VEGETABLES
STUFFED ARTICHOKES
Makes 12 pieces
The Italian love for artichokes can scarcely be overstated. Italians have as many ways to prepare artichokes as we do potatoes. I’ve called for small artichokes in this recipe, but you could also use full-size globe artichokes (see Note).
6 small artichokes
½ lemon, plus 1 teaspoon grated fresh lemon zest for the stuffing
salt
FOR THE STUFFING:
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1 ounce prosciutto, finely chopped
1 cup toasted bread crumbs, preferably homemade (here)
3 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Cut the ends off the artichoke stems, leaving about 1-inch of stem. Rub the cut end with lemon. Cut off the top third of each artichoke and rub with lemon. Cut each artichoke lengthwise in half and scrape out the “choke” (the fibrous center) with a melon baller. Rub the artichokes with lemon as you work to keep them from discoloring. Put the trimmed artichokes in a bowl of cold water with a squeeze of lemon juice until you’re ready to cook them.
2. Cook the artichokes in 4 quarts boiling salted water until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain in a colander, rinse under cold water, and drain again. Arrange the artichoke halves, cut side up, in an attractive baking dish.
3. Prepare the stuffing: Heat half the olive oil in a nonstick frying pan. Add the onion, celery, and prosciutto and cook over medium heat until soft but not brown, about 4 minutes. Stir in the bread crumbs, the parsley, half the Parmesan, and salt and pepper to taste. Distribute the stuffing evenly among the cavities of the artichoke halves. The recipe can be prepared ahead to this stage and stored in the refrigerator for several hours.
4. Preheat the oven to 400°F. or heat the broiler. Just before serving, drizzle the remaining olive oil over the stuffed artichokes or lightly spray with oil. Sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan cheese. Bake the artichokes until thoroughly heated and the stuffing is lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. The artichokes can be served either hot or at room temperature.
Note: To make this dish using full-size globe artichokes, cut them lengthwise in quarters. Trim off the tough parts of the leaves and the fibrous choke. Arrange the artichoke quarters in a baking dish, leaf side down, and mound the stuffing where the choke used to be.
79 CALORIES PER PIECE; 4 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 0.8 G SATURATED FAT; 11 G CARBOHYDRATE; 193 MG SODIUM; 4 MG CHOLESTEROL
RAPINI WITH GARLIC AND OYSTER SAUCE
Serves 4
Here’s a great street dish I encountered on my culinary peregrinations through Thailand. In Asia, it is made with Chinese broccoli (gai lan). In this country, it’s easier to find a related vegetable, a leafy cousin of broccoli called rapini (also known as broccoli rabe, brocoletto, and brocoletti de rape).
1 pound rapini
1½ tablespoons canola oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
8 cloves garlic, peeled
½ pound fresh shiitake, straw, or button mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
4 teaspoons oyster sauce (or to taste)
2 teaspoons fish sauce (or to taste)
freshly ground white pepper
Wash the rapini well and dry. Trim off the ends and cut into 2-inch pieces.
Just before serving, heat a wok over high heat. Swirl in the oil. Add the ginger and garlic, and cook for 20 seconds, or until fragrant. Add the rapini and mushrooms, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce, and white pepper, and stir-fry for 1 minute more, or until the greens are tender-crisp. Correct the seasoning, adding oyster sauce and fish sauce to taste, and serve at once. (You’re not supposed to eat the garlic cloves, but you certainly can if you want to. I do!)
79 CALORIES PER SERVING; 5 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 9 G CARBOHYDRATE; 475 MG SODIUM; 1 MG CHOLESTEROL
BLUE CABBAGE
Serves 6 to 8
Trudy Cutrone, who once owned New Hampshire’s Snowvillage Inn, introduced me to blaukraut (“blue cabbage”). The cabbage isn’t so much blue as pale lavender—a color that results when you add the vinegar. The Old World version is made with bacon fat, which I’ve replaced with olive oil.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons sugar (or to taste)
¼ cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon dry red wine
1 head red cabbage (about 2 pounds), cored and thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
1½ cups water (approximately)
2 tart apples, peeled, cored, and coarsely grated
1 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
3–4 tablespoons bread crumbs
Heat the oil in a large, nonreactive sauté pan (not aluminum or cast iron). Cook the onion over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes, or until soft. Stir in the sugar and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until lightly caramelized.
Stir in the vinegar and ¼ cup wine, and bring the mixture to a boil. Add the cabbage, salt, pepper, spices, and water (barely to cover). Bring the cabbage to a boil, reduce the heat, and gently simmer, covered, for 20 minutes, or until the cabbage is tender-crisp.
Add the apples and simmer, uncovered, for 5 to 10 minutes or until most of the liquid is absorbed and the cabbage is tender but not mushy. Stir in the zest, remaining 1 tablespoon wine, and enough bread crumbs to absorb any excess liquid. Correct the seasoning, adding salt, vinegar, and sugar to taste. The cabbage should be a little sweet and a little sour.
135 CALORIES PER SERVING; 2 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 26 G CARBOHYDRATE; 15 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
ROSEMARY-ROASTED CARROTS
Serves 4
Like so much other Italian cooking, this recipe is simplicity itself. But I know of no other cooking method that produces tastier carrots (or other root vegetables). High-heat roasting is a great way to intensify the flavor of vegetables, evaporating the water in them to concentrate the flavor and caramelizing the natural sugars.
1 pound carrots
1 head garlic
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, or 1 tablespoon dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. If using whole carrots, peel them and cut them into 2-inch sections. Break the garlic into individual cloves, leaving the skin intact on each. Place the carrots, garlic, olive oil, rosemary, salt, and pepper in a roasting pan or baking dish just large enough to hold them. Toss to mix.
2. Roast the carrots, stirring from time to time, until browned and tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Serve at once.
95 CALORIES PER SERVING; 2 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 0.5 G SATURATED FAT; 15 G CARBOHYDRATE; 75 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
GRILLED CORN IN THE STYLE OF OAXACA
Serves 6
I’ve always loved corn on the cob—especially when it’s grilled over an open fire. But I’ve never had anything quite like the corn served by the street vendors of Oaxaca: the ears charred over charcoal braziers, slathered with mayonnaise, then sprinkled with grated cheese, chili powder, and lime juice. The combination will surely strike you as weird, but I promise that you’ll grow to love it. I’ve pretty much left the recipe intact; however, I mix the mayonnaise with a little no-fat sour cream to reduce the overall fat.
6 ears of corn
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons no-fat sour cream
3 tablespoons finely grated queso añnejo, Parmesan cheese, or Romano cheese
1 to 2 tablespoons pure chili powder
2 limes, cut into wedges
spray oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat your grill to high. Shuck the corn by peeling the husks back like banana skins. Leave them attached to the base of the cobs. Tie the husks together; the idea is to create a handle for holding the ear of corn as you eat it.
2. Place the mayonnaise and sour cream in a small serving bowl and stir to mix. Place the cheese, chili powder, and lime wedges in small serving bowls. Have these ingredients ready on the table, with a pastry brush or butter knife for spreading the mayonnaise mixture.
3. Lightly spray each ear of corn with oil and season with the salt and pepper. Grill the corn until it is nicely browned on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes per side, turning with tongs. (Position the corn so that the tied husks hang over the edge of the grill away from the hot coals.) Transfer the corn to a platter.
4. To serve, have each guest brush or spread the mayonnaise mixture on his corn. Sprinkle the ears with cheese and chili powder and squeeze on lime juice to taste.
178 CALORIES PER SERVING; 6 G PROTEIN; 6 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 33 G CARBOHYDRATE; 107 MG SODIUM; 5 MG CHOLESTEROL
SICILIAN STUFFED EGGPLANT
(MELANZANA ALLA SICILIANA)
Serves 8 as an appetizer, 4 as a vegetable side dish
The Italian word for eggplant is melanzana, from the Latin words malum insanum (literally, “mad apple”). In the Middle Ages, eggplants were believed to cause madness, a fear that may have been based on the plant’s close parentage with several highly toxic plants, including deadly nightshade. Times have changed: today, eggplant is almost synonymous with Italian cooking. I like to prepare this dish with baby eggplants (each 3- to 4-inches long), so you can serve individual halves as an antipasto or a vegetable side dish. Baby eggplants are available at Italian markets, specialty greengrocers, and many supermarkets. But larger eggplants could be prepared the same way.
1 to 1¼ pounds eggplant (preferably 4 to 6 baby eggplants), unpeeled
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1 Italian pepper or cubanelle (a small light-green pepper), or ½ green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 large or 2 medium red ripe tomatoes, finely chopped (about 1 cup), with their juices
6 pitted black olives, chopped
1 tablespoon drained capers
6 basil leaves, thinly slivered, or 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
a few drops red wine vinegar or fresh lemon juice (optional)
2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Roast the eggplants in a baking dish in the oven until very tender (squeezably soft on the sides), 20 to 40 minutes (depending on the size of the eggplants). Transfer the eggplants to a cutting board to cool. Cut each in half lengthwise and scoop out the flesh with a spoon, taking care not to pierce the shell. Reserve the shells and chop the flesh.
2. Meanwhile, prepare the filling: Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick frying pan. Add the onion, celery, pepper, and garlic and cook over medium heat until just beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato, olives, capers, and chopped eggplant flesh and cook until the eggplant is soft and most of the tomato juices have been absorbed, about 5 minutes. Stir in the basil and vinegar (if using) and cook for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cheese and salt and pepper to taste: the filling should be highly seasoned. Stuff the filling into the eggplant shells. The eggplants can be served hot or at room temperature. (As part of an antipasto, they’d probably be served at room temperature.) To warm, bake them in a 400°F. oven until thoroughly heated, about 10 minutes.
58 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 2 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 0.6 G SATURATED FAT; 7 G CARBOHYDRATE; 92 MG SODIUM; 1 MG CHOLESTEROL
FENNEL GRATIN
Serves 6
Many Americans live their entire lives without having tasted fennel. Gennaro Villella can hardly imagine a meal without it. The Umbrian-born founding chef of the restaurant Fantino at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in New York slices fennel into salads, simmers it in soups, and even poaches it in sugar syrup to make an offbeat dessert. Here’s a more traditional preparation from Umbria: a creamy fennel gratin that makes a great cool-weather side dish or vegetarian entrée. This recipe features a nontraditional element, a butterless béchamel sauce.
1 large or 2 medium fennel bulbs (1¼ to 1½ pounds)
2 cups skim, 1 percent, or 2 percent milk
1 teaspoon salt
FOR THE BÉCHAMEL SAUCE:
3 tablespoons all-purpose unbleached white flour
⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
1 bay leaf
½ onion
1 clove
2½ cups 2 percent or whole milk or low-fat half-and-half
1 clove garlic
1 stalk celery, trimmed
freshly ground white pepper
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
spray oil
1. Trim the stems, base, and outside leaves off the fennel. Cut the bulb crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices. Place the fennel in a deep, heavy saucepan with the milk, salt to taste, and enough water (3 to 4 cups) to cover the fennel completely. Loosely cover the pan. Simmer the fennel over medium heat until very tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Prepare the béchamel sauce: Have ready a bowl of cold water. Place the flour and nutmeg in a large nonstick saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring steadily with a wooden spoon, until the flour has a pleasant, toasted aroma, about 3 minutes. Do not let it brown or burn. Plunge the pot in the bowl of water to stop the cooking. Let the flour cool completely. Pin the bay leaf to the onion with the clove. Whisk the cold milk into the flour, a little at a time, to create a smooth mixture free of lumps. Return the mixture to the saucepan with the onion, garlic, and celery. Gradually bring the mixture to a boil, whisking steadily. Reduce the heat and gently simmer the sauce until thick and well flavored, about 10 minutes. (It should thickly coat the back of a spoon.) Add salt and pepper (and a little more nutmeg if desired) to taste. Remove the pan from the heat and fish out and discard the onion, garlic, and celery. Whisk in half the Parmesan.
3. Spray a 12-inch baking dish with oil and spoon ⅓ of the béchamel sauce into the baking dish. Arrange the fennel slices on top, slightly overlapping. Spoon the remaining sauce on top and sprinkle with the remaining Parmesan. The recipe can be prepared ahead to this stage.
4. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake the fennel gratin until thoroughly heated and browned on top, about 20 minutes. Serve at once.
Note: For a crustier gratin, you can sprinkle the top with 2 to 3 tablespoons toasted bread crumbs before baking.
169 CALORIES PER SERVING; 11 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 3 G SATURATED FAT; 21 G CARBOHYDRATE; 659 MG SODIUM; 14 MG CHOLESTEROL
GRILLED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH GARLIC AND SAGE
Makes 24 to 32 pieces, enough to serve 8 to 12
The Italian food revolution of the 1980s introduced many new ingredients to the American larder, including the Portobello mushroom, a jumbo, dark-gilled cousin of Agaricus bisporus, the common white mushroom. Portobellos are great for grilling, thanks to their large size, and they acquire a smoky, meaty flavor when cooked over fire. The antipasto version of this dish calls for the portobellos to be cut into triangles and served at the end of bamboo skewers. I like to top them with strips of grilled red peppers. You can also serve the portobellos sliced into strips in salads or whole as a first course.
4 large Portobello mushrooms (4 inches across)
4 cloves garlic, cut into slivers
4 sage leaves, cut widthwise into thin strips
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar or fresh lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 red bell pepper (optional)
1. Cut the stems off the mushrooms (reserve for stock). Using the tip of a paring knife, make 10 to 12 narrow slits in the top (rounded part) of each Portobello. Insert a sliver of garlic and a strip of sage leaf into each slit. Combine the olive oil and vinegar in a mixing bowl and whisk in salt and pepper to taste. Add any leftover garlic or sage. Place the portobellos in a baking dish and brush or spoon the marinade over the mushrooms, turning to coat both sides. Let marinate for 1 hour.
2. Preheat the grill to medium-high. Grill the portobellos until nicely charred on the outside and cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes per side. (Start grilling with the rounded part down.) Brush the bell pepper, if using, with any leftover marinade and grill it until nicely charred, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the vegetables toa plate to cool.
3. Cut the portobellos into bite-sized wedges or triangles. Core and seed the pepper, if using, and cut into wedges, strips, or triangles smaller than the mushrooms. Place a piece of pepper on top of each Portobello and impale with a small bamboo skewer.
47 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 2 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 0.3 G SATURATED FAT; 3 G CARBOHYDRATE; 4 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
STUFFED ONIONS IN THE STYLE OF SAN GIMIGNANO
Makes 6 pieces
San Gimignano is one of the most scenic hill towns in Tuscany, a medieval walled city with tall towers (once used for hanging and drying dyed fabrics) that create an almost Manhattanesque silhouette against the Tuscan sky. I watched these stuffed onions being made through the back door of a restaurant kitchen and was invited in to try them. They make a wonderful accompaniment to the Rosemary-Roasted Pork Loin here.
3 medium onions (each weighing about 6 ounces), unpeeled
salt
1 carrot, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice
spray oil (or a little olive oil)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium zucchini or yellow squash, scrubbed and cut into ¼-inch dice
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice
4 basil leaves, thinly sliced, or ½ teaspoon dried
3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (optional)
freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons dried bread crumbs (optional)
1. Cook the onions in their skins in boiling salted water to cover until tender, about 15 minutes. Add the carrots the last 2 minutes. Drain the onions and carrots, rinse with cold water, and let cool.
2. Using a sharp knife, cut ¼-inch off the top and bottom of each onion (so it will sit straight without wobbling), then cut the onion in half crosswise. Slip off the skin. Gently remove the inside layers of the onions to create a hollow cup. Cut the inside layers into ¼-inch dice and reserve for the stuffing. Work gently and carefully, as the onion will have a tendency to fall apart. Place the onion halves in an attractive ovenproof baking dish lightly sprayed or brushed with oil.
3. Prepare the stuffing: Heat half the olive oil in a nonstick frying pan. Add the diced onion, carrot, zucchini, and bell pepper. Cook over medium heat until the vegetables are just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the basil, Parmesan (if using), and black pepper. Correct the seasoning, adding salt if needed. Stuff this mixture into the onion halves. Sprinkle the bread crumbs on top, if using, and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. The onions can be prepared ahead to this stage.
4. Just before serving, preheat the oven to 400°F. Bake the onions until thoroughly heated, about 10 minutes.
79 CALORIES PER PIECE; 2 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 0.3 G SATURATED FAT; 12 G CARBOHYDRATE; 7 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
SWEET AND SOUR ROASTED PEPPERS
Serves 6 to 8
Roasted peppers are such a part of Italy’s culinary landscape, it’s hard to image an antipasto spread without them. This recipe features one of my favorite techniques for high-flavor, low-fat cooking: high-heat roasting. The process is easier and cleaner than grilling peppers, but you still get the sweet, smoky flavor that comes from charring the pepper skins and caramelizing the natural sugars in the peppers.
2 red bell peppers
2 yellow bell peppers
2 green bell peppers
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 springs fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried
salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅓ cup balsamic vinegar
1 to 2 tablespoons honey
1. Preheat the oven to 450°F. Cut the pepper flesh off the core and seeds. To do so, make four broad cuts from the top of the pepper to the bottom, one on each side. (The core and scraps can be saved for the Basic Vegetable Stock here.) Cut each side in half lengthwise to obtain strips that are 3 inches long and 1 inch wide.
2. Place the peppers in a nonstick roasting pan and toss with 2 teaspoons of the olive oil, the thyme, salt, and pepper. Roast the peppers in the oven until nicely browned, 10 to 15 minutes, gently stirring from time to time to prevent burning. Remove the pan from the oven and let the peppers cool.
3. Prepare the sauce: Boil the balsamic vinegar until reduced by half. Whisk in the honey, the remaining olive oil, any pepper juices that have accumulated in the roasting pan, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 1 minute. Correct the seasoning, adding salt or honey to taste.
4. To serve, arrange the peppers on a platter in rows or circles, with the pieces overlapping to create a colorful design. Spoon the sauce over the peppers and serve. The recipe can be prepared several hours ahead to this stage.
Note: You can make a virtually fat-free version of this dish by tossing the peppers with 1 teaspoon olive oil before roasting and omitting the remaining olive oil from the sauce.
104 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 2 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; .5 G SATURATED FAT; 18 G CARBOHYDRATE; 4 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
MUSHROOM-STUFFED ANAHEIM CHILIES WITH SWEET CORN SALSA
Serves 4 (2 chilies per person)
These mushroom-stuffed chilies make a stunning vegetarian appetizer—especially when coupled with the creamy sweet corn sauce here. There are lots of options for chilies: You can use Anaheim chilies, New Mexican green chilies, even small poblanos. Don’t be intimidated by the large number of ingredients; the recipe is really just a series of simple steps. The contrast in flavors—gently fiery chilies, earthy mushrooms, sweet corn—is breathtaking.
8 long, slender, fresh green chilies, such as Anaheim or New Mexican
FOR THE MUSHROOM STUFFING:
12 ounces button mushrooms, trimmed
2 teaspoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
¼ cup chopped white onion
1 clove garlic
3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, plus 4 sprigs for garnish
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 batch sweet corn sauce (Salsa de Maíz); see here
1. Roast and peel the peppers. Make a T-shaped cut in the side of each chili. (The long side of the T should run the length of the chili.) Pinch together the ends of the chili to open the slit. Using a grapefruit spoon or the tip of a small paring knife, remove the seeds and veins.
2. To prepare the filling, wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel. Cut any large mushrooms in quarters, medium-size ones in half. Finely chop the mushrooms by hand or in a food processor. (If using the processor, work in several batches, so as to not fill the bowl more than a third of the way. Run the machine in short bursts. Overfilling the processor bowl, or overprocessing, will turn the mushrooms to mush.) Sprinkle with lime juice.
3. Heat the oil in a nonstick skillet. Add the onion and garlic and cook over medium heat until they are soft but not brown, 3 minutes. Increase the heat to high and add the mushrooms and cilantro. Cook until all the mushroom liquid has evaporated and the mixture is thick, 5 to 8 minutes, stirring often. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Using a small spoon, stuff the mushroom mixture into the chilies.
4. To serve, warm the chilies in a preheated 400°F. oven. Spoon the corn sauce over the bottom of four plates. Arrange two chilies side by side on top of the sauce, the first going one way, the second going the other way. Garnish with the sprigs of cilantro and serve at once.
257 CALORIES PER SERVING; 12 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 46 G CARBOHYDRATE; 370 MG SODIUM; 3 MG CHOLESTEROL
Assorted Chili Peppers
ROASTED POBLANO CHILIES STUFFED WITH FRUITED PICADILLO
(SERVED WITH POMEGRANATES AND WALNUT SAUCE) (CHILES EN NOGADA)
Serves 4
This complex dish—created more than a century ago by the Augustine nuns of Puebla—is one of the high holies of Mexican cuisine: fire-charred poblano chilies stuffed with a spiced, fruited picadillo and cloaked in a thick, creamy sauce flavored with walnuts. It’s also a patriotic dish, as the white sauce, green chilies, and ruby red pomegranate seeds echo the colors of the Mexican flag. Alas, chilies en nogada is a nutritional nightmare, as the traditional version contains fatty pork, batter-fried chilies, and a sauce whose main ingredients are heavy cream and cheese. Fortunately, it’s a dish that lends itself to a high-flavor, low-fat makeover. To decrease the amount of fat in the filling, I use lean pork loin. The chilies are served in all their fire-charred glory, but without the batter and deep-frying. (As far as I’m concerned, the batter just camouflages the smoke flavor.) As for the sauce, my low-fat version is built from evaporated skim milk, no-fat sour cream, and low-fat cream cheese. Here, then, is a dish that would make a proud centerpiece for any dinner, with much less fat than found in the original.
8 large poblano chilies
1 batch Fruit and Nut Picadillo (following)
FOR THE WALNUT SAUCE:
⅓ cup walnuts (2 ounces)
¾ cup evaporated skim milk
¾ cup no-fat sour cream
2 ounces low- or no-fat cream cheese
1 ounce queso fresco or feta cheese
1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon chopped onion
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon cream sherry
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 fresh pomegranate, broken into seeds
4 sprigs parsley
1. Roast, peel, and seed the chilies for stuffing, as described in the previous recipe. Make the picadillo (following) and let cool.
2. To prepare the sauce, toast the walnuts in a 400°F. oven until they’re fragrant and just beginning to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. (Toasting the nuts enhances their flavor.) Combine the nuts, evaporated milk, sour cream, cream cheese, queso fresco, garlic, onion, cilantro, sherry, and cinnamon in a blender and purée until smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste. The recipe can be prepared ahead to this stage and then refrigerated. The sauce is traditionally served at room temperature, so 1 hour before serving, let it warm to room temperature.
3. Just before serving, preheat the oven to 400°F. Using a spoon, stuff the filling through the slits on the sides of the chilies. Place the chilies in an ovenproof serving dish and bake until they’re thoroughly heated, 10 to 15 minutes. Spoon the sauce over the chilies and sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds and sprigs of parsley.
Note: Ringing in at 14 grams of fat per serving, this recipe is on the higher end of the high-flavor, low-fat spectrum. When you stop to consider that traditional chiles en nogada contain 524 calories and a whopping 36 grams of fat per serving, the makeover represents an enormous improvement.
387 CALORIES PER SERVING; 31 G PROTEIN; 14 G FAT; 2 G SATURATED FAT; 38 G CARBOHYDRATE; 266 MG SODIUM; 38 MG CHOLESTEROL
FRUIT AND NUT PICADILLO
Serves 2 as an appetizer or 4 as a filling
This fragrant picadillo (meat hash) is the traditional filling for chiles en nogada (here). I so like the contrast of flavors—the acidic sweetness of pears and peaches, the nutty crunch of toasted almonds, the meatiness of the pork—that I often use it as a stuffing for tortilla dishes (see the flautas here) and even as a dish by itself.
8 ounces lean pork or veal loin, trimmed of all fat
1 large red ripe tomato
1 (2-inch) piece cinnamon stick
3 cloves
2 allspice berries
¼ white onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons lightly toasted slivered almonds
2 tablespoons raisins
2 tablespoons chopped citron (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus 12 whole leaves for garnish
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ pear or apple, coarsely grated or finely chopped
½ peach, coarsely grated or finely chopped (or more apple or pear)
½ cup water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Finely chop the pork by hand or in a food processor. Place it in a large saucepan. Cut the tomato in half widthwise and squeeze out the water and seeds. Grate the tomato, skin side out, on the coarse side of a grater. (This grates the tomato flesh, leaving the skin behind.) Add the tomato to the pork.
2. Tie the cinnamon stick, cloves, and allspice berries in a piece of cheesecloth (or wrap them in foil and perforate it with a fork) and add them to the pork. Add the onion, garlic, almonds, raisins, citron if using, and the chopped parsley, oregano, pear, peach, and water.
3. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the pork is cooked and the excess liquid has evaporated (the filling should be moist but not soupy), about 20 minutes. Remove and discard the spice bundle. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste; the filling should be highly seasoned.
161 CALORIES PER SERVING; 15 G PROTEIN; 6 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 14 G CARBOHYDRATE; 47 MG SODIUM; 30 MG CHOLESTEROL
BAKER’S STYLE POTATOES
Serves 4
In trying to come up with a low-fat gratin, I remembered a recipe I had learned at the La Varenne cooking school in Paris. The potatoes were simmered in veal stock, which made them rich and meltingly tender. The dish was called pommes boulangère, “baker’s-style potatoes,” after a practice popular in the rural France of yesteryear: housewives would drop their casseroles at the local bakery to be cooked while they attended church. Sautéed onions provide as much flavor as the cheese used in traditional gratins. You can make this dish with a variety of root vegetables, including yams and sweet potatoes. It’s a great party dish.
1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 onions, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
4 large potatoes (about 2 pounds)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2–3 cups chicken or veal stock (approximately)
¼ cup bread crumbs
Preheat the broiler. Heat the olive oil in a 10-inch nonstick frying pan with a metal (not plastic) handle. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, over medium heat for 4 to 6 minutes, or until golden brown.
Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and cut into ¼-inch slices. Stir the potatoes into the onions and season with salt and pepper. Add enough stock to cover the potatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until soft. Flatten the potatoes with a fork and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Place the pan under the broiler. Broil for 1 minute, or until the top is crusty and golden brown.
303 CALORIES PER SERVING; 7 G PROTEIN; 6 G FAT; 57 G CARBOHYDRATE; 87 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
Baker’s Style Potatoes
POTATO TOMATO GRATIN
Serves 4 to 6 as a side dish
Potatoes and tomatoes make a delicious combination, the acidity of the latter cutting the starchiness of the former. In this recipe, they’re layered with a little olive oil and cheese in a casserole. The potatoes poach in the liquid from the tomatoes. I like the touch of richness imparted by the little heavy cream. (Who doesn’t!) But don’t worry if your fat budget precludes cream—the casserole will still be delicious without it.
spray olive oil
1 pound starchy potatoes, like Idahos, peeled and thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 to 4 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 to 2 tablespoons heavy cream (optional)
1 pound red ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons toasted bread crumbs
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly spray a 6 × 10-inch baking dish with oil. Arrange a layer of potato slices in the bottom, using about one-third of the potatoes. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a little cheese. Drizzle a little olive oil and heavy cream (if using) on top. Add a layer of tomatoes, using about one-third of the tomatoes. Sprinkle with a little more salt, pepper, cheese, oil, and cream. Repeat the process twice with the remaining potatoes and tomatoes. (The top layer should be tomatoes.) Sprinkle the bread crumbs on top.
2. Bake the casserole until the potatoes are very soft, 1 to 1¼ hours. Serve hot or at room temperature.
197 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 5 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 34 G CARBOHYDRATE; 118 MG SODIUM; 2 MG CHOLESTEROL
BRAISED NEW POTATOES WITH GARLIC AND BAY LEAVES
Serves 4
This dish offers a perfect example how Italians use one or two seasonings to create a dish with symphonic flavors. The potatoes are studded with slivers of bay leaf, which gives them a futuristic appearance. To make a low-fat version of this dish (the original was roasted in butter), I had the idea to braise the potatoes in chicken broth. For extra richness, you could brush the potatoes with a little melted butter or olive oil and still wind up with a low-fat dish.
8 small red potatoes (about 1 pound), scrubbed
2 fresh bay leaves
8 cloves garlic, peeled
1 cup Chicken Stock (here), or Basic Vegetable Stock (here), or as needed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon melted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Make 2 lengthwise cuts in the top of each potato, each about ¼ inch deep. Cut the bay leaves crosswise into ¼-inch slivers. Place a sliver of bay leaf in each slit. Place the potatoes in a roasting pan just large enough to hold them. (A loaf pan works well.) Add the garlic cloves, the chicken stock, and a little salt and pepper.
2. Braise the potatoes, uncovered, until soft, 45 to 60 minutes. During this time, most of the stock will evaporate or be absorbed into the potatoes, but a little should remain to form a sauce. If using the butter, brush it on top of the potatoes. Serve at once, with the sauce and garlic spooned on top. The garlic is edible; the bay leaves are not. HAVE EVERYONE REMOVE THEM BEFORE EATING THE POTATOES.
153 CALORIES PER SERVING; 3 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 2 G SATURATED FAT; 28 G CARBOHYDRATE; 284 MG SODIUM; 12 MG CHOLESTEROL
Note: The bay leaves are for flavor and show only. Be sure to have everyone remove them before eating.
POTATOES WITH ROASTED PEPPERS
(PAPAS CON RAJAS)
Serves 6
Every country has its version of potatoes au gratin. Mexico’s offers the electrifying addition of roasted poblano chilies. To decrease the amount of fat, I’ve cut back on the cheese, adding nonfat sour cream and chicken stock (or vegetable stock) for richness. I also try to use Yukon Gold potatoes, which have a naturally buttery flavor, so you don’t need a lot of extra fat.
6 poblano chilies
4 to 5 Yukon Gold potatoes (about 2 pounds), peeled and cut into 1½-inch chunks
salt
1½ tablespoons lard or canola oil
1 large white onion, thinly sliced
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 cup chicken or vegetable stock
½ cup nonfat sour cream
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup grated queso fresco or sharp white cheddar cheese (optional)
1. Roast the chilies over a high flame or under the broiler, until the skins are charred all over, 8 to 10 minutes. Place the chilies in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let cool for 15 minutes. Scrape the burnt skin off each chili, using a paring knife. Seed and devein the chilies, cutting each into ¼-inch-wide strips.
2. Meanwhile, place the potatoes in a pot with lightly salted cold water to cover. Gradually bring to a boil, reduce the heat slightly, and briskly simmer the potatoes until they are just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain the potatoes, rinse with cold water until they’re cool, and drain well again.
3. Heat the oil in a large nonstick frying pan. Start the onions over a medium flame, lowering the heat as needed to prevent them from burning. Cook until the onions are a deep golden brown, about 8 minutes, adding the garlic halfway through.
4. Add the chicken stock and sour cream and bring to a boil. Stir in the potatoes and chili strips. Boil the mixture until the sauce is thick and richly flavored, 6 to 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the mixture to a platter or serving bowl and sprinkle the optional cheese on top. Serve at once.
208 CALORIES PER SERVING; 5 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 1 G SATURATED FAT; 41 G CARBOHYDRATE; 32 MG SODIUM; 3 MG CHOLESTEROL
MASHED POTATOES WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES
Serves 4 to 6
Italians often pair potatoes and tomatoes—perhaps because the two foods aren’t native to Italy, both having been imported from the New World. The following recipe uses broth for moistening the potatoes, with just a little olive oil added at the end for flavor.
8 dried tomato halves (here) or 12 to 15 store-bought dried tomato halves
1 cup warm Chicken Stock (here), Basic Vegetable Stock (here), or low-fat buttermilk
2 pounds starchy dry potatoes, like Idahos
1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Soak the dried tomatoes in the stock in a bowl until soft, about 30 minutes. Remove the tomatoes with a slotted spoon and squeeze out the stock with your fingers over the bowl. Reserve the stock. Transfer the tomato halves to a cutting board and thinly slice.
2. Peel the potatoes and cut into 1-inch pieces. Place the potatoes in cold, lightly salted water and bring to a boil. Briskly simmer the potatoes until very tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain in a colander. Return the potatoes to the pot and cook over low heat for a few minutes to dry them out. Mash the potatoes with a potato masher.
3. Stir in the tomatoes, half the oil, and enough broth to obtain light, fluffy mashed potatoes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving, drizzle the remaining oil over the potatoes.
235 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 5 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 0.6 G SATURATED FAT; 67 G CARBOHYDRATE; 267 MG SODIUM; 5 MG CHOLESTEROL
TOMATOES STUFFED WITH PIPERATA AND GOAT CHEESE
Makes 8 pieces, enough to serve 4 to 8
Piperata refers to a savory sauté of peppers and onions. It’s found in one form or other throughout the northern Mediterranean, from Spanish sofrito to French pipérade. Piperata can be served as a contorno (vegetable side dish) in its own right, but I like to use it as a stuffing for tomatoes. Stuffed tomatoes can also be served as part of an antipasto.
8 roma (plum) tomatoes
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE PIPERATA:
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus ½ tablespoon for drizzling
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
½ red or yellow bell pepper, finely diced
½ green bell pepper, finely diced
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 ounce soft creamy goat cheese or thinly sliced Pecorino Romano
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut a ½-inch slice off the top (end opposite the stem) of each tomato. Trim the bottoms as necessary so that the tomatoes stand upright. Using a melon baller or small spoon, hollow out each tomato. Coarsely chop the tomato tops and flesh. Season the inside of the tomatoes with salt and pepper.
2. Prepare the piperata: Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a nonstick frying pan. Add the onion, garlic, bell peppers, and parsley. Cook over the medium heat until soft but not brown, about 4 minutes. Add the chopped tomato flesh and cook until the tomato juices evaporate, about 2 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Stuff this mixture into the tomatoes and place a piece of cheese on top. The recipe can be prepared ahead to this stage and stored in the refrigerator.
3. Bake the stuffed tomatoes until the sides are soft and the topping is browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature.
72 CALORIES PER TOMATO; 2 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 0.9 G SATURATED FAT; 9 G CARBOHYDRATE; 25 MG SODIUM; 2 MG CHOLESTEROL
CIDER-GLAZED TURNIPS
Serves 4 to 6
This is a good dish for people who don’t think they like turnips. The cider sweetens the root and neutralizes its radishy aftertaste. For the best results, use tiny new turnips or choose the smallest ones you can buy. Rutabagas, those giant yellow cousins, can be prepared the same way.
1½ pounds turnips
1½ cups fresh apple cider (approximately)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon and/or chives
Peel the turnips. Quarter the larger ones and cut the smaller ones in half to obtain uniform-sized pieces. Place the turnips in a heavy saucepan with cider to cover. Add the salt, pepper, and olive oil (if using).
Cook the turnips, uncovered, over high heat for 10 minutes, or until tender, stirring from time to time. The cider should be reduced to a syrupy glaze. If the liquid evaporates before the turnips are completely cooked, add more cider. If the turnips are soft before the cider forms a glaze, remove them with a slotted spoon. Boil the cider down to a glaze, then return the turnips to the pan. Sprinkle the turnips with the chopped herbs and serve at once.
101 CALORIES PER SERVING; 1 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 18 G CARBOHYDRATE; 87 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
ZUCCHINI WITH MINT
Serves 4
We don’t often think of mint as a traditional Italian seasoning, but fresh mint is popular throughout southern Italy, including Sicily, where it’s used for seasoning everything from tuna to vegetables. Here’s a zucchini recipe, elegant in its simplicity, that can be made in 5 minutes. Try to choose smallish zucchini (6 to 8 ounces each): they’re more delicate and succulent than the larger ones.
1 pound zucchini
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, smashed with the side of a knife or cleaver and peeled
12 fresh mint leaves, thinly slivered, or 2 teaspoons dried mint
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice (optional)
1. Scrub the zucchini and cut into matchstick slivers or ¼-inch slices. Heat the olive oil in a nonstick frying pan. Add the garlic and cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.
2. Add the zucchini, mint, salt, and pepper and continue cooking until the zucchini is tender, 2 to 4 minutes. The zucchini should give off their own juices to make a little sauce. If they seem too dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons water. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste and the lemon juice if desired.
Note: If you don’t have fresh or dried mint in the house, open a mint tea bag. This dish could also be prepared using other herbs, such as basil, oregano, and rosemary.
49 CALORIES PER SERVING; 1 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 0.5 G SATURATED FAT; 4 G CARBOHYDRATE; 4 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
MEXICAN PICKLED VEGETABLES
(ESCABECHE)
Serves 10 to 12
These tangy pickled vegetables turn up in Mexico wherever drinks are served, whenever Mexicans sit down to the table. Given, the snappy crispness and piquant tartness of these colorful vegetables, it’s easy to understand why. Here’s the basic formula; the vegetables and seasonings vary from cook to cook and region to region. The amarillo chili is a small, waxy yellow, cone-shaped chili that’s especially popular for pickling. Serranos and jalapeños work well, too.
2 large carrots, cut into ¼-inch slices
2 stalks celery, cut into ¼-inch slices
1 small zucchini, cut into ¼-inch slices
1 medium white onion, cut in half lengthwise, then widthwise into ¼-inch slices
1 cup cauliflower florets, cut into 1-inch pieces
½ to 1 cup amarillo chilies or serranos, stemmed but left whole
2 cups distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon oregano
1. Combine the carrots, celery, zucchini, onion, cauliflower, and chilies in a large bowl and toss to mix. Transfer the vegetables to clean jars. Press sheets of plastic wrap on top to keep vegetables submerged.
2. Combine the vinegar, salt, bay leaves, and oregano in the bowl and whisk until the salt is dissolved. Pour the vinegar mixture over the vegetables and cover the jars. Let the vegetables pickle at room temperature for 48 hours, stirring once or twice. If you plan to keep the vegetables for longer, store them in the refrigerator (pickled vegetables will keep for several weeks).
3. Serve the pickled vegetables in earthenware bowls with drinks or at any Mexican meal.
23 CALORIES PER SERVING;* 1 G PROTEIN; 0 G FAT; 0 G SATURATED FAT; 1 G CARBOHYDRATE; 1,289 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL
WINTER VEGETABLE PURÉE
Serves 4 to 6
This purée calls for parsnips and celeriacs (celery root), but you can substitute any starchy root vegetable, even winter squash. Serve with Herb-Roasted Game Hens (here) or Braised Brisket with Dried Fruits (here).
1 or 2 celeriacs (1 pound)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 pound parsnips or turnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice
salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil (optional)
¼–½ cup skim milk, warmed
salt and freshly ground white pepper
pinch of cayenne pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or scallion greens, for garnish
Peel the celeriacs with a paring knife and cut into ½-inch dice. Toss the celeriacs with the lemon juice to prevent browning. Place the celeriacs and parsnips in a saucepan with cold salted water or stock to cover. (For extra flavor, but a bit more fat, use part or all chicken stock instead of water.)
Boil the vegetables for 6 to 8 minutes, or until very tender. Drain well (save the liquid for soup), then purée in a food processor or food mill (or mash with a potato masher right in the pot). Work in the oil (if using) and enough warm milk to obtain a cream purée. Correct the seasoning, adding salt, white pepper, cayenne, and nutmeg to taste. Sprinkle the purée with chives and serve at once.
145 CALORIES PER SERVING; 4 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 26 G CARBOHYDRATE; 129 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL