Évora

One of Portugal’s most beautifully preserved medieval towns, Évora is enchanting. Inside the 14th-century walls, Évora’s narrow, winding lanes lead to striking architectural works: an elaborate medieval cathedral and cloisters; the cinematic columns of the Templo Romano (near the intriguing Roman baths); and a picturesque town square, once the site of some rather gruesome episodes courtesy of the Inquisition. Aside from its historic and aesthetic virtues, Évora is also a lively university town, and its many characterful restaurants and cafes serve up hearty Alentejan cuisine. Outside of town, Neolithic monuments and rustic wineries make for fine day trips.

Évora in Two Days

Your first day in Évora should be spent taking in the town's architectural gems such as the Igreja de São Francisco and the Templo Romano. Spend day two exploring the Sé and the Museu do Évora. Round off both days with some delicious Alentejan fare in one of the towns celebrated restaurants.

Évora in Four Days

On day three get out of town to see the megaliths that dot the surrounding landscapes west of Évora. These Neolithic remains date back 5000 to 7500 years but you’ll need a car to find them. You could spend day four seeking out local wineries or seeing some of the town's less well-known sites such as the Museu do Évora.

Ptxgarfield / Getty Images ©

Arriving in Évora

Bus station Handles long-distance coach services to towns and cities across southern Portugal and beyond.

Train station Services to Lisbon and a couple of cities on the Algarve coast depart from here.

Sleeping

Most of Évora's best accommodation is within the town walls where about a fifth of the population also lives. From outside the walls it can be a trek to the sights of the city centre.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Évora's Architectural Treasures

Few cities in Portugal boast the wealth and diversity of architecture that Évora can. An almost uninterrupted ring of defensive town walls contains Roman and medieval sites aplenty.

Great For…

vhk

yDon't Miss

You can walk 8.5km along Évora's 16th-century aqueduct – ask the tourist office for details.

8Need to Know

Most of Évora's architecture can be viewed for free.

5Take a Break

Café Arcada is a good central place selling coffees and snacks.

oTop Tip

The tourist office town map is an excellent resource for exploring Évora's architectural heritage.

Medieval Gems

Évora’s best-known church is the Igreja de São Francisco ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Praça 1 de Maio), a tall and huge Manueline-Gothic structure, completed around 1510 and dedicated to St Francis. Legend has it that the Portuguese playwright Gil Vicente is buried here.

Guarded by a pair of rose granite towers, Évora’s fortress-like medieval cathedral, the Sé ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo do Marquês de Marialva; €1.50, with cloister & towers €3.50, with museum €4.50; h9am-5pm), has fabulous cloisters and a museum jam-packed with ecclesiastical treasures. It was begun around 1186, during the reign of Sancho I, Afonso Henriques’ son; there was probably a mosque here before. It was completed about 60 years later. The flags of Vasco da Gama’s ships were blessed here in 1497.

The small, fabulous Igreja de São João (Church of St John the Evangelist; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; €7; h10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun), which faces the Templo Romano, was founded in 1485 by one Rodrigo Afonso de Melo, count of Olivença and the first governor of Portuguese Tangier, to serve as his family’s pantheon. It is still privately owned, by the Duques de Cadaval, and notably well kept.

The Sé, Évora’s fortress-like cathedral | Cmanuel photography - Portugal / Getty Images ©

Roman Ruins

Once part of the Roman Forum, the remains of Templo Romano (Temple of Diana; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo do Conde de Vila Flor), dating from the 2nd or early 3rd century, are a heady slice of drama right in town. It's among the best-preserved Roman monuments in Portugal, and probably on the Iberian Peninsula. Though it's commonly referred to as the Temple of Diana, there's no consensus about the deity to which it was dedicated, and some archaeologists believe it may have been dedicated to Julius Caesar.

Inside the entrance hall of the câmara municipal are more Roman vestiges, only discovered in 1987. These impressive Roman baths, which include a laconicum (heated room for steam baths) with a superbly preserved 9m-diameter circular pool, would have been the largest public building in Roman Évora. The complex also includes an open-air swimming pool, discovered in 1994.

Capela dos Ossos

One of Évora’s most popular sights is also one of its most chilling. The walls and columns of this mesmerising memento mori (reminder of death) are lined with the bones and skulls of some 5000 people. This was the solution found by three 17th-century Franciscan monks for the overflowing graveyards of churches and monasteries.

Bones and skulls in the walls of Capela dos Ossos | Michele Falzone / Alamy Stock Photo ©

Other Sites

Northwest of the centre is the 16th-century Aqueduto da Água de Prata (Aqueduct of Silver Water; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), designed by Francisco de Arruda (better known for Lisbon’s Tower of Belém) to bring clean water to Évora. the 17th-century facade of the Palácio Cadaval (Palace of Cadaval; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; incl Igreja de São João €7; h10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun) hides a much older palace and castle which served as a royal residence.

Évora

1Sights

1Aqueduto da Água de PrataA1

Casas PintadasC3

2Coleção de CarruagensD3

3Convento dos LóiosD3

4Ermida de São BrásC6

5Fórum Eugénio de AlmeidaC3

6Galeria das DamasC5

7Igreja de São FranciscoC5

8Igreja de São JoãoC3

9Jardim PúblicoC5

10Museu do ÉvoraC3

11Palácio CadavalC3

12Praça do GiraldoC4

13SéD3

14Templo RomanoC3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

15AgiaC4

16Rota dos Vinhos do AlentejoA3

7Shopping

17Feiras no LargoC4

18Gente da Minha TerraC3

19MontsobroC4

5Eating

20Adega do AlentejanoB3

21Botequim da MourariaC3

22Café ArcadaC3

23Chão das CovasB2

24Pastelaria Conventual Pão de RalaD5

25Quarta FeiraC2

26Restaurante O FialhoA3

27Salsa VerdeB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

28Bar do TeatroA3

29Kitsch Underground LoungeD4

1Sights

Praça do GiraldoPlaza

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The city’s main square has seen some potent moments in Portuguese history, including the 1483 execution of Fernando, Duke of Bragança; the public burning of victims of the Inquisition in the 16th century; and fiery debates on agrarian reform in the 1970s. Nowadays it’s still the city's focus, host to less dramatic activities such as sitting in the sun and coffee drinking.

The narrow lanes to the southwest were once Évora’s judiaria (Jewish quarter). To the northeast, Rua 5 de Outubro, climbing to the Sé, is lined with handsome townhouses wearing wrought-iron balconies, while side alleys pass beneath Moorish-style arches.

Praça do Giraldo | Olivier Bigot / 500px ©

Museu do ÉvoraMuseum

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %266 730 480; Largo do Conde de Vila Flor; adult/child €3/free; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun)

Adjacent to the cathedral, in what used to be the archbishop’s palace (built in the 16th century), is this elegant museum. The cloistered courtyard reveals Islamic, Roman and medieval remains. In polished rooms upstairs are former Episcopal furnishings and a gallery of Flemish paintings. Most memorable is Life of the Virgin, a 13-panel series originally part of the cathedral’s altarpiece, created by anonymous Flemish artists working in Portugal around 1500.

Jardim PúblicoGardens

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h8am-9pm May-Aug, to 7pm Mar, Apr, Sep & Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Feb)

For a lovely tranquil stroll, head to the light-dappled public gardens (with a small outdoor cafe) south of the Igreja de São Francisco. Inside the walls of the 16th-century Palácio de Dom Manuel is the Galeria das Damas (Ladies’ Gallery; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Palácio de Dom Manuel; h10am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat), an indecisive hybrid of Gothic, Manueline, neo-Moorish and Renaissance styles. It’s open when there are (frequent) temporary art exhibitions.

From the town walls you can see, a few blocks to the southeast, the crenellated, pointy-topped Arabian Gothic profile of the Ermida de São Brás (Chapel of St Blaise; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida Dr Barahona).

Fórum Eugénio de AlmeidaMuseum

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fundacaoeugeniodealmeida.pt; Largo do Conde de Vila Flor; adult/child €4/free, Sun free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

In a building that once housed the Holy Office of Inquisition, this centre of arts and culture hosts some of Évora’s most thought-provoking art exhibitions throughout the year. Also part of the foundation is the Casas Pintadas, a small collection of outdoor murals.

Convento dos LóiosNotable Building

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo do Conde de Vila-Flor)

The former Convento dos Lóios, to the right of Igreja de São João, has elegant Gothic cloisters topped by a Renaissance gallery. A national monument, the convent was converted into a top-end pousada (inn) in 1965. If you want to wander around, wear your wealthy-guest expression – or have dinner at its upmarket restaurant.

Coleção de CarruagensMuseum

(Carriage Collection; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Largo Dr Mário Chicò 4; €1, Sun before 12.30pm free; h10am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Tue-Sun)

Part of the Eugénio de Almeida Foundation, this pint-sized museum houses an intriguing collection of old carriages. It’s hidden away behind the Sé, and is largely overlooked by most visitors.

Casas PintadasHistoric Site

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; €1; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Painted on the garden walls of an open vaulted gallery are a series of unusual 16th-century murals that were once part of a noble’s residence. Recently restored, these paintings depict creatures real and imagined, such as birds, hares, foxes, a basilisk, a mermaid and a harpy. Access is via the Fórum Eugénio de Almeida.

2Activities

Cartuxa WineryWine

(%266 748 383; www.cartuxa.pt; Estrada da Soeira; from €5; htours 10.30am, 11.30am, 3pm & 4.30pm)

For a taste of history, this is a fun visit – Cartuxa is one of the oldest wineries in Alentejo. Run by the well-known local philanthropic foundation Eugenio De Almeida, it produces some good wines at all prices, along with olive oils and other products. You must reserve a tour (strictly at the times given); prices start at €5 and then vary according to how many wines you want to taste.

The winery is located about 2km northwest of the old city walls.

Rota dos Vinhos do AlentejoWine

(Wine Route of the Alentejo; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %266 746 498; www.vinhosdoalentejo.pt; Praça Joaquim António de Aguiar 20-21; h2-7pm Mon, 11am-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)

Head here to sample some of the great wines of the Alentejo. Every Monday new wines are on offer, with more than 70 wineries represented. Tastings of the dozen varieties on hand are free (try them all!). Bottles will set you back anywhere from €3.50 to €9.

The Wine Route

Wines here, particularly the reds, are fat, rich and fruity. But tasting them is much more fun than reading about them, so drop in on some wineries. The Rota dos Vinhos do Alentejo (Wine Route of the Alentejo) splits the region into three separate areas – the Serra de São Mamede (dark reds, full bodied, red fruit hints); Historic (smooth reds, fruity whites) around Évora, Estremoz, Borba and Monsaraz; and the Rio Guadiana (scented whites, spicy reds). Some wineries also have accommodation options.

You’ll see brown signs all over the place announcing that you are on the wine trail, and you can pick up the booklet that lists wineries and their details at any local tourist office. Otherwise visit the helpful Rota dos Vinhos do Alentejo headquarters.

Alentejo vineyard | Inaquim / Getty Images ©

TTours

Rota do FrescoCultural

(%284 475 413; www.rotadofresco.com; per person €25)

Offers fascinating cultural tours led by an art historian to local baroque sites filled with frescos and azulejos (hand-painted tiles). Reservations required.

Ebora MegalithicaTours

(%964 808 337; www.eboramegalithica.com; per person €25, maximum 7 people; htours 10am & 2.30pm Mon-Sat)

If you’re interested in the megaliths – Almendres, Zambujeiro and the Menir dos Almendres – this three-hour tour is a must. Young archaeologist enthusiast Mário makes the megalithic sites accessible in every sense, providing their where, what, why and how. He succeeds in making the experience an educational yet relaxed one.

AgiaWalking

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %963 702 392; www.alentejoguides.com; adult/under 12yr €15/free, minimum 2 people; h10am)

Agia offers daily two-hour guided walking tours of Évora, departing from outside the turismo (tourist office) on Praça do Giraldo.

7Shopping

Feiras no LargoMarket

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Praça 1 de Maio; h8am-2pm Sat & Sun)

Each weekend sees the Feiras no Largo, one of four different markets held in the city. Expect antiquities, used books and collectables, art and artesanatos (handicrafts shops).

Gente da Minha TerraFood, Gifts & Souvenirs

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gentedaminhaterra.pt; Rua 5 de Outubro 39; h10am-7pm)

On a boutique-lined street leading off the main plaza, this is a great one-stop shop for gifts. The shelves are packed with quality olive oils, azulejos, textiles, ceramics and pretty packages of tinned sardines and other preserves.

MontsobroHomewares

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.montsobro.com; Rua 5 de Outubro 66; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)

One of many shops along Rua 5 de Outubro, this was the first – and is still one of the best – that sells cork products.

Évora's History

The Celtic settlement of Ebora had been established here before the Romans arrived in 59 BC and made it a military outpost, and eventually an important centre of Roman Iberia.

After a depressing spell under the Visigoths, the town got its groove back as a centre of trade under the Moors. In AD 1165 Évora’s Muslim rulers were hoodwinked by a rogue Portuguese Christian knight known as Giraldo Sem Pavor (Gerald the Fearless). The well-embellished story goes like this: Giraldo single-handedly stormed one of the town’s watchtowers by climbing up a ladder of spears driven into the walls. From there he distracted municipal sentries while his companions effortlessly took the town.

Évora’s golden age was from the 14th to 16th centuries, when it was favoured by the Alentejo’s own House of Avis, as well as by scholars and artists. Declared an archbishopric in 1540, it got its own Jesuit university in 1559.

When Cardinal-King Dom Henrique, last of the Avis line, died in 1580 and Spain seized the throne, the royal court left Évora and the town began wasting away. The Marquês de Pombal’s closure of the university in 1759 was the last straw. French forces plundered Évora and massacred its defenders in 1808. As is often the case, it was this decline that led to the preservation of so much of the town's architecture.

5Eating

Botequim da MourariaPortuguese$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %266 746 775; Rua da Mouraria 16A; mains €14-17; h12.30-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm Sat)

Poke around the old Moorish quarter to find some of Évora’s finest food and wine – gastronomes believe this is Évora’s culinary shrine. Owner Domingos will expertly guide you through the menu, which also features an excellent variety of wines from the Alentejo. There are no reservations and just nine stools at a counter. It is extremely popular, and lines are long. To have any chance of getting a seat, arrive before it opens.

Salsa VerdeVegetarian$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %266 743 210; www.salsa-verde.org; Rua do Raimundo 93A; small plate €4.95 or per kg €14.40; hnoon-3pm & 7-9.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm Sat; Wv)

Vegetarians (and Portuguese pigs) will be thankful for this veggie-popping paradise. Pedro, the owner, gives a wonderful twist to traditional Alentejan dishes such as the famous bread dish, migas, prepared with mushrooms. Low-playing bossa nova and a cheerful airy design make a fine complement to the dishes – all made from fresh, locally sourced products (organic when possible).

Adega do AlentejanoPortuguese$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %266 744 447; Rua Gabriel Victor Monte Pereira 21; mains €8-13; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat)

Red-and-white checked tablecloths, rustic decor and garrulous host named Carlos set the stage for a fun, casual night of Alentejo fare that won't break the bank. Start off with the rich sopa de tomate (tomato soup) served with sausages (good for sharing), then move on to hearty pork or codfish dishes. House wine comes straight from the barrel.

Restaurante O FialhoPortuguese$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %266 703 079; http://restaurantefialho.pai.pt; Travessa dos Mascarenhas 16; mains €14.50-18; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun)

An icon of Évora’s culinary scene, O Fialho has been wowing diners since 1945 – as evidenced by the photos of visiting dignitaries lining the walls. Amid wood panelling and white tablecloths, professional wait staff serve up first-rate Alentejan cuisine. The appetisers steal the show, along with the extensive wine list.

Chão das CovasPortuguese$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %266 706 294; www.facebook.com/chaodascovascafe; Largo do Chão das Covas; sharing plates €4.50-6, mains €7-10; h11am-3pm & 5.30-11pm Tue-Sun)

Tucked away on a small plaza beside the aqueduct, this friendly, boxcar-sized eatery serves up tasty home-cooked Alentejan classics that change by day, as well as good-value petiscos (sharing plates) like fried squid, roasted peppers, cheese platters and the like. It’s a fine place to linger, with a barrel-vaulted ceiling, B&W photos of Évora and terrace seating on warm days.

Pastelaria Conventual Pão de RalaBakery$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua do Cicioso 47; pastries €1.20-3; h7.30am-8pm; W)

The azulejo-covered walls (complete with a bakery scene) and low-playing fado create a fine setting for nibbling on heavenly pastries and convent cakes, all made on the premises. Don’t miss the pão de rala (an egg yolk, sugar, lemon zest and almond cake) – it’s sweet stuff and wonderfully sinful.

Quarta FeiraPortuguese$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %266 707 530; Rua do Inverno 16; dinner per person incl appetisers, wine & dessert €25; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat)

Don’t bother asking for the menu since there’s just one dish on offer at this jovial eatery tucked away in the Moorish quarter. Luckily it’s a stunner: slow-cooked black pork so tender it falls off the bone, plus fresh baked bread, cured ham (and other appetisers), dessert and ever-flowing glasses of wine – all served for one set price.

Arched ceilings, checked tablecloths and the warm smile of owner-chef Zé Dias (indeed, that’s his likeness on the wine label) make this place a favourite with out-of-towners.

Café ArcadaCafe$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/Cafe.Arcada.Evora; Praça do Giraldo 10; mains €7-10; h8am-9.30pm Sun-Thu, to 10.30pm Fri & Sat)

This busy, barn-sized cafe is an Évora institution serving coffee, crêpes and cakes. You can sit at an outdoor table on the lovely plaza.

Food of the Alentejo

Warning to vegetarians: pork will confront you at every repast in the Alentejo. Bread also figures heavily; you’ll find it in gazpacho or açorda. During hunting season, perdiz (partridge), lebre (hare) and javali (wild boar) are the go. The Alentejo also has surf-and-turf blends such as carne de porco à alentejana (braised pork with baby clams).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Art CafeCafe

(Rua Serpa Pinto 6; h11am-midnight Tue-Sat, to 9pm Sun & Mon)

Set in the cloisters of the old Palácio Barrocal, this bohemian cafe and drinking spot has outdoor tables, hipster wait staff and ambient electronic grooves. The outdoor tables beneath are a fine spot to unwind with a sangria after a day exploring. Tasty veg-friendly snacks too (gaspacho, tostas, lasagna).

Bar do TeatroBar

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/bardoteatrogarciaderezende; Praça Joaquim António de Aguiar; h4pm-2am)

Next to the theatre, this small, inviting bar has high ceilings and old-world decor that welcomes a friendly mixed crowd. The music tends towards lounge and electronica.

Kitsch Underground LoungeCocktail Bar

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua Miguel Bombarda 56A; h10pm-3am Tue-Sat)

Kitsch draws a young friendly crowd to a two-room space on Rua Miguel Bombarda (a street with a few other bars nearby). DJs spin ambient grooves – deep house, electro jazz – while the bobbing crowd sips sweet cocktails. It’s fairly dead until after midnight.

8Information

TurismoTourist Information

( GOOGLE MAP ; %266 777 071; www.cm-evora.pt; Praça do Giraldo 73; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar)

This helpful, central tourist office offers a great town map.

8Getting There & Away

Train

The Évora station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %266 742 336) is outside the walls, 600m south of the jardim público. There are daily trains to/from Lisbon (€12.20, 1½ hours, four daily). Trains also go to/from Lagos (€26.30, 4½ to five hours, three daily) and Faro (€25.30, four to five hours, two daily).

Bus

The bus station is located a short distance west of the walled centre. Services:

Coimbra €18.50, 4½ hours, four daily.

Faro €17.50, four hours, three daily.

Lisbon €12.50, 1½ to two hours, hourly.

8Getting Around

Evora Adventure Bike ( GOOGLE MAP ; %266 702 326, 969 095 880; Travessa do Barão 18; half-day/4 days €8/40; h9am-9pm) Half-day and multi-day bike rental.