Transport

CONTENTS

GETTING THERE & AWAY
   ENTERING THE COUNTRY
   AIR
   LAND
   SEA
GETTING AROUND
   AIR
   BICYCLE
   BOAT
   BUS
   CAR & MOTORCYCLE
   HITCHING
   LOCAL TRANSPORT
   TRAIN


GETTING THERE & AWAY

Competition between airlines means you should be able to pick up a reasonably priced fare to Italy, even from as far away as Australia. If you live in Europe, you’ll often find good deals to and from many Italian cities with a variety of low-cost airlines. On the other hand, the per person carbon emissions of flying are greater than, say, travelling by train. There are plenty of rail and bus connections, especially with northern Italy. Car and passenger ferries operate to ports in Albania, Corsica, Croatia, Greece, Malta, Spain, Tunisia and Turkey.

Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services.

THINGS CHANGE

The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change. Check directly with the airline or a travel agent to make sure you understand how a fare (and ticket you may buy) works and be aware of the security requirements for international travel. Shop carefully. The details given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date research.

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ENTERING THE COUNTRY

Citizens of the 27 European Union (EU) member states and Switzerland can travel to Italy with their national identity card alone. If such countries do not issue ID cards – as in the UK – travellers must carry a full valid passport. All other nationalities must have a valid passport.

If applying for a visa (Click here), check that your passport’s expiry date is at least six months away. If not an EU citizen, you may be required to fill out a landing card (at airports).

By law you are supposed to have your passport or ID card with you at all times. It doesn’t happen often, but it could be embarrassing if you are asked by the police to produce a document and you don’t have it with you. You will need one of these documents for police registration when you take a hotel room.

In theory, there are no passport checks at land crossings from neighbouring countries, as all are members of the Schengen zone (in which border controls have been eliminated). In fact, random customs controls still take place when crossing between Italy and Switzerland.

Airport security is tighter than ever. Check the latest restrictions on what can and cannot be carried on flights as hand-held luggage.

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AIR

High seasons are generally June to September, Christmas and Easter, although it depends in part on your destination. Shoulder season is often from mid-September to the end of October and again in April. Low season is generally November to March.

Airports & Airlines

The country’s main intercontinental gateway is the Leonardo da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino; 06 6 59 51; www.adr.it) in Rome, but many low-cost carriers land at Rome’s Ciampino Airport ( 06 6 59 51; www.adr.it) – Click here for more details. Regular intercontinental flights also serve Milan’s Malpensa Airport ( 02 7485 2200; www.sea-aeroportimilano.it), which is located 50km from the city. Plenty of flights from other European cities fly to regional capitals (Click here for more information).

Many European and international airlines compete with the country’s national carrier, Alitalia. Listed here are some of the more frequent carriers, with Italian contact telephone numbers unless otherwise stated:

Tickets

The internet is increasingly becoming the easiest way of locating and booking reasonably priced seats. This is especially so for flights from around Europe, regardless of whether you are flying with major carriers like Alitalia or low-cost airlines.

Full-time students and those under 26 sometimes have access to discounted fares, especially on longer-haul flights from beyond Europe. You have to show a document proving your date of birth or a valid International Student Identity Card (ISIC) when buying your ticket. Other cheap deals include the discounted tickets released to travel agents and specialist discount agencies.

There is no shortage of online agents:

Africa

From South Africa many major airlines fly to Italy, including British Airways from Cape Town and Johannesburg through the UK; Air France with connections throughout Europe; and Lufthansa connecting through Germany. Ethiopian Airlines has connecting flights from many African capitals to Rome via Addis Ababa. In South Africa, try Flight Centre ( 0860 400 727; www.flightcentre.co.za) or STA Travel ( 0861 781 781; www.statravel.co.za).

Asia

STA Travel proliferates in Asia, with branches in Bangkok ( 02-236 0262; www.statravel.co.th), Singapore ( 6737 7188; www.statravel.com.sg), Hong Kong ( 2730 2800; www.hkst.com) and Japan ( 03 5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp). Another resource in Japan is No 1 Travel ( 03 3205 6073; www.no1-travel.com); in Hong Kong try Four Seas Travel ( 2200 7760; www.fourseas­travel.com).

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL

Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely on, and air travel is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel as a global benefit but believes we have a responsibility to limit our personal contribution to global warming.

Flying & Climate Change

Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced climate change), but planes are the worst offenders – not just because of the sheer distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity consumption over a year.

Carbon Offset Schemes

Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow travellers to offset the level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable schemes that reduce global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan and Uganda.

Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff travel.

For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.

Singapore Air flies nonstop to Rome from three to seven times per week. Thai Airways runs regular flights direct from Bangkok to Rome, as well as to Milan’s Malpensa airport.

Australia

Flights from Australia to Europe generally go via Southeast Asian capitals. Qantas and Alitalia have occasional direct flights or, more regularly, trips that make one stop en route. Most of the major Asian airlines have flights between Australian state capitals and Rome, with a change of flight in Asia along the way. Flights from Perth can be a few hundred dollars cheaper.

STA Travel ( 134 782; www.statravel.com.au) and Flight Centre ( 133 133; www.flightcentre.com.au) are major dealers in cheap airfares, although discounted fares can also be found at your local travel agent. For online bookings, try www.travel.com.au.

Canada

Alitalia flies direct to Milan from Toronto, with connections on to Rome. Air Transat flies nonstop from Montreal to Rome in summer.

Air Canada flies daily from Toronto to Rome, direct and via Montreal and Frankfurt. British Airways, Air France, KLM and Lufthansa all fly to Italy via their respective home countries. Canada’s main student travel organisation is Travel Cuts ( 1 866 246 9762; www.travelcuts.com), with offices in all major cities.

Continental Europe

All national European carriers offer services to Italy. The largest, Air France, Lufthansa and KLM, have offices in all major European cities. Italy’s national carrier, Alitalia, has a huge range of offers on many European destinations. Check out the low-cost airlines too (see Airports & Airlines, Click here).

New Zealand

Singapore Airlines flies from Auckland through Singapore to Rome’s Fiumicino – sometimes with more than one stop. Air New Zealand flies via London. Flight Centre ( 0800 243544; www.flightcentre.co.nz) and STA Travel ( 0800 474400; www.statravel.co.nz) have offices in Auckland as well as in various other cities.

UK & Ireland

The cheapest way to fly between the UK or Ireland and Italy is, generally, the no-frills way. EasyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies to Milan, Naples, Palermo, Pisa, Rome and Venice. Irish Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) has numerous destinations connecting various airports in the UK (especially London Stansted) and Ireland (and elsewhere in Europe) with Italian destinations, including Alghero, Ancona, Bergamo, Bologna, Brescia, Brindisi, Bari, Cagliari, Cuneo, Genoa, Lamezia (Calabria), Milan, Olbia, Palermo, Parma, Perugia, Pescara, Pisa, Rimini, Rome, Trapani, Trieste, Turin and Venice. Some of these routes are seasonal. BMI Baby (www.bmibaby.com) flies from Birmingham to Bergamo and Rome. Prices vary wildly according to season and depend on how far in advance you book.

The two national airlines linking the UK and Italy are British Airways and Alitalia, both operating regular flights to Rome, Milan, Venice, Florence, Naples, Palermo, Turin and Pisa.

STA Travel ( 0871 230 0040; www.statravel.co.uk) and Trailfinders ( 0845 050 5945; www.trailfinders.com), with offices throughout the UK, sell discounted and student tickets.

Most British travel agents are registered with the Association of British Travel Agents (ABTA). If you have paid for your flight with an ABTA-registered agent who then goes bust, ABTA will guarantee a refund or some alternative.

USA

Alitalia has nonstop daily flights from New York’s JFK airport to Rome Fiumicino and Milan Malpensa. Various European and US airlines fly into Rome and Milan, mostly via other European hubs such as Amsterdam, Frankfurt and Paris.

Discount travel agencies in the USA are known as consolidators. San Francisco is the ticket-consolidator capital of America, though good deals can be found in other big cities.

STA Travel ( 800 781 40 40; www.statravel.com) has offices in Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, New York, Philadelphia, San Francisco and many more locations. Fares vary wildly depending on season, availability and luck. Discover Italy ( 1 866 878 7477; www.discoveritaly.com) offers flight, hotel- and villa-booking services.

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LAND

There are plenty of options for entering Italy by train, bus or private vehicle. Bus is the cheapest option, but services are less frequent, less comfortable and significantly longer than the train. Check whether you require a visa to pass through any countries on your way.

Border Crossings

The main points of entry to Italy from France are the coast road from Nice, which becomes the A10 motorway along the Ligurian coast, and the Mont Blanc tunnel near Chamonix, which connects with the A5 for Turin and Milan. From Switzerland, the Grand St Bernard tunnel also connects with the A5 and the Simplon tunnel connects with the SS33 road that leads to Lago Maggiore. From Austria, the Brenner Pass connects with the A22 to Bologna. The Gotthard tunnel (which will have a new parallel railway tunnel, the Gotthard Base tunnel, possibly by 2015) in Switzerland crosses the Swiss Alps into the Swiss canton of Ticino, from where the N2 highway heads south into Italy via Lugano. All these tunnels are open year-round. Other mountain passes are often closed in winter and sometimes even in autumn and spring. Make sure you have snow chains if driving in winter.

Regular trains on two lines connect Italy with France in the west (one along the coast and the other via the French Alps to Turin). Trains from Milan head for Switzerland and on into France and the Netherlands. Two main lines head for the main cities in Austria and on into Germany, France or Eastern Europe. Those crossing the frontier at the Brenner Pass go to Innsbruck, Stuttgart and Munich. Those crossing at Tarvisio in the east proceed to Vienna, Salzburg and Prague. The main international train line to Slovenia crosses near Trieste.

Bus

Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) is a consortium of European coach companies that operates across Europe with offices in all major European cities. Italy-bound buses head to Milan, Rome, Florence, Siena, Venice and other Italian cities and all come equipped with on-board toilet facilities.

BUS PASSES

Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) offers a low-season pass valid for 15/30 days that costs €199/299 (€169/229 for under-26s and senior citizens over 60). This pass allows unlimited travel between 40 European cities. Italian cities on the route are Milan, Venice, Florence, Siena and Rome. Fares increase to €329/439 (€279/359) between June and mid-September.

Car & Motorcycle

CONTINENTAL EUROPE

When driving in Europe, always carry proof of ownership of a private vehicle and evidence of third-party insurance. If driving a vehicle registered and insured in an EU country, your home country insurance is sufficient. Theoretically, the International Insurance Certificate, also known as the Carta Verde (Green Card), is no longer required for EU-registered cars. Unfortunately, in case of an accident, police may still ask for it!

Ask your insurer for a European Accident Statement (EAS) form, which can simplify matters in the event of an accident.

A European breakdown assistance policy is a good investment. If you don’t have one, assistance can be obtained through the Automobile Club d’Italia (Click here).

Every vehicle travelling across an international border should display a nationality plate of its country of registration (unless it has the standard EU number plates with the blue strip and country ID).

You can book a car before you leave home (for multinational car-rental agencies Click here), but you can sometimes find better deals by dealing with local agencies as you go (check individual chapters for contact information). Check with your credit-card company to see if it offers a Collision Damage Waiver, which covers you for additional damage if you use that card to pay for the car. Many car-rental agencies request that you bring the car back with the tank filled and will charge you extra if it’s not. Many companies do not rent cars or bikes to drivers aged 25 and younger.

Italy is made for motorcycle touring, and motorcyclists swarm into the country in summer to meander along the scenic roads. With a bike you rarely have to book ahead for ferries and can enter restricted-traffic areas in cities. Crash helmets are compulsory. The US-based Beach’s Motorcycle Adventures ( 1 716 773 4960; www.beachs-mca.com) can arrange two-week tours around various parts of Italy in May and October. Riders need to have a motorcycle licence – an international one is best.

One interesting way to get around Italy is to rent or buy a camper van. Check IdeaMerge (www.ideamerge.com) for where you can lease or buy vehicles.

UK

You can take your car across to France by ferry or via the Channel Tunnel on Eurotunnel ( 0870 535 3535; www.eurotunnel.com). The latter runs four crossings (35 minutes) an hour between Folkestone and Calais in the high season.

For breakdown assistance, both the AA ( for European breakdown cover 0800 085 7253; www.theaa.com) and the RAC ( in UK 08705 722722; www.rac.co.uk) offer comprehensive cover in Europe.

Train

In the era of low-cost air travel, rail seems to have become outmoded. Hold your horses! Depending on distances travelled, rail can be highly competitive. Those travelling from neighbouring countries to northern Italy will find it is frequently only marginally longer and/or more expensive. There are advantages. You avoid all the airport hassle and generally can rely on trains being on time. Trains are generally more civilised than cattle class on airplanes, with more space and dining cars.

Those travelling longer distances (say, from London, Spain, the northern half of Germany or Eastern Europe) will no doubt find flying cheaper and quicker. Even then, if you have time, loathe airports, have a fear of flying or simply enjoy moving a little more slowly, trains can have a charm all of their own.

It is also a much greener way to go – the same trip by rail can contribute up to 10 times less carbon dioxide emissions per person than by air. As Europe’s cutting-edge, high-speed rail network is expanded in coming years, it will become increasingly difficult to talk of rail travel being slow!

CONTINENTAL EUROPE

Thomas Cook’s European Rail Timetable has a complete listing of train schedules. The timetable is updated monthly and available from Thomas Cook offices worldwide and online (www.thomascookpublishing.com) for around UK£14. It is always advisable, and sometimes compulsory, to book seats on international trains to/from Italy. Some of the main international services include transport for private cars. Consider taking long journeys overnight, as the €20 or so extra for a sleeper costs substantially less than Italian hotels.

UK

The passenger train Eurostar ( 08705 186186; www.eurostar.com) travels between London and Paris, and London and Brussels. Alternatively you can get a train ticket that includes crossing the Channel by ferry.

For the latest fare information on journeys to Italy, including the Eurostar, contact the Rail Europe Travel Centre ( in UK 08448 484064; www.raileurope.co.uk). Another source of rail information for all of Europe is Rail Choice (www.railchoice.com). Travel times depend in large measure on what connections you make in Paris.

RAIL PASSES

The InterRail Pass is available to people who have lived in Europe for six months or more. It can be bought at most major stations and student travel outlets.

Eurail passes are for those who have lived in Europe for less than six months and are supposed to be bought outside Europe. They are available from leading travel agencies and online at www.eurail.com.

Seniors travelling from the UK should ask at the Rail Europe Travel Centre about possible discounts on rail travel in continental Europe (see opposite).

InterRail Passes

InterRail (www.interrail.net, www.interrailnet.com) passes are for people who have been resident in Europe for more than six months. A Global pass encompassing 30 countries comes in four versions, ranging from five days’ travel in 10 days to a full month’s travel. These in turn come with three prices: adult 1st class, adult 2nd class and youth 2nd class. The one-month pass costs, respectively, €809/599/399. The InterRail one-country pass for Italy can be used for three, four, six or eight days in one month. For the eight-day pass you pay €309/229/149/154.50/114.50 for adult 1st class/adult 2nd class/youth 2nd class/child 1st class/child 2nd class. Children’s passes are for kids aged 4 to 11, youth passes for people aged 12 to 25, and adult passes for those 26 and over. Children aged three and under travel for free. Cardholders get discounts on travel in the country where they purchase the ticket.

Eurail Passes

Eurail passes are good for travel in 20 European countries (not including the UK), but forget it if you intend to travel mainly in Italy. People aged over 26 pay for a 1st-class Global Pass and those aged under 26 for a 2nd-class-pass version.

Passes are valid for 15 days, 21 days, or for one, two or three months; the 1st-class adult pass costs €511/662/822/1161/1432. The 2nd-class youth version comes in at €332/429/535/755/933. Children aged between four and 11 pay half-price for the 1st-class passes.

The 1st-class Saver is for groups of two or more and brings a 15% reduction in the standard Global Pass adult prices. Another option is a Global Pass for 10/15 days’ travel within two months, which costs €603/792. The 15-day version costs €675/515 for the Saver/2nd-class youth versions.

Eurail Selectpasses

This provides between five and 15 days of unlimited travel within a two-month period in three to five bordering countries (from a total of 23 possible countries). As with Global passes, those aged over 26 pay for a 1st-class pass, while those aged under 26 can get a cheaper, 2nd-class pass. The basic five-day pass for three countries costs €324/275/211 for the 1st-class adult/Saver/2nd-class youth versions.

Regional & National Passes

Eurail also offers an Italy national pass and several two-country regional passes (France-Italy, Spain-Italy and Greece-Italy). Choose from three to 10 days’ train travel in a two-month period for any of these passes. Single-country and regional passes come in five versions: 1st- and 2nd-class adult, 1st-class and 2nd-class adult Saver, and 2nd-class youth. The 10-day regional pass for Italy and France costs €442/386/386/338/295. The 10-day Italy pass costs €335/271/285/231/221. As with all Eurail passes, make sure you will be covering a lot of ground to make these worthwhile. Check some sample prices in euros of where you intend to travel on the Trenitalia (www.trenitalia.com) website to compare.

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SEA

Dozens of ferry companies connect Italy with virtually every other Mediterranean country. The helpful search engine Traghettionline (www.traghettionline.com, in Italian) covers all the ferry companies in the Mediterranean; you can also book online. Tickets are most expensive in summer, and many routes are only operated in summer. Prices for vehicles usually vary according to their size.

Ferry companies and their destinations:

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GETTING AROUND

You can reach almost any destination in Italy by train, bus or ferry, and services are efficient and cheap; for longer distances there are plenty of domestic air services.

Your own wheels give you the most freedom, but benzina (petrol) and autostrada (motorway) tolls are expensive and Italian drivers have a style all their own: the stress of driving and parking in a big Italian city could outweigh the delights of puttering about elsewhere in the country. One solution might be to take public transport between large cities and rent a car only for country drives.

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AIR

The privatised national airline, Alitalia, is the main domestic carrier. Smaller airlines have brought competition, although tough times have seen some close. Among those listed at the beginning of the chapter (Click here) EasyJet, Meridiana, MyAir and Windjet operate domestic flights. AirAlps (A6; 06 2222; www.airalps.at) has short-range domestic flights – book through Alitalia.

Alitalia is generally fairly expensive, but you should enquire about possible discounted rates for young people, families, seniors and weekend travellers, as well as advance-purchase deals. Airport taxes are factored into the price of your ticket.

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BICYCLE

Cycling is a popular pastime in Italy. There are no special road rules, but you would be wise to equip yourself with a helmet and lights. With good reason, you cannot take bikes onto the autostradas. If you plan to bring your own bike, check with your airline for any additional costs. The bike will need to be disassembled and packed for the journey. Make sure you include a few tools, spare parts and a hefty bike lock and chain.

Bikes can be taken on any train carrying the bicycle logo. The cheapest way to do this is to buy a separate bicycle ticket (€3.50, or €5 to €12 on Intercity, Eurostar and Euronight trains), available even at the self-service kiosks. You can use this ticket for 24 hours, making a day trip quite economical. Bikes dismantled and stored in a bag can be taken for free, even on night trains, and all ferries allow free bicycle passage.

In the UK, Cyclists’ Touring Club ( 0844 736 8450; www.ctc.org.uk) can help you plan your tour or organise a guided tour. Membership costs £12 for under-18s and students, and £36 for adults.

Hire

Bikes are available for hire in most Italian towns, and many places have both city and mountain bikes. In Florence, for instance, there are several private outlets and a municipal scheme. Rental costs for a city bike start at €10/30 per day/week.

Purchase

If you shop around, bargain prices for bikes range from about €100 for a standard women’s bike without gears to €210 for a mountain bike with 16 gears.

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BOAT

Navi (large ferries) service Sicily and Sardinia, and traghetti (smaller ferries) and aliscafi (hydrofoils) service the smaller islands. The main embarkation points for Sardinia are Genoa, Livorno, Civitavecchia and Naples; for Sicily the main points are Naples and Villa San Giovanni in Calabria (near Reggio Calabria). The main points of arrival in Sardinia are Cagliari, Arbatax, Olbia and Porto Torres; in Sicily they’re Palermo and Messina.

For a comprehensive guide to all ferry services into and out of Italy, check out Traghettionline (www.traghettionline.com, in Italian). The website lists every route and includes links to ferry companies, where you can buy tickets or search for deals.

Tirrenia Navigazione ( 892123; www.tirrenia.it) is the main national ferry company and services most Italian ports.

Detailed information on ferry companies, prices and times for Sicily can be found on Click here, and for Sardinia on Click here. For other relevant destinations, see the Getting There & Away sections of individual chapters.

Many ferry services operate overnight, and travellers can choose between cabin accommodation in a two- to four-person cabin or even a dorm, or a poltrona, which is an airline-type armchair. Deck class (which allows you to sit/sleep in the general lounge areas or on deck) is available only on some ferries. Most ferries carry vehicles.

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BUS

Numerous companies provide bus services in Italy, ranging from local routes meandering between villages to fast and reliable intercity connections. Buses are not always cheaper than the train but are often the only way to get to smaller towns.

It is usually possible to get bus timetables from local tourist offices. In larger cities most of the intercity bus companies have ticket offices or operate through agencies. In some villages and even good-size towns, tickets are sold in bars or on the bus.

Although it’s usually not necessary to make reservations on buses, booking is advisable in the high season for overnight or long-haul trips.

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CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Italy boasts an extensive privatised network of autostradas, represented on road signs by a white A followed by a number on a green background. The main north—south link is the Autostrada del Sole (the ‘Motorway of the Sun’), which extends from Milan to Reggio di Calabria (called the A1 from Milan to Rome, the A2 from Rome to Naples, and the A3 from Naples to Reggio di Calabria).

On most of the motorways you pay a toll. You can pay by cash or credit card as you leave the autostrada. For information on road tolls and passes, contact Autostrade per l’Italia ( 840 042121; www.autostrade.it, in Italian), where you can also get information on the latest traffic situation.

Off the beaten path you’ll be doing most of your travelling on the larger system of strade statali (state highways). On maps they’re represented by ‘S’ or ‘SS’ and can vary from toll-free, four-lane highways to two-lane main roads. The latter can be extremely slow, especially in mountainous regions. Two other categories, in descending order, are the similar strade regionali (highways administered by the regions, coded SR or R) and strade provinciali (administered at provincial level, SP or P), which you’ll find in rural areas and connecting small villages. Finally there are strade locali, which might not even be paved or mapped. You’ll often find the most beautiful scenery off the provincial and local roads.

Automobile Associations

The ever-handy Automobile Club d’Italia (ACI; www.aci.it; Via Colombo 261, Rome) is a driver’s best resource in Italy. To reach the ACI in a roadside emergency, dial 803116 from a landline or 800 116800 from a mobile phone. Foreigners do not have to join but instead pay a per-incident fee. The numbers operate 24 hours a day.

Bring Your Own Vehicle

Cars entering Italy from abroad need a valid national licence plate and an accompanying registration card. A car imported from a country that does not use the Latin alphabet will need to have its registration card translated at the nearest Italian consulate before entering the country.Click here.

If you plan to ship your car, be aware that you must have less than a quarter of a tank of petrol. Unfortunately, you can’t use your vehicle as a double for luggage storage; it’s supposed to be empty apart from any necessary car-related items. All vehicles must be equipped with any necessary adjustments for the Italian market; for example, left-side-drive cars will need to have their headlamps adjusted.

Driving Licence

All EU member states’ driving licences are fully recognised throughout Europe. Those with a non-EU licence are supposed to obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP) to accompany their national licence, which your national automobile association can issue. It’s valid for 12 months and must be kept with your proper licence. In practice, many non-EU licences (such as Australian, Canadian, New Zealand and US licences) are generally accepted by car-hire outfits in Italy. People who have held residency in Italy for one year or more must apply for an Italian driving licence (those holding an EU-country licence will have to exchange this for the Italian version). If you want to hire a car or motorcycle you’ll need to produce your driving licence.

Fuel & Spare Parts

Italy is covered by a good network of petrol stations. Prices are among the highest in Europe and vary from one service station (benzinaio, stazione di servizio) to another. Lead-free (senza piombo; 95 octane) costs up to €1.11 per litre. A 98-octane variant costs as much as €1.20 per litre. Diesel (gasolio) comes in at €1.06 per litre. Prices fluctuate with world oil prices.

For spare parts, try the 24-hour ACI motorist assistance number, 803116, although it may be easier to seek out a garage.

Hire

CARS

Most tourist offices and hotels can provide information about car or motorcycle rental. To rent a car in Italy you have to be aged 25 or over and you have to have a credit card. Most firms will accept your standard licence or IDP for identification purposes. Consider hiring a small car, which you’ll be grateful for when negotiating narrow city lanes.

Multinational car rental agencies:

MOTORCYCLES

You’ll have no trouble hiring a small Vespa or scooter. There are numerous rental agencies in cities where you’ll also be able to hire larger motorcycles for touring. The average cost for a 50cc scooter (per person) is around €20/150 per day/week. Note that many places require a sizable deposit, and you could be responsible for reimbursing part of the cost of the bike if it is stolen.

Most agencies will not hire motorcycles to people under 18. See below for more details.

Insurance

You need insurance when bringing your own car to Italy. See the Continental Europe section, Click here.

Car-hire companies offer various insurance options. Be careful to understand what your liabilities and excess are and what waivers you are entitled to in case of accident or damage to the hire vehicle.

Road Rules

In Italy, as in the rest of continental Europe, cars drive on the right side of the road and overtake on the left. Unless otherwise indicated, you must always give way to cars entering an intersection from a road on your right. It is compulsory to wear front seat belts, as well as rear seat belts if the car is fitted with them. If you are caught not wearing a seat belt, you will be required to pay an on-the-spot fine.

A warning triangle (to be used in the event of a breakdown) is compulsory throughout Europe. Recommended accessories are a first-aid kit, spare-bulb kit and fire extinguisher. If your car breaks down and you get out of the vehicle, you risk a fine if you neglect to wear an approved yellow or orange safety vest (available at bicycle shops and outdoor stores).

Random breath tests take place in Italy. If you’re involved in an accident while under the influence of alcohol, the penalties can be severe. The blood-alcohol limit is 0.05%.

The speed limit on the autostradas is 130km/h (on some motorways with three lanes in either direction, the limit can be raised to 150km/h), and on all other highways it is 110km/h. On minor, non-urban roads, it is up to 90km/h. In built-up areas, the limit is 50km/h. Speeding fines follow EU standards and are proportionate with the number of kilometres that you are caught driving over the speed limit, reaching up to €2000 with possible suspension of your driving licence.

You don’t need a licence to ride a scooter under 50cc but you should be aged 14 or over and you can’t carry passengers or ride on an autostrada. Indeed, you should not venture on to an autostrada with a bike of less than 150cc. On all two-wheeled transport, helmets are required. The speed limit for a moped is 40km/h. To ride a motorcycle or scooter up to 125cc, you must be aged 16 or over and have a licence (a car licence will do). Helmets are compulsory. For motorcycles over 125cc you need a motorcycle licence.

You’ll be able to enter most restricted traffic areas in Italian cities on a motorcycle without any problems, and traffic police generally turn a blind eye to motorcycles or scooters parked on footpaths.

All vehicles must use headlights at all times (day and night) on the autostradas. It is advisable for motorcycles on all roads at all times.

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HITCHING

Hitching is uncommon in Italy. Public transport is reliable (save for regular train and bus strikes) and most Italians would rather give up an arm than their car. Hitchhikers can be stranded for hours and women would be extremely unwise to hitch.

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LOCAL TRANSPORT

All the major cities have good transport systems, with bus and underground-train networks usually integrated. In Venice, your only options are by vaporetti (small passenger ferries) or to go on foot.

Bus & Underground Trains

You must buy bus tickets before you board the bus and validate them once on board. If you get caught with an unvalidated ticket you will be fined on the spot (up to €50 in most cities).

There are metropolitane (underground systems) in Rome, Milan, Naples and Turin (which has built the country’s first automated metro line). Again, you must buy tickets and validate them before getting on the train, with fines of up to €50 if you don’t. You can get a map of the network from tourist offices in the relevant city.

Every city or town of any size has an efficient urbano (city) and extraurbano (city, suburbs and outlying areas) system of buses that reach even the most remote of villages. Services can be limited (or nonexistent) on Sundays and holidays.

Tickets can be bought from a tabaccaio (tobacconist), newsstands, ticket booths or dispensing machines at bus stations and in underground stations, and usually cost around €1 to €1.20. Most large cities offer good-value 24-hour or daily tourist tickets.

Taxi

You can usually find taxi ranks at train and bus stations or you can telephone for radio taxis. It’s best to go to a designated taxi stand, as it’s illegal for them to stop in the street if hailed. If you phone a taxi, bear in mind the meter starts running from when you’ve called rather than when it picks you up.

Charges vary somewhat from one region to another. In Milan, for instance, there is a minimum charge ranging from €3 to €6.10, depending on the time of day or night, plus €0.98 per km (rising to €1.47 per km after the first €13.25). Most short city journeys cost between €10 and €15. Generally, no more than four people are allowed in one taxi.

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TRAIN

Trains in Italy are relatively cheap compared with other European countries, and the better categories of train are fast and comfortable.

Trenitalia ( 892021 in Italian; www.trenitalia.com, www.ferroviedellostato.it) is the partially privatised, state train system that runs most services. Other private Italian train lines are noted throughout this book.

There are several types of trains. Some stop at all or most stations, such as regionale or interregionale trains. Intercity (IC) trains are fast services that operate between major cities. Eurocity (EC) trains are the international version. High-speed pendolini and other fast services are collectively known as Eurostar Italia (ES), and some make fewer stops than others.

Quicker still, the Alta Velocità (High Speed) services (variously known as AV and ESA) that began operation on the new Turin—Milan—Bologna—Florence—Rome—Naples—Salerno line in late 2009 have revolutionised train travel on that route. Nonstop trains between Milan and Rome take three hours, at least 2½ hours less than any other standard service (an Intercity train takes 6¼ hours)! With stops in Bologna and Florence, the time is 3½ hours. Already in early 2009, fast trains using standard track had cut traditional travel times (3½ and four hours, respectively, on the Milan—Rome route). Prices vary according to the time of travel and how far in advance you book.

Classes & Costs

There are 1st and 2nd classes on most Italian trains; a 1st-class ticket typically costs from a third to half more than the 2nd-class ticket.

STAMP IT!

Countless foreigner travellers in Italy learn the hard way that their train tickets must be stamped in the yellow machines (usually found at the head of rail platforms) just before boarding. Failure to do so usually results in fines, although the cry of ‘I didn’t know’ sometimes elicits an indulgent response from ticket controllers. So stamp that ticket!

Travel on Intercity, Eurostar and Alta Velocità trains means paying a supplement, determined by the distance you are travelling. This is included in the ticket, but if you have a standard ticket for, say, an interregionale and end up hopping on to a faster IC train, you will have to pay the difference on board. You can only board a Eurostar or Alta Velocità train if you have a booking, so the problem does not arise in those cases.

For longer trips, the faster trains are generally worth the extra paid. On the Rome—Milan run, for instance, the difference in price in 2nd class between the 6¼-hour IC train and the 3½-hour run on the AV is €22.50.

For shorter hops (say, Venice—Padua or even Milan—Turin, for which there is at most a half-hour time gain for up to three times the price of a regionale ticket), the time gain is often not worth the extra money.

Reservations

Reservations are obligatory on Eurostar and AV trains. Otherwise they’re not and, generally, you should be fine without them. You can do this at railway station counters, selected travel agents and, when they haven’t broken down, at the automated machines sprinkled around most stations. Reservations generally carry a fee of an extra €3.

Train Passes

Trenitalia offers various discount passes. The one-year Carta Verde (Green Card, €40) is for people between the ages of 12 and 26, and the Carta d’Argento (Silver Card, €30) is for seniors over 60. They provide discounts of between 10% and 15% on most trains and up to 25% off standard fares on international journeys beginning or ending in Italy. They’re worth considering if you are staying in Italy for a while and planning to cover a fair amount of ground. Apply at train stations and most travel agents.

Other discount possibilities include the Amica and Familia options. The former can get you up to 20% off certain trips that are booked ahead, while the latter offers discounts for families of three to five people, of whom at least one must be an adult and one a child under 12. Ask at stations.

For information on various rail passes you can acquire before arrival in Italy, Click here.


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