Porto
Wine, Tiles and Custard Tarts
Ribeira
Vila Nova de Gaia
Sights
Activities
Tours
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Porto
Opening up like a pop-up book from the Rio Douro at sunset, humble-yet-opulent Porto entices with its higgledy-piggledy medieval centre, divine food and wine, and charismatic locals. Porto’s charms are as subtle as the nuances of an aged tawny port, best savoured slowly on a romp through the hilly backstreets of Miragaia, Ribeira and Massarelos. It’s the quiet moments of reflection and the snapshots of daily life that you’ll remember most: the slosh of the Douro against the docks; the sound of wine glasses clinking. The city also has some of Portugal's top festivals and restaurants.
Porto in Two Days
Spend day one exploring the Ribeira's knot of alleyways, churches and palaces, including the Romanesque Sé, the Palácio da Bolsa and the Igreja de São Francisco. On day two take a culinary tour of the city and take in more of its architecture, azulejos spotting as you go. End the day at a pavement cafe on the Cais da Ribeira then dinner.
Porto in Four Days
Take your taste buds on day three across the Rio Douro to the Vila Nova de Gaia where you’ll discover many old port wine cellars, some still belonging to the original British merchant families who established them. Spend day four exploring some of Porto’s other superb attractions such as the exquisitely tiled São Bento Train Station and the waterfront.
Arriving in Porto
Francisco de Sá Carneiro Airport Linked to many European hubs.
Bus station There is no central bus station – bus companies arrive and depart from a variety of places throughout the city.
Campanhã train station 3km east of the city centre – handles long-distance trains.
São Bento train station Local train services.
Sleeping
Porto's sleeping scene has experienced an incredible renaissance in the last couple of years, due to the influx of weekend visitors arriving on low-cost flights. Time-worn residenciales (guest houses) are slowly being replaced, and hipsterish hostels, retro-cool guest houses and slickly modern apartments (look for the 'AL' sign) are now plentiful.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Wine, Tiles and Custard Tarts
The cultural trinity that intrigues every visitor to Portugal's second city is its unique wines, eye-catching tiles and addictive custard tarts.
Great For…
yDon't Miss
The exquisite azulejos at the city's São Bento train station.
8Need to Know
These three aspects of the city's culture can be found almost everywhere in the centre.
5Take a Break
The Confeitaria do Bolhão (
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Formosa 339; sweets €1-3, lunch menu €7.40; 
h6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat) is an authentic place to sample a pastel de nata (custard tart).
oTop Tip
There are themed tours focusing on Porto's azulejos run by eFun.
Wine
You can't say you've been to Porto until you've tasted the Douro's oak-barrel-aged nectar. Ever since the 17th century, lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia have been the nerve centre of port production. It was probably Roman soldiers who first planted grapes in the Douro Valley. According to legend, British merchants invented port when they added brandy to the wine to preserve it for shipment back to England. Something about the fortification of the wine and the time it spent in hot barrels at sea turned the wine into the wonderful beverage we know today. Madeira’s famous desert wine was 'accidentally' produced in the same way.
Wine Tasting
For an insightful primer on port, hook onto a tasting at Touriga or Vinologia, where the learned owners give an enlightening lesson with each glass they pour. Or sample fine ports by the glass at Prova. From here, head across the Douro to Vila Nova de Gaia, the steep banks of which are speckled with grand port wine lodges.
Pastel de Nata
Though native to Lisbon, Porto is as good a place as any to try the ubiquitous pastel de nata, often rather drearily translated into English as 'custard tart' which barely does this irresistible treat justice. Made with egg custard and cinnamon, baked in a cup of flaky pastry, once you've tried one you'll be hooked – many develop a 'one-a-day' habit throughout their time in Portugal. It doesn't help that they are so cheap as well – you'll have overpaid if you part with €1 for this most typical of Portuguese tooth-rotters. Porto’s cafes are, of course, brimming with other traditional cakes and pastries, ideal for a cheap and filling breakfast accompanied by a cup of smooth and frothy Portuguese coffee.
Azulejos
Azulejos greet you on almost every corner in Porto. One of the delights of taking a stroll through the centre is the tiles you will encounter. Old and new, utilitarian and decorative, plain and geometrically patterned. Some of the finest grace Porto's churches, but Porto's crowning azulejos glory is undoubtedly the resplendent São Bento Train Station, a veritable ode to tile art with over 20,000 azulejos adorning the station’s vestibule. Dating from 1905 to 1916, they are the romantic work of tile painter Jorge Colaço and depict scenes from Portugal’s history. Another of Colaço’s azulejos masterpieces in Porto is the façade of the Church of Saint Ildefonso (
GOOGLE MAP
; Praça da Batalha; h9am-noon & 3-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun).
TOP EXPERIENCE
Ribeira
Ribeira is Porto's biggest heart-stealer, its Unesco World Heritage maze of medieval alleys zigzag down to the Douro River. Exploring this postcard-perfect neighbourhood is a must for every visitor.
Great For…
yDon't Miss
Ponte de Dom Luís I – admire, photograph and walk across Porto's main bridge.
8Need to Know
The local metro stop is São Bento (yellow metro line D).
5Take a Break
Centrally located Mercearia das Flores is a delicatessen/food store serving Azores tea and light lunches.
oTop Tip
Take a barcos rabelos tour to see the sights of Ribeira and Vila Nova de Gaia from the water.
Churches & Palaces
Sitting on Praça Infante Dom Henrique, Igreja de São Francisco looks from the outside to be an austerely Gothic church, but inside it hides one of Portugal’s most dazzling displays of baroque finery. Hardly an inch escapes unsmothered, as otherworldly cherubs and sober monks are drowned by nearly 100kg of gold leaf. If you see only one church in Porto, make it this one.
Porto's Sé is a hulking, hilltop fortress of the cathedral, founded in the 12th century though largely rebuilt a century later and extensively altered during the 18th century. You can still make out the church’s Romanesque origins in the barrel-vaulted nave. Inside, a rose window and a 14th-century Gothic cloister also remain from its early days.
The splendid neoclassical Palácio da Bolsa honours Porto’s past and present money merchants. Just past the entrance is the glass-domed Pátio das Nações (Hall of Nations), where the exchange once operated. But this pales in comparison with rooms deeper inside; to visit these, join one of the half-hour guided tours (every 30 minutes).
Ponte de Dom Luís I
Completed in 1886 by a student of Gustave Eiffel, this bridge’s ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) top deck is now reserved for pedestrians, as well as one of the city’s metro lines; the lower deck bears regular traffic, as well as narrow walkways for those on foot. The views of the river and Old Town are simply stunning, as are the daredevils who leap from the lower level. The bridge's construction was significant, as the area’s foot traffic once navigated a bridge made from old port boats lashed together. To make matters worse, the river was wild back then, with no upstream dams.
Cais da Ribeira
This riverfront promenade ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is postcard Porto, taking in the whole spectacularsweep of the city, from Ribeira's pastel houses stacked like Lego bricks tothe barcos rabelos (flat-bottomed boats) once used to transport port from theDouro. Early evening buskers serenade crowds and chefs fire up grills in thehole-in-the-wall fish restaurants and tascas (taverns) in the old arcades.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Vila Nova de Gaia
Vila Nova de Gaia (simply 'Gaia' to locals) takes you back to the 17th-century beginnings of port-wine production, when British merchants transformed wine into the post-dinner tipple of choice.
Great For…
yDon't Miss
A tasting session at Graham's, Porto's finest port-wine lodge.
8Need to Know
Metro line D runs through the Jardim do Morro stop.
5Take a Break
Dovrvm (
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%220 917 910; Avenida Diogo Leite 454; mains €8-12; hnoon-11pm) is a cosy bistro literally a stone's throw from the Ponte Dom Luís I
oTop Tip
For a less touristy feel, head higher up the hill to Graham's, Taylor's and Croft.
Wine Lodges
One of the main reasons to head to Porto is to sample port-wine, and the place to do this is Gaia. A good place to start is the Espaço Porto Cruz (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.myportocruz.com; Largo Miguel Bombarda 23; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun), a swanky emporium inside a restored 18th-century riverside building which celebrates all things port. In addition to a shop where tastings are held (€7.50 for three ports), there are exhibition halls, a rooftop terrace with panoramic views and a restaurant. Graham's (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %223 776 484; www.grahams-port.com; Rua do Agro 141; tours incl tasting €10-100; h9.30am-6pm) is one of the original British-founded Gaia wine cellars, established way back in 1820. The complex has been totally revamped and now features a small museum. It's a big name and a popular choice for tours (30 minutes) dip into atmospheric barrel-lined cellars and conclude with a tasting of three to eight port wines. British-run Taylor’s (
GOOGLE MAP
; %223 772 956, 223 742 800; www.taylor.pt; Rua do Choupelo 250; tours incl tasting €12; h10am-6pm) boasts lovely, oh-so-English grounds with tremendous views of Porto. Its one-hour tours include a tasting of three top-of-the-range port wines. Its cellars are simply staggering, piled to the rafters with huge barrels, including the big one containing 100,000L of late bottled vintage. Croft (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.croftport.com; Rua Barão de Forrester 412; tours incl tasting €7; h10am-6pm) and Cálem (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %223 746 660; www.calem.pt; Avenida Diogo Leite 344; tours incl tasting €6; h10am-7pm May-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Apr) are other recommended places.
Teleférico de Gaia & Jardim do Morro
Don't miss a ride on the Teleférico de Gaia (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.gaiacablecar.com; one-way/return €5/8; h10am-8pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar), an aerial gondola that provides fine views over the Douro and Porto on its short, five-minute jaunt. It runs between the southern end of the Ponte de Dom Luís I and the riverside between 10am and 8pm (to 6pm October to March). At the bridge end of the teleférico is a hilltop park called the Jardim do Morro, which can also be reached by crossing the upper level of Ponte de Dom Luís I. Shaded by palms, these gardens are all about the view. From here, Porto is reduced to postcard format, with the pastel-hued houses of Ribeira on the opposite side of the Douro and the snaking river below.
Mosteiro da Serra de Pilar
Watching over Gaia is this 17th-century hilltop monastery (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rampa do Infante Santo; adult/child €3/1; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar), with its striking circular cloister, church with gilded altar, and stellar river views. Requisitioned by the future Duke of Wellington during the Peninsular War (1807–14), it still belongs to the Portuguese military and can only be visited on the 40-minute guided tours leaving hourly between 10.30am and 12.30pm and 2.30pm and 5.30pm.
1Sights
With the exception of the blockbuster Museu de Arte Contemporânea, Porto’s must-sees cluster in the compact centre and are easily walkable. Many of the big-hitters huddle in the Unesco-listed Ribeira district and Aliados, while hilltop Miragaia has some peaceful pockets of greenery and knockout views. For port-wine lodges aplenty, cross the river to Gaia.
Central Porto
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
7Shopping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1Ribeira
SéCathedral
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Terreiro da Sé; cloisters adult/student €3/2; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar)
From Praça da Ribeira rises a tangle of medieval alleys and stairways that eventually reach the hulking, hilltop fortress of the cathedral. Founded in the 12th century, it was largely rebuilt a century later and then extensively altered during the 18th century. However, you can still make out the church’s Romanesque origins in the barrel-vaulted nave. Inside, a rose window and a 14th-century Gothic cloister also remain from its early days.
History lends the cathedral gravitas – this is where King John I married his beloved Philippa of Lancaster in 1387, and where Prince Henry the Navigator was baptised in 1394, the fortune of far-flung lands but a distant dream.
Palácio da BolsaHistoric Building
(Stock Exchange;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.palaciodabolsa.com; Rua Ferreira Borges; tours adult/child €8/4.50; h9am-6.30pm Apr-Oct, 9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Nov-Mar)
This splendid neoclassical monument (built from 1842 to 1910) honours Porto’s past and present money merchants. Just past the entrance is the glass-domed Pátio das Nações (Hall of Nations), where the exchange once operated. But this pales in comparison with rooms deeper inside; to visit these, join one of the half-hour guided tours, which set off every 30 minutes.
The highlight is a stupendous ballroom known as the Salão Árabe (Arabian Hall), with stucco walls that have been teased into complex Moorish designs, then gilded with some 18kg of gold.
Igreja de São FranciscoChurch
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Praça Infante Dom Henrique; adult/child €4/2; h9am-8pm Jul-Sep, to 7pm Mar-Jun & Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb)
Sitting on Praça Infante Dom Henrique, Igreja de São Francisco looks from the outside to be an austerely Gothic church, but inside it hides one of Portugal’s most dazzling displays of baroque finery. Hardly a centimetre escapes unsmothered, as otherworldly cherubs and sober monks are drowned by nearly 100kg of gold leaf. If you see only one church in Porto, make it this one.
High on your list should be the nave, interwoven with vines and curlicues, dripping with cherubs and shot through with gold leaf. Peel back the layers to find standouts such as the Manueline-style Chapel of St John the Baptist, the 13th-century statue of St Francis of Assisi and the 18th-century Tree of Jesse, a polychrome marvel of an altarpiece. The church museum harbours a fine, well-edited collection of sacred art.
In the eerily atmospheric catacombs, the great and the good of Porto were once buried. Look out for sculptural works by Italian master Nicolau Nasoni and prolific Portuguese sculptor António Teixeira Lopes.
Museu da Misericórdia do PortoChurch, Museum
((MMIPO);
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mmipo.pt; Rua das Flores 5; adult/child €5/2.50; h10am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar)
All hail Porto’s newly reopened Museu da Misericórdia do Porto, which harmoniously unites cutting-edge architecture, a prized collection of 15th- to 17th-century sacred art and portraiture, and one of Ribeira’s finest churches, Igreja da Misericórdia. Bearing the hallmark of Italian baroque architect Nicolau Nasoni, the church's interior is adorned with blue-and-white azulejos. The museum’s biggest stunner is the large-scale Flemish Renaissance painting, Fons Vitae (Fountain of Life), depicting Dom Manuel I and family around a fountain of blood from the crucified Christ.
The museum centres on a sky-lit atrium, and a visit begins on the 3rd floor, gradually working down to the church (be sure to get a photogenic glimpse of it from the gallery). It showcases an impressive stash of religious art, most of which has ties to the Santa Casa da Misericórdia (Holy House of Our Lady of Mercy), founded in 1499 by order of King Manuel I. This charitable organisation cared for the infirm, sick and poor for 500 years. On display are portraits of its benefactors, lab equipment (including electroshock apparatus to treat psychiatric disorders), and the treasures it amassed over centuries – sculpture, glass- and silverware, liturgical vestments etc.
The ultimate tribute to this old-meets-new medley is Portuguese artist Rui Chafes' eye-catching, curvaceous iron sculpture My Blood is Your Blood (2015), which hooks through the building to the facade.
Casa do InfanteHistoric Building
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Alfândega 10; adult/child €2.20/free; h9.30am-1pm & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun)
Just back from the river is this handsomely renovated medieval townhouse where, according to legend, Henry the Navigator was born in 1394. The building later served as Porto’s first customs house. Today it boasts three floors of exhibits. In 2002 the complex was excavated, revealing Roman foundations and some remarkable mosaics – all of which are now on display.
Jardim do Infante Dom HenriqueGardens
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua Ferreira Borges)
Presided over by the late 19th-century market hall Mercado Ferreira Borges and neoclassical Palácio da Bolsa, these gardens are named after the centrepiece statue. Lifted high on a pedestal, the monument depicts Prince Henry the Navigator (1394–1460) – a catalyst in the Age of Discoveries and pioneer of the caravel, who braved the battering Atlantic in search of colonies for Portugal's collection.
Museu das MarionetasMuseum
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.marionetasdoporto.pt; Rua das Flores 22; €2; h11am-1pm & 2-6pm; 
c)
Porto's marionette museum turns the spotlight on the remarkable puppet creations that have taken to the stage at the Teatro Marionetas do Porto (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %222 089 175; www.marionetasdoporto.pt; Rua de Belmonte 57) over the past 25 years. Rotating exhibitions present marionettes from productions such as Macbeth, Faust and Cinderella.
1Vila Nova de Gaia
Jardim do MorroGardens
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida da República)
The cable car swings up to this hilltop park, which can also be reached by crossing the upper level of Ponte Dom Luís I. Shaded by palms, these gardens are all about the view. From here, Porto is reduced to postcard format, with the pastel-hued houses of Ribeira on the opposite side of the Douro and the snaking river below.
1Aliados & Bolhão
São Bento Train StationHistoric Building
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Praça Almeida Garrett; h5am-1am)
One of the world's most beautiful train stations, beaux arts São Bento wings you back to a more graceful age of rail travel. Completed in 1903, it seems to have been imported from 19th-century Paris with its mansard roof. But the dramatic azulejo panels of historic scenes in the front hall are the real attraction. Designed by Jorge Colaço in 1930, some 20,000 tiles depict historic battles (including Henry the Navigator's conquest of Ceuta), as well as the history of transport.
Mercado do BolhãoMarket
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Formosa; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
The 19th-century, wrought-iron Mercado do Bolhão does a brisk trade in fresh produce, including cheeses, olives, smoked meats, sausages, breads and more. At its lively best on Friday and Saturday mornings, the market is also sprinkled with inexpensive stalls where you can eat fish so fresh it was probably swimming in the Atlantic that morning, or taste or sample local wines and cheeses.
Torre dos ClérigosTower
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.torredosclerigos.pt; Rua de São Filipe de Nery; €3; h9am-7pm)
Sticking out on Porto's skyline like a sore thumb – albeit a beautiful baroque one – this 76m-high tower was designed by Italian-born baroque master Nicolau Nasoni in the mid-1700s. Climb its 225-step spiral staircase for phenomenal views over Porto's tiled rooftops, spires and the curve of the Douro to the port wine lodges in Gaia. It also harbours an exhibition that chronicles the history of the tower's architects and residents.
Capela das AlmasChurch
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Santa Catarina 428; h7.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Mon, Tue & Sat, 7.30am-7pm Wed-Fri, 7.30am-1pm & 6-7pm Sun)
On Rua Santa Catarina stands the strikingly ornate, azulejo-clad Capela das Almas. Magnificent panels here depict scenes from the lives of various saints, including the death of St Francis and the martyrdom of St Catherine. Interestingly, Eduardo Leite painted the tiles in a classic 18th-century style, though they actually date back only to the early 20th century.
Livraria LelloHistoric Building
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua das Carmelitas 144; €3; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)
Ostensibly a bookshop, but even if you’re not after books, don’t miss this exquisite 1906 neo-Gothic confection, with its lavishly carved plaster resembling wood and stained-glass skylight. Feels magical? Its intricately wrought, curiously twisting staircase was supposedly the inspiration for the one in the Harry Potter books, which JK Rowling partly wrote in Porto while working here as an English teacher from 1991 to 1993.
1Boavista
Mercado Bom SucessoMarket
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mercadobomsucesso.com; Praça Bom Sucesso; h10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
For a snapshot of local life and a bite to eat, nip into Boavista's revamped Mercado Bom Sucesso. A complete architectural overhaul has brought this late 1940s market hall bang up to date. Now bright, modern and flooded with daylight, the striking curved edifice harbours a fresh produce market, a food court, cafes and the slick design hotel, Hotel da Música.
The fresh produce market does a brisk trade in fish and shellfish, meat, fruit and vegetables and flowers from 10am to 8pm Monday to Saturday.
Gastronomes are in their element in the food court, which is perfect grazing territory, with stands selling everything from fresh sushi to piadine (Italian flat-bread sandwiches), tapas, ice cream and Portuguese sparkling wine. The Traveller Café is a good pit-stop for freshly pressed juices and smoothies or coffee and pastries. If you're looking for edible gifts to take home, stop by Sabores e Tradição, which stocks gourmet products from the Trás-os-Montes, such as cheese, olive oil and honey.
The market also has a cultural slant, with events from live music to free monthly workshops (in Portuguese) ranging from cookery demos to gardening for kids.
1Foz do Douro & Serralves
SerralvesMuseum
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.serralves.pt; Rua Dom João de Castro 210; adult/child museums & park €10/free, park only €5/free, 10am-1pm 1st Sun of the month free; h10am-7pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, reduced hours Oct-Mar)
This fabulous cultural institution combines a museum, a mansion and extensive gardens. Cutting-edge exhibitions, along with a fine permanent collection featuring works from the late 1960s to the present, are showcased in the Museu de Arte Contemporânea, an arrestingly minimalist, whitewashed space designed by the eminent Porto-based architect Álvaro Siza Vieira. The delightful, pink Casa de Serralves is a prime example of art deco, bearing the imprint of French architect Charles Siclis. One ticket gets you into both museums.
The museums sit within the marvellous 18-hectare Parque de Serralves. Lily ponds, rose gardens, formal fountains and whimsical touches – such as a bright-red sculpture of oversized pruning shears – make for a bucolic outing in the city. The estate is located 6km west of the city centre; take bus 201 from in front of Praça Dom João I, one block east of Av dos Aliados.
Jardim do Passeio AlegreGardens
( GOOGLE MAP ; Rua Passeio Alegre)
A joy for the aimless ambler, this 19th-century garden is flanked by graceful old buildings and dotted with willowy palms, sculptures, fountains and a bandstand that occasionally stages concerts in summer. Listen to the crash of the ocean as you wander its tree-canopied avenues. There's also crazy golf for the kids.
Parque da CidadePark
( GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida da Boavista)
The hum of traffic on the Avenida da Boavista soon fades as you enter the serene, green Parque da Cidade, Portugal's largest urban park. Laced with 10km of walking and cycling trails, this is where locals come to unplug and recharge, picnic (especially at weekends), play ball, jog, cycle, lounge in the sun and feed the ducks on the lake.
1Masserelos
Jardim do Palácio de CristalGardens
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Dom Manuel II; h8am-9pm Apr-Sep, to 7pm Oct-Mar)
Sitting atop a bluff, this gorgeous botanical garden is one of Porto's best-loved escapes, with lawns interwoven with sun-dappled paths and dotted with fountains, sculptures, giant magnolias, camellias, cypress and olive trees. It's actually a mosaic of small gardens that open up little by little as you wander – as do the stunning views of the city and Douro River.
The park is also home to a domed sports pavilion, the hi-tech Biblioteca Municipal Almeida Garrett (
GOOGLE MAP
; Jardim do Palácio de Cristal; h2-6pm Mon, 10am-6pm Tue-Sat; 
W) and the Museu Romântico (Quinta da Macieirinha;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Entre Quintas 220; adult/child €2.20/free, Sat & Sun free; h10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Sun).
Museu do Vinho do PortoMuseum
(Port Wine Museum;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua de Monchique 45; adult/child €2.20/free, Sat & Sun free; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Sun)
Down by the river in a remodelled warehouse, this modest museum traces the history of wine- and port-making with an informative short film, models and exhibits, though it doesn’t offer much insight into the wine itself.
Museu do Carro EléctricoMuseum
(Tram Museum;
GOOGLE MAP
; www.museudocarroelectrico.pt; Alameda Basílio Teles 51; adult/child €8/4; h2-6pm Mon, 10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in an antiquated switching-house, this museum is a tram-spotter's delight. It displays dozens of beautifully restored old trams – from early 1870s models once pulled by mules to streamlined, bee-yellow 1930s numbers.
1Miragaia
Museu Nacional Soares dos ReisMuseum
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.museusoaresdosreis.pt; Rua Dom Manuel II 44; adult/child €5/free,1st Sun of the month free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Porto's best art museum presents a stellar collection ranging from Neolithic carvings to Portugal’s take on modernism, all housed in the formidable Palácio das Carrancas.
Requisitioned by Napoleonic invaders, the neoclassical palace was abandoned so rapidly that the future Duke of Wellington found an unfinished banquet in the dining hall. Transformed into a museum of fine and decorative arts in 1940, its best works date from the 19th century, including sculptures by António Teixeira Lopes and António Soares dos Reis – seek out his famous O Desterrado (The Exile), and the naturalistic paintings of Henrique Pousão and António Silva Porto.
Rua de São Bento da VitóriaArea
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
With its cobblestones polished smooth by centuries of shoe leather and pretty tiled houses with little wrought-iron balconies and window boxes brimming with pot plants, this narrow, gently curving street was the beating heart of Jewish Porto in late medieval times. Keep your eyes peeled for telltale sights of Jewish heritage, such as bronze Hamsa (protective hand) door knockers.
Igreja das CarmelitasChurch
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua do Carmo; h7.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.45pm Sat & Sun)
Blink and you might miss that this is a church in its own right, snuggled as close as it is to the Igreja do Carmo. The twin churches are separated only by a 1m-wide house, once the dividing line between the monks of Carmo and the Carmelite nuns. Dating to the 17th century, its modest classical facade belies its lavishly gilded nave.
Miradouro da VitóriaViewpoint
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua São Bento da Vitória)
Porto is reduced to postcard format at this miradouro (viewpoint), perched high and mighty above a mosaic of terracotta rooftops that tumble down to the Douro. It's a highly atmospheric spot at dusk when landmarks such as the Ponte Dom Luís I bridge are illuminated and the lights on Vila Nova de Gaia's wine lodges flick on one by one.
2Activities
Taste Porto Food ToursTours
(%967 258 750; www.tasteportofoodtours.com; food tour adult/child €59/39; hfood tours 10am, 10.30am & 4pm Tue-Sat)
Loosen a belt notch for these superb half-day food tours, where you'll sample everything from Porto's best slow-roast-pork sandwich to éclairs, fine wines, cheese and coffee. Friendly, knowledgeable André and his team lead these indulgent 3½-hour walking tours, which take in viewpoints, historic back lanes and the Mercado do Bolhão en route to restaurants, grocery stores and cafes.
Taste Porto have branched out recently to offer other experiences that immerse you fully in Porto's growing food scene. Among them are the fun, hands-on cookery classes (€79) at Rosa Et Al Townhouse (
GOOGLE MAP
; %916 000 081; www.rosaetal.pt; Rua do Rosário 233; ste €118-228; W), where you'll whip up a three-course, all-Portuguese feast with Patricia before getting to sample what you've prepared with some top wines (and of course taking home some recipes to perfect at your leisure); see the website for class details.
The 1½-hour olive-oil tastings (€29; 11.30am Monday to Saturday) at Oliva & Co will give you an entirely new appreciation of olive oil, and how it can be used to enhance food flavours, and provide great insight into the country's six DOP (PDO; Protected Designation of Origin) regions producing the finest extra-virgin varieties.
BarcadouroBoating
(
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; %223 722 415; www.barcadouro.pt; Avenida Ramos Pinto 240, Cais de Gaia)
Barcadouro runs cruises along the river to the Douro Valley (conditions permitting), including a round trip to Régua (€77.50), departing Porto at 8am and returning at 6.50pm. It's a wonderfully relaxed way to take in the steeply terraced vineyards from the water.
Douro AzulBoating
(
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; %223 402 500; www.douroazul.com; 6-bridges cruise adult/child €10/5; h9.30am-6.30pm)
Douro Azul is the largest of several outfits that offer cruises in ersatz barcos rabelos, the colourful boats that were once used to transport port wine from the vineyards. Cruises last 45 to 55 minutes and depart at least hourly on summer days. You can board at Cais de Ribeira, or across the river at Cais de Gaia.
Porto WalkersWalking
(
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; %918 291 519; www.portowalkers.pt; Praça da Liberdade, Avenida dos Aliados)
Peppered with anecdotes and personality, these young and fun guided walking tours are a great intro to Porto, starting at 10.45am and 3.30pm daily. The tours are free (well, the guides work for tips, so give what you can). Simply turn up at the meeting point on Praça da Liberdade and look out for the guide in the red T-shirt.
The company also runs a number of other themed walks, including a four-hour port-wine tour (€18), which begins at 3pm every day except Monday next to Ponte de Dom Luís I, and a daily pub crawl, which begins at 11pm on Praça dos Leões.
KopkeWine
(
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; %223 746 660; www.sogevinus.com; Avenida Diogo Leite 312; tastings by the glass from €2; h10am-7pm May-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Apr)
Founded in 1638, Kopke is the oldest brand on the hill, but its lodge is not open to the public, which is why you should stop here for the smooth caramelised bite of a seriously good aged tawny. The 10-year is tasty; the 20-year is spectacular. Port-wine tastings can be matched with Arcádia chocolates or organic olive oil.
SogevinusWine
(
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; %223 746 660; www.sogevinus.com; Av Ramos Pinto 280; tastings by the glass €1.30-22.50; h10am-7pm May-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Apr)
Sogevinus is the port-wine holding company that owns the Kopke, Cálem, Barros, Gilberts and Burmester labels. This shop stocks a wide array of its ports, around 30 of which can be tasted by the glass.
Ramos PintoWine
(
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; %936 809 283; www.ramospinto.pt; Av Ramos Pinto 400; tours incl tasting €6; h10am-6pm May-Oct, reduced hours Nov-Apr)
Right on the riverfront, you can visit the rather grand Ramos Pinto and take a look at its historic offices and ageing cellars. The basic 40-minute tour includes a visit to the museum plus a two-port tasting of a white and tawny. Tours are offered in several languages.
Quinta do NovalWine
(
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; %223 770 282; www.quintadonoval.com; Avenida Diogo Leite 256; tastings by the glass €2.50-25; h10.30am-7.30pm Jun-Sep, 10am-5.30pm Oct-May)
Dating back to 1715, Quinta do Noval is one of Porto's most historic cellars, with its ports and wines hailing from the vineyards on a small estate in the Douro Valley.
Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do PortoWine
(
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; www.ivdp.pt; Rua Ferreira Borges 27; wine tasting €5; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri)
When area vintners apply for the certification that ultimately christens their casks with the term ‘Port’, they bring vials to the labs set in this attractive relic just uphill from the river. The labs are off-limits to visitors, but you’re welcome to explore the lobby exhibits, and the attached wine shop offers tastings.
ViniPortugalWine
(
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; www.viniportugal.pt/ogivalrooms; Palácio da Bolsa, Rua Ferreira Borges; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat)
Housed in the grand Palácio da Bolsa, ViniPortugal's tasting room is the perfect way to brush up on your knowledge of Portuguese wines (including those produced in the nearby Douro). An enocard costing €2 is your ticket to tasting two to four wines from a selection of 12 chosen from different regions of the country. The friendly, clued-up staff will talk you through them.
Festa de São João
In the sweet heat of midsummer, Porto pulls out all the stops, the bunting and the plastic hammers for one of Europe’s wildest street parties – the Festa de São João, celebrated in riotous style on 23 and 24 June. If ever the full force of love is going to hit you when you least expect it, it’s going to be here – one of the festival’s unique traditions is to thwack whomever you fancy over the head with a squeaky plastic hammer (martelo), though purists swear by floppy leeks and smelly garlic plants.
As you might expect, these head-spinning attacks of amor cause much flirtatious giggling, squealing and chasing in the maze of medieval lanes that spills down to the riverfront. Though the exact origins of the festa are veiled in mystery, tripeiros (Porto residents) will tell you that it is rooted in pagan festivals to celebrate the summer solstice and bountiful harvests. Bountiful certainly sums up the streets on 23 June, which teem with hammer-wielding locals of all ages, scoffing grilled sardines, drinking vinho, dancing like there is no tomorrow and letting Chinese lanterns drift into the night sky.
TTours
eFun GPS ToursTours
(
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; %220 923 270; www.efungpstours.com; Rua Cândido dos Reis 55)
One of the most fun and ecofriendly ways to zip about town is in a nippy Renault Twizy with efun GPS tours on itineraries such as the 1½-hour By the River tour (€38), taking in riverfront attractions from Ponte da Arrábida to the fishing village of Afurada.
The 1½-hour Secret Streets tour (€38) rambles through the historic centre, the 2½-hour Essential tour (€51) takes in both sides of the river, while the 3½-hour Full Experience tour (€63) goes all the way to the Atlantic and Foz do Douro. All tours include a cellar visit. The company also arranges three- to four-hour walking tours, from a romp of the historic centre (€19) to a tapas and port-wine tour and azulejos tour, both €29.
Other SideTours
(
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; %916 500 170; www.theotherside.pt; Rua Souto 67; h9am-8pm)
Well-informed, congenial guides reveal their city on half-day walking tours of hidden Porto (€19), petisco (tapas) trails (€25), and e-bike tours of Porto and Foz (€29). They also venture further afield with full-day trips to the Douro's vineyards (€85) and to Guimarães and Braga (€69).
Be My GuestWalking
(%938 417 850; www.bemyguestinporto.com; 3hr tours €20)
To get better acquainted with Porto, sign up for one of Be My Guest's terrific themed walking tours of the city, skipping from an insider’s peek at azulejos to belle époque architecture. Run by a passionate trio of guides – Nuno, Sabina and Fred – it also arranges four-hour cookery workshops (€30) and wine-tasting tours (€25). Meeting points vary.
Living ToursTours
(
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; %228 320 992; www.livingtours.pt; Rua Mouzinho da Silveira 352-4; h9am-8pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar)
A great range of sightseeing options are on offer at this friendly agency, from half-day city tours (€35) to fado tours with dinner (€65) and day trips to the Douro and Minho (€95).
Blue Dragon ToursTours
(
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; %222 022 375; www.bluedragon.pt; Avenida Gustavo Eiffel 280; tours from €15)
This reputable outfit runs classic three-hour bike tours (from €15), which begin on Avenida dos Aliados and take in major sights such as the Sé and Mercado do Bolhão. It also offers several half-day walking tours, including Jewish Porto (from €15) and a foodie tour (from €39), as well as three-hour Segway tours (from €55). Prices depend on group sizes.
7Shopping
Besides the bog-standard Portuguese souvenirs – cork, cockerels, you name it – the best thing you can possibly take home from Gaia is port wine. Stock up at one of its excellent garrafeiras (wine shops) or lodges. Many can arrange shipping for larger orders.
ArmazémCrafts, Vintage
(
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; Rua da Miragaia 93; h11.30am-8pm)
Bang on trend with Porto’s thirst for new creative spaces is the hipsterish Armazém, located in a converted warehouse down by the river. A gallery, cafe and store all under one roof, with an open fire burning at its centre, it sells a pinch of everything – vintage garb, antiques, vinyl, artwork, ceramics and funky Portuguese-designed Mexxca bags and fashion.
TradiçõesGifts & Souvenirs
(
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; Rua das Flores 238; h10am-7pm)
For Portuguese souvenirs, Tradições is the real deal. In this sweet, friendly shop, the owner knows the story behind every item – from bags beautifully fashioned from Alentejo cork to Algarvian flôr de sal (hand-harvested sea salt), Lousã honey to Lazuli azulejos.
Oliva & CoFood
(
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; www.olivaeco.com; Rua Ferreira Borges 60; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 8pm Sat)
Everything you ever wanted to know about Portuguese olive oil becomes clear at this experiential store, which maps out the country's six PDO regions producing the extra-virgin stuff. Besides superb oils and olives, you'll find biscuits, chocolate and soaps made with olive oil. Try before you buy or join one of the in-depth tastings in collaboration with Taste Porto.
43 BrancoArts & Crafts
(
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; Rua das Flores 43; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)
One-of-a-kind Portuguese crafts, fashion and interior design take centre stage at this new concept store, which brings a breath of fresh creativity to Rua das Flores. Here you'll find everything from filigree, gem-studded Maria Branco jewellery to funky sardine pencil cases, Porto-inspired Lubo T-shirts and beautifully packaged Bonjardim soaps.
A Pérola Do BolhãoFood & Drinks
(
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; Rua Formosa 279; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
Founded in 1917, this delicatessen sports Porto's most striking art nouveau facade and is stacked high with sausages and cheeses, olives, dried fruits and nuts, wine and port.
águas furtadasArts, Fashion
(
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; www.aguasfurtadasdesign.blogspot.co.uk; Rua de Miguel Bombarda 285; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun)
This boutique is a treasure-trove of funky Portuguese fashion, design, crafts and accessories, including born-again Barcelos cockerels in candy-bright colours and exquisitely illustrated pieces by influential Porto-based graphic designer Benedita Feijó.
Workshops Pop UpArts & Crafts
(
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; %966 974 119; www.workshops-popup.com; Rua do Almada 275; h1-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7.30pm Sat)
Bringing a new lease of life to a restored smithy, this store is the brainchild of Nuno and Rita. It harbours an eclectic mix of pop-ups selling everything from original ceramics to vintage fashion, accessories and prettily wrapped Bonjardim soaps. It also runs English-speaking cookery workshops (followed by a meal with wine) for €30, or €42 including a market visit.
TourigaWine
(
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; %225 108 435; Rua da Fábrica 32; h10am-1pm & 2.30-8pm Tue-Sat)
Run with passion and precision by David Ferreira, this fabulous wine shop is a trove of well- and lesser-known ports and wines – many from small producers. Stop by for a wine or port-wine tasting (€3 to €12) or book ahead for the incredibly informative port-wine class (€25). Shipping can be arranged.
Coração AlecrimArts & Crafts
(
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; www.coracaoalecrim.com; Travessa de Cedofeita 28; hnoon-8pm Mon-Sat)
'Green, indie, vintage' is the strapline of this enticing store, accessed through a striking doorway painted with woodland animals (crickets chirrup a welcome as you enter). It stocks high-quality handmade Portuguese products, from pure wool blankets and beanies to one-off azulejos, shell coasters and beautiful ceramics.
A Vida PortuguesaGifts & Souvenirs
(
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; www.avidaportuguesa.com; Rua Galeria de Paris 20; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)
This lovely store in an old fabric shop showcases a medley of stylishly repackaged vintage Portuguese products – classic toys, old-fashioned soaps and retro journals, plus those emblematic ceramic Bordallo Pinheiro andorinhas (swallows).
Porto Wine HouseFood & Drinks
(
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; www.portowinehouse.com; Rua Cândido dos Reis 4-10; h9am-7pm)
Stock up on fine whites, rubies and tawnies here, as well as conservas (tinned fish), preserves and other goodies. Ships worldwide.
Porto's Gardens, Parks & Viewpoints
Whether it’s the sparkle of the Rio Douro glimpsed from a perkily perched miradouro or a reviving stroll in a botanical garden, Porto effortlessly combines the urban and the outdoors.
Miradouro da Vitória See Porto spread scenically before you from this Jewish-quarter miradouro.
Jardim do Morro Slung high above the city in Gaia, these pretty gardens command stellar views of the historic centre.
Parque da Cidade Porto's urban escape is this mammoth lake-dotted park, complete with cycling and walking trails.
Jardim do Passeio Alegre Breathe in the pure Atlantic air as you saunter through these graceful 19th-century gardens.
Jardim Botânico do Porto (
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; www.jardimbotanico.up.pt; Rua do Campo Alegre 1191; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun) Green-fingered students tend these romantic and secluded botanical gardens.
Jardim das Virtudes (
MAP
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; Passeio das Virtudes; h9am-7pm) Sloping lawns ideal for picnicking and river gazing.
Jardim da Cordoaria ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua Campo dos Mártires da Pátria) Find leafy respite in this sculpture-strewn park.
Jardim do Palácio de Cristal Secret gardens, flowery parterres, pockets of woodland and drop-dead-gorgeous city views await.
5Eating
Porto’s food scene has gone through the roof in recent years. Hot at the moment are petiscos (small Portuguese plates, ideal for sharing), lazy weekend brunches, creative vegetarian buffet-style restaurants with bags of charm and imaginative riffs on hand-me-down recipes, and old-school taverns championing slow food. And don’t forget the temptation of local cafes and patisseries around nearly every corner.
YeatmanGastronomy€€€
(
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; %220 133 100; www.the-yeatman-hotel.com; Rua do Choupelo 88, Yeatman Hotel; tasting menus €90/145; h7.30-11pm)
With its polished service, elegant setting and dazzling views over river and city, the Michelin-starred restaurant at the five-star Yeatman hotel is sheer class. Chef Ricardo Costa puts his imaginative spin on seasonal ingredients from lobster to pheasant – all skilfully cooked, served with flair and expertly matched with wines from the 1000-bottle cellar that is among the country's best.
DOPGastronomy€€€
(
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; %222 014 313; www.ruipaula.com; Largo de São Domingos 18; menus €20-56; h7-11pm Mon, 12.30-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat; W)
Housed in the Palácio das Artes, DOP is one of Porto's most stylish addresses, with its high ceilings and slick, monochrome interior. Much-feted chef Rui Paula puts a creative, seasonal twist on outstanding ingredients, with dish after delicate, flavour-packed dish skipping from octopus carpaccio to cod with lobster rice. The three-course lunch is terrific value at €20.
Flor dos CongregadosPortuguese€€
(
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; %222 002 822; www.flordoscongregados.pt; Travessa dos Congregados 11; mains €8-16; h7-10pm Mon, 10am-10pm Tue-Sat)
Tucked away down a narrow alley, this softly lit, family-run restaurant brims with stone-walled, wood-beamed, art-slung nooks. The frequently changing blackboard menu goes with the seasons.
Everything from veal to sea bream is cooked and seasoned to a T. The must-try 'Terylene' slow-cooked marinated pork sandwich goes superbly with a glass of sparkling Tinto Bruto red.
Pedro LemosGastronomy€€€
(
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; %220 115 986; www.pedrolemos.net; Rua do Padre Luís Cabral 974; tasting menus €80-120; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun)
One of Porto's two Michelin-starred restaurants, Pedro Lemos is sheer delight. With a love of seasonally sourced produce and robust flavours, the eponymous chef creates culinary fireworks using first-class ingredients from land and sea – be it ultra-fresh Atlantic bivalves or Alentejano black pork cooked to smoky deliciousness with wild mushrooms. Choose between the subtly lit, cosy-chic dining room or the roof terrace.
Belos AiresArgentine€€
(
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; %223 195 661; www.facebook.com/belosairesrestaurante; Rua de Belomonte 104; mains €12-20; h8-11.30am & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W)
At the heart of this intimate part-Argentine, part-Portuguese restaurant is Mauricio, a chef with a big personality and an insatiable passion for his homeland, revealed as you watch him dashing around in the open kitchen. The market-fresh menu changes frequently, but you’ll always find superb steaks and to-die-for empanadas (savoury turnovers). Save an inch for the chocolate brownie with dulce de leche.
Mercearia das FloresDeli€
(
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; Rua das Flores 110; petiscos €2.50-7.50; h9am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat, 1-8pm Sun; W)
This rustic-chic delicatessen/food store serves all-day petiscos made with organic regional products on the three tables and two counters of its bright and airy interior. You can also order wines by the glass, tea from the Azores and locally brewed Sovina beer. Try the spicy sardines and salad on dark, sweet broa cornbread.
All In PortoPortuguese€€
(
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; %220 993 829; www.facebook.com/allinporto; Rua Arquitecto Nicolau Nasoni 17; petiscos €7-22; h10am-midnight)
Wine barrel tables, lanterns and funky Porto murals create a hip, laid-back space for sampling a stellar selection of Portuguese wines and nicely prepared petiscos. These range from flame-grilled chouriço (spicy sausage) to spicy sardine roe, cheeses and conservas (canned fish). Quiet enough for conversing, it's also a chilled spot to begin or end an evening over drinks.
BookPortuguese€€
(
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; %917 953 387; www.restaurantebook.pt; Rua de Aviz 10; mains €16-23; hnoon-3pm & 7.30pm-2am)
One of Porto's hottest tables, this place has a library theme and buzzes with a mix of well-heeled locals and tourists. The decor is a blend of industrial and classic, and dishes are modern takes on Portuguese mainstays, such as duck breast with sweet potato and port wine or creamy rice with prawns, lime and coriander. Service can be slow. Book ahead.
CamafeuModern Portuguese€€
(
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; %937 493 557; www.facebook.com/camafeu83; Praça de Carlos Alberto 83; mains €12-19; h6-11pm Tue-Thu, 6.30pm-midnight Fri & Sat; c)
Visiting Camafeu, which overlooks Praça Carlos Alberto, is like eating in a friend's stylish 1st-floor apartment. There's room for just a handful of lucky diners in the chandelier-lit salon, which boasts French windows, antique furnishings and a polished wooden floor. Dishes such as slow-cooked pork cheek with alheira (a light, garlicky sausage of poultry or game), hazelnut and mushroom crumble and green asparagus are prepared with love and served with flair.
Leitaria da Quinta do PaçoBakery, Cafe€
(
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; www.leitariadaquintadopaco.com; Praça Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 47; éclairs €1.10; h8.45am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat)
Since 1920, this cafe-patisserie has given a pinch of Paris to Porto with its delectable sweet and savoury éclairs, which are now justifiably famous. Sit in the slick interior or on the plaza terrace for a cimbalinho (espresso) and feather-light, cream-filled éclairs in flavours from classic lemon to the more unusual blue cheese, apple and fennel or chocolate and port wine.
Miss'OpoPortuguese€€
(
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; %222 082 179; www.missopo.com; Rua dos Caldeireiros 100; petiscos €2-9; h8pm-midnight Tue-Sun)
Don't miss dinner at this cool guest house in the maze of alleyways up from the Ribeira, with a stylishly rough-around-the-edges look and delicious small plates being churned out of the tiny kitchen. Reserve ahead, especially on weekends. There are six lovely apartments (up to three people €75 to €120, up to six people €145 to €200) upstairs, featuring blond wood and kitchenettes.
TapabentoTapas€€
(
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; %222 034 115, 912 881 272; www.tapabento.com; Rua da Madeira 222; tapas & sharing plates €4-16, mains €18-21; h7pm-midnight Tue, noon-midnight Wed-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
There’s a good buzz at split-level Tapabento, discreetly tucked behind São Bento train station. Stone walls, bright prints and cheek-by-jowl tables set the scene for outstanding tapas and Douro wines. Sharing is the way to go – be it fresh oysters with shallot vinaigrette, razor clams with garlic and coriander or Azores cheese with rocket and walnuts.
Save room for imaginative desserts such as peanut foam and chestnut mousse with saffron.
TascöPortuguese€€
(
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; %919 803 323, 222 010 763; www.soldoutarena.com; Rua do Almada 151A; petiscos €4.50-10.50; hnoon-1am)
Tascö's slick, banquette-lined interior is playfully peppered with personality in the form of a tree-shaped bookcase and a huge blackboard for scrawling messages. Super-friendly staff keep the good vibes and petiscos coming – lip-smacking little dishes of rojões (pork cooked in garlic, wine and cumin), morcela (black pudding), octopus, and the like, paired with craft beers, wines and ports.
Casa AgrícolaPortuguese€€€
(
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; www.casa-agricola.com; Rua do Bom Sucesso 241; mains €17-29; h12.30-3pm & 8-10.30pm Mon-Sat)
Abutting a chapel, this beautifully restored, 18th-century rural house is a splash of historic charm in an otherwise modern neighbourhood. The 1st-floor restaurant exudes old-world sophistication, with its polished-wood floor, bistro seating and chandeliers. It's an intimate choice for Portuguese flavours such as monkfish cataplana (stew). The more informal cafe-bar downstairs has a happy hour from 4pm to 8pm.
Casinha Boutique CaféCafe€
(
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; %934 021 001; www.casinhaboutique.com; Avenida da Boavista 854; mains €4.50-12; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; W)
All pretty pastel shades and hidden garden alcoves, this cafe lodged in a restored 19th-century townhouse is as cute as a button. The food impresses, too, with wholesome, locally sourced ingredients going into freshly prepared sandwiches, quiches, salads, crepes and totally divine desserts. There's also a deli for takeaway Portuguese olive oils, wines, preserves and more.
Cantinho do AvillezGastronomy€€
(
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; %223 227 879; www.cantinhodoavillez.pt; Rua Mouzinho da Silveira 166; mains €17-22.50; h12.30-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 12.30pm-midnight Sat & Sun)
Rock star chef José Avillez' latest venture is a welcome fixture on Porto's gastro scene. A bright, contemporary bistro with a retro spin, Cantinho keeps the mood casual and buzzy. On the menu are seasonal Portuguese dishes with a dash of imagination: from flaked bacalhau with melt-in-the-mouth 'exploding' olives to giant red shrimps from the Algarve with Thai spices.
Cantina 32Portuguese€€
(
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; %222 039 069; www.cantina32.com; Rua das Flores 32; petiscos €5-15; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm; W)
Industrial-chic meets boho at this delightfully laid-back haunt, with its walls of polished concrete, mismatched crockery, verdant plants, and vintage knick-knacks ranging from a bicycle to an old typewriter. The menu is just as informal – petiscos such as pica-pau steak (bite-sized pieces of steak in a garlic-white-wine sauce), quail egg croquettes, and cheesecake served in a flower pot reveal a pinch of creativity.
Da TerraVegetarian€
(
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; %223 199 257; www.daterra.pt; Rua Mouzinho da Silveira 249; buffet €9.90; hnoon-3.30pm & 7.30-11pm; 
v)
Porto's shift towards lighter, super-healthy food is reflected in the buffet served at Da Terra. This popular, contemporary bistro puts its own spin on vegetarian and vegan food – from creative salads to Thai-style veggies and tagines. It also does a fine line in fresh-pressed juices and desserts. The website posts details of upcoming workshops and cookery courses.
EssênciaVegetarian€
(
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; %228 301 813; www.essenciarestaurantevegetariano.com; Rua de Pedro Hispano 1190; 2-/3-course veg €7/9, nonveg €8/10; h12.30-3pm & 8-10.30pm Mon-Thu, 12.30-3pm & 8pm-midnight Fri & Sat; v)
This bright, modern brasserie is famous Porto-wide for its generous vegetarian (and nonvegetarian!) menus, stretching from wholesome soups and salads to curries, pasta dishes and feijoada (pork and bean casserole). There's a terrace for warm-weather dining.
CafeínaModern European€€
(
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; %226 108 059; www.cafeina.pt; Rua do Padrão 100; mains €17-19; h12.30-6pm & 7.30pm-12.30am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri & Sat; c)
Hidden coyly away from the seafront, Cafeína has a touch of class, with soft light casting a flattering glow across its moss-green walls, crisp tablecloths, lustrous wood floors and bookcases. The food is best described as modern European, simple as stuffed squid with saffron purée or rack of lamb in a herb and lemon crust, expertly matched with Portuguese wines.
Sardinha AlfândegaPortuguese€€
(
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; %931 724 508; www.facebook.com/sardinhadalfandega; Rua Sobre-o-Douro 1A; lunch €7.50, mains €8-14; hnoon-11pm)
Lodged in a wing of a former convent, this wood-floored restaurant keeps it contemporary with monochrome hues, mod lighting and blown-up food prints. Affording cracking views of the Douro, the terrace is a great spot for drinks before dinner. Fresh fish is the star of the menu, from crispy squid to fillet of Atlantic wreckfish.
A SandeiraSandwiches€
(
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; %223 216 471; Rua dos Caldeireiros 85; mains €4.50, lunch menu €5; h11am-3pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat; W)
Charming, boho-flavoured and lit by fairy lights, A Sandeira is a great bolt-hole for an inexpensive lunch. Chipper staff bring to the table creative salads such as smoked ham, rocket, avocado and walnuts, and Porto's best sandwiches (olive, feta, tomato and basil, for instance). The lunch menu including soup, a salad or sandwich, and a drink is a steal.
BUGO Art BurgersBurgers€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %226 062 179; www.bugo.com.pt; Rua Miguel Bombarda 598; burgers €7-13.50; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-4pm & 7.30pm-midnight Sat)
Spilling out onto gallery-lined Rua de Miguel Bombarda, this bright, happening bistro promises to elevate burgers to an art form. It delivers with brilliantly fresh burgers ranging from Black Angus, salmon or lentil options to oriental-style numbers – using mostly organic and free-range produce. The staff are chirpy, the mood is upbeat and the chocolate cake with berry coulis is divine.
Taberna de Santo AntónioPortuguese€
(
MAP
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; %222 055 306; Rua das Virtudes 32; mains €5-10; h8am-2am Tue-Fri, 9am-2am Sat & Sun)
This family-run tavern prides itself on serving up good honest Portuguese grub with a smile. It dishes up generous helpings of codfish, grilled sardines and cozido (meat and vegetable stew) to the lunchtime crowds. It's a friendly TV-and-tiles place in the traditional Portuguese mould, with pavement seating on warm days.
Marés Vivas
Over a weekend in mid-July, Afurada dusts off its party clothes to host the Marés Vivas, welcoming big rock and pop names to the stage. Headliners in recent years have included James Bay, Elton John, James, Tom Odell, Beth Orton and Foy Vance.
6Drinking & Nightlife
While Porto isn't going to steal the clubbing crown any time soon, tripeiros (Porto residents) love to get their groove on, especially in the Galerias, with its speakeasy-style bars and the party spilling out onto the streets. With just enough urban edge to keep the scene fresh-faced, a night out here can easily jump from indie clubs to refined rooftop bars.
ProvaWine Bar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.prova.com.pt; Rua Ferreira Borges 86; h4pm-2am Wed-Mon; W)
Diogo, the passionate owner, explains the finer nuances of Portuguese wine at this chic, stone-walled bar, where relaxed jazz plays. Stop by for a two-glass tasting (€5), or sample wines by the glass – including beefy Douros, full-bodied Dãos and crisp Alentejo whites. These marry well with sharing plates of local hams and cheeses (€14). Diogo's port tonics are legendary.
AduelaBar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua das Oliveiras 36; h3pm-2am Mon, 1pm-2am Tue-Sat, 2pm-midnight Sun)
Retro and hip but not self-consciously so, chilled Aduela bathes in the nostalgic orange glow of its glass lights, which illuminate the green walls and mishmash of vintage furnishings. Once a sewing machine warehouse, today it's where friends gather to converse over wine and appetising petiscos (€3 to €8).
Museu d’AvóBar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Travessa de Cedofeita 54; h8pm-4am Mon-Sat)
The name translates as 'Grandmother's Museum' and indeed it's a gorgeous rambling attic of a bar, crammed with cabinets, old clocks, azulejos and gramophones, with curios hanging from its rafters. Lanterns and candles illuminate young tripeiros locked in animated conversation as the house beats spin. If you get the late-night munchies, it also whips up tasty petiscos (€2 to €8).
Wine BoxWine Bar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.thewineboxporto.com; Rua dos Mercadores 72; h1.30pm-midnight Thu-Tue; W)
Wine cases turn the interior into quite a feature at this slinky, black-walled bar. The friendly staff will guide you through the 137 (at the last count) wines on the menu, most of which are available by the glass. They go nicely with tapas such as padrón peppers and clams in a herby sauce.
VinologiaWine Bar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.vinologia.pt; Rua de São João 28-30; h11am-midnight)
This cosy wine bar is an excellent place to sample the fine quaffs of Porto, with over 200 different ports on offer. If you fall in love with a certain wine, you can usually buy a whole bottle (or even send a case home).
Café MajesticCafe
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.cafemajestic.com; Rua Santa Catarina 112; h9.30am-midnight Mon-Sat)
Yes, we know, it's pricey and rammed with tourists brandishing selfie sticks, but you should at least have a drink at Café Majestic just so you can gawp at its beaux arts interior, awash with prancing cherubs, opulently gilded woodwork and gold-braided waiters. Skip the so-so food and just go for coffee. There's a pavement terrace for sunny-day people-watching.
Zenith Lounge BarLounge
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua de Serralves 124; h10am-2am Tue-Sat May-Oct; W)
All of Porto spreads photogenically at your feet from this uber-hip rooftop lounge, which perches on the 15th floor of the HF Ipanema Park. Centred on a pool, the strikingly lit lounge attracts a good-looking, cocktail-sipping crowd, with regular live music, guest DJs and party nights in summer.
WallBar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/thewallbar.baixa; Rua de Cândido dos Reis 90; h5pm-4am Mon-Sat, 9pm-4am Sun)
With backlit walls featuring a 3D cubist artwork of spirit bottles, high ceilings and a funky world map of names, the Wall has a dash of the urban sophisticate about it. Mingle with an effortlessly cool crowd enjoying the chilled DJ beats and expertly mixed cocktails (it boasts a mean mojito).
Pinguim CaféBar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.pinguimcafe.blogspot.co.uk; Rua de Belomonte 65; h9pm-4am Mon-Fri, 10pm-4am Sat & Sun)
A little bubble of bohemian warmth in the heart of Porto, Pinguim attracts an alternative crowd. Stone walls and dim light create a cosy, intimate backdrop for plays, film screenings, poetry readings, rotating exhibitions of local art, and G&T sipping. It's full to the rafters at weekends.
Rota do CháTeahouse
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.rotadocha.pt; Rua Miguel Bombarda 457; tea €2.50; h11am-8pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
This proudly bohemian cafe has a verdant but rustic back garden where students and the gallery crowd sit around low tables sampling from an enormous 300-plus tea menu divided by region. Tasty snacks include quiches, muffins, scones and toast. It also serves weekend brunches and weekday lunch specials (€7).
TerraplanaCafe
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Avenida Rodrigues de Freitas 287; h11am-midnight Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 5pm-midnight Sun)
Totally relaxed and cool without trying, Terraplana takes you through from late-morning coffee to evening cocktails (around €7.50 a pop). Granite and tiles set the backdrop for the house special, the Terraplana Cafe, with coffee liqueur, vodka and an espresso shot. Or try the Living Dead Margarita, with a ginger and chilli kick.
Era Uma Vez No ParisBar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Galeria de Paris 106; h11am-2am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
A little flicker of bohemian Parisian flair in the heart of Porto, Era Uma Vez No Paris time warps you back to the more decadent 1920s. Its ruby-red walls, retro furnishings and frilly lampshades spin a warm, intimate cocoon for coffee by day and drinks by night. DJs keep the mood mellow with indie rock and funk beats.
Café CandelabroCafe
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua da Conceição 3; h10.30am-2am Mon-Fri, 2pm-2am Sat, 2.30pm-midnight Sun)
Cool cafe-bar in a former bookstore, with a boho crowd and a retro vibe featuring black-and-white mosaic tile floors, bookcases with old books and magazines, and big windows opening out to the street. It gets busy, with blasting techno on weekend nights.
Café Au LaitBar
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/aulait.cafe; Rua Galeria de Paris 44; h9.30pm-4am Mon-Sat)
Housed in a former textile warehouse, this narrow, intimate bar now stitches together a lively and unpretentious artistic crowd. Beside cocktails, there are snacks and salads, including vegetarian grub. DJs and occasional gigs amp up the vibe and add to the good cheer.
3Entertainment
FC PortoFootball
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.fcporto.pt)
The Estádio do Dragão is home to Primeira Liga heroes FC Porto. It's northeast of the centre, just off the VCI ring road (metro stop Estádio do Dragão).
Casa da MúsicaConcert Venue
(House of Music;
GOOGLE MAP
; %220 120 220; www.casadamusica.com; Avenida da Boavista 604; hbox office 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)
Grand and minimalist, sophisticated yet populist, Porto's cultural behemoth boasts a shoebox-style concert hall at its heart, meticulously engineered to accommodate everything from jazz duets to Beethoven's Ninth.
The hall holds concerts most nights of the year, from classical and blues to fado and electronica, with occasional summer concerts staged outdoors in the adjoining plaza.
Restaurante O FadoFado
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %222 026 937; www.ofado.com; Largo de São João Novo 16; h8.30pm-1am Mon-Sat)
Porto has no fado tradition of its own, but you can enjoy the Lisbon or Coimbra version of ‘Portugal blues’ into the wee hours at Restaurante O Fado. It's a tad touristy, but the fado is good. Mains will set you back €23.50 to €30.
Hot Five Jazz & Blues ClubJazz
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %934 328 583; www.hotfive.pt; Largo Actor Dias 51; h10pm-3am Wed-Sat)
True to its name, this spot hosts live jazz and blues as well as the occasional acoustic, folk or all-out jam session. It’s a modern but intimate space, with seating at small round tables, both fronting the stage and on an upper balcony. Concerts often start later than scheduled.
Teatro Municipal RivoliTheatre
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %223 392 200; www.teatromunicipaldoporto.pt; Praça Dom João I; c)
This art deco theatre is one of the linchpins of Porto's evolving cultural scene. It traverses the whole spectrum from theatre to music, contemporary circus, cinema, dance and marionette productions.
Boavista FCFootball
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.boavistafc.pt; Rua 1º de Janeiro, Estádio do Bessa Século)
FC Porto's worthy cross-town rival, Boavista FC's home turf is the Estádio do Bessa, which lies just off Avenida da Boavista. Check the local editions of Jornal de Notícias for upcoming matches.
Maus HábitosPerforming Arts
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.maushabitos.com; 4th fl, Rua Passos Manuel 178; hnoon-midnight Tue & Sun, to 2am Wed & Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)
Maus Hábitos or 'Bad Habits' is an arty, nicely chilled haunt hosting a culturally ambitious agenda. Changing exhibitions and imaginative installations adorn the walls, while live bands and DJs work the small stage.
Fado in PortoFado
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.calem.pt; Avenida Diogo Leite 344; €17.50; h6.30pm Tue-Sun)
Lisbon and Coimbra may be the spiritual home of fado, Portugal's unique brand of melancholic folk music with guitar accompaniment, but you'll find decent performances over a glass of port or two at the Cálem cellars every evening.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Situated around 19km northwest of the city centre, the gleaming, ultra-modern Francisco de Sá Carneiro Airport (%229 432 400; 4470-558 Maia) operates direct flights to major international hubs including London, Brussels, Madrid, Frankfurt and Toronto.
TAP (www.flytap.com) has multiple daily flights to/from Lisbon. There are also low-cost carriers, such as easyJet (www.easyjet.com) and Ryanair (www.ryanair.com), with nonstop services to London, Madrid, Paris, Frankfurt, Amsterdam and Brussels.
Bus
As in many Portuguese cities, bus services in Porto are regrettably dispersed, with no central bus terminal. The good news is that there are frequent services to just about everywhere in northern Portugal, as well as express services to Coimbra, Lisbon and points south.
Renex ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.renex.pt; Rua Campo Mártires de Pátria 37) is the choice for Lisbon (€20, 3½ hours), with the most direct routes and eight to 12 departures daily, including one continuing on to the Algarve. Renex also has frequent services to Braga (€6, 1¼ hours). Buses depart from Campo Mártires da Patria 37.
Rede Expressos (
GOOGLE MAP
; %222 006 954; www.rede-expressos.pt; Rua Alexandre Herculano 366) has services to the entire country from the smoggy Paragem Atlântico terminal (
GOOGLE MAP
).
There are Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) departures from Interface Casa da Música (Rua Capitão Henrique Calvão). Northern Portugal’s own international carrier, Internorte ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.internorte.pt; Praça da Galiza 96), departs from the same terminal. Most travel agencies can book outbound buses with either operator.
Train
Porto is the principal rail hub for northern Portugal. Long-distance services start at Campanhã ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rua Monte da Estação) station, 3km east of the centre.
Direct IC destinations from Porto include Lisbon (2nd class €24.30, 3¼ hours, hourly).
Most urbano, regional and interregional (IR) trains depart from the stunning indoor-outdoor São Bento station, though all these lines also pass through Campanhã.
For destinations on the Braga, Guimarães and Aveiro lines, or up the Douro Valley as far as Marco de Canaveses, take one of the frequent urbano trains.
Transport Tickets & Passes
oFor maximum convenience, Porto’s transport system offers the rechargeable Andante Card (www.linhandante.com), allowing smooth movement between tram, metro, funicular and many bus lines.
oThe card itself costs only €0.60 and can be recharged for one year. Once you’ve purchased the card, charge it with travel credit according to which zones you will be travelling in.
oPurchase credit at metro ticket machines and staffed TIP booths at central hubs such as Casa da Música and Trindade, as well as the STCP office, the funicular, the electric tram museum and a scattering of other authorised sales points.
oYour time begins from when you first enter the vehicle or platform: just wave the card in front of a validation machine marked ‘Andante’.
oEach trip allows you to move between methods of transport without additional cost.
8Getting Around
oMetro Porto's compact, six-line metro network runs from 6am to 1am daily. It's handy for zipping between neighbourhoods and getting to/from the airport and beaches north of the city. A map is available at http://en.metrodoporto.pt.
oTram Porto's vintage trams are transport at its atmospheric best. There are three lines: 1 running along the river from the historic centre to Foz, 18 between Massarelos and Carmo, and 22 doing a loop through the centre from Carmo to Batalha/Guindais.
oBus Central hubs of Porto's extensive bus system include the Jardim da Cordoaria, Praça da Liberdade and São Bento station.
oTaxi To cross town expect to pay between €5 and €8. There's a 20% surcharge at night. There are taxi ranks throughout the centre.