SOUPS
MEXICAN GAZPACHO
Serves 6
Gazpacho is a Spanish soup, of course, not Mexican, but the ingredients—luscious, ripe red tomatoes, onions, garlic, and peppers—are shared by both countries. One day I had the idea to roast the vegetables in a comal Mexican-style before puréeing them to make gazpacho: The result was a revelation. I think you’ll be amazed by the complex, charred, smoky flavors that result from roasting the vegetables.
2 corn tortillas
8 large ripe red plum tomatoes (about 2 pounds)
1 red bell pepper
1 poblano chili or green bell pepper
1 medium white onion, quartered
1 to 2 jalapeño peppers
4 cloves garlic, peeled
4 scallions, white part trimmed, green part finely chopped
1 cucumber, peeled and seeded
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, or as needed
¼ cup finely chopped cilantro
salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 lime wedges
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the tortillas in half, then crosswise into ¼-inch strips. Arrange the strips on a baking sheet in a single layer. Bake until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool; the tortillas will crisp as they cool.
2. In a comal or cast-iron frying pan or under the broiler, roast the tomatoes, red pepper, poblano, onion, jalapeño, garlic, and scallions whites until nicely browned on all sides: 8 to 10 minutes for the tomatoes, peppers, and onions; 4 to 6 minutes for the jalapeños, garlic, and scallion whites. (Turn with tongs.) Transfer the vegetables to a plate and let cool. Cut open the pepper and chilies and remove the veins and seeds, reserving the juices.
3. Combine the roasted vegetables, cucumber, olive oil, vinegar, and cilantro in a blender and purée until smooth. Add water to thin the gazpacho to pourable consistency (1 to 2 cups). Add salt, pepper, and more vinegar (if needed); the gazpacho should be highly seasoned.
4. Pour or ladle the gazpacho into bowls. Garnish each with the chopped scallion greens and crisped tortilla slivers. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing.
127 CALORIES PER SERVING; 4 G PROTEIN; 6 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 20 G CARBOHYDRATE; 33 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
CINNAMON PEACH SOUP
Serves 4 to 6
Here’s another great cold soup for a hot summer day. For the best results, use peaches that are ripe to the point of being squishy soft. A similar soup could be made with nectarines or apricots.
2 pounds ripe peaches
3 whole cloves
3 allspice berries
3 cardamom pods
2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (or to taste)
3–4 tablespoons honey or brown sugar (or to taste)
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 cup nonfat yogurt
1 tablespoon diced candied ginger
sprigs of fresh mint, for garnish
1. Drop the peaches in a pot of boiling water and boil for 30 seconds. Rinse them under cold water and slip off the skins. Pit the peaches and coarsely chop them. Tie the cloves, allspice, and cardamom in cheesecloth (or wrap in foil and piece with a fork).
2. Combine the peaches, spice bundle, orange juice, lime juice, honey, cinnamon, and ginger in a heavy saucepan. (The amount of honey needed will depend on the sweetness of the peaches.) Simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the fruit is very soft.
3. Remove the spice bundle and let the soup cool to room temperature. Purée the soup in a blender and chill. Just before serving, whisk in the yogurt and candied ginger. Correct the seasoning, adding honey and lime juice to taste. Serve in glass bowls or wine goblets, garnishing each with a sprig of mint.
215 CALORIES PER SERVING; 5 G PROTEIN; 1 G FAT; 51 G CARBOHYDRATE; 46 MG SODIUM; 1 MG CHOLESTEROL
COLLARD GREEN AND POTATO SOUP
Serves 6 as an appetizer, 4 as an entrée
This soup is modeled on Portugal’s caldo verde, or “green broth,” made with a leafy cabbage similar to collard greens. In Portugal, you can buy a device that looks like a meat slicer for cutting collards into paper-thin shreds. Lacking this, roll the greens lengthwise into a tight bundle, then slice them widthwise as finely as possible, using a sharp chef’s knife.
1½ tablespoons Spanish or Portuguese olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced (1 tablespoon)
2 large potatoes, peeled and finely diced
3 cups chicken stock
3 cups water
2 bay leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ pounds collard greens, stemmed and sliced paper-thin (8 cups)
Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Cook the onion and garlic over medium heat for 3 minutes, or until soft but not brown. Add the potatoes, stock, water, bay leaves, salt, and pepper. Bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.
Stir in the collard greens and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes, or until just tender. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Ladle the soup into large bowls and serve with crusty bread.
Note: The Portuguese like their greens stringier than most North Americans do. You may wish to cut the shredded greens a few times with a chef’s knife.
191 CALORIES PER SERVING; 6 G PROTEIN; 6 G FAT; 31 G CARBOHYDRATE; 82 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
GRANDMA RAICHLEN’S CABBAGE BORSCHT
Serves 8 to 10
To most people, borscht means beets, but this soulful soup can be made with a multitude of vegetables. My great-grandmother brought the recipe from her native Riga to America. To make the broth, she always used flanken, a cheap, flavorful cut of meat similar to skirt steak. For a vegetarian version, you could use vegetable stock or water. I dedicate this recipe to my Aunt Vivian, who loved cabbage borscht more than anything.
1 head green or savoy cabbage
1½ tablespoons olive oil
2 leeks, finely chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
1 large parsnip, peeled and finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced (1 tablespoon)
4 or 5 ripe tomatoes (about 2 pounds), peeled, seeded, and finely chopped, or 1 28-ounce can imported plum tomatoes
2 quarts beef stock, chicken stock, or water
5 whole cloves (or ¼ teaspoon ground cloves)
2 teaspoons caraway seeds (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup brown sugar (or to taste)
¼ cup red wine vinegar (or to taste)
½ cup finely chopped scallions (4 whole scallions), for garnish
¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Cut the cabbage in half lengthwise. Remove the core and cut the leaves widthwise into ¼-inch strips. Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Add the leeks, onion, carrots, celery, parsnip, and garlic, and cook over medium heat for 3 minutes. Stir in the cabbage and cook, stirring often, for 6 to 8 minutes, or until soft. Stir in the tomatoes, stock, cloves, caraway seeds (if using), salt, and pepper. Bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender.
Ten minutes before the end, stir in the brown sugar and vinegar. The soup should be a little sweet and a little sour. Correct the seasoning, adding salt, sugar, and vinegar to taste. Ladle into bowls and garnish with chopped scallions and parsley.
160 CALORIES PER SERVING; 6 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 29 G CARBOHYDRATE; 832 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
MINESTRONE WITH PESTO
Makes 10 cups, enough to serve 8 to 10
Italy meets Provence in this recipe—vegetable, bean, and pasta soup with pesto. Feel free to vary the vegetables according to what’s in season and what looks good. If using canned beans, choose a low-sodium brand. This recipe may look complicated because it contains a lot of ingredients, but it’s actually quick and easy to make.
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 medium leek, trimmed, washed, and finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 stalks celery, thinly sliced
1 large or 2 medium potatoes (about 12 ounces), peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
3 medium zucchini (about 1 pound), cut into ¼-inch dice
3 carrots (about 8 ounces), peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
2 ripe tomatoes (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice
4 ounces green beans, ends snapped, cut into ¼-inch pieces
½ cup green peas (ideally freshly shucked) (optional)
1 herb bundle made by tying together 2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs fresh or dried thyme, and 2 sprigs fresh or dried rosemary
6 to 8 cups water
1½ cups cooked cannellini beans (1 15-ounce can)
2 ounces thin spaghetti, broken into ½-inch pieces
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup Enlightened Pesto (here)
1. In a large pot combine the onion, leek, garlic, celery, potatoes, zucchini, carrots, tomatoes, green beans, peas (if using), and herb bundle and 6 cups water and bring to a boil. Briskly simmer the soup until the vegetables are almost cooked, about 15 minutes.
2. Add the cannellini beans, spaghetti, and a little salt and pepper and simmer until the pasta and vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add 1 to 2 cups water (or more) if necessary to keep the soup soupy. Discard the herb bundle and correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste: the soup should be highly seasoned.
3. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Serve the pesto on the side. Have each eater stir a tablespoon of pesto into his soup before eating.
Note: For a quicker, easier version of this soup, omit the pesto and add 1 bunch washed, stemmed, thinly slivered basil leaves. Of course, it will be minestrone with basil, not pesto.
190 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 7.6 G PROTEIN; 4.6 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 31 G CARBOHYDRATE; 350 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
TORTILLA SOUP
(SOPA DE TORTILLA)
Serves 6 as an appetizer, 4 as a hearty main course
Is there anything more comforting on a chilly night than a steaming bowl of tortilla soup, its broth smoky with roasted vegetables, warmed by pasilla chilies, fragrant with meaty chicken stock, and thick with tortilla “noodles”? Tradition calls for the tortillas to be deep-fried, but I’ve found that baking produces the requisite crispness with dramatically less fat—especially if you use stale tortillas.
10 corn tortillas
3 pasilla chilies
8 plum tomatoes (1¼ to 1½ pounds)
1½ medium white onions, quartered
6 cloves garlic
3 sprigs epazote (or cilantro)
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon lard or olive oil
1 ounce Canadian bacon, minced
6 cups chicken broth (see here)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 to 6 tablespoons no-fat sour cream
¼ cup coarsely grated queso fresco, white cheddar, or Monterey Jack cheese (about 1 ounce)
4 to 6 wedges fresh lime
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut the tortillas in half, then crosswise into ½-inch strips. Arrange the strips on a baking sheet in a single layer. Bake until lightly browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool; the tortillas will crisp as they cool.
2. Stem the chilies, tear open, and remove the veins and seeds. Place the chilies on a baking sheet and bake until they are aromatic and crisp but not burnt, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool; the chilies will crisp as they cool. Coarsely crumble the chilies.
3. In a comal or cast-iron frying pan or under the broiler, roast the tomatoes, onions, and garlic until nicely browned: 8 to 10 minutes for the tomatoes and onions; 4 to 6 minutes for the garlic. In the blender, purée the tomatoes, onion, garlic, epazote, parsley, and one of the toasted chilies.
4. Heat the lard in a large saucepan. Fry the tomato purée and Canadian bacon over high heat, stirring well, until thick, dark, and fragrant, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the chicken broth and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the toasted tortilla strips and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 2 minutes.
5. To serve, ladle the tortilla soup into bowls and garnish each with a dollop of sour cream. Sprinkle the cheese and remaining crumbled pasadilla chilies on top and serve at once, accompanied by lime wedges for squeezing.
Note: Canadian bacon isn’t traditional either, but I like the way it enhances the soup’s smoke flavor.
328 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 12 G PROTEIN; 9 G FAT; 2 G SATURATED FAT; 57 G CARBOHYDRATE; 312 MG SODIUM; 14 MG CHOLESTEROL
Tortilla Soup (Sopa de Tortilla)
SQUID AND SWISS CHARD SOUP
Makes 5 to 6 cups, enough to serve 4
Zimino is a stew of Swiss chard and cuttlefish that originated in Genoa and was traditionally served on Friday. I first tasted it at the restaurant Cesarina in Santa Margherita, where it was made with seppiolini, cuttlefish fish so tiny a half dozen would fit in a tablespoon. I know you can’t buy seppiolini in this country or probably even seppie (cuttlefish). I also know that squid has a significantly different texture and flavor. Nevertheless, the combination of Swiss chard and squid makes a delicious seafood soup with distinctly Ligurian overtones.
1 pound cleaned squid (see box here)
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
1 small or ½ large bulb fennel, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 bay leaf
5 to 6 cups Fish Stock (here), mussel broth, Chicken Stock (here), or bottled clam juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch Swiss chard, stemmed, washed, and thinly sliced crosswise
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice or red wine vinegar (optional)
3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
1. Cut the squid bodies into thin rings. Leave the tentacle section whole. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, celery, fennel, and garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 6 minutes, stirring often. Add half the parsley, the bay leaf, the fish stock, the squid, and a little salt and pepper.
2. Simmer the soup, covered, until the squid are very tender, about 40 minutes. Stir in the Swiss chard the last 10 minutes of cooking. Discard the bay leaf. If a sharper-tasting broth is desired, add a little lemon juice or vinegar. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the remaining parsley and the pine nuts over the stew and serve at once.
Note: Sometimes I make zimino with spinach instead of Swiss chard. You’d need a 10-ounce package of fresh spinach or 5 ounces frozen spinach.
231 CALORIES PER SERVING; 22 G PROTEIN; 11 G FAT; 2 G SATURATED FAT; 12 G CARBOHYDRATE; 99 MG SODIUM; 264 MG CHOLESTEROL
THAI HOT AND SOUR SOUP
Serves 4
This soup is easy to make, but it requires a few special ingredients. This recipe can also be made with chicken, pork, or squid.
4 or 5 stalks fresh lemongrass (or 3 tablespoons dried), or 4 strips lemon zest
1 tablespoon minced galangal or fresh ginger (about 1 inch fresh or frozen galangal, or 3 or 4 dried slices)
4 cups chicken stock
3 tablespoons fish sauce (or to taste)
½–1 teaspoon Thai chili paste or other hot sauce (or to taste)
1 ripe tomato, cut into 8 wedges
1 medium-sized onion, thinly sliced
1 or 2 Thai, serrano, or jalapeño chilies, thinly sliced on the diagonal
4 ounces fresh straw, button, or oyster mushrooms, halved or quartered (about 1 cup)
8 ounces small shrimp
¼ cup fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions
⅓ cup fresh cilantro leaves
1. Cut the top ⅔ off each lemongrass stalk, trim off the outside leaves and roots, and cut the core into ½-inch slices on the diagonal. If using dried lemongrass, soak the pieces in warm water for 20 minutes, then mince. If using lemon zest, remove it from the fruit in thin strips with a vegetable peeler and mince. If using dried galangal, soak it in warm water for 20 minutes.
2. Combine the lemongrass, galangal, chicken stock, fish sauce, and chili paste in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Gently simmer for 5 minutes. Add the tomato, onion, chilies, mushrooms, and shrimp, and simmer for 1 minute, or until the shrimp are firm and pink. The soup can be prepared ahead to this stage.
3. Just before serving, stir in the lime juice, scallions, and cilantro. Bring the soup just to a boil. It should be spicy and quite sour. If more salt is needed, add more fish sauce. If more tartness or hotness is desired, add more lime juice or chili paste. Suggest to your guests that they eat around the lemongrass pieces.
104 CALORIES PER SERVING; 14 G PROTEIN; 2 G FAT; 9 G CARBOHYDRATE; 272 MG SODIUM; 90 MG CHOLESTEROL
Thai Hot and Sour Soup
RHODE ISLAND RED CHOWDER
Serves 6
Clams or fish? Tomatoes or cream? Nothing brings out controversy like chowder. Red chowder contains no cream and (this one at least) no salt pork. Use tiny cherrystone clams if you can find them. Otherwise, use quahogs (pronounced KO-hogs—large hard-shell clams), preshucked clam meat, or even canned clams.
3 dozen tiny cherrystone clams, 16 quahogs, or 2 cups chopped clam meat
2 cups dry white wine
2–4 cups bottled clam broth, fish stock, or water
1½ tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced (1 tablespoon)
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, minced
2 bay leaves
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped (or 1 28-ounce can)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 large potatoes, peeled, diced, and placed in cold water to cover
salt, freshly ground black pepper, and cayenne pepper
1. Scrub the clams and place them in a large pot with the wine. Tightly cover the pot and steam until the shells open. (Cherrystones will need about 6 to 8 minutes steaming, quahogs 12 to 15 minutes.) If using cherrystones, leave the clams in the shells and set aside. If using quahogs, remove the meat from the shells and finely chop, using a meat grinder or food processor. (There should be about 2 cups meat.)
2. Strain the cooking liquid through a cheesecloth-lined strainer into a large measuring cup. Add enough clam broth to make 6 cups. (If using preshucked or canned clams, omit the steaming and use 2 cups wine and 4 cups clam broth.) Heat the oil in a large pot. Add the onion, celery, garlic, thyme, half the parsley, and bay leaves.
3. Cook over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft but not brown. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste, and cook for 2 minutes. Add the wine–clam broth mixture, and bring to a boil. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat, and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.
4. Just before serving, stir in the cooked cherrystones or clam meat and the salt, pepper, and cayenne. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Garnish with the remaining parsley and serve at once.
252 CALORIES PER SERVING; 13 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 28 G CARBOHYDRATE; 402 MG SODIUM; 26 MG CHOLESTEROL
Rhode Island Red Chowder
UMBRIAN CLAM “CHOWDER”
Serves 4
The Villa Roncalli occupies a former seventeenth-century hunting lodge on the outskirts of the city of Foligno in Umbria. To call its young chef, Maria Luisa Leocastre, gifted would be an understatement. Maria Luisa has mastered that quintessential Italian art of extracting stunning flavors from just a few simple ingredients. Consider the following clam “chowder,” which is made with cannellini beans instead of potatoes. The only thing less than wonderful about this soup is the color. The parsley helps, but try to concentrate on the flavor, not the appearance.
32 littleneck clams, 24 cherrystone clams, or 12 ounces canned clams with juices (see Note)
1½ cups dry white wine
2½ to 3 cups Fish Stock (here), Chicken Stock (here), Basic Vegetable Stock (here), or bottled clam juice
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 stalks celery, finely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1½ cups cooked cannellini beans (14-ounce can)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. If using fresh clams, scrub the shells, discarding any with cracked shells or open shells that fail to close when tapped. Bring the wine to a boil. Add the clams, cover the pot tightly, and cook over high heat until the clams just open, about 8 minutes. Stir the clams once or twice to give the shellfish on the bottom room to open.
2. Transfer the clams to a bowl with a slotted spoon to cool so you can shell them. Shell all but 4 of the clams and set aside. Strain the clam cooking liquid through a strainer lined with a cheesecloth or paper towels into a large measuring cup. Add enough fish stock to obtain 4 cups liquid. If using canned clams, you’ll need to add 2 cups stock.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, garlic, celery, and half the parsley. Cook until the vegetables are soft but not brown, about 4 minutes. Stir in the beans, shelled clams, and clam stock and simmer until richly flavored, about 5 minutes. Purée the soup in a blender and return it to the pot. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste.
4. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Sprinkle each with parsley and float a clam in the center. Alternatively, you can garnish each bowl of soup with a few croutons.
Note: You can make a 5-minute version of this soup by using canned clams and beans. Try to buy canned baby clams (you’ll need 10 to 12 ounces).
264 CALORIES PER SERVING; 17 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 0.6 G SATURATED FAT; 24 G CARBOHYDRATE; 70 MG SODIUM; 24 MG CHOLESTEROL
FISHERMAN’S STEW
(ZUPPA DEL PESCATORE)
Serves 4
Here’s a stunning fish stew for people who find making bouillabaisse too complicated and time-consuming. Quite literally, you can make it from start to finish in 30 minutes. You don’t even need fish broth (although using it will make a tastier zuppa). The more types of seafood you use, of course, the better the stew will be. Feel free to use all or some of the seafoods called for below or make substitutions, based on what’s freshest and best in your area or at your fish market.
1½ tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 large red ripe tomato, finely chopped, with its juices
1 large or 2 medium baking potatoes (about 1 pound)
1 quart water, or fish broth for a richer stew
3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 bay leaf
½ teaspoon dried oregano
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SEAFOOD:
12 littleneck clams, scrubbed
12 mussels, scrubbed, threads at the hinge of the shell removed with needlenose pliers
12 shrimp or prawns, peeled and deveined
1 pound fish fillets (possibilities include snapper, mahi-mahi, cod, bass, and swordfish)
1. Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan (preferably nonstick). Add the onion and cook over medium heat for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until the onion and garlic are soft and translucent but not brown, about 2 minutes more. Add the tomato and cook until soft, about 2 minutes.
2. Add the potatoes, the water, half the parsley, the bay leaf, the oregano, and salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and gently simmer the potatoes, uncovered, until half-cooked, about 10 minutes.
3. Add the clams and mussels, cover the pan, and cook until the shells just begin to open, about 5 minutes. Discard any clams and mussels that do not open. Add the shrimp and fish and continue simmering until all the seafood is cooked and the potatoes are soft, about 3 minutes.
4. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Serve fisherman’s stew in shallow bowls, with extra bowls for holding the empty clam and mussel shells. Garnish with the remaining parsley.
350 CALORIES PER SERVING; 36 G PROTEIN; 8 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 33 G CARBOHYDRATE; 174 MG SODIUM; 95 MG CHOLESTEROL
Fisherman’s Stew (Zuppa del Pescatore)
VENETIAN SHELLFISH SOUP
Serves 4
Variations of this soup turn up all along the Italian coast. The shellfish and seasonings change from region to region: one cook might use vongole (tiny clams with brown-striped shells); another, fasolari (pink clams); a third, cannolicchi (tiny razor clams). Here’s a Venetian version, made with both clams and mussels.
1 pound of the smallest mussels you can find (20 to 24 mussels)
12 to 16 of the tiniest clams you can find
1 cup dry white wine
3 cups Fish Stock (here) or bottled clam juice
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tomato, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely diced
¼ teaspoon hot pepper flakes (optional)
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Scrub the mussels and clams, discarding any with cracked shells or open shells that fail to close when tapped. Using tweezers or needlenose pliers, pull out any tufts of black threads clumped at the hinge of the mussels.
2. Bring the wine to a boil. Add the fish broth, onion, garlic, tomato, celery, pepper flakes, and half the parsley and bring to a boil. Add the mussels and clams, cover the pan tightly, and cook over high heat until the mussel and clam shells just open, about 8 minutes. Stir the soup once or twice to give the shellfish on the bottom room to open. Discard any mussels or clams that do not open. Add salt and pepper to taste.
3. With a slotted spoon or wire skimmer, transfer the mussels, clams, and vegetables to a tureen or 4 soup bowls. Strain the broth through a strainer lined with a cheesecloth or paper towels over the shellfish. Or, if you’re in a hurry, ladle the broth over the shellfish, leaving the last ½ inch (the part where the grit gathers) in the pot. Sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons parsley on top and serve at once, with crusty bread for dunking.
117 CALORIES PER SERVING; 10 G PROTEIN; 1 G FAT; 0 G SATURATED FAT; 6 G CARBOHYDRATE; 227 MG SODIUM; 27 MG CHOLESTEROL
GRAMMIE ETHEL’S CHICKEN NOODLE SOUP
Makes 10 to 12 cups, enough to serve 6 to 8
Is there anything quite as comforting as a bowl of chicken soup? Untold generations of Raichlens have enjoyed this golden elixir in times of illness as well as health. I can’t think of better relief for a cold, flu, or whatever else ails you. Here’s a chicken soup just like my Grammie Ethel makes. You can use the extra meat for one of the salads here.
FOR THE BROTH:
1 3½- to 4-pound chicken
1 onion, quartered
1 leek, trimmed, washed, and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 stalks celery with leaves, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 cloves garlic
1 bouquet garni of bay leaf, thyme, and parsley
TO FINISH THE SOUP:
8 ounces egg noodles, thin spaghetti, fettuccine, or bow ties
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1. Remove any lumps of fat from the chicken. (For a leaner broth, remove the skin, too.) Wash the bird and drain. Place the chicken, vegetables, garlic, and bouquet garni in a large pot and add cold water to cover by 2 inches. (You’ll need about 4 quarts.)
2. Bring the soup to a rolling boil, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Lower the heat and gently simmer the soup for 1 hour, skimming often. Add cold water as necessary to keep the bird covered and skim after you add it.
3. Strain the chicken broth into another large pot and keep hot. Transfer the chicken to a platter, and let cool. Pull the meat off the bones. Finely dice or shred 1½ cups meat. Save the rest for chicken salad.
4. Cook the noodles in 8 cups boiling salted water until al dente, about 8 minutes. Strain, rinse under cold water, and drain. Stir the noodles and the diced chicken into the simmering chicken broth. Add salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle the soup with the parsley and serve at once. This recipe is the next best thing to having dinner at Grammie Ethel’s.
213 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 15 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 30 G CARBOHYDRATE; 38 MG SODIUM; 29 MG CHOLESTEROL
COCONUT NOODLE STEW
Serves 4
This colorful dish was inspired by Marnie’s Noodle Shop, a postage stamp–size eatery in Greenwich Village that specializes in brimming bowls of Asian-style noodles. This recipe calls for chicken, but you can substitute seafood or make a vegetarian version by using shiitake mushrooms or other vegetables. Marnie’s uses a thick, chewy, fresh udon-style noodle, but any wheat noodle will do. (I’ve had great success with perciatelli, bucatini, and even linguini.)
8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast (optional)
1 tablespoon canola oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 shallots, thinly sliced
1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 cups lite coconut milk (see Note)
4 cups Chicken Stock (see here)
1 tablespoon cornstarch
4 to 5 tablespoons Asian fish sauce or soy sauce, or to taste
1 pound fresh udon noodles or 8 ounces dried udon (or other thick Asian wheat noodles) or perciatelli or bucatini
6 cups stemmed, washed fresh spinach
freshly ground black pepper
4 scallions, finely chopped
1. Wash the chicken breast, if using, and blot dry. Trim off any fat or sinew and cut the chicken breast widthwise into the thinnest possible slices.
2. Heat the oil in a nonstick wok or large saucepan. Add the garlic, shallots, and ginger and cook over medium heat until fragrant and just beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the coconut milk and stock and bring to a rolling boil. Reduce the heat, add the chicken, and gently simmer until the chicken is cooked and the mixture is richly flavored, about 5 minutes.
3. Dissolve the cornstarch in the fish sauce in a small bowl. Stir this mixture into the broth and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes. The broth should thicken slightly.
4. Cook the noodles in 4 quarts of rapidly boiling water until tender, about 3 minutes for fresh noodles and 8 minutes for dried. Drain the noodles in a colander and add them to the coconut mixture. Simmer the noodles in the broth for 1 minute. Stir in the spinach and simmer until cooked, about 30 seconds. Add pepper to taste and, if needed, a little more fish sauce: The broth should be highly seasoned. Ladle the stew into bowls, sprinkle with scallions, and serve at once.
Note: Coconut milk, with its high saturated fat content, may seem like an unlikely ingredient for a low-fat cookbook, but the new “lite” coconut milk by A Taste of Thai contains only a third the fat found in regular coconut milk. A Taste of Thai Lite Coconut Milk is available in most gourmet shops.
370 CALORIES PER SERVING; 13 G PROTEIN; 10 G FAT; 5 G SATURATED FAT; 58 G CARBOHYDRATE; 2,166 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
SPAETZLE SOUP
Serves 4 to 6
Here’s a twist on classic chicken noodle soup, made with tiny homemade egg noodles called spaetzle. (The word is a German diminutive for “sparrow,” a reference to the noodle’s birdlike shape.) Spaetzle are the only egg noodles I know of that can be made from start to finish from scratch in ten minutes, which makes them very popular around our house. (You’ll need one special piece of equipment that is described in the Note to this recipe.) Spaetzle is traditionally served as a side dish; however, I like them in chicken soup. Think of the following as the ultimate comfort food.
FOR THE SPAETZLE:
1 egg white
1 whole egg (or 2 more whites)
⅔ cup skim milk
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
¾ teaspoon salt (optional)
1½ cups (approximately) unbleached all-purpose white flour
½ teaspoon canola oil
TO FINISH THE SOUP:
6 cups Chicken Stock (see here)
1 large or 2 medium carrots, cut into the finest possible dice
2 stalks celery, cut into the finest possible dice
1½ cups shredded cooked chicken
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
¼ cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1. Combine the egg white and egg in a mixing bowl and whisk until smooth but not frothy. Whisk in the milk, seasonings, and enough flour to obtain a thick, sticky dough. (It should have the consistency of soft ice cream.)
2. Bring 4 quarts of water and the oil to a boil in a large, deep saucepan. Place the spaetzle machine over the pan, add the dough to the holder, and push back and forth to cut tiny droplets of dough into the water. Cook the spaetzle until the water returns to a boil and the noodles rise to the surface, about 1 minute. Remove the spaetzle with a skimmer or slotted spoon and transfer to a colander to drain. Rinse with cold water until cool. (This keeps the spaetzle from overcooking and removes the excess starch.) Continue cooking the spaetzle in this fashion until all the batter is used up. Drain well. The spaetzle can be prepared up to 48 hours ahead to this stage and refrigerated.
3. Just before serving, bring the chicken stock to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the carrot and celery and cook until soft, about 3 minutes. Stir in the chicken (if using) and spaetzle and cook until heated. Season the soup with salt and pepper to taste (it should be highly seasoned) and sprinkle with the parsley before serving.
Note: A spaetzle machine is a hand-held device consisting of a thin metal rectangle lined with rows of small holes, surmounted by a movable, open-topped box. The batter is placed in the box, which is slid back and forth over the metal plate. As it moves, tiny droplets of dough fall through the holes, forming tiny dumplings called spaetzle. Spaetzle machines can be purchased at most cookware shops.
234 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 9 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 43 G CARBOHYDRATE; 93 MG SODIUM; 54 MG CHOLESTEROL
SOPA DE LIMA—YUCATÁN CHICKEN LIME SOUP
Serves 4 to 6
This vibrant soup is just the thing for relieving a stubborn cold. The chilies blast open your sinuses, the lime juice loads you with vitamin C, while the garlic is believed to possess antibiotic properties. I’ve suggested a range of chilies: 1 seeded chili for a mild soup, 3 to 4 with seeds for liquid fire.
12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1 corn tortilla, cut into matchstick slivers
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 to 4 serrano or jalapeño chilies, thinly sliced
5 cups chicken stock (see here)
½ cup fresh lime juice, or to taste
1 large ripe tomato, cut into ½-inch dice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1. Wash and dry the chicken breasts and trim off any fat. Cut the chicken breasts across the grain on the diagonal into thin ⅛-inch strips. Cut these strips in half widthwise.
2. Spread the tortilla slivers on a nonstick baking sheet or on a piece of foil and bake in a 400°F. oven or toaster oven until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Let cool on a plate.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, garlic, and chili slices and cook over medium heat until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the chicken stock, lime juice, chicken, and tomato. Gently simmer the soup until the chicken is cooked, about 3 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste and extra lime juice if desired: The soup should be highly seasoned. Stir in the cilantro. Ladle soup into bowls and sprinkle with toasted tortilla strips.
221 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 19 G PROTEIN; 6 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 23 G CARBOHYDRATE; 105 MG SODIUM; 41 MG CHOLESTEROL
Sopa de Lima—Yucatán Chicken Lime Soup
VELVET CHICKEN SOUP WITH CORN AND LEEKS
Serves 4
Here’s a Western twist on a Chinese classic, a velvety chicken soup loaded with corn, leeks, and herbs. The chicken can be either finely diced or minced. Canned corn may seem like a rather pedestrian ingredient, but that’s really how the soup is made in Chinese restaurants.
½ pound boneless, skinless chicken breast
1 tablespoon sesame oil or canola oil
1 leek, trimmed, washed, and finely chopped (trim just up to the light-green part; should be about 1 cup)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
¼ cup rice wine or dry sherry
4 cups Chicken Stock (see here)
1 15-ounce can creamed corn
2 teaspoons honey
salt (optional) and freshly ground black pepper (to taste)
1½ tablespoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water or chicken stock
2 egg whites, lightly beaten (but not foamy)
½ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, basil, or fresh dill
1. Rinse and dry the chicken breast. Remove any fat or tendons from the chicken. Cut the chicken into a fine dice or mince with a cleaver or in a food processor.
2. Heat the oil in a large nonstick saucepan. Add the leek, garlic, and ginger and cook over medium heat until soft but not brown, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the wine and bring to a boil. Add the chicken stock, corn, honey, and chicken and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the chicken is cooked and the soup is richly flavored. Add salt and pepper to taste.
3. Bring the soup to a boil. Stir the dissolved cornstarch, and add to the soup. Return the soup to a boil: It should thicken slightly. Add the egg whites in a very thin stream from a height of about 6 inches, stirring the soup a few times with a wooden spoon. You should wind up with delicate threads of egg. Just before serving, stir in the parsley. Cook for 30 seconds and serve at once.
235 CALORIES PER SERVING; 14 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 32 G CARBOHYDRATE; 372 MG SODIUM; 27 MG CHOLESTEROL
CHICKEN GUMBO
Serves 6 to 8
Gumbo takes its name from nkgombo, an African word for okra. My low-fat version uses smoked chicken to provide the rich smoky flavor traditionally supplied by tasso ham and andouille sausage. To further lighten the dish, I’ve modified the procedure for making the roux and greatly reduced the amount of oil. Gumbo is traditionally served over white rice in shallow bowls or soup dishes.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups)
4 stalks celery, finely chopped
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
3 tablespoons flour
1 to 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning
1 teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon ground bay leaves
1 cup beer
4 cups Chicken Stock (here)
2 to 3 cups diced smoked chicken (8 to 12 ounces—see recipe here, or use a good commercial brand)
12 ounces fresh okra, cut widthwise into ½-inch slices (about 3 cups)
1 cup corn kernels
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot sauce, or to taste
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon filé powder (sometimes sold as filé gumbo—optional)
1. Heat the oil in a large, heavy, nonstick pot. Add the chopped vegetables and garlic and cook over medium heat until nicely browned, 6 to 8 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the flour, Cajun seasoning, thyme, and bay leaves and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the beer and stock and bring to a boil.
2. Reduce the heat to a simmer and stir in the smoked chicken, okra, corn, Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until well flavored, 10 to 12 minutes.
3. Just before serving, stir in the filé powder, if using. Simmer the gumbo for 1 minute. Correct the seasoning, adding Cajun spice, hot sauce, salt, or other seasonings to taste. The gumbo should be highly seasoned.
204 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 12 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 27 G CARBOHYDRATE; 465 MG SODIUM; 32 MG CHOLESTEROL
BRAZILIAN CHICKEN RICE SOUP
Serves 8 as an appetizer, 4 to 6 as an entrée
Every nation has a version of chicken soup. One of the most satisfying is Brazil’s canja. This recipe includes instructions for making the broth. If you’re in a hurry, use premade stock (here) and start with adding the rice in paragraph 3.
1 3-pound chicken
1 bay leaf
1 medium-sized onion, quartered
1 whole clove
2 ripe tomatoes, quartered
1 carrot, cut into 1-inch pieces
¼ cup chopped celery leaves
20 black peppercorns, tied in a piece of cheesecloth
½ cup uncooked white rice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 carrots, thinly sliced on the diagonal
3 stalks celery, thinly sliced on the diagonal
¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1. Wash the chicken thoroughly. Remove the skin and any pieces of fat. Pin the bay leaf to 1 onion quarter with the clove. Place the chicken in a large pot with the tomatoes, onion quarters, 1 carrot, celery leaves, and peppercorn bundle. Add 10 cups cold water and bring to a boil. Using a ladle, skim off the fat and foam that rise to the surface. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour, skimming often to remove the fat.
2. Remove the chicken from the broth and let cool. Strain the broth into a large saucepan, pressing the vegetables to extract the juices. (There should be about 8 cups of broth.) Pull the chicken meat off the bones and shred or finely dice it.
3. Add the rice, salt, and pepper to the broth and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the thinly sliced carrots and celery to the soup with the shredded chicken and half the parsley. Simmer the soup for another 10 minutes, or until the rice is tender. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and serve at once.
293 CALORIES PER SERVING; 33 G PROTEIN; 8 G FAT; 22 G CARBOHYDRATE; 131 MG SODIUM; 92 MG CHOLESTEROL
TIBETAN NOODLE STEW
Serves 4
I first tasted this dish at the Tibetan Kitchen, a charming, tiny Manhattan restaurant. The noodle favored there is a short, open-sided tube called gutse-ritu, which closely resembles cavatelli, an Italian pasta widely available at gourmet shops.
2 cups cavatelli or other thin tube-shaped pasta
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 onions, thinly sliced (about 1½ cups)
8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
4 ounces lean lamb, thinly sliced (optional)
2 tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch dice
4 cups Chicken Stock or Vegetable Stock (see here, here)
3 to 4 tablespoons tamari or soy sauce
2 teaspoons hot paprika, or to taste
4 cups stemmed, washed spinach leaves
1. Cook the cavatelli in 4 quarts of boiling water until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain in a colander, rinse with cold water until cool, and drain again.
2. Heat the oil in a wok or large saucepan, preferably nonstick. Add the onions, garlic, and ginger and cook over medium heat until nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the lamb, if using, and tomatoes and cook until the lamb loses its rawness, about 2 minutes.
3. Stir in the stock, tamari or soy sauce, and paprika and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the stew until richly flavored and the lamb is tender, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the cavatelli and simmer for 2 minutes. Stir in the spinach leaves and cook until wilted, about 1 minute. Correct the seasoning, adding tamari or paprika to taste.
294 CALORIES PER SERVING; 12 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 53 G CARBOHYDRATE; 818 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
Tibetan Noodle Stew
VIETNAMESE BEEF NOODLE SOUP
Serves 6 as an appetizer, 4 as an entrée
Rice noodle soup is a popular street food throughout Southeast Asia. This version, redolent with star anise and ginger, takes only 15 minutes to make. It even includes its own salad: the platter of bean sprouts and mint sprigs traditionally served with a Vietnamese meal. Asians like long noodles, and it is their custom to slurp them noisily. North Americans may prefer to cut the rice sticks into more manageable lengths.
8 ounces rice sticks, preferably ⅛-inch wide
4 scallions, whites minced, greens finely chopped for garnish
6 cups beef or chicken stock
6 thin slices fresh ginger
3 star anise
¼ cup fish sauce
6 ounces beef tenderloin or sirloin, partially frozen
1 large white onion
12–15 fresh basil or mint leaves
2 cups fresh mung bean sprouts
12 sprigs fresh mint or basil
1 or 2 jalapeño or serrano chilies, thinly sliced
2 limes, cut into wedges
1. Soak the rice sticks in cold water for 30 minutes, or until soft. Combine the scallion whites, stock, ginger, star anise, and fish sauce in a large pot and gently simmer for 10 minutes, or until well flavored. Remove the ginger and star anise with a slotted spoon and discard.
2. Meanwhile, slice the beef across the grain as thinly as possible. (It’s easier if you have a meat slicer.) Thinly slice the onion. Thinly sliver the basil leaves. Arrange the bean sprouts, mint sprigs, sliced chilies, and lime wedges on a platter.
3. Just before serving, bring the broth to a boil. Add the rice sticks and simmer for 15 to 30 seconds, or until soft. Stir in the beef and remove the pan from the heat. (The heat of the broth should be sufficient to cook the meat. If not, simmer it for a few seconds.) Stir in the onion slices and ladle the soup into bowls. Garnish each bowl with the slivered basil and chopped scallion greens, and serve at once, with the bean sprout platter on the side. Let each person add bean sprouts, mint sprigs, chilies, and lime juice to the soup to taste.
341 CALORIES PER SERVING; 24 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 49 G CARBOHYDRATE; 2,671 MG SODIUM; 32 MG CHOLESTEROL
VEGETABLE SOUP WITH MEATBALLS
Serves 8 as an appetizer, 4 to 6 as a light main course
This is Mexican comfort food at its best, a steaming bowl of broth chock-full of vegetables and tiny meatballs fragrant with spices and enriched with rice. There are probably as many different meatball recipes in Mexico as there are cooks. These feature the aromatic accents of oregano, cumin, and, for a sweet touch, cinnamon and cloves. To decrease the amount of fat, I’ve replaced some of the pork and beef with boneless, skinless chicken breast and used egg whites instead of a whole egg.
FOR THE MEATBALLS:
6 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into ½-inch cubes
6 ounces lean pork loin, cut into ½-inch cubes
6 ounces lean beef (like sirloin), cut into ½-inch cubes
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of ground cloves
3 tablespoons minced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 egg whites
1 cup cooked rice
TO FINISH THE SOUP:
9 cups chicken stock (here)
1 bay leaf
1 medium onion
2 carrots
2 stalks celery
¼ medium cabbage
1 baking potato
6 ounces green beans
½ cup cooked corn kernels
½ cup cooked green peas
½ cup cooked lima beans
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. To prepare the meatballs, place the chicken, pork, beef, salt, pepper, oregano, cumin, cinnamon, cloves, onion, and garlic in a food processor and grind to a fine paste. Add the egg whites and process to mix. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and stir in the rice. To test for seasoning, fry a small piece of meatball mixture in a nonstick skillet. Correct the seasoning, adding salt, pepper, or any other spice to taste. Chill the meatball mixture for 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the soup. Bring the chicken stock with the bay leaf to a boil in a large pot. Cut the onion, carrots, celery, cabbage, potato, and green beans into ½-inch dice (the green beans will be in ½-inch pieces). Add them to the pot with the corn, peas, and lima beans. Briskly simmer the soup until the vegetables are almost cooked, 8 to 10 minutes.
3. Form the meatball mixture into 32 (¾-inch) balls. (It helps to dampen your hands when forming the balls.) Gently lower the meatballs into the soup and simmer until they are cooked through, 10 to 15 minutes. Season the broth to taste, adding salt and pepper. Ladle it into bowls and serve at once.
334 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 33 G PROTEIN; 6 G FAT; 2 G SATURATED FAT; 39 G CARBOHYDRATE; 140 MG SODIUM; 69 MG CHOLESTEROL