Survival Guide
Directory A–Z
Accommodation
Bargaining
Climate
Customs Regulations
Electricity
Etiquette
Food
Health
Health Hazards
Insurance
Internet Access
Legal Matters
LGBTIQ Travellers
Maps
Money
Opening Hours
Post
Public Holidays
Safe Travel
Taxes & Refunds
Telephone
Time
Toilets
Tourist Information
Travellers with Disabilities
Visas
Women Travellers
Transport
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Language
Directory A–Z
i
Accommodation
Although you can usually show up in any town and find a room on the spot, it's worthwhile booking ahead, especially for July and August.
Book Your Stay Online
For more accomodation reviews by Lonely Planet writers, check out, www.lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You'll find independent reviews, as well as recommendations on the best places to stay. Best of all you can book online.
Accommodation Types
oGuest houses Small, often family-run places, some set in historic buildings; amenities range from simple to luxurious.
oHostels Portugal has a growing network of hostels around the country, with many choices in Lisbon and Porto.
oTurihab Properties Options to stay in characterful manor houses, restored farmhouses or self-contained stone cottages.
oPousadas Unique accommodation inside former castles, monasteries and estates; nearly three dozen pousadas are spread across the country.
oPrivate rooms and apartments Loads of online listings throughout Portugal.
Seasons
In popular tourist destinations prices rise and fall with the seasons. Mid-June to mid-September are firmly high season (book well ahead); May to mid-June and mid-September to October are midseason; and other times are low season, when you can get some really good deals. Outside the resorts, prices don’t vary much between seasons.
In the Algarve, you’ll pay the highest premium for rooms from mid-July to the end of August, with slightly lower prices from June to mid-July and in September, and substantially less (as much as 50%) if you travel between November and April. Note that a handful of places in the Algarve close in winter.
Price Ranges
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom in high season. Unless otherwise stated breakfast is included in the price.
Turihab Properties
These charming properties are part of a government scheme, through which you can stay in a farmhouse, manor house, country estate or rustic cottage as the owner’s guest.
High-season rates for two people, either in a double room or a cottage, range from €70 to €140. Some properties have swimming pools, and most include breakfast (often with fresh local produce).
There are three types of Turihab lodgings:
Aldeias de Portugal (www.aldeiasdeportugal.pt) Lodging in rural villages in the north, often in beautifully converted stone cottages.
Casas no Campo (www.casasnocampo.net) Country houses, cottages and luxury villas.
Solares de Portugal (www.solaresdeportugal.pt) Grand manor houses, some of which date from the 17th or 18th century.
Bargaining
Gentle haggling is common in markets (less so in produce markets); in all other instances you’re expected to pay the stated price.
Climate
E
Customs Regulations
You can bring as much currency as you like into Portugal, though €10,000 or more must be declared.
The duty-free allowance for travellers more than 17 years old from non-EU countries:
o200 cigarettes or the equivalent in tobacco.
o1L of alcohol that’s more than 22% alcohol, or 2L of wine or beer.
Allowance for nationals of EU countries:
o800 cigarettes or the equivalent.
o10L of spirits, 20L of fortified wine, 60L of sparkling wine or a mind-boggling 90L of still wine or 110L of beer.
R
Electricity
Portugal uses 230V/50Hz supply. Plugs are the two-pinned European variety.
Etiquette
oGreetings When greeting females or mixed company, an air kiss on both cheeks is common courtesy. Men give each other a handshake.
oVisiting churches It is considered disrespectful to visit churches as a tourist during Mass. Taking photos at such a time is definitely inappropriate.
o'Free' appetisers Whatever you eat, you must pay for, whether or not you ordered it. It's common practice for restaurants to bring bread, olives, cheese and other goodies to the table, but these are never free and will be added to your bill at the end. If you don't want them, a polite 'No, thank you' will see them returned to the kitchen.
k
Food
The following price ranges refer to a standard main dish:
F
Health
Portugal has a high-quality healthcare system, with pharmacies and doctors readily available countrywide. Most pharmacists speak some English. They can also advise when more specialised help is required and point you in the right direction.
Citizens of the EU are eligible for free emergency medical treatment if they have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC). Citizens from other countries should find out if there is a reciprocal arrangement for free medical care between their country and Portugal.
Tap water is generally safe to drink in Portugal.
Travel Health Websites
It’s a good idea to consult your government’s travel-health website before departure, if one is available:
oAustralia (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)
oCanada (www.travel.gc.ca)
oUK (www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk)
oUSA (http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel)
Health Hazards
Heat Exhaustion & Heat Stroke
Be mindful of heat exhaustion, particularly on hot summer days in the Algarve, and when engaging in vigorous outdoor activities anywhere in the country during the hottest months. Heat exhaustion occurs following excessive fluid loss with inadequate replacement of fluids and salt. Symptoms include headache, dizziness and tiredness. To treat heat exhaustion, replace lost fluids by drinking water and/or fruit juice or an oral rehydration solution, such as Dioralyte, and cool the body with cold water and fans.
Heat stroke is much more serious, resulting in irrational and hyperactive behaviour and eventually loss of consciousness and death. Rapid cooling by spraying the body with water and fanning is ideal. Emergency fluid and electrolyte replacement by intravenous drip is recommended.
Jellyfish & Sea Urchins
In general, jellyfish aren't a major problem in Portuguese waters, though there are rare sightings along the southern beaches. Stings from jellyfish are painful but not dangerous. Douse the wound in vinegar to deactivate any stingers that haven’t ‘fired’. Applying calamine lotion, antihistamines or analgesics may reduce the reaction and relieve the pain.
Watch for sea urchins around rocky beaches. If you get their needles embedded in your skin, immerse the limb in hot water to relieve the pain. To avoid infection visit a doctor and have the needles removed.
Q
Insurance
Don’t leave home without a travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems. You should get insurance for the worst-case scenario; for example, an accident or illness requiring hospitalisation and a flight home.
Check the small print as some policies specifically exclude ‘dangerous activities’ such as scuba diving, motorcycling or even trekking. If these activities are in your sights, either find another policy or ask about an amendment (usually available for an extra premium) that includes them.
Make sure you keep all documentation for any claims later on. Some policies ask you to call back (reverse charges) to a centre in your home country, where an immediate assessment of your problem is made.
Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend and claim online any time – even if you’re already on the road.
I
Internet Access
Wi-fi access is widespread in Portugal. If you have your own laptop, most hotels, hostels and midrange guest houses offer free wireless access. Many cafes and some restaurants also offer free wi-fi. Cybercafes are now rare.
We use the icon @ to indicate places that have a physical computer where guests can access the internet; the wi-fi icon indicates where wireless access is available.
Other options:
oBibliotecas municipais Municipal libraries.
oRede de Espaços Internet (www.rededeespacosinternet.pt) Municipally run spaces where you can get online for free.
H
Legal Matters
oFines for illegal parking are common. If you’re parked illegally you’ll be towed and will have to pay around €100 to get your car back. Be aware of local road rules, as fines for other transgressions will also be enforced.
oIt’s illegal in Portugal to drive while talking on a mobile phone.
oNarcotic drugs were decriminalised in 2001 in an attempt to clear up the public-health problems among drug users, and to address the issue as a social rather than a criminal one. You may be brought before a commission and subject to fines or treatment if you are caught with up to 10 doses of a drug.
oDrug dealing is still a serious offence and suspects may be held for up to 18 months before coming to trial. Bail is at the court’s discretion.
LGBTIQ Travellers
In 2010 Portugal legalised gay marriage, becoming the sixth European country to do so. Most Portuguese profess a laissez-faire attitude about same-sex couples, although how out you can be depends on where you are in Portugal. In Lisbon, Porto and the Algarve, acceptance has increased, whereas in most other areas, same-sex couples would be met with incomprehension. In this conservative Catholic country, homosexuality is still outside the norm. And while homophobic violence is extremely rare, discrimination has been reported in schools and workplaces.
Lisbon has the country’s best gay and lesbian network and nightlife. Lisbon and Porto hold Gay Pride marches, but outside these events the gay community keeps a discreet profile.
Y
Maps
National and natural park offices usually have simple park maps, though these are of little use for trekking or cycling. The following offer a good range of maps:
Omni Resources (www.omnimap.com) US company that sells excellent maps, including 1:25,000 topographic maps.
Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) Good selection of Portugal maps and travel products in the UK.
a
Money
Portugal uses the euro, along with most other European nations.
ATMs
ATMs are the easiest way to get cash in Portugal, and they are easy to find in most cities and towns. Tiny rural villages probably won't have ATMs, so it's wise to get cash in advance. Most banks have a Multibanco ATM, with menus in English (and other languages), that accept Visa, Access, MasterCard, Cirrus and so on. You just need your card and PIN. Keep in mind that the ATM limit is €200 per withdrawal, and many banks charge a foreign transaction fee (typically around 2% to 3%).
Changing Money
Note that banks and bureaux de change are free to set their own rates and commissions, so a low commission might mean a skewed exchange rate.
Credit Cards
Most hotels and smarter restaurants accept credit cards; smaller guest houses, budget hotels and smaller restaurants might not, so it's wise to have cash with you.
Tipping
oBars Not expected unless table service is provided, then around 10%.
oHotels One euro per bag is standard; gratuity for cleaning staff is at your discretion.
oRestaurants 10% on average, up to 15% in pricier places.
oSnack bars It's courteous to leave a bit of spare change.
oTaxis Not expected, but it's polite to round up to the nearest euro.
J
Opening Hours
Opening hours vary throughout the year. We provide high-season opening hours; hours will generally decrease in the shoulder and low seasons.
Banks 8.30am to 3pm Monday to Friday
Bars 7pm to 2am
Cafes 9am to 7pm
Clubs 11pm to 4am Thursday to Saturday
Restaurants noon to 3pm and 7pm to 10pm
Shopping malls 10am to 10pm
Shops 9.30am to noon and 2pm to 7pm Monday to Friday, 10am to 1pm Saturday
Post
Post offices are called CTT (www.ctt.pt). Correio normal (ordinary mail) goes in the red letterboxes, correio azul (airmail) goes in the blue boxes. Automated red postal stands dispense stamps, saving you the hassle of waiting in line at the post office. Post to Europe takes up to five working days, and the rest of the world up to seven. Economy mail (or surface airlift) is about a third cheaper, but takes a week or so longer.
w
Public Holidays
Banks, offices, department stores and some shops close on the public holidays listed here. On New Year’s Day, Easter Sunday, Labour Day and Christmas Day, even turismos close.
New Year’s Day 1 January
Carnaval Tuesday February/March – the day before Ash Wednesday
Good Friday March/April
Liberty Day 25 April
Labour Day 1 May
Corpus Christi May/June – ninth Thursday after Easter
Portugal Day 10 June – also known as Camões and Communities Day
Feast of the Assumption 15 August
Republic Day 5 October
All Saints’ Day 1 November
Independence Day 1 December
Feast of the Immaculate Conception 8 December
Christmas Day 25 December
L
Safe Travel
oOnce behind the wheel of a car, the otherwise mild-mannered Portuguese change personality. Macho driving, such as tailgating at high speeds and overtaking on blind corners, is all too common. Portugal has one of the highest road accident rates in Europe. Police have responded by aggressively patrolling certain dangerous routes, such as on the cheerfully named ‘highway of death’ from Salamanca in Spain.
oCompared with other European countries, Portugal’s crime rate remains low, but some types of crime – including car theft – are on the rise. Crime against foreigners is of the usual rush-hour-pickpocketing, bag-snatching and theft-from-rental-cars variety. Take the usual precautions: don’t flash your cash; keep valuables in a safe place; and, if you're challenged, hand it over – it’s not worth taking the risk.
oTake care in the water; the surf can be strong, with dangerous ocean currents.
Government Travel Advice
The following government websites offer travel advisories and information on current hot spots.
oAustralian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.smarttraveller.gov.au)
oBritish Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice)
oCanadian Department of Foreign Affairs (www.travel.gc.ca)
oUS State Department (http://travel.state.gov)
a
Taxes & Refunds
Prices in Portugal almost always include 23% VAT (some basic food stuffs and services carry reduced rates of 6% and 13%, respectively). Non-EU passport holders can claim back the VAT on goods from participating retailers – be sure to ask for the tax back forms and get them stamped by customs. Refunds are processed at the airport or via post.
K
Telephone
To call Portugal from abroad, dial the international access code (00), then Portugal’s country code (351), then the number. All domestic numbers have nine digits, and there are no area codes. Most public phones accept phone cards only – available at most news stands – though a few coin-operated phones are still around. You can also make calls from booths in Portugal Telecom offices and some post offices – pay when your call is finished.
Long-distance and international calls are cheaper from 9pm to 9am weekdays, all weekend and on holidays.
The cheapest way to call within Portugal is with a Portugal Telecom cartão telefónico (phone card). These are available for €3, €5 and €10 from post and telephone offices and many newsagents. A youth or student card should get you a 10% discount.
Local calls cost around €0.10 per minute to land lines and €0.30 per minute to mobile phones. Numbers starting with 800 (linha verde; green line) are toll free. Those starting with 808 (linha azul; blue line) are charged at local rates from anywhere in the country.
Mobile phones
Local SIM cards can be used in unlocked European, Australian and quad-band US mobiles. Portugal uses the GSM 900/1800 frequency, the same as found in Australia, the UK and the rest of the EU. Mobile-phone usage is widespread in Portugal, with extensive coverage provided in all but the most rural areas. The main domestic operators are Vodafone, Optimus and TMN. All of them sell prepaid SIM cards that you can insert into a GSM mobile phone and use as long as the phone is not locked by the company providing you service. If you need a phone, you can buy one at the airport and shops throughout the country with a package of minutes for under €20. This is generally cheaper than renting a phone.
W
Time
Portugal, like Britain, is on GMT/UTC in winter and GMT/UTC plus one hour in summer. This puts it an hour earlier than Spain year-round. Clocks are set forward by an hour on the last Sunday in March and back on the last Sunday in October.
G
Toilets
Finding public toilets in major cities such as Lisbon and Porto can be difficult. Most towns and villages that draw tourists usually have free public toilets. The mercado municipal (municipal market) often has free toilets. These are generally fairly clean and adequately maintained. In more built-up areas, your best bet is to look for a toilet in a shopping centre, or simply duck into a cafe.
C
Tourist Information
oTurismo de Portugal, the country’s national tourist board, operates a handy website: www.visitportugal.com.
oLocally managed postos de turismo (tourist offices, usually signposted ‘turismo’) are everywhere, offering brochures and varying degrees of help with sights and accommodation.
M
Travellers with Disabilities
oThe term deficientes (Portuguese for 'disabled') gives some indication of the limited awareness of disabled needs. Although public offices and agencies are required to provide access and facilities for people with disabilities, private businesses are not.
oLisbon airport is wheelchair accessible, while Porto and Faro airports have accessible toilets.
oParking spaces are allotted in many places, but are frequently occupied. The EU parking card entitles visitors to the same street-parking concessions given to disabled residents. If you’re in the UK, contact the Department for Transport (
%020-7944 8300; www.gov.uk/browse/disabilities).
oNewer and larger hotels tend to have some adapted rooms, though the facilities may not be up to scratch; ask at the local turismo. Most campgrounds have accessible toilets and some hostels have facilities for people with disabilities.
oLisbon, with its cobbled streets and hills, may be difficult for some travellers with disabilities, but not impossible. The Baixa’s flat grid and Belém are fine, and all the sights at Parque das Nações are accessible.
Download Lonely Planet's free Accessible Travel guide from http://lptravel.to/AccessibleTravel, or for more information, contact:
Accessible Portugal (
GOOGLE MAP
; %926 910 989; www.accessibleportugal.com; Rua Jorge Barradas 50, 4th fl) This Lisbon-based tour agency offers a wide range of itineraries and can arrange accommodation, transfers, overnight trips and outdoor activities such as tandem skydiving and hot-air balloon trips.
Cooperativa Nacional de Apoio Deficientes (
GOOGLE MAP
; %218 595 332; www.facebook.com/cooperativa.deficientes; Praça Dr Fernando Amado, Lote 566-E, Lisbon) This is a private organisation that can help with travel needs.
Secretaria do Nacional de Reabilitação (
GOOGLE MAP
; %217 929 500; www.inr.pt; Av Conde de Valbom 63, Lisbon) The national governmental organisation representing people with disabilities supplies information, provides links to useful operations and publishes guides (in Portuguese) that advise on barrier-free accommodation, transport, shops, restaurants and sights.
E
Visas
Nationals of EU countries don’t need a visa for any length of stay in Portugal. Those from Canada, New Zealand, the USA and (by temporary agreement) Australia can stay for up to 90 days in any six month period without a visa. Others, including nationals of South Africa, need a visa unless they’re the spouse or child of an EU citizen.
The general requirements for entry into Portugal also apply to citizens of other signatories of the 1990 Schengen Convention (Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Iceland, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Norway, Spain and Sweden). A visa issued by one Schengen country is generally valid for travel in all the others, but unless you’re a citizen of the UK, Ireland or a Schengen country, you should check visa regulations with the consulate of each Schengen country you plan to visit. You must apply for any Schengen visa while you are still in your country of residence.
O
Women Travellers
oWomen travelling alone in Portugal report few serious problems. As when travelling anywhere, women should take care – be cautious where you walk after dark and don’t hitch.
oIf you’re travelling with a male partner, people will expect him to do all the talking and ordering, and pay the bill. In some conservative pockets of the north, unmarried couples will save hassle by saying they’re married.
oIf you’re a victim of violence or rape while you’re in Portugal, you can contact the Associação Portuguesa de Apoio à Vítima (APAV, Portuguese Association for Victim Support;
GOOGLE MAP
; %213 587 900; www.apav.pt; Rua José Estêvão 135), which offers assistance for rape victims. Visit the website for office locations nationwide.
Transport
An increasingly popular destination, Portugal is well connected to North America and European countries by air. There are also handy overland links by bus and train to and from Spain, from where you can continue on to other destinations on the continent.
Flights, cars and tours can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
(
Getting There & Away
Air
Most international flights arrive in Lisbon, though Porto and Faro also receive some. For more information, including live arrival and departure schedules, see www.ana.pt.
TAP (www.flytap.com) is Portugal’s international flag carrier as well as its main domestic airline. The three main airports in Portugal are Faro Airport (FAO;
GOOGLE MAP
; %289 800 800; www.ana.pt; 
W), Lisbon Airport (Lisbon Airport;
GOOGLE MAP
; %218 413 700; www.ana.pt; Alameda das Comunidades Portuguesas) and Porto Airport (OPO; %229 432 400; www.ana.pt).
Land
Portugal shares a land border only with Spain, but there is both bus and train service linking the two countries, with onward connections to the rest of mainland Europe.
Bus
The major long-distance carriers that serve European destinations are Busabout (www.busabout.com) and Eurolines (www.eurolines.com); though these carriers serve Portugal, it is not currently included in the multicity travel passes of either company.
For some European routes, Eurolines is affiliated with the big Portuguese operators Internorte (%707 200 512; www.internorte.pt) and Eva Transportes (%289 899 760; www.eva-bus.com).
Car & Motorcycle
If you’re driving your own car or motorcycle into Portugal, you need the following:
ovehicle registration (proof of ownership)
oinsurance documents
omotor vehicle insurance with at least third-party cover
Train
Trains are a popular way to get around Europe – comfortable, frequent and generally on time. But unless you have a rail pass the cost can be higher than flying.
You will have few problems buying long-distance tickets as little as a day or two ahead, even in the summer. For those intending to do a lot of European rail travel, the European Rail Timetable (www.europeanrailtimetable.co.uk) is updated monthly and is available for sale as a digital download on the website. Another excellent resource for train travel around Europe (and beyond) is the Man in Seat Sixty-One website (www.seat61.com).
The Portugal-Spain rail pass (www.raileurope.com) is available only to non-European residents and is valid for a specified period of travel in Spain and Portugal during a two-month period, from four days (US$294) to 10 days (US$480). First-class tickets cost about 25% more.
River
Transporte Fluvial del Guadiana (www.rioguadiana.net) operates car ferries across the Rio Guadiana between Ayamonte in Spain and Vila Real de Santo António in the Algarve every hour (half-hourly in the summer) from 8.30am to 7pm Monday to Saturday, and from 9.30am to 6pm on Sunday. Buy tickets from the waterfront office (€1.80/5.50/1.15 per person/car/bike).
Sea
There are no scheduled seagoing ferries to Portugal, but many to Spain. The closest North African ferry connections are from Morocco to Spain; contact Trasmediterranea (www.trasmediterranea.es) for details. Car ferries also run from Tangier to Gibraltar. There have been rumblings recently that the ferry from Portimão to Madeira and the Canary Islands may be reinstated.
Climate Change & Travel
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aero- planes, which might use less fuel per kilometre per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generat- ed by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
P
Getting Around
Transport in Portugal is reasonably priced, quick and efficient. Most journeys are taken by bus as the rail network doesn't reach everywhere.
Air
Flights within mainland Portugal are expensive and, for the short distances involved, not really worth considering. Nonetheless, TAP (www.flytap.com) has multiple daily Lisbon–Porto and Lisbon–Faro flights (taking less than one hour) year-round. For Porto to Faro, change in Lisbon.
Bicycle
Cycling is popular in Portugal, even though there are few dedicated bicycle paths. Possible itineraries are numerous in the mountainous national/natural parks of the north (especially Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês), along the coast or across the Alentejo plains. Coastal trips are easiest from north to south, with the prevailing winds. More demanding is the Serra da Estrela (which serves as the Tour de Portugal’s ‘mountain run’). You could also try the Serra do Marão between Amarante and Vila Real.
Local bike clubs organise regular Passeio BTT trips; check their flyers at rental agencies, bike shops and turismos. Guided trips are often available in popular tourist destinations.
Cobbled roads in some old-town centres may jar your teeth loose if your tyres aren’t fat enough; they should be at least 38mm in diameter.
There are numerous places to rent bikes, especially in the Algarve and other touristy areas. Prices range from €8 to €25 per day.
Boxed or bagged-up bicycles can be taken free on all regional and interregional trains as accompanied baggage. They can also go unboxed on a few suburban services on weekends or for a small charge outside the rush hour. Most domestic bus lines won’t accept bikes on board.
Boat
Other than river cruises along the Rio Douro from Porto, and the Rio Tejo from Lisbon, Portugal’s only remaining waterborne transport are cross-river ferries. Commuter ferries include those across the Rio Tejo to/from Lisbon, and across the mouth of the Rio Sado between Setúbal and Tróia.
Bus
A host of small private bus operators, most amalgamated into regional companies, run a dense network of services across the country. Among the largest are Rede Expressos (%707 223 344; www.rede-expressos.pt), Rodonorte (%259 340 710; www.rodonorte.pt) and the Algarve-line Eva Transportes (www.eva-bus.com).
Bus services are of four general types:
Alta Qualidade A fast deluxe category offered by some companies.
Carreiras Marked ‘CR’; slow, stopping at every crossroad.
Expressos Comfortable, fast buses between major cities.
Rápidas Quick regional buses.
Even in summer you’ll have little problem booking an expresso ticket for the same or next day. A Lisbon–Faro express bus takes about four hours and costs €18.50; Lisbon–Porto takes about 3½ hours for around €19. By contrast, local services can thin out to almost nothing on weekends, especially in summer when school is out.
Don’t rely on turismos for accurate timetable information. Most bus-station ticket desks will give you a little computer printout of fares and services.
Except in Lisbon or Porto, there’s little reason to take municipal buses, as most attractions are within walking distance.
Car & Motorcycle
Portugal’s modest network of estradas (highways) is gradually spreading across the country. Main roads are sealed and generally in good condition. The downside is your fellow drivers: the country’s per-capita death rate from road accidents has long been one of Europe’s highest, and drinking, driving and dying are hot political potatoes. The good news is that recent years have seen a steady decline in the road toll, thanks to a zero-tolerance police crackdown on accident-prone routes and alcohol limits.
Driving can be tricky in Portugal’s small walled towns, where roads may taper to donkey-cart size before you know it, and fiendish one-way systems can force you out of your way.
A common occurrence in larger towns is down-and-outers, who lurk around squares and car parks, waving you into the parking space you’ve just found for yourself, and asking for payment for this service. It’s wise to do as Portuguese do, and hand over some coins (€0.50) to keep your car out of ‘trouble’ (scratches, broken windows, etc).
Automobile Associations
Automóvel Club de Portugal (ACP; %213 180 100, 24hr emergency assistance 808 222 222; www.acp.pt), Portugal’s national auto club, provides medical, legal and breakdown assistance for its members. Road information and maps are available to anyone at ACP offices, including the head office in Lisbon and branches in Aveiro, Braga, Bragança, Coimbra, Évora, Faro, Porto and elsewhere.
If your national auto club belongs to the Fédération Internationale de l’Automobile or the Alliance Internationale de Tourisme, you can also use ACP’s emergency services and get discounts on maps and other products. Among clubs that qualify are the AA and RAC in the UK, and the Australian, New Zealand, Canadian and US automobile associations.
Driving Licences
Nationals of EU countries, the USA and Brazil need only their home driving licence to operate a car or motorcycle in Portugal. Others should get an International Driving Permit (IDP) through an automobile licencing department or automobile club in their home country.
Fuel
Fuel is expensive – about €1.50 for a litre of sem chumbo (unleaded petrol) at the time of writing. There are plenty of self-service stations, and credit cards are accepted at most. If you’re near the border, you can save money by filling up in Spain, where it’s around 20% cheaper.
Motorways & Tolls
Top of the range roads are auto-estradas (motorways), all of them portagens (toll roads); the longest of these are Lisbon–Porto and Lisbon–Algarve. Toll roads charge cars and motorcycles a little over €0.06 per kilometre (around €20 from Lisbon to Porto and €19 from Lisbon to Faro).
Nomenclature can be baffling. Motorway prefixes indicate the following:
A Portugal’s toll roads.
E Europe-wide designations.
N Main two-lane estradas nacionais (national roads); prefix letter used on some road maps only.
IC (itinerário complementar) Subsidiary highways.
IP (itinerário principal) Main highways.
Note that Portugal's main toll roads now have automated toll booths, meaning you won't be able to simply drive through and pay an attendant. You'll need to hire an electronic tag to pay for the tolls. Many car-rental agencies hire out the small electronic devices (for around €6 per week, less on subsequent weeks), and it's worth inquiring if one is available before renting a car. If you don't use the device, and go through a toll, you may receive a fine (via your car-hire agency) after your trip. The other option is simply to avoid the auto-estradas, which isn't always easy to do, especially when travelling across the Algarve.
For more information, including locations where you can hire electronic tag devices throughout the country (useful if your car hire doesn't have them or you're driving your own vehicle), contact government-run Via Verde (%707 500 900; www.viaverde.pt).
Hire
oTo rent a car in Portugal you should be at least 25 years old and have held your driving licence for more than a year (some companies allow younger drivers at higher rates). The widest choice of car-hire companies is at Lisbon, Porto and Faro airports. Competition has driven Algarve rates lower than elsewhere.
oSome of the best advance-booking rates are offered by internet-based brokers such as Holiday Autos (www.holidayautos.com). Other bargains come as part of ‘fly/drive’ packages. The worst deals tend to be those done with international firms on arrival, though their prepaid promotional rates are competitive. Book at least a few days ahead in high season. For on-the-spot rental, domestic firms such as Auto Jardim (www.auto-jardim.com) have some of the best rates.
oThe average price for renting the smallest and cheapest available car for a week in high season is around €300 (with tax, insurance and unlimited mileage) if booked from abroad, and a similar amount through a Portuguese firm.
oFor an additional fee you can get personal insurance through the rental company, unless you’re covered by your home policy. A minimum of third-party coverage is compulsory in the EU.
oRental cars are especially at risk of break-ins or petty theft in larger towns, so don’t leave anything of value visible in the car.
oMotorcycles and scooters can be rented in larger cities, and all over coastal Algarve. Expect to pay from €30/60 per day for a scooter/motorcycle.
Insurance
Your home insurance policy may or may not be extendable to Portugal, and the coverage of some comprehensive policies automatically drops to third party outside your home country unless the insurer is notified.
If you hire a car, the rental firm will provide you with registration and insurance papers, plus a rental contract.
If you are involved in a minor ‘fender bender’ with no injuries, the easiest way for drivers to sort things out with their insurance companies is to fill out a Constat Aimable (the English version is called a European Accident Statement). There’s no risk in signing this: it’s just a way to exchange the relevant information and there’s usually one included in rental-car documents. Make sure it includes any details that may help you prove that the accident was not your fault. To alert the police, dial 112.
Parking
Parking is often metered within city centres, but is free on Saturday evening and Sunday. Lisbon has car parks, but these can get expensive (upwards of €20 per day).
Road Rules
oDespite the sometimes chaotic relations between drivers, there are rules. To begin with, driving is on the right, overtaking is on the left and most signs use international symbols. An important rule to remember is that traffic from the right usually has priority. Portugal has lots of ambiguously marked intersections, so this is more important than you might think.
oExcept when marked otherwise, speed limits for cars (without a trailer) and motorcycles (without a sidecar) are 50km/h in towns and villages, 90km/h outside built-up areas and 120km/h on motorways. By law, car safety belts must be worn in the front and back seats, and children under 12 years may not ride in the front. Motorcyclists and their passengers must wear helmets, and motorcycles must have their headlights on day and night.
oThe police can impose steep on-the-spot fines for speeding and parking offences, so save yourself a big hassle and remember to toe the line.
oThe legal blood-alcohol limit is 0.5g/L, and there are fines of up to €2500 for drink-driving. It’s also illegal in Portugal to drive while talking on a mobile phone.
Hitching
Hitching is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. In any case it isn’t an easy option in Portugal. Almost nobody stops on major highways, and on smaller roads drivers tend to be going short distances so you might only advance from one field to the next.
Local Transport
Almost all Portugal's larger towns have a city bus service linking the city centre with outlying suburbs and villages. Fares are low, but services fall away on Saturday afternoons and Sundays. Lisbon has a famous tram system with vintage cars climbing the steep streets of the city centre. Lisbon and Porto also have a metro. Portugal loves cable cars – using them can save you a lot of walking but they are expensive relative to the rest of the public transport system.
Taxi & Rideshare Services
oTaxis offer fair value over short distances, and are plentiful in large towns and cities. Ordinary taxis are usually marked with an ‘A’ (which stands for aluguer, for hire) on the door, number plate or elsewhere. They use meters and are available on the street and at taxi ranks, or by telephone for a surcharge of €0.80.
oThe fare on weekdays during daylight hours is about €3.25 bandeirada (flag fall) plus around €0.80 per kilometre, and a bit more for periods spent idling in traffic. A fare of €6 will usually get you across bigger towns. It’s best to insist on the meter, although it’s possible to negotiate a flat fare. If you have a sizeable load of luggage you’ll pay a further €1.60.
oRates are about 20% higher at night (9pm to 6am), and on weekends and holidays. Once a taxi leaves the city limits you also pay a surcharge or higher rate.
oIn larger cities, including Lisbon and Porto, meterless taxis marked with a T (for turismo) can be hired from private companies for excursions. Rates for these are higher but standardised; drivers are honest and polite, and speak foreign languages.
oUber is available in Lisbon and Porto.
Train
Portugal has an extensive railroad network, making for a scenic way of travelling between destinations; see www.cp.pt.
Discounts
oChildren aged under five travel free; those aged five to 12 go for half price.
oA youth card issued by Euro26 member countries gets you a 20% discount on regional and interregional services on any day. For distances above 100km, you can also get a 20% discount on intercidade (express) services and a 10% discount on Alfa Pendular (AP) trains – though the latter applies only from Tuesday to Thursday.
oTravellers aged 65 and over can get 50% off any service by showing some ID.
Information & Reservations
oYou can get hold of timetable and fare information at all stations and from www.cp.pt.
oYou can book intercidade and Alfa Pendular tickets up to 30 days ahead, though you’ll have little trouble booking for the next or even the same day. Other services can only be booked 24 hours in advance.
oA seat reservation is mandatory on most intercidade and Alfa trains; the booking fee is included in the price.
Train Passes
The One Country Portugal Pass from InterRail (www.interrail.eu) gives you unlimited travel on any three, four, six or eight days over a month (2nd class costs €78/95/125/148; 1st-class costs about 35% more). It’s available to all travellers who hail from outside of Portugal, and can be purchased from many travel agents in Portugal or in advance from the website.
Types & Classes of Service
There are four main types of long-distance service. Note that international services are marked IN on timetables.
Regional (R) Slow, stop everywhere.
Interregional (IR) Reasonably fast.
Intercidade (IC) Rápido or express trains.
Alfa Pendular Deluxe This service is marginally faster than express and much pricier.
Only the Faro–Porto Comboio Azul and international trains such as Sud-Expresso and Talgo Lusitânia have restaurant cars, though all IC and Alfa trains have aisle service and most have bars.
Lisbon and Porto have their own urbano (suburban) train networks. Lisbon’s network extends to Sintra, Cascais and Setúbal, and up the lower Tejo valley. Porto’s network takes the definition of ‘suburban’ to new lengths, running all the way to Braga, Guimarães and Aveiro. Urbano services also travel between Coimbra and Figueira da Foz. The distinction matters where long-distance services parallel the more convenient, plentiful and considerably cheaper urbanos.