NORTH END AND THE WATERFRONT
The North End is Boston’s Italian village, where one feast day blends into the next all summer as the great-grandchildren of the original immigrants celebrate the music, food, and dolce vita of the old country. Yet the North End predates its Italian inhabitants and the neighborhood is in fact the oldest in Boston. The area along the waterfront bristles with condo developments on former shipping piers, which lead south to the bustle of Long, Central, and Rowes wharves. Boston was born by the sea and it is now reclaiming its waterfront as a vital center for business and pleasure.
1.Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
Entrance on Hull St • 617 635 4505 • Open 9am–5pm daily • No DA 
Trace the history of Boston on the thousands of tombstones here, from the mean-spirited Mather family, theocrats who ruled the early city, to the valiant patriots slain in the fight for freedom. In the Battle of Bunker Hill, the British, who occupied the city in 1775, manned a battery from this site and fired on neighboring Charlestown. There are sweeping views of the harbor.
2.Old North Church
193 Salem St • 617 523 6676 • Open Jun–Oct: 9am–6pm daily (shorter hours off-season) • Donation • www.oldnorth.com An active Episcopal congregation still worships at Boston’s oldest church, officially known as Christ Church (1723). It was here, in 1775, that sexton Robert Newman hung two lanterns in the belfry to warn horseback messenger Paul Revere of British troop movements, an event commemorated by a bronze plaque in the street outside (for further details see Paul Revere’s Ride (1775)).
Old North Church
Old North Church road marker
3.Paul Revere House
19 North Sq • 617 523 2338 • Open mid-Apr–Oct: 9:30am–5:15pm daily; Nov–mid Apr: 9:30am–4:15pm daily (closed Mon Jan–Mar) • Adm • Limited DA • www.paulreverehouse.org Home to Paul Revere for 30 years, this 17th-century clapboard house is the only surviving home of any of Boston’s revolutionary heroes. It provides an intriguing glimpse into the domestic life of Revere’s family with displays of their furniture and possessions, including silverwork made by Revere, who was highly regarded as a metalsmith. Well-trained staff tell the tale of Revere’s legendary midnight ride.
Paul Revere House
4.Hanover Street
Originally built in the 17th century to link the shipping wharves to Dock Square (now Faneuil Hall Marketplace), Hanover Street was widened in 1870 to accommodate the busy flow of commerce. Today, as the North End’s principal artery, with cafés and eateries aplenty, it is the place to come for a slice of the action.
5.New England Aquarium
Now the centerpiece of the downtown waterfront development, the aquarium’s construction in the 1960s paved the way for the revitalization of Boston Harbor as a whole. Seals cavort in a tank in front of the sleek modern structure (for further details see New England Aquarium).
6.Children’s Museum
Educators at this ground-breaking interactive museum for kids pioneered some of the features now found in similar facilities around the world, including giant soap bubbles and complex rampways for marbles (for further details see Children’s Museum).
Exterior of the Children’s Museum
7.Institute of Contemporary Art
100 Northern Ave • 617 478 3100 • Open 10am–5pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, 10am–9pm Thu & Fri • Adm • www.icaboston.org The ICA was founded in 1936 and reopened in its modern landmark structure on Fan Pier in 2006. The striking glass, wood, and steel building, designed by Diller Scofidio + Renfro, is cantilevered over the HarborWalk and provides dramatic views. The ICA promotes cutting-edge art and focuses on 21st-century work. There is also a program of performing arts and other events, with waterfront concerts in summer.
8.Boston Tea Party Ships and Museum
Congress St Bridge • 617 338 1773 • Open 10am–5pm daily • Adm • www.bostonteapartyship.com The historic occasion known as the Boston Tea Party, when patriots dressed as Native Americans and threw a consignment of English tea overboard to protest against the Stamp Tax of 1773, proved to be a catalyst of the American Revolution (for further details see Moments in Revolutionary History). The Boston Tea Party ships are replicas of two of the three vessels that were relieved of their cargo that fateful December night. Costumed storytellers recount events in rousing detail, and visitors can board one of the vessels and even participate in a re-enactment of the destruction of the tea. In the museum is one of two tea crates known to have survived from the incident, while Abigail’s Tea Room serves up a nice “cuppa.”
Harborside setting of the Boston Tea Party Ships and Museum
9.Rose Kennedy Greenway
www.rosekennedygreenway.org The Greenway is a ribbon of organic, contemporary parkland through the heart of Boston, where visitors and locals laze on the lawns, cool off in the fountains, buy lunch at one of the affordable food trucks, and enjoy free Wi-Fi. There’s a charming carousel featuring local hand-carved wildlife, with a cod, lobster, rabbit, and more. Artworks include the Harbor Fog water sculpture, near Rowes Wharf, which evokes the sea with fog, light, and sound, as well as installations that change every year. Colorful garden plants punctuate the walkways.
Rose Kennedy Greenway
10.St. Stephen’s Church
401 Hanover St • 617 523 1230 • Open 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, 11am Sun for worship Renowned architect Charles Bulfinch completely redesigned St. Stephen’s original 1714 structure in 1802–4, and the church is the only surviving example of his religious architecture. Its bell was cast by Paul Revere. The complex Neo-Classical exterior contrasts with the open, airy, and relatively unadorned interior. In 1862, the Roman Catholic archdiocese took over the church to accommodate the area’s growing number of Irish immigrants. Rose Fitzgerald, daughter of Boston mayor and St. Stephen’s parishioner John “Honey Fitz” Fitzgerald and mother of President J.F. Kennedy, is linked to the church. She was baptized here in 1890, and her funeral took place here in 1995.
FORAGING FOR FORMAGGIO
Italian food, wine, and culture expert Michele Topor has lived in the North End for four decades. Her tour of the local markets on Wednesday and Saturday (10am, 1pm, 2pm, 5pm), and Friday (10am, 1pm, 3pm, 6pm) includes tastings and insights on local restaurants. To reserve a place, contact Boston Food Tours: 855 249 1163, www.bostonfoodtours.com.
FROM NARROW BYWAYS TO THE SEA
Morning
From the Haymarket “T”, follow Hanover Street to Richmond Street and continue to North Square. Stop at Paul Revere House for a glimpse into the domestic life of the revolutionary hero. Return to Hanover for an espresso and some prime people-watching at lively Caffè Vittoria. Continue up Hanover and turn left through Paul Revere Mall to Old North Church. The bust of George Washington inside is reputedly the world’s most accurate rendering of his face – compare the resemblance to a dollar bill. Then stroll up Hull Street past Copp’s Hill Burying Ground for a great view of USS Constitution and continue to the waterfront. Grab a bench in Puopolo Park to watch a match of bocce. Walk south along Commercial Street and stop for an alfresco waterside lunch at Joe’s American Bar & Grill (100 Atlantic Ave).
Afternoon
Resume your waterfront stroll along the Rose Kennedy Greenway and stop off to enjoy the roses in the Rose Kennedy Rose Garden, before whiling away an hour or so in the New England Aquarium where highlights include the swirling Giant Ocean Tank. Relax with a sundowner on the patio of the Boston Harbor Hotel (70 Rowes Wharf) before you head to Sportello for dinner.
Italian Bakeries and Grocers
1.Mike’s Pastry
300 Hanover St Large glass cases display a huge selection of cookies and cannoli (crunchy pastry filled with a sweet ricotta cream). Purchase a box to go, or grab a table and order a drink and a delectable pastry.
2.Salumeria Italiana
151 Richmond St This neighborhood fixture is a great source of esoteric Italian canned goods and rich olive oils, as well as spicy sausages and cheeses from many Italian regions.
3.Maria’s Pastry Shop
46 Cross St Run for three generations by the Merola family, Maria’s is famed for its Neapolitan flaky and sweet sfogliatelle (filled pastry) as well as seasonal sweets, such as chocolate-allspice cookies at Christmas and marzipan lambs at Easter.
4.Polcari’s Coffee Co.
105 Salem St • Closed Sun The premier bulk grocer in the North End, this charming store has sold fine Italian roasted coffee since 1932. It’s still the best place to find spices, flours, grains, and legumes.
Polcari’s Coffee Co.
5.Bova’s Bakery
134 Salem St Fresh bread emerges from the ovens at all hours. When the coffee shops and bars close, head to Bova’s for hot sandwiches and cookies.
6.Modern Pastry
257 Hanover St The house specialties here include a rich ricotta pie, delicious florentines, and nougat, which are all made on the premises, as well as chocolate truffles from Italy. Modern makes a thinner cannoli shell than Mike’s.
Modern Pastry shop sign
7.Monica’s Mercato
130 Salem St Linked to a nearby restaurant, this salumeria has all the usual cheeses and sausages, but its specialties are prepared foods such as cold salads for picnics and pasta dishes for reheating.
8.V. Cirace Wine & Spirits
173 North St • Closed Sun The North End’s most upscale seller of Italian wines and liqueurs stocks both fine wines to lay down and cheerfully youthful ones to enjoy right away.
9.Bricco Panetteria
241 Hanover St This subterranean bakery turns out amazing Italian and French breads day and night. Follow the delicious smells to find it tucked down an alley.
10.Bricco Salumeria & Pasta Shop
11 Board Alley With many varieties of fresh pasta made daily, plus sauces, pesto, grating cheeses, and a handful of hard-to-find Italian groceries, this North End takeout is ideal for stocking up a picnic basket.
Restaurants and Bars
1.Maurizio’s
364 Hanover St • 617 367 1123 • Closed Mon • No DA • $$ This is a cozy, buzzy spot, at which chef Maurizio Lodo draws on his Sardinian heritage to create dishes that often make a feature of brilliant preparations of fish.
2.Neptune Oyster
63 Salem St • 617 742 3474 • $$$ The delicate raw bar oysters are almost upstaged by large and bold roasted fish and pasta dishes in this tiny, stylish spot. Tables turn quickly.
Neptune Oyster
3.Legal Harborside
The flagship of the Legal Sea Foods chain offers three floors of seafood heaven. Book ahead for fine dining on level two (for further details see Legal Harborside).
4.Aragosta
3 Battery Wharf • 617 994 9001 • $$$ Stunning waterfront views complement Mediterranean flavors and ocean-fresh New England seafood at the Fairmont Hotel.
5.Pizzeria Regina
11½ Thatcher St • No DA • $ Founded in 1926, the original, family-run Regina offers brick-oven, thin-crust, old-fashioned pizza which is far better than the pale imitations served at its other branches.
6.Sportello
348 Congress St • 617 737 1234 • $$ Barbara Lynch’s funky, upscale lunch counter serves comfort food Italian-style, with dishes such as Roman gnocchi, and polenta with wild mushrooms or oxtail ragout.
7.Taranta
210 Hanover St • 617 720 0052 • Closed L Sun • No DA • $$$ A creative and unusual blend of Sardinian and Peruvian cuisine spells intense flavors (pork with vinegar peppers and broccoli).
8.Ristorante Fiore
250 Hanover St • 617 371 1176 • Closed L Sun • $$ Traditional southern Italian cuisine with a strong Italian-American accent has made this a popular dining spot, especially with its outdoor rooftop terrace.
9.Chart House
60 Long Wharf • 617 227 1576 • $$$ Housed in a historic, 18th-century building at Long Wharf, this upscale, waterfront restaurant offers inventive seafood dishes. Opt for the local catch specials.
10.Prezza
24 Fleet St • 617 227 1577 • Closed L, Sun • $$$ With one of the longest wine lists in town, Prezza is bound to offer just the right glass to accompany its hearty Tuscan fare as well as its sinfully rich desserts.