SAUCES AND CONDIMENTS

INDIAN YOGURT MARINADE

Makes 2 cups, enough marinade for 1½ to 2 pounds seafood, poultry, or meat

A tandoor is a giant urn-shaped clay oven in which kebabs that have been marinated in a tangy mixture of yogurt and spices are roasted on vertical skewers. Most Indian restaurants add food coloring to give the marinated meat its traditional Mercurochrome color. I prefer a natural, if paler, look. This marinade is particularly well suited to lamb, chicken, and shrimp.

2 cups nonfat yogurt

1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger

4 cloves garlic, minced (4 teaspoons)

2 jalapeño chilies or other hot chilies, seeded and minced

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons paprika

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

1½ teaspoons ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom

1–2 teaspoons salt (or to taste)

Drain the yogurt in a yogurt funnel or a cheesecloth-lined colander for 2 hours. Place the ginger, garlic, and chilies in a bowl and whisk in the yogurt, lemon juice, bay leaves, and spices. Add the salt.

Marinate seafood for 2 to 3 hours, poultry for 6 hours, and meat overnight, turning once or twice. Remove and discard the bay leaves before serving.

Note: This marinade also makes a great dressing for grain or pasta salads.

13 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 1 G PROTEIN; .4 G FAT; 2 G CARBOHYDRATE; 78 MG SODIUM; 1 MG CHOLESTEROL

42 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; 4 G FAT; 3 G CARBOHYDRATE; 402 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

46 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 1 G PROTEIN; 2 G FAT; 6 G CARBOHYDRATE; 342 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

RED WINE MARINADE

Makes 4½ cups, enough marinade for 2 pounds meat

French chefs use this marinade to give tame meats, such as pork and beef, the sourish tang of wild game. It can also be used with poultry, but it’s a little strong for fish. Juniper berries are small, blue-black berries that are the predominant flavoring in gin.

1 onion, finely chopped

2 carrots, finely chopped

2 stalks celery, finely chopped

3 shallots, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 cups dry red wine

½ cup red wine vinegar

20 peppercorns

5 whole cloves

10 juniper berries (or ¼ cup gin)

3 sprigs parsley

5 bay leaves

1½ teaspoons dried thyme

2 tablespoons olive oil

Place all the ingredients in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Let cool completely. Place the meat in a glass or non-metallic dish. Add the marinade and let sit for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight, turning once or twice.

16 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; .4 G FAT; 1 G CARBOHYDRATE; 3 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

FRESH HERB MARINADE FOR SEAFOOD AND POULTRY

Makes 1 cup, enough marinade for 1½ to 2 pounds seafood or poultry

This simple marinade is good for fish, shrimp, scallops, and chicken breasts. The particular variety of herbs you use is less important than that the herbs be fresh.

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

¼ cup dry vermouth

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 shallots or 1 small onion, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 green bell pepper, 1 poblano chili, or 3 jalapeño chilies, thinly sliced

½ cup finely chopped fresh basil, dill, rosemary, parsley, tarragon, and/or other herbs

Combine the lemon juice, vermouth, salt, and pepper in a small bowl and whisk until all the salt is dissolved. Whisk in the olive oil.

Place half the sliced vegetables, herbs, and lemon juice mixture in a shallow glass dish and cover with the food to be marinated. Add the remaining vegetables, herbs, and lemon juice mixture. Marinate seafood for 2 hours and chicken breasts for 4 hours, turning once or twice.

67 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 1 G PROTEIN; 5 G FAT; 5 G CARBOHYDRATE; 8 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

29 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; 2 G FAT; 3 G CARBOHYDRATE; 45 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

MEXICAN SMOKED CHILI MARINADE

Makes 1 cup, enough marinade for 1½ to 2 pounds seafood, poultry, or meat

Chipotles (smoked jalapeño chilies) add character to this fiery seasoning, which is often used with pork. Chipotles are usually sold canned in tomato paste, but you also see them dried. (If you use dried chilies for this recipe, soften them in hot water and add 2 tablespoons tomato paste.)

1 cup fresh orange juice

¼ cup fresh lime juice

5 canned chipotle chilies, minced, plus 1 tablespoon juice

4 cloves garlic, minced (4 teaspoons)

1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

½ teaspoon each salt and freshly ground black pepper (or to taste)

Combine the orange juice and lime juice in a saucepan and boil until only ½ cup liquid remains. Place this and the remaining ingredients in a blender and purée to a smooth paste.

Spread this paste on the food to be marinated. Marinate seafood for 2 hours, poultry for 4 to 6 hours, and meat overnight, turning once or twice.

6 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; 0 G FAT; 2 G CARBOHYDRATE; 117 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

36 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; 3 G FAT; 3 G CARBOHYDRATE; 260 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

LOW-FAT VINAIGRETTE

Makes ¾ cup

Use this recipe on salads, grilled fish or meat, steamed vegetables, or any dish that needs a quick, flavorful sauce.

1 or 2 shallots, minced

1 small clove garlic, minced (½ teaspoon)

2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2–6 tablespoons olive oil

2–6 tablespoons chicken stock

Combine the shallots, garlic, mustard, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Add the vinegar and lemon juice in a thin stream, whisking until all the salt is dissolved. Gradually whisk in the oil and stock in a thin stream. (Or the ingredients can be combined and shaken in a jar with a tight-fitting lid.) There should be ½ cup liquid in all. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and lemon juice to taste.

24 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; 2 G FAT; 1 G CARBOHYDRATE; 20 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

4 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; 0 G FAT; 1 G CARBOHYDRATE; 131 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

VIETNAMESE DIPPING SAUCE

Makes 1 cup

Nuoc cham is a sweet-sour-salty dipping sauce made with fish sauce, lime juice, and sugar. It’s as indispensable on the Vietnamese table as ketchup and mustard are on our own.

1 carrot

2 cloves garlic, minced (2 teaspoons)

1 shallot, minced

1 fresh hot chili, minced

2 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup fish sauce

¼ cup fresh lime juice

¼ cup water

3 tablespoons rice wine vinegar

Cut the carrot into the thinnest imaginable shreds. (I mean really thin. The easiest way for a Westerner to do this is to shave the carrot into thin strips with a vegetable peeler. Stack the strips up 3 or 4 high and cut lengthwise into hair-thin slivers.)

Combine the garlic, shallot, chili, and sugar in a mortar and pestle, and pound to a smooth paste. Work in the fish sauce, lime juice, water, and vinegar. (Or the ingredients can be combined and shaken in a jar with a tight-fitting lid.) Transfer the sauce to a pretty bowl (or several bowls) and stir in the carrot.

17 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 1 G PROTEIN; 0 G FAT; 4 G CARBOHYDRATE; 52 MG SODIUM; 1 MG CHOLESTEROL

SPICY MIGNONETTE SAUCE

Makes 1¼ cups

This piquant sauce takes its name from the French word for coarsely cracked peppercorns: mignonette. Spoon it over raw oysters and clams on the half shell, or serve as a dipping sauce for cooked seafood.

2 teaspoons black peppercorns

3 tablespoons minced shallots

1 or 2 pickled or fresh jalapeño chilies (or to taste), minced

½ cup red wine vinegar

½ cup dry white wine

salt (optional)

Coarsely crush the peppercorns in a mortar and pestle or under a rolling pin or heavy pot. (The idea here is to obtain large pieces of pepper.) Combine the cracked pepper in a bowl with the remaining ingredients. Correct the seasoning, adding salt to taste, if desired.

6 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; 0 G FAT; 1 G CARBOHYDRATE; 7 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

MOLASSES BARBECUE SAUCE

Makes 2 cups

Molasses is hardly what one would call a fashionable ingredient these days, but unlike the sugar, fructose, and dextrose used in most commercial barbecue sauces, it has flavor behind its sweetness. This sauce goes particularly well with pork and duck.

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 small onion, minced (½ cup)

1 clove garlic, minced (1 teaspoon)

1 jalapeño chili, seeded and minced

⅔ cup molasses

⅔ cup distilled white vinegar

⅓ cup Dijon-style mustard

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and chili, and cook, stirring well, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until soft but not brown.

Stir in the remaining ingredients and simmer for 5 minutes. Let the sauce cool before serving.

25 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; .5 G FAT; 5 G CARBOHYDRATE; 73 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

17 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 1 G PROTEIN; 0 G FAT; 2 G CARBOHYDRATE; 147 MG SODIUM; 3 MG CHOLESTEROL

YEMENITE HOT SAUCE

Makes 1½ cups

Zehug is a hot sauce from Yemen, served much the way bottled salsa is in North America. You can use almost any hot chili to make this sauce, including jalapeños, serranos, and Thai peppers. To make a red sauce, use red chilies; to make a green one, use green.

6 fresh red or green chilies, seeded

6 cloves garlic, peeled

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (approximately)

½ cup finely chopped cilantro or flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon ground cumin

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Purée the chilies and garlic in a spice mill or blender, adding enough lemon juice to obtain a smooth paste. (The ingredients can also be pounded to a smooth paste in a mortar and pestle.)

Transfer the chili paste to a bowl and stir in the cilantro, cumin, salt, and pepper.

4 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; 0 G FAT; 1 G CARBOHYDRATE; 1 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

BRAZILIAN HOT SAUCE

Makes 2 cups

This molho de companha (country hot sauce) could be described as a mildly spicy relish. To be strictly authentic, you’ll need an aromatic African chili called pimenta malagueta, whose fiery bite is inversely proportional to its tiny size. But the sauce is perfectly good made with readily available jalapeño or serrano chilies. Serve with grilled meat.

1 large red onion, finely chopped

1 large ripe tomato, seeded and finely chopped

1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced (2 teaspoons)

2 malagueta or other chilies, minced (or to taste)

¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice (or to taste)

2 tablespoons wine vinegar

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and stir to mix. Correct the seasoning with lime juice and salt to taste. If the sauce seems too thick, stir in a few tablespoons ice water.

8 CALORIES PER TABLESPOON; 0 G PROTEIN; .5 G FAT; 1 G CARBOHYDRATE; 1 MG SODIUM; 0 MG CHOLESTEROL

PICKLED OKRA

Makes 1 pint

Who says okra has to be soft and slimy? These pickles are crisper and crunchier than many cucumber pickles. This recipe is a great way to introduce people who don’t think they like okra to this pretty, finger-shaped vegetable. For the best results, choose small, firm, unblemished okra.

1 pound small okra

2 dried red chilies

2 cups white vinegar

1 cup water

1 tablespoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon each black peppercorns, coriander seeds, and dill seeds

½ teaspoon celery seeds

Wash the okra and trim off the ends of the stems. Place in a large, clean jar with the chilies. Combine the remaining ingredients in a nonreactive saucepan and bring to a boil. Let this mixture cool slightly, then pour it over the okra. Place a small dish or sealed, water-filled plastic bag on top to keep the okra submerged.

Let the okra stand at room temperature for 2 to 7 days. The pickles are ready to eat after 2 days, but the flavor will improve with age. (I’ve never been able to wait more than a week to see whether they continue to improve!)

Note: Nutritional values for pickled foods are imprecise and, therefore, no analysis is given.

PICKLED LEMONS

Makes 1 pint

Salt-cured lemons are a popular flavoring in Morocco, where they are added to everything from salads to stews. Their explosive flavor is great for enlivening seafood, pasta, and grain dishes, or even for nibbling straight. Pickled lemons will keep almost indefinitely, and a little goes a long way. A tiny spoonful of the juice makes a wonderful addition to salad dressing.

3 whole lemons

½ cup kosher salt

½–1 cup fresh lemon juice

extra-virgin olive oil (optional)

Scrub the lemons and dry well. Cut each lemon into 8 wedges and each wedge in half. Remove any seeds. Place the lemons in a bowl with the salt and mix well. Transfer the lemon mixture to a clean glass jar with a glass or plastic-coated lid. Add lemon juice to cover.

Seal the jar and let the lemons pickle at room temperature for at least 5 days, shaking the jar from time to time to mix the juices. For extra flavor, stir in a tablespoon or two of olive oil. Store the pickled lemons in the refrigerator.

Note: Nutritional values for pickled foods are imprecise and, therefore, no analysis is given.

PICKLED ONIONS

Makes 1 pint

Homemade pickles are a great way to spice up normally bland low-fat foods such as chicken breasts and fish fillets. I like to use cipollinas—small, flat Italian onions—for pickling, but pearl onions and small silverskins work well, too.

2 cups distilled white vinegar

⅔ cup water

2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon sugar

1½ pounds cipollinas or other small onions, peeled

1 or 2 fresh jalapeño chilies, thinly sliced

Combine the vinegar, water, salt, and sugar in a large bowl and whisk until smooth. Place the onions and chilies in a large, clean jar. Add enough of the vinegar mixture to cover the onions completely. If necessary, place a small dish or sealed, water-filled plastic bag on top to keep the onions completely submerged. Let the onions pickle at room temperature for 2 to 3 days.

Note: Nutritional values for pickled foods are imprecise and, therefore, no analysis is given.