Sintra
Sintra
With its rippling mountains, dewy forests thick with ferns and lichen, exotic gardens and glittering palaces, Sintra is like a page torn from a fairy tale. Its Unesco World Heritage–listed centre, Sintra-Vila, is dotted with pastel-hued manors folded into luxuriant hills that roll down to the blue Atlantic.
Celts worshipped their moon god here, the Moors built a precipitous castle, and 18th-century Portuguese royals swanned around its dreamy gardens. Even Lord Byron waxed lyrical about Sintra’s charms: ‘Lo! Cintra’s glorious Eden intervenes, in variegated maze of mount and glen’, which inspired his epic poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage.
Sintra in Two Days
Two days in Sintra is just enough to get a taste of its grand buildings. Start with the Castelo dos Mouros on day one, followed by the Palácio Nacional de Sintra on day two, perhaps squeezing in the Palácio Nacional da Pena in between.
Sintra in Four Days
Four days allows you to explore some of the lesser-known attractions of Sintra such as the Convento dos Capuchos, the Museu das Artes de Sintra and the Quinta da Regaleira.
Arriving in Sintra
Sintra Train Station Both buses and trains arrive here. If arriving by train, go to the last stop – Sintra – from where it’s a pleasant 1km walk (or short bus ride) into the village.
Sleeping
It’s worth staying overnight, as Sintra has some magical guest houses, from quaint villas to lavish manors. Book ahead in summer.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Palaces & Castles
There's so much to see in Sintra it can be difficult to know where to start. Here we give you the low-down on the big four sights.
Great For…
yDon't Miss
The Chalet da Condessa d'Edla, an often overlooked Alpine-inspired cottage commissioned by King Ferdinand II.
8Need to Know
Buses run to many of the places of interest. Ask at the tourist office about services.
5Take a Break
Casa Piriquita is a convenient spot for a quick bite near the Palácio Nacional de Sintra.
oTop Tip
Go early in the day midweek to escape the worst of the crowds.
Castelo dos Mouros
Soaring 412m above sea level, this mist-enshrouded ruined castle (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.parquesdesintra.pt; adult/child €8/6.50; 
h10am-6pm) looms high above the surrounding forest. When the clouds peel away, the vistas over Sintra’s palace-dotted hill and dale, across to the glittering Atlantic are – like the climb – breathtaking.
The 10th-century Moorish castle’s dizzying ramparts stretch across the mountain ridges and past moss-clad boulders the size of small buses.
Palácio Nacional de Sintra
The star of Sintra-Vila is this palace (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.parquesdesintra.pt; Largo Rainha Dona Amélia; adult/child €10/8.50; h9.30am-7pm, shorter hours in low season), with its iconic twin conical chimneys and lavish interior. The interior is a mix of Moorish and Manueline styles, with arabesque courtyards, barley-twist columns and 15th- and 16th-century geometric azulejos (hand-painted tiles) that figure among Portugal’s oldest.
Of Moorish origins, the palace was first expanded by Dom Dinis (1261–1325), enlarged by João I in the 15th century (when the kitchens were built), then given a Manueline twist by Manuel I in the following century.
Highlights include the octagonal Sala dos Cisnes (Swan Room), adorned with frescoes of 27 gold-collared swans; and the Sala das Pegas (Magpie Room), with its ceiling emblazoned with magpies.
Other standouts are the wooden Sala dos Brasões, bearing the shields of 72 leading 16th-century families, the shipshape Galleon Room and the Palatine chapel featuring an Islamic mosaic floor.
Palácio Nacional da Pena
Rising from a thickly wooded peak, this palace (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.parquesdesintra.pt; combined ticket with Parque Nacional da Pena adult/child €14/12.50; h10am-6pm) is a wacky confection of onion domes, Moorish keyhole gates, writhing stone snakes and crenellated towers in pinks and lemons. It is considered the greatest expression of 19th-century romanticism in Portugal.
Ferdinand of Saxe Coburg-Gotha, the artist-husband of Queen Maria II, and later Dom Ferdinand II, commissioned Prussian architect Ludwig von Eschwege in 1840 to build the Moresque-Manueline epic. Inspired by Stolzenfels and Rheinstein castles and Potsdam's Babelsberg Palace, a flourish of imagination and colour commenced.
The eclectic, extravagant interior is equally unusual, brimming with precious Meissen porcelain, Portuguese-style furniture, trompe l’oeil murals and Dom Carlos’ unfinished nudes of buxom nymphs.
There are daily guided tours at 2.30pm.
Sintra-Vila
1Sights
1Sights
Convento dos CapuchosMonastery
(Capuchin Monastery;
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%219 237 300; www.parquesdesintra.pt; adult/child €7/5.50; h10am-8pm)
Hidden in the woods is this bewitchingly hobbit-hole-like convent, which was originally built in 1560 to house friars who lived in incredibly cramped conditions, their tiny cells having low, narrow doors. Byron mocked the monastery in his poem Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, referring to recluse Honorius who spent a staggering 36 years here (before dying at age 95 in 1596).
It’s often nicknamed the Cork Convent, because its minuscule cells are lined with cork. Visiting here is an Alice in Wonderland experience as you squeeze through to explore the warren of cells, chapels, kitchen and cavern. The monks lived a simple, touchingly well-ordered life in this idyllic yet spartan place, hiding up until 1834 when it was abandoned after all religious orders were abolished.
You can walk here – the monastery is 7.3km from Sintra-Vila (5.1km from the turn-off to Parque da Pena) along a remote, wooded road. There is no bus connection to the convent (taxis charge around €35 return; arrange for a pickup ahead). Well-worth-it audio guides are available for €3.
Museu das Artes de SintraMuseum
(MU.SA;
GOOGLE MAP
; www.cm-sintra.pt; Av Heliodoro Salgado; adult/child €1/free; h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, 2-8pm Sat-Sun)
This new museum took over the former Museu de Arte Moderna space in 2014 and features a small and manageable collection of contemporary and modern art, 80% or so of which is dedicated to local works. The permanent collection features some of Portugal's best-known artists, most notably painters Columbano Bordalo Pinheiro and António Carneiro and sculptor Dorita de Castel-Branco.
Temporary exhibitions run the gamut from war photography to abstract art. Permanent highlights include Carneiro's Maria Josefina; Maria do Céu Crispim's Can You See Me? (made of nails); and several paintings from various artists of Sintra's 18th-century glory days.
Palácio & Parque de MonserratePalace
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.parquesdesintra.pt; adult/child €8/6.50; h10am-6pm)
At the centre of a lush, 30-hectare park, a manicured lawn sweeps up to this whimsical, Moorish-Gothic-Indian palácio, the 19th-century romantic folly of English millionaire Sir Francis Cook. The wild and rambling gardens were created in the 18th century by wealthy English merchant Gerard de Visme, then enlarged by landscape painter William Stockdale (with help from London’s Kew Gardens).
Its wooded hillsides bristle with exotic foliage, from Chinese weeping cypress to dragon trees and Himalayan rhododendrons. Seek out the Mexican garden nurturing palms, yuccas and agaves, and the bamboo-fringed Japanese garden abloom with camellias.
The park is 3.5km west of Sintra-Vila.
Parque da PenaGardens
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %219 237 300; www.parquesdesintra.pt; adult/child €7.50/6.50, combined ticket with Palácio Nacional da Pena €14/12.50; h10am-6pm)
Nearly topped by King Ferdinand II's whimsical Palácio Nacional da Pena (only Cruz Alta, at 528m, is higher), these romantic gardens are filled with tropical plants, huge redwoods and fern trees, camellias, rhododendrons and lakes (note the castle-shaped duck houses for web-footed royalty!). Save by buying a combined ticket if you want to visit Palácio Nacional da Pena too.
While the crowds descend on the palace, another less-visited but fascinating site within the park is the Snow White & the Seven Dwarfs-evoking Chalet da Condessa d'Edla (adult/child €9.50/8.50), an Alpine-inspired summer getaway cottage commissioned by King Ferdinand II and his future second wife, Elise Hensler (the Countess of Edla).
Buses to the park entrance ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parquesdesintra.pt) leave from Sintra train station and near Palácio Nacional de Sintra, among other spots around town. A taxi costs around €10 one-way. The steep, zigzagging walk through pine and eucalyptus woods from Sintra-Vila is around 3km to 4km.
Quinta da Regaleira
This magical villa (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.regaleira.pt; Rua Barbosa du Bocage; adult/child €6/3; h10am-8pm high season, shorter hours in low season) and gardens is a neo-Manueline extravaganza, dreamed up by Italian opera-set designer, Luigi Manini, under the orders of Brazilian coffee tycoon, António Carvalho Monteiro, aka 'Monteiro dos Milhões' ('Moneybags Monteiro'). The villa is surprisingly homely inside, despite its ferociously carved fireplaces, frescoes and Venetian-glass mosaics. Keep an eye out for mythological and Knights Templar symbols.
2Activities
Sintra is a terrific place to get out and stride, with waymarked hiking trails (look for red and yellow stripes) that corkscrew up into densely wooded hills strewn with giant boulders. Justifiably popular is the gentle 50-minute trek from Sintra-Vila to Castelo dos Mouros. You can continue to Palácio Nacional da Pena (another 15 minutes). From here you can ascend Serra de Sintra’s highest point, the 529m Cruz Alta (High Cross), named after its 16th-century cross, with amazing views all over Sintra. It’s possible to continue on foot to São Pedro de Penaferrim and loop back to Sintra-Vila. You can print off maps and info on various hiking trails from the municipality's website under 'Percursos Pedestres' (www.cm-sintra.pt).
Horse riding is available in the Parque da Pena, from 30-minute teasers (€10) to six-hour excursions (€100).
MuitAvenutraAdventure
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %967 021 248; www.muitaventura.com; Rua Marquês Viana 31)
This adventure outfitter has a regular schedule of organised activities, including mountain-biking, rappelling, jeep tours, trekking and night-time hikes. It's based in São Pedro.
Ozono MaisAdventure
(%219 619 927; www.ozonomais.com)
Offers a variety of outdoor excursions, including canoeing, rafting, mountain-biking and jeep tours. Call ahead for times and prices.
Festival de Sintra
Usually in May or June, this three-week-long Festival de Sintra features classical recitals, ballet and modern dance, world music and multimedia events, plus concerts for kids.
TTours
Sight SintraVehicle Hire
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %219 242 856; www.sightsintra.pt; Rua João de Deus; tour €35-45; h10am-7pm)
If you have limited time and you'd like to see some of the attractions beyond Sintra-Vila, Sight Sintra rents out tiny two-person buggies that guide you by GPS along one of three different routes. The most popular takes you to Castelo dos Mouros and Palácio Nacional da Pena, among other places. It's located around the corner from the train station.
You can also create your own itinerary, and hire a buggy for €25 per hour.
Go2Sintra ToursCycling
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %917 855 428; www.go2cintra.com; Av Dr Miguel Bombarda 37; h10.30am-7pm)
Offers highly recommended electric-bike tours (from €35) as well as eBike rental (take our word for it – you'll want the motorised option in Sintra!). A full day's rental with support starts at €30. Its office is across from the Sintra train station inside the SintraCan shop.
5Eating
TulhasPortuguese$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Gil Vicente 4; mains €10-18; hnoon-11pm, to 10pm winter; 
W)
This converted grain warehouse is dark, tiled and quaint, with wrought-iron chandeliers and a relaxed, cosy atmosphere. It’s rightfully renowned for its bacalhau com natas (creamy béchamel with shredded cod, served au gratin) but the tasty arroz de pato (duck rice) is worth your consideration as well.
Nau PalatinaPortuguese$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %219 240 962; www.facebook.com/barnaupalatina; Calçada São Pedro 18; tapas €5.50-9.90; h6pm-midnight Wed-Sat, 3-9pm Sun; W)
Sintra's friendliest and most-welcoming restaurant is a travel-highlight-reel star-in-the-making. Congenial owner Zé's creative tapas are as slightly off-centre as his location, a well-worth-it 1km walk from the centre. Spice Route undertones are weaved throughout the small but tasty menu of small (€1.50) and medium (from €5.50) tidbits strongly forged from local and regional ingredients.
Paired with an excellent house Setúbal red and Zé's convivial nature, you have yourself an evening to remember.
INcomumPortuguese$$
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %219 243 719; www.incomumbyluissantos.pt; Rua Dr Alfredo Costa 22; mains €14.50-15.50; hnoon-midnight; W)
Chef Luis Santos is shaking up the scene in Sintra with his modern upgrades to Portuguese cuisine, served amid the muted greys and greens of his synchronic dining room. INcomum quickly established itself as the anti-traditional choice among serious foodies, first by dangling an unbeatable €9.50, three-course lunch carrot, then by letting the food seal the deal.
The Swiss-trained chef does memorable things with chestnuts (cream of chestnut soup, pumpkin cheesecake with chestnut confit, chestnut puree alongside duck magret), but nothing that emerged from his kitchen was underwhelming. A holiday highlight.
Sweet Sintra
Sintra is famous for its luscious sweeties. Fábrica das Verdadeiras Queijadas da Sapa (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/queijadasdasapa; Alameda Volta do Duche 12; pastries from €0.85; h9am-6pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-6.30pm Sat & Sun) has been fattening up royalty since 1756 with bite-sized queijadas – crisp pastry shells filled with a marzipan-like mix of fresh cheese, sugar, flour and cinnamon. Since 1952, Casa Piriquita (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/pastelaria.piriquita; Rua das Padarias 1-5; travesseiros €1.30; h9am-9pm Thu-Tue) has been tempting locals with another sweet dream: the travesseiro (pillow), light puff pastry turned, rolled and folded seven times, then filled with delicious almond-and-egg-yolk cream and lightly dusted with sugar.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Saloon CintraBar
(
GOOGLE MAP
; www.facebook.com/barsaloon.cintra; Av do Movimento das Forças Armadas 5, Portela da Sintra; h8pm-2am Mon-Fri, from 3pm Sat-Sun; W)
Sintra's best bar isn't in the Vila, but that shouldn't stop seasoned drinkers from checking it out. A potpourri of antiques and Portuguese bric-a-bric hovering over numerous mismatched vintage sofas makes for an atmospheric spot to take in the Belgian-heavy beer list (including McChouffe on tap), good cocktails and a cool local crowd. It's 700m east of Sintra station.
3Entertainment
Taverna dos TrovadoresLive Music
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %219 233 548; www.tavernadostrovadores.pt; Praça Dom Fernando II 18; hnoon-4pm & 7pm-2am Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)
This atmospheric restaurant and bar features live music (folk and acoustic) on Friday and Saturday nights – an institution that’s been around for more than two decades. Concerts run from 11.30pm to 2am. Nearby, their new Sabores de Sintra offers dinner and fado. It's located in São Pedro de Penaferrim.
8Information
Ask Me SintraTourist Information
(Turismo;
GOOGLE MAP
; %219 231 157; www.askmelisboa.com/sintra; Praça da República 23; h9.30am-6pm)
Near the centre of Sintra-Vila, Turismo de Lisboa's helpful multilingual office has expert insight on Sintra and the surrounding areas, as well as the interactive 'Myths & Legends' presentation (€4.50). However, keep in mind this is a member-driven organisation, which only promotes those who pay. There's also a small train station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %211 932 545; www.askmelisboa.com/sintra; Sintra train station; h10am-noon & 2.30-6pm) branch, often overrun by arriving visitors.
8Getting There & Away
Scotturb (
GOOGLE MAP
; %219 230 381; www.scotturb.com; Av Dr Miguel Bombarda 59; h9am-6pm) buses 403 and 417 leave regularly for Cascais (€4.10, one hour). Most services leave from Sintra train station (
GOOGLE MAP
) (which is estação on timetables) and travel via Portela de Sintra. Scotturb’s useful information office, open 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 8pm, is opposite the station.
Comboios de Portugal trains (€2.15, 40 minutes) run every 15 minutes between Sintra and Lisbon’s Rossio station.
Where to Stay
Anywhere you choose in and around Sintra will be quiet. There's a dense concentration in the village itself as well as around the train station. Other options are dotted around the area with many affording wonderful views of the wooded hills.
8Getting Around
Various buses run to and around Sintra. Ask at the tourist office for details. Taxis are available at the train station or opposite the Sintra Vila post office. Driving can be a challenge on the narrow roads around Sintra. Parking is limited around town and there are very few spaces at Palácio Nacional de Pena, so it's better to avoid driving there in busy times. For parking near town, there’s a free car park below Sintra-Vila; follow the signs by the câmara municipal (town hall) in Estefânia. Alternatively, park at Portela Interface and take the bus.