Parliament Hill and the Plains
Québec City was blessed with huge green spaces, a waterfront, and a cliff face perfect for scaling. In fact, the city is so hilly that sometimes even a trip to the local store can feel like a hike. Blame the instense inclines, the promise of mountains looming to the north, and the beauty of one of the world’s largest rivers. This is city that embraces its proximity to nature. Quebeckers are no strangers to the sporting goods store and they bring their partiuclar love of sports, like canoeing and skiing, to an urban environment.
Québec has a strong connection to the outdoors, even when the ground is buried under four feet of snow. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing are part of getting around in the city. What better way to see the historical sights than skiing from one place to the next? There’s no shortage of outdoor skating rinks, many of which are frozen rivers and ponds. Ice-skating is an idyllic and truly Canadian pastime. Not far from the city center are a number of mountains, pefect for exploring with snowboards and downhill skis.
The city is on one of the largest waterways in North America, so boating is a popular sport, and in summer the St-Lawrence is dotted with white sails and even the occasional sea kayak.
Though it’s one of the hilliest cities in Canada, Québec City is also home to two of the longest bike paths in the country, running alongside the river; a trip down the Promenade Champlain is like a mini-break from the city. And, of course, come winter the bike path becomes one of the best ski trails.
| Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town | Map 1 (tap here) |
This company offers two different cruises in and around Québec. La Touristique is a 90-minute historical tour that will take visitors from the Vieux-Port along the coast of the Île d’Orléans and Montmorency Falls and allows for waterfront views of Château Frontenac and Cap Diamant. The Image Mill cruise allows you to take in Le Moulin à Images multimedia event from the water; with panoramic windows and three terraces, it gives you a different take on the spectacle. They also offer longer cruises into the Charlevoix region to see the whales and the fjords.
MAP 1: 57 rue Ste-Anne, 800/463-5250, www.dufour.ca; May-Oct. daily 1:30pm, mid-July-mid-Aug. daily 1:30pm and 3:30pm; $64 adult, $59 senior and student, $29 child, children under 6 free for 90-minute cruise
Located directly in front of the Palais de Montcalm, this outdoor skating rink is a veritable winter wonderland once the snow has settled. A great place to bring the kids, it is frequented by tourists and locals alike who want to go for a skate in the shadow of the old city walls. Skate rental and sharpening are available during opening hours, as is a warm changing room fitted out with lockers, but visitors have to bring their own padlock.
MAP 1: 995 Place d’Youville, 418/641-6256; late Oct.-mid-Mar. Mon.-Thurs. noon-10pm, Fri.-Sat. 10am-10pm; free
Sign in at the clubhouse to receive your specialized club and ball before hitting the Upper Town links. A way of combining history with golf, this nine-hole course (rumor has it, it’s a par 4) has you teeing off at various points around the city’s fortifications (which are for the most part covered in grass), through its historic back streets, and even up along the walls of the Citadelle. A round takes approximately two hours and the course is open come rain or shine.
MAP 1: Parc-de-l’Artillerie, 2 rue d’Auteuil, 418/977-2453, www.golftouristique.com; June-Sept. daily 10am-5pm; $15 adult, $13 senior, $13.50 youth, children under 8 free
This entertainment of sliding down a steep 250-meter run at speeds of up to 70 kilometers per hour has been around since 1884. The Glissades de la Terrasse Dufferin (les glissades) are a Québec tradition. In front of the Château Frontenac, with great views of the St-Lawrence, families line up in full winter regalia to ride a toboggan down to the base of the wooden structure. Up to four people can ride down on a single toboggan, though you’re also allowed to try it solo and in pairs. A mini-sugar shack full of refreshments is available on the spot. Lines can be long, especially on weekends, so be prepared to wait.
MAP 1: Terrasse Dufferin, at rue des Carrières and Place d’Armes, 418/829-9898; mid-Dec.-mid-Mar. daily 11am-11pm; $2 pp per ride
This children’s wading pool is in the heart of Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town. Situated in the shadow of the Fortifications, the wading pool is simple, with hardly any bells and whistles; still, it’s the perfect place to let the kids cool off and let off some steam in the middle of the day. A children’s playground can be found just a little further along.
MAP 1: Parc des Plaines d’Abraham, 418/523-5695; mid-June-mid-Aug. daily 11am-4pm; free
| Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town | Map 2 (tap here) |
This 48-kilometer bike path stretches all the way from Saint-Augustin-de-Desmaures west of Québec City way to Chute Montmorency to the east. Running alongside the St-Lawrence, the path includes the Promenade Samuel Champlain; redone for the city’s 400th anniversary in 2008, this section of the path is located below the Plains of Abraham and includes various parks and rest stops. It takes you along Cap Blanc, a charming working-class area built directly against the cliff.
Though it’s mainly a bike path, runners, walkers, in-line skaters, and those in wheelchairs are free to use the path for both recreation and mobility. Open throughout the year, it becomes an ideal place to snowshoe and cross-country ski in winter.
MAP 2: St-Augustin-de-Desmaures to Chute Montmorency, 418/641-6290, www.routeverte.com; free
Offering both rentals and tours, Cyclo Services has different types of bikes on offer, including hybrids, road bikes, tandem, and children’s bikes. All rentals come with a helmet, lock, and a map. Located across the street from the Corridor du Littoral, it couldn’t be easier to jump on your bike and go. Five bike tours are available throughout the summer season; some, like the one through Lower Town and the Vieux-Port, stay closer to home, while others, like Huron-Wendake, take you farther afield. Prices vary and times change often, so call or email ahead. For those with their own wheels, an on-site mechanic is available seven days a week.
MAP 2: 289 rue St-Paul, 418/692-4052, www.cycloservices.net; daily 9am-9pm; tours May-Oct. 9am-9pm; $35 per day
Located at the Marché du Vieux-Port, Écolocyclo is perfectly situated on the Corridor du Littoral, the longest bike path in the city. The majority of their rental fleet bikes are mountain and city bike hybrids, with at least 21 speeds, perfect for those steep Québec streets. They also offer electric bikes to help give your pedaling a bit of a push, as well as tandems, trail-a-bikes for children, and recumbent bikes for those who want to give laid-back riding a try. Though they don’t offer tours, they will give you suggested routes to try, and all of their bikes are available for rentals of up to three days, at reasonable prices—perfect for getting around.
MAP 2: Marché du Vieux-Port, 160 Quai St-André, 418/692-2517, www.ecolocyclo.net; May-Oct. daily 9am-6pm; $17-45/hour
Cruises are available on the Louis Jolliet, a restaurant boat that can take you as far north as the Charlevoix region. Divided into day and night cruises, options include the brunch cruise with activities for kids, a tour of Île d’Orléans, a fireworks cruise, and a five-course dinner cruise. The captain’s lounge, three dining rooms, and terraces are on board as well as a gift shop and a bistro. Entertainment is part of every cruise and guide Louis Jolliet—an early Canadian explorer—will reveal all the area’s secrets. An orchestra plays in the evenings; passengers can dance the night away.
MAP 2: Quai Chouinard, 10 rue Dalhousie, 866/856-6668, www.croisieresaml.com
Departing from the Vieux-Port, Croisières Coudrier offers some unique and interesting tours. Many of the cruises are also educational. Learn about Québec’s own Ellis Island, Grosse-Île, a quarantine station between 1832 and 1937 and the home of Irish immigrants; passengers will have a chance to visit the island. Or experience the charms of Isle-aux-Grues by bike and taste their well-known cheese. Apple-picking and five-course dinner cruises are also available, as is a sightseeing tour, which lets you see the city from the river.
MAP 2: Bassin Louise, Pier 19, 180 rue Dalhousie, 888/600-5554, www.croisierescoudrier.qc.ca; May-mid-Oct. Sat.-Sun. 1:30pm, July-Aug. daily 3:30pm; $32 adult, $30 senior and student, $15 child, children under 5 free for 90-minute cruise
This 24-hour gym is open seven days a week and offers à la carte memberships that allow up to 10 visits. Longer memberships are available for three months up to a year. Along with a weight and cardio room, they also offer a number of classes, including crossfit, spinning, and toning, many of which start as early as seven in the morning.
MAP 2: 400 blvd. Jean-Lesage, 418/523-0284, www.planetefitnessgym.qc.ca; daily 24 hours
| Parliament Hill and the Plains | Map 3 (tap here) |
Come winter, this historical sight becomes an outdoor sport paradise. For beginners and pros, the 12.6 kilometers of cross-county trails and the 3.8-kilometer (round-trip) trails for snowshoers are the best place to experience winter in the city’s own backyard. Four classic trails, made up of one easy trail and three intermediate ones, are open. Those without their own equipment—boots, poles, skis, and snowshoes—can rent them from the Discovery Pavilion. A waxing room and two heated rest areas are available around the plains, and they also offer cross-country ski lessons.
MAP 3: Discovery Pavilion, 835 rue Wilfrid-Laurier (equipment rental), 418/648-2586, www.ccbn-nbc.gc.ca; late Dec.-mid-Mar. daily 8:30am-4pm; free
This outdoor skating rink, directly in front of the Musée des Beaux-Arts and right on the Plains of Abraham, is a great place to bring the kids. Easily accessible and popular with locals, it was completely renovated in 2011. Skaters should bring their own skates and equipment, since there are no rental facilities on the premises.
MAP 3: Parc des Champs-de-Bataille; late Oct.-mid-Mar. daily 11am-6pm; free
Located on the Plains of Abraham, this public pool and wading pool were renovated in 2011, giving them a brand new look. Conveniently located right on the Grande-Allée, it’s easily accessible from all points in the city. A haven for locals, this is a great place to bring the kids, especially to let them go a little wild after an afternoon at the museum.
MAP 3: Parc des Champs-de-Bataille; mid-June-mid-Aug. daily noon-7pm; free
A number of different types and levels of classes are available at this Ashtanga yoga studio located in a local community center. Guided classes are available for beginners to intermediate and for regular practitioners. Courses run throughout the day, seven days a week, typically starting at 6:30am and ending at 7:30pm. Those already comfortable with their yoga and just looking for a place to practice are welcome to drop in; there are free practice times available throughout the week.
MAP 3: Centre Culture et Environnement Frédéric Back, 870 ave. de Salaberry, 418/682-0654, www.ashtangaquebec.com; Mon.-Sat. hours vary by season; $16 per class for nonmembers
| Greater Québec City | Map 5 (tap here) |
A child’s paradise, this amusement park in the middle of a mall is designed for toddlers through tweens. Twenty different rides are waiting for kids to take them for a whirl, from physical fun like the Magic Castle’s ball pit, slides, and rope games and the Baby Jungle’s plush obstacle course to more traditional fairway staples like mini-bumper cars, a miniature train, a merry-go-round, Ferris wheel, and a rollercoaster. For kids wanting a bit more sport, there’s also a climbing wall, an ice rink, and mini-putt. Each ride requires a varying number of tokens, anywhere from two to six, with each token costing 50 cents.
MAP 5: 5401 blvd. des Galeries, 418/627-5800, www.mega-parc.com; Sept.-mid-June Mon.-Wed. noon-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. noon-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm; mid-June-Aug. Mon.-Wed. 10am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
Intersecting with the Corridor du Littoral just outside Saint-Roch, the Corridor des Cheminots is 22 kilometers long and takes riders from the city to Haute Saint-Charles in the north. Since it passes through various areas, including the St-Charles River and Wendake Village, riders can view a diverse landscape. Open to cyclists, walkers, runners, and inline skaters, it becomes a popular place for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in the winter.
MAP 5: North of Estuaire de la Riviere St-Charles to Haute Saint-Charles, 418/641-6412, www.routeverte.com; free
For experienced climbers only, this natural climbing wall can be accessed from rue Champlain. Located just outside of the city, near the Pont de Québec, are two cliffs perfect for climbing. This outdoor climbing area is a popular place with local climbers and caters to both learners and intermediate climbers. Le Pylône is the beginner area with 5.8 routes, while Le Champlain, 30 feet high by 200 feet long with lots of overhanging routes, is great for experts. Known as the “School of Rock,” it’s a great place to practice, especially since the rock face is made up of difficult gritstone.
MAP 5: Near Pont de Québec
Opened in 1993, Roc Gyms is a climbing school that offers indoor climbing lessons. Over 75 climbing lines are available in the main room, while two bouldering rooms are also available on-site, as are a number of indoor aerial courses. Those that are already experienced climbers can sign up for courses in outdoor and ice-climbing. Located in Limoilou, it’s easily accessible from downtown and Vieux-Port.
MAP 5: 2350 ave. du Colisée, 418/647-4422, www.aventurex.net; Mon.-Sat. 10am-10pm, Sun. 10am-6pm; $18 day rental with equipment
Situated across the water in the city of Lévis, La Tempête is one of the top courses in the metropolitan area (of course, the green fees reflect this). It hosted the World Skins tournament in 2009 and has been called the first 18-hole golf course of international caliber in the area. Designed by golf architect Darrell J. Huxham, the 7,203-yard course is topped with a luxurious clubhouse and high-class restaurant.
MAP 5: 51 rue des Trois Manoirs, Lévis, 418/832-8111, www.golflatempete.com; May-Nov. daily dawn-10pm; $95-155 for 18 holes
When the St-Charles River, which separates Saint-Roch from Limoilou, freezes over, it becomes a natural skating rink, measuring 1.5 kilometers long. It’s here that you’ll find people playing pickup hockey and families teaching the youngest members how to skate. If you want a real Canadian experience, there’s nothing like plopping your bum on a cold park bench to lace up your skates. Of course, a warm changing room and heated pavilion with hot chocolate and skate rental are also available.
MAP 5: 5 rue de la Pointe-aux-Lièvres, 418/641-6345; late Oct.-mid-Mar. daily 24 hours; free
Situated just across the St-Charles River, Domaine Maizerets is both a public park and a historic site. Bought by the church in 1705, the land served as a farm and some of the church’s old buildings are still standing. Tours of the beautifully landscaped gardens and arboretum are available, and concerts are often held on the park grounds. Two bike trails, Corridor des Cheminots and Corridor du Littoral, cut through the park, and in the winter it’s a popular place for skating, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and tobogganing.
MAP 5: 1248 ave. de la Verendrye, 418/660-7357, www.domainemaizerets.com; free
South of Saint-Roch, this national historic site commemorates both the winter of 1535, when Jacques Cartier and his shipmates spent the season near the Iroquoian village of Stadacona, and the site of the Jesuit missionaries’ first home in Québec. Commemorative monuments are set up around the park, which is divided into east and west by a small river. With 6.8 hectares, it’s a popular place for outdoor sport and a bike path cuts through most of it. An interpretation center is open on-site from early May to early September, offering guided tours and various family activities.
MAP 5: 175 rue l’Espinay, 888/773-8888, www.pc.gc.ca; free
Located outside of the city, just on the other side of the Québec Bridge, this waterfront park gives visitors direct access to the St-Lawrence River. The winding paths and roads that take you to the shore, coupled with the boulders and pebbles that line the beach, make you feel as though you’re somewhere else entirely. Since swimming is prohibited, boating is the summer’s most popular sport, along with the 2.5 kilometers of hiking trails.
MAP 5: 3636 chemin de la Plage Jacques-Cartier, Ste-Foy, 418/641-6300; May-Oct.; free
The former home of the governor-general of United Canada, Spencer Wood was bought by the Québec government in 1870 and was home to the province’s lieutenant-governors until 1966. Though a fire destroyed the main residence, the splendid gardens remain, including a park that runs along the St-Lawrence, offering great views of the city. The park is a favorite for picnicking, self-guided tours, and its three kilometers of hiking trails. There’s also a children’s playground and sledding in winter.
MAP 5: 1215 Grande-Allée W., 800/442-0773; free
Starting at the Vieux-Port and running on for a total of 32 kilometers, this park runs along the banks of the St-Charles River, covering both urban and natural environments. Open year long, it has 4 kilometers of bike and rollerblade paths, ice-skating, snowshoeing, and 10 kilometers of cross-country skiing in winter. An interpretation center is located in the middle of the park.
MAP 5: 332 rue Domagaya, 418/691-4710, www.societerivierestcharles.qc.ca; free
Situated at the southern tip of Saint-Roch on the banks of the St-Charles River, Parc Victoria has been one of the few green spaces in the area since 1897. Almost completely surrounded by water, the small park was named after Britain’s Queen Victoria. It provides excellent views of the river and it’s here that you’ll catch a baseball game by Les Capitales de Québec.
MAP 5: Rue Robert-Rumilly, 418/641 6654; free
Members of the Can-Am Baseball League, Les Capitales are one of the most successful teams in the league. Making the playoffs almost every year since they entered the league in 1999, they garnered league titles in 2006, 2009, and 2010.
They play at the Stade Municipal, which seats approximately 5,000 and is located in Parc Victoria. The stadium opened in 1938 and has a long history within local baseball legend. This rich history and the affordable tickets ($10, $15 box seats) give you the feeling that you’re still in touch with what sports used to be and should be.
MAP 5: Stade Municipal, Parc Victoria, 418/521-2255, www.capitalesdequebec.com
This university football team has amassed a strong following in a city craving more spectator sports. Le Rouge et Or (the Red and the Gold, which are the school colors) won the Vanier Cup, the highest distinction for a Canadian university football team, four times in six years (2003, 2004, 2006, and 2008). They also hold the record for the longest winning streak in Canadian Interuniversity Sport football with 19 consecutive wins. If you happen to be visiting in the fall, a trip to Sainte-Foy to see a game is worth it; the bleachers are always packed and the energy is palpable.
Université Laval’s outdoor stadium can hold up to 10,000 spectators it but fit double that in 2005 with standing room only. Their loyal fan base has also mastered the art of tailgating, getting to the stadium parking lot early on game day mornings.
MAP 5: PEPS de l’Université Laval, 2300 rue de la Terrasse, 418/656-7377, www.rougeetor.ulaval.ca
Ever since they won the Memorial Cup (the Canadian Junior Championships) in 2006, the Remparts, Québec’s Major Junior Hockey team, have become the hottest show in town. And things will probably stay that way so long as this crazy-about-hockey city doesn’t have an NHL team. Their home rink is the Colisée Pepsi, the former home of les Nordiques (RIP), which moved to Colorado in 1995.
They’re coached by former goalie Patrick Roy, considered one of the best goalies in the history of the game. Roy, who ranks with Celine Dion as far as Québec hero hierarchy goes, brings a colorful edge to the team. Famous Remparts alumni include legendary player Guy Lafleur, ex-Nordiques Michel Goulet, left-winger Simon Gagné, center Mike Ribeiro, and right-winger Alexander Radulov.
MAP 5: Colisée Pepsi, 250 blvd. Wilfrid-Hamel, 418/525-1212, www.remparts.qc.ca
A world of boating fun is only a five-minute drive from downtown Québec City. Though swimming in the river is forbidden, a ton of boating and beach activities make you feel like you’re on the coast. Canoe, kayak, sailboard, dinghy, and catamaran rentals are offered at various rates and lengths, and those looking to learn how to sail can sign up for classes. Beach soccer and volleyball courts are free for all to use and the large children’s park keeps the kids busy.
MAP 5: Eastern end of blvd. Henri-Bourassa, 418/266-0722, www.baiedebeauport.com; mid-June-mid-Aug. daily 10am-9pm
