BEACON HILL
With its elegant, 19th-century row houses, quaint grocers, pricey antiques shops, and hidden gardens, Beacon Hill screams “old money” like no other area in Boston. That some of the city’s most exorbitant apartment rentals can still be found here suggests it will remain an enclave of exclusivity for years to come. Yet throughout the 19th century and well into the 20th, this inimitably charming neighborhood was a veritable checkerboard of ethnicities and earning groups – segregated though they were. Little of Beacon Hill’s diversity has survived its inevitable gentrification, but visitors can still experience the neighborhood’s myriad pasts inside its opulent mansions and humble schoolhouses, and along its enchanting cobblestone streets.
1.Massachusetts State House
24 Beacon St • 617 727 3676 • Tours 10am–3:30pm Mon–Fri (reservations recommended) • www.sec.state.ma.us/trs 
A 200-year-old codfish, a stained-glass image of a Native American in a grass skirt, and a 23-carat gold dome crowned with a pine cone – such are the curious eccentricities that distinguish Beacon Hill’s most prestigious address (for further details see Massachusetts State House).
Gleaming dome and elegant frontage of the Massachusetts State House
2.Museum of African American History
46 Joy St • 617 725 0022 • Open 10am–4pm Mon–Sat • Adm • www.maah.org Based in the African Meeting House (the oldest extant black church in the US) and the adjoining Abiel Smith School (the nation’s first publicly funded grammar school for African-American children), the MAAH offers a look into the daily life of free, pre-Civil War African-Americans. The meeting house was a political and religious center for Boston’s African-American community and it was here that abolitionists such as Frederick Douglass and William Lloyd Garrison delivered anti-slavery addresses in the mid-19th century. The museum has successfully preserved their legacy and that of countless others through its wide and fascinating range of workshops, exhibitions, and special events.
3.Nichols House Museum
55 Mount Vernon St • 617 227 6993 • Open Apr–Oct: 11am–4pm Tue–Sat; Nov–Mar: 11am–4pm Thu–Sat • Adm • www.nicholshousemuseum.org An 1804 Charles Bulfinch design, 55 Mount Vernon is one of the earliest examples of residential architecture on Beacon Hill. Rose Nichols, the house’s principal occupant for 75 years, bequeathed her home to the city as a museum, providing a glimpse of late 19th- and early 20th-century life on the Hill. A pioneering force for women in the arts and sciences, Nichols gained fame through her authoritative writings on landscape architecture and philanthropic projects.
Nichols House Museum exhibit
4.Louisburg Square
Cobblestone streets, a genteel little gated park, and a hefty dose of Boston Brahmin cachet make this tight block of town houses the city’s most exclusive patch of real estate. Modeled after the traditional residential squares of London in 1826, the square was named in remembrance of the 1745 Battle of Louisburg in modern-day Quebec.
Louisburg Square residences
5.Harrison Gray Otis House
141 Cambridge St • 617 994 5920 • Open Mar–Nov: 11am–5pm Wed–Sun; Dec–Feb: 11am–5pm Fri–Sun • Adm • www.historicnewengland.org One of the principal developers of Beacon Hill, Harrison Gray Otis served in the Massachusetts legislature and gained a reputation for living the high life in this 1796 Bulfinch-designed manse. Like a post-revolutionary Gatsby, Otis ensured his parties were the social events of the year. After falling into disrepair, the property was acquired in 1916 by the historical preservation society and has been restored to its original grandeur.
6.Parkman House
33 Beacon St • Closed to the public George Parkman – once a prominent physician at Harvard Medical School – lived in this house during the mid 19th century. In 1849, in one of the most sensationalized murder cases in US history, Parkman was killed by a faculty member, Dr. John Webster, over a financial dispute. Both the crime and its aftermath were grisly – the ensuing trial saw the inclusion of dental records as evidence for the first time. The house is now a city-owned meeting center.
7.Boston Common
The oldest city park in the country, the Common is a popular gathering place for outdoor concerts, public protests, picnics in summer and, in the winter, ice-skating on Frog Pond.
George Washington statue in Boston Gardens
8.Beacon Street
Boston Athenaeum: 10½ Beacon St • 617 227 0270 • Open 9am–8pm Mon–Thu, 9am–5:30pm Fri, 9am–4pm Sat, 12pm–4pm Sun; tours 3pm Tue & Thu, by reservation Beacon Street, in the blocks between Somerset and Brimmer streets, features the National Historic Landmark Boston Athenaeum, one of the oldest independent libraries in the country, housed in a sumptuous building containing a collection of over 600,000 titles. Also here are the Massachusetts State House, Parkman House, and the Third Harrison Otis House, at 45 Beacon St, considered architect Charles Bulfinch’s finest Federal-style house. The facade of the former Bull and Finch Pub at 84 Beacon St is famed as the exterior of the bar in the TV show Cheers.
Boston Athenaeum library
9.George Middleton House
5–7 Pinckney St • Closed to the public The oldest remaining private residence on Beacon Hill built by African-Americans is a highlight of the Black Heritage Trail. George Middleton, a Revolutionary War veteran, commissioned the house’s construction soon after the war. Legend has it that he commanded an all-black company dubbed the “Bucks of America.”
10.Boston’s Center for Jewish Culture
13–18 Phillips St • 617 523 2324 • Call for hours • www.vilnashul.com The Vilna Shul testifies to the area’s former vibrancy as Boston’s first predominantly Jewish quarter. The congregation was founded in 1903 by immigrants who came from Vilna, Lithuania. It is now a center of Jewish culture with programs and exhibits.
BLACK HERITAGE TRAIL
By and large the Paul Reveres and John Adamses of this world have monopolized the history books. As a refreshing counterpoint, the Black Heritage Trail posits that black Bostonians, despite their marginalized histories, have played an indispensable role in the city’s development. The trail illustrates this point at every turn, taking visitors past the homes and businesses of some of Boston’s most influential black Americans. Tours leave from the Shaw Memorial daily in summer, Mon–Sat in fall. Call 24 hours in advance for times and to book (617 742 5415; www.nps.gov/boaf).
BEACON HILL BY DAY
Morning
Take the “T” to the Charles Street/Massachusetts General Hospital stop and exit onto Charles Street. Enjoy a light breakfast at Panificio Bakery (144 Charles St) where the scones and muffins are out of this world. Then continue along Charles Street and turn right onto Beacon Street for a glimpse of the former Bull and Finch Pub – the bar that inspired the TV show Cheers. Continue up Beacon to the Massachusetts State House for a free 45-minute tour; times vary. Afterward, cross the road to the Shaw Memorial, where a National Park ranger-led Black Heritage Trail tour departs at noon during summer. The trail provides an excellent survey of the area’s architectural styles as well as its black culture sites, and ends at the Museum of African American History.
Afternoon
Walk back down the hill to Charles Street for a fortifying late lunch. Weather permitting, stock up on fresh fruit, a crusty baguette, and a sampling of imported cheeses at the charming Savenor’s Market (160 Charles St) and have a picnic on the Common. Or, for inexpensive, diner-style American fare (meatloaf and fruit pies), try the Paramount (44 Charles St). After lunch, peruse the sleek accessories, art, and design at Good (133 Charles St) and spend the afternoon browsing Charles Street’s antique shops (for further details see Antiques and Gift Shops). Round the day off with a pint at The Sevens Ale House.
Antiques and Gift Shops
1.Devonia Antiques
15 Charles St • Closed Tue Fine antique English porcelain and American and European stemware. Thousands of museum-quality and collector items are on display, including hand-painted cabinet plates, and individual pieces, as well as complete dinner services.
Devonia Antiques
2.Eugene Galleries
76 Charles St This shop has an excellent and fascinating selection of antique books, maps, and prints, including many depicting the development and history of Boston.
3.Beacon Hill Chocolates
91 Charles St • Closed Sun Handmade boxes decorated with vintage Boston scenes are ideal for a gift assortment of artisan chocolates. Don’t miss the signature swirl of Caramel Sushi.
Beacon Hill Chocolates
4.20th Century Limited
73 Charles St This shop specializes in vintage designer costume jewelry and estate jewelry, but there’s also handsome 1950s barware, vintage clothing accessories, and other collectibles.
5.Boston Antiques Company
119 Charles St Twelve dealers operate in this lower-level space filled with treasures including Asian antiques, militaria, Impressionist landscape paintings, and much more.
6.Blackstone’s of Beacon Hill
46 Charles St This is the place to go for unique Boston-themed gifts such as Make Way for Ducklings pillows and ornaments, as well as high-quality Fenway Park mugs.
7.Elegant Findings
89 Charles St • Closed Tue, Wed & Sun This intimate shop specializes in museum-quality, hand-painted 19th-century porcelain from all over Europe. You’ll also find marble statuary, exquisite linens, and fine period furniture.
8.Upstairs Downstairs
93 Charles St This cozy shop places a refreshing emphasis on affordability and function. Everything from mahogany four-poster beds to belle époque opera glasses is on display.
9.Marika’s Antiques
130 Charles St • Closed Sun & Mon Packed to its dusty rafters with oil paintings, tarnished silverware, and mismatched china – nothing quite beats that thrill of discovery you’ll find here.
10.Black Ink
101 Charles St Labeled “unexpected necessities” by the owners, merchandise here ranges from four-way rubber bands to Weck canning jars to rubber stamps (hence the name).
Restaurants and Bars
1.Mooo
15 Beacon St • 617 670 2515 • $$$ Mooo specializes in extraordinary beef and classic accompaniments at expense-account prices. The wine list includes many stellar names.
2.Bin 26 Enoteca
26 Charles St • 617 723 5939 • $$$ Neighborhood wine bar with an Italian accent, offering offers a range of small dishes for sharing along with 60 wines by the glass.
3.Figs
42 Charles St • 617 742 3447 • Closed L Mon–Fri • $ This popular spot created by local celeb-chef Todd English specializes in pizza with inventive toppings such as artichoke, caramelized leeks, goat’s cheese, and basil oil.
4.Scampo
Liberty Hotel, 215 Charles St • 617 536 2100 • $$$ Bold design and Italian cuisine with a twist graces the first floor of the swank Liberty Hotel.
5.The Sevens Ale House
77 Charles St The epitome of a local Boston bar: dark wood, slightly surly staff, amiable patrons, a dartboard, and a rudimentary pub menu.
6.21st Amendment
150 Bowdoin St This neighborhood pub near the State House is a classy spot for legislators and movers and shakers to indulge in a tipple or two.
7.Lala Rokh
97 Mount Vernon St • 617 720 5511 • Closed L Sat & Sun • $$ Authentic Persian cuisine is served in this casual spot. Citrus-based glazes and relishes give meats amazing piquant flavor.
8.Artù
89 Charles St • 617 227 9023 • Closed L Sun & Mon • $$ Tuscan specialties such as porchetta, lamb cutlets, spicy seafood, and roasted veggies come sizzling off the grill straight to your table.
9.Beacon Hill Bistro
25 Charles St • 617 723 1133 • Open for brunch Sat & Sun • closed L Sat & Sun • $$$ This kitchen (in the Beacon Hill Hotel) puts an American stamp on French bistro cuisine to great effect.
Beacon Hill Bistro
10.75 Chestnut
75 Chestnut St • 617 227 2175 • Closed L except Sat & Sun brunch • $$ This converted town house offers one of Beacon Hill’s most popular drinking and dining hangouts for brunch and dinner. The menu offers affordable American bistro dishes.