Óbidos
Óbidos
Surrounded by a classic crenellated wall, Óbidos’ gorgeous historic centre is a labyrinth of cobblestoned streets and flower-bedecked, whitewashed houses livened up with dashes of vivid yellow and blue paint. It’s a delightful place to pass an afternoon, but there are plenty of reasons to stay overnight, as there's excellent accommodation including a hilltop castle now converted into one of Portugal’s most luxurious pousadas (upmarket hotels).
Hill-town aficionados looking to savour Óbidos’ ‘lost in time’ qualities may find the main street ridiculously touristy, especially on weekends and during festivals. There are pretty bits outside the walls too.
Óbidos in One Day
With just a day to spare in Óbidos, exploring the old centre should be your top priority. The town’s top sights are without doubt the Castelo, Walls and Aqueduct but the Igreja de Santa Maria (Praça de Santa Maria; 
h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm summer, to 5pm winter), the Museu Municipal (
%262 955 500; Solar da Praça de Santa Maria; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun) and the Santuário do Senhor da Pedra (Largo do Santuário; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Apr) are also worth a visit.
Óbidos in Two Days
With a second day to fill in Óbidos, perhaps head to the coast to catch some rays at Foz do Arelho. Alternatively soak up the atmosphere of this wonderful spot, dipping in and out of the boutiques, bookshops and cafes as you go.
Arriving in Óbidos
Bus stop On the main road just outside Porta da Vila.
Train station Handles trains to Lisbon. The station is located outside the northeastern section of the castle walls. It’s a pretty but uphill walk to town.
Sleeping
Although touristy, Óbidos has an excellent array of accommodations, from an atmospheric pousada to cosy guest houses and some cutting-edge boutique hotels.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Óbidos' Historic Centre
Aimless wandering is a delight in walled Óbidos, but the town does have some very worthwhile attractions. However, you'll need to be fit as there's a lot of climbing involved.
Great For…
yDon't Miss
It's possible to walk the entire circle of the town's walls.
8Need to Know
Óbidos' sights do not charge admission.
5Take a Break
Ja!mon Ja!mon is a great place for a bite to eat at lunchtime.
oTop Tip
Take care with children on the walls as many sections are unprotected.
Castelo, Walls and Aqueduct
If you've got the legs for it, you can take a stroll around the unprotected muro (wall) for uplifting views over the town and surrounding countryside. The walls date from Moorish times though they have been restored since; the castelo (castle) itself is one of Dom Dinis’ 13th-century creations. It’s a stern edifice, with lots of towers, battlements and big gates. It was converted into a palace in the 16th century (some Manueline touches add levity) but today it serves as a deluxe hotel, the Pousada do Castelo (%262 955 080; www.pousadas.pt; d/ste from €220/350; 
a
W).
The impressive 3km-long aqueduct, southeast of the main gate, dates from the 16th century. Unlike other aqueducts in Portugal, Óbidos' is fully intact and in remarkably serviceable condition. It once provided water to the town's fountains as well as drinking water to its residents.
Igreja de Santa Maria
The town’s elegant main church, near the northern end of Rua Direita, stands out for its interior, with a wonderful painted ceiling and walls done up in beautiful blue-and-white 17th-century azulejos (hand-painted tiles). Paintings by the renowned 17th-century painter Josefa de Óbidos are to the right of the altar. There’s a fine 16th-century Renaissance tomb on the left, probably carved by French sculptor Nicolas Chanterène. The church is closed on Mondays.
Museu Municipal
Located in an 18th-century manor house just next to Igreja de Santa Maria, the town’s museum houses a small collection of paintings spanning several centuries. The highlight is a haunting portrait by Josefa de Óbidos, Faustino das Neves (1670), remarkable for its dramatic use of light and shade.
Santuário do Senhor da Pedra
Below town this imposing, if a little ramshackle, church is an 18th-century baroque gem in need of some tender loving care. It's worth the stroll down here for the unusual hexagonal interior; in the altar is the stone sculpture of Christ crucified that gives the place its name.
History
When Dom Dinis first showed off Óbidos to his wife Dona Isabel in 1228, it must have already been a pretty impressive sight because she fell instantly in love with the place. The king decided to make the town a wedding gift to his queen, initiating a royal tradition that lasted until the 19th century.
Any grace it had in 1228 must be credited to the Moors, who had laid out the streets and had only recently abandoned the strategic heights. The Moors had chased out the Visigoths, who in turn had evicted the Romans, who also had a fortress here.
Until the 15th century Óbidos overlooked the sea; the bay gradually silted up, leaving the town landlocked.
Buddha Eden
What have the Taliban got to do with a rural winery 12km south of Óbidos? Well, when they blew up the Buddhas of Bamiyan in Afghanistan in 2001, the millionaire art collector José Berardo was so incensed at the wanton destruction of culture that he decided to do something to balance it out and created a large sculpture park on the grounds of his winery. The result, Buddha Eden (www.buddhaeden.com; Carvalhal; €3; h9am-6pm), is an astonishing sight, with monumental Buddhist statues standing proud above the cork trees, a phalanx of terracotta warriors looking down on a duck-filled lake, modern contemporary sculpture among the vines, and a little tourist train (adult/child €3/free) doing the rounds for the sore-of-foot. It's a great place to relax, and there's a cafe here, as well as a wine shop. To make a day of it, there's an appealing restaurant in the nearby village – Mãe d'Água (www.restaurantemaedagua.com; Rua 13 Maio 26, Sobral do Parelhão; mains €11-20; hnoon-4pm & 7pm-late Tue-Sun) does confident modern Portuguese fare in a contemporary setting within a noble old building.
To get here, take the A8 motorway south from Óbidos and exit at junction 12, then follow signs for Carvalhal.
5Eating
After years of catering to tourist crowds, Óbidos is coming into its own. There are a couple of decent eateries, including the contrasting, but equally delightful Ja!mon Ja!mon and Tasca Torta. The larger hotels, including the Pousada do Castelo, have good, if pricey, dining rooms.
Tasca TortaInternational$$
(%262 958 000; Rua Direita 81; mains €9-15; h12.30-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Wed-Mon)
A pleasant hum, appealing aromas and colourful plates sum up this stylish, contemporary spot. There's a cosy line of tables down one side, a kitchen on the other, and black-and-white photos of Portuguese fishermen. As for the cuisine? Everything from delicious salmon lasagne to a trilogy of octopuses. Delicious starters are arranged on a slate plate.
It's very much the 'in' place but with good reason.
Senhor da PedraPortuguese$
(Largo do Santuário; mains €6-9; h10am-10pm)
Behind the striking church of Senhor da Pedra below town, this simple white-tiled eatery (the one on the right as you look at the row of restaurants) is a recommended place to try low-priced authentic Portuguese cuisine. It's a classic affair with mum in the kitchen, and dad on the tables. Don't expect fast service.
The name isn't signed – it just says 'Snack Bar', but if these are snacks, we'd hate to see what they consider a full meal. Serves among the cheapest desserts in Portugal (€1.60 for a chocolate mousse and other sugary standards).
Petrarum DomusPortuguese$$
(%262 959 620; www.petrarumdomus.com; Rua Direita; mains €9-19; hnoon-3.30pm & 7-9.45pm)
Amid age-old stone walls, Petrarum has been churning out the same old menu for a while now. Think hearty dishes such as pork with mushrooms, mixed seafood sautés and several bacalhau (dried salt-cod) plates. There are plainer pastas for those wanting a change of Portuguese fare.
Ja!mon Ja!monPortuguese$
(%916 208 162; mains €5; h10am-late Tue-Sun)
Just outside Porta da Vila, before the tourism office, don't miss this cute little eatery. Six tables are crammed into a quaint room, a former padeiria (bakery), and fresh bread is baked in the woodfired oven (along with other dishes). Each day brings a small selection of daily specials. We suggest just sitting back and letting the experience happen.
With the cheery Andre and his family at the helm, the hospitality is oh-so Portuguese (read happy and generous). Come with time. And for a good time.
Comendador SilvaModern Portuguese$$
(%262 955 360; Rua Padre Nunes Tavares 6; mains €10-20; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun; W)
Attached to the Casa das Senhoras Rainhas hotel, this elegant restaurant is named after the Brazilian owner who took over the establishment. Serves up Portuguese dishes with a gourmet touch, including good organic pork dishes and polvo a lagareiro (octopus and potato; €16.50).
AlcaidePortuguese$$
(%262 959 220; Rua Direita 60; mains €12-17; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm)
Holding a place in history as Óbidos' first restaurant, this upstairs spot has windows overlooking the town and features creative dishes such as requinte de bacalhau (cod with cheese, chestnuts and apples). It's better than most of the main-street options.
Literary Óbidos
In recent years Óbidos has been reinventing itself as a literary centre: quirky and very atmospheric, themed bookshops abound and in 2015 it held Folio, its first literary festival, intended to be an annual event.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Óbidos has some atmospheric places for a late-night tipple.
Bar Cave Do Vale (Toupeiro)Bar
(Rua Dom João de Ornelas; h7pm-2am Mon-Fri, 4pm-2am Sat & Sun)
A true medieval drinking den (it's an underground 'cave') with dripping wax and stone walls. A fun bar on this street and as a place for a post-meal snifter. They serve their own 'toupeiro' (a fruit and wine mix).
Troca TintosBar
(Rua Dom João de Ornelas; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat)
A fado shawl and guitar on the wall sets the precedent for what's to come in this intimate space, a former chapel: a warm, friendly wine bar serving up a good selection of Portuguese wines, petiscos (tapas; €3 to €15) and live music, including fado on Monday evenings.
At other times, guests can choose what music plays.
Pousada do Castelo
One of Portugal’s most unusual pousadas occupies the town’s forbidding 13th-century castle. The rooms are within two sections – the castle (traditional decor), and the attached building known as 'the cottage' (more modern interiors). Reserve ahead for the split-level rooms in the two castle towers (warning: cosy, and not for claustrophobes) – especially the King D Dinis room, popular with honeymooners.
8Information
TurismoTourist Information
(%262 959 231; www.obidos.pt; h9.30am-7.30pm summer, to 6pm winter)
Just outside Porta da Vila, near the bus stop, with helpful multilingual staff offering town brochures and maps in five languages.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Buses stop on the main road just outside Porta da Vila. There are frequent departures for Peniche (€3.15, 40 minutes) and hourly buses on weekdays to Lisbon (€8.15, 65 minutes), plus five buses on Saturday and Sunday.
Train
There are at least six daily trains to Lisbon (€8.45 to €9.30, 2½ hours) mostly via connections at Mira Sintra-Meleças station on the suburban Lisbon line.