Is there any dish that better epitomizes the glory and comfort of the Italian table than fresh pasta? Soft yet chewy, velvety and smooth, it’s the very soul of Italian cooking. Traditional egg pasta is made with only eggs and flour, of course, but it’s still not what I’d call bad for you. An appetizer-size portion of egg pasta rings in at about 3.3 grams of fat per serving; a main-course portion, at about 4.4 grams per serving. Tolerable. So our master recipe follows the traditional proportions. You can trim the fat by about 30 percent by substituting 2 egg whites for 1 of the whole eggs. Or by making one of the vegetable pastas here. I also offer three methods for making pasta: one by hand, one in the food processor, and one in the mixer. But even when mixing by machine, I like to knead the dough for a minute or two by hand to give it a “human” touch.

WHOLE-WHEAT ORECCHIETTE

Serves 4 to 6

Many fancy restaurants and hotels in Italy have the sense to hire local housewives to make their pasta. Which is how I met Antonia Chiarappa, pastamaker at the luxurious Melograno (“Pomegranate”) resort in Apulia. Working with a dexterity that borders on legerdemain, Antonia transforms a simple whole-wheat dough into delicate orecchiette (tiny pasta disks—the name literally means “little ears”). Don’t be discouraged if your first few orecchiette look misshapen. With a little practice, you’ll be turning them out the way Antonia does. Orecchiette are traditionally served with broccoli rabe sauce (here), or any of the tomato sauces here.

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1 cup all-purpose unbleached white flour

1 egg or 2 egg whites

about ½ cup hot water

1 scant teaspoon salt

HAND METHOD

1. Mix the flours in a bowl and dump them in a mound on a smooth work surface. Make a depression in the center, using your hands or the bottom of a measuring cup. Place the egg or whites, water, and salt in the center and beat with a fork. Gradually incorporate the flour, working with your fingertips. Knead the mixture into a firm but pliable dough. (If the dough looks too dry, add a little more water.) You’ll need 6 to 8 minutes kneading by hand in all. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let stand for 30 minutes.

FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD

1a. Place the flours in a processor bowl fitted with a dough blade. With the machine running, add the egg or whites, water, and salt. Knead the mixture into a firm but pliable dough, about 3 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let stand for 30 minutes.

MIXER METHOD

1b. Place the flours in the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. With the machine running, add the egg or whites, water, and salt. Knead the mixture into a firm but pliable dough, about 8 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let stand for 30 minutes.

2. Divide the dough into 4 even portions. Roll each under the palms of your hands to form a cylinder ½ inch in diameter. Cut the cylinder into ¼-inch pieces. Lightly flour your fingers. Roll each small piece of dough into a ball with your fingers, then flatten it against your thumb by pressing with your forefinger. Peel the dough off your thumb. It should look like a tiny concave disk (or, with a little imagination, a little ear). Transfer to a lightly floured baking sheet or screen to dry. Continue making the orecchiette until all the dough is used up. Let the orecchiette dry for 30 minutes.

3. Bring 4 quarts salted water to a rolling boil. Add the orecchiette and boil until al dente, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain well before adding to the sauce.

234 CALORIES PER SERVING;^* 9 G PROTEIN; 2 G FAT; 0.5 G SATURATED FAT; 46 G CARBOHYDRATE; 444 MG SODIUM; 53 MG CHOLESTEROL

HERB SPAETZLE

Serves 6 to 8

Spaetzle are tiny dumplings. The name literally means “little sparrow” in German, and with a bit of imagination, these pea-sized dumplings do, indeed, look like tiny birds. The traditional recipe for spaetzle is loaded with eggs and butter. This low-fat version omits the yolks and generously uses fresh herbs for flavor and richness. It goes particularly well with meat and poultry dishes made with sauces.

2 egg whites

1 whole egg (or 2 more whites)

1 cup skim milk

½ cup minced fresh herbs (basil, oregano, tarragon, thyme, chervil, chives, and/or flat-leaf parsley)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated nutmeg

2 cups flour (approximately)

2 teaspoons olive oil (optional)

1. Combine the egg whites, egg, milk, 6 tablespoons herbs, salt (I use 1 scant teaspoon), pepper, and nutmeg in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Sift in the flour. Mix with a wooden spoon to obtain a loose, sticky batter. (It should be the consistency of apple sauce. If it’s too thin, add a little flour.)

2. Bring at least 2 quarts water to a rolling boil in a large, deep saucepan. Add 1 teaspoon salt. Place a spaetzle maker over the pan, load it with dough, and cut tiny droplets into the water. Cook for 1 minute, or until the water returns to a boil and the spaetzle rise to the surface. Remove the spaetzle with a skimmer or slotted spoon and transfer to a colander to drain. Continue cooking the spaetzle in this fashion until all the batter is used up.

Transfer the spaetzle to a bowl and toss with the olive oil (if using). Sprinkle with the remaining herbs and serve at once.

Note: The easiest way to make spaetzle is to use a spaetzle maker.

190 CALORIES PER SERVING; 8 G PROTEIN; 2 G FAT; 34 G CARBOHYDRATE; 319 MG SODIUM; 36 MG CHOLESTEROL

Herb Spaetzle

POTATO GNOCCHI

Serves 8 to 10

Gnocchi (pronounced “NYO-key”) are small, soft dumplings that have the seemingly opposite virtues of being feather-light and pleasingly chewy. This is no small feat when you stop to consider that the two principal ingredients are potatoes (or another root vegetable) and flour. Bad gnocchi are simply starchy on the palate and leaden in the belly.

2 pounds baking potatoes, scrubbed but not peeled

1 egg white (or egg yolk)

1 teaspoon salt to taste

2½ to 3 cups all-purpose unbleached white flour, plus flour for rolling

1. Place the potatoes in a large pot with cold water to cover. Gradually bring to a boil. Briskly simmer the potatoes until soft (they’ll be easy to pierce with a skewer), about 20 minutes. Drain and rinse them with cold water until cool enough to handle (but still hot), and drain again. Pull the skins off the potatoes with the help of a paring knife.

2. Purée the potatoes in a large mixing bowl with a potato masher, put them through a vegetable mill or ricer, or mash them in a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Stir in the egg white, salt, and flour. Add enough flour to obtain a soft dough—it should be the consistency of soft ice cream. The dough will be sticky, but it shouldn’t be wet. Bring 4 quarts lightly salted water to a boil in a large pot.

3. Generously flour your work surface. Pinch off a 3-inch ball of dough and roll it out into a long, skinny, ½-inch-thick cylinder. Using a sharp paring knife, cut the cylinder on the diagonal into ½-inch pieces. These will be your gnocchi. Continue working until all the dough is rolled and cut. At this point the gnocchi can be frozen for future use. See Note.

4. Boil the gnocchi in the water until firm, about 5 minutes. Work in several batches, to avoid crowding the pot. Transfer the gnocchi with a slotted spoon or wire skimmer to a colander to drain. The gnocchi can be served right away with your favorite sauce (see here). Or you can layer them in a baking dish with sauce and cheese or sauce and vegetables to make a casserole that you can bake now or later.

Here are some points to watch:

• Use a dry, starchy potato, like an Idaho baking potato.

• Mash the potatoes by hand, or put them through a vegetable mill or ricer, or mash them in a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Never purée them in a food processor.

• It’s best to add the flour to the potatoes when they are still warm.

• The gnocchi dough will be very soft, sticky, and hard to work with. It’s supposed to be. Use plenty of flour for rolling it out.

Note: This recipe will make a rather large batch of gnocchi, which is how we make them in our house. Any excess can be frozen before cooking—they freeze well. Freeze them on a baking sheet, then transfer them to a plastic bag. To cook, add the frozen gnocchi directly to boiling water.

The roll-and-cut method described in step 3 is quick and easy and produces pleasingly rustic-looking gnocchi. For a fancier presentation, you can roll the individual gnocchi against the tines of a fork to make the traditional ridged oval shape.

254 CALORIES PER SERVING;^* 7 G PROTEIN; 0.5 G FAT; 0 G SATURATED FAT; 55 G CARBOHYDRATE; 280 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

Potato, Beet, and Wasabi Gnocchi

PINO’S BEET GNOCCHI

Serves 8 to 10

Puréed beets give these gnocchi a stunning rose color and earthy flavor that go beautifully with a variety of sauces. Beet gnocchi are a specialty of my friend Pino Saverino, a chef from Chiavari, Italy, who now works in Miami. For a more complete discussion of making gnocchi, see the basic recipe here.

1 (16-ounce) can or jar of cooked beets, drained and blotted dry

2 eggs

2 pounds baking potatoes, unpeeled

2 teaspoons salt

2½ to 3 cups all-purpose unbleached white flour or as needed, plus flour for rolling the gnocchi

1 to 2 teaspoons vegetable oil (optional)

1. Purée the beets in a food processor or blender; add the eggs and blend until you have a smooth purée. Set the mixture aside.

2. Place the potatoes in a large pot with water to cover. Gradually bring to a boil. Boil the potatoes 20 to 30 minutes, until very tender (they’ll be easy to piece with a skewer). Drain the potatoes in a colander and let cool until you can comfortably handle them.

3. Pull the skin off the potatoes with the help of a paring knife and place them in a mixer fitted with a paddle or dough hook. Beat them until mashed. Alternatively, you can mash them with a pestle or purée them through a food mill. Do not purée in a food processor or the gnocchi will be gummy. Beat in the beet purée, the salt, and enough flour to obtain a soft, sticky dough.

4. Bring 4 quarts lightly salted water to a boil in a large pot.

5. Generously flour your work surface. Pinch off a 3-inch ball of dough and roll it into a long, skinny cylinder about ½-inch thick. Cut the cylinder on the diagonal into ½-inch pieces. These are the gnocchi. Continue rolling and cutting the dough until all is used up. Use plenty of flour on your hands and the cutting board to keep the gnocchi from sticking.

6. Boil the gnocchi in the water until firm, working in several batches to avoid crowding the pot. The cooking time will be 2 to 3 minutes once the water returns to a boil. The gnocchi should be light but firm. Transfer the cooked gnocchi with a wire skimmer or slotted spoon to a colander to drain. Rinse with cold water and drain again. Transfer the gnocchi to a roasting pan and toss with a little oil to prevent sticking. Continue cooking the gnocchi in this fashion until all the dough is used up.

The gnocchi can be served right away. There are a variety of great sauces for beet gnocchi, including the Enlightened Pesto here (the green and pink make a lovely combination), or the pumpkin sauce here. Tomato sauce would be too strong and too red. Ladle the hot sauce over the gnocchi and serve.

Another way to serve the gnocchi (this is especially good for a crowd) is to arrange them in a lightly oiled baking dish, top with sauce, and sprinkle with a little freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Bake the gnocchi in a 400°F. oven until bubbling and beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.

Note: To freeze the gnocchi for future use, arrange the cooked gnocchi on a baking sheet in the freezer. When frozen hard, place them in resealable freezer bags. My wife and I like to freeze two-person portions, so we always have some on hand for dinner.

345 CALORIES PER SERVING;^* 10 G PROTEIN; 2 G FAT; 0.5 G SATURATED FAT; 73 G CARBOHYDRATE; 717 MG SODIUM; 53 MG CHOLESTEROL

ROMAN-STYLE SEMOLINA GNOCCHI

Serves 6

These dumplings are a cross between traditional flour-based gnocchi and polenta. If you live near an Italian market, you may be able to buy semolina (coarse-grained particles of durum wheat). Quick-cooking Cream of Wheat works well, too, and is available at any supermarket. The chicken broth isn’t traditional, but it replaces some of the flavor traditionally provided by egg yolks and oceans of butter.

2 cups skim, 1 percent, or 2 percent milk

2 cups chicken broth

1 cup semolina or quick-cooking Cream of Wheat

2 egg whites or ¼ cup egg substitute

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

salt and freshly ground black pepper

spray oil

1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or butter

1. Bring the milk and broth to a simmer in a heavy saucepan. Add the semolina in a thin stream, whisking steadily. Simmer the mixture over medium heat until cooked and thick, 5 to 10 minutes, whisking to obtain a smooth consistency. Let the mixture cool to warm. Whisk in the egg whites, ¼ cup of the cheese, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread the semolina mixture on a nonstick baking sheet with a spatula (the layer should be about ¼-inch thick) and let cool until firm, about 1 hour.

2. Using a 2-inch cookie cutter, cut the semolina mixture into circles. Transfer the scraps to an attractive 10- to 12-inch by 6- to 8-inch baking dish you’ve lightly sprayed with oil. Press the scraps into a mostly smooth layer. Drizzle 2 teaspoons olive oil or butter over this layer and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of the remaining cheese.

3. Arrange the gnocchi circles on top of the scraps, slightly overlapping each circle on the one before it. (The idea is to create an effect that looks like a tiled roof.) Drizzle the remaining oil or butter over this layer and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. The recipe can be made up to 48 hours ahead to this stage. Store in the refrigerator.

4. Preheat the oven to 425°F. Bake the gnocchi until thoroughly heated and lightly browned on top, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve at once.

Note: For a richer, more substantial dish, alternate the gnocchi layers with one of the tomato sauces here and bake as described above.

213 CALORIES PER SERVING; 12 G PROTEIN; 7 G FAT; 2 G SATURATED FAT; 25 G CARBOHYDRATE; 546 MG SODIUM; 14 MG CHOLESTEROL

GNOCCHI WITH TURKEY SAUSAGE AND MUSTARD GREENS

Serves 4

This dish is fairly brimming with flavor. Turkey sausage can be found at gourmet shops and most supermarkets. (Choose the leanest you can find.) Grilling gives the sausage a smoky flavor and allows you to cook out the excess fat. The arugula adds color and heat. Gnocchi is a tiny Italian potato dumpling, of course, but there’s also a gnocchi pasta that looks like an elongated ridged shell.

12 ounces turkey sausage (2 links)

8 ounces gnocchi pasta (or small shells)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 stalks celery, finely chopped

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ cup dry white vermouth or white wine

2 ripe tomatoes, cut into ½-inch dice

2 cups Chicken Stock (see here)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large bunch arugula (3 to 4 cups), stemmed, washed, and cut crosswise into ½-inch strips

3 to 4 tablespoons grated romano cheese

1. Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot for cooking the pasta. Preheat the grill or broiler. Prick the sausage all over with a pin or toothpick. (This allows the steam to escape.) Grill or broil the sausage until cooked, about 4 minutes per side. Thinly slice the sausage on the diagonal. Transfer the slices to a plate lined with paper towels and blot dry.

2. Cook the gnocchi pasta in the rapidly boiling water until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain the pasta in a colander.

3. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large non-stick frying pan. Cook the onion, celery, pepper, garlic, coriander, and cumin over medium heat until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Stir in the vermouth and bring to a boil. Stir in the tomatoes, sausage, stock, salt, and pepper and simmer the sauce until richly flavored and slightly reduced, about 4 minutes.

4. Stir in the pasta and cook until thoroughly heated and the stock is partially absorbed, about 2 minutes. Stir in the arugula and serve at once, with the cheese on the side for sprinkling.

477 CALORIES PER SERVING; 27 G PROTEIN; 13 G FAT; 4 G SATURATED FAT; 57 G CARBOHYDRATE; 839 MG SODIUM; 61 MG CHOLESTEROL

TYROLEAN DUMPLINGS
(CANEDERLI TIROLESI)

Makes 12 1½-inch dumplings, enough to serve 4 to 6

Most of us think of Italy as the epicenter of Mediterranean cooking. But majestically mountainous northern Italy shares the Alpine soul—and cuisine—of its northern neighbors, Austria and Switzerland. Consider the following dumplings, which are reminiscent of Austria’s Semelknoedeln (bread dumplings).

6 cups chicken broth

1 egg, plus 2 egg whites

⅔ cup 2 percent milk or skim milk

⅓ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus 2 tablespoons for serving

1 ounce prosciutto, finely chopped

3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 cups finely diced stale crustless white bread

½ cup dried bread crumbs, plus ¾ cup for rolling the dumplings

1. Bring the stock to a simmer in a deep saucepan.

2. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the egg, egg whites, milk, cheese, prosciutto, parsley, salt, and pepper. Stir in the diced bread and enough bread crumbs to obtain a mixture you can mold into balls with your hands.

3. Wet your hands with cold water and roll the bread mixture into dumplings a little larger than walnuts. Transfer the finished dumplings to a sheet of waxed paper and chill for 30 minutes. Place the remaining bread crumbs in a shallow bowl.

4. Just before cooking, roll each dumpling in the remaining bread crumbs, shaking off the excess. Gently lower the dumplings into the simmering broth. Poach over medium-low heat until firm, 10 to 15 minutes. Be sure the dumplings remain covered by broth.

5. To serve, transfer the dumplings to soup bowls and ladle the broth over them. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top and serve at once.

307 CALORIES PER SERVING;^* 19 G PROTEIN; 7 G FAT; 2.6 G SATURATED FAT; 41 G CARBOHYDRATE; 1,029 MG SODIUM; 45 MG CHOLESTEROL

PUMPKIN AGNOLOTTI

Makes 32 to 40 agnolotti, enough to serve 6 to 8 as an appetizer, 4 to 5 as an entrée

Agnolotti are round ravioli. This version features a savory pumpkin filling I first sampled in Parma. The crumbled amaretti (almond cookies) provide a sweet, nutty touch. Amaretti are available at Italian markets and most gourmet shops.

FOR THE FILLING:

1½ pounds trimmed fresh pumpkin or butternut squash (1½ cups puréed cooked flesh)

2 to 3 amaretti, crumbled (about 2 tablespoons)

3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 egg white

salt and freshly ground black pepper

a whisper of nutmeg

3 to 5 tablespoons toasted bread crumbs (or as needed)

TO FINISH THE AGNOLOTTI:

1 recipe any of the homemade pastas here

1 egg white, lightly beaten

1. Prepare the filling: Preheat the oven to 400°F. Loosely wrap the pumpkin in foil and bake until soft, about 40 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Purée the pumpkin and amaretti in a food processor or mash with a fork in a mixing bowl. Still using the processor, work in the cheese, egg white, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste: the filling should be highly seasoned. Add enough bread crumbs to obtain a soft but dry filling: it should be the consistency of soft ice cream.

2. Roll out the pasta dough through the thinnest setting on your machine to make 2 sheets about 40 inches long and 5 inches wide. Lay one of these sheets on a work surface and brush the top with the beaten egg white. Using a piping bag fitted with a ½-inch round tip or using a spoon, place small mounds of the filling (about 1 tablespoon each) in 2 neat rows on top of the dough strip, 1½ inches apart. Bring 4 quarts lightly salted water to a boil in a large pot.

3. Lay the second sheet of pasta on top. Press with your fingertips between the mounds of filling to seal the two pasta sheets together. Using a fluted round pastry cutter (1½ inches in diameter), cut out the agnolotti and transfer them to a wire rack. Pasta scraps can be gathered together and rerolled. (If you wish to freeze the agnolotti for later use, place them on a baking sheet in the freezer. Once frozen, pack in a zip-top plastic bag.)

4. Cook the agnolotti in rapidly boiling water until they are al dente, about 6 minutes. Drain in a colander and serve at once. I like to serve these agnolotti in bowls with chicken broth or vegetable broth to cover and a grating of Parmesan cheese.

283 CALORIES PER SERVING;^* 12 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 45 G CARBOHYDRATE; 161 MG SODIUM; 73 MG CHOLESTEROL

RAVIOLI RAPIDISSIMO

Makes 40 ravioli, enough to serve 8 to 10 as an appetizer, 4 to 5 as an entrée

Authenticity versus convenience. Nutrition versus taste. As an author writing about low-fat cooking in a hurried age, I constantly wrestle with conflicting values. On the one hand, I certainly strive to chronicle the proper way to cook a particular dish. On the other, I want to write recipes that people will actually cook. While writing my High-Flavor, Low-Fat Pasta book, I discovered that Italian ravioli could be made with Chinese eggroll wrappers and dumpling skins. The result isn’t really Italian, of course, but it’s quite tasty. Wonton wrappers enable you to enjoy traditional Italian fillings, such as the mushroom filling here and the pumpkin filling here, in a fraction of the time that it would take to make Italian pasta from scratch. I offer the following recipe to the time-harried cook who doesn’t mind mixing cultures. A replacement for real ravioli? No. But my wife and I enjoy ravioli rapidissimo from time to time, and so will you.

salt

40 3-inch Chinese dumpling wrappers or wonton wrappers (round or square) or 10 large eggroll wrappers (if using eggroll wrappers, cut each in quarters)

1 egg white, lightly beaten

one of the following fillings:pumpkin filling (here) mushroom filling (here)

1. Bring 4 quarts salted water to a boil. Lay the wrappers out on a work surface. Very lightly brush the edges of each wrapper with egg white. Place a small spoonful of filling in the center of each. Fold the wrapper in half and pinch the edges, starting at one side and working around to the other, to seal in the filling. (If using a square wrapper, fold it in half on the diagonal.)

2. Cook the ravioli in boiling water until tender, about 2 minutes. Drain in a colander and serve with any of the sauces here.

171 CALORIES PER SERVING;^* 6 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 28 G CARBOHYDRATE; 93 MG SODIUM; 3 MG CHOLESTEROL

SHRIMP RAVIOLI WITH ROASTED RED PEPPER SAUCE

Makes about 36 ravioli, which will serve 9 as an appetizer or 4 to 6 as an entrée

East meets West in this recipe—ravioli filled with gingery shrimp mousse and served on a colorful pepper sauce. For speed and convenience, I make the ravioli with wonton wrappers, which are widely available in the produce section of most supermarkets. (Good brands include Leasa and Frieda’s.) The purist can certainly use homemade pasta.

FOR THE SHRIMP MOUSSE:

1 8-ounce can water chestnuts, drained

8 ounces peeled, deveined shrimp

1 garlic clove, minced

1 scallion, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon soy sauce

½ teaspoon sugar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Roasted Red Pepper Sauce (see below)

1 package wonton wrappers (36 three-inch squares)

¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro or scallion greens

1. Finely chop the water chestnuts in a food processor and transfer to a mixing bowl. Purée the shrimp in the food processor. Add the garlic, scallion, ginger, soy sauce, sugar, and salt and pepper and purée again. Stir the shrimp mousse into the water chestnuts. Correct the seasoning, adding salt to taste: The mixture should be highly seasoned. (Note: To taste the mixture for seasoning without eating raw shrimp, cook a tiny bit of mousse on the end of a spoon in boiling water.) Prepare the Roasted Red Pepper Sauce. Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot for cooking the ravioli.

2. Spread a few wonton wrappers on a work surface. Lightly brush the edges with water. Place a teaspoon of shrimp mousse in the center of each and fold it in half on the diagonal. Starting at one end and continuing to the other, seal the edges by gently patting with your fingers. It’s important to make a hermetic seal. Assemble the remaining ravioli in this fashion. Transfer the finished ravioli to a cake rack.

3. Cook the ravioli in the boiling water until the pasta is translucent and the filling is firm and white, about 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the ravioli in a colander. Spoon the pepper sauce on plates or a platter and arrange the ravioli on top. Sprinkle with cilantro or scallion greens and serve at once.

234 CALORIES PER SERVING;^* 17 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 30 G CARBOHYDRATE; 157 MG SODIUM; 139 MG CHOLESTEROL

ROASTED RED PEPPER SAUCE

Makes 1½ cups

This is the one dish in this book you can burn. Indeed, charring the bell peppers gives them an inimitable sweet-smoky flavor that makes the sauce delicious enough to eat straight off a spoon. A yellow bell pepper sauce can be made the same way.

2 large red bell peppers

1 garlic clove, chopped

1 cup Vegetable Stock or Chicken Stock (see here, here), or as needed

1½ tablespoons balsamic or wine vinegar, or to taste

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon saffron threads soaked in 1 tablespoon warm water (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

pinch of cayenne pepper

1. Roast the peppers over high heat on a barbecue grill, under a broiler, or directly over a gas or electric burner until charred and black on all sides. Turn as necessary with tongs: The whole process should take 8 to 10 minutes. Wrap the charred peppers in wet paper towels and let cool.

2. Scrape the charred skin off the peppers, using the tip of a paring knife. (Don’t worry if you leave a few charred bits behind.) Core the peppers and scrape out the seeds, working over a strainer and bowl to catch the juices.

3. Place all the ingredients for the sauce (including the pepper juices) in a blender and purée until smooth. The sauce should be pourable: If too thick, add a little more stock. Correct the seasoning, adding salt, vinegar, or cayenne to taste: The sauce should be highly seasoned.

43 CALORIES PER SERVING; 1 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 0 G SATURATED FAT; 3 G CARBOHYDRATE; 3 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

QUICK SUMMER PASTA WITH TOMATOES AND ARUGULA

Serves 4

Here’s a perfect pasta dish for the dog days of summer. All you need to cook are the noodles. The sauce—a coarse purée of fresh tomatoes and herbs—is “cooked” by the warm pasta. My favorite cheese for serving with this pasta is ricotta salata—a firm, snappy grating or shaving cheese made by pressing and aging ricotta.

3 cups ridged tube-shaped pasta, like penne rigati salt

2 ripe tomatoes, peeled and very finely chopped (about 1½ cups)

1 to 2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon capers, drained

1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, or to taste

freshly ground black pepper

1 bunch arugula, washed, stemmed, and thinly slivered (see the box here)

1 to 2 ounces ricotta salata or Pecorino Romano cheese

1. Cook the pasta in a large pot in at least 4 quarts rapidly boiling salted water until al dente, about 8 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the tomatoes, garlic, capers, oil, and vinegar in a large heatproof serving bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste.

2. When the pasta is cooked, drain well in a colander and stir it into the tomato mixture. Stir in the arugula. Correct the seasoning, adding salt or vinegar to taste. Serve at once, with shaved or grated ricotta salata on top.

199 CALORIES PER SERVING; 7 G PROTEIN; 8 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 25 G CARBOHYDRATE; 119 MG SODIUM; 33 MG CHOLESTEROL

SPAGHETTI WITH RED-HOT TOMATO SAUCE

Serves 4 to 6

Does the world really need another recipe for tomato sauce? If it’s this thick, spicy red sauce, pepped up with olives, capers, and pepper flakes, the answer is unequivocally yes! This recipe is loosely modeled on my friend Myrna Mirow’s putanesca sauce.

FOR THE SAUCE:

2½ pounds fresh ripe tomatoes (4 to 6 regular tomatoes, or 12 to 16 plum tomatoes), or 1½ 28-ounce cans

1 tablespoon olive oil

5 shallots, minced (⅓ cup)

5 cloves garlic, minced (5 teaspoons)

1 tablespoon tomato paste

3 tablespoons finely chopped capers

3 tablespoons finely chopped pimiento-stuffed green olives

1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (or to taste)

⅓ cup finely chopped fresh herbs (basil, oregano, tarragon, chervil, parsley, and/or chives); reserve 2 tablespoons for garnish

salt and freshly ground black pepper

salt

1 pound spaghetti or dried bucatini, or 1½ pounds fresh

3–4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano (or other Parmesan-style cheese)

To make the sauce, peel, seed, and finely chop the tomatoes, working over a strainer and bowl to collect the juice. Heat the oil in a large saucepan. Cook the shallots and garlic over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, or until soft but not brown.

Stir in the tomatoes, 3 to 4 tablespoons reserved tomato juice, tomato paste, capers, olives, and pepper flakes, and cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, or until reduced to a thick sauce. If the mixture seems too dry, add a little reserved tomato juice or water. Stir in the herbs. Season with salt and pepper.

Just before serving, bring at least 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Add salt to taste. Boil the pasta for 6 to 8 minutes, or until cooked but still al dente. Drain and transfer it to a large bowl. Spoon the sauce over it and sprinkle with the reserved herbs. Serve the cheese on the side.

605 CALORIES PER SERVING; 21 G PROTEIN; 9 G FAT; 112 G CARBOHYDRATE; 357 MG SODIUM; 4 MG CHOLESTEROL

Spaghetti with Red-Hot Tomato Sauce

FUSILLI WITH MINTED TOMATO SAUCE

Serves 4

This dish should be made only at the height of tomato season, when the gardens and farm stands are brimming with luscious, vine-ripened tomatoes. The virtue of this sauce lies in its simplicity: it isn’t even cooked!

FOR THE SAUCE:

4 fresh ripe tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced (1 teaspoon)

3 scallions, whites minced, greens finely chopped

1–3 jalapeño chilies (or to taste), seeded and minced or thinly sliced

1 cup finely chopped fresh mint or cilantro

½ teaspoon ground cumin

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper

salt

½ pound dried fusilli

2–3 tablespoons thinly sliced black olives, for garnish (optional)

To make the sauce, place the tomatoes, garlic, scallions, chilies, mint, cumin, lime juice, and oil in a food processor and grind to a coarse purée. Correct the seasoning, adding salt, pepper, and lime juice to taste.

Just before serving, bring at least 4 quarts water to a boil in a large pot. Add salt to taste. Boil the fusilli for 6 to 8 minutes, or until cooked but still al dente. Drain the pasta and transfer it to a large bowl. Stir in the sauce. Sprinkle the olive slices (if using) on top and serve at once.

306 CALORIES PER SERVING; 9 G PROTEIN; 7 G FAT; 53 G CARBOHYDRATE; 15 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

MAKING THE DOUGH

HAND METHOD

FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD

MIXER METHOD

MAKING PASTA WITH AN EXTRUDER-TYPE MACHINE

ROLLING OUT THE DOUGH

HAND METHOD

MACHINE METHOD

HAND METHOD

MACHINE METHOD

COOKING THE PASTA

SPINACH PASTA

TOMATO PASTA

LEMON PEPPER PASTA

HAND METHOD

FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD

MIXER METHOD

TYROLEAN DUMPLINGS(CANEDERLI TIROLESI)

FOR THE FILLING:

TO FINISH THE AGNOLOTTI:

SHRIMP RAVIOLI WITH ROASTED RED PEPPER SAUCE

FOR THE SHRIMP MOUSSE:

QUICK SUMMER PASTA WITH TOMATOES AND ARUGULA

FOR THE SAUCE:

FOR THE SAUCE:

TYROLEAN DUMPLINGS
(CANEDERLI TIROLESI)