Citron, known as cédrat in French and cedro in Italian, resembles a very large lemon. In ancient times, the fruit was known as Persian apple because the Romans thought it originated in Persia. Under the citron’s knobby yellow skin is a very thick white pith, which is the main attraction of the fruit rather than its dry pulp. In Sicily, the rind is candied and used in sweets. In Iran and Pakistan, the rind is made into jam, while in India it is pickled.
This unusual Tunisian confection needs to be eaten within a couple of weeks of making it. It has no hint of bitterness and is delightful served with cottage cheese, other fresh white cheese, or yogurt. I have adapted this recipe from Zeinab Kaak’s book La Sofra: Cuisine Tunisienne Traditionelle. Use three 1-pt [480-ml] sterilized jars (see page 129), and be sure to allow plenty of time for soaking the citrons.
MAKES 6 CUPS [1.9 KG]
23/4 lb [1.3 kg] citrons
4 cups [800 g] organic cane sugar
Soak the citrons in enough water to cover for 2 days, changing the water each day.
Peel the citrons, removing only the outer yellow layer, and discard the skin (or slice it in thin strips, dry, and use in other recipes). Remove the white pith and grate it finely. Discard the citron pulp. Put the grated pith in a medium saucepan and add 21/2 cups [600 ml] water. Place the pan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and let simmer for about 30 minutes.
Add the sugar and bring back to a boil; lower the heat again and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover the pan with a clean kitchen towel, and let cool. Pour the jelly into sterilized jam jars. Seal the jars and refrigerate. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
