Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria 
PUGLIA
PROMONTORIO DEL GARGANO
ISOLE TREMITI
FOGGIA
LUCERA
TRANI
AROUND TRANI
BARI
AROUND BARI
MURGIA PLATEAU & TRULLI COUNTRY
BRINDISI
LECCE
PENISOLA SALENTINA
OTRANTO
AROUND OTRANTO
GALLIPOLI
TARANTO
BASILICATA
IONIAN COAST
MATERA
VENOSA
POTENZA
TYRRHENIAN COAST
PARCO NAZIONALE DEL POLLINO
CALABRIA
PARCO NAZIONALE DEL POLLINO
NORTHERN TYRRHENIAN COAST
COSENZA
LA SILA
IONIAN COAST
CATANZARO
ASPROMONTE
REGGIO DI CALABRIA
SOUTHERN TYRRHENIAN COAST
Italy’s south is out on a limb; this is the heel of Italy, a hotter, edgier place than the urbane, sophisticated and, dare we suggest, mildly smug north. But the traditional north—south divide is starting to blur. Tuscany in the ’80s, Umbria in the ’90s…many of today’s trend-spotters feel the south and, in particular, Puglia, is the new darling of travellers in the know and holiday-home Brits.
This is not yet another dolce vita region that can be glibly described with a few apt superlatives. There are plenty of reminders of unrelenting poverty and plenty to regret –such as the stark urban sprawl of Brindisi and the industrial development around Potenza and Taranto.
The flip side is a rich and varied portfolio of plains in the south, mountains in the north and a dramatic and varied coastline. The people are similarly diverse, although share a fierce local pride, reflecting Greek, Spanish and Turkish influences in their culture and cuisine.
Basilicata is a crush of mountains and rolling hills with a dazzling stretch of coastline. Calabria is Italy’s wildest area with fine beaches, subtropical vegetation and a mountainous landscape with peaks frequently crowned by ruined castles. Puglia’s charms include 800km of coastline beneath limestone cliffs, interspersed with thick forests and olive groves.
This is an area that still feels like it has secret places to explore, although you will need your own wheels (and some Italian) if you plan to seriously sidestep from the beaten track.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Dip into the Disney-style scenario of the gnome-size trulli dwellings in Alberobello, Puglia
- Wonder at ornate baroque facades in Lecce
- Immerse yourself in nature exploring the verdant Promontorio del Gargano
- Discover one of Calabria’s most characterful old centres in seaside Tropea
- Vanish into the vast hills of La Sila in Calabria, and the Parco Nazionale del Pollino in both Basilicata and Calabria
- Drive or trek into the wilds of mysterious Aspromonte
- Explore the otherworldly sassi (former cave dwellings) of Matera in Basilicata
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PUGLIA
Puglia is sun-bleached landscapes, seascapes and silver olive groves; hilltop and coastal towns; factories and power stations; tarantella (mesmerising local folk music); fields stippled with a dazzle of spring flowers; cigarette-and-people-smuggling; elderly men on benches; elderly women mopping their front step; plenty of bicycles; summer carnivals; immigrants arriving by boat; and dialects that change from town to town.
Italy’s heel has the country’s longest coastline. Two seas meet here: the Adriatic to the east and the Ionian to the south. It’s legendary for its food, in a land where the cuisine is all-important: olive oil, grapes tomatoes, aubergines, artichokes, peppers, salami, fungi, olives and fresh seafood strain its table. The region looks out to sea and bears the marks of many invading overseas visitors: the Normans, the Spanish, the Turks, the Swabians and the Greeks. Puglia feels authentic – in some places it’s rare to hear a foreign voice. In July and August it becomes a huge party, with thousands of Italian tourists heading down here for their annual break.
They’re here to bask on some of Italy’s loveliest coastline, from the dramatic Promontorio del Gargano to the white-sand beaches of the Penisola Salentina. Geologically speaking the region resembles Croatia – the land mass to which it was once joined – rather than the rest of Italy. The coast alternates between glittering limestone precipices and long beaches edged by waters veering between emerald-green and dusky powder blue.
There are festivals here throughout the year, but fabulous events, concerts (often tarantella), and sagre (festivals, usually involving food) take place virtually every night in July and August. Check the www.quisalento.it website for a schedule.
History
At times Puglia feels Greek – and for good reason. This tangible legacy dates from when the Greeks founded a string of settlements along the Ionian coast in the 8th century BC. A form of Greek dialect (Griko) is still spoken in some towns southeast of Lecce. Historically, their major city was Taras (Taranto), settled by Spartan exiles who dominated until they were defeated by the Romans in 272 BC.
The long coastline made the region vulnerable to conquest. The Normans left their fine Romanesque churches, the Swabians their fortifications, and the Spanish their flamboyant baroque buildings. No one, however, knows exactly the origins of the extraordinary 16th-century, conical-roofed stone houses, the trulli, unique to Puglia.
Apart from invaders and pirates, malaria was long the greatest scourge of the south, forcing many towns to build away from the coast and into the hills. After Mussolini’s seizure of power in 1922 following WWI, the south became the frontline in his ‘Battle for Wheat’. This initiative was aimed at making Italy self-sufficient when it came to food, following the sanctions imposed on the country after its conquest of Ethiopia – Puglia is now covered in wheat fields, olive groves and fruit arbours.
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PROMONTORIO DEL GARGANO
The coast surrounding the promontory seems permanently bathed in a pink-hued, pearly light, providing a painterly contrast to the sea which softens from intense to powder blue as the evening draws in. It’s one of Italy’s most beautiful areas, encompassing white limestone cliffs, fairy-tale grottoes, sparkling sea, ancient forests, and tangled, fragrant maquis. Once connected to what is now Dalmatia, the ‘spur’ of the Italian boot has more in common with the land mass across the sea than with the rest of Italy. Creeping urbanisation was halted in 1991 by the creation of the Parco Nazionale del Gargano. Aside from its magnificent display of flora and the primeval forests of Quarto, Spigno and Umbra, the park takes in miracle town San Giovanni Rotonda (Click here) and the historic pilgrimage destination of Monte Sant’Angelo. Seaside towns Vieste and Peschici are popular summer destinations.
REGIONAL ITINERARY
italy’s authentic south One Week / Vieste / Maratea
Along the coast you’ll spot strange cat’s-cradle wood-and-rope arrangements. These are trabucchi, structures built by fishermen from where they cast their nets, and are unique to the area.
The main park office, Ente Parco Nazionale del Gargano (
0884 56 89 11; www.parcogargano.it, in Italian; Via Abate 121; 
9am-noon Mon-Fri, 3.45-6.30pm Mon-Wed), is in Monte Sant’Angelo, on the edge of town. On its website is a long list of official park guides.
Walks and excursions are organised by Soc Cooperative Ecogargano ( 0884 56 54 44) based in Monte Sant’Angelo, and Explora Gargano ( 0884 70 22 37; www.exploragargano.it) in Vieste, which runs jeep, quad-bike, mountain-bike and walking tours.
Foresta Umbra
The ‘Forest of Shadows’ is the Gargano’s enchanted interior – thickets of tall, epic trees, interspersed with picnic spots that are bathed in dappled light. It’s the last remnant of Puglia’s ancient forests: Aleppo pines, oaks, yews and beech trees shade the mountainous terrain. More than 65 different types of orchid have been discovered here while the wildlife includes roe deer, wild boar, foxes, badgers and the increasingly rare wild cat. Walkers and mountain bikers will find plenty of well-marked trails within the forest’s 5790 sq km.
There is a small centro visitatori (visitors centre) in the middle of the forest that houses a museum and nature centre ( 0884 8 80 55; www.ecogargano.it; €1.60; 9am-7pm Apr-Sep) with fossils, photographs and stuffed animals and birds. Half-day guided hikes can be organised from around €10 per person and walking maps are available (€2.50).
Specialist tour operators also organise excursions. From Vieste, Agenzia Sol ( 0884 70 15 58; www.solvieste.it; Via Trepiccioni 5) runs trekking, biking and jeep excursions in the Foresta Umbra, and boat trips around Vieste and to the Isole Tremiti.
La Chiusa delle More ( 330 543766; www.lachiusadellemore.it; Vallo dello Schiaffo; B&B per person €80-100; May-Aug; 
) offers an escape from the cramped coast. An attractive stone-built agriturismo (farm-stay), only 1.5km from Peschici, it’s set in a huge olive grove, and you can dine on home-grown produce, borrow mountain bikes and enjoy panoramic views from your poolside lounger. Note there is a three-night minimum stay.
Peschici
pop 4300
Perched above a turquoise sea and tempting beach, Peschici clings to the hilly, wooded coastline. It’s a pretty resort area, with a tight-knit old walled town of Arabesque whitewashed houses. The small town gets crammed in summer, so book in advance. Boats zip across to the Isole Tremiti in high season.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
The medieval town occupies the clifftop, while the newer parts extend inland and around the bay. The bus terminal is beside the sportsground, uphill from the main street, Corso Garibaldi. Turn right into the corso (main street) and walk straight to reach the old town.
There’s a small tourist office ( 0884 96 44 25; Corso Garibaldi 57; 10.30am-12.30pm & 5.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-12.30pm Sat).
SLEEPING & EATING
Peschici has several hotels and pensioni, and camp sites line the coast.
Baia San Nicola ( 0884 96 42 31; www.baiasannicola.it; camping 2 people, car & tent €27.50, 2-person bungalow per week €270-32; mid-May—mid-Oct) The best camp site in the area, 2km south of Peschici towards Vieste, Baia San Nicola is on a pine-shaded beach, and offers camping, bungalows, apartments and myriad amenities.
Locanda al Castello ( 0884 96 40 38; Via Castello 29; s €35-70, d €75-100; ) Staying here is like entering a large, welcoming family home. By the cliffs, with fantastic views, it’s definitely the pick of the old quarter. Enjoy hearty home cooking in the restaurant (meals €18).
Hotel Timiana ( /fax 0884 96 43 21; Viale Libeta 73; r per person €80-90; May—mid-Sep; ) Surrounded by well-manicured grounds 800m from the sea, small-scale Timiana is an elegant shuttered building with cool white rooms. It serves delicious traditional dishes. Free shuttle to the beach.
La Collinetta ( 0884 96 41 51; Madonna di Loreto; meals €25; Apr-Sep; ) Located 2.5km before Peschici on the coastal road from Vieste. This is a classy restaurant serving fresh fish, with a sunny terrace overlooking the pine trees, olive groves and azure coast.
Also recommended is midrange Il Villaggio ( 0884 70 61 38; www.holidayvillagevieste.it; Loc Baia di Sfinale; Apr-Sep), around 4km outside Peschici. It’s situated on a beautiful sweep of beach and offers campsites, bungalows and mobile homes.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Ferrovie del Gargano ( 0881 58 72 11; www.ferroviedelgargano.com, in Italian) buses run between Peschici and Vieste (€1.30, 35 minutes, 11 daily). From April to September, daily boats serve the Isole Tremiti (adult/12 to 25 years/under 12 years €30/20/free, one to 1½ hours). For boat tickets and information, try the following:
- MS&G Societá di Navigazione ( 0884 96 27 32; www.msgnavigazioni.it; Corso Umberto I 20)
- Navigare SRL ( 0884 96 42 34; Corso Umberto I)
Lago di Lesina & Lago di Varano
Huge lagoons run along the Adriatic coast north of Peschici. An 800m-wide dune separates the 20km-long Lago di Lesina from the sea, while Lago di Varano is 10km long and even more isolated. Excellent for bird watching, biking trails and walks; the Lesina Visitor Centre ( 0882 99 27 27; Via Banchina Vollaro; 9-1.30pm & 4-8pm) has more information.
Vieste
pop 13,600
Vieste is a small, steep, cobbled town, with a delightful centro storico, spilling down the hillside. It’s the Gargano capital and sits above the area’s most spectacular beach, a gleaming wide strip backed by sheer white cliffs and overshadowed by the towering rock monolith, Scoglio di Pizzomunno. It’s packed in summer and ghostly quiet in winter.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
From Piazzale Manzoni, where intercity buses terminate, a 10-minute walk east along Viale XXIV Maggio, which becomes Corso Fazzini, brings you into the old town and the Marina Piccola’s attractive promenade.
- Post office (Via 4 Novembre 1)
- Tourist office ( 0884 70 88 06; Piazza Kennedy; 8am-1.30pm Mon-Fri & 4-7pm Tue-Thu Oct-Apr, 8am-1.30pm & 3-9pm Mon-Sat May-Sep)
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Vieste is about beaches, eating and drinking; for the latter head for Via Pola’s seafront bars and clubs. The most gruesome of the handful of sights here is the Chianca Amara (Bitter Stone; Via Cimaglia), where thousands were beheaded when Turks sacked Vieste in the 16th century. Nearby is a castle built by Frederick II. It’s occupied by the military and closed to the public. Built by the Normans on the ruins of a Vesta temple, the cathedral (Via Duomo) is in Puglian-Romanesque style with a fanciful tower that resembles a cardinal’s hat. It was rebuilt in 1800.
The Museo Malacologico ( 0884 70 76 88; Via Pola 8; admission free; 10am-1.30pm & 4-7pm) has three rooms of fossils and molluscs (shells), some enormous and all beautifully patterned and coloured. Prices start at a reasonable €3.
At the port, Centro Ormeggi e Sub ( 0884 70 79 83; May-Sep) offers diving courses and rents out sailing boats and motorboats. You can also visit nearby grottos with Leonarda Motobarche ( 0884 70 13 17; www.motobarcheleonarda.it; per person €13; Apr-Sep)
From May to September fast boats zoom to the Isole Tremiti.
Superb sandy beaches surround the town: in the south, Spiagga del Castello, Cala San Felice and Cala Sanguinaria, and due north head for the area known as La Salata.
Take a beach break and go walking or cycling with Agenzia Sol ( 0884 70 15 58; www.solvieste.it; Via Trepiccioni 5) in the Foresta Umbra.
SLEEPING
Most of Vieste’s hotels and pensioni are scattered along the beachfront roads north and south of town. Camp sites line the coast.
Campeggio Capo Vieste ( 0884 70 63 26; Litoranea Vieste-Peschici Km8; camping 2 people, car & tent €33; Mar-Oct) This wood-shaded camp site is right by a sandy beach at La Salata, around 8km from Vieste and accessible by bus. Activities include tennis and a sailing school.
B&B Rocca sul Mare ( 0884 70 27 19; www.roccasulmare.it; Via Mafrolla 32; r incl breakfast €50-120) In a former convent in the old quarter, this place has charm, with large, plain, high-ceilinged rooms, some busy tilework and steep staircases. Some rooms open onto the original cloisters and there’s a vast rooftop terrace with panoramic views. Meals available.
Villa Scapone ( 0884 55 92 84; www.villascapone.it; Litoranea Mattinata—Vieste Km11.5; r €55-110; Apr-Oct; ) An attractive villa fantastically sited on the cliffs between Mattinata and Vieste. The hotel terraces, sundecks and elegant rooms all share stunning sea views. A secluded sliver of beach and sea can be reached through the rocks.
Hotel Seggio ( 0884 70 81 23; www.hotelseggio.it; Via Veste 7; d €80-150; Apr-Oct; ) A butter-coloured palazzo (mansion) in the town’s historic centre with steps that spiral down to a pool and sunbathing terrace with the backdrop of the sea. The rooms are modern and plain but it’s family-run and has a warm Italian feel.
EATING
Vecchia Vieste ( 0884 70 70 83; Via Mafrolla 32; meals €20; Mar-Oct) A cosy stone-vaulted interior equals a cosy setting for dining on reliably good local dishes like orecchiette, cozze e rucula (‘little ears’ pasta with mussels and rocket).
Osteria degli Angeli ( 0884 70 11 12; Via Celestino V 50; meals €20; late May-Sep) Tucked away on an arched alley near the cathedral is this friendly restaurant offering great cooking in a stone-vaulted interior. Try the troccoli dell’angeli (pasta with prawns) or parmigiana di melanzane (baked aubergine with mozzarella).
Al Cantinone ( 0884 70 77 53; Via Mafrolla 26; meals €20) Run by a charming Italian-Spanish couple who have a passion for cooking; the food is exceptional and exquisitely presented. Try the asparagus risotto or penne with fave beans, potatoes and pecorino cheese. Out of the approximate 100 restaurants in town, this is one of the 15 or so that stays open all year – hooray!
Enoteca Vesta ( 0884 70 64 11; Via Duomo 14; meals €25) Housed in a cool, vaulted cave, you can savour a magnificent selection of Puglian wines here to accompany innovative dishes like fried stuffed anchovies with cheese and eggs and baked grey mullet with wild fennel.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Vieste’s port is to the north, about a five-minute walk from the tourist office. In summer several companies, including Navigazione Libera del Golfo ( 0884 70 74 89; www.navlib.it), head to the Isole Tremiti. Tickets can be bought portside and there are several daily boats (€16.50, 1½ hours).
Several companies also offer tours of the caves which pock the Gargano coast – a three-hour tour costs around €13.
SITA ( 0881 35 20 11; www.sitabus.it, in Italian) buses run between Vieste and Foggia (€5.70, 2¾ hours, four daily) via Manfredonia, and between Vieste and Monte Sant’Angelo (€4.40), while Ferrovie del Gargano ( 0881 58 72 11; www.ferroviedelgargano.com, in Italian) services go to Peschici (€1.30, 35 minutes, 11 daily).
Agenzia Sol (see left) also sells bus and boat tickets.
Monte Sant’Angelo
pop 13,800 / elev 796m
One of Europe’s most important pilgrimage sites, this isolated mountain-top has an extraordinary atmosphere. Pilgrims have been coming here for centuries – so have the hustlers, pushing everything from religious kitsch to parking spaces.
The object of devotion is the Santuario di San Michele. Here, in AD 490, St Michael the Archangel is said to have appeared in a grotto to the Bishop of Siponto. He left behind his scarlet cloak and instructions not to consecrate the site as he had already done so.
During the Middle Ages, the sanctuary marked the end of the Route of the Angel, which began in Normandy and passed through Rome. In 999 the Holy Roman Emperor Otto III made a pilgrimage to the sanctuary to pray that prophecies about the end of the world in the year 1000 would not be fulfilled. His prayers were answered, the world staggered on and the sanctuary’s fame grew – possibly globally these days –at least judging from the surprising number of wi-fi hot spots around town.
SIGHTS
Look out for 17th-century pilgrims’ graffiti as you descend the steps to the Santuario di San Michele (admission free; 7.30am-7.30pm Jul-Sep, 7.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Apr-Jun & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar). St Michael is said to have left a footprint in stone inside the grotto, so it became customary for pilgrims to carve outlines of their feet and hands.
Etched Byzantine bronze and silver doors, cast in Constantinople in 1076, open into the grotto itself. Inside, a 16th-century statue of the archangel covers the site of St Michael’s footprint.
Once outside, descend the short flight of steps opposite the sanctuary to the Tomba di Rotari (admission €0.60; 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Apr-Oct) –not a tomb, but a 12th-century baptistry with a deep sunken basin for total immersion. You enter the baptistry through the facade of the Chiesa di San Pietro, with its intricate rose window squirming with serpents – all that remains of the church, destroyed by a 19th-century earthquake. The Romanesque portal of the adjacent 11th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore has some fine bas-reliefs.
The town’s serpentine alleys and jumbled houses are perfect for a little aimless ambling. Heading up to the highest point you’ll reach a rugged, bijou Norman castle (admission €1.80; 8am-7pm Jul & Aug, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Sep-Jun) with Swabian and Aragonese additions and lovely views. Head for the belvedere for more sweeping vistas.
SLEEPING & EATING
Casa di Pellegrino ( 0884 56 23 96; Via Carlo d’Angio; s/d €33/45) The pilgrims’ lodge is an institutional but intriguing place, with around 50 rooms above the sanctuary, beside the main car park. The atmosphere veers somewhere between a private hospital and The Shining, but rooms are comfortable and many have views. There’s an 11pm curfew and a 9.30am checkout.
Hotel Michael ( 0884 56 55 19; www.hotelmichael.com; Via Basilica 86; s €45-50, d €65-75; ) A small hotel with shuttered windows on the main street, across from the sanctuary, this traditional place has spacious rooms with extremely pink bedspreads. Ask for a room with a view.
WHO IS THE GENIAL MONK?
The Convent of the Minor Capuchin Friars ( 0882 41 71; www.conventopadrepio.com) includes Padre Pio’s cell ( 7.30am-noon & 3.30-6.30pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Sep-May), a simple room containing mementoes such as his blood-stained socks. The old church, where he used to say Mass, dates from the 16th century. The spectacular new church, designed by Genovese Renzo Piano (who also designed Paris’ Pompidou Centre), resembles a huge futuristic seashell, with an interior of boney vaulting. Padre Pio’s body now lies in the geometric perfection of the semicircular crypt.
La Jalantuúmene ( 0884 56 54 84; Piazza de Galganis 5; meals €40; lunch only Wed-Mon Feb-Dec) This renowned restaurant serves excellent fare, accompanied by a long, select wine list, in picturesque surroundings. In summer, tables spill into the piazza.
SHOPPING
Odori Sapori ( 0884 56 39 27; Largo Tomba di Rocari 3) Buy the local speciality here: ostie ripiene (or ‘stuffed Hosts’) – wafers resembling the Hosts used at Mass, filled with caramelised almonds. Ask for a taste of the delicious local liquor, Amaro O Limon made with olives and lemons.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Monte Sant’Angelo can be accessed by SITA ( 0881 35 20 11; www.sitabus.it, in Italian) buses from Foggia (€3.45, 1¾ hours, three daily) and from Vieste (€4.40, two hours, five daily). Buy your tickets from Bar Esperia next to the sanctuary.
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ISOLE TREMITI
pop 400
This beautiful archipelago of three islands, 36km offshore, makes for a splendid trip. The hour-long boat ride takes you to a world of raggedy cliffs, sandy coves and thick pine woods, surrounded by the glittering dark-blue sea.
Unfortunately the islands are no secret, and in July and August some 100,000 holiday-makers descend on the archipelago, somewhat masking the islands’ tranquillity – although not its natural beauty. In the low season most tourist facilities close down, and the few permanent residents resume their quiet and isolated lives.
The islands’ main facilities are on San Domino, the largest and lushest island, which was formerly used to grow crops. It’s ringed by alternating sandy beaches and limestone cliffs, while the inland is covered in thick maquis flecked with rosemary and foxgloves. The centre harbours a nondescript small town with several hotels.
Easily defended, the small San Nicola island is the traditional administrative centre – a castlelike cluster of medieval buildings rises up from the rocks. The third island, Capraia, is uninhabited.
Most boats arrive at San Domino. Small boats regularly make the brief crossing to San Nicola (€6 return) in high season – from October to March a single boat makes the trip after meeting the boat from the mainland.
Sights & Activities
Head to San Domino for walks, grottoes and coves. It has a pristine, marvellous coastline, and the islands’ only sandy beach, Cala delle Arene. Alongside the beach there is a small cove Grotta dell’Arene with calm clear waters for swimming. You can also take a boat trip (€12 from the port) around the island to explore the grottoes: the largest, Grotta del Bue Marino, is 70m long. A tour around all three islands costs €17. Diving in the translucent sea is another option with Tremiti Diving Center ( 337 648917; www.tremitidivingcenter.com; Via Federico 2, San Domino).
There’s an undemanding, but enchanting, walking track around the island, starting at the far end of the village. Alternatively, you could hire wheels from Jimmy Bike ( 338 8970909; www.jimmybike.com; bicycle/scooter per day €20/50) at Piazzetta San Domino.
Medieval buildings thrust out of San Nicola’s rocky shores, the same pale-sand colour as the barren cliffs. In 1010 Benedictine monks founded the Abbazia e Chiesa di Santa Maria here, and for the next 700 years the islands were ruled by a series of abbots who accumulated great wealth. Although the church retains a weather-worn Renaissance portal and a fine 11th-century floor mosaic, its other treasures have been stolen or destroyed throughout its troubled history. The only exceptions are a painted wooden Byzantine crucifix brought to the island in AD 747 and a black Madonna, probably transported here from Constantinople in the Middle Ages.
The third of the Isole Tremiti, Capraia, (named after the wild caper plant) is uninhabited. Birdlife is plentiful, with impressive flocks of seagulls. There’s no organised transport, but trips can be negotiated with local fishermen.
Sleeping & Eating
In summer you’ll need to book well ahead and many hotels insist on full board. Camping is forbidden.
Pensione Ristorante-Bar Belvedere ( 0882 46 32 82; Via Garibaldi 6, San Domino; r €50-140) Located above a bustling year-round cafe, this guest house has plain, pretty rooms with tiled floors and sea views.
Hotel Gabbiano ( 0882 46 34 10; www.hotel-gabbiano.com, in Italian; Piazza Belvedere, San Domino; s/d incl breakfast €45-85/€70-120; ) Run for more than 30 years by a Neapolitan family, this smart hotel has pastel-coloured rooms with balconies overlooking San Nicola and the sea. Its renowned terrace restaurant offers straight-from-the-sea fish. Facilities include a games room with billiards. Across the road from Pensione Belvedere.
Architiello ( 0882 46 30 54; San Nicola; meals €25; Apr-Oct) A class act with a sea-view terrace, this specialises in – what else – fresh fish.
Getting There & Away
Boats for the Isole Tremiti depart from several points on the Italian mainland: Manfredonia, Vieste and Peschici in summer (Click here), and Termoli in nearby Molise year-round (Click here).
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FOGGIA
pop 155,000
Foggia’s name derives from its famous fovea (grain stores). Entering Puglia from the north you descend from Molise’s lush pastures to the sun-baked flatness of the Tavoliere plain, a golden wheat-producing expanse – though tomatoes are increasingly creeping into the picture – and into Foggia.
Frederick II (1194–1250) loved Foggia, and his heart was kept here in a casket until the massive earthquake of 1731 destroyed the town and most things in it. More destruction came during WWII as strategic airbases nearby became prime bomb targets. The damaged buildings were replaced by some gruesome 1960s architecture, though a kernel of medieval city remains in the centre.
Besides the 12th-century cathedral, there’s little to detain you here, though nearby Troia and Lucera are worth a visit.
Orientation & Information
Train and bus stations face Piazza Vittorio Veneto, on the town’s northern rim. Viale XXIV Maggio – with hotels, restaurants and shops – leads south into Piazza Cavour. The tourist office ( 0881 72 31 41; 1st fl, Via Senatore Emilio Perrone 17; 8am-2pm Mon-Fri, plus 3-6pm Tue & Thu) is near Piazzale Puglia.
Sights
The 12th-century Romanesque cathedral ( 7am-12.30pm & 5-8pm), is off Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. The lower half is Romanesque; the upper part was rebuilt in exuberant baroque style after the earthquake in 1731. Most of the cathedral’s treasures were lost in the quake but you can see a Byzantine icon preserved in a chapel inside the church. Legend has it that, in the 11th century, shepherds discovered the icon lying in a pond over which burned three flames. These flames are now the symbol of the city.
The Museo Civico ( 0881 72 62 45; Piazza Nigri; admission free; 9am-1pm Tue-Sun & 4-7pm Tue & Thu) houses archaeological finds from the area, folk crafts and some Carlo Levi paintings in an attractive old palazzo.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Cicolella ( 0881 56 61 11; www.accorhotels.com; Viale XXIV Maggio 60; s/d incl breakfast €100-135/€130-160; ) Situated near the railway station, Foggia’s finest hotel, a rust-red landmark, was founded more than 100 years ago but is now one of the contemporary Mercure chain. The rooms sport parquet or carpeted floors plus all mod cons, while the restaurant is one of the best in town.
Ristorante Margutta ( 0881 70 80 60; Via Piave 33; meals €25) Hung with ivy, this friendly frescoed restaurant is justifiably popular. It specialises in fish dishes, including an excellent grigliata mista di pesce (mixed fish grill).
Getting There & Around
BUS
Buses depart from Piazzale Vittorio Veneto, by the train station, for towns throughout Foggia province. Reduced service at weekends.
SITA ( 0881 35 20 11; www.sitabus.it, in Italian) and Ferrovie del Gargano ( 0881 58 72 11; www.ferroviedelgargano.com, in Italian) have services to/from Vieste (€5.70, 2¾ hours, at least five daily), Monte Sant’Angelo (€3.40, 1¾ hours, at least 10 daily) and Lucera (€1.65, 30 minutes, hourly).
TRAIN
There are frequent services to Bari (from €14, 1½ hours) and on to Brindisi (from €13.70, three hours) and Lecce (from €16, 3¼ hours). Northwards, trains head for Ancona (€48, 3½ hours) and Milan (€68, seven to nine hours).
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LUCERA
pop 35,036 / elev 219m
Lovely off-the-beaten-track Lucera has one of Puglia’s most impressive castles and a handsome old town centre with mellow sand-coloured brick and stone work and chic shops lining wide shiny-stone streets.
Founded by the Romans in the 4th century BC, it was abandoned by the 13th century. Following excommunication by Pope Gregory IX, Frederick II decided to bolster his support base in Puglia by importing 20,000 Sicilian Arabs, simultaneously diminishing the headache Arab bandits were causing him in Sicily.
It was an extraordinary move by the Christian monarch, even more so because Frederick allowed Lucera’s new Muslim inhabitants the freedom to build mosques and practise their religion a mere 290km from Rome.
History, however, was less kind; when the town was taken by the rabidly Christian Angevins in 1269, every Muslim who failed to convert was slaughtered.
Lucera’s tourist office ( 0881 52 27 62; 9am-2pm & 3-8pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, 9am-2pm Oct-Mar) is near the cathedral.
Sights
Frederick II’s enormous castle (admission free; 9am-2pm year-round & 3-7pm Apr-Sep), shows just what a big fish Lucera once was in the Puglian pond. Built in 1233, it’s 14km northwest of Lucera on a rocky hillock surrounded by a perfect 1km pentagonal wall, guarded by 24 towers.
On the site of Lucera’s Great Mosque, Puglia’s only Gothic cathedral ( 6.30am-noon & 4-7pm May-Sep, 5-8pm Oct-Apr) was built in 1301 by Charles II of Anjou. The altar was once the castle banqueting table.
Dominated by a huge rose window, the contemporaneous Gothic Chiesa di San Francesco ( 8am-noon & 4-7pm) incorporates recycled materials from Lucera’s 1st-century-BC Roman amphitheatre (admission free; 8am-2.30pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sun). The amphitheatre was built for gladiatorial combat and accommodated up to 18,000 people. It’s undergoing restoration so check if it’s open at the tourist office.
Sleeping & Eating
B&B Elena degli Angeli ( 0881 53 04 46; Piazza Oberdan 3; r €60-80; 
) There are just four atmospheric rooms here with frescoes, handsome wooden bedheads and dizzily patterned tiles. The small outside terrace has rooftop views. The excellent and stylish downstairs restaurant (meals €25) is run by the owner’s son.
Le Foglie di Acanto ( 349 4514937; www.lefogliediacanto.it; Via Frattarolo 3; s/d €70/100) Run by an enthusiastic brother and sister team this former 16th-century palazzo has elaborately frescoed ceilings, sumptuous floor tiles, exquisite antiques and a charming shady garden. Breakfast features organic jams and the like.
La Tavernetta ( 0881 52 00 55; Via Schiavone 7; pizzas from €4; Tue-Sun) Located in a large exposed-brick cellar with jaunty tablecloths and an enthusiastic young staff, the crispy wood-fired pizzas are excellent. La Tavernetta is behind the cathedral.
Il Cortiletto ( 0881 54 25 54; Via de Nicastri 26) A superb restaurant with a barrel-vault interior, central courtyard and a menu that includes traditional dishes like orecchiette with cimie di rape (bitter greens) and cozze pelose (Puglia’s indigenous clams).
Getting There & Away
Regular SITA and Ferrovie del Gargano buses (€1.65, 30 minutes) run to Lucera from Foggia.
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TRANI
pop 53,520
Trani is a Pugliese gem. Shimmering with a mother-of-pearl light, it has a sophisticated feel, particularly in summer when well-heeled visitors pack the diminutive array of marina-side bars. Its Norman cathedral and piazza, perched above the sea, are an unforgettable sight – especially after a few glasses of the local sweet tipple, Moscato di Trani.
The historic centre with its medieval churches and glossy stone streets indicate a prosperous past. During the Middle Ages the town rivalled Bari in importance, and became a major embarkation point for merchants travelling to the Near East.
Orientation & Information
From the train station, Via Cavour leads through Piazza della Repubblica to Piazza Plebiscito and the public gardens. Turn left for the harbour and cathedral.
The tourist office ( 0883 58 88 30; www.traniweb.it; 1st fl, Palazzo Palmieri, Piazza Trieste 10; 8.30am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, plus 3.30-5.30pm Tue & Thu) is 200m south of the cathedral.
Sights
Surrounded by a rare light and space, the dramatic seafront cathedral (Piazza del Duomo; 8.15am-12.15pm & 3.15-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.45pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun) is dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim, famous for being foolish. The Greek Christian wandered through Puglia, crying ‘Kyrie eleison’ (Greek for ‘Lord, have mercy’). First thought to be a simpleton, he was revered after his death (aged 19) after several miracles attributed to him occurred.
Started in 1097 on the site of a Byzantine church, the cathedral was completed in the 13th century. The magnificent original bronze doors (now displayed inside) were cast by Barisano da Trani, an accomplished 12th-century artisan.
The interior of the cathedral reflects typical Norman simplicity, and is lined by colonnades. Near the main altar are the remains of a 12th-century floor mosaic, stylistically similar to that in Otranto. Below the church is the crypt, a forest of ancient columns where the bones of St Nicholas are kept beneath the altar.
Two hundred metres north of the cathedral is Trani’s other major landmark, the vast, almost modernist Swabian castle ( 0883 50 66 03; Piazza Manfredi 16; admission €2; 8.30am-7.30pm) built by Frederick II in 1233. Charles V later strengthened the fortifications, and it was used as a prison from 1844 to 1974.
Also in the historic centre is the 12th-century Ognissanti Church (Via Ognissanti; hours vary), built by the Knights Templar. Here Norman knights swore allegiance to Bohemond I of Antioch, their leader, before setting off on the First Crusade.
Scolanova Church ( 0883 48 17 99; Via Scolanova 23; hours vary) was one of four former synagogues in the ancient Jewish quarter. They were all converted to churches in the 14th century. Inside is a beautiful Byzantine painting of Madonna dei Martiri.
Sleeping
B&B Trani ( 0883 50 61 76; www.bbtrani.it; Via Leopardi 29; s/d incl breakfast €33-40/56-68) With pots of character, this simple, old-fashioned B&B inhabits an old backstreet monastery and is run by an elderly couple. There’s a rooftop terrace with fabulous views and a pretty-in-pink breakfast room.
Albergo Lucy ( 0883 48 10 22; www.albergolucy.com; Piazza Plebiscito 11; d/tr/q €60/80/100) In a restored 17th-century palazzo overlooking a leafy square, close to the shimmering port, this place offers a cheery welcome and huge, high-ceilinged rooms full of charm and light.
Hotel Regia ( /fax 0883 58 44 44; www.hotelregia.it; Piazza del Duomo 2; s/d €120-130/130-150; ) A lone building facing the cathedral, the understated grandeur of 18th-century Palazzo Filisio houses a charming hotel. Rooms are sober and stylish, and there’s a good restaurant (meals €30).
Eating
Osteria Ferro e Fuoco ( 0883 58 73 87; Piazza Mazzini 8; meals €25) This new kid on the block serves reliably good dishes including fried ricotta antipasti and roasted veal chops. It has a charming position on the piazza with terrace seating overlooking time-worn traditional buildings adorned with washing.
La Darsena ( 0883 48 73 33; Via Statuti Marittimi 98; meals €30; Tue-Sun) Renowned for its seafood, La Darsena is housed in a waterfront palazzo. Outside tables are shielded by thick greenery while inside photos of old Puglia cover the walls beneath a huge wrought-iron dragon chandelier.
Corteinfiore ( 0883 50 84 02; Via Ognissanti 18; meals €30; Tue-Sun) Enjoys a light summery feel with a marquee-conservatory arrangement, wooden decking, buttercup-yellow tablecloths and bevies of friendly waiters. The wines are excellent and the cooking is delicious, with dishes such as pasta with monkfish and clams.
Getting There & Away
STP ( 0883 49 18 00; www.stpspa.it, in Italian) travels along the coast and inland, serving Barletta (€1.10, 30 minutes, half-hourly) and Bari (€2.95, 45 minutes, frequent). Services depart from Bar Stazione (Piazza XX Settembre 23), which also has timetables and tickets.
The SS16 runs through Trani, linking it to Bari and Foggia, or you can hook up with the A14 Bologna—Bari autostrada.
Trani is on the main train line between Bari (€3.50, 30 to 60 minutes, frequent) and Foggia (€6.50, 40 minutes, frequent) and is easily reached from other coastal towns.
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AROUND TRANI
Barletta
pop 92,094
Barletta is a modern prosperous town – as big as Lecce – and has a 4th-century bronze Colossus and a splendid art gallery (but little else in the way of sights).
Crusaders embarked for the Holy Land from Barletta’s port and King Richard the Lionheart helped build Barletta’s cathedral, the principal seat of the Archbishop of Nazareth for some 600 years (1291–1891).
In the centre, on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, looms an astonishing (and incongruous) sight: the 5m-high Roman Colossus, the largest surviving Roman bronze in the world and a bad-tempered fellow he looks too. The Venetians stole the Colossus in 1203 after the sack of Constantinople, but there was a shipwreck and the statue washed ashore. For years it lay untouched – Barletta’s inhabitants were too superstitious to go anywhere near it – but it was finally brought to the centre where its missing hands and legs were restored. It was nearly melted down in 1309 to make a bell.
The Pinacoteca Giuseppe de Nittis (0883 57 86 15; www.pinacotecadenittis.it; Via Cialdini 75; adult/concession €4/2; 10am-8pm Tue-Sun) has palatial surrounds and an impressive display of the work of local hero de Nittis (1846–1884), the only Italian impressionist, plus excellent temporary exhibitions.
From the bus station, STP ( 0883 49 18 00; www.stpspa.it) travels to Trani (€1.10, 30 minutes, half-hourly) and Bari (€3.45, one hour 20 minutes).
Castel del Monte
You’ll see Castel del Monte ( 0883 56 99 97; admission €3; 9am-6.30pm Oct-Feb, 3pm-7.45pm Mar-Sep), an unearthly geometric shape on a hilltop, from miles away. Mysterious, and perfectly octagonal, it’s one of southern Italy’s most talked-about landmarks and a Unesco World Heritage Site.
No-one knows why Frederick II built it. Nobody has ever lived here – note the lack of kitchens – and there’s no nearby town or strategic crossroads. It was not built to defend anything, as it has no moat or drawbridge, no arrow slits, and no trapdoors for pouring boiling oil on invaders.
Some theories claim that, according to mid-13th-century beliefs in geometric symbolism, the octagon represented the union of the circle and square, of God-perfection (the infinite) and man-perfection (the finite). The castle was therefore nothing less than a celebration of the relationship between man and God.
The castle has eight octagonal towers. Its interconnecting rooms have decorative marble columns and fireplaces, and the doorways and windows are framed in corallite stone. Many of the towers have washing rooms – Frederick II, like the Arab world he admired, set great store by cleanliness.
You need your own wheels to get here, otherwise there is a sporadic daily service from nearby Andria.
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BARI
pop 328,500
‘Se Parigi avesse il mare, sarebbe una piccola Bari’ (If Paris had the sea, it would be a little Bari). This popular saying tells you more about the local sense of humour than it does about the city, but Bari has a surprising amount of charm, particularly Bari Vecchia, its increasingly chic medieval old town.
Construction of the new city’s graceful grid was started in 1813. When independence was gained in 1861 it had 34,000 inhabitants, but since then it has spread apace north and south along the coast. A spanking new suburban business centre of glass skyscrapers has also recently opened.
Bari is Puglia’s capital and one of the south’s most prosperous cities – check out the designer shops along Via Sparano da Bari. Here you will eat and shop well alongside a demanding local clientele.
On a darker note, the fourth-largest mafia clan in Italy – and among the most feared – is the Sacra Corona Unita; a youthful Yakuza-style group operating from the notorious San Paolo suburb.
Orientation
Orient yourself from Piazza Aldo Moro in front of the main train station. Any of the streets heading north from Piazza Aldo Moro will take you to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which separates the old and new parts of the city, and further north to the ferry terminal.
Information
There are plenty of banks and ATMs in Bari.
- CTS ( 080 555 99 16; Via Postiglione 27) Good for student travel and discount flights.
- Hospital ( 080 557 57 24; Piazza Cesare)
- Morfimare Travel Agency ( 080 578 98 11; www.morfimare.it; Corso de Tullio 36-40) Ferry bookings.
- Netcafé ( 080 524 17 56; Via Andrea da Bari 11; per hr €4; 9am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun)
- Police station ( 080 529 11 11; Via Murat 4)
- Post office (Piazza Battisti; 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm Sat)
- Tourist office ( 080 990 93 41; www.pugliaturismo.com; 1st fl, Piazza Moro 33a; 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)
Dangers & Annoyances
Petty crime can be a problem, so take all the usual precautions: don’t leave anything in your car; don’t display money or valuables; and watch out for bag-snatchers on scooters. Be careful in Bari Vecchia’s dark streets at night.
Sights
BARI VECCHIA
Bari Vecchia – the old town – is a medieval labyrinth opening onto graceful piazzas, and crams in 40 churches and more than 120 shrines. It fills a small peninsula, sheltering the new port to the west and the old port to the southeast.
You could start your exploration with the chaotic market alongside Piazza del Ferrarese. Stumble out of there and walk north to the glorious medieval Piazza Mercantile, fronted by the Sedile, the headquarters of Bari’s Council of Nobles. In the square’s northeast corner is the Colonna della Giustizia (Column of Justice), where debtors were once tied and whipped.
Northwest past the small Chiesa di Santa Ana is the remarkable Basilica di San Nicola (Piazza San Nicola; 7am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1pm & 4-9pm Sun), one of the south’s first Norman churches. It’s a splendid example of Puglian-Romanesque style, built to house the relics of St Nicholas (better known as Father Christmas), which were stolen from Turkey in 1087 by local fishermen. His remains are said to emanate a miraculous manna liquid with special powers. For this reason – and because he is also patron saint of prisoners and children – the basilica remains an important place of pilgrimage. The interior is huge and simple with a decorative 17th-century wooden ceiling. The magnificent 13th-century ciborium over the altar is Puglia’s oldest. The shrine in the crypt, lit by hanging lamps, is beautiful.
A brief walk south along Via delle Crociate brings you to the 11th-century Romanesque cathedral (Piazza Odegitria; 8am-12.30pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm & 5-8.30pm Sat & Sun). Built over the original Byzantine church, the cathedral retains its basilica plan and Eastern-style cupola. The severely plain walls are punctuated with deep arcades and the eastern window is a tangle of plant and animal motifs.
CASTELLO SVEVO
The Castello Svevo (Swabian Castle; 083 184 00 09; Piazza Federico II di Svevia; admission €2; 8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue) broods on the edge of Bari Vecchia. The Normans originally built over the ruins of a Roman fort. Frederick II then built over the Norman castle, incorporating it into his design – the two towers of the Norman structure still stand. The bastions, with corner towers overhanging the moat, were added in the 16th century during Spanish rule, when the castle was a magnificent residence. Permanent and temporary art exhibitions are held here.
Festivals & Events
Festa di San Nicola (Festival of St Nicholas), held around 7 to 9 May, is Bari’s biggest annual shindig, celebrating the 11th-century arrival of St Nicholas’ relics (from Turkey). On the first evening a procession leaves Castello Svevo for the Basilica di San Nicola. The next day a fleet of boats carries the statue of St Nicholas along the coast and the evening ends with a massive fireworks competition.
Sleeping
Accommodation here tends to be bland and overpriced, aimed at business clientele. The Bari Vecchia is the most attractive part of town to stay, and is convenient for the ferry terminal.
Pensione Giulia ( 080 521 66 30; www.hotelpensionegiulia.it; Via Crisanzio 12; s/d €60/75, without bathroom €50/65) Near the train station, this popular place is family run with rooms that resemble a hospital ward, until you look up – most rooms sport truly lovely original frescoes (go for room 21 if you are angelically inclined). The bathrooms are the built-in boxy variety, so make sure you know your room-mate well.
Hotel Adria ( 080 524 66 99; www.adriahotelbari.com; Via Zuppetta 10; s/d €70/110; ) A dusky-pink building fronted by wrought-iron balconies, this is a great choice, with comfortable, good-value rooms that are bright and modern. Extras include Sky TV and a roof garden.
Domina Palace Hotel ( 080 521 65 51; www.dominahotels.com; Via Lombardi 13; s/d €195/260; 
) Look past the dated ’60s-style exterior and this is an oasis of luxury, with plush, elegant rooms and a renowned rooftop restaurant. Meals at the on-site Murat (€30), include refined dishes like honey-glazed turkey with truffle sauce, complemented by fantastic views.
Eating
Maccheroni Pizzerie a Metro ( 080 521 33 56; Via Gimma 90; pizzas €7-9) Not the place for a candlelit dinner for two, but great if you love pizza and people – equally. The long and short of it is that the whole table’s order is made into one continuous pizza, served by the metre and, most importantly, delicious.
Vini e Cucina ( 338 212 03 91; Strada Vallisa 23; meals €10; Mon-Sat) Run by the same family for more than a century, this boisterous osteria (wine bar serving some food) chalks up its daily specials of well-prepared and filling Pugliese dishes. Grab a seat in the brick-flanked tunnel of a dining room and wait (and wait) to be served by the one impressively indefatigable waiter.
Shodai ( 080 528 35 89; Piazza Massari; 23; meals €25) Bari’s first Japanese restaurant is deservedly popular. Enjoy Asian classics like vegetable tempura, salmon sashimi and tuna sushi in a suitably Zen-inspired interior, with tubular steel furniture complemented by a minimalistic black-and-red colour scheme.
Alberosole ( 080 523 54 46; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 13; meals €30; Tue-Sun Sep-Jul) Dine alongside bankers in Brioni suits at this elegant restaurant. The contemporary menu is complemented by a traditional dining room, complete with old stone floor and cathedral ceiling. The linguine con gamberi di Gallipoli, pesto di fave fresche e zenzero (linguine with prawns, fava bean pesto and ginger) comes recommended. Reserve ahead.
If you’re self-catering or stocking up for a ferry journey, pass by the market (Piazza del Ferrarese). For more information see opposite.
Drinking
Like most student towns, Bari is good for a night out. Kick start your evening with an aperitivo at Ferrarese ( 392 0744474; Piazza Ferrarese 1) overlooking the harbour on Piazza Ferrarese. Move on to Piazza Mercantile, where Bari’s young and beautiful congregate. A good start is Barcollo ( 080 521 38 89; Piazza Mercantile 69/70; cocktails €6; 8am-3am), where you can lounge on brilliant-red banquettes or sit outside on the twinkling square supping a cocktail and nibbling work-of-art hors d’oeuvres.
Shopping
Bari is superb for shopping. For designer shops and the main Italian chains, head for Via Sparano da Bari. Foodies are similarly well catered for with delis and gourmet shops located throughout the city.
De Carne ( 080 521 96 76; Via Calefati 128; 8am-2pm & 5-8.40pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat, 8am-2pm Thu) Breathe in delicious scents and seriously indulge by buying fine regional produce at this venerable delicatessen.
Il Germoglio ( 080 524 27 72; Via Putignani 204; 9am-1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat) A treasure trove of organic jams and cheeses.
Enoteca de Pasquale ( 080 521 31 92; Via Marchese di Montrone 87; 8am-2pm & 4-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Stock up on Puglian wines.
Getting There & Away
AIR
Bari’s Palese airport (BRI; 080 580 02 00; www.seap-puglia.it) is served by a host of international and budget airlines, including British Airways, Alitalia, Hapag-Lloyd Express and Ryanair.
BOAT
Ferries run from Bari to Greece, Turkey, Albania, Croatia, Serbia and Montenegro. All boat companies have offices at the ferry terminal, accessible on bus 20 from the main train station. Fares from Bari to Greece are generally more expensive than those for Brindisi to Greece. Tariffs can be up to one-third cheaper outside mid-July to late August. Bicycles are normally free.
The main companies and their routes:
- Blue Star Ferries ( 080 52 11 416; www.bluestarferries.com) Services depart for Patras and Igoumenitsa at 8pm daily.
- Jadrolinija ( in Croatia 385-516 66 111; www.jadrolinija.hr) To Dubrovnik in Croatia.
- Montenegro Lines ( 080 578 98 27; www.morfimare.it) Reservations via Morfimare Travel Agency (Click here); to Bar in Montenegro (10pm Sunday to Friday, April to September); Cephalonia (6.30pm July to September, every few days); Igoumenitsa (6.30pm daily, April to September); and Patrasso (6.30pm daily, April to September).
- Superfast ( 080 528 28 28; www.superfast.com) To Igoumenitsa, Patras and Corfu, in Greece. Daily departure at 8pm. Accepts Eurail, Eurodomino and Inter-Rail passes (port taxes and a high-season supplement payable).
- Ventouris Ferries ( for Greece 080 521 76 99, for Albania 521 27 56; www.ventouris.gr) Regular ferries to Igoumenitsa and Corfu (Greece) and daily ferries to Durrës (Albania).
BUS
Intercity buses leave from several locations. From Via Capruzzi, south of the main train station, SITA ( 080 579 01 11; www.sitabus.it, in Italian) covers local destinations. Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane ( 080 572 52 29; www.fal-srl.it, in Italian) buses serving Matera also depart from here, plus Marozzi ( 080 556 24 46; www.marozzivt.it) buses for Rome (€35, eight hours, 8.35 am,1pm, 4pm, 5pm, 11.50pm – the overnight bus departs from Piazza Moro) and other long-distance destinations.
Piazza Eroi del Mare is the terminal for STP ( 080 505 82 80; www.stpspa.it) buses serving Andria (€3.45, 1½ hours, seven daily) and Trani (€2.95, 45 minutes, frequent). Ferrotramviaria ( 080 578 95 42; www.ferrovienordbarese.it) runs frequent buses to Andria (€3.80, one hour) and Ruvo di Puglia (€3, 40 minutes).
Buses operated by Ferrovie del Sud-Est (FSE; 080 546 21 11; www.fseonline.it in Italian) leave from Largo Ciaia, south of Piazza Moro, for Brindisi (€6.60, 23 to 24 hours, four daily Monday to Saturday), Taranto (€5.30, 1¾ to 2¼ hours, frequent), Alberobello (€3.60, 1¼ hours) and on to Locorotondo and Martina Franca, Grotte di Castellana (€2.60, one hour) and Ostuni (€4.90, two hours).
TRAIN
A web of train lines spreads out from Bari. Note that there are fewer services on the weekend.
From the main train station ( 080 524 43 86) Eurostar trains go to Milan (from €68, eight to 9½ hours) and Rome (from €36, five hours). Frequent trains serve elsewhere in Puglia, including Foggia (from €14, 1½ hours) and Brindisi (from €6.80, 1¼ hours).
Ferrovia Bari-Nord ( 080 578 95 42; www.ferrovianordbarese.it) goes to the airport (€1.10, 10 minutes, around 20 daily), continuing to Bitonto, Andria and Barletta.
Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane ( 080 572 52 29; www.fal-srl.it) goes to Altamura (€2.90, one hour, at least hourly), Matera (€4.35, 1½ hours, 12 daily) and Potenza (€9.10, four hours, four daily).
FSE trains ( 080 546 21 11; www.fseonline.it, in Italian) head for the towns of Alberobello (€4.10, 1½ hours, hourly), Martina Franca (€4.90, two hours, hourly) and Taranto (from €7.40, 2½ hours, six daily), leaving from the station in Via Oberdan – cross under the train tracks south of Piazza Luigi di Savoia and head east along Via Capruzzi for about 500m.
Getting Around
Central Bari is compact – a 15-minute walk will take you from Piazza Moro to the old town. For the ferry terminal take bus 20 from Piazza Moro (€1.10).
Street parking is migraine-inducing. There’s a large free parking area south of the main port entrance, otherwise there’s a large multistorey car park between the main and Ferrovie del Sud-Est train stations and one on Via Zuppetta opposite Hotel Adria.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
To get to the airport, take the Cotrap bus (€4.50) which leaves regularly from the main train station. A taxi trip from the airport to town costs around €24.
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AROUND BARI
Polignano a Mare
Dip into this spectacularly positioned small town if you can. Located around 34km south of Bari on the S16 coastal road, Polignano a Mare is built on the edge of a craggy ravine pockmarked with caves.
On Sunday the logge (balconies) are crowded with day-trippers from Bari who come here to view the crashing waves, visit the caves and crowd out the cornetterias (shops specialising in Italian croissants) in the atmospheric centro storico. The town is thought to be one of the most important ancient settlements in Puglia and was later inhabited by successive invaders ranging from the Huns to the Normans. There are several baroque churches, an imposing Norman monastery and the medieval Porta Grande, the only access to the historic centre until the 18th century. You can still see the holes that activated the heavy drawbridge and the openings from where boiling oil was poured onto any unwelcome visitors to town.
There are a handful of hotels and B&Bs in town. Paluada ( 328 2858658; www.paluada.it; Via Martiri di Dogali 60; s €38-50, d €76-100) is conveniently located with pleasant modern rooms and easy parking nearby. You can enjoy tasty Spanish-style pinchos (snacks) at Boca Chica ( 333 3388496; Piazza San Benedetto; from €2.50) right on this pleasant piazza where locals congregate, children play and lovers stroll arm-in-arm. Several operators organise boat trips to the grottoes, including Dorino ( 329 64659 04), costing around €20 per person.
Although there is a twice-daily bus service from Bari, your own car is the best way to reach Polignano.
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MURGIA PLATEAU & TRULLI COUNTRY
Between the Ionian and Adriatic coasts rises the great limestone plateau of the Murgia (473m). It has a strange karst geology; the landscape is riddled with holes and ravines through which small streams and rivers gurgle, creating what is, in effect, a giant sponge. At the heart of the Murgia lies the idyllic Valle d’Itria. Here you will begin to spot curious circular stone-built houses dotting the countryside, their roofs tapering up to a stubby and endearing point. These are trulli, Puglia’s unique rural architecture. It’s unclear why the architecture developed in this way; one popular story says that it was so the dry-stone constructions could be quickly dismantled, to avoid payment of building taxes.
The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, vineyards, almond and olive groves and winding country lanes, and punctuated by the towns of Alberobello, Locorotondo, Cisternino, Martina Franca and Ostuni, each shimmering with charm. This is the part of Puglia most visited by foreign tourists and is the best served for hotels and luxury masserias (manor farms). Around here also are many of Puglia’s self-catering villas; to find them, try websites such as www.tuscanynow.com, www.ownersdirect.co.uk, www.holidayhomesinitaly.co.uk, www.longtravel.co.uk, and www.trulliland.co.uk.
Grotte di Castellana
Don’t miss these spectacular limestone caves ( 800 23 19 76, 080 499 82 11; www.grottedicastellana.it; Piazzale Anelli; 8.30am-7pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-12.30pm Nov-Mar), 40km southeast of Bari, and Italy’s longest natural subterranean network. The interlinked galleries, first discovered in 1938, contain an incredible range of underground landscapes, with extraordinary stalactite and stalagmite formations – look out for the jellyfish, the bacon and the stocking. The highlight is the Grotta Bianca (White Grotto), an eerie white alabaster cavern hung with stiletto-thin stalactites.
There are two tours in English: a 1km, 50-minute tour that doesn’t include the Grotta Bianca (€8, on the half-hour); and a 3km, two-hour tour (€13, on the hour) that does include it. The temperature inside the cave averages 15°C so take a light jacket. Visit, too, the Museo Speleologico Franco Anelli ( 080 499 82 30; admission free; 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm mid-Mar—Oct, 10am-1pm Nov—mid-Mar) or the Osservatorio Astronomico Sirio ( 080 499 82 11; admission €3), with its telescope and solar filters allowing for maximum solar-system visibility. Guided visits only with advance notification.
The grotto can be reached by rail from Bari on the FSE Bari—Taranto train line. Get off at Castellana Grotte (€2.60, one hour, hourly). From the station there are local buses to the caves, 2km away (€1.20).
Alberobello
pop 10,930
Unesco World Heritage Site Alberobello resembles a mini urban sprawl – for gnomes. The Zona dei Trulli on the western hill of town is a dense mass of 1500 beehive-shaped houses, white-tipped as if dusted by snow. These dry-stone buildings are made from local limestone, none older than the 14th century. Inhabitants do not wear pointy hats, but they do sell anything a visitor might want, from miniature trulli to woollen shawls.
The town is named after the primitive oak forest Arboris Belli (beautiful trees) that once covered this area. It’s an amazing area, but is also something of a tourist trap – from May to October busloads of tourists pile into trullo homes, drink in trullo bars and shop in trullo shops.
ORIENTATION
Alberobello spreads across two hills. The new town is perched on the eastern hilltop, while the Zona dei Trulli lies on the western hill, and consists of two adjacent neighbourhoods, the Rione Monti and the Rione Aia Piccola.
If you park in Lago Martellotta, follow the steps up to the Piazza del Popolo where Belvedere Trulli offers fabulous views over the whole higgledy-piggledy picture.
INFORMATION
- Tourist information office ( 080 432 28 22; www.prolocoalberobello.it; Monte Nero 1; 9am-7.30pm) Local office in the Zona dei Trulli.
- Tourist office ( 080 432 51 71; Piazza del Popolo; 8am-1pm Mon-Fri, plus 3-6pm Tue & Thu) In the Casa d’Amore, off the main square.
SIGHTS
Sightseeing in Alberobello mainly consists of wandering around admiring its eccentricity. Within the old town quarter of Rione Monti over 1000 trulli cascade down the hillside, most of which are now souvenir shops. To its east, on the other side of Via Indipendenza, is Rione Aia Piccola. This neighbourhood is much less commercialised, with 400 trulli, many still used as family dwellings. You can climb up for a rooftop view at many shops, although most do have a strategically located basket for a donation.
For the all-round trullo experience, you can stay in one. As well as trullo hotels, there are lots that have been converted into rentable holiday homes (see below).
In the modern part of town, the 18th- century Trullo Sovrano ( 080 432 60 30; www.trullosovrano.it; Piazza Sacramento; admission €1.50; 10am-6pm) is the only two-floor trullo, built by a wealthy priest’s family. It’s a small museum giving something of the atmosphere of trullo life, with sweet, rounded rooms which include a re-created bakery, bedroom and kitchen. The souvenir shop here has a wealth of literature on the town and surrounding area.
SLEEPING & EATING
It’s a unique experience to stay in your own trullo, though some people might find Alberobello too touristy to use as a base.
Camping dei Trulli ( 080 432 36 99; www.campingdeitrulli.com; Via Castellana Grotte, Km1.5; camping 2 people, car & tent €26.50, bungalows per person €22-30, trulli per person €30-44; ) This well-equipped camp site is 1.5km out of town. It has a restaurant, market, two swimming pools, tennis courts and bicycle hire, and you can also rent trulli or mini-apartments.
Trullidea ( 080 432 38 60; www.trullidea.it; Via Monte San Gabriele 1; 2-person trulli from €63-149) A series of 20 renovated trulli in Alberobello’s Trulli Zone, these are snug but can feel a bit dark as you’re hemmed in by the other trulli. They’re available on a self-catering, B&B, or half- or full-board basis.
Trattoria Amatulli ( 080 432 29 79; Via Garibaldi 13; meals €15; Tue-Sun) Excellent trattoria with a cheerily cluttered interior papered with photos of smiley diners, plus superb down-to-earth dishes like orecchietta al ragù con carne (‘little ears’ pasta in a meat-and-tomato based sauce). Wash it down with the surprisingly drinkable house wine costing the lordly sum of €4 a litre.
La Cantina ( 080 432 34 73; Vico Lippolis 8; meals €20; Wed-Mon Jul-Sep) Although tourists have discovered this place, it has maintained the high standards established back in 1958. There are just seven tables and one frenetic waiter, who serves dishes like tagliolina (fettuccine-style pasta) with porcini mushrooms and chestnuts, grilled meats and superb seasonal vegetables.
Il Poeta Contadino ( 080 432 19 17; Via Indipendenza 21; meals €60; Tue-Sun Feb-Dec) The dining room here has a medieval banqueting feel with its sumptuous decor and chandeliers. Although the tasting menu will set you back a cool €1000, you can dine for a lot less on dishes like guinea fowl with goose ham and black truffle (€23) or aubergine ravioli, seafood sauce and courgette julienne (€15).
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Alberobello is easily accessible from Bari (€4.10, 1½ hours, hourly) on the FSE Bari—Taranto train line. From the station, walk straight ahead along Via Mazzini, which becomes Via Garibaldi, to reach Piazza del Popolo.
Locorotondo
pop 14,000
Locorotondo (circular place) has an extraordinarily beautiful and whisper-quiet centro storico, where everything is shimmering white aside from the blood-red geraniums that tumble from the window boxes. Situated on a hilltop on the Murge plateau, it’s a borghi più belli d’Italia (www.borghitalia.it), that is, it’s rated as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. The streets are paved with smooth ivory-coloured stones, with the church of Santa Maria della Graecia their sunbaked centrepiece.
From Villa Comunale, a public garden, you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding valley. You enter the historic quarter directly across from here.
The tourist office ( 080 431 30 99; www.prolocolocorotondo.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 27; 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) is also in this part of town and offers free internet access.
Not only is this deepest trulli country, but it’s also the liquid heart of the Puglian wine region. You simply cannot come to Locorotondo without sampling some of the local Spumante. You can do this at the local winery, Cantina del Locorotondo ( 080 431 16 44; www.locorotondodoc.com; Via Madonna della Catena 99) run by congenial Oronzo Mastro.
Truddhi ( 080 443 13 26; www.trulliresidence.it; C da Trito 292; per week €450-741) is a small cluster of self-catering trulli in the hamlet of Trito near Locorotondo. It’s run by Mino and Carole and, being a lecturer in gastronomy, Mino is happy to give cooking demonstrations.
Charming trattoria U’Curdunn ( 080 431 70 70; Via Dura 19; meals €25; 9am-1am Sep-May, to 2am Wed-Mon Jun-Aug) is well signposted in the midst of the historic centre. It’s an arched, cosy restaurant – a cool, dark lunch spot to steal into on a blazingly bright day. All produce here is organic and you can expect good service and a buzzing atmosphere.
In a narrow side street next to an ancient tunnel is the well-regarded La Taverna del Duca ( 080 431 30 07; Via Papadotero 3; meals €35), a serene place serving local classics such as orecchiette with various vegetable sidekicks. The antipasto is also particularly good.
Locorotondo is easily accessible by frequent trains from Bari (€4, 1½ to two hours) on the FSE Bari—Taranto train line.
Cisternino
pop 12,050
An appealing hilltop town, slow-paced, whitewashed Cisternino has a charming centro storico beyond the bland modern outskirts. Beside its 13th-century Chiesa Matrice and Torre Civica there’s a pretty communal garden with rural views. If you take Via Basilioni next to the tower you can amble along an elegant route right to the central piazza, Vittorio Emanuele.
Just outside the historic centre, the tourist office ( 080 444 77 38; www.prolococisternino.it; Via San Quirico 18 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) can advise on B&Bs in the historic centre, but be prepared to suitcase-trundle, as parking can be a problem.
Cisternino has a grand tradition of fornello pronto (ready-to-go roast or grilled meat) and in numerous butchers’ shops and trattorias you can select a cut of meat, which is then promptly cooked on the spot. Try it under rustic whitewashed arches at Trattoria La Botte ( 080 444 78 50; Via Santa Lucia 47; meals €20; noon-3pm & 7pm-1am Mon-Wed & Sat Jun-Sep, to 11pm Oct-May), also serving up Pugliese favourites such as fave e verdura (beans and greens), which will bring a smile to the face of any vegetarian.
Cisternino is accessible by regular trains from Bari (€5.10, 45 minutes, three daily) on the FSE Bari—Taranto train line.
Martina Franca
pop 49,100
The old quarter of this town has a southern Spain feel to it, with its blinding white houses, blood-red geraniums and lively, lived-in feel. There are graceful baroque and rococo buildings here too, plus airy piazzas and curlicue iron-work balconies that are so wide (and neighbourly) above the narrow streets that they almost touch. This town is the highest in the Murgia, and was founded in the 10th century by refugees fleeing the Arab invasion of Taranto. It only started to flourish in the 14th century when Philip of Anjou granted tax exemptions (franchigie, hence Franca); the town became so wealthy that a castle and defensive walls complete with 24 solid bastions were built. The modern-day town is just as comfortable and contented as its historic counterpart and is a prosperous wine-producing centre.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
The FSE train station is downhill from the historic centre. Go right along Viale della Stazione, continuing along Via Alessandro Fighera to Corso Italia; continue to the left along Corso Italia to Piazza XX Settembre.
The tourist office ( 080 480 57 02; Piazza Roma 37; 9am-1pm Mon-Sat, 4.30-7pm Tue & Thu, 9am-12.30pm Sat) is within Palazzo Ducale (part of the Bibliotece Comunal).
LUSH LOCATIONS
Masseria Torre Coccaro ( 080 482 93 10; www.masseriatorrecoccaro.com; Contrada Coccaro 8, Savelletri di Fasano; d €333-466; ), around 10km from Locorotondo, has a hacienda feel. This super-chic yet countrified masseria is housed in an evocative fortified farmhouse, with a glorious spa set in a cave, a beach-style swimming pool, spa and restaurant (meals €90). Next door is Masseria Maizza (www.masseriatorremaizza.com; ). Run by the same people, it is a similarly luxurious farm-complex conversion but is more contemporary and glamorous, and aimed at couples. The two masserias share a balmy beach club (about 4km away) and neighbouring golf course and also run cookery courses. Closer to the coast is the converted 16th-century Masseria San Domenico ( 080 482 77 69; www.imasseria.com; d €300-490, ste €430-650; ) with sumptuous rooms and a superb spa.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Passing under the baroque Arco di Sant’Antonio at the western end of pedestrianised Piazza XX Settembre, you emerge into Piazza Roma, dominated by the imposing, elegant 17th-century Palazzo Ducale, built over an ancient castle and now used as municipal offices.
From Piazza Roma, follow the fine Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with baroque townhouses, to reach Piazza Plebiscito, the centre’s baroque heart. The piazza is overlooked by the 18th-century Basilica di San Martino, its centrepiece city patron, St Martin, swinging a sword and sharing his cloak with a beggar.
Walkers can ask for the Carta dei Sentieri del Bosco delle Pianelle (free) from the tourist office which maps out 10 walks, with varying distances and level of difficulty, in the nearby Bosco delle Pianelle (around 10km west of town). This lush woodland is part of the larger Riserva Naturale Regionale Orientata which covers 1206 hectares of lofty trees, including silver ash and elm, and flora and fauna that includes wild orchids and a rich and varied birdlife with kestrels, owls, buzzards, hoopoe and sparrow hawks.
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Festival della Valle d’Itria is an annual music festival (late July to early August) featuring international performances of opera, classical and jazz. For information, contact the Centro Artistico Musicale Paolo Grassi ( 080 480 51 00; www.festivaldellavalleditria.it; 10am-1pm Mon-Fri) in the Palazzo Ducale.
SLEEPING & EATING
B&B San Martino ( 080 48 56 01; http://xoomer.virgilio.it/bed-and-breakfast-sanmartino; Via Abate Fighera 32; 2-person apt €90-160, per week €300-700; ) A stylish B&B in an historic palace with rooms overlooking gracious Piazza XX Settembre. The apartments have exposed stone walls, shiny parquet floors, wrought-iron beds and small kitchenettes. Guests have the use of a pool some 3km away.
Villaggio In ( 080 480 50 21; www.villaggioin.it; Via Arco Grassi 8; apt per week for 2/3/4/5/6 people €335-420/380-550/450-895/615-710/680-820) These charming arched apartments are located in original centro storico homes with steep stairs and small rooms. Antiques and whitewashed walls complete the traditional look.
Ciacco ( 080 480 04 72; Via Conte Ugolino; meals €20; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) Dive into the historic centre to find Ciacco, a traditional restaurant with white-clad tables and a cosy fireplace, serving up Puglian cuisine in a modern key. It’s tucked down a narrow pedestrian lane a couple of streets in from the Chiesa del Carmine.
Due Gnelli ( 080 430 28 27; Piazza Plemiscito 9; pizzas from €4.50, meals €20; Thu-Tue) Step into this shiny black-and-white dining space to enjoy surprisingly traditional dishes, like orecchiette alle cime di rape (‘little ears’ pasta with turnip tops) and fritto misto (fried seafood). Tables outside overlook this lovely square.
Il Ritrovo degli Amici ( 080 483 92 49; Corso Messapia 8; meals €35; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun Mar-Jan) This excellent restaurant, with stone walls and vaulting, has a convivial atmosphere oiled by the region’s Spumante. Dishes are traditional with salamis and sausages the specialities.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Take the FSE ( 080 546 21 11) train from Bari (€4.90, two hours, hourly) or Taranto (€2.40, 40 minutes, seven daily).
FSE buses serve Alberobello (€1.50, 30 minutes, five daily Monday to Saturday) and Lecce (€6, two hours, seven daily).
Buses III and IV connect the FSE train station, down on the plain, with Piazza XX Settembre.
Ostuni
pop 32,800
Ostuni shines like a pearly white tiara, extending across three hills, with the magnificent gem of a cathedral as its sparkling centrepiece. It’s the end of the trulli region and the beginning of the hot, dry Penisola Salentina. Chic, with some excellent restaurants, stylish bars and swish yet intimate places to stay, it’s packed in summer.
ORIENTATION & INFORMATION
From Piazza della Libertà, where the new town meets the old, take Via Cattedrale to the cathedral. Turn right for a view across the olive groves to the Adriatic Sea, or turn left to get agreeably lost in whitewashed lanes.
Ostuni’s tourist office ( 0831 30 12 68; Corso Mazzini 8; 9am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-8.30pm Sat & Sun), off Piazza della Libertà, can organise guided visits of the town and bike rental.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
The Museo di Cività Preclassiche della Murgia ( 0831 33 63 83; Via Cattedrale 15; admission free; 9am-1pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Thu, 3.30-7pm Sun Apr-Oct, 3.30-7pm Tue & Thu Nov-Mar), in the Convento delle Monacelle, is most famous for the 25,000-year-old star of the show: Delia. She was pregnant at the time of her death and her well-preserved skeleton was found in a local cave. Many of the finds here come from the Palaeolithic burial ground, now the Parco Archeologico e Naturale di Arignano, which can be visited by appointment (ask at the museum). Close to the museum is Ostuni’s dramatic 15th-century cathedral with its superbly preserved rose window.
Ostuni is surrounded by olive groves so this is the place to buy some of the region’s DOC ‘Collina di Brindisi’ – either delicate, medium or strong – direct from producers such as Cooperativa Agricola Sololio ( 0831 33 29 52; www.ulivetibruno.it, in Italian; Corso Mazzini 7).
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Ostuni’s annual feast day, La Cavalcata, is held on 26 August, when processions of horsemen dressed in glittering red-and-white uniforms (resembling Indian grooms on their way to be wed) follow the statue of Sant’Oronzo around town.
SLEEPING
Le Sole Blu ( 0831 30 38 56; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 16; s €30-40, d €60-80) In the 18th-century (rather than medieval) part of town, there is just one room available here and it is delightful: large and homey with comfortable furniture, a separate entrance and a visiting fluffy white cat.
La Terra ( 0831 33 66 51; www.laterrahotel.it; Via Petrarolo; s €80-105, d €130-170 ) This former 13th-century palace offers atmospheric and stylish accommodation with original niches, dark-wood beams and furniture, and contrasting light stonework and whitewash. The result is a cool contemporary look. The bar is as cavernous as they come – it is tunnelled out of a cave.
Il Frantoio ( 0832 33 02 76; www.trecolline.it; SS16, Km874; per person €88-108; ) For a country-house stay, head to this charming, whitewashed farmhouse, where the owners still live and work, producing high-quality organic olive oil. (Or else book yourself in for one of the marathon 10-course Sunday lunches; the food is unbelievably good here.) Il Frantoio lies 5km outside Ostuni along the SS16 in the direction of Fasano. You’ll see the sign on your left-hand side when you reach the Km874 sign.
Borgo San Marco ( 080 439 57 57; www.borgosanmarco.it; s €105-135, d €160-180) Another working farm producing luscious olive oil, this restored 15th-century structure is a 14-room hotel, and is traditional with a bohemian edge. Nearby are some frescoed rock churches to explore. It’s 8km from Ostuni. To get here take the SS379 in the direction of Bari, exiting at the sign that says SC San Marco – Zona Industriale Sud Fasano, then follow the signs. Note that there’s a one-week minimum stay in August.
EATING
Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale ( 0831 33 50 26; Via Arcidiacono Trinchera 7; meals €25; 
) Just beyond the arch opposite Ostuni’s cathedral is this tiny little hostelry serving up magical food. The menu includes plenty of vegetarian options, like frittelle di verdure miste profumate alla menta su salsa de yogurt (vegetable fritter with a yoghurt and mint sauce). The service is attentive, and the atmosphere deeply contented.
Osteria del Tempo Perso ( 0831 30 33 20; Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale 47; meals €30; dinner daily, lunch Sun) A sophisticated rustic restaurant in a former bakery, this laid-back place serves great Pugliese food, specialising in roasted meats. To get here, face the cathedral’s south wall and turn right through two archways into Largo Giuseppe Spennati, then follow the signs to the restaurant.
Porta Nova ( 0831 33 89 83; Via G Petrarolo 38; meals €45; Thu-Tue) This restaurant has a wonderful location on the old city wall. Revel in the rolling views from the terrace or relax in the elegant interior while you feast on top-notch local cuisine, with fish and seafood the speciality. Try the prawns from Gallipoli.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
STP buses run to Brindisi (€2.90, 50 minutes, six daily), leaving from Piazza Italia in the newer part of Ostuni, and to Martina Franca (€2, 45 minutes, five daily).
Trains run frequently to Brindisi (€3, 30 minutes) and Bari (€4.90, two hours). A half-hourly local bus covers the 2.5km between the station and town.
Oria
pop 15,400
The multicoloured dome of Oria’s cathedral can be seen for miles around, surrounded by the narrow streets of this appealing medieval town. An intriguing, if ghoulish, sight is the cathedral’s Cripta delle Mummie (Crypt of the Mummies), where 11 mummified corpses of former monks are still preserved. Surmounting the town, the Frederick II castle ( 0831 84 00 09; 9.30am-12.30pm Mar-Oct, 3.30-6.30pm Mar—mid-Jun & mid-Sep-Oct, 5-8pm mid-Jun—mid-Sep, by appointment in winter), built in a triangle shape, has been carefully restored and has a pretty garden.
Stay at Borgo di Oria ( 329 2307506; www.borgodioria.it; ste €70-75; ), run by the helpful Francesco Pipino, recommended by readers and offering 10 characterful self-catering suites (with kitchenettes) in the historic centre.
Dating back to Frederick II’s reign, Il Torneo dei Rioni, in mid-August, is the annual battle between the town’s quarters. It takes the form of a spectacular medieval palio (horse race).
Oria is on the main Trenitalia line and there are frequent serves from both Brindisi and Taranto. You can also connect with Ostuni and change at Francavilla Fontana for Alberobello and Martina Franca.
Return to beginning of chapter
BRINDISI
pop 87,900
Like all ports, Brindisi has its seamy side, but it’s also surprisingly slow-paced and balmy, particularly the palm-lined Corso Garibaldi linking the port to the train station and the promenade stretching along the interesting seafront.
The town was the end of the ancient Roman road, Via Appia, down whose weary length trudged legionnaires and pilgrims, crusaders and traders all heading to Greece and the Near East. These days little has changed except Brindisi’s pilgrims are sun-seekers rather than soul-seekers.
Orientation
The new port is east of town, across the Seno di Levante at Costa Morena, in a bleak industrial wilderness.
The old port is about 1km from the train station along Corso Umberto I, which leads into Corso Garibaldi where there are numerous cafes, shops, ferry companies and travel agencies.
Information
Corso Umberto I and Corso Garibaldi bristle with currency-exchange offices and banks, and several cafes have the internet.
- Ferries (www.ferries.gr) Details of ferry fares and time-tables to Greek destinations.
- Hospital ( 0831 53 71 11; SS7 for Mesagne) Southwest of the centre.
- Police station ( 0831 54 31 11; Via Bastioni S Giacomo)
- Post office ( 0831 56 09 61; Piazza Vittoria)
- Tourist office ( 0831 52 30 72; Viale Regina Margherita 44; 9am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Fri year-round, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat Sep-Jun, 3.30-9pm Sat & 5-9pm Sun Jul & Aug) Has a wealth of information and brochures on the area. If you are interested in pedal power, pick up Le Vie Verdi map (www.ciclomici.it) with eight bicycling routes in the Brindisi area, ranging from 6km to 30km.
Sights & Activities
For centuries, two great Roman columns marked the imperial Via Appia terminus at Brindisi. One was presented to the town of Lecce back in 1666 as thanks to Sant’Oronzo for having relieved Brindisi of the plague. The other is in situ, a delicate, gleaming white column above a sweeping set of sun-whitened stairs. Legend has it that the Roman poet Virgil died in a house nearby after returning from Greece. A little further west along the promenade is a fountain, unmistakably the work of Il Duco (Mussolini).
In the small historic quarter, the sand-coloured cathedral (Piazza del Duomo; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri & Sun, 8am-noon Sat) was built in the 11th century but then substantially remodelled about 700 years later. You can see how it may have looked from the nearby Porta dei Cavalieri Templari, a fanciful portico with pointy arches – all that remains of the Knights Templar’s main church. Their other church, the Tempio di San Giovanni al Sepolcro (Via San Giovanni), is a square brown bulk of Norman stone conforming to the circular plan the Templars so loved.
Abutting the cathedral’s north side is the superb Museo Archeologico Provinciale Ribezzo ( 0831 56 55 08; Piazza del Duomo 8; admission free; 9.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sat, plus Sun, 3.30-6.30pm Tue, Thu & Sat, 10am-1pm & 5-8pm Sun) which was substantially expanded in 2009 and now covers several floors with well-documented exhibits (in English) including some 3000 bronze sculptures and fragments in Hellenistic Greek style, terracotta figurines from the 7th century, and Roman statues and heads (not always together).
Another main sight is the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Casale ( 8am-8pm), located 4km north, towards the airport. Built by Prince Philip of Taranto around 1300, the church mixes up Puglian Romanesque, Gothic and Byzantine styles, with a Byzantine banquet of interior frescoes. The immense Last Judgement on the entrance wall, full of blood and thunder, is the work of Rinaldo di Taranto.
Take one of the regular boats (return ticket bought on land/board €1.80/1.75) on Viale Regina Margherita across the harbour to the Monument to Italian Sailors, erected by Mussolini in 1933, for a wonderful view of Brindisi’s waterfront.
Sleeping
Hotel Altair ( 0831 56 22 89; Via Giudea 4; s €30, d €40-50) Hidden in a sidestreet off Corso Garibaldi, this modest hotel has seen better days; the rooms’ arched high ceilings suggest a more glamorous past. It’s ideal for early morning departures, though, as the port bus stop is a short walk away.
Hotel Orientale ( 0831 56 84 51; Corso Garibaldi 40; www.hotelorientale.it; s/d €98/130; ) This sleek, modern hotel overlooks the long palm-lined corso. The decor has benefited from a recent revamp and rooms have shiny parquet floors, contemporarily tiled bathrooms and Sky TV. A new fitness centre, private car park and (rare) cooked breakfast option are agreeable extras.
Grande Albergo Internazionale ( 0831 52 34 73; www.albergointernazionale.it; Viale Regina Margherita 23; s/d €160/250; ) This 19th-century palace was built for English merchants en route to Bombay and the Raj. It has great harbour views, large rooms with grandly draped curtains, and is the kind of place you could imagine maiden aunts coming on holiday for the sea air.
Eating
Il Giardino ( 0831 22 40 26; Via Tarantini 14-18; meals €30; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) Established more than 40 years ago in a restored 15th-century palazzo, sophisticated Il Giardino serves refined seafood and meat dishes in a delightful garden setting.
Trattoria Pantagruele ( 0831 56 06 05; Via Salita di Ripalta 1; meals €40; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat) Named after French writer François Rabelais’ satirical character, this charming trattoria three blocks from the waterfront serves up excellent fish and grilled meats, as well as scrumptious home-made desserts.
Marc’Aurelio ( 0831 52 17 73; Via Ferrante Fornari 26; meals €55; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) In a beautiful, historic building, this classy restaurant and oyster bar is the place for simple, exquisitely cooked seafood. Finish with the local speciality spumone (a hazelnut ice-cream confection). There’s a garden terrace.
Casa del Parmigiano (Piazza Vittoria 11) A wonderful shop for cheese lovers, selling great wheels of parmiggiano and local and national cheeses.
Getting There & Away
AIR
From Papola Casale (BDS; www.seap-puglia.it), Brindisi’s small airport, there are internal flights to Rome, Naples and Milan. The airport is served mainly by Alitalia, AirOne and Myair. There are also direct flights from London Stansted with Ryanair. Flights are scarce in winter.
Major and local car-rental firms are represented at the airport and there are regular SITA buses to Lecce (€5.30, 50 minutes, eight daily) and STP buses to central Brindisi (€3.30, 40 minutes, nine daily).
BOAT
Ferries, all of which take vehicles, leave Brindisi for Greek destinations including Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patras, from where there’s a bus to Athens. Boats also serve Albania (daily) and Turkey and the Ionian islands (seasonally).
Most ferry companies operate from June to August. All have offices at Costa Morena (the newer port), and the major ones also have offices in town. There’s a tax of €10 per person and car. Check in at least two hours before departure or you risk losing your reservation.
- Hellenic Mediterranean Lines ( 0831 52 85 31; www.hml.it; Corso Garibaldi 8) To Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patras (April to October), to Cefalonia (June to September) and the Ionian islands (July and August).
- Marmara Lines ( 0831 56 86 33; www.marmaralines.com; Corso Garibaldi 19) Twice weekly ferry to Cesme (Turkey). Departs Saturday and Wednesday at 10.30am and 11.30am respectively.
- Skenderbeg Lines ( 0831 52 54 48; www.skenderbeglines.com; Corso Garibaldi 88) Ferries most days to Vlore (Valona; in Albania).
- SNAV ( 0831 52 54 92; www.snav.it) Ferries to Corfu and on to Paxos.
BUS
Buses operated by STP ( 0831 54 92 45) go to Ostuni (€2.90, 50 minutes, six daily) and Lecce (€3.30, 45 minutes, two daily), as well as towns throughout the Penisola Salentina. Most leave from Via Bastioni Carlo V, in front of the train station. Ferrovie del Sud-Est (FSE; 800 07 90 90) buses serving local towns also leave from here.
Marozzi ( 0831 52 16 84) runs to Rome’s Stazione Tiburtina (€36 to €40, 8½ hours, four daily). Appia Travel ( 0831 52 16 84; Viale Regina Margherita 8-9) sells tickets.
TRAIN
Brindisi is on the main Trenitalia train line and trains run regularly to Bari (from €6.80, 1¼ hours), Lecce (from €8.10, 30 minutes) and Taranto (from €5.10, 1¼ hours). Other destinations include Milan (€65 to €86, 9½ hours) and Rome (€47 to €67, six hours).
Getting Around
A free minibus connects the train station and old ferry terminal with Costa Morena. It departs two hours before boat departures. You’ll need a valid ferry ticket.
To reach the airport take the Cotrap bus from Via Bastoni Carlo V (€5, 15 minutes).
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LECCE
pop 91,600
Central, historic Lecce is a beautiful baroque town; a glorious architectural confection of palaces and churches intricately sculpted from the soft local sandstone. It is a city full of surprises: one minute you are perusing sleek designer fashions from Milan, the next you are faced with a church, dizzyingly decorated with asparagus column tops, decorative dodos and cavorting gremlins. Swooning 18th-century traveller Thomas Ashe thought it ‘the most beautiful city in Italy’, but the less-impressed Marchese Grimaldi said the facade of Santa Croce made him think a lunatic was having a nightmare.
Either way, it’s a lively, graceful university town, packed with upmarket boutiques, antique shops and furniture restorers. There are also some excellent restaurants here, and the city is convenient for both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas: it’s a great base for exploring the Penisola Salentina.
Orientation
The train station is 1km southwest of Lecce’s historic centre. The centre’s twin main squares are Piazza Sant’Oronzo and Piazza del Duomo, linked by pedestrianised Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
Information
You’ll find banks on and around Piazza Sant’Oronzo.
- Clio.com (Via Fazzi 11; per hr €4; 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Central internet cafe.
- CTS ( 0832 30 18 62; Via Palmieri 89) Travel agency for youth bargain fares.
- Hospital ( 0832 66 11 11; Via San Cesario) About 2km south of the centre on the Gallipoli road.
- Liberrima ( 0832 24 26 26; Corte del Cicala 1; 10am-midnight Tue-Sat, 4.30pm-midnight Sun & Mon) Stylish bookshop with guides and music.
- Police station ( 0832 69 11 11; Viale Otranto 1)
- Post office (Piazza Libertini)
- Salento Time ( 0832 30 36 86; www.salentotime.it; Via Revina Isabella 22; 9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat) Independent tourist office which can provide help with accommodation, as well as bike rental (per day €10) and internet access (per hr €3).
- Tourist office ( 0832 24 80 92; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 24; 9am-1pm & 4.30-9pm Mon-Sat)
Sights
Lecce has more than 40 churches and at least as many palazzi, all built or renovated between the 17th and 18th centuries, giving the city an extraordinary cohesion. Two of the main proponents of barocco leccese (Lecce baroque – the craziest, most lavish decoration imaginable) were brothers Antonio and Giuseppe Zimbalo, who both had a hand in the fantastical Basilica di Santa Croce.
BASILICA DI SANTA CROCE
It seems that hallucinating stonemasons have been at work on the Basilica di Santa Croce ( 0832 24 19 57; Via Umberto I; 9am-12.30pm & 5-9pm). Sheep, dodos, cherubs and beasties writhe across the facade, a swirling magnificent allegorical feast. Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries a team of artists – under Giuseppe Zimbalo – laboured to work the building up to this pitch.
The interior is more conventionally Renaissance and deserves a look, once you’ve finished swooning outside. Zimbalo also left his mark in the former Convento dei Celestini, just north of the basilica, which is now the Palazzo del Governo, the local government headquarters.
PIAZZA DEL DUOMO
Piazza del Duomo is a baroque feast, the city’s focal point and a sudden open space amid the surrounding enclosed lanes. During times of invasion the inhabitants of Lecce would barricade themselves in the square, with its conveniently narrow entrances. The 12th-century cathedral ( 6.30am-noon & 4-6.30pm) is one of Giuseppe Zimbalo’s finest works – he was also responsible for the towering, 68m-high bell tower. The cathedral is unusual in that it has two facades, one on the western end and the other, more ornate, facing the piazza. It’s framed by the 15th-century Palazzo Vescovile (Episcopal Palace) and the 18th-century Seminario ( exhibitions only), designed by Giuseppe Cino.
ROMAN REMAINS
Below the ground level of Piazza Sant’Oronzo is the restored 2nd-century-AD Roman amphitheatre (admission €2; 10am-noon & 4-6pm), discovered in 1901 by construction workers. It was excavated in the 1930s to reveal a perfect horseshoe with seating for 15,000. Nearby rises the Colonna di Sant’Oronzo, a statue of Lecce’s patron saint, perched precariously on the second pillar from Via Appia – the Roman road that stretched from Rome to Brindisi.
The small Roman theatre near here was also uncovered in the 1930s – a neat little arc hemmed between buildings. It contains the Museo Teatro Romano ( 0832 27 91 96; Via Ammirati; admission €2.60; 9.30am-1pm Mon-Sat), with well-preserved russet-coloured Roman mosaics and frescoes.
CHURCHES
On Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the interior of 17th-century Chiesa di Sant’Irene contains a magnificent pair of mirror-image baroque altarpieces, facing each other across the transept. Opening hours are sporadic due to ongoing reformation. Other notable baroque churches include Chiesa di Santa Chiara (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele; 9.30-11.30am daily, 4.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat), with every niche a swirl of twisting columns and ornate statuary; 200m to its south, the Chiesa di San Matteo (Via dei Perroni 29; 9am-12.30pm Tue-Sun, 4-7.30pm daily); and the last work of Giuseppe Zimbalo, Chiesa del Rosario (Via Libertini). Instead of the intended dome roof, it ended up with a quick-fix wooden one following Zimbalo’s death before the building was completed. The Chiesa dei SS Nicolò e Cataldo (Via San Nicola; 9am-noon, Sep-Apr, 5-7pm Jun-Aug), near Porta Napoli, was built by the Normans in 1180. It got caught up in the city’s baroque frenzy and was revamped in 1716 by the prolific Cino, who retained the Romanesque rose window and portal.
OTHER SIGHTS
The Museo Provinciale ( 0832 68 35 03; Via Gallipoli 28; admission free; 9am-1.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun) stylishly covers 10,000 years of history, from Palaeolithic and Neolithic bits and bobs to a handsome display of Greek and Roman jewels, weaponry and ornaments. The stars of the show are the Messapians, who were making jaunty jugs and bowls centuries before the Greeks arrived to give them any pottery lessons. There are also some excellent temporary exhibitions.
Lecce’s 16th-century Castello di Carlo V (admission free; 9am-1pm & 4-8.30pm) was built around a 12th-century Norman tower to the orders of Charles V. It consists of two concentric trapezoidal structures. It’s been used as a prison, a court, and military headquarters; now you can wander around the baronial spaces and visit the occasional art exhibition.
Activities
The countryside surrounding Lecce is perfect for cycling. Ciclovagando ( 339 5967280; www.ciclovagando.com; Via di Savoia 19, Mesagne; €120) organise guided full-day tours, including bike rental and helmets, with a choice of three to four itineraries. Each tour covers approximately 20km and they depart daily from Lecce (as well as Matera, Trani and Castellana Grotte).
Courses
Apulia Centre for Italian Language & Culture ( 0832 39 03 12; www.apuliadomus.com; Via Adriatica 10-12) An established school offering group or individual tuition in Italian for foreigners, this has good facilities and runs lots of activities.
Awaiting Table (www.awaitingtable.com; day/weeklong course €350/2145) Silvestro Silvestori’s splendid cooking and wine school provides day or weeklong courses with tours, tastings and noteworthy lecturers.
Sleeping
Lecce’s burgeoning B&B scene offers the best-value accommodation.
Casa Elisabetta ( 0832 30 70 52; www.beb-lecce.com; Via Vignes 15; s/d €30/55) An elegant mansion that’s centred on a graceful courtyard close to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, this has nice, stately rooms, and is efficient and well run.
Azzurretta B&B ( 0832 24 22 11; www.bblecce.it; s €30-38, d €55-70) The friendly brother of Centro Storico (below) runs this shabbier version located within the same building. The parking (for both) is a major plus.
Centro Storico B&B ( 0832 24 27 27; www.bedandbreakfast.lecce.it; Via Vignes 2b; s €35-40, d €52-100; ) The rooms and suites in this charming 16th-century hideaway are stylish and colourful; think dark-pink walls in the suite. There is a rooftop terrace with sunloungers and views.
B&B Centro Storico Prestige ( 0832 24 33 53; www.bbprestige-lecce.it; Via Santa Maria del Paradiso 4; s €60-70, d €70-90; ) In the historic centre with tonnes of character. Rooms are light, airy and beautifully finished, with traditional furnishings and small balconies. There’s also a pretty, communal suntrap terrace with views over San Giovanni Battista church.
Suite 68 ( 0832 30 35 06; www.kalekora.it; Via Prato; r €80-120; ) This place has a North African feel with light streaming in the large bright rooms, painted in desert hues and decorated with vividly coloured rugs. Room 1 has a luxurious, sea-blue mosaic-tiled tub. Bikes available.
Palazzo Rollo ( 0832 30 71 52; www.palazzorollo.it; Via Vittorio Emanuele 14; d €90-120, 4-person studio €100; ) Stay in a 17th-century palace – the family seat for over 200 years. The three grand B&B suites (with kitchenettes) have high curved ceilings and chandeliers. Downstairs, contemporary-chic studios open onto an ivy-hung courtyard. The rooftop garden has wonderful views.
Patria Palace Hotel ( 0832 24 51 11; www.patriapalacelecce.com; Piazzetta Riccardi 13; s €106-210, d €165-350; ) This sumptuous hotel has comfortable carpeted rooms with large mirrors, dark-wood furniture and wistful murals. The location is wonderful, the bar gloriously art deco with a magnificent carved ceiling, and the shady roof terrace has views over the Basilica di Santa Croce.
Eating
RESTAURANTS
Trattoria di Nonna Tetti ( 0832 24 60 36; Piazzetta Regina Maria 28; meals €15-20; lunch Tue-Sun dinner daily) A warmly inviting restaurant that is popular with all ages and budgets and serves a wide choice of traditional dishes. Try the most emblematic Pugliese dish here – braised wild chicory with a puree of boiled dried fava beans, along with very more-ish contorni (side dishes) like patate casarecce (home-made thinly sliced fries).
Alle due Corti ( 0832 24 22 23; www.alleduecorti.com; Corte dei Giugni 1; meals €15-20) For a taste of sunny Salentina, check out this no-frills, fiercely traditional restaurant. The seasonal menu is classic Pugliese, written in a dialect that even some Italians struggle with. Go for the real deal with a dish of tajeddha (layered potatoes, rice and mussels) or ciceri e tria (crisply fried pasta with chickpeas).
Mamma Lupa ( 340 7832765; Via Acaja 12; meals €15-20; Tue-Sun) Looking and tasting suitably rustic, this osteria serves proper peasant food – such as roast tomatoes, potatoes and artichokes, or horse meatballs – in snug surroundings with just a few tables surrounded by dark ochre walls.
Blu Notte ( 0832 30 42 86; Via Brancaccio 3; meals €30) Highly recommended by locals, this place is famed for its spectacular antipasti and wonderful seafood. It’s a relaxed, pretty place, just by Porta San Biaggio at the edge of the bar district, with outside tables.
Picton ( 0832 33 23 83; Via Idomeneo 14; meals €35; Tue-Sun) This backstreet restaurant has an elegant dress-for-dinner feel. It is housed in an old palazzo with a cool barrel-vaulted interior and a refreshing internal garden, and the cuisine is traditional with a twist, including dishes such as saltimbocca (veal dish with sage and prosciutto meaning ‘leap in the mouth’).
Cucina Casareccia ( 0832 24 51 78; Viale Costadura 19; meals €40; lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat) Ring the bell to gain entry here. This place feels more like a private home, with its patterned cement floor tiles, desk piled high with papers, and charming owner Carmela Perrone. She’ll whisk you through a dazzling array of Salentine dishes from the true cucina povera (cooking of the poor), including horsemeat done here in a salsa piccante (spicy sauce). Booking is a must.
Pick up your own ingredients at Lecce’s fresh-produce market (Piazza Libertini; mornings Mon-Sat).
CAFéS & GELATARIE
Caffè Paisiello ( 0832 30 14 04; Via Palmieri 72; 7am-midnight) Popular with shoppers, this high-ceilinged cafe has excellent light snacks and a charming old-fashioned feel. There are some outside tables.
Il Caffè di Liberrima ( 0832 24 26 26; Corte dei Cicala; 8am-1am) Tables fill the little square next to the bookshop and enoteca (wine bar) on the central pedestrianised strip – an ideal place to watch the world amble past. Service is slow enough for the bookshop to come in handy.
Gelateria Natale ( 0832 25 60 60; Via Trinchese 7a; 8am-1am) Lecce’s best ice cream – you might have to queue but this will give you time to choose. It’s also a fabulous confectioner, gleaming with jewel-like treats, truffles, panna cotta and dark chocolate cakes that pool like oil slicks on golden plates.
Drinking
Via Imperature Augusto is full of bars, and on a summer’s night feels like one long party. Wander along to find somewhere to settle. Otherwise, Il Caffè di Liberrima (above) is good for a drink.
Shopping
Lecce’s streets are lined with pretty boutiques, well-stocked bookshops, cake shops and inviting delicatessens.
La Cartapesta ( 0832 24 34 10; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 27) Lecce is famous for its papier-mâché figures. You can buy handcrafted figurines (including a commemorative model of Pope John Paul II) in this, Claudio Riso’s workshop.
La Bottega del Corso ( 0832 24 98 66; Via Libertini 52; 8.30am-1.15pm daily, plus 4.30-8.30pm Thu-Tue) A well-stocked deli full of typical produce and freshly baked breads.
Olio Claudio ( 0832 82 29 04; www.olioclaudio.com; Via Principi di Savoia 43) This small oil-packed shop is where to head for some classy olive oil. A litre starts from €4.
Getting There & Away
BUS
STP ( 0832 35 91 42) runs buses to Brindisi (€3.30, 45 minutes, two daily) and throughout Puglia from the STP bus station.
FSE ( 0832 66 81 11) runs buses to Gallipoli (€3.50, one hour, four daily), Otranto (€2.90, one hour, two daily) and Brindisi (€3.30, 45 minutes, two daily), leaving from Via Torre del Parco.
TRAIN
There are frequent trains to Bari (from €13.80, 1½ to two hours), to Brindisi (from €8.10, 30 minutes), to Rome (from €62, 5½ to nine hours) and Bologna (from €66, 8½ to 9½ hours). For Naples (from €44, 5½ hours), change in Caserta.
FSE trains head to Otranto and Martina Franca.
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PENISOLA SALENTINA
The Penisola Salentina (Salentine Peninsula) is hot, dry and remote, retaining a flavour of its Greek past. Here the lush greenery of Valle d’Itria gives way to ochre-coloured fields, hazy with wild flowers in spring, and endless olive groves. The sun-bleached towns are shuttered and hushed, only coming alive in the summer months.
Galatina
pop 27,700
With a charming historic centre, Galatina – 18km south of Lecce – is at the core of the Salentine Peninsula’s Greek past. It is almost the only place where the ritual tarantismi (a frenzied dance meant to rid the body of tarantula-bite poison) is still practised. The tarantella folk dance evolved from it, and each year on the feast day of St Peter and St Paul (29 June), the ritual is performed at the (now deconsecrated) church.
However most people come to Galatina see the incredible 14th-century Basilica di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria ( 8am-12.30pm & 4.30-6.45pm Apr-Sep, 8am-12.30pm & 3.45-5.45pm Oct-Mar), its interior a kaleidoscope of fresco. It was built by the Franciscans, whose patroness was Frenchwoman Marie d’Enghien de Brienne. Married to Raimondello Orsini del Balzo, the Salentine’s wealthiest noble, she had plenty of cash to splash on interior decoration. The gruesome story goes that Raimondello (who is buried here) climbed Mount Sinai to visit relics of Santa Caterina (St Catherine). Kissing the dead saint’s hand, he bit off a finger and brought it back as a holy relic.
The church is absolutely beautiful, with a pure-white altarpiece set against the frenzy of frescoes. Bring a torch. It is not clear who the artists Marie employed really were; they could have been itinerant painters down from Le Marche and Emilia, or southerners who’d absorbed the latest Renaissance innovations on trips north.
Soothe the soul further with a stay at nearby Le Campine Eco-Resort ( 0836 80 21 08; www.lecampineresort.com; Via Stazione 116; ) located around 7km east of here in tiny Zollino. As well as ayurvedic treatments, there are yoga courses with meals prepared according to macrobiotic and Slow Food precepts. Check the website for upcoming retreats and courses.
FSE runs regular trains between Galatina and Lecce (€1.30, 30 minutes, hourly).
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OTRANTO
pop 5500
Otranto overlooks a pretty harbour with brightly painted boats atop shimmering clear blue waters. In the historic centre, looming golden walls guard narrow car-free lanes, protecting countless pretty little shops selling touristic odds and ends. In July and August it’s one of Puglia’s most vibrant towns. Much is closed in the low season.
Otranto was Italy’s main port to the Orient for 1000 years, and suffered a brutal history. There are fanciful tales that King Minos was here and St Peter is supposed to have celebrated the first Western Mass here.
A more definite historical event is the Sack of Otranto in 1480, when 18,000 Turks besieged the town and killed 800 faithful Christians who refused to convert.
Today the only fright you’ll get is the summer crush on Otranto’s scenic beaches and in its narrow streets.
The tourist office ( 0836 80 14 36; Piazza Castello; 9am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep, 9am-1pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) faces the castle.
Sights & Activities
Don’t leave Otranto without visiting the extraordinary Romanesque cathedral (Piazza Basilica; 8am-noon daily, 3-6pm Apr-Sep, 3-5pm Oct-Mar), built by the Normans in the 11th century, though given a few facelifts since. A vast 12th-century mosaic covers its floor, a stupendous tree of life balanced on the back of two elephants. It was created by a young monk called Pantaleone (who had obviously never seen an elephant), whose vision of Heaven and Hell encompassed an amazing (con)fusion of the classics, religion and plain old superstition, including Adam and Eve, Diana the huntress, Hercules, King Arthur, Alexander the Great, and a menagerie of monkeys, snakes and sea monsters. Don’t forget to look up; the cathedral also boasts a beautiful wooden coffered ceiling.
It’s amazing that the cathedral survived at all, as the Turks stabled their horses here when they beheaded the martyrs of Otranto on a stone preserved in the altar of the chapel (to the right of the main altar). This Cappella Mortiri (Chapel of the Dead) is a ghoulishly fascinating sight, with the skulls and bones of the martyrs arranged in neat patterns in glass cases.
Within the tiny Chiesa di San Pietro ( 10am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-noon & 3-6pm Oct-Mar) are more vivid Byzantine frescoes. It is signposted off the corso. If it’s closed, ask for the key at the cathedral.
The well-restored and central Aragonese castle (Piazza Castello; adult/child €2/free; 10.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Sep-May, 10am-1pm & 4-11pm Jun, 10am-1pm & 4pm-midnight Jul & Aug), is a squat thick-walled fort, with the Charles V coat of arms above the entrance. There are some faded original murals and original canon balls on display, plus good views from the ramparts.
There are some great beaches north of Otranto. Head out of town on the coastal road for 7.1km until you reach the Lido dei Pini exit. Follow the signs for Spiaggia Azzurra; a beautiful beach with velvet-soft sand. You can rent sunbeds (per day €4) just west of here at Lido Sirena. There are a handful of bars and restaurants along this strip of coast.
The clear waters and rocky coast around here are good for diving, and Scuba Diving Otranto ( 0836 80 27 40; www.scubadiving.it; Via Francesco di Paola 43) offers day or night dives as well as introductory courses and diving courses.
Brush-up your Italian at Otranto nel Mondo ( 0836 80 20 03; www.otrantonelmondo.com) over the summer. The courses involve lots of extracurricular high jinks such as horse riding, sailing and wine tasting.
Sleeping
Otranto (and down the coast as far as Santa Maria di Leuca) is a good area for self-catering accommodation (Click here for suggested websites).
Balconcino d’Oriente ( 0836 80 15 29; www.balconcinodoriente.com; Via San Francesco da Paola 71; s €25-55, d €50-100; ) A friendly B&B in a great location and offering a more imaginative breakfast than most. There is an African-cum—Middle-Eastern theme throughout with colourful bed linens, African prints, Moroccan lamps and orange colour washes on the walls.
Palazzo de Mori ( 0836 80 10 88; www.palazzodemori.it; Bastione dei Pelasgi; s €85-100, d €100-150; Jan-Oct; ) This charming boutique hotel is located in Otranto’s historic centre. Enjoy a breakfast of fruits and yoghurt on the sun terrace overlooking the port and in the afternoon retire for a siesta in one of the soothing white-on-white rooms.
Palazzo Papaleo ( 0836 80 21 08; www.hotelpalazzopapaleo.com; Via Rondachi 1; s €140-250, d €150-280; ) Located next to the cathedral, this sumptuous hotel was the first to earn the EU Eco-label in Puglia. (For more information about the criteria, check the www.eco-label.com website). Aside from its ecological convictions, the hotel has magnificent rooms with original frescoes, exquisitely carved antique furniture and walls washed in soft greys, ochres and yellows. Soak in the panoramic views while enjoying the rooftop jacuzzi.
Eating & Drinking
La Botte ( 0836 80 42 93; Via del Porto; pizzas from €4) Has a large wooden terrace and reliably good pizzas. It is located just outside the touristy pedestrian loop on the road leading from the port.
Laltro Baffo ( 0836 60 16 36; Cenobllo Basiliano 23; meals €25) A new kid on the block with a more fashionable look than some of the old timers. Readers have recommended the excellent seafood; go for the daily fish option prepared with pasta.
Da Sergio ( 0836 80 14 08; Corso Garibaldi 9; meals €36) Smart, chic and favoured by locals, this is Otranto’s most famous fish restaurant, situated in an ace position for people-watching, smack bang in the centre of the touristy corso. There is no menu, instead you will be provided a choice of the day’s catch which is then charged by weight.
You can drink at bars along the city wall, overlooking the sea. A popular bar serving aperitivi and snacks is Il Covo dei Mori ( 0836 80 20 33; Via Leon Dari).
Shopping
Anima Mundi ( 0836 195 52 62; Vicolo Majorano 8) sells stunning photography (and other) books about the region, as well as local music. Massimiliano Morabito is a good bet if you are looking for traditional tarantella folk music – check him out on YouTube.
Getting There & Away
Otranto can be reached from Lecce by FSE train (€2.90, one hour), or by bus (€4, 80 minutes).
Marozzi ( 0836 80 15 78) has a daily bus service to Rome (€46, 10½ hours).
For travel information and reservations, head to Ellade Viaggi ( 0836 80 15 78; www.elladeviaggi.it, in Italian; Via del Porto) at the port.
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AROUND OTRANTO
The road south from Otranto takes you along a wild coastline. The land here is rocky and dramatic, with cliffs falling down into the sparkling sea. When the wind is up you can see why it is largely treeless. Many of the towns here started life as Greek settlements, although there are few monuments to be seen. When you reach the resort town of Santa Maria di Leuca, you’ve reached the tip of Italy’s stiletto and the dividing line between the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. The Ionian side of the Penisola Salentina has some good beaches. There are few cheap hotels in the area but this is a good place to seek out self-catering villas, and camp sites abound along the coast – try Camping Maggiano ( 0832 34 06 86; www.campingportomiggiano.it; camping 2 people, car & tent €23; Jun-Sep), 16km south of Otranto. It’s on the clifftop and is olive-tree shaded, with steps down to the beach.
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GALLIPOLI
pop 20,900
Gallipoli (from ‘beautiful town’ in Greek) is an almost-island. The old medieval centre fills an island in the Ionian Sea, connected by a bridge to the mainland and modern city. An important fishing centre, it’s 39km southwest of Lecce and has a history of strong-willed independence, being the last Salentine settlement to succumb to the Normans in the 11th century. It’s a very genuine place with a gritty individuality and still feels like a working Italian town, unlike more seasonal coastal places. In the summer, bars and restaurants make the most of the island’s ramparts, looking out to sea.
Information
The tourist office ( 0833 26 25 29; Via Antonietta de Pace 86; 10am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat) is located near the cathedral in the old town.
Sights
The medieval town’s entrance is guarded by an Angevin castle. Just opposite, below the ramp leading to the island, is a lively fish market.
In the centre, on the highest point of the island, is the 17th-century baroque Cattedrale di Sant’Agata (Via Antonietta de Pace; hours vary), lined with paintings by local artists. Zimbalo, who imprinted Lecce with his crazy baroque styles Click here, also worked on the facade. Nearby, and across from the tourist office, look out for Farmacia Provenzana (Via Antonietta de Pace; 8.30am-1pm & 4.30-8.30pm), a beautifully decorated pharmacy dating from 1814. Further west is the small Museo Civico ( 0833 26 42 24; Via Antonietta de Pace 108; adult/child €1/free; 10am-1pm & 6-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat), founded in 1878; a 19th-century time capsule featuring fish heads, ancient sculptures, a 3rd-century-BC sarcophagus and other weird stuff.
Back over the bridge and in the modern part of town is the Fontana Antica. Reconstructed in the 16th century from a Greek original, this fountain’s much-weathered sculptured figures tell a steamy tale of incest and bestiality.
Sleeping & Eating
La Casa del Mare ( 328 179136; www.lacasadelmare.com; Piazza de Amicis 14; d €60-110; ) This butter-coloured 16th-century building on a little square in the town centre overlooking a statue of a cheery Padre Pio is a good choice, with plain but bright white-walled rooms. Pre-book or turn up between 3pm and 6pm when owners Laura and Federico are there.
Insula ( 0833 20 14 13; Via de Pace 56; www.bbinsulagallipoli.it; d €70-130; ) A magnificent 15th-century building houses this memorable B&B. The rooms are all different but share the same princely atmosphere with exquisite antiques, vaulted high ceilings and cool pastel paintwork. The tranquil terrace, flanked by ancient walls with original stone work, has a tangible historic feel.
Masseria Don Cirillo ( 0832 30 35 06; www.masseriadoncirillo.it; Torre San Giovanni, Ugento; r €150-230; Apr-Oct; ) Around 15km from Gallipoli, this is a fabulous special-occasion masseria. Its furnishings are a chic mix of modern and rustic and its rooms, arched in pale stone, are surrounded by greenery. Traditional gozzo (wooden boat) and bikes are available.
Relais Corte Palmieri ( 0833 26 25 63; www.relaiscortepalmieri.it; Corte Palmieri 3; s €90-170, d €120-200; ) A cream-coloured, well-kept hotel. It’s run by the same management as Palazzo del Corso (just outside the old town) and the equally good Palazzo Mosco Inn B&B (see the website for info) and has elegant rooms accentuated by traditional painted furniture, wrought-iron bedheads and crisp red-and-white linen.
Il Giardino Segreto ( 0833 26 44 30; Via de Pace 116; meals €15) ‘The Secret Garden’ is just that, with a secluded courtyard out back and tables set around a lemon tree centrepiece. Dishes should suit the fussiest of diners with salads, bruschetta, pasta, meat and fish dishes and a reasonable €15 daily menu.
La Puritate ( 0833 26 42 05; Via S Elia 18; meals €45; Thu-Tue) A great place for fish in the old town with picture windows and sea views. Follow the excellent antipasti with delicious primi (first courses) such as seafood spaghetti, then see what’s been caught that day – the swordfish is usually a good bet.
Getting There & Away
FSE buses and trains head to Lecce (€3.50, one hour, four daily).
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TARANTO
pop 199,000
Men in wellies selling fish on corners, a collapsing historic medieval centre and an industrial horror show – Taranto’s distinctive characteristics protect an edgy, but characterful heart and possibly the best seafood in southern Italy.
According to legend, the city was founded by Taras, son of Poseidon who arrived on the back of a dolphin (as you do). Less romantically, the city was actually founded in the 7th century BC by exiles from Sparta – although the name Taras stuck – to become one of the wealthiest and most important colonies of Magna Graecia, with a peak population of 300,000. The fun finished, however, in the 3rd century BC when the Romans marched in, changed its name to Tarentum and set off a two-millennia decline in fortunes.
Taranto, along with La Spezia, is Italy’s major naval base, and the presence of young sailors is emblematic of a city that has always looked to the sea.
Orientation & Information
Taranto neatly splits into three. The old town is on a tiny island, lodged between the northwest port and train station and the new city to the southeast. Italy’s largest steel plant occupies the city’s entire western half. The grid-patterned new city contains the banks, most hotels and restaurants, and the tourist office ( 099 453 23 97; Corso Umberto I 113; 9am-1pm & 4.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat).
Sights
CITTà VECCHIA
Although Taranto’s medieval town centre is rundown, it is gradually being tastefully renovated and has a gritty and vibrant atmosphere. It is perched on the small island dividing the Mar Piccolo (Small Sea; an enclosed lagoon) and the Mar Grande (Big Sea). This peculiar geography means that blue sea and sky surround you wherever you go. Guarding the swing bridge that joins the old and new parts of town, the 15th-century Castello Aragonese ( 099 775 34 38; by appointment 9am-noon Mon-Fri) is an impressive structure, currently occupied by the Italian navy. Opposite, you will see the remaining columns of Taranto’s ancient Temple of Poseidon (Piazza Castello).
Buried in the old town is the 11th-century cathedral (Via del Duomo), one of Puglia’s oldest Romanesque buildings and an extravagant treat. It’s dedicated to San Cataldo; the Capella di San Cataldo is a baroque riot of frescoes and polychrome marble inlay.
Awash with the smell of the sea, Taranto’s real essence lies in the fish markets on Via Cariati.
NEW TOWN
Taranto’s urbane new town is a pleasant surprise, with sleek shopping streets shooting off from the impressive palm-planted Piazza Garibaldi, which is dominated by the gigantic rust-red 1920s Palazzo del Governo.
The superb Museo Nazionale Archeologico ( 099 453 21 12; www.museotaranto.it, in Italian; Via Cavour 10; adult/child €5/free; 8.30am-7.30pm) is one of Italy’s most important archaeological museums, and houses, among other ancient artefacts, the largest collection of Greek terracotta figures in the world. Also exhibited in this brand-new museum space are fine collections of 1st-century-BC glassware, classic black-and-red Attic vases and stunning jewellery such as a 4th-century-BC bronze and terracotta crown.
Activities
The closest beach is the thoroughly acceptable Lido Bruno just southeast of the city. They improve the further you get from the city. The stretch between Torre Ovo and Torretta is lovely, with beaches backed by low dunes and plenty of off-road parking.
Festivals & Events
Taranto is famous for its Le Feste di Pasqua (Holy Week) celebrations – the biggest in the region – when bearers in Ku Klux Klan—style robes carry icons around the town. There are three processions: the Perdoni, celebrating pilgrims; the Addolorata (which lasts 12 hours but covers only 4km); and the Misteri (even slower at 14 hours to cover 2km).
Sleeping
Ostello della Gioventù ( 099 476 00 33; www.ostellolalocanda.it; Vico Civitanova; dm €20, s/d €30/50; ) Spartan clean and sufficiently comfortable rooms in a great location, just off Piazza Fontana. Meals available (€12).
Hotel Pisani ( 099 453 40 87; Via Cavour 43; s/d €30/50) Tucked off the main square in the new town (Garibaldi), the dated rooms and slimline bathrooms are fairly forgettable. However they are freshly mopped and sufficiently comfortable providing you have no allusions to grandeur.
Europa Hotel ( 099 452 59 94; www.hoteleuropaonline.it; Via Roma 2; s/d €80/105; ) On the seafront next to the swing bridge, this shipshape, if bland, option overlooks the old town. A hotel since 1888, it has an elegant 19th-century facade concealing modern, business-oriented rooms.
Hotel Akropolis ( 099 470 41 10; www.hotelakropolis.it; Vico I Seminario 3; s €105-125, d €145-175; ) A converted medieval palazzo in the crumbling old town, this luxurious hotel sits grandly beside the cathedral. There are 13 stylish cream-and-white rooms, original majolica-tiled floors, and tremendous views from the rooftop terrace.
Eating & Drinking
Taranto’s restaurants are hidden like pearls amid its decrepit streets. It has been famous for its seafood – especially shellfish –since antiquity.
Caffè Italiano ( 099 452 17 81; Via D’Aquino 86a; salads & snacks €4; 5am-2am) Swish as you might wish, this is a Taranto hot spot, a classy cafe with excellent foccacie, coffee and ice cream, and outside seating on the pedestrianised street.
Balzi Blu ( 347 4653211; Corso Due Mari 22; pizza from €4.50, meals €15; Tue-Sun) A local favourite on the corso, serving some 300 different wines, plus excellent pizza with an exceptional crust made from 13 different types of flour. There are great views of the old city from the summer terrace.
Trattoria da Ugo ( 329 1415850; cnr of Via Cataldo de Tulio & Via Fontana; meals €18-25; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, lunch Sat) A deeply traditional Tarantine trattoria with a seafood-only menu, including grilled mussels, octopus with lemon and olive oil and fried prawns and squid. Superb value.
Trattoria Gesù Cristo ( 099 477 72 53; Via Battisti 8; meals €30; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) Atmospheric family-friendly place southeast of the centre with a menu of seafood that really is the catch of the day (the owners run the fish shop next door). Go for a grilling with the simplest dish on the menu: freshly grilled fish with lemon.
Getting There & Around
BUS
Buses heading north and west depart from Porto Mercantile; those going south and east leave from Via Magnaghi in the new city. Note there are fewer services on Sunday.
FSE ( 800 07 90 80) buses go to Bari (€5.30, 1¾ to 2¼ hours, frequent). Infrequent SITA ( 899 32 52 04; www.sitabus.it, in Italian) buses leave from Porto Mercantile for Matera (€4.60, 1¾ hr, one daily). STP ( 0832 22 44 11) and FSE buses go to Lecce (€7, two hours, five daily).
Marozzi ( 080 579 90 111) has express services serving Rome’s Stazione Tiburtina (€41.50, six hours, four daily). Autolinee Miccolis ( 099 470 44 51) serves Naples (€18, four hours, three daily) via Potenza (€9.50, two hours).
The bus ticket office ( 7am-1.30pm & 3-9.30pm) is at Porto Mercantile.
TRAIN
It’s preferable to travel by train on long-distance routes. Both Trenitalia ( 89 20 21) and FSE ( 099 471 59 01) trains go to Brindisi (€5.10, 1¼ hours, frequent) and Bari (€7.40, 2½ hours, frequent), as well as Rome (from €41, six to 7½ hours, five daily).
AMAT ( 099 4 52 67 32) buses 1, 2, 3 and 8 run between the train station and the new city.
There is metered parking in the Piazza Garibaldi.