the Nemunas River. Of particular note is a 1960s image of Eglė, Queen of Serpents.
Druskininkai is dotted with spas. But beware, though, not all are swish. Here’s a quick guide to help you:
Aqua Park (map Google map; %313-52 338; www.akvapark.lt; Vilniaus alėja 13-2; 2hr water entertainment adult/child from €11/9;
hnoon-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-11pm Fri, 10am-11pm Sat, 10am-9pm Sun) Families need look no further than this humid wonderland, which brings together six waterslides (the longest over 200m), spas, saunas, a wave pool, kids’ play area and more. Prices rise during summer and on weekends and public holidays.
SpaVilnius (%313-53 811; www.spa-vilnius.lt; K Dineikos gatvė 1; massage per hour from €60;
h8am-10pm) Located inside an eight-storey hotel, the Druskininkai branch of SpaVilnius is a little tucked away from the centre of things, and all the more relaxing for it. Treatments include amber baths, hydrotherapy, massages and even cosmetic surgery. Double rooms start from €95.
Europa Royale Spa (map Google map; %313 42221; www.europaroyaledruskininkai.lt; Vilniaus alėja 7; treatments €7-50;
h9am-9pm) The contemporary spa at the eponymous hotel offers a range of treatments, from salt-room sessions for asthmatics to kinesiotherapy, and a plethora of massages and wraps.
Druskininkai Health Resort (map Google map; Druskininkų gydykla; %313-60 508; www.akvapark.lt; Vilniaus alėja 11; treatments €13-84;
h8am-8pm, to 7pm Sun) Lymph-drainage, hot-stone massage and baths (whirling, herbal, mineral, mud and even vertical) are all on the menu at this well-maintained, vividly green, Soviet-era spa. Some even come seeking treatment for more serious ailments – cardiovascular, cutaneous, vestibular, endocrinal and more.
2Activities
The two main activities in Druskininkai are freewheeling around and relaxing in spas. In summer, several spots in town and by the lake rent electric scooters, hoverboards and boats.
Bike RentalCYCLING
(map Google map; %8-686 87022; Laisvės alėja 10; bikes per hour/day €3/10, buggies per 30/60min €7/12;
h8am-9pm)
Between May and October bikes and buggies can be hired at the corner of Vilniaus and Laisvės alėjas, or opposite the tourist office at MK Čiurlionio gatvė 52.
Steamboat DruskininkaiCRUISE
(map Google map; %8-612 26982; www.gelme-druskininkai.lt; Taikos gatvė 51; adult/child €12/6;
h2.30pm Tue-Sun May-Oct)
Tranquil three-hour cruises for the Liškiava Monastery leave from the Druskininkai dock.
Cable CarCABLE CAR
(map Google map; Lynu Kelias; www.lynukelias.lt; Vilniaus alėja 13-2; one-way/round-trip €3/5; h10am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
Operating both during summer and the ski season, this cable car soars above the houses and pine forests surrounding Druskininkai as it links the Aqua Park and the Snow Arena winter-sports complex.
4Sleeping
Druskininkai is rich in midrange hotels, with a few budget guesthouses and numerous apartments for rent. Regardless of budget, even where hotels don’t boast their own facilities, they often offer discount vouchers to spas or the Aqua Park.
DalijaGUESTHOUSE€
(map Google map; %313-51 814; www.dalijahotel.lt; Laisvės aikštė 21; d/tr/q €40/50/58;
W)
This charming, spick-and-span timber guesthouse is superb value. It’s right in the heart of Druskininkai, overlooking a beautiful wooden church. Rooms come with satellite TV and mini-kitchen.
oArt HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€
(map Google map; %8-677 99229; www.arthotel.lt; Šv Jokūbo gatvė 9; d/f/apt €65/79/97;
W)
The pick of Druskininkai’s non-spa accommodation, this wooden mansion comprises spacious studios in soothing blues and whites and high-beamed apartments, ideal for families, livened up by bold contemporary art.
Hotel DruskininkaiSPA HOTEL€€
(map Google map; %313-51 200; www.grandspa.lt; V Kudirkos gatvė 43; r/ste from €94/142;
p
W
s)
The Druskininkai is certainly one of the most stylish hotels in town. Behind its striking glass-and-wood facade are modern rooms bathed in natural light, a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi bubbling with Druskininkai mineral water and a hotel gym. The location is excellent, close to the centre, the river and the spas.
Aqua HotelHOTEL€€
(map Google map; %313-59 195; www.aquapark.lt; Vilniaus alėja 13-1; s/d/apt from €80/89/189;
p
W
s)
If you’re mainly in Druskininkai for a family romp at Aqua Park, this may be the place to stay. The rooms are nicely furnished, breakfast and buffet supper are included, you’re surrounded by diversions (bowling, spas, the waterpark itself), and excellent packages are available online. Prices rise on Friday, Saturday and holidays.
ReginaSPA HOTEL€€
(map Google map; %313-51 243; www.regina.lt; Kosciuškos gatvė 3; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast from €56/60/100/118;
p
W)
A grande dame of Druskininkai’s hotel scene, Regina has rooms in a pleasing classical style with just a whiff of antique glamour. It also has one of the best breakfast buffets in town and a luxuriant little spa (massage from €30).
5Eating
BoulangerieCAFE€
(map Google map; %8-633 35555; www.kepyklele.lt; MK Čiurlionio gatvė 63; cakes €2-3;
h9am-7pm)
You’ll find decent coffee as well as ice cream, Lithuanian cookies and cakes at this French-style bakery and cafe, just next to the tourist office.
HouseINTERNATIONAL€€
(map Google map; %8-679 14738; www.thehouse.lt; MK Čiurlionio gatvė 61; mains €5-15;
h9am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat;
W)
A pleasant summer terrace, good service and a crowd-pleasing menu that covers most bases (superlative takes on burgers, pasta, risottos, salads, grilled meats) make this Druskininkai’s top restaurant.
KolonadaEUROPEAN€€
(map Google map; %8-662 06062; www.sventejums.lt/kolonada; Kudirkos gatvė 22; mains €7-13;
h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
One of Druskininkai’s best locations is graced by one of its best kitchens at this terraced parkside restaurant. In good weather, grab a table overlooking the gardens and tuck into a salmon salad or pork neck with boletus foraged from Dzūkija National Park. The serenity is best accompanied by oolong tea or a colourful fruit-topped cocktail.
Toli Toli DruskininkaiINTERNATIONAL€€
(map Google map; %8-684 96378; www.facebook.com/tolitolidruskininkai; Vilniaus alėja 8; mains €6-14;
hnoon-10pm Wed & Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 10am-9pm Sun;
W
v
c)
Offering an ambitious menu tinged with Middle Eastern (falafel, shakshuka), global flavours (chicken tikka masala, pancakes with bacon and maple syrup) and good cocktails, this friendly spot with eclectic decor gets very busy in the evenings. There’s a kids’ menu too.
Etno DvarasLITHUANIAN€€
(map Google map; %8-656 19953; www.etnodvaras.lt; MK Čiurlionio gatvė 55; mains €5-9;
h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 10am-midnight Sat, 10am-11pm Sun)
Part of a Lithuanian chain of countrified restaurants, this branch delivers some of the tastiest traditional cooking in town. The speciality here are hearty cepelinai – parcels of potato dough lathered with bacon-studded sour cream. Bonus: it’s by the lake and has outdoor seating.
6Drinking & Nightlife
City CoffeeCOFFEE
(map Google map; %8-647 29545; www.facebook.com/rghtcoffee; V Kudirkos gatvė 37;
h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun;
W)
The mellow tinkling of the piano in the background and walls covered in sketches of European cities in days of yore create a welcoming atmosphere at Druskininkai’s best coffee shop. There are speciality teas for purchase and a pleasant outdoor terrace.
8Information
SEB Bankas (MK Čiurlionio gatvė 40; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Currency exchange inside, ATM outside.
Tourist Office (%313-51 777; www.info.druskininkai.lt; MK Čiurlionio gatvė 65;
h10am-1pm & 1.45-6.45pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) Brochures, bike rental (from €6) in summer, accommodation booking and advice. There’s another tourist office (
%313-60 800; www.info.druskininkai.lt; Gardino gatvė 3;
h8.30am-12.15pm & 1-5.15pm Mon-Fri)
near the bus station.
8Getting There & Away
From the bus station (%313 51 333; Gardino gatvė 1;
h5.15am-6.50pm) there are daily direct buses to/from Vilnius (€12 to €13.50, two to 2½ hours, 14 daily), Kaunas (€10 to €13, 2½ to 3½ hours, 15 daily), Klaipėda (€24 to €27, five to 6¾ hours, two daily) and Palanga (€25 to €28, 5½ to 7¼ hours, two daily). More Klaipėda and Palanga departures via Vilnius and Kaunas.
Reaching Šiauliai (€23 to €28, six hours) requires changing buses in Kaunas.
Three-hour Steamboat Druskininkai cruises for the Liškiava Monastery leave from the Druskininkai dock during the summer months.
%310
The 555-sq-km Dzūkija (dzoo-ki-ya) National Park (Lithuania’s largest) is a nature-lover’s paradise. Four-fifths of it is swathed in pine forest, cover for 48 lakes. The Ūla and Grūda Rivers, perfect for a day of canoeing, flow through it, and an abundance of mushrooms and berries grow here in season.
In addition to natural reserves, the park houses ethnographic and cultural reserves, plus protected villages such as Zervynos and Liškiava. Merkinė, 10km further down the Nemunas River, is the starting point for the 12km Black Potters’ Trail (Merkinė) around workshops where pots as black as soot are made from red clay. The extraordinary colour comes from pine-wood resin fired with the pot in an outdoor kiln. Marcinkonys, some 34km northeast of Druskininkai, is home to the second of the park’s two visitor centres.
Tradition is still very strong in this part of the country. Woodcarving and basket weaving are flourishing trades in the villages, linen and wool is handmade, and crops are still harvested with scythes.
1Sights
Čepkeliai Strict Nature ReserveNATIONAL PARK
(map; Čepkelių Valstybinis Gamtinis Rezervatas; www.cepkeliai-dzukija.lt; adult/child €1.50/0.75)
The 112-sq-km Čepkeliai reserve, the largest area of untouched nature in Lithuania, is a glorious wet wilderness of bogs, black alder swamps, Cladinoso-callunosa forest and lakes, home to more than 4000 species of animals and plants (including lynx and wolves).
Visits are limited: apply and pay the necessary fees at the Marcinkonys Visitor Centre. Between April and June, visits to the nature reserve are only possible with accredited guides.
Dzūkija National Park Ethnographic HomesteadMUSEUM
(map; Dzūkijos Nacionalinio Parko Etnografinė Sodyba; %310-39 169; Miškininkų gatvė 6, Marcinkonys; adult/child €1.50/0.75;
h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 3.45pm Sat)
Housed in an early-20th-century homestead, this exposition explores the everyday life, traditions and material culture of Dzūkian people. There are great examples of woodcarving, weaving, basket-making and beekeeping.
Liškiava MonasteryMONASTERY
(map; Liškiavos Švč Trejybės Bažnyčia; Liškiava; adult/child €2/1; h1-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun)
Commanding a verdant loop of the Nemunas River, 9km north of Druskininkai, this former Dominican monastery is famous for its seven rococo-style altars and its crypt with glass coffins.
4Sleeping
There are 15 traditional homesteads scattered about the villages, ideal for travellers wishing to experience rural Lithuanian life. Check www.gamta.cepkeliai-dzukija.lt for the complete list.
Rūta Sakalienė HomesteadHOMESTAY€
(map; Rūtos Sakalienės kaimo turizmo sodyba; %8-615 34306; www.sakalai.lt; Marcinkonys; per person €35)
Life at this homestead is as traditional as it gets. The lodgings are basic, there’s an outdoor privy instead of a flushing toilet, you wash in the creek and warm yourself by the wood fire. Homemade meals available, courtesy of the welcoming owners. There’s a bit of a language barrier, so brush up on your Lithuanian!
8Information
Merkinė Visitor Centre (%310-57 245; www.dzukijosparkas.lt; Vilniaus gatvė 3;
h8am-noon & 12.45-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3.45pm Sat) Tons of information on the surrounding environment and traditional village culture, plus walks, accommodation, cycling and canoeing. English-speaking guides for mushrooming or berrying can also be arranged at around €15 per hour, or €60 per day.
Marcinkonys Visitor Centre (%310-44 466; www.dzukijosparkas.lt; Miškininkų gatvė 61;
h8am-noon & 12.45-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon & 12.45-3.45pm Sat) The visitor centre in Marcinkonys can advise on walking, cycling and canoeing and is the starting point for the 14km Zackagiris Sightseeing Route (Zackagirio Takas) plus shorter (7km and 10.5km) walks. Access to the Čepkeliai Strict Nature Reserve can also be arranged here. A voluntary €1 contribution is levied.
8Getting There & Around
The Steamboat Druskininkai makes trips between Druskininkai and Liškiava during the summer months.
Buses to/from Druskininkai and Vilnius stop at the Merkinė intersection (Merkinės kryžkelė; €3, 30 minutes, four daily), 2km east of Merkinė town centre. Three daily trains to/from Vilnius stop at Zervynos (€4.20, 1¾ hours) and Marcinkonys (€4.50, two hours).
Cycling is a wonderful way to explore the park, and bikes can easily be hired in Druskininkai, in season. The Druskininkai tourist office also has excellent free maps for cyclists.