Abruzzo & Molise 
ABRUZZO
PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN SASSO E MONTI DELLA LAGA
PARCO NAZIONALE DELLA MAJELLA
PARCO NAZIONALE D’ABRUZZO, LAZIO E MOLISE
PESCARA
CHIETI
VASTO
MOLISE
CAMPOBASSO
AROUND CAMPOBASSO
ISERNIA
TERMOLI
ALBANIAN TOWNS
A stunning mountain region little known to foreign visitors, Abruzzo is an area of unspoiled natural beauty and rural, back-country charm. It might only be an hour from Rome but it feels like a world apart with its great Apennine peaks, still, silent valleys and pretty hilltop towns. To the south, Molise offers more of the same, albeit on a smaller, less dramatic scale.
Tourism hasn’t bypassed the area but nor has it taken over completely and with visitor numbers in freefall after the devastating earthquake of 2009, there’s never been a better time to go. Many people make for the heavily developed Adriatic resorts but it’s inland that you’ll discover the real heart of these two regions.
Abruzzo and Molise boast three national parks encompassing 3350 sq km of mountainous terrain. The oldest and most popular is the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise, where wolves and bears roams free in the vast beech woods and verdant slopes. A mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, it also offers wonderful hiking, skiing and mountain-biking.
Traditionally poor and neglected, neither region is as culturally rich as its more illustrious neighbours, but there are gems to be found. Pescocostanzo’s baroque centre and Sulmona’s historic palazzi testify to past glories, while prehistoric finds in Isernia reveal the presence of one of Europe’s oldest human settlements. Isolation has also ensured the survival of age-old customs such as Cocullo’s bizarre snake-charmers’ procession and the manic bull race in Ururi. In Scanno, you’ll still see elderly women wearing traditional clothing.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Breathe in the pure mountain air of Pescocostanzo, one of Abruzzo’s hidden jewels
- Travel back in time as you walk the ancient Roman town of Saepinum.
- Dance with wolves at Civitella Alfedena deep in Abruzzo’s green heartland
- Feel the call of the wild as you climb the Corno Grande, summit of the Gran Sasso and the Apennine’s highest peak
- Get with the summer swing at Termoli, a cheerful and unpretentious Adriatic resort
Return to beginning of chapter
ABRUZZO
Best known for its dramatic mountain scenery, Abruzzo’s landscape is surprisingly diverse. There are ancient forests in the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise, a vast plain extends east of Avezzano and the coastline is flat and sandy.
Many towns retain a medieval look, while the numerous hilltop castles and isolated, sometimes abandoned, borghi (villages) exude a sinister charm, lending credence to Abruzzo’s fame as an ancient centre of magic.
Return to beginning of chapter
PARCO NAZIONALE DEL GRAN SASSO E MONTI DELLA LAGA
About 20km northeast of L’Aquila, the Gran Sasso massif is the centrepiece of the Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga, one of Italy’s largest national parks. The park’s predominant feature is its jagged rocky landscape through which Europe’s southernmost glacier, the Calderone, cuts its course. It’s also a haven for wildlife, home to an estimated 40 wolves, 350 chamois and five pairs of royal eagles.
For further information contact the park office (
0862 6 05 21; www.gransassolagapark.it, in Italian; Via del Convento 1; 
10.30am-1pm Mon-Fri & 4-6pm Tue & Thu) in Assergi.
Fonte Cerreto is the main gateway to the Gran Sasso and Campo Imperatore (2117m), a desolate highland plain where Mussolini was briefly imprisoned in 1943. A funivia (cable car; 0862 60 61 43; Sat & Sun €14, weekdays €11; 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun, closed May) runs up to the Campo from Fonte Cerreto. Up top, there’s hiking in summer and skiing in winter – Click here.
One of the most popular trekking routes is the surprisingly straightforward climb up Corno Grande (at 2912m, it’s the Apennines’ highest peak). The 9km via normale (normal route) starts in the main parking area at Campo Imperatore and heads to the summit. The trail should be clear of snow from early June to late September/early October. If attempting the ascent, or any other serious route, be sure to arm yourself with the CAI 1:25,000 map Gran Sasso d’Italia (€10).
The park has a network of rifugi (mountain huts) for walkers. Otherwise, you can bed down at Camping Funivia del Gran Sasso ( 0862 60 61 63; Fonte Cerreto; per person/tent/car €7/8/1.50; mid-May—mid-Sep), a modest camp site in Fonte Cerreto or, at the top of the cable-car lift, the Ostello Campo Imperatore ( 0862 40 00 11; Campo Imperatore; per person €30, incl dinner €45), which offers basic year-round digs.
Fonte Cerreto is just off the A24 motorway, clearly signposted. To get here by public transport you’ll have to pass through L’Aquila – take bus 76 from L’Aquila to Piazza Santa Maria Paganica, and then the M6 bus to Fonte Cerreto.
REGIONAL ITINERARY
cut to the heart One week / Sulmona / Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci
SULMONA
pop 25,325
Hemmed in by dark, brooding mountains, Sulmona is a prosperous provincial town with an atmospheric medieval core. It’s easily covered in a day, although you might want to linger and use it as a base for exploring southern Abruzzo.
Despite its medieval appearance, Sulmona’s origins predate the Romans. No-one is absolutely sure but tradition holds that it was founded by Solimo, a companion of Aeneas. The poet Ovid was born here in 43 BC, and in the Middle Ages it became an important commercial centre.
Much of Sulmona’s modern wealth is based on the production of confetti – the sugar almonds presented to guests at Italian weddings – and jewellery.
Orientation
Most sights are on or near the main street, Corso Ovidio, which runs southeast from the Villa Comunale park to Piazza Garibaldi, Sulmona’s main square. It’s a five-minute stroll and the corso is closed to traffic outside business hours. About halfway down is Piazza XX Settembre.
The train station is 2km northwest of the historic centre; the half-hourly bus A runs between the two.
Information
- 3D Sistemi ( 0864 21 20 47; Piazza Plebiscito 2; per hr €5; 9am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat) For internet access.
- Tourist office ( 0864 5 32 76; www.abruzzoturismo.it; Corso Ovidio 208; 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun mid-May—mid-Sep, 9am-1pm Mon-Sat plus 3-6pm Mon, Wed & Fri mid-Sep—mid-May)
Sights
The most impressive of the palazzi on Corso Ovidio is the 16th-century Palazzo dell’Annunziata (Corso Ovidio), a harmonious blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. Inside, the Museo Civico ( 0864 21 02 16) has a small collection of Roman mosaics and Renaissance sculpture, and the Museo Archeologico in situ showcases a 1st-century-BC Roman villa. At the time of research, both museums were closed on account of damage sustained in the 2009 earthquake.
Nearby, Piazza XX Settembre, with its statue of Ovid, is a popular meeting point.
Continuing along Corso Ovidio you come to what remains of a 13th-century aqueduct and, beneath that, Piazza Garibaldi, home of Sulmona’s Wednesday and Saturday market. In the centre of the piazza, the Renaissance Fontana del Vecchio (Fountain of the Old One) is said by some to depict Solimo, the founder of Sulmona. To the northeast, the 14th-century Chiesa di San Filippo Neri (Piazza Garibaldi) boasts an impressive Gothic portal.
Also on the square, housed in a former convent, is the Polo Museale Santa Chiara ( 0864 21 29 62; Piazza Garibaldi; admission €3; 9am-1pm & 3.30-7.30pm daily), a small museum with an eclectic collection of religious and contemporary art. A highlight is a fascinating presepe (nativity scene) depicting 19th-century Sulmona.
About 1km from Porta Napoli, at the southern end of Corso Ovidio, is the Fabbrica Confetti Pelino, the most famous of Sulmona’s confetti manufacturers. Learn how they do it at the Museo dell’Arte Confettiera ( 0864 21 00 47; Via Stazione Introdacqua 55; admission free; 9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat).
Festivals & Events
Crowds swell Piazza Garibaldi on Easter Sunday to witness the Madonna che Scappa in Piazza (The Madonna that Escapes to the Square), Sulmona’s traditional Easter ceremony.
Summer sees further festivities as the city hosts two medieval tournaments. On the last weekend in July, local horse riders gallop around Piazza Garibaldi in the Giostra Cavalleresca di Sulmona. Then, a week later, the competition is opened up to riders from across Europe in the Giostra Cavalleresca d’Europa.
Sleeping
B&B Case Bonomini ( 0864 5 23 08; www.bedandbreakfastcasebonomini.com; Via Quatrario 71; s €25-30, d €50-70, tr €65-90) Hidden away on a back street in the historic centre, this mini-apartment is one of three properties on the same street. It’s a modest place with homey decor and a creaky wooden bed but there’s plenty of light, the price is right and there’s a fully equipped kitchen.
Albergo Ristorante Stella ( 0864 5 26 53; www.hasr.it; Via Panfilo Mazara 18; s €40-50, d €70-80) A bright little three-star in the centro storico, the Stella offers airy, modern rooms and a smart, ground-floor restaurant—wine bar (lunch €14). Discounts of around 20% are available for stays of more than one night and you can arrange bike/car hire as well as airport pick-ups.
Eating & Drinking
Hosteria dell’Arco ( 0864 21 05 53; Via M D’Eramo 20; meals €20; Tue-Sun) You’ll remember this place – superb food, lovely, rustic surroundings, laid-back atmosphere and friendly service, all for the princely sum of €20. First up is the fabulous antipasto buffet, prepared from scratch every night, followed by delicious grilled lamb and scrumptious home-made desserts.
La Cantina di Biffi ( 0864 3 20 25; Via Barbato 1; meals €20; closed Sun evening & Mon) Just off Corso Ovidio, this is a charming and atmospheric bistro—wine bar. Exposed stone walls and the arched, vaulted ceiling set the stage for excellent home-made food and local wine, served by the glass from €4.
Pasticcerie Palazzone ( 0864 21 11 21; Piazza SS Annunziata 2; Wed-Mon) Grab an outdoor table and sip something cool as you watch the evening parade on Corso Ovidio. If you get the munchies, there’s a great spread of ice cream and savoury snacks.
Shopping
A pack of confetti is the traditional Sulmona souvenir. Pick one up at Confetteria Maria Di Vito ( 0864 5 59 08; Corso Ovidio 187) along with a bar of torrone, a chewy nougat confection. Confetti costs from €4 for a small packet to €10 for a 2kg bag.
Getting There & Away
ARPA ( 199 166 952; www.arpaonline.it) buses go to/from L’Aquila (€5.50, 1½ hours, nine daily), Pescara (€5.50, one hour, nine daily), Scanno (€2.90, one hour, 10 daily) and other nearby towns. Striking further afield, SATAM ( 0871 34 49 69) runs four daily services to Naples (€15, 2½ hours).
Buses leave from a confusing array of points, including Villa Comunale, the hospital, train station, and beneath Ponte Capograssi. Find out which stop you need when you get your ticket from Agenzia Fai ( 0864 5 17 15; Via Circonvallazione Orientale 3; 9am-1pm & 4.20-6.30pm Mon-Sat) near Porta Napoli.
By car, Sulmona is just off the A25 autostrada. From L’Aquila, follow the SS17 south.
Trains link with L’Aquila (€3.90, one hour, 11 daily), Pescara (€3.90, 1¼ hours, 17 daily) and Rome (€8.80, 2½ to three hours, seven daily). From the train station take bus A for the centre.
Return to beginning of chapter
PARCO NAZIONALE DELLA MAJELLA
Easily accessible from Sulmona, the 750-sq-km Parco Nazionale della Majella is an area of ominous mountains and empty valleys. More than half the park is over 2000m and its high point, Monte Amaro (2793m), is the Apennines’ second-highest peak. Some 500km of paths and cycling trails criss-cross the area, providing ample scope for exercise.
From Sulmona the two easiest access points are Campo di Giove (elevation 1064m), a small skiing village 18 tortuous kilometres to the southeast, and the lovely town of Pescocostanzo, 33km south of Sulmona along the SS17.
In Pescocostanzo there’s a tourist office ( 0864 64 14 40; Vico delle Carceri; 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm daily Jul & Aug), just off the central Piazza del Municipio. Further information is also available on the park’s comprehensive website www.parcomajella.it.
Set amid verdant highland plains, Pescocostanzo (elevation 1400m) is a real gem, a hilltop town whose historic core has changed little in over 500 years. Much of the cobbled centre dates to the 16th and 17th centuries when it was an important town on the ‘Via degli Abruzzi’, the main road linking Naples and Florence. Of particular note is the Collegiata di Santa Maria del Colle, an atmospheric church that combines a superb Romanesque portal with a lavish baroque interior. Nearby, Piazza del Municipio is flanked by a number of impressive palazzi, including Palazzo Comunale with its distinctive clock tower and Palazzo Fanzago, designed by the great baroque architect Cosimo Fanzago in 1624.
History apart, Pescocostanzo also offers skiing on Monte Calvario and summer hiking in the Bosco di Sant’Antonio.
If you want to stay in Pescocostanzo, Albergo La Rua ( 0864 64 00 83; www.larua.it; Via Rua Mozza 1; d €70-100; 
) is a charming little hotel in the historic centre. The look is country cosy with low wood-beamed ceilings and a stone fireplace, and the superfriendly owners are a mine of local knowledge.
Daily buses run from Sulmona to Pescocostanzo (€3.60, one daily, three hours) via Castel di Sangro, and to Campo di Giove (€1.90, 45 minutes, three daily).
SCANNO
pop 2035
A tangle of steep alleyways and sturdy, grey-stone houses, Scanno is a photogenic hilltop village and a popular tourist destination. It’s left to its own devices in winter, but gets very busy in summer as visitors pour in en masse to enjoy the authentic atmosphere of a remote medieval borgo. You would not want to miss it, though – if nothing else for the exhilarating drive up from Sulmona, through the rocky Gole di Sagittaro (Sagittarius Gorges) and past tranquil Lago di Scanno.
Long heralded as a bastion of tradition, Scanno was for centuries a centre of wool production and it is one of the few places in Italy where you can still see women wearing traditional dress.
To learn more, contact the tourist office ( 0864 7 43 17; Piazza Santa Maria della Valle 12; 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat Oct—mid-May) in the village centre.
Sleeping & Eating
Accommodation is plentiful, although many places close in winter and most insist on half-board in July and August. Book ahead for summer.
Pensione Grotta dei Colombi ( 0864 7 43 93; www.grottadeicolombi.it; Viale dei Caduti 64; s/d €35/50, half-board per person €42-50; closed Nov) A sunny two-star on the edge of the centro storico. Rooms, some of which have views over the rocky gorge opposite, are unfussy and straightforward with plain white walls and basic pine furniture.
Hotel Belvedere ( 0864 7 43 14; www.belvederescanno.it; Piazza Santa Maria della Valle 3; s €27.50-35, d €55-70) Despite the tired-looking exterior, this year-round hotel offers spick-and-span modern rooms decked out with parquet and polished wood trimmings. The location, on Scanno’s main piazza, is a further plus.
Pizzeria Trattoria Vecchio Mulino ( 0864 74 72 19; Via Silla 50; pizzas €6, meals €25; closed Wed in winter) This old-school eatery is a good bet for a classic wood-fired pizza, cheesy antipastos and chargrilled hunks of pork and lamb. In summer the pretty streetside terrace provides a good perch to people-watch as you wait for your order.
Ristorante Gli Archetti ( 0864 7 46 45; Via Silla 8; meals €35; closed dinner Mon & Tue) Housed in the cellar of a Renaissance palazzo, this smart restaurant is highly rated. The menu is seasonal, but typical dishes include prosciutto cotto con l’aceto di mela (cured ham with apple vinegar) and filetto al montepulciano (fillet steak with red wine).
Getting There & Away
ARPA ( 199 166 952; www.arpaonline.it) buses connect Scanno with Sulmona (€2.90, one hour, nine daily).
Return to beginning of chapter
PARCO NAZIONALE D’ABRUZZO, LAZIO E MOLISE
Encompassing 1100 sq km of spectacular mountain scenery, the Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise is the oldest and most popular of Abruzzo’s national parks. It is also an important natural habitat, supporting 60 species of mammals, including the native Marsican brown bear and Apennine wolf, and up to 300 bird species. At current estimates there are reckoned to be about 50 bears, between 40 and 50 wolves, 700 indigenous chamois and two or three pairs of royal eagles. If you’re very lucky you might also spot one of the very few lynx still in the wild.
The park offers superb hiking as well as skiing, mountain-biking and other outdoor pursuits.
Orientation & Information
The park’s main centre is Pescasseroli, an attractive village about 80km southwest of Sulmona. For somewhere more low-key, nearby Civitella Alfedena is much less touristy.
In Pescasseroli (elevation 1167m) information is available from the helpful tourist office ( 0863 91 04 61; Via Principe di Napoli; 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, 9am-1pm & 4-7pm daily Jul & Aug) and from the Centro di Visita ( 0863 911 32 21; Viale Colli d’Oro; adult/child €6/4; 10am-7.30pm daily Apr-Aug, to 5.30pm daily Sep-Mar), which also has a small museum and zoo.
Seventeen kilometres from Pescasseroli, Civitella Alfedena (elevation 1121m) lies on the park’s eastern edge above Lago di Barrea. Here, you can study the local flora and fauna at the Centro Lupo (Wolf Centre; 0864 89 01 41; admission €3; 10am-2pm & 2.30-5.30pm) and spy on a couple of wolves at the free Area Faunistica del Lupo. To see a rare lynx follow the signs to the Area Faunistica delle Lince.
Activities
Hiking opportunities abound, whether you want to go it alone or with an organised group. There are numerous outfits offering guided excursions including Ecotur ( 0863 91 27 60; www.ecotur.org; Via Piave 9), which organises treks, bike rides and various other excursions. For further hiking information see the boxed text, opposite.
Horse riding is a wonderful way to see the park. Between May and October, the Centro Ippico Vallecupa ( 0863 91 04 44; www.agriturismomaneggiovallecupa.it; Via della Difesa) organises riding lessons and guided rides of various difficulties, costing from €15 for a one-hour ride to €60 for a whole day.
For those who prefer to use their own legs, the tourist office hires out bikes from about €4 per hour.
For skiing information see the boxed text, Click here.
Sleeping
Campeggio Wolf ( 0864 89 03 60; Via Sotto i Cerri, Civitella Alfedena; per person/tent/car €5/5/3; May-Sep) This is a friendly camp site in Civitella Alfedena. It’s a fairly simple affair but there are free hot showers, games for the kids and a restaurant for parents.
B&B La Sosta ( 0863 91 60 57; Via Marsicana 17, Opi; per person €25) A delightful B&B in Opi, about 7km from Pescasseroli. Run with passionate care by a hospitable elderly couple, it offers six smart rooms, a sunny terrace, and excellent access to the nearby mountains. The breakfasts are quite special too, with cakes and lashings of home-made jam.
Albergo La Torre ( 0864 89 01 21; www.albergolatorre.com; Via Castello 3, Civitella Alfedena; s €30-40, d €40-55; year-round; 
) Housed in an atmospheric 18th-century palazzo in Civitella Alfedena’s medieval centre, this is a warm and cosy hotel with 20 functional rooms and a small restaurant serving hot, fortifying food.
Pensione Al Castello ( 0863 91 07 57; www.pensionecastello.it; Viale D’Annunzio 1, Pescasseroli; r €45-60, half-board per person €40-60; year-round) Just off the main square in Pescasseroli, this family-run pensione has large, sunny rooms decorated with white tiled floors and pleasant wooden furniture. Half-board is compulsory in high season.
Also recommended:
- Albergo Ai 4 Camosci ( 0864 89 02 62; www.ai4camosci.it; Via Nazionale 25, Civitella Alfedena; d €50-80, q €70-108;
) A welcoming year-round option in Civitella Alfedena with basic rooms in a chalet-style building.
Eating
Pizzeria San Francisco ( 0863 91 06 50; Via Isonzo 1, Pescasseroli; pizzas €6.50) If you’re not eating in your hotel, this laid-back pizzeria is a good bet. A modest place with wooden tables and a bustling atmosphere, it serves delicious pizzas prepared in a traditional wood oven.
Trattoria da Armando ( 0863 91 23 86; Piazza Vittorio Veneto 11; meals €15; Fri-Wed) If you’re after a quick, no-fuss lunch, this straight-up trattoria does the job. There’s a range of panini as well as the usual pasta and meat dishes. And while it’s all very basic, the food is as good as you’d get in many pricier joints.
Getting There & Away
Pescasseroli, Civitella Alfedena and the other villages in the national park are linked by six daily buses to Avezzano (€4.70, 1½ hours), from where you can change for L’Aquila, Pescara and Rome; and buses to Castel di Sangro (€3.60, 1¼ hours) for connections to Sulmona and Naples.
Return to beginning of chapter
PESCARA
pop 122,790
Host of the 2009 Mediterranean Games, Abruzzo’s largest city is a heavily developed seaside resort and an important transport hub. It’s a lively place with an animated seafront, but unless you’re coming for the 16km of sandy beaches there’s really no great reason to hang around.
On the cultural front, the big drawcard is the international jazz festival (www.pescarajazz.com), held in mid-July at the Teatro D’Annunzio.
Orientation & Information
From the train and intercity bus stations on Piazzale della Repubblica, the beach is a short walk down Corso Umberto I.
In an ex-silo on Piazzale della Repubblica, the tourist office ( 085 422 54 62; www.proloco.pescara.it; 9.30am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep, 9.30am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat Oct-May) has plenty of useful information. There’s a second office at the airport ( 085 432 21 20; Jun-Sep) which opens in coincidence with flight arrivals.
Sights
Pescara was heavily bombed during WWII and much of the city centre was reduced to rubble. The main action today centres on three zones: the main pedestrian precinct around Corso Umberto, the seafront, and what’s left of the historic centre. Here you’ll find a couple of museums worth a quick look: the Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo ( 085 451 00 26; www.gentidabruzzo.it; Via delle Caserme 24; adult/under 18yr & over 65yr €5/3; 8.45am-2pm Mon-Sat, 3.30-6.30pm Sun), which illustrates local peasant culture, and the Museo Casa Natale Gabriele D’Annunzio ( 0865 6 03 91; Corso Manthonè 116; admission €2; 9am-2pm daily), birthplace of controversial fascist poet Gabriele D’Annunzio.
Near the seafront, the Museo d’Arte Moderna Vittoria Colonna ( 085 428 37 59; Via Gramsci 26; admission €2; 9am-1pm & 3-9pm Tue-Sat, 3-9pm Mon) boasts a Picasso and Miró among its small collection of modern art.
Sleeping & Eating
B&B Villa del Pavone ( 085 421 17 70; www.villadelpavone.it; Via Pizzoferrato 30; d €60-80) Over the tracks on a quiet residential street about 300m behind the train station, this gorgeous B&B is a home away from home. A model of old-fashioned pride, it’s laden with gleaming antiques and chichi knick-knacks while, outside, the lush garden is presided over by a resident peacock.
Hotel Alba ( 085 38 91 45; www.hotelalba.pescara.it; Via Michelangelo Forti 14; s €50-70, d €75-110; ) A businesslike three-star, the Alba provides anonymous comfort and a central location. Rooms vary but the best sport polished wood, firm beds and plenty of sunlight. Note that rates are lowest at weekends and that garage parking costs €10.
Caffè Letterario ( 085 450 33 21; Via delle Caserme 22; lunch menus €5-9) With its huge floor-to-ceiling windows and exposed-brick walls, this is a popular lunchtime spot. The menu is chalked up on a daily board but typically comprises a few pastas and mains and several vegetable side dishes.
Ristorante Marechiaro da Bruno ( 085 421 38 49; Lungomare Matteotti 70; pizzas €6.50, meals €30; Thu-Tue) This large, bustling outfit serves the best pizza on the seafront. And if the impressive fish display is anything to go by, the seafood is pretty good too.
Osteria La Lumaca ( 085 451 08 80; Via delle Caserme 51; lunch menus €8-15, meals €35; closed Sat lunch & Sun) They take their food seriously at this warm wood-panelled restaurant. Particularly outstanding are the cured meats and ricotta, and the Abruzzo lamb. You’ll save money at lunch by going for one of the fixed-price menus.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Pescara airport (PSR; 899 130 310; www.abruzzo-airport.it) is 3km out of town and easily reached by bus 38 (€1, 20 minutes, every 15 minutes) from Corso Vittorio Emanuele II in front of the train station. Ryanair and Air One are among the airlines flying to Pescara.
BOAT
Throughout August, a daily SNAV ( 071 207 61 16; www.snav.it) jetfoil runs to the Croatian island of Hvar and onto Split (Spalato in Italian). One-way tickets for the 4¾-hour journey cost €90 for a poltrona and €120 for a car. For information, contact Agenzia Sanmar ( 0854 451 08 73; www.sanmar.it; Lungomare Giovanni XXIII Papa 1) at the port.
BUS
ARPA ( 199 166 952; www.arpaonline.it) buses leave from Piazzale della Repubblica for L’Aquila (€7.80, 2½ hours, 10 daily), Sulmona (€6, one hour, four daily) and many other destinations around Abruzzo and Molise. Buses also run to Naples (€21, 4½ hours, four daily) and to Rome’s Stazione Tiburtina (€15, 2¾ hours, 11 daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Heading along the coast, you can choose between the A14 or the toll-free SS16. Both the A25 and SS5 lead towards Rome, L’Aquila and Sulmona.
TRAIN
Pescara is on the main east-coast line. There are direct trains to Ancona (€7.10 to €15.20, 1¾ hours, 20 daily), Bari (€16.80 to €28.50, three hours, 15 daily), Rome (€11.70, 3½ hours, six daily) and Sulmona (€3.90, 1¼ hours, 17 daily).
Return to beginning of chapter
CHIETI
pop 54,900
One of Abruzzo’s four provincial capitals, Chieti is a windy, hilltop town 18km south of Pescara. Its roots date back to pre-Roman times when as capital of the Marrucini tribe it was known as Teate Marrucinorum. Later, in the 4th century BC, it was conquered by the Romans and incorporated into the Roman Republic. These days the main reason to stop by is to the visit the town’s two fascinating archaeology museums.
Chieti’s helpful tourist office ( 0871 6 36 40; Via Spaventa 47; 8am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat Jul-Sep, 8am-1pm Mon-Sat & 3-6pm Tue, Thu & Fri Oct-Jun) can provide information and accommodation lists for the town and surrounding area.
Housed in a neoclassical villa in the Villa Comunale park, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale ( 0871 33 16 68; Villa Frigerj; adult/child €4/2; 9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) displays a comprehensive collection of local finds, including the 6th-century-BC Warrior of Capestrano, considered the most important pre-Roman find in central Italy. Mystery surrounds the identity of the warrior but there are some who reckon it to be Numa Pompilo, the second king of Rome and successor to Romulus.
Nearby is the Complesso Archeologico la Civitella ( 0871 6 31 37; adult/child €4/2; 9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun), a modern museum built round a Roman amphitheatre. Exhibits chart the history of Chieti and include weapons and pottery dating back to the Iron Age.
About 3km downhill from the historic centre, Agriturismo Il Quadrifoglio ( 0871 63 4 00; www.agriturismoilquadrifoglio.com; Strada Licini 22, Località Colle Marcone; s/d €40/50; ) is a picturesque farmhouse with rustic rooms, panoramic views and a lovely, overflowing garden. Meals are €15 to €20. To get here follow signs to Colle Marcone.
Regular buses (€1, 40 minutes, every 20 minutes) link Chieti with Pescara.
Return to beginning of chapter
VASTO
pop 38,795
On Abruzzo’s southern coast, Vasto is a jolly hilltop town with an atmospheric medieval quarter and some great sea views. Two kilometres downhill is the blowsy resort of Vasto Marina, a strip of hotels, restaurants and camp sites fronting a long sandy beach.
Much of Vasto’s centro storico dates to the 15th century, a golden period in which the city was known as ‘the Athens of the Abruzzi’.
Information
The tourist office ( 0873 36 73 12; Piazza del Popolo 18; 9am-1pm Mon-Fri & 3-6pm Tue, Thu & Fri mid-Sep—Jun, 9am-1pm daily & 4-7pm Mon-Sat Jul—mid-Sep) is in the historic centre.
Sights & Activities
Up in the old town, interest centres on the small historic centre. From the landmark Castello Caldoresco on Piazza Rossetti, Corso de Parma leads down to the 13th-century Cattedrale di San Giuseppe ( 0873 36 71 93; Via Buonconsiglio 12; 8.30am-noon & 4.30-7pm), a lovely low-key example of Romanesque architecture. Nearby, the Renaissance Palazzo d’Avalos houses the Museo Civico Archaeologica ( 0873 36 77 73; Piazza del Popolo; admission €1.50; 9.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm Tue-Sun) with its eclectic collection of ancient bronzes, glasswork and paintings, as well as three other museums – the Pinacoteca Comunale (admission €3.50), the Galleria d’Arte Moderna (admission free) and the Museo del Costume (admission €1.50).
In summer the action moves down to the beach at Vasto Marina. It gets very crowded in August but with a car you can escape north up the SS16 to the beautiful Spiaggia di Punta Penna and the Riserva Naturale di Punta Aderci (www.puntaderci.it), a 285-hectare area of uncontaminated rocky coastline.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel San Marco ( 0873 6 05 37; www.hotelsanmarcovasto.com; Via Madonna dell’Asilo 4; s €38-52, d €66-86; 
) Just off Corso Garibaldi in the upper town, this cracking little two-star is excellent value for money, offering slick modern rooms at far from designer prices. Free wi-fi is also thrown in.
Hostaria del Pavone ( 0873 6 02 27; Via Barbarotta; meals €35; Wed-Mon) With its brick barrel-vaulted ceiling and nautical knick-knacks, this highly regarded restaurant is a great place for creative seafood. Of the menu staples, the standout dish is brodetto alla vastese, Vasto’s signature fish soup.
Down in Vasto Marina, you can stock up on essentials at La Bottega del Gusto (Viale Dalmazia 96; 8am-1.15pm & 4.30-8.30pm, closed Mon afternoon), a minimarket one block back from the beach.
Getting There & Away
By car Vasto is on the A14 autostrada and the SS16, both of which run up the Adriatic coast.
The train station (Vasto—San Salvo) is about 2km south of Vasto Marina. Regional trains run to Pescara (€3.90, one hour, hourly) and Termoli (€2.20, 1¼ hours, 16 daily). From the station take bus 1 or 4 for Vasto Marina and the town centre (€0.90).
Return to beginning of chapter
MOLISE
One of Italy’s forgotten regions, Molise is one of the few parts of the country where you can still get off the beaten track. And while it lacks the grandeur of its northern neighbour, the lack of a slick tourist infrastructure and the raw, unspoiled countryside ensure a gritty authenticity, so often missing in more celebrated areas.
To get the best out of Molise, you really need your own transport.
Return to beginning of chapter
CAMPOBASSO
pop 51,320
Molise’s regional capital and main transport hub is a sprawling, uninspiring city with little to recommend it. However, if you do find yourself passing through, the pocket-sized centro storico is worth a quick look.
Although rarely open, the Romanesque churches of San Bartolomeo (Salita San Bartolomeo) and San Giorgio (Viale della Rimembranza) are fine examples of their genre. Further up the hill, at the top of a steep tree-lined avenue sits Castello Monforte ( 339 601 44 80; admission free; 10am-12.30pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun). Much of the squat, quadrangular tower that you see today was built in the 15th and 16th centuries after the original Norman castle was damaged by earthquake in 1456. Ceramics found in the castle are now on show at the small Museo Samnitico (Samnite Museum; 0874 41 22 65; Via Chiarizia 12; admission free; 9am-1pm, 2-5.30pm), along with artefacts from local archaeological sites.
The tourist office ( 0874 41 56 62; Piazza della Vittoria 14; 8am-5pm Mon & Wed, to 1.30pm Tue & Thu-Sat) can provide further information on the city and surrounding province. Online, Italian speakers can read up about the city’s sights at www.centrostoricocb.it.
For a spot of lunch, Trattoria La Grotta di Zi Concetta ( 0874 31 13 78; Via Larino 7; meals €25; Mon-Fri) is an old-school trattoria serving delicious home-made pasta and superb meat dishes.
Unless coming from Isernia, Campobasso is best reached by bus. Services link with Termoli (€3.20, 1¼ hours, nine daily), Naples (€9.60, 2¾ hours, four daily weekdays), and Rome (€11.60, 3½ hours, eight daily). Up to 14 daily trains run to/from Isernia (€2.80, one hour).
Return to beginning of chapter
AROUND CAMPOBASSO
One of Molise’s hidden treasures, the Roman ruins of Saepinum (admission free) are among the best preserved and least visited in the country. Unlike Pompeii and Ostia Antica, which were both major ports, Saepinum was a small provincial town of no great importance. It was originally established by the Samnites but the Romans conquered it in 293 BC, paving the way for an economic boom in the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. Some 700 years later, it was sacked by Arab invaders. The walled town retains three of its four original gates and its two main roads, the cardus maximus and the decamanus. Highlights include the forum, basilica and theatre, near to which the Museo Archeologico Vittoriano (admission €2; 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) displays artefacts unearthed on the site.
It’s not easy to reach Saepinum by public transport, but the Larivera ( 0874 6 47 44; www.lariverabus.it) bus from Campobasso to Sepinio (€1.20, six daily weekdays) generally stops near the site at Altilia, although it’s best to ask the driver.
Looming over the ruins are the Monti del Matese (Matese Mountains). The small town of Bojano is the starting point for various walks in the wooded hills, while further uphill the resort of Campitello Matese (elevation 1430m) is a popular ski resort with facilities for winter and summer sports.
Outside of the ski season and summer holiday period, the resort pretty much shuts up shop but you can always grab a bite at Ristorante 2000 ( 0874 78 42 03), a no-frills bar-cum-trattoria which serves door-stopper panini for €4.
From Campobasso regular buses connect with Bojano (€1.60, 30 minutes, 13 daily). Between December and March, Autolinee Micone ( 0874 78 01 20) runs three daily buses up to Campitello Matese (one hour).
Return to beginning of chapter
ISERNIA
pop 21,775
Surrounded by remote, scarcely populated hills, Isernia doesn’t make a huge impression. Earthquakes and a massive WWII bombing raid have spared little of its original centro storico and the modern centre is a drab, workaday place. The one reason to stop over is to visit the site of one of Europe’s oldest human settlements, a 700,000-year-old village unearthed by road workers in 1978 – see the boxed text, below.
If you don’t make it to the site, the dusty Museo Santa Maria delle Monache ( 0865 41 05 00; Corso Marcelli 48; admission €2; 8.30am-7.30pm) houses many of its findings, including piles of elephant and rhino bones, fossils and stone tools.
Isernia’s tourist office ( 0865 39 92; 6th fl, Palazzo della Regione, Via Farinacci 9; 8am-2pm Mon-Sat) can provide accommodation lists but little more in the way of practical help.
If you want to stay the night, Hotel Sayonara ( 0865 5 09 92; www.sayonara.is.it; Via G Berta 131; s/d €55/85; ) is the most centrally located hotel. It’s an anonymous business-style set-up but rooms are comfortable and there’s a convenient restaurant. You’ll eat far better though if you head down to the centro storico. Whet your appetite with an aperitivo at the square-side bar Alter Ego (Piazza Celestino V 23, cocktails from €5), before adjourning to O’Pizzaiuolo ( 0865 41 27 76; Corso Marcelli 214; pizzas €6, meals €20-25) for a delicious wood-fired pizza.
From the bus terminus next to the train station on Piazza della Repubblica, Trasporti Molise ( 0874 49 30 80; www.molisetrasporti.it) runs buses to Campobasso (€2.80, 50 minutes, eight daily) and Termoli (€6.40, 1¾ hours, three daily). Get tickets from Bar Ragno d’Oro on the square.
HOMO ERECTUS, ISERNIA’S OLDEST CITIZEN
Excavations are ongoing, although you can visit by calling the site office ( 0865 41 35 26; Contrada Ramiera Vecchia 1, Località La Pineta).
Trains connect Isernia with Sulmona (€7.10, 2¼ hours, two daily), Campobasso (€2.80, one hour, 14 daily), Naples (€6, 1¾ hours, six daily) and Rome (€10.50, two hours, six daily).
AROUND ISERNIA
The hills around Isernia are peppered with places of interest. About 30km northeast of town, outside Pietrabbondante, the remains of a 2nd-century-BC Samnite theatre-temple complex ( 0865 7 61 29; adult/concession €2/1; 10am-6pm) reward a visit, as much as anything for its panoramic setting high above the rolling green countryside.
En route, the 350-hectare Riserva Collemeluccio ( 9.30am-7pm Jun-Sep, to 5.30pm Apr-May, to 4.30pm Oct-Mar) is a prime picnic venue. It also offers good walking, with several trails leading off from the roadside visitors centre.
Further north, Agnone is an ancient hilltop town famous for its bell-making. For more than 1000 years, local artisans have been producing church bells for some of Italy’s most famous churches, including St Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Learn all about it at the Marinelli Pontificia Fonderia di Campane ( 0865 7 82 35; Via D’Onofrio 14; adult/child €4.50/2.50; guided tours 11am, noon, 4pm & 6pm Mon-Sat & 11am Sun Aug, noon & 4pm Mon-Sat & noon Sun Sep-Jul).
For further information and details of accommodation in the area, ask at the helpful tourist office ( 0865 7 72 49; www.prolocoagnone.com; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 78; 10am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm daily).
From Isernia, SATI ( 0874 60 52 20) buses serve Pietrabbondante (€1.50, 35 minutes, two daily) and Agnone (€2.05, one hour, nine daily). Buy tickets on the bus.
A 30km drive northwest of Isernia, near Castel San Vincenzo, the Abbazia di San Vincenzo al Volturno ( 0865 95 52 46; by appointment only) is famous for its cycle of 9th-century frescoes by Epifanio (824–842). The abbey, one of the foremost monastic and cultural centres in 9th-century Europe, is now home to a community of Benedictine nuns.
Larivera ( 0874 6 47 44; www.lariverabus.it) buses run between Isernia and Castel San Vincenzo (€1.50, 45 minutes, five daily), a 1km walk from the abbey.
Return to beginning of chapter
TERMOLI
pop 31,975
Despite its touristy trattorias and brassy bars, Molise’s top beach resort retains a winning, low-key charm. At the eastern end of the seafront, the pretty borgo antico (old town) juts out to sea atop a natural pier, dividing the sandy beach from Termoli’s small harbour. From the port, year-round ferries sail for the Isole Tremiti.
The helpful tourist office ( 0875 70 39 13; www.termoli.net; Piazza Bega 42, 1st flr; 8am-2pm Mon-Fri & 3-6pm Mon & Wed-Fri) is tucked away in a car park behind a small shopping gallery, 100m east of the train station.
The town’s most famous landmark, Frederick II’s 13th-century Castello Svevo ( 0875 71 23 54; on request) guards entry to the tiny borgo, a tangle of narrow streets, pastel-coloured houses and souvenir shops. From the castle, follow the road up and you come to Piazza Duomo and Termoli’s majestic 12th-century Cattedrale di San Basso ( 0875 70 63 59; Piazza Duomo; mass 8.30am Mon-Sat, 9am, 11am & 6.30pm Sun). A masterpiece of Puglian-Romanesque architecture, the cream-coloured facade features a striking round-arched central portal.
Sleeping
Coppola Villaggio Camping Azzurra ( 0875 5 24 04; www.camping.it/molise/azzurra; SS16 Europa 2; per person/tent/car €9/15/3, 4-person bungalow €65-130; mid-May—Sep; ) Termoli’s only camp site is a modern, beachfront affair 2km outside town on the SS16 coastal road. As well as shady tent pitches and bungalows, on-site facilities include a minimarket and restaurant.
Pensione Osteria San Giorgio ( 0875 70 43 84; www.pensionesangiorgio.it; Corso Fratelli Brigida 20-22; d €55-85, tr €75-110; year-round; ) Right in the heart of the action, this modest pensione has 10 clean, uncluttered rooms above a bustling osteria (meals €20). With their wrought-iron beds and clean tiled bathrooms, they’re pretty good value but they can get noisy in summer.
Residenza Savoia ( 0875 70 68 03; www.residenzasveva.com; Piazza Duomo 11; s €40-80, d €79-180; ) Discretion is the keyword at this elegant centro storico hotel. The reception is on Piazza Duomo, near the cathedral, but the 13 rooms are squeezed into several palazzi in the borgo. The style is summery with plenty of gleaming blue tiles and traditional embroidery.
Eating
La Sacrestia ( 0875 70 56 03; Via Ruffini 48-50; meals €25, pizzas €6; daily summer, closed Tue winter) One of the better restaurants in the lively area between Corso Nazionale and Via Fratelli Brigida. Sit streetside or in the brick vaulted interior and chow down on knockout pizza or fresh-off-the-boat seafood.
Ristorante Da Nicolino ( 0875 70 68 04; Via Roma 3; meals €35; Fri-Wed) Highly regarded by locals, this discreet restaurant serves the best seafood in town. It’s all exceptional, but if you really want to push the boat out, order the show-stopping brodetto di pesce (fish soup) served in a big earthenware tureen.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
Termoli is the only port with year-round ferries to the Isole Tremiti. The two main companies are Tirrenia Navigazione ( 0875 70 53 43; www.tirrenia.it), which runs a year-round ferry and Navigazione Libera del Golfo ( 0875 70 48 59; www.navlib.it), which operates a quicker hydrofoil. Buy tickets (€15.80 to €17.70 for the ferry; €15 to €19 for the hydrofoil) at the port.
BUS
Termoli’s intercity bus station is beside Via Martiri della Resistenza. Various companies operate from here, with services to/from Campobasso (€3.20, 1¼ hours, nine daily), Isernia (€6.40, 1¾ hours, three daily), Pescara (€4.90, 1¼ hours, four daily), Naples (€13, 3½ hours, four daily) and Rome (€15, four hours, nine daily).
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Termoli is on the A14 and SS16, which follow the coast north to Pescara and south to Bari. The SS87 links Termoli with Campobasso.
TRAIN
Direct trains serve Bologna (€23.20 to €37.50, 5¼ hours, 10 daily), Lecce (€23 to €32.50, five hours, six daily) and stations along the Adriatic coast.
Return to beginning of chapter
ALBANIAN TOWNS
Several villages to the south of Termoli form an Albanian enclave that dates back to the 15th century. These include Campomarino, Portocannone, San Martino in Pensilis and Ururi. Although the inhabitants shrugged off their Orthodox religion in the 18th century, they still use a version of Albanian that’s incomprehensible to outsiders. However, it’s for their carressi (chariot races) that the villages are best known. Each year Ururi (3 May), Portocannone (the Monday after Whit Sunday) and San Martino in Pensilis (30 April) stage a no-holds-barred chariot race. The chariots (more like carts) are pulled by bulls and hurtle round a traditional course, urged on by villagers on horseback.
Getting to these villages is quite a trial without your own transport but Larivera runs daily buses to all four from Termoli.