Sagres & Cabo de São Vicente
Sagres & Cabo de São Vicente
Overlooking some of the Algarve’s most dramatic scenery, the small, elongated village of Sagres has an end-of-the-world feel with its sea-carved cliffs and empty, wind-whipped fortress high above the frothing ocean. Its appeal lies in its sense of isolation, plus access to some fine beaches. The village has a laid-back vibe and simple, cheery cafes and bars, and it's become particularly popular in recent years with a surfing crowd.
Outside town, the striking cliffs of Cabo de São Vicente make for an enchanting visit. This is Europe's southwesternmost point, the last land America-bound sailors see as they head out into the Atlantic.
Sagres & Cabo do São Vicente in Two Days
The vast majority of visitors stay in Sagres, a place boasting some fine beaches. Spend your first day lounging around on the beach, heading to a seafood restaurant in the evening. On day two take a trip to Cabo do São Vicente to view one of the edges of the ancient world.
Sagres & Cabo de São Vicente in Four Days
Contact one of the local surfing companies, hire some gear and get out onto those rollers on day three. Day four could be spent exploring Sagres' huge Fortaleza de Sagres and hitting the surfer bars in the evening.
Arriving in Sagres
Bus stop The main bus stop for services to Cabo de São Vicente and Lagos is next to the tourist office.
Sleeping
Sagres has a few tourist hotels as well as private rooms and the odd B&B – things fill up here even off-season so booking ahead is often essential. Surfers often camp at special surf camps and campervans are a common sight parked by the roadside. The tourist office may be able to help with bookings.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Experiencing Portugal's Southwest Tip
There's an end-of-the-world feel at the southwesternmost extremity of the Portuguese mainland. Beyond the high cliffs and pounding surf stretches the vast Atlântico.
Great For…
yDon't Miss
It's possible to hike from Sagres to Cabo de São Vicente along a clifftop path.
8Need to Know
Sagres is 33km west of Lagos. Cabo de São Vicente is 5km west of Sagres.
5Take a Break
Sagres has several restaurants and cafes. A Casínha in Sagres is a traditional spot for lunch.
oTop Tip
Two buses run from Lagos to Cabo de São Vicente via Sagres.
Sagres
Surfers and tourists pack out tiny Sagres when the sun is shining, the former to catch some of the monster waves tumbling off the seething Atlantic, the latter using the place as a base to explore this far-flung chunk of the Algarve. The beaches around the town are superb and draw big crowds from May to September. Other than that, Sagres has some good eating options and a row of funky surfer cafe-bars, characterful places to hang out in the evenings, even if you've never set foot on a board.
Cabo de São Vicente
Five kilometres from Sagres, Europe’s southwesternmost point is a barren headland, the last piece of home that Portuguese sailors once saw as they launched into the unknown. It's a spectacular spot: at sunset you can almost hear the hissing as the sun hits the sea. A red lighthouse houses the small but excellent Museu dos Faróis.
A kilometre before reaching the lighthouse, you'll pass the Fortaleza do Beliche ( GOOGLE MAP ), built in 1632 on the site of an older fortress. The interior, once a hotel, is off-limits, but you can descend a pretty pathway down to near the water. The sheltering walls here make for a more appealing picnic spot than the wind-whipped cape.
History of the Cape
The cape – a revered place even in the time of the Phoenicians and known to the Romans as Promontorium Sacrum – takes its present name from a Spanish priest martyred by the Romans. It was here that Henry the Navigator, the monarch who launched Portugal's expansion into the Atlantic and the New World, is said to have founded a school of navigation, though the exact site is unknown. Many famous sea battles have taken place off the cape.
Surfing
Surfing is the reason many head down to Portugal's far southwest, most hoping to catch some of the curling waves that pound angrily against the beaches and cliffs. There's a great surfer vibe around the village, especially at night when weary, salt-encrusted surfers head out for some food and a few beers after a day riding the tide. There are several surfing schools and equipment hire centres in Sagres offering lessons for beginners and there's even a campsite set up specially for surfers. Other waterborn activities on offer include paddleboarding and off-shore wildlife spotting trips.
1Sights
Fortaleza de SagresFort
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%282 620 140; adult/child €3/1.50; 
h9.30am-6.30pm Apr, 9am-8pm May, Jun & Sep, 9am-8.30pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Oct-Mar)
Blank, hulking and forbidding, Sagres’ fortress offers breathtaking views over the sheer cliffs, and all along the coast to Cabo de São Vicente. According to legend, this is where Prince Henry the Navigator established his navigation school and primed the early Portuguese explorers. It's quite a large site, so allow at least an hour to see everything.
Inside the gate is a huge, curious stone pattern that measures 43m in diameter. Named the rosa dos ventos ( GOOGLE MAP ) (literally, a pictorial representation of a compass), this strange configuration is believed to be a mariner’s compass or a sundial of sorts. Excavated in 1921, the paving may date from Prince Henry’s time but is more likely to be from the 16th century.
The precinct’s oldest buildings include a cistern tower to the east, a house, and the small, whitewashed, 16th-century Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Graça ( GOOGLE MAP ), a simple barrel-vaulted structure with a gilded 17th-century altarpiece. Take a closer look at the tiled altar panels, which feature elephants and antelopes.
Many of the gaps you will see between buildings are the result of a 1960s spring clean of 17th- and 18th-century ruins that was organised to make way for a reconstruction (later aborted) that was to coincide with the 500th anniversary of Henry’s death.
It's a great walk around the perimeter of the promontory, information boards shedding light on the rich flora and fauna of the area. Don't miss the limestone crevices descending to the sea, or the labyrinth art installation by Portugal's famous sculpture-architect Pancho Guedes. Near the southern end of the promontory is a lighthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ). Death-defying anglers balance on the cliffs below the walls, hoping to land bream or sea bass.
At the time of research a huge, new and incongruously 21st-century visitors centre was being bolted together opposite the entrance. This will contain a gift shop, an exhibition centre and a cafe.
Museu dos FaróisMuseum
(
GOOGLE MAP
; adult/child €1.50/1; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar)
In the lighthouse complex at Cabo São Vicente, this small but excellent museum gives a good overview of Portugal’s maritime-navigation history, displays replica folios of a 1561 atlas and gives information on the history of the lighthouse.
Statue of Henry the NavigatorStatue
( GOOGLE MAP ; Rua Comandante Matoso)
Near the turismo stands this statue of Henry the Navigator, map in hand, pointing out to sea as if saying 'what are you waiting for, guys? It's all out there!'
2Activities
There are four good beaches a short drive or long walk from Sagres: Praia da Mareta, just below the town; lovely Praia do Martinhal to the east; Praia do Tonel on the other side of the Ponta de Sagres, and especially good for surfing; and the isolated Praia de Beliche, on the way to Cabo de São Vicente.
Surfing is possible at all beaches except Praia do Martinhal and nearby Praia da Baleeira. Several places offer surfing and bodyboarding lessons.
Sagres NaturaSurfing
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %282 624 072; www.sagresnatura.com; Rua São Vicente)
This recommended surf school also rents out bodyboards (€15 per day), surfboards (€20) and wetsuits (€10). It has bikes for hire (€10) and the same company also runs a surf-equipment shop and hostel.
Wave SensationsSurfing
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %282 625 154; www.wavesensations.pt; Rua Comandante Matoso)
Offers a range of lessons in surfing and paddleboarding, rents equipment and offers packages including accommodation at the Casa Azul hotel.
DiversCapeDiving
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %965 559 073; www.diverscape.com; Porto da Baleeira)
The PADI-certified DiversCape organises snorkelling expeditions (€25, two hours), plus dives of between 12m and 30m around shipwrecks. A dive and equipment costs €50/240/380 for one/six/10 dives, while the four-day PADI open-water course is €395. Beginners' courses (from €80) are available and there are even sessions for children aged over eight (€60).
Choosing a Surf School
The best way to choose a reputable surf school is to check the website of the Surf School Association of Costa Vicentina (www.algarvesurfschoolsassociation.com/). Schools listed here are registered and follow rules and regulations set out by the organisation.
TTours
Walkin’SagresWalking
(%925 545 515; www.walkinsagres.com)
Multilingual Ana Carla offers recommended guided walks in the Sagres area, explaining the history and other details of the surrounds. The walks head through pine forests to the cape’s cliffs, and vary from shorter 7.7km options (€25, three hours) to a longer 15km walk (€40, 4½ hours). There’s also a weekend walk for parents with young children (€15, children free).
In March and April you can walk among flowers, including orchids. Occasionally Ana takes themed walks, such as stargazing; see the website for details.
Cape CruiserBoating
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %919 751 175; www.capecruiser.org; Porto da Baleeira)
Offers a range of boat trips, including dolphin watching (€35, 1½ hours), seabird watching (€45, 2½ hours), trips to Cabo do São Vicente (€25, one hour) and various fishing excursions.
Mar IlimitadoBoating
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %916 832 625; www.marilimitado.com; Porto da Baleeira)
Mar Ilimitado, a team of marine biologists, offers a variety of highly recommended, ecologically sound boat trips, from dolphin spotting (€35, 1½ hours) and seabird watching (€45, 2½ hours) to excursions up to Cabo de São Vicente (€25, one hour).
Sea Xplorer SagresBoating
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %918 940 128; www.seaxplorersagres.com; Porto da Baleeira)
Leaving from the harbour in Sagres, Sea Xplorer boat trips include dolphin watching (€35, two hours), fishing (€45, three hours) and the cliffs of Cabo São Vicente from the sea (1½ hours, €20).
5Eating
Many places close or operate shorter hours during low season (November to April).
A Eira do MelPortuguese$$$
(%282 639 016; Estrada do Castelejo, Vila do Bispo; mains €16-22; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)
It’s worth driving 10km north of Sagres to Vila do Bispo to enjoy José Pinheiro's creations at this much-lauded slow-food restaurant. The meat leans towards the Algarvian; the seafood has a more contemporary touch. Think rabbit in red-wine sauce (€16), octopus cataplana (seafood stew) with sweet potatoes (€35 for two people), curried Atlantic wild shrimps (€22) and javali (wild boar; €17). Mouthwatering.
Vila VelhaInternational$$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %282 624 788; www.vilavelha-sagres.com; Rua Patrão António Faustino; mains €13-30; h6.30pm-midnight Tue-Sun; 
v)
In a stylish old house with a lovely mature garden in front, the upmarket, Dutch-owned Vila Velha offers consistently good seafood mains (go for the catch of the day), plus meat dishes such as rabbit and pork in mango sauce. It's more internationally flavoured than all of Sagres' other restaurants.
A CasínhaPortuguese$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %917 768 917; www.facebook.com/acasinha.restaurantesagres; Rua São Vicente; mains €13-19; h12.30-3pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat, closed Jan & Feb)
This cosy terracotta-and-white spot – built on the site of the owner's grandparents' house – serves up some fabulous Portuguese cuisine, including standout barbecued fish, a good variety of cataplanas for two (€34) and arroz de polvo (octopus rice). High quality, with a pleasant atmosphere.
A GrelhaPortuguese$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Comandante Matoso; mains €8-13; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat)
The nylon tablecloths, concrete floor and generally rough interior aren't that alluring, but the food, mainly grilled chicken and local fish, is tasty, honestly prepared and filling – and fairly cheap. It's popular with cash-strapped locals, always a good sign in these parts.
Mum'sInternational$$
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %968 210 411; www.mums-sagres.com; Rua Comandante Matoso; mains €10-18; h7pm-2am Wed-Mon; 
Wv)
This warm and cosy, eclectically decorated and friendly place on the main drag is a popular choice for dinner and drinks. The food – mostly vegetarian with some seafood – is delicious and wholesome. It has a good wine list and staff members are happy to recommend matches. It stays open for drinks after the kitchen closes at midnight. No cards.
Henry, Francis and the Great Earthquake
Somewhere near Sagres once stood Henry the Navigator's semi-monastic school of navigation, a place that specialised in cartography, astronomy and ship design, steering Portugal towards the Age of Discoveries. However nothing remains of this grand institution. English privateer Sir Francis Drake captured and wrecked Sagres in May 1587. The Great Earthquake of 1755 finished off the job.
6Drinking & Nightlife
It’s Groundhog Day (albeit a pleasant one) along Rua Comandante Matoso, with several atmospheric, good-value cafe-bars located cheek-to-cheek, the centre of Sagres' post-surfing nightlife scene.
Agua SalgadaBar
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %282 624 297; Rua Comandante Matoso; h10am-late; W)
Situated in a strip of cafe-bars, Agua Salgada has good crêpes and is one of the liveliest places at night, with DJs and a party mood.
DromedárioBar
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %282 624 219; Rua Comandante Matoso; h10am-late; W)
Sagres' original cafe-bar, Dromedário is still going strong (it's been here for well over 30 years). There's good food (try the burgers), karaoke and ‘mixology’, aka creative cocktails. The spacious, mildly Moorish-themed interior is a cool spot to hang out after a day on the waves.
Pau de PitaCafe
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Rua Comandante Matoso; h10am-2am; W)
The funkiest of its neighbours in the bar strip (at least in terms of its design), this place has great salads, crêpes and juices (snacks €4 to €10), all enjoyed to a chilled-out soundtrack. At night, it mixes decent drinks and is as lively as any of the other bars, with a good post-surfing vibe.
8Information
TurismoTourist Information
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %282 624 873; www.cm-viladobispo.pt; Rua Comandante Matoso; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sat, extended hours summer)
Situated on a patch of green lawn, 100m east of Praça da República. Buses stop nearby.
E9 European Long Distance Path
The Cabo de São Vicente is still the launchpad for journeys of exploration, but unlike the sailors of yore who ploughed the waves towards unknown horizons, modern-day explorers head the opposite direction – the cape is the terminus of the E9 European Long Distance Path, a walking trail that concludes over 5000km later in Estonia! The path follows the coasts of Portugal, Spain, Britain, France and the Low Countries before heading along the Baltic coast. An extension as far as St Petersburg is planned.
8Getting There & Away
The bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ; Rua Comandante Matoso) is by the turismo. You can buy tickets on the bus.
Buses come from Lagos via Salema (€3.85, one hour, six daily). On weekends there are fewer services. It’s only 10 minutes to Cabo de São Vicente (twice daily on weekdays only; €2).
Where to Stay
Sagres fills up in summer, though it’s marginally easier to find accommodation here than in the rest of the Algarve during high season, thanks in part to the number of informal ‘hostels’ and the private houses that advertise rooms or apartments. Doubles cost around €40, flats €45 to €80.
Elsewhere prices can halve outside high season, including at the top-end options.
It is possible to visit the area on a day trip from Lagos or resorts even further east along the Algarve coast, especially if you have a hire car. By bus it's tricky as just two services a day run all the way to Cabo de São Vicente.
8Getting Around
Handy bike rental is available at Sagres Natura and also at Maretta Shop (
GOOGLE MAP
; %282 624 535; www.marettashop.com; Rua Comandante Matoso; h9.30am-10.30pm).