MEAT
It’s true of every chef that you cook the things you most want to eat, and when you write recipes for the foods you’re mad keen on, you have an extra layer of enthusiasm. You just can’t help it. And that’s me when it comes to meat. I’ll never stop finding new things to do with it. Whenever I visit other restaurants, or even other countries, I’m always fascinated to see what other people do with meat. I get properly excited!
For me, there’s something particularly special about slow-cooked meat dishes. There’s a sort of magic that happens when you add seasoning and heat and let them do their own thing for a few hours… or a lot of hours when it comes to cholent, which is one of my favourite recipes in this chapter. And I love ribs of all kinds too. You can’t beat that feeling of gnawing on a really tasty bit of meat, getting stuck in – it brings out the caveman in all of us! If you need any convincing, try the dry-rub beef ribs.
Here, I’ve tried to take fairly simple dishes and make them extra special. So if you have time, I hope you’ll have a go at brining the bird for your weekend roast chicken, as that little bit of added effort yields brilliant results. If it’s something faster you’re after, try the chicken fried steak, a Texan favourite I hope will catch on here because it’s simple and really, really good: steak in a crispy, spicy batter served with creamy gravy spiked with a bit of horseradish. It’s the ultimate comfort food.
I like to think that if you master one dish, you can use it in several different ways. For example, once you’ve cracked the beef and beer loaf, you can use that same mixture to make sausages, meatballs and terrines. I’m really hoping that the recipes in this chapter will encourage you to share my enthusiasm for delicious, versatile meat. I’d like them to become blueprints – starting points for you to create your own family favourites.
WEEKEND ROAST CHICKEN
Everybody loves a roast chicken! The most important thing is to buy the best chicken you can afford: the better the chicken, the better the flavour. It’s as simple as that. This is a ‘weekend chicken’, because you need to start it the day before you want to eat it, but don’t let that put you off – the recipe is very easy. When you taste it, you’ll agree it’s worth a little advance planning.
SERVES 4–6
1 large chicken, about 2kg, giblets removed
1 unwaxed lemon, quartered
A small bunch of rosemary
For the brine
3.5 litres water
300g salt
150g caster sugar
4 bay leaves
1 tbsp mustard seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
2 unwaxed lemons, sliced
For the rub
50ml olive oil
3 tbsp maple syrup
2 tsp salt
2 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
First make the brine. Put all the ingredients except the lemons into a large saucepan. Bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Transfer to a bowl or container that will fit the chicken, add the lemon slices and leave to cool. Once cooled, cover with cling film and refrigerate.
Before you go to bed, place the chicken in the brine, making sure it’s fully submerged. Cover with cling film or a lid and place in the fridge. Leave to brine overnight for about 8 hours (no more than 12 hours or the chicken will be too salty).
The next morning, lift the chicken from the brine and pat it dry with plenty of kitchen paper. Place on a rack in a large roasting tin and return to the fridge, uncovered, for another 6–8 hours to dry out the skin (ready to crisp up in the oven).
Take the chicken out of the fridge 30 minutes before cooking. Preheat the oven to 140°C/Fan 120°C/Gas 1. Mix the ingredients for the rub together in a bowl, then smear all over the chicken, to coat evenly. Return the bird to the rack in the roasting tin, breast side up, and put the lemon and rosemary in the cavity.
Roast for 3 hours, basting from time to time. The chicken is cooked when a meat thermometer inserted in the thigh area near the breast (but not touching the bone) registers 70°C, or the juices run clear when the same area is pierced with a skewer. For the last 10 minutes, whack the oven temperature up to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7 to crisp and brown the skin.
Remove from the oven and stand the bird upright to let the juices in the cavity pour into the tin. Cover loosely with foil and rest in a warm place for 10 minutes or so. Serve the chicken with the ‘gravy’ created by the juices in the tin, and seasonal vegetables.
JERK CHICKEN
If you know my cooking at all, you’ll know I love a bit of heat! This spicy Jamaican classic is a great favourite of mine. I like the way that the allspice brings a real complexity to the dish, with its rich clove, cinnamon and ginger notes. Marinating the chicken brings an amazing depth of flavour.
SERVES 4
1 medium-large chicken, about 1.7kg, jointed into 8 pieces
For the marinade
1 large onion, roughly chopped
200g red chillies (about 10–12), roughly chopped (seeds and all)
125g ginger, peeled and roughly chopped
200ml dark soy sauce
200ml white wine vinegar
40g freshly ground black pepper
35g ground allspice
3 tbsp thyme leaves
First make the marinade. Put the onion, chillies and ginger into a food processor and blend to a smooth, fine pulp. Add the soy sauce, wine vinegar, black pepper, allspice and thyme leaves and whiz again to blend in the spices.
Put the chicken pieces into a large bowl or plastic container. Pour over the marinade and, using your hands, massage it all over the chicken pieces, making sure each piece is well coated. Cover with cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge for 24 hours to allow the flavours to develop and intensify.
The next day, remove the chicken from the fridge 30 minutes before cooking. Preheat the oven to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5. Place a wire rack inside a large, deep roasting tin and pour about 2cm of water into the tin. This will steam the chicken during roasting, making it deliciously tender and succulent.
Remove the chicken pieces from the marinade and place them on the rack. Roast in the oven for 35–40 minutes, until cooked through, basting a couple of times with the juices from the roasting tray and some of the marinade – let the chicken cook for at least 20 minutes after the final basting with the marinade. The chicken is cooked when the juices run clear when pierced in the thickest part with a skewer, or the internal temperature registers 70°C on a meat thermometer.
Preheat the grill to high. Place the chicken pieces under the hot grill for a few minutes until richly glazed and dark brown, even charred in places. (Alternatively, you can refrigerate the cooked chicken then chargrill it on the barbecue later, making sure it’s piping hot in the middle before you serve it.)
Once grilled and nicely glazed, leave the chicken pieces to rest in a warm place for 10 minutes before serving. Serve simply, with rice and a nice crisp green salad.
Pan-Roasted Chicken with Milk Gravy >
PAN-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH MILK GRAVY
This is such a simple and comforting dish, full of the rich flavours of chicken and mushrooms in a lovely milk gravy. The secret is to cook it gently and slowly to extract the maximum flavour.
SERVES 4
1 medium-large chicken, about 1.7kg, jointed into 8 pieces
2 tbsp plain flour
2 tsp flaky sea salt
2 tsp cayenne pepper
Vegetable oil, for cooking
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the sauce
100ml sweet white wine
50ml malt vinegar
35g butter
1 beef stock cube
20g dried ceps or porcini, blitzed to a powder in a mini food processor
35g plain flour
500ml whole milk
200g button mushrooms, cleaned and quartered
Have the chicken pieces ready at room temperature. Mix the flour, salt and cayenne pepper together and scatter on a large plate. Dust the chicken pieces in the seasoned flour, coating them evenly and shaking off any excess.
Heat a large, non-stick, high-sided sauté pan (big enough to fit all the chicken pieces) over a medium-low heat and add a thin film of oil. When the oil is hot, add the chicken pieces and fry them slowly, turning frequently and carefully to avoid tearing the skin. It will take about 40–45 minutes for the chicken to cook through and turn golden brown all over.
Once cooked, remove the chicken pieces with a slotted spoon to a plate or tray and keep warm while you make the sauce.
Turn up the heat under the pan to medium-high and deglaze the pan with the wine and vinegar, scraping up any tasty bits from the bottom. Let the liquor bubble until reduced to a syrupy glaze. Add the butter and, when it’s melted, crumble in the stock cube and sprinkle on the mushroom powder. Now stir in the flour to make a thick paste. Cook, stirring, for a few minutes to cook out the raw flour taste.
Next, pour in the milk a little at a time, whisking well after each addition. Once it is all incorporated, lower the heat and simmer gently for 5–6 minutes until it starts to thicken. Add the mushrooms to the sauce and poach them gently, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes until they are tender.
Return the chicken pieces to the pan and warm through, coating them in the sauce. If the sauce is a little too thick, thin it with a little hot water or milk. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with creamy mash and wilted greens.
MEDITERRANEAN CHICKEN
This easy, one-dish chicken dinner is like the top of a really good pizza – without the dough. It takes just a few minutes to throw together and is really tasty. As the tomatoes break down, they release their juices to make a light, fragrant tomato sauce, and the chicken soaks up the flavours of the other ingredients.
SERVES 4
4 chicken supremes (bone in), skinned
600g mixed ripe tomatoes, larger ones roughly chopped, cherry tomatoes left whole
30g black olives, pitted
1 garlic clove, sliced
1 tsp dried oregano
60ml extra virgin olive oil
8 slices of Milano salami, or other well-flavoured salami
1 medium red onion, cut into 8 wedges through the root
2 balls of buffalo mozzarella, about 125g each
1 tbsp fine polenta
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp oregano leaves, to finish
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6.
Lightly season the chicken supremes with salt and pepper and place them in an ovenproof dish, about 25cm square.
Toss the tomatoes, olives, garlic and oregano together in a bowl. Trickle over about two-thirds of the olive oil and toss the tomatoes again to coat.
Tip the dressed tomatoes over the chicken, pushing them down well with a spoon so that everything becomes well mixed together. Lay the salami and onion wedges over the chicken, then tear the mozzarella over the top.
Sprinkle over the polenta and bake for 25–30 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through, the onions are charred around the edges and the cheese is bubbling and melted.
Remove from the oven. Trickle over the rest of the olive oil and scatter over the oregano leaves just before serving.
CHICKEN CASSEROLE
This is one of the easiest but also one of the tastiest chicken casseroles you will ever make – it is a one-pot wonder and a great family treat. Based on the classic French poule au pot, it packs in a whole lot of flavours and textures. If you have any of the lovely stock left over, freeze it to use in soups or sauces later.
SERVES 4–6
1 medium chicken, about 1.5kg, giblets removed
2 carrots, each cut into 4 pieces
2 celery sticks (tough strings removed with a vegetable peeler), each cut into 4 pieces
1 small white cabbage, about 350g, quartered
1 leek, trimmed and well washed, cut into 6 pieces
½ celeriac, peeled and cut into 4 pieces
8 pickling onions or small shallots, peeled and halved
8 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole
1 cured garlic sausage, about 200g, cut into 1cm dice
100g smoked lardons
½ bunch of thyme
½ bunch of rosemary
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 star anise
700ml chicken stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 170°C/Fan 150°C/Gas 3½.
Season the chicken cavity lightly with salt. Put all of the vegetables and the garlic into a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Toss to mix.
Scatter a layer of vegetables in the bottom of a large, heavy-based flameproof casserole and place the chicken on top. Pack the remaining vegetables, garlic sausage and lardons around the chicken and tuck the thyme, rosemary, fennel seeds, peppercorns and star anise into the pot too.
Pour in the chicken stock. Put the casserole over a medium-high heat and bring to the boil. Cover with a tight-fitting lid. Place in the oven and cook for 1½ hours. Remove from the oven and leave, covered, to rest for 20–30 minutes.
Carefully lift the chicken from the pot onto a baking tray. Use a cook’s blowtorch, if you have one, to colour the skin until it’s golden. (This isn’t essential but it will add colour to the dish.)
Shred the chicken into large pieces and divide it and the vegetables between warmed deep plates. Ladle over some of the broth and pour the rest into a warmed jug to pass around the table.
Pulled Duck Buns with Plum Sauce >
PULLED DUCK BUNS WITH PLUM SAUCE
I can’t get enough of this duck version of pulled pork, with its rich plum sauce. The beauty of duck – like pork – is that it has a great meat-to-fat ratio and really soaks up complex flavours. One of the benefits of this recipe it that you can make it a day or two ahead and then reheat it to serve.
SERVES 6
1 large duck, about 2.5kg
4 star anise
1 tbsp Szechuan peppercorns
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp flaky sea salt
1 tsp ground ginger
For the plum sauce
1 onion, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
100g caster sugar
100ml red wine vinegar
50ml beef stock
150ml dark soy sauce
400g plums, halved and stoned
3cm piece of ginger, finely grated
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 unwaxed limes
2 tbsp clear honey
A dash of Tabasco sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
Steamed buns, pancakes or wraps, warmed
1 red chilli, sliced
¼ cucumber, sliced
4 spring onions, trimmed and finely shredded
First prepare the duck. Using a sharp knife, carefully score the duck skin all over, making sure you don’t go so deep that you cut into the meat. Set aside.
Lightly toast the star anise, Szechuan peppercorns, coriander seeds and salt in a small, dry frying pan over a medium heat, until aromatic. Remove from the pan and let cool slightly then grind to a powder using an electric spice grinder or pestle and mortar. Stir in the ground ginger.
Rub the spice mixture all over the duck, using your hands to massage it into the skin and making sure the duck is well coated all over. Leave to stand for an hour or so, to allow the flavours to develop. (Or leave in the fridge overnight, taking it out an hour before cooking to bring back to room temperature.)
Preheat the oven to 150°C/Fan 130°C/Gas 2. Place the duck, breast side up, on a wire rack inside a large roasting tray and roast for 2½ hours, basting from time to time.
Remove the duck from the oven. Leave until cool enough to handle then carefully pull the skin away from the flesh. Roughly chop the skin into bite-sized pieces. Warm a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and fry the duck skin for a few minutes on each side until it’s beautifully crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate and set aside until you’re ready to serve. Reserve some of the fat in the pan.
While the duck is resting, make the sauce. Return the pan with the reserved duck fat to a medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté for about 10 minutes, until softened.
Meanwhile, tip the sugar into a deep-sided pan and warm over a low heat for a few minutes, swirling the pan to melt the sugar evenly. Increase the heat and allow the melted sugar to almost bubble. Watch it carefully as it turns golden at the edges and continue to cook to a rich, golden caramel colour.
Immediately and carefully pour in the wine vinegar, beef stock and soy sauce. As you do so, the caramel will seize a bit, but as it heats, it will melt, creating a smooth, sweet-sour sauce. Bring to the boil, stirring to combine. Add the cooked onion and garlic, plums and ginger. Lower the heat and simmer very gently for about an hour until the sauce has thickened and the plums are softened. Don’t let it catch on the bottom of the pan.
Stir in the lime zest and juice, then the honey and finally the Tabasco sauce to taste. Take off the heat and cool slightly, then tip into a jug blender or food processor and whiz until smooth, adding a splash of water to loosen slightly if needed. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a clean pan and warm gently.
Shred the duck by flaking the meat away from the bone, using a couple of forks to help pull the meat away. Keep the meat quite chunky, as you want some texture, and try not to leave any behind on the carcass. Put the meat into a bowl.
Add some of the plum sauce to the shredded duck, turning to make sure it’s well coated. Check the seasoning, adding a little salt and pepper if you think it needs it.
To serve, pile the shredded duck into steamed buns or onto warm wraps or pancakes and spoon on the plum sauce. Top with sliced chilli, cucumber and spring onions and sprinkle on the crispy fried duck skin. Delicious!
If you have any leftover sauce, refrigerate in a sealed jar for another time – it will be good for up to 10 days.
TEA-BRINED ROAST DUCK WITH SZECHUAN PEPPER
Tea and duck have a particularly good affinity. In this unusual recipe, steeping the duck in a tea-infused brine first helps to tenderise it and give it a depth of flavour, while the Chinese seasoning ingredients work beautifully with the rich duck meat.
SERVES 4
1 large duck, about 2.5kg
For the brine
2 litres water
75g loose-leaf Earl Grey tea
1 large piece of ginger, about 60g, roughly chopped
1 head of garlic, halved across the middle
100g salt
10 star anise
For the rub
2 tbsp Szechuan peppercorns
1 tbsp flaky sea salt
2 star anise
2 tsp ground ginger
2 tsp smoked paprika
For the glaze
100g clear honey
150ml dark soy sauce
First prepare the brine. Put the water, tea, ginger, garlic, salt and star anise into a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the salt. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.
Pour the cooled brine through a fine sieve into a container large enough to fit the duck snugly. Lower the duck into the brine, making sure it’s submerged, then cover with cling film. Refrigerate for 12 hours.
Remove the duck from the fridge, lift it out of the brine and pat dry with kitchen paper – you might want to do this over the sink. Set aside while you prepare the rub.
Preheat the oven to 140°C/Fan 120°C/Gas 1.
For the rub, heat a small, dry frying pan over a medium heat and add the Szechuan peppercorns, flaky sea salt and star anise. Toast in the pan, shaking occasionally, for 2–3 minutes until lightly golden and aromatic. Remove from the pan and leave to cool slightly.
Using an electric spice grinder or pestle and mortar, grind the toasted mix to a powder then pass through a sieve to remove the coarser bits. Tip the powdered spice mix into a small bowl and stir in the ground ginger and smoked paprika.
Rub the spice mixture all over the duck, using your hands to thoroughly massage it into the skin. Sit the duck, breast side up, on a wire rack placed in a large roasting tray. Roast in the oven for 2½ hours, basting from time to time.
While the duck is cooking, make the glaze. Pour the honey into a medium saucepan and warm over a gentle heat until it turns to a rich amber caramel. Carefully pour in the soy sauce and mix together. Remove from the heat.
Remove the duck from the oven and turn the oven setting up to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7. Using a pastry brush, baste the honey and soy glaze all over the duck.
Return the glazed duck to the oven and roast for a further 15–20 minutes, basting and brushing with the honey and soy glaze every 5–8 minutes. After this time, the duck will be lovely and moist and a dark, golden brown. Remove the duck from the oven and let it rest in a warm place for 20 minutes, covered lightly with foil.
Transfer the duck to a serving platter and serve with wilted bok choi and some steamed jasmine rice.
SPICED ROAST RUMP OF LAMB WITH CELERY & FETA
I love the flavour of a rump of lamb. It’s such a good cut of meat but you do have to use your teeth, and the fact that you need to chew it helps release all of those amazing flavours. The clean, almost botanical taste of the celery acts as an excellent counterbalance to the rich, succulent lamb.
SERVES 2
2 rumps of lamb, about 250g each
Vegetable oil, for cooking
For the rub
2 tsp fennel seeds
½ tsp cloves
½ tsp black peppercorns
2 tsp English mustard powder
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried rosemary
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the celery
½ head of celery (about 200g), trimmed
2–3 tbsp good extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely diced
2 red chillies, sliced into rings (seeds removed for less heat, if preferred)
½–1 tbsp yellow mustard seeds, to taste (more or less heat)
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp chopped dill
80g feta cheese, cubed
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4.
First make the rub for the lamb. Warm a small, dry frying pan over a gentle heat and add the fennel seeds, cloves and peppercorns. Heat for 2–3 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time, until the seeds are evenly toasted and aromatic. Let cool slightly, then grind to a fine powder using an electric spice grinder or pestle and mortar.
Tip the ground spices into a small bowl and add the mustard powder, garlic, thyme and rosemary and a good sprinkling of salt. Stir well to combine.
Sprinkle the spice rub onto the lamb rumps and massage into the meat with your hands, to coat thoroughly all over.
Drizzle a little oil into a large, ovenproof, non-stick frying pan and place over a high heat. Once it’s hot, add the lamb rumps and cook for about 8 minutes, turning frequently, so they’re nicely seared and have taken on plenty of colour. They should be evenly caramelised all over.
Transfer the frying pan to the oven and roast the rumps for 5–6 minutes for medium-rare, allowing a couple of minutes longer if you prefer your lamb cooked medium. Remove from the oven, lift the lamb onto a tray or plate, and leave to rest in a warm place, covered lightly with foil.
While the lamb is in the oven, prepare the celery. Remove the tough strings with a vegetable peeler, then slice on the diagonal into 1cm pieces.
Heat a non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and add 2 tbsp olive oil. Add the onion and sauté for about 10 minutes until softened, stirring from time to time. Add the celery slices, chillies and mustard seeds and continue to cook for about 5 minutes, until the celery is just softened.
Add any juices from the pan the lamb was cooked in. If it looks a little dry, add a splash more oil or water. Mix in the wine vinegar and chopped dill and season to taste with salt and pepper. Warm through for a minute or two, then stir in the feta cheese and remove from the heat.
Slice the lamb rumps thickly and arrange on warmed plates with the celery and feta alongside.
SLOW-ROASTED LAMB WITH HOT FENNEL RELISH
Lamb is such a versatile meat, it can handle bold flavours exceptionally well. In this recipe, toasted fennel seeds give the lamb shoulder a wonderful, aniseed-y crust. Roasting the joint on a ‘trivet’ of fennel and onion wedges, which is then transformed into a fantastic warm relish, makes even more of this classic and delicious pairing.
SERVES 6–8
1 shoulder of lamb, bone in, about 2–2.2kg
For the rub
4 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp black peppercorns
1 tbsp flaky sea salt
3 tbsp Dijon mustard
For roasting
3 fennel bulbs, quartered
2 onions, quartered
125ml white wine
75ml olive oil
For the relish
3 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 green chillies, chopped (seeds and all)
A small bunch of dill, chopped
½ bunch of mint, tough stalks removed, leaves chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the sauce
150ml lamb or beef stock
Preheat the oven to 150°C/Fan 130°C/Gas 2.
Place the lamb shoulder on a board and, using a sharp knife, score the skin all over, making sure you don’t go so deep that you cut into the flesh. Set aside while you prepare the rub.
Warm a small, dry frying pan over a medium heat and add the fennel seeds, peppercorns and sea salt. Heat for 2–3 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time, until the seeds are lightly toasted and aromatic. Remove from the pan and let cool slightly, then grind coarsely using an electric spice grinder or pestle and mortar.
Brush the mustard all over the surface of the lamb on both sides, to coat the meat evenly and generously. Sprinkle the fennel seed mixture on top of this, rubbing and patting it into the mustard coating with your hands.
Put the fennel and onion quarters into a large roasting tray, to cover the base. Pour in the white wine. Sit the lamb on top and drizzle over the olive oil. Roast for 4–5 hours, basting from time to time, until the meat is very tender and falling off the bone.
Transfer the lamb to a large plate, cover loosely with foil and leave to rest in a warm place while you make the relish.
For the relish, remove the fennel and onion from the roasting tray and place on a board. Roughly chop to a ‘salsa’ texture and place in a bowl with the wine vinegar, chillies and herbs. Give it a good stir and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Place the roasting tray containing all the lovely lamb juices over a high heat on the hob. Once the juices start to bubble away, pour in the stock to deglaze. Let bubble for 5–10 minutes or until reduced and thickened, whisking frequently. Strain through a sieve into a warmed jug.
Serve the lamb whole or flaked into pieces, with the hot fennel relish and sauce. I find this goes brilliantly with potato salad or pitta breads.
MARINATED LAMB RIBS WITH ROASTED ONIONS
Lamb ‘ribs’ are actually the breast of lamb, a cut which needs slow cooking to enjoy it at its tender best. Allow 3 to 4 hours’ marinating before cooking them too, to get as much flavour as possible going on. This is a great dish to cook in the oven and then finish on the barbecue for an extra whack of flavour.
SERVES 4–6
1 breast of lamb, bones in, about 1.5kg
6 onions, peeled with the root left on
10 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tbsp thyme leaves
For the marinade
4 tbsp black treacle
4 tbsp malt vinegar
2 tbsp soft light brown sugar
1 tbsp dried oregano
2 tsp salt
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 unwaxed lemon
For the purée and glaze
2 tbsp chopped salted anchovies
5 tbsp chopped mint leaves
1 tbsp malt vinegar
1 unwaxed lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
First prepare the marinade. In a small bowl, mix together the treacle, malt vinegar, brown sugar, oregano, salt and smoked paprika to combine. Finely grate in the zest of the lemon and stir together.
Place the lamb breast in a suitable plastic container or on a large platter. Pour the marinade over the lamb and use your hands to massage it in so it completely coats the ribs. Cover with a lid or cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge for 3–4 hours to allow the flavours to develop.
Preheat the oven to 150°C/Fan 130°C/Gas 2.
Line the base of a large roasting tin with foil. Quarter the onions vertically, through the root. Place the onion quarters and garlic cloves in the roasting tray and scatter over the thyme leaves. Cut the zested lemon (used for the marinade) in half and snuggle this in among the onions. Sit the lamb breast on top.
Lay a large second sheet of foil over the top of the lamb and scrunch the edges of the foil together to form a tightly sealed parcel, which encases the lamb. Be careful to make sure there aren’t any holes for the steam to escape. Roast in the oven for 4 hours.
Remove the lamb from the oven and leave it to rest in its foil parcel for 15 minutes. Open the foil and carefully remove the lamb. It should be lovely and tender and falling away from the bone. Set the ribs aside and keep warm while you prepare the onions for the purée and glaze.
Remove the cooked onions and garlic from the roasting tin and place in a bowl. Using a fork, crush them to a rough purée; it should be soft but still with a little texture. Stir through the chopped anchovies, mint and malt vinegar, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Set the roasted onion purée aside.
To make the glaze, strain the lamb cooking juices from the roasting tin through a sieve into a saucepan and place over a medium heat. Bring to the boil and let bubble to reduce and thicken for a few minutes to create a sticky glaze.
Grate the zest of the lemon over the ribs and transfer to a serving board or platter; the lemon will cut through the rich flavours and add an extra acidity and tangy flavour. Finally, coat the lamb ribs with the sticky glaze.
Cut the lamb into chunks. Serve with the roasted onion purée alongside, with some of the pan juices trickled over the top.
CHICKEN FRIED STEAK
I’m really fond of this simple Texan dish. Bashed-out sirloin steak is dredged in a spicy coating and fried until crisp, then served with a rich, creamy gravy. Just add mash and some buttery green beans for the ultimate comfort food…
SERVES 2–4
2 sirloin steaks, about 250g each and 1.5cm thick, trimmed of all fat
2 eggs
½ tsp cayenne pepper
Vegetable oil, for cooking
For the spice mix
4 tbsp plain flour
2 tsp salt
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp smoked paprika
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp dried thyme
For the sauce
1 tbsp plain flour
1 chicken stock cube
275ml whole milk
1 tbsp thyme leaves
1 tbsp freshly grated horseradish
Lemon juice, to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To garnish
Soft thyme leaves
Flaky sea salt
Lay a sheet of cling film on a board, place the steaks on top and cover with a second sheet of cling film. Using a rolling pin or meat mallet, bash out the steaks until they’re half their original thickness. Cut each piece in half, so you have 4 pieces.
In a bowl, beat the eggs with the cayenne pepper. For the spice mix, in a separate bowl, mix the flour, salt, garlic powder, spices, pepper and thyme together.
One by one, dip each steak into the egg, then into the spice mixture, to coat generously. Dip back into the egg, shaking off any excess, then back into the spice mix.
Warm a glug of oil in a medium non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add two of the steak pieces and fry until golden brown and crispy. This will take about 1½ minutes per side for medium-rare. Allow an extra minute for medium, but don’t cook for too long, or they won’t crisp up. Transfer the cooked steaks to a warmed plate and keep warm while you cook the other two. Let them all rest for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Pour off any excess fat, keeping around 1 tbsp juices in the pan. Return to the heat, add the flour and whisk constantly until it is nicely browned, as this will give the gravy a great flavour. Crumble in the chicken stock cube and once it’s dissolved, gradually pour in the milk, whisking all the time to keep the sauce smooth.
Lower the heat and simmer gently for 4–5 minutes until thickened. Season to taste with salt and pepper, stir through the thyme and horseradish, and finish with a squeeze of lemon juice to sharpen the flavour.
Spoon the gravy onto warmed plates and arrange the chicken fried steaks on top. Scatter with thyme and a little flaky sea salt and serve at once.
DRY-RUB BEEF RIBS
Slow cooking short ribs is the only way to go – the connective tissue breaks down, giving way to a juicy and tender piece of beef which is addictively delicious. The spicy, herby dry rub adds great flavour and the sticky dark glaze helps to create a crust. This is the perfect thing to tuck into on a hot day, with a few cold beers.
SERVES 6
2.2kg short ribs of beef on the bone
6 tbsp prepared English mustard
For the rub
2 tbsp flaky sea salt
1 tbsp smoked paprika
1 tbsp garlic powder
1 tbsp celery salt
1 tbsp dried thyme
1 tbsp dried sage
½ tbsp freshly ground black pepper
½ tbsp chilli powder
For the glaze
100ml apple juice
2 tbsp golden syrup
2 tbsp black treacle
2 tbsp clear honey
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 beef stock cube
Preheat the oven to 140°C/Fan 120°C/Gas 1.
First prepare the rub. Place all of the ingredients in a small bowl and stir to combine.
Using a pastry brush or spoon, smear the mustard all over the short ribs, to coat them generously. Scatter the dry rub over the mustard and use your hands to pat it on evenly.
Place the pieces of meat in a large roasting tin then roast, uncovered, for 5 hours, basting several times during cooking with the juices in the tin.
When the roasting time is almost up, prepare the glaze. Place the apple juice, golden syrup, black treacle, honey and Worcestershire sauce in a bowl and crumble in the stock cube. Whisk to combine.
Remove the roasting tin from the oven and pour the glaze all over the beef. Return to the oven and roast for a further 45 minutes, basting every 10–15 minutes with the juices.
Now turn the oven up to 160°C/Fan 140°C/Gas 3. Roast the beef for a final 30–40 minutes, until it’s deep golden brown and the glaze is deliciously sticky. The beef will be very tender, falling off the bone and juicy.
Remove from the oven, brush with the cooking juices and leave to rest in a warm place for 20–30 minutes, covered lightly with foil.
Carve the beef into generous slices and serve with the cooking juices spooned over.
BEEF & BEER LOAF
Beef and beer go so well together – it’s one of the great combinations – and they’re fantastic in this tasty version of meatloaf. In a final flourish, I blowtorch the surface right at the end to give it a distinctive charred and toasty flavour. You could also use this mixture to make beef sausages, or even serve it as a cold beef terrine, with mustard and pickles.
SERVES 8
Vegetable oil, for cooking
1 large onion, diced
450g coarsely minced beef brisket, chilled
450g coarsely minced beef rump, chilled
180g coarsely minced beef fat, chilled
140g fresh breadcrumbs
140ml strong ale, chilled
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 tbsp malt extract
1 tbsp prepared English mustard
1 tbsp thyme leaves
1 tbsp flaky sea salt
1 tsp soft light brown sugar
1 tsp cracked black pepper
1 tsp cayenne pepper
For the glaze
1½ tbsp black treacle
1 tbsp prepared English mustard
1 tbsp beef stock
½ tbsp red wine vinegar
To garnish
1 tbsp soft thyme leaves
Heat a glug of oil in a medium, non-stick frying pan over a medium-low heat and add the onion. Cook gently, stirring from time to time, for around 10–15 minutes until soft and translucent. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
Put all the chilled minced beef and beef fat into a large bowl. Add the cooled onion, breadcrumbs, ale, garlic, malt extract, mustard, thyme, salt, sugar, pepper and cayenne. Using your hands, mix thoroughly until well combined and starting to firm up – this may take 5 minutes or so. The more you work it, the better it will hold together on cooking.
Lay a large rectangle of foil on a flat surface. Trickle a little oil into the centre and rub it all over the foil – this will prevent the loaf sticking during cooking.
Place the beef mixture in the middle of the foil and spread it out to create a sausage shape that will fit into a 1kg loaf tin. Make sure you form the mixture very tightly so that it has no air pockets. Use the foil to help you roll up the beef ‘sausage’, ensuring it’s packed tightly and completely encased. Wrap in two more layers of foil. Secure the ends by scrunching them up tightly.
Place the wrapped beef loaf in the fridge and leave it to rest and firm up for at least 1 hour, or overnight if that’s more convenient for you.
When you’re ready to cook the loaf, preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Place the foil-wrapped loaf in a 1kg loaf tin, pressing it in tightly so the meat mixture goes right into the corners. (Alternatively, simply place the foil-wrapped ‘sausage’ in a roasting tin.) Roast for about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, prepare the glaze. Put all the ingredients into a small saucepan and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat. Lower the heat slightly and simmer to reduce until thickened to a sticky glaze. Remove from the heat; keep warm.
To test whether the loaf is cooked, insert a meat thermometer into the centre; it should register an internal temperature of at least 70°C. It may need an extra 5 minutes or so.
Once cooked, set aside in a warm place to rest for 10 minutes, then carefully remove the foil. Use a cook’s blowtorch to give the loaf a blast so it’s nicely charred and has a lovely shiny deep brown colour all over. If you don’t have a blowtorch, you could flash the loaf under a hot grill for a minute or two.
Brush the beef loaf with the glaze and scatter over the thyme leaves. Serve carved into thick slices, with some creamy mash on the side if you like.
CHOLENT
This classic Jewish dish of beef, beans and barley is the ultimate slow-cooked beef, taking 12–15 hours! It evolved from the religious law prohibiting the lighting of fires on the Sabbath. Traditionally, the pot was brought to the boil before dusk on Friday then left to simmer away so there would be a hot meal the following day. You can cook it all day or overnight and it reheats beautifully. Filling, warming and full of flavour, it’s a wonderful family dish.
SERVES 6–8
Vegetable oil, for cooking
1.2kg stewing beef, short rib or brisket, cut into large pieces
8 carrots, halved
8–10 small turnips, peeled and halved
2 large onions, diced, skins reserved
15 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 tbsp clear honey
1 tbsp smoked paprika
1 tbsp salt
2 tsp cracked black pepper
200g dried butter beans, soaked in water for 1 hour then drained
100g pearl barley
A small bunch of rosemary, tied with kitchen string
About 1.5 litres water
Preheat the oven to 120°C/Fan 100°C/Gas ½.
Heat a glug of oil in a large, heavy-based flameproof casserole (that has a tight-fitting lid) over a high heat. Brown the beef well in batches all over; you want it to take on plenty of colour, so don’t overcrowd the pan. Once browned, remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside while you colour the rest of the beef, adding a little more oil to the pan if necessary.
Add the carrots to the pan and sauté until well caramelised all over and sticky. You want to add plenty of colour and flavour to the vegetables. Remove the carrots from the pan and set aside with the beef. Sauté the turnips in the pan, in the same way, then remove and set aside.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the onions and garlic to the pan. Cook, turning frequently, for around 8–10 minutes until they are softened and well coloured. Stir in the honey, paprika, salt and pepper and cook for 1 minute.
Return the beef and browned vegetables to the pan and stir well. Add the butter beans, pearl barley and rosemary, and give it all a good stir again. Pour in just enough water to cover the meat, then increase the heat and bring to the boil. Add the onion skins (these lend colour). Put the lid on the casserole and cook in the oven for 12–15 hours.
Check on the cholent a couple of times during cooking, giving it a stir and topping up the liquid if necessary with boiling water from the kettle so the meat is just covered. By the end of cooking, the meat should be very tender and falling apart. Take out the rosemary and onion skins. Serve the cholent ladled into warmed bowls.
MEATBALLS IN CHUNKY TREACLE GRAVY
These meatballs are so easy to make and full of rich flavours – everyone loves them! Finished off with a dark and delicious gravy, the humble meatball is taken to a whole new level. They’re even better the next day, too. Serve with spaghetti or simple boiled rice and a scattering of grated full-flavoured Cheddar if you like, or just let the full-on flavour of the treacle gravy do the work.
SERVES 6–8
Vegetable oil, for cooking
2 onions, finely diced
1.2kg minced beef or pork
80g dry breadcrumbs
3 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp cracked black pepper
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp dried sage
1 tsp ground allspice
2 tsp salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
For the gravy
2 red onions, diced
2 red peppers, cored, deseeded and diced
2 red chillies, diced (seeds and all if you like the heat)
8 garlic cloves, finely grated
100ml malt vinegar
1 tbsp brown sugar
50g black treacle
75ml Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp smoked paprika
600ml beef stock
100ml stout
4 tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat a splash of oil in a non-stick frying pan over a medium-low heat and add the onions. Fry for around 10 minutes, stirring from time to time, until softened. Leave to cool.
Transfer the cooled onions to a large bowl and add the mince, breadcrumbs, mustard, pepper, oregano, sage, allspice, salt and eggs. Mix together, using your hands, until thoroughly combined. The more you work the mixture, the better the meatballs will hold together on cooking. Cover the bowl with cling film and chill for at least an hour, or overnight.
Divide the mixture into 16–20 even-sized pieces. Form into balls and roll each one between your hands to shape neatly. Place the balls on a plate or tray, cover with cling film and refrigerate for a further 30 minutes. Chilling the meatballs helps prevent them breaking up during cooking.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/Fan 170°C/Gas 5.
Remove the meatballs from the fridge, place them in a roasting tray and roast in the oven for 25 minutes.
While the meatballs are cooking, make the gravy. Heat a splash of oil in a large, non-stick, deep sauté pan over a medium-low heat. Add the onions, peppers, chillies and garlic and fry for 10 minutes, stirring from time to time, until softened.
Turn up the heat, pour in the malt vinegar and add the sugar, stirring to deglaze and dissolve the sugar. Simmer until the mixture is well reduced to a sticky glaze.
Stir in the treacle, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and paprika. Pour in the beef stock and stout and bring to the boil over a high heat. Lower the heat and simmer gently until the gravy is reduced by about a third.
Meanwhile, skin the tomatoes (see Crispy Cheesy Tostadas) and roughly chop them. Once the meatballs are cooked, remove them from the oven and set aside.
Add the meatballs and chopped tomatoes to the reduced gravy. Give it a stir, being careful not to bash the meatballs, and continue to simmer gently over a low heat for a further 10 minutes, until the sauce has reduced slightly. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary. Remove from the heat.
Serve the meatballs with the rich treacle gravy spooned over.
DEEP-PAN MEAT FEAST PIZZA
Thin-crust pizzas might be more fashionable now, but there’s something really satisfying about a deep-pan pizza if it’s done well. Get a great dough and a zingy tomato sauce working together, and you’ve got the perfect base to build on – you can really give your imagination free rein. This recipe makes more tomato sauce than you’ll need here, but it keeps well in the fridge for a few days and you can use it for your next batch of pizzas, or as a sauce for pasta.
SERVES 2
For the dough
750g ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for oiling
1 tbsp caster sugar
2 tsp salt
7g sachet fast-action dried yeast
60ml warm milk
375 ml warm water
For the tomato sauce
400g tin chopped tomatoes
2 tbsp tomato purée
4 tsp white wine vinegar
1 tbsp soft light brown sugar
½ tbsp dried oregano
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the beef layer
250g minced beef
1 tsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp thyme leaves
1 garlic clove, finely grated
For the topping
150g sliced garlic sausage
2 small red onions, thinly sliced
2 small red chillies, sliced (seeds and all, if you like the heat)
10 thin slices of pancetta
2 balls of buffalo mozzarella, about 125g each
50g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
To finish
A bunch of basil, leaves picked from the stems
To make the dough, put all the ingredients into a freestanding mixer with the dough hook fitted and mix until combined. Continue to knead in the mixer for about 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth, silky and elastic. You may need to add an extra 1 tbsp water if the dough feels a little tight.
Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled large bowl and cover with cling film. Leave to rise in a warm place until it’s doubled in size – this should take about an hour or so.
While the dough is rising, make the tomato sauce. Put the tomatoes, tomato purée, wine vinegar, sugar, oregano and garlic in a medium saucepan. Give it a good stir and bring to the boil over a medium-high heat. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring from time to time, until the sauce is reduced by half. Season to taste with salt and pepper, take off the heat and set aside to cool completely.
Meanwhile, prepare the beef layer. Place a medium, non-stick frying pan over a high heat. When hot, add the mince and dry-fry for 10–15 minutes, stirring frequently, until dry, brown and crispy. Using a slotted spoon, remove the mince from the pan, drain off any excess fat and transfer to a bowl.
Wipe out the frying pan with kitchen paper and return it to a medium-high heat. Add the fennel seeds and rattle them around in the pan for a couple of minutes until fragrant and toasted. Add them to the mince along with the thyme leaves and garlic. Season to taste with salt and pepper and let cool.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6. Lightly oil two 30cm deep-sided, non-stick ovenproof frying pans, or a shallow rectangular oven tray, about 32 x 42cm and 7cm deep. Wipe away any excess oil with kitchen paper.
Once the dough has risen, turn it out onto a lightly floured surface, knock back and knead for a couple of minutes.
If you’re using two pans, divide the dough in half and use a floured rolling pin to roll each portion into a round, about 1cm thick. Alternatively, roll the dough into a rectangle to fit the oven tray. Push the pizza dough into each pan, or the tray, pressing it up the edges and moulding it with your hands to fit the base and sides.
Spread a layer of tomato sauce over each pizza (about 4–6 tbsp for the round pizzas, 6–8 tbsp for the rectangular one), using a spoon or spatula to distribute it evenly. Don’t overdo it or the dough will become soggy (keep any excess tomato sauce for another occasion).
Scatter the fried minced beef evenly over each pizza and arrange the slices of garlic sausage on top. Add the onion and chilli slices, then the pancetta. Tear the mozzarella balls into pieces and arrange evenly over the pizza(s). Finally, sprinkle on the Parmesan cheese and you’re ready to go!
Bake for 25–30 minutes, until the pancetta is cooked, the cheese is melted and bubbling, and the edges of the dough are lovely and crisp.
Remove the pizza(s) from the oven and allow to stand for a few minutes before scattering over the basil leaves. Remove the pizza(s) from the pan and cut into wedges. Serve at once.
OX CHEEKS WITH HORSERADISH
Ox cheeks are full of flavour and have an amazing unctious, melting texture when cooked slowly. In this recipe, I gently steam the meat in some stock and stout, which gives it a real depth of rich, dark tastes. The zingy noisette dressing cuts through the richness of the ox cheeks. To give it an extra layer, I include some smoked butter but if you can’t find it, simply up the quantity of ordinary butter – there are so many great flavours in this dish, it’ll still be fantastic.
SERVES 4
4 ox cheeks, about 400g each, trimmed of sinew
Vegetable oil, for cooking
3 banana shallots, thinly sliced, skins reserved
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
350ml beef stock
250ml stout
A small bunch of thyme
2 tbsp malt vinegar
2 tsp black treacle
A piece of fresh horseradish, about 5cm long, peeled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the rub
2 tbsp English mustard powder
2 tbsp flaky sea salt
2 tbsp soft light brown sugar
1 tbsp hot smoked paprika
1 tbsp cracked black pepper
For the noisette dressing
75g butter
20g smoked butter
Juice of 1 lime
3 tbsp chopped pitted dates
2 tbsp capers
First prepare the rub. Put all the ingredients into a small bowl and stir to combine.
Place the ox cheeks in a plastic container or on a large plate and dredge the rub evenly over the cheeks, using your hands to massage it in and ensure they are well coated. Cover with cling film and refrigerate for 4–8 hours to allow the flavours to develop and intensify.
Preheat the oven to 140°C/Fan 120°C/Gas 1.
Heat a glug of oil in a large, heavy-based flameproof casserole over a high heat. Season the ox cheeks with salt and pepper and sear them in the pan for a few minutes on each side, until they are dark all over. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Reduce the heat under the pan to medium-low and add the sliced shallots and garlic. Cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring frequently, until they are softened and have taken on some colour. Meanwhile, tie the thyme sprigs and shallot skins into bundles with kitchen string. Pour the beef stock and stout into the casserole and bring to the boil.
Once the stock is bubbling, add the ox cheeks and drop the thyme and shallot skin bundles into the pan. Put the lid on and transfer the casserole to the oven to braise for 4 hours.
Remove the pan from the oven and lift out the ox cheeks. Set aside on a tray or plate, cover with foil and keep warm.
Return the pan to a high heat and allow the sauce to bubble until thickened and reduced to a rich glaze. Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a clean, large pan and stir in the malt vinegar and treacle. Heat through.
Return the ox cheeks to the pan. Using a fine grater, grate about 2 tbsp of the horseradish (save a little for the noisette) on top of the cheeks and use a spoon to roll them around in the mixture to absorb all the lovely flavours. Gently warm through.
For the noisette dressing, melt the butter and smoked butter together in a medium saucepan. Heat until it turns a rich, nutty brown, then add the lime juice, dates and capers. Grate in the remaining horseradish, season with salt and pepper and swirl the pan to combine all the flavours. Remove from the heat.
Spoon the ox cheeks and sauce onto warmed plates and trickle over some of the noisette dressing. Serve immediately.
VENISON CHOPS WITH CRANBERRIES & RED WINE
I love venison. It is packed with flavour and makes a tasty alternative to beef. However, you need to take care when frying it, as its very low fat content gives it a tendency to dry out if at all overcooked. Look for thick chops to ensure they stay nice and moist. If you find venison chops hard to track down, this recipe works brilliantly with pork chops too, or even lamb. Cranberries have a great acidity that goes very well with game, and also pork and lamb. I like to serve it with mash to soak up the delicious sauce, but tagliatelle goes well too.
SERVES 4
4 large, bone-in venison chops, at least 2.5cm thick, or 4 bone-in pork or lamb loin chops (similarly thick)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the marinade
½ bunch of thyme
6 juniper berries, crushed
2 bay leaves
Zest of ½ unwaxed orange, finely pared with a vegetable peeler
400ml red wine
For the cranberry sauce
Vegetable oil, for frying
3 banana shallots, finely diced
2 large portobello mushrooms, finely diced
75g cranberry jelly
Juice of 1 orange
50ml red wine vinegar
200ml beef stock
150g cranberries
30g butter
To finish
Flaky sea salt
First marinate the chops. Place them in a plastic container and scatter over the thyme sprigs, juniper berries, bay leaves and orange zest. Pour over the red wine, making sure the chops are fully submerged. Cover with cling film or a lid and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 3–4 hours, ideally overnight.
Remove the chops from the marinade and set aside. Strain the marinade through a sieve into a jug, and reserve for the sauce.
To make the sauce, heat a splash of oil in a medium, deep sauté pan, or a saucepan, over a medium heat. Add the shallots and mushrooms and cook for about 8–10 minutes, stirring from time to time, until they are softened.
Stir in the cranberry jelly, then pour in the orange juice and wine vinegar and stir to combine. Turn up the heat and let the liquid bubble until most of it has evaporated and the sautéed vegetables are just glazed with the glossy sauce.
Pour in the reserved marinade and the beef stock. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat right down and simmer very gently for around 10–15 minutes, until the sauce is just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. You may need to skim it from time to time to remove any scum that rises to the surface.
Stir in the cranberries and simmer for 4–5 minutes, or a little longer if you think the sauce needs to reduce down a bit more. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
While the sauce is on the go, fry the chops. Heat a glug of oil in a large, non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Season the chops with salt and pepper. Once the oil is hot, add the chops and cook until they are nicely coloured and golden brown. Allow 2–3 minutes on each side for medium-rare venison chops. If you’re cooking pork chops, allow 5–6 minutes each side. For lamb chops allow 4–5 minutes each side.
Just before the chops are done, add the butter to the pan and, once melted, use it to baste the meat. Remove the pan from the heat and transfer the chops to a warmed plate. Leave to rest in a warm place for 5–10 minutes, covered lightly in foil.
Serve the venison chops on warmed plates with the cranberry sauce spooned over and sprinkled with a little flaky sea salt.
VENISON CHILLI
I love a regular beef chilli, but this venison version is something else! Using a combination of diced haunch and venison mince gives the dish a real depth of flavour and a great texture. Although it takes a bit more time, the recipe is pretty straightforward and the result is well worth it. Finishing the rich dish with dark chocolate, red wine and a zing of lime perks it up beautifully.
SERVES 6–8
For the venison haunch
Vegetable oil, for cooking
1kg venison haunch, diced
2 carrots, halved
4 celery sticks, cut in half
1 onion, quartered
Bouquet garni (sprig each of thyme and rosemary and a bay leaf, tied together with kitchen string)
2 garlic cloves, sliced
1 litre dark rich beef or venison stock
For the chilli
2 tbsp cumin seeds
2 tbsp coriander seeds
2 tsp chilli powder
2 tsp cracked black pepper
400g minced venison
Vegetable oil, for cooking
2 onions, diced
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
150g Milano salami or chorizo, diced
400g tin kidney beans, drained and rinsed
150ml red wine
Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lime
75g dark chocolate (70% cocoa solids), grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
Crème fraîche
A few gratings of dark chocolate
Preheat the oven to 140°C/Fan 120°C/Gas 1.
Heat a glug of oil in a large, heavy-based flameproof casserole over a high heat. Sear the diced venison, in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan, for a few minutes until well coloured on all sides. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside in a bowl.
Once all the meat is browned, lower the heat, add the carrots to the pan and sauté until they have taken on plenty of colour. Now add the celery, onion and bouquet garni and fry for a few minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two.
Return the meat to the casserole, pour in the stock and bring to the boil. Put the lid on and transfer to the oven. Braise for 3 hours until the meat is succulent and deliciously tender.
Remove the meat from the oven and let cool slightly. Place a colander over a bowl. Tip the venison braise into the colander to strain off the stock. Reserve the stock and separate the meat from the vegetables. Transfer the meat to a bowl and set aside. Discard the vegetables and bouquet garni.
For the chilli, place a small frying pan over a medium heat and add the cumin and coriander seeds. Toast for 2–3 minutes, rattling the pan, until fragrant. Let cool slightly, then grind to a powder using an electric spice grinder or pestle and mortar. Tip into a bowl and mix in the chilli powder and black pepper.
Heat a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the minced venison and dry-fry for about 20–25 minutes, stirring frequently, until the mince is nicely browned and has a tasty, nutty flavour. It should be very crispy. Drain the mince in a colander to remove any excess fat and set aside.
While the mince is cooking, heat a dash of oil in a large, deep, non-stick sauté pan over a medium heat and fry the onions and garlic for 8–10 minutes until softened. Stir in the ground spices and cook for 2–3 minutes to release their flavour.
Stir in the cooked mince and salami or chorizo. Cook for 2–3 minutes then pour in the reserved stock from the braised haunch. Add the kidney beans, give it a stir and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and reduce the sauce until it’s thick and stew-like, about 20 minutes.
Stir in the venison haunch and heat through for 5 minutes. Pour in the red wine, bring to the boil and add the lime zest. Lower the heat, season to taste and warm for a few minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the chocolate.
Serve the venison chilli on warmed plates, with a dollop of crème fraîche and a little more chocolate grated over the top.
GREEN CHILLI CON CARNE
I’ve always been drawn to the raw flavour and heat you get from green chillies and green peppers and they’re really great in this dish – mixing them with loads of fresh mint and lime makes for a lively and tasty combination. Unlike a regular chilli con carne, this one is dry in style and it’s quite quick to make.
SERVES 6–8
1kg minced pork
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tsp dried thyme
2 onions, diced
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
2 green peppers, cored, deseeded and diced
8 green chillies, chopped (seeds and all)
6 ripe tomatoes
150ml water
½ bunch of spring onions, trimmed and chopped
2 tsp salt, or to taste
1 tsp cracked black pepper
A bunch of mint, stalks removed, leaves shredded
Finely grated zest and juice of 2 unwaxed limes
To serve
Wholemilk yoghurt
Tortillas
Heat a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium-high heat. When it’s hot, add the minced pork, cumin seeds and thyme and dry-fry for 10–15 minutes, breaking up the meat and stirring frequently, until it’s dry, browned and crispy.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the browned spicy meat to a bowl. Drain off any excess fat, keeping a little in the pan to cook the vegetables.
Return the pan to a medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook for about 10 minutes, stirring from time to time, until softened. Stir in the green peppers and chillies and cook for a further few minutes, then return the browned meat to the pan. Give everything a good stir and cook for another 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, deseed and roughly chop the tomatoes.
Pour the water into the pan, add the tomatoes and bring to the boil. Turn the heat to its lowest setting and let the chilli bubble away, uncovered, for around 15–25 minutes, until a lot of the liquid has evaporated. You want the mixture to be juicy but not too liquid and saucy.
Stir in the spring onions, salt and pepper. Finally, stir through the mint, and the lime zest and juice and allow to bubble for a couple of minutes longer. Take off the heat and leave to stand for 10 minutes to let the flavours develop before serving.
Spoon the chilli into warmed bowls and serve with plenty of yoghurt and tortillas, with a crisp green salad on the side if you like.
PULLED PORK SHOULDER
Over the past couple of years, this has become a very fashionable way to cook and serve pork and it’s not hard to see why – it’s easy and it’s delicious! Seek out the best quality meat you can find and make sure it’s on the bone – this helps to keep the meat moist and prevents too much shrinkage during the slow cooking process. In my version, I whack up the flavour by covering the pork in a lush rub at the beginning and adding a rich gravy at the end.
SERVES 6–8
1 pork shoulder, skin removed, bone in, about 3kg
For the rub
1 tbsp black peppercorns
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
½ tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp smoked paprika
2 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tbsp dried oregano
1 tbsp dried sage
1 tbsp dried thyme
150g soft light brown sugar
1 tbsp salt
For the gravy
500g minced pork
2 onions, diced
6 garlic cloves, finely grated
100ml red wine vinegar
50g demerara sugar
200ml apple juice
2 tbsp black treacle
1 litre beef stock
75g Dijon mustard
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 tsp Tabasco sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve (optional)
Buns
First make the rub. Heat a small frying pan over a low heat and add the peppercorns and fennel, coriander and cumin seeds. Heat gently for a few minutes, shaking the pan to toast evenly, until the seeds are lightly golden and fragrant. Remove from the pan and let cool slightly, then grind to a fine powder using an electric spice grinder or pestle and mortar. Tip into a large bowl and stir in the remaining spices, herbs, sugar and salt.
Use your hands to massage the rub all over the pork shoulder, making sure it’s completely coated. Wrap it in cling film and leave to stand for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 150°C/Fan 130°C/Gas 2.
Remove the cling film from the pork and place the shoulder on a wire rack set inside a large roasting tin. Roast for 4–5 hours, until the meat can be completed pulled away from the bone easily. It will be very soft and tender, but it will look dark and burnt – don’t worry, it won’t taste burnt I promise! Leave the pork to rest, loosely covered in foil, for around an hour.
In the meantime, make the gravy. Heat a large, non-stick frying pan or deep sauté pan over a medium-high heat. When hot, add the minced pork and dry-fry, stirring frequently, for around 10–15 minutes, until the meat is dry, brown and very crispy. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mince from the pan to a bowl.
Return the pan to a medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook for about 10 minutes until softened, stirring from time to time. Add the wine vinegar and sugar, bring to the boil and let bubble to reduce to a glaze.
Once thickened, pour in the apple juice and treacle and let bubble until the sauce has once again reduced to a glaze and is lovely and syrupy.
Return the crispy mince to the pan, pour on the beef stock and bring back to the boil. Lower the heat and let bubble to reduce by half. Stir in the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and some salt and pepper. Give it a good stir and take off the heat.
Transfer the pork to a board and flake or ‘pull’ from the bone by prising the meat apart using a couple of forks. Place the shredded pork in a large bowl and gradually stir in the gravy a little at a time until it’s coated nicely. You may not need to use it all (save any remaining gravy for another time). Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.
Serve the pulled pork in buns for the ultimate sandwich, or with a crisp salad if you prefer.
Pork & Feta Burger with Cucumber & Olive Salsa >
PORK & FETA BURGER WITH CUCUMBER & OLIVE SALSA
I love pork and I love burgers! Pork belly is a perfect cut for mince as it has a great meat-to-fat ratio and it takes on other flavours beautifully. The salsa has a summery, vibrant flavour but these burgers are good simply with cheese and ketchup.
MAKES 6
800g minced belly pork
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 green chillies, finely chopped (seeds and all)
½ tsp cracked black pepper
20 mint leaves, finely chopped
40g dried breadcrumbs
2 shallots, finely diced
70g green olives, pitted and chopped
½ tsp salt
150g feta cheese, crumbled
Olive oil, for frying
For the salsa
1 cucumber
4 spring onions, trimmed
½ bunch of dill, stalks removed, leaves finely chopped
3 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp puréed green olives
1 green chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
Grated zest and juice of 1 small unwaxed lemon
To serve
Burger or brioche buns
Slices of cheese (optional)
Tomato ketchup (optional)
To make the burgers, put all of the ingredients, except the oil, in a large bowl and mix thoroughly until well combined. Work together with your hands until the mixture forms a firm ball. Divide into 6 equal portions, shape into patties and place on a tray. Chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes, or overnight if it’s more convenient, to allow time for the flavours to develop.
Prepare the salsa about 20 minutes before you intend to serve the burgers. Peel the cucumber, halve lengthways and scoop out the seeds. Finely dice the cucumber flesh and place in a bowl. Thinly slice the spring onions and add to the cucumber along with all the other the ingredients. Toss to combine and set aside to allow the flavours to mingle.
When you’re ready to cook the burgers, brush them with olive oil. Heat up your grill, barbecue or frying pan. You don’t want to cook them on too fierce a heat, so turn the grill or pan down to medium, or cook the burgers towards the cooler edges of the barbecue.
Gently colour the burgers for 4–5 minutes on one side then flip them over and cook for a further 2 minutes or until cooked right through. Remove the burgers from the heat and leave to rest on a warmed plate for a couple of minutes.
Serve the burgers with the salsa sandwiched in buns, with cheese and/or tomato ketchup if you like.
One-Pot Ham, Sausage & Prawn Rice >
ONE-POT HAM, SAUSAGE & PRAWN RICE
The trick to making this simple, fresh and colourful dish exceptional is layering the flavours one over another. Cooking and colouring the vegetables one batch at a time may seem like a bit of a pain, but the end result is well worth the graft. It’s a real one-pot wonder!
SERVES 4–6
½ cinnamon stick
½ tsp black peppercorns
2 cloves
2 bay leaves
Vegetable oil, for cooking
2 onions, diced
4 celery sticks (tough strings removed with a vegetable peeler), thinly sliced
1 green pepper, cored, deseeded and diced
1 fennel bulb, tough core removed, diced
200g cooked, smoked ham, cut into 2cm dice
200g garlic sausage, cut into 2cm dice
6 plum tomatoes, diced
4 garlic cloves, finely grated
2 tsp salt
2 tsp cayenne pepper
½ bunch of thyme, tied with kitchen string
175g basmati rice, rinsed
350ml chicken stock
250g peeled large raw prawns (tail shell intact), deveined
2 tbsp chopped parsley leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Wrap the cinnamon, peppercorns, cloves and bay leaves in a small piece of muslin and tie into a bundle with kitchen string.
Heat a splash of oil in a large, heavy-based flameproof casserole over a high heat. Add the onions and fry, stirring frequently, for 5–7 minutes until nicely browned. Remove and set aside.
Fry the celery, green pepper and fennel in the pan in separate batches, making sure they take on plenty of colour. You may need to add a dash more oil in between batches. Ensuring all the vegetables are beautifully caramelised helps to enrich the flavour of the finished dish, so don’t skimp at this stage.
Once you’ve sautéed all of the vegetables and set them aside, add the ham to the pan and fry quickly to brown, then remove from the pan. Add the garlic sausage to the pan and sear on all sides until nicely browned too.
Return all of the sautéed vegetables and the ham to the pan. Give it a good stir then add the tomatoes, garlic, salt, cayenne, bunch of thyme and spice bag. Now add the rice and give everything a good stir to coat the rice in all the lovely flavours.
Pour in the stock and bring to the boil over a high heat. Lower the heat, cover and simmer very gently for 20–25 minutes until the rice has absorbed the liquid and is cooked through.
Add the prawns, give it a stir and cook for 4–5 minutes, just until the prawns have turned bright pink and are cooked through. Remove the spice bag and bunch of thyme. Scatter in the chopped parsley and taste for seasoning, adding more salt and pepper if needed. Serve immediately, in warmed bowls.