Rio Douro Valley

One of the world’s oldest demarcated wine regions, the Douro Valley showcases steep terrace vineyards carved into mountains, granite bluffs, and whitewashed quintas (estates) and 18th-century wine cellars that draw in visitors from around the world. Come for the ports and wines, winding scenic roads, postcard-pretty villages and excellent regional restaurants.

The valley also hosts Portugal's most scenic train ride, the Linha do Douro running from Porto to Pocinho, a distance of 160km. The Douro can also be seen from cruise ships that ply its waters, stopping off along the way for wine tasting sessions at the many producers en route.

Rio Douro Valley in a Week

How long it takes you to tackle the Douro Valley depends on what mode of transport you use. By car around a week is the ideal length of trip. Hire a car in Porto and head up the valley, overnighting in Peso da Régua and Pinhão en route. You can manage the same itinerary in the same time frame by train.

Rio Douro Valley in a Week or More

A week gives you the time for some real slow travel, sampling myriad wines as you go. The only problem with this is driving a hire car afterwards! Designate a driver and head up the valley from Porto. By train you may not be able to reach some of the more remote wineries.

Matt Munro / Lonely Planet ©

Arriving in the Rio Douro Valley

São Bento/Campanhã train station Trains leave these stations for Peso da Régua where you change for the Douro Valley. At least five trains run all the way from Porto to Pocinho.

N108/222 These two roads follow the valley.

Sleeping

There are lodgings all along the valley, from town-based hotels to rural stays at tiny wineries. Booking ahead in the summer months is essential, though at other times of the year you could just turn up or book on the day through tourist offices and booking websites.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Wines, Trains and the River Douro

One of the most attractive and popular tourist routes in Iberia, the road and rail journey through the Douro Valley is unmissable for fans of wine, trains and stunning landscapes.

Great For…

ugA

yDon't Miss

A wine-tasting session at Quinta do Vallodo, a winery dating from 1716.

8Need to Know

Trains from Porto run five times daily; journey time: three hours 30 minutes. Fare: €13 each way.

5Take a Break

DOC is regarded as the best restaurant in the Douro Valley.

oTop Tip

An excellent website to consult before heading into the Douro Valley is www.dourovalley.eu. This gives the lowdown on wineries, the railway, cruises and many other aspects of touring in the region.

Wines of the Douro

The Douro has been a demarcated wine region since 1756, and the reds and whites that emerge every autumn from the stunning valley in which they are produced holds Portugal's highest wine classification – Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC). The Douro is best known for its port, but its table wines are equally as celebrated. It's thought grapes have been grown here since Roman times. Port made an appearance in the mid-18th century but it wasn't until the late 20th century that serious table wines were made for export. Countless lodges offer tastings. In 2001 the valley was declared a Unesco World Cultural Heritage Site not only recognising the valley as a great wine producing region, but also placing it firmly on the tourist map.

Great Train Journey

Without doubt Portugal's greatest rail journey, the 160km long line from Porto to Pocinho is a wonder of 19th-century engineering. The line opened in 1887 and once ran all the way from the Atlantic to the Spanish border. Branch lines once wriggled their way up side valleys to remote villages, but these were closed with the arrival of the petrol engine. This left just the main route with its 20 tunnels, 34 stations and 30 bridges. For a real 19th-century experience, try to catch one of the special steam services that run between Régua and Tua on summer weekends. (You can do the return train journey in a day if pressed for time.)

Douro Valley’s steam train | Richard Semik / Alamy Stock Photo ©

Wine Tourism in Portugal

This excellent online platform (www.winetourismportugal.com) offers curated info about wine experiences available all over Portugal, including the Douro. The easily navigated online reservations system includes customised tours of wineries and vineyards, food experiences, stays at wine hotels, cruises and more.

Local wine tasting | Getty Images ©

Cruise & Car

In addition to the train, cruise ships are another popular way of seeing the valley. Cruises leave from Porto and terminate at the Spanish border. Cycling is also becoming a favourite way to travel, though intoxicating Douro wine and pedalling may seem an odd mix. Some of the old railway lines in the valley have been converted into cycle trails.

Pinhão

2Activities

Wine tasting in the local quintas (estates) is what visiting this village of 1000 souls is all about.

Quinta NovaHiking, Winery

(%254 730 430; www.quintanova.com; Covas do Douro; wine tours €7, tastings €8-48; htours 11am, 12.45pm, 3.30pm, 4.45pm)

Set on a stunning ridge, surrounded by luscious, ancient vineyards, overlooking the deep green Douro river with mountains layered in the distance, the Quinta Nova estate is well worth an in-depth exploration. The three hiking and biking trails (the longest is 2½ hours) are the best in the region.

To get here, head 9km west of Pinhão, along the north bank of the Douro (EN322-2).

Quinta Nova | Matt Munro / Lonely Planet ©

Quinta do BomfimWine

(%254 730 350; www.symington.com/news/quinta-do-bomfim; tours €7.50, incl tasting €10; h10.30am-7pm daily Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)

Symington's swank quinta showcases a small museum inside a restored old winery. Guided tours (in several languages) include a visit to the old lodge dating back to 1896 where young wine is still aged in old wooden vats. The tour ends in the gorgeous tasting room with a terrace featuring beautiful vistas of the Douro, where wines are available by the glass.

The vineyard walks offer a great chance to immerse yourself in the ancient vineyard terraces (€5 with a map, hat and a bottle of water).

Quinta do TedoWine

(%254 789 165; www.quintadotedo.com; Folgosa; tours incl tasting €8; h10am-7pm)

Blessed with sublime real estate carved by two rivers – the Douro and Tedo – this American-French-Portuguese–owned 14-hectare estate offers short 20-minute tours of the winery (which is certified organic), followed by a tasting of port, table wine and organic olive oil. There are also certified hiking trails on the property that are especially wonderful for birdwatching.

Quinta das CarvalhasWine

(%254 738 050; carvalhas@realcompanhiavelha.pt; tours bus/jeep €12.50/35)

This quinta excels at their 'vintage' tours, guided by the in-house agriculturalist, who takes you on a two-hour jeep tour around the gorgeous vineyards and to the top of the estate's ridge (book ahead). The cheaper alternative is with a bus that picks people up from the train station (10am, noon, 3pm & 5pm), with a tasting of three wines at the end.

It also offers walks around the vineyards (€10) and picnics in amazing ruins on-site (€45).

Douro-a-Vela Boat Trips

One of the sweetest thrills in the area demands that you simply lie back and cruise upriver into the heart of the Alto Douro aboard a sail boat. Catch the boat from the Folgosa do Douro pier, just outside DOC restaurant. The price listed is based on a six-person minimum (or pay €180 for two). Book ahead.

5Eating

DOCPortuguese$$$

(%254 858 123; www.ruipaula.com; Estrada Nacional 222, Folgosa; mains €27.50-29; h12.30-3.30pm & 7.30-11pm)

Architect Miguel Saraiva's ode to clean-lined, glass-walled minimalism, DOC is headed up by Portuguese star chef Rui Paula. Its terrace peering out across the river is a stunning backdrop. Dishes give a pinch of imagination to seasonal, regional flavours, from fish açordas (stews) to game and wild mushrooms – all of which are paired with carefully selected wines from the cellar.

The restaurant is in Folgosa, midway between Peso da Régua and Pinhão, on the south side of the river.

VeladouroPortuguese$$

(%254 738 166; Rua da Praia 3; mains €7-15; h10am-midnight)

Simple but tasty Portuguese food, such as wood-grilled meats and fish, is served inside this quaint schist building or outside under a canopy of vines. From the train station, turn left and go along the main road for 150m, then left again under a railway bridge, and right at the river.

8Getting There & Away

Regional trains go to and from Peso da Régua (€2.75, 25 minutes, five daily), where you can catch an onward train to Porto.

It's best to have your own wheels if you want to explore the area independently, as some of the best spots are not accessible by public transport.

Peso da Régua

1Sights

Museu do DouroMuseum

(www.museudodouro.pt; Rua Marquês de Pombal; adult/concession €6/3; h10am-6pm)

It’s not all about the wine. Sometimes it’s about contemporary canvases, impressionist landscapes, old leather-bound texts, vintage port-wine posters and the remains of an old flat-bottomed port hauler. You’ll find it all in a gorgeous converted riverside warehouse, with a restaurant and bar on-site. The gift shop, stocked with wine, handmade soaps and some terrific silver, is brilliant.

2Activities

Steam Train to TuaRail

(Comboio Vapor; www.cp.pt; one-way €4; hJun-Oct)

While the gorgeous Linha da Tua line remains out of service, you can still ride in this lovingly restored steam train, which travels four times daily along the Douro from Régua to Tua, making a 20-minute stop in Pinhão.

Tomaz do DouroCruise

(%222 082 286; www.tomazdodouro.pt; cruises from €10)

Tomaz do Douro offers a set of different cruises along the Douro, with different departure points.

5Eating

A couple of traditional taverns that dish out good-value lunch menus and an inventive restaurant serving updated Portuguese classics make Régua a decent place to eat.

Taberna do JéréréPortuguese$$

(Rua Marquês de Pombal 38; mains €9-16; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun)

Excellent Portuguese dishes, including bacalhau á Jéréré (dried salt-cod with shrimp, mushroom and spinach), served in a tastefully rustic dining room with a beamed ceiling and granite floors. Great-value lunch specials.

Castas e PratosPortuguese$$$

(%254 323 290; www.castasepratos.com; Avenida José Vasques Osório; mains €20-30; h10.30am-11pm)

The coolest dining room in town is set in a restored wood-and-stone rail-yard warehouse with exposed original timbers. You can order grilled alheira (a light, garlicky sausage of poultry or game) or octopus salad from the tapas bar downstairs, or have the locally caught cod in an almond crust with Lamego ham or kid goat in port with fava beans in the mezzanine.

8Information

TurismoTourist Information

(%254 312 846; www.cm-pesoregua.pt; Avenida do Douro; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat)

The new high-tech turismo office facing the Douro river supplies information about the town and the region, including the accommodation options and vineyards in the area.

8Getting There & Away

Transdev buses run regularly to/from Lamego (€2.30, 20 minutes), and Tâmega/Rodonorte has five daily departures to Vila Real (€6, 30 minutes).

There are around 13 trains daily from Porto (€10, two hours); some continue up the valley to Pinhão (€2.80, 25 minutes, five daily). Around five trains depart daily for Tua (€4; 40 minutes). If you’ve taken a train this far and suddenly realise you need a car to visit the vineyards, your best bet is Europcar (%254 321 146; www.europcar.com; Avenida João Franco; rental per day from €82).

Lamego

1Sights

Museu de LamegoMuseum

( GOOGLE MAP ; Largo de Camôes; adult/student €3/1.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)

Occupying a grand, 18th-century Episcopal palace, the Museu de Lamego is one of Portugal’s finest regional museums. The collection features five entrancing works by renowned 16th-century Portuguese painter Vasco Fernandes (Grão Vasco), richly worked Brussels tapestries from the same period, and an extraordinarily diverse collection of heavily gilded 17th-century chapels rescued in their entirety from the long-gone Convento das Chagas.

SéCathedral

( GOOGLE MAP ; Largo da Sé; h9am-1pm & 3-6.30pm)

Older than Portugal itself, Lamego’s striking sé (cathedral) has been declared a national monument. There is little left of the 12th-century original except the base of its square belfry. The rest of the structure, including the brilliantly carved Gothic triple portal, dates mostly from the 16th and 18th centuries. Arresting biblical frescoes and the high choir stalls are the work of 18th-century Italian baroque architect Nicolau Nasoni, who left his mark all over Porto. With luck you will find the door open to the peaceful 16th-century cloisters, located just around the corner.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos RemédiosChurch

( GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-8pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr)

One of the country’s most important pilgrimage sites, this twin-towered 18th-century church has a trim blue-and-white stucco interior with a sky-blue rococo ceiling and a gilded altar. The church, however, is quite overshadowed by the zigzagging monumental stairway that leads up to it. The 600-plus steps are resplendent with azulejos (hand-painted tiles), urns, fountains and statues, adding up to one of the greatest works in Portuguese rococo style.

It’s a dramatic sight at any time, but the action peaks in late summer when thousands of devotees arrive and ascend the steps in search of miracles during the Festa de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. Most offerings are made at the rear altar where Mother Mary reigns supreme. If you can’t face the climb by foot, a road (turn off 1km out on the Viseu road) winds up the hill for about 3km before reaching the top.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios | Marc Venema / Shutterstock ©

Festa de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios

Lamego’s biggest party runs for several weeks from late August to mid-September. In an afternoon procession on 8 September, ox-drawn carts rattle through the streets carrying tableaux vivants (religious scenes represented by costumed people), and devotees slowly ascend the stairway on their knees. Less-pious events in the run-up include rock concerts, folk dancing, car racing, parades and at least one all-night party.

5Eating

Like most regions that produce good wines, Lamego delivers food to match. Its fumeiros (smoked meats) are justly famous and can be found in one of several wonderful gourmet food shops on Rua de Olaria. Hit the mercado municipal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida 5 de Outubre; h7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat) early for fresh fruit and veggies if you’re packing a picnic.

Manjar do DouroPortuguese$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %254 611 285; Avenida Dr Alfredo de Sousa 43; mains €6-16; h8am-midnight)

Well-known traditional restaurant frequented by business folk at lunchtime and dishing out well-prepared Portuguese mainstays.

Trás da SéPortuguese$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %254 614 075; Largo da Sé; mains €5-6; hnoon-10pm)

Congratulations to the chef line the walls at this adega-style (wine tavern) place, where the atmosphere is friendly, the menu short and simple, the food good and the vinho maduro (matured wine) list long.

Pastelaria ScalaCafe$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Avenida Visconde Guedes Teixeira 31; pastries €1-2; h8am-10pm)

The charming wooden booths and tables are almost always crammed with locals who descend for great coffee and better pastries.

8Information

TurismoTourist Information

( GOOGLE MAP ; %254 099 000; www.cm-lamego.pt; Rua Regimento de Infantaria 9; h10am-7.30pm)

This fantastic tourist office is full of solid suggestions from warm, knowledgeable, English-speaking staff.

8Getting There & Away

The most appealing route to Lamego from anywhere in the Douro Valley is by train to Peso da Régua and by bus or taxi from there. A taxi from Régua costs about €15 to €20.

From Lamego’s bus station, Joalto/EAVT and Rede Expressos are the only operators. Buses travel hourly to Peso da Régua (€2.30, 30 minutes) and daily to Viseu (€8.90, 1¼ hours) and Lisbon (€18.50, 5¾ hours). The Lisbon bus also passes through Vila Real (€6, one hour) and Chaves (€11.40, 2¼ hours). Copy Print ( GOOGLE MAP ; %254 619 447; Avenida Visconde Guedes Teixeira; h8am-8pm), a newsagent beside the turismo, sells tickets for these services.

Self-drivers take note: parking can be tight in Lamego.

Amarante

1Sights

Museu Amadeo de Souza-CardosoMuseum

( GOOGLE MAP ; Alameda Teixeira de Pascoaes; adult/child €1/free; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Oct-May)

Hidden in one of the Mosteiro de São Gonçalo’s cloisters is this delightfully eclectic collection of modernist and contemporary art, a pleasant surprise in a town of this size. The museum is named after Amarante’s favourite son, artist Amadeo Souza-Cardoso (1889–1918) – one of the best-known Portuguese artists of the 20th century, who abandoned naturalism for home-grown versions of impressionism and cubism. The museum is full of his sketches, cartoons, portraits and abstracts.

Ponte de São GonçaloBridge

( GOOGLE MAP )

A symbol of the town’s heroic defence against the French (marked by a plaque at the southeastern end), the granite Ponte de São Gonçalo is Amarante’s visual centrepiece. The original bridge, allegedly built at Gonçalo’s urging in the 13th century, collapsed in a flood in 1763; this one was completed in 1790.

Mosteiro de São GonçaloMonastery

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-7pm Jun-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-May)

Founded in 1543 by João III, the Mosteiro de São Gonçalo and Igreja de São Gonçalo weren’t completed until 1620. Above the church’s photogenic, Italian Renaissance side portal is an arcaded gallery, 30m high, with 17th-century statues of Dom João and the other kings who ruled while the monastery was under construction: Sebastião, Henrique and Felipe I.

The bell tower was added in the 18th century. The best view of the royal statues is from the steep lane just west of the church entrance. Within the lofty interior is an impressive gilded baroque altar, pulpits, an organ casing held up by fishtailed giants, and Gonçalo’s tomb in a tiny chapel (to the left of the altar). Tradition has it that those in search of a partner will have their wish granted within a year if they touch the statue above his tomb. Sure enough, its limestone toes, fingers and face have been all but rubbed away by hopefuls.

2Activities

Rio TâmegaBoating, Walking

(boat hire per 30min/1hr €5/10; hboat hire 9am-8pm)

For an idyllic river stroll, take the cobbled path along the north bank. A good picnic or daydreaming spot is the rocky outcropping overlooking the rapids 400m east of the bridge. You can also potter about the peaceful Rio Tâmega in a paddle or row boat; boat hire is available along the riverbank.

Portuguese St Valentine

Amarante enjoys some small degree of national fame for being the hometown of São Gonçalo. Portugal’s St Valentine, he is the target for lonely hearts who make pilgrimages here in the hope of finding true love.

5Eating

Adega Regional QuelhaPortuguese$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %255 425 786; Rua de Olivença; mains €5-14.50; h11.30am-2pm & 7-10pm Mon-Thu, 11.30am-10pm Fri-Sun)

One of several low-key adegas proffering Amarante’s fine smoked meats and cheese, Adega Quelha is a good place to sample the local delicacies among locals. Grab a bite and a jug of red wine at the bar, or sit down to a simple but filling meal.

Zé da CalçadaPortuguese$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %255 426 814; Rua 31 de Janeiro 83; mains €8-12; hnoon-10pm)

Excellent northern cuisine served in an elegant country-style dining room or on a veranda with idyllic views of the Moistero and the bridge. Top picks here include duck rice and grilled goat. Weekday lunch specials are great value.

Confeitaria da PonteBakery$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %255 432 034; Rua 31 de Janeiro 186; pastries €1.10-1.50; h8.30am-8.30pm)

Boasting a peaceful, shaded terrace overlooking the bridge, this traditional bakery has the best ambience for enjoying Amarante’s famous pastries and eggy custards.

8Information

TurismoTourist Information

( GOOGLE MAP ; %255 420 246; www.amarante.pt/turismo; Alameda Teixeira de Pascoaes; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)

Next to the museum, in the former cloisters of São Gonçalo. It offers city maps, but very little English is spoken.

8Getting There & Away

At the small but busy Estacão Quemado ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.rodonorte.pt; Rua Antonio Carneiro), buses stop at least five times daily from Porto (€6.40, one hour) en route to Vila Real (€6.30, 40 minutes) and Bragança (€12, 2¾ hours). There are also daily buses to Braga (€7.80, 1½ hours) and Lisbon (€18, 4¼ hours).

Where to Sleep

The Douro is a popular destination meaning all of the towns in the valley offer accommodation of most types. Book well ahead in summer and possibly autumn, too. The Douro can be visited as a day trip from Porto, so consider options there, too.