Parliament Hill and the Plains
Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch
Québec has a long history with commerce. As the site of the first settlement in New France, its entire founding was based on trade with the Amerindians, and as the colony grew, trade became vital to its survival. Its genetic makeup as a commercial city is still apparent, and over the centuries it has created some of Canada’s most recognized stores and brands.
Many of those same stores exist today. Holt Renfrew, La Maison Simons, and J. A. Moisan (the oldest grocery store in North America) are businesses that first bloomed in Québec and whose rich past can still be seen when you enter their establishments.
With all that history, however, it’s important to have something new, and the revival of rue St-Joseph in Saint-Roch has been one of the most important developments of the past few years. The area was abandoned by businesses that opted for the malls of the late 1950s, but new customers and retailers are now emerging in the area. Filled with young, modern stores and independent boutiques, it has given the city a much-needed boost of cool. Rue St-Jean, outside of the walls, is experiencing a similar rejuvenation, with youthful stores popping up, many with an eye on local products and design.
Unlike most major Canadian cities, when it comes to the downtown core, Québec sticks to its roots. Here, stores like H&M, Gap, and Zara are relegated to the malls, about a 15-minute drive away. Though some chains can be found (mostly in Upper Town), they are few and far between. Instead, the historic houses and beautiful Beaux-Arts buildings are small independent boutiques or established businesses.
There are independent jewelry stores throughout Québec City. Rue Petit-Champlain has a good mix of high-end and more artsy offerings. In fact, these are the two main kinds of jewelry stores found all over the city: super kitsch costume jewelry and high-end designer pieces. One thing that remains the same in upscale or costume jewelry is that it’s all handcrafted.
If you’re on the hunt for antiques, look no further than the narrow cobblestone rue St-Paul, where just about every other store is dedicated to antiques. If you’re looking for something specific, it’s best to pop into them all. Just about every single store is stocked full of everything from antique bedposts to silverware.
Though Québec doesn’t have crafts in the traditional sense, there is a certain aesthetic found in the various artisanal works. A mix of materials is one element, as is an unexpected juxtaposition of colors and shapes. Inuit art, though not exclusive to the province, can also be found in a number of arts and craft shops, since northern Québec is home to many native and Inuit tribes.
If you’re looking for a relaxing massage or facial, look no further than your hotel: Most have exquisite facilities. For those that don’t, there are a few spas within the city that offer everything from quick therapeutic massages to daylong adventures in pampering.
English books are hard to come by in Québec City. Although most hotels carry a few national and international English-language papers, finding anything more than a bestseller can be tough. Magazines, however, are much easier to find, and both European and North American versions are readily available.
If you want to pick up some vintage Félix Leclerc after an inspiring night at a boîte à chansons, head along rue St-Jean, where you’ll find both new and used vinyl and CDs. The implosion of the record industry has been tough on Québec’s independent music stores, but a few gems remain.
Many of the stores that line the streets of Vieux-Québec’s Upper and Lower Town cater to tourists. Though many of them strive to have their own personality, a lot blend into one another. The stores included in this chapter, however, all offer something a bit different and less well known.
It’s not surprising that in a city so defined by its food, its best markets revolve around farmers and fresh produce. And though winters can be harsh, the farmers markets keep going all year long.
Québec City spends at least six months out of the year under snow, so that may explain why there are two stores dedicated entirely to Christmas decorations. Situated kitty-corner to each other, snowy landscape or not, these places are packed even in the summer.
In high tourist season during the summer, boutiques in Upper and Lower Town stay open late, some even as late as midnight, if the crowds are still out. In winter, stores often close early, or for months at a time, depending on the nature of their business. If there’s a store you particularly want to visit, it’s always best to call ahead, especially in the off-season.
| Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town | Map 1 (tap here) |
Having studied jewelry design and gemology in Paris, Michel Zimmermann returned to Québec in the late 1970s to open his very own jewelery shop. Zimmermann’s has since become one of the most respected jewelers in the business, known for unique handcrafted gems. The pieces are all meticulously handcrafted without the use of any cast, working exclusively with 925/1000 silver and 18-carat gold or platinum. Styles vary from simple, leaf-shaped earrings to detailed wedding bands and teardrop birthstone pendants.
MAP 1: 46 Côte de la Fabrique, 418/692-2672, www.zimmermann-quebec.com; Mon.-Wed. and Sat. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm
Situated in the heart of Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town, this small boutique located in a historic building offers high-end pieces from artists in the region. Stone and ivory carvings, both Inuit and local, are some of the more sought-after pieces, as are intricately carved chess pieces. It’s a popular tourist shop, and handmade hunting knives are among the less conventional items, as are woven and knitted goods like the handmade sweaters reminiscent of the kind Bill Cosby made famous in the 1980s.
MAP 1: 1124 rue St-Jean, 418/692-4850, www.canadeau.com; summer daily 10am-7pm, winter daily 10am-6pm
Situated in a beautiful historic house complete with a red-peaked roof and white-washed facade, Galerie d’Art les Trois Colombes is one of the most picturesque of arts and craft stores. Filled with selections from both Québécois and Canadian arts and crafts, it also carries works by Inuits and Amerindians, including thick-wool parkas trimmed with fur and moccasins and mukluks in both child and adult sizes. Authentic snowshoes, soapstone sculptures, and weavings occupy the downstairs, while, upstairs, visitors will find handmade hats, rag dolls, and sweaters.
MAP 1: 46 rue St-Louis, 418/694-1114; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-7pm, Thurs.-Sun. 9:30am-9pm
This teeny-tiny store, approximately two meters wide, in the interior courtyard of Château Frontenac is a splendid gem. The emphasis here is on quality not quantity, and their finely made, striped wool socks, black-and-red checkered blankets, and fur-trimmed hats have become a recognized brand in this region. Alongside the cozy woolen goods (and pillows that make great souvenirs), they also sell a few natural beauty products, like moisturizer, body wash, and shampoo, for both people and their pets.
MAP 1: 1 rue des Carrières, 418/694-2151, www.lambertco.ca; Mon.-Fri. 10am-7pm, Sat.-Sun. 9:30am-6:30pm
Located inside the Hôtel Manoir Victoria, this full-service spa offers manicures ($52), pedicures ($73), and signature treatments like Cocoon facials ($100), Jin Shin Do massage ($100), and maple body scrubs ($85). A 30-minute Swedish massage will set you back $65. It’s frequented by hotel guests, but nonguests may also make a reservation here. Many of the treatments use products made with local, organic maple sugar, and a day-package to the spa also gives visitors access to the hotel’s gym, sauna, and indoor pool, all of which have an early-20th-century, Turkish-bath feel with mosaic tiles and arched columns around the pool.
MAP 1: 44 Côte du Palais, 800/463-6283, www.manoir-victoria.com; daily 9am-9pm
Opened in 2010, the Payot Institute is located in the Château Frontenac, but you don’t have to be a hotel guest to benefit from the treatments offered by this renowned institution. Started by Dr. Nadia Payot, the first woman to graduate from the Lausanne School of Medicine in France in 1913, the spa offers treatments that go beyond the regular massages and facials to include an entire beauty philosophy. Facial acupuncture, a face and body scrub with caviar, myrrh and amyris, and Dr. Payot’s signature facial, which includes 42 specialized movements designed to halt aging, hair elixir, and precious oils are all available. They also offer a number of treatments designed specifically for men, including foot, hand, and nail care. The decor is soft gray with hints of purple, which complements the institute’s calm atmosphere. The prices are at the high-end of the scale.
MAP 1: 1 rue des Carrières, 418/977-7790, www.fairmont.com; Mon.-Thurs. 8:30am-8pm, Fri.-Sat. 8:30am-9pm, Sun. 9am-5pm
One of the biggest music stores in the province, Archambault has 15 stores throughout Québec and sells everything from CDs and DVDs to books, magazines, newspapers, video games, and musical instruments. Deep red walls are the backdrop for this location’s selection of small instruments and musical accessories. It was founded in 1896 by Edmond Archambault, who wanted to open a sheet music store; he teamed up with piano man and musical instrument specialist J.A. Hurteau to create the first Archambault retail outlet. Locals pop in here to pick up a new release or get strings for their guitar.
MAP 1: 1095 rue St-Jean, 418/694-2088, www.archambault.ca; Jan.-May Sun.-Wed. 9:30am-6pm, Thurs.-Sat. 9:30am-9:30pm; June-Dec. daily 9:30am-9:30pm
Founded in 1972 by a bunch of counterculture kids, Librarie Pantoute (its name means “not at all” in Québécois lingo) is one of the most important independent bookstores in the province. Situated in the heart of Upper Town, this location has high ceilings and walls full of bookshelves. They carry popular English titles, mostly best-sellers like John Grisham and Ken Follett, although they usually have a title or two by still popular but slightly lesser-known authors. No matter what you’re looking for, the well-informed, usually bilingual staff will be able to help.
MAP 1: 1100 rue St-Jean, 418/694-9748, www.librairiepantoute.com; Mon.-Sat. 10am-10pm, Sun. noon-10pm
If it is published on a daily, weekly, or monthly basis, they likely have it here. From periodicals to newspapers to magazines and specialized reviews in a number of languages—English, Spanish, Russian, German, Arabic—this is your best bet for finding your favorite daily. Le Monde, le Figaro, the New York Times, the Wall Street Journal, and the International Herald Tribune can all be found here. If you want something with a bit more meat, they also have books, including paperbacks, usually bestsellers, in English. Also set up partially as a gift shop, it sells postcards and trinkets and offers money exchange.
MAP 1: 1050 rue St-Jean, 418/694-1511; Mon.-Sat. 7am-11pm, Sun. 8am-11pm
Die-hard comic fans will want to make Première Issue a definite stop on their map. Sitting at a 45-degree angle in Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town directly across from Les Fortifications, this comic book paradise is filled with back issues of DC and Marvel comics, as well as cult classics like The Watchman. Local fans can be found browsing and reading or having an intense discussion about Tintin with staff. The atmosphere is laid-back with a bit of whimsy. Though they also carry comics from Québec and France, known as bande dessinée, the focus here is on classic English-language comics.
MAP 1: 27A rue d’Auteuil, 418/692-3985, www.librairiepremiereissue.com; Mon.-Fri. 10am-7pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
Established in 1966, this chaotic boutique just inside of the old walls carries old-time toys. Marionettes, matryoshka dolls, model cars, trains, and stuffed animals line the walls, alongside traditional Québécois wood toys like spoons for playing traditional songs and the gigueux, a wooden doll that is made to dance the jig on a platform. Board games for all ages and in both English and French are available, as are party favors and balloons.
MAP 1: 1039 rue St-Jean, 418/694-9133, www.boutiqueechelle.com; summer daily 10am-11pm, winter Mon.-Wed. 10:30am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10:30am-9pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm
If you ask the owner of this headwear wonderland tucked down a quiet side street how she would describe her store, she will tell you, “I sell hats. That’s it. Point final.” And she’s right. Men’s hats, women’s hats, they are all available here from panamas to fedoras, caps to cloches, and in an array of colors and sizes, stacked up along the shelves or modeled by body-less mannequins. The service is hands-off, unless customers show real interest, and the atmosphere quite sober, depending on the mood of the staff, who are mostly mature women who look lovely in hats.
MAP 1: 42 rue Garneau, 418/649-0045, www.bibietcie.com; Feb.-Oct. Mon.-Sat. 9am-7pm, Sun. 10am-6pm; Nov.-Jan. Thurs.-Sun. noon-7pm
One of the oldest boutiques in Québec, it’s named after an English tailor who took over a business that sold military garments and turned it into a wool and cashmere boutique. The antique till and specialized wooden sweater shelves are reminders of times past and though the styles may have changed since he opened in 1872, the ethos remains the same and you’ll find a range of accessories, toques, berets, mittens, and scarves of only the highest-quality from brands such as Ballantyne, Johnston of Elgin, and Tilley Endurables. Dapper gentlemen who still wear caps are fans, as are well-heeled older women who come for their cozy knits.
MAP 1: 7 rue de Buade, 418/692-2268; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-7pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm
One of the city’s most important businesses, La Maison Simons was started in 1840 by 17-year-old John Simons, who opened a dry goods store near Porte St-Jean. Thirty years later, in 1870, the store moved to a new location close to the basilica, and here it has remained. Though opened in the late 19th century, it has a definite art deco feel, with a beautiful, concave ceiling made of pearl glass. A large section of the building has recently been remodeled and features high-ceilings, sleek, white modern stairs, and a live DJ on weekends. They carry a number of labels, both mid-range (Canada Goose) and luxury (Kenzo, Chloe) as well as their private label collection. Locations can be found at Place Ste-Foy (2450 blvd. Laurier, 418/692-3630) and Galeries de la Capitale (5401 blvd. des Galeries, 418/692-3630).
MAP 1: 20 Côte de la Fabrique, 418/692-3630, www.simons.ca; winter Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm; summer Mon.-Sat. 9:30am-9pm, Sun. noon-5pm
Clockwise from top left: Laliberté, Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch; menswear boutique Philippe Dubuc, Saint-Roch; toy wonderland Benjo, Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch.
Open since World War II, this large, open boutique in Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town has subsequently been run by three generations of the Théberge family. It stocks jewelry, leather goods, fur hats, plush toys, sweaters, T-shirts, and outerwear. The majority of the lines are made and designed in Québec. It’s recommended by the New York Times as a store to visit, and staff will remind you of this designation. The back of the store is dedicated to toy soldiers, and they have a huge collection of figurines, including the French battling the English at Waterloo and on the Plains of Abraham.
MAP 1: 30 Côte de la Fabrique, 418/692-2109, www.artisanscanada.com; summer daily 9am-10pm, winter daily 10am-6pm
Open since 1981, Boutique Claude Berry specializes in European earthenware. Situated just in front of the basilica, this is the only store in the city dedicated to this particular kind of ceramics. Walking in here can be a bit of a visual overload; patterned platters, teapots, cups and saucers, and tableware are set out before you, each item perfectly displayed so as to give visitors the optimal view of the pattern. At this family-run business, service is hands-off unless you get too close to the products. This is the only store in North America to carry Faience d’Art de Gien earthenware.
MAP 1: 6 Côte de la Fabrique, 418/692-2628, www.claudeberry.com; mid-Sept.-mid-May Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-7pm; mid-May-mid.-Sept. daily 9am-9pm
No matter the time of year, it’s always Christmas at La Boutique de Noël. In a three-story building whose facade is permanently decorated with fairy lights, the interior is painted a deep hunter green with red trim and high-flying angels. Fully decorated Christmas trees line the aisles, while the walls are hung with an almost inconceivable number of ornaments, from Disney characters to sophisticated icicles and everything in between. They also carry Nativity scenes, stockings, tinsel, and anything else you want to hang on your tree. If you’re unsure of the number of days left until the big event, this place has a running countdown.
MAP 1: 47 rue de Buade, 418/692-2457, www.boutiquedenoel.ca; Jan.-Apr. daily 10am-5pm, May-June and Oct. daily 9am-10pm, July-Aug. daily 8am-midnight, Sept. daily 9am-11pm, Nov.-Dec. daily 9am-9pm
A silent statue of a native chief greets you at the entrance of this boutique, setting the tone for what’s inside. This entire store is filled with Amerindian-inspired pieces, from moccasins to hunting knives, traditional woven blankets, and fur hats, even some à la Davy Crockett. One of the most serious gifts on display, however, has to be the stuffed wolf retailing for a cool $4,000. If you can get past the overwhelming kitsch of the place, there are some nice traditional crafts to be found.
MAP 1: 17 rue des Jardins, 418/692-3056; summer daily 9am-9pm, winter daily 10am-6pm
Without a doubt one of the best stores in the city, Magasin Général P.L. Blouin is filled with novelty items and pieces of historic kitsch. Old Québec license plates line the walls, along with models of old cars. They stock everything here, from brand-new checkered hunters’ caps to vintage magazines, old Coca-Cola paraphernalia, and magnetic Elvises. Owner Mr. Blouin is a connoisseur of kitsch, and people wanting to get rid of 40 years’ worth of junk in the attic come to him first.
MAP 1: 1196 rue St-Jean, 418/694-9345, www.magasingeneralplblouin.com; Nov.-Apr. Sun.-Wed. 9am-6pm, Thurs.-Sat. 9am-9:30pm; May-Oct. daily 9am-10pm
This picturesque shop has the feel of an old-time confiserie, or candy shop. The shelves are lined with containers full of candy, old-fashioned treats, novelty cups and saucers, magnets, and bowls, making it a great place to pick up a gift. Homemade chocolate, fudge, and hot chocolate are made on the premises and there’s also an emphasis on local products like spices, teas, candies, and maple goodies. It’s been open for over 20 years, and just about everything here is for sale, from the antique display case to the squares of maple sugar candy sitting temptingly at the cash register.
MAP 1: 1111 rue St-Jean, 418/692-5022; summer daily 9am-9pm; winter Mon.-Wed. 9am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-5:30pm
Everything here is drizzled with maple, from the blueberry gelato to the fleur du sel. Part store, part café, one side of this large, open store is dedicated to pastries, coffees, desserts, and gelatos, while the other is filled with rows of gourmet maple syrup, maple cookies, maple pork rub, coffees, teas—you get the idea. A small seating area at the back is a pleasant place to try a taste of their hot maple-flavor milk, but the real draws here are the gourmet products.
MAP 1: 1044 rue St-Jean, 418/692-3245, www.mapledelights.com; fall and spring Mon.-Thurs. 7am-9pm, Fri. 7am-10pm, Sat. 9am-10pm, Sun. 10am-10pm; winter Mon.-Thurs. 7am-8pm, Fri. 7am-9pm, Sat. 9am-9pm, Sun. 10am-9pm; summer Mon.-Fri. 7am-midnight, Sat. 9am-midnight, Sun. 10am-midnight
This outdoor market runs throughout the summer on the grounds of the Holy Trinity Anglican Cathedral, in the shadow of Château Frontenac. The cozy, makeshift stalls erected here put you in direct contact with the artist or crafter who made the goods, making the shopping and browsing experience all the more memorable. The products are completely unique and different than what you’ll find in other artisan and gift shops. Vendors sell everything from jewelry to sweaters to glass and woodwork.
MAP 1: 31 rue des Jardins, www.artisansdelacathedrale.com; mid-June-early Sept. daily 10:30am-10pm
| Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town | Map 2 (tap here) |
Open for over 40 years, this high-end jeweler located in a historic stone house in Petit-Champlain is one of the city’s best. The super-sleek interior with white display cases built into the walls gives it an added bit of glamour. The pieces here, many of which are made by Québec artisans, are exquisitely crafted with a wide range of styles and materials available, from rough-hued gold rings set with brilliant turquoise from the exclusive Louis Perrier collection to refined platinum engagement rings with a simple butterfly setting.
MAP 2: 48 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/977-5800, www.pontbriand.net; winter daily 10am-5:30pm, summer Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, Sun. 10am-6pm
Owned and staffed by a young helpful and friendly couple, Stéphanie and Frédéric Bolduc, this small antique store situated in an old stone house is bright, uncluttered and artfully laid out with furniture, chandeliers, and just about anything else. Clocks and sconces line the walls, while tables, cabinets, and dressers are topped with children’s toys, rotary telephones, firefighters’ helmets, china tableware, steak knives, and vanity sets.
MAP 2: 89 rue St-Paul, 418/694-9558, www.lesantiquitesbolduc.com; Mon.-Fri. 9:30am-5pm, Sat. 10:30am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
A staple on the strip since the 1970s, Boutique aux Mémoires Antiquités is filled with treasures like Victorian furniture, oil lamps, old office desks, glittery chandeliers, and other curiosities. The low tin ceilings add even more charm to the crowded space in this historic building. The owner has a keen eye for finery, so fans of Tiffany lamps, fine silverware, and dinner china should keep their eyes peeled here. Though most of the stuff will look like it could come from anywhere, just about all of the finds here are directly from Québec’s past.
MAP 2: 105 rue St-Paul, 418/692-218; Mon.-Sat. 9:30am-5pm
Named after a French shopkeeper who was also the head colonel of the militia in 1790, Maison Dambourgès is one of the larger stores on the street. Specializing in 19th-century pine country furniture from Québec and folk art, the store is perfectly curated. The large store is spacious compared to others on the strip and has a country feel. Just about everything here looks like it was fished out of an abandoned farmhouse in the country, and the owners have an impeccable eye for everything from stoneware jugs and weather vanes to old pine hutches with peeling paint and armoires built for the sole purpose of cooling pies.
MAP 2: 155 rue St-Paul, 418/692-1115; Mon. and Thurs.-Fri. 11am-5pm, Sat.-Sun. 11am-4pm
Devoted to the work of Québécois artisans, the Boutique des Métiers d’Art showcases the work of over 125 craftspeople, all members of the Québec Craft Council. Situated on the famous Place Royale, it couldn’t be better located, with huge, floor-to-ceiling windows and shelves and display cases lining the stone walls. Everything is well plotted out. Goods here are divided by materials and include wood, ceramic, metals, and glass, though other materials can be found in the work throughout the shop. Whether it is simple wood kitchen utensils you’re looking for, a tin candelabra, or a unique silver pendant, you’ll find it here.
MAP 2: 29 Place Royale, 418/694-0267, www.metiers-d-art.qc.ca; June 24-late-Aug. daily 9:30am-9:30pm; Sept.-Dec. Sat.-Wed. 9am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm; Jan.-late-Apr. daily 9:30am-6pm; May-June 24 Sat.-Wed. 9:30am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm
Pauline Pelletier’s ceramic and porcelain artwork is both unconventional yet modern. Using unusual shapes as a base, a square teapot for example, the ceramic is then smoke-fired to create the final effect, giving it a marbled finish. The unusual pieces of art, popular with tourists and locals alike, include vases, tea sets, and serving platters. The colors are unconventional—navy blue, red, and jade, many with a touch of rich gold adorning the edges. The boutique, open since 1983, also carries the work of other Québec artisans and jewelers, giving it a more dynamic atmosphere and added quirkiness.
MAP 2: 38 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-4871, www.paulinepelletier.com; Oct.-May Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-5pm; June-Sept. daily 9am-9pm
This unique shop is run by artist Dominique Huot, who has been creating her one-of-a-kind silk products since the late 1970s. A descendant of Québécois artist Charles Huot, Dominique uses natural silk and wool fibers to create her scarves and men’s ties. The designs on many of the scarves are spontaneous, though she continually recreates certain themes, including abstracts, florals, and maple leaves. The shop itself is quite small with the scarves predominantly displayed throughout.
MAP 2: 91 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-5920, www.soieriehuo.com; summer daily 9:30am-8pm, winter daily 9:30am-5pm
This store, located in the quaint Petit-Champlain district, carries lines by Québécois designers, from young, lesser-known labels like Véronique Miljkovitch (whose bias-cut dresses and asymmetrical shapes have won her the adoration of fashion insiders) to the mixed-textile playfulness of Myco Anna. Situated in a historic building, the interior is plain, featuring white walls with red trim. Carrying both men’s and women’s wear, it’s a popular tourist shop for watches, jewelry, leather bags, and seasonal products like fur coats and hats, all made in Québec.
MAP 2: 47 rue Sous-le-Fort, 418/692-2875; Sept.-June Sat.-Wed. 10am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm; July-Aug. daily 9am-9pm
If you need a pea coat or a striped Breton sweater this is a good place to start, whether you’re a man or a woman. The goods here all have a nautical flair and evoke Cape Cod even when it’s mid-January outside. The bright blue walls, low ceilings, and high-gloss wood floors give the vague impression you’re on a ship, but the thick, knitted sweaters and heavy down jackets will remind you of the weather outside. They are exclusive carriers of yachting brands like Paul & Shark, Armor-Lux, and Meyer, and if you’re sailing the St-Lawrence, this is the only store you need.
MAP 2: 59 and 63 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/694-0694, www.capitainedabord.com; Sun.-Tues. 9am-6pm, Wed.-Sat. 9am-9pm
Established in 1894, Richard Robitaille is a family business passed down through four different generations. While visitors are invited to browse the luxurious fur coats and hats (worn just as much by men and women in this province), the real draw here is to see how the coats get made. Serge Richard repairs and makes fur coats from scratch and invites you to see the process, from the skins to the final product, at the store’s Eco Musée. Richard will tell you about different hunting methods and species, and the evolution of fur in fashion, all while creating a brand-new look.
MAP 2: 329 rue St-Paul, 418/692-9699, www.economusees.com; Mon.-Sat. 9:30am-4pm
This two-floor store on the tiny rue de-Petit-Champlain carries contemporary designer brands, including Martinique for men and Michael Kors for women. Entering the menswear section, you’ll find a fairly small floor space tastefully packed with the latest from GStar, J Lindeberg, and Energie, among others. Down a camouflaged staircase you’ll reach the women’s floor (which you can also enter or exit from the larger rue Champlain), similar in size but much more stocked, with pieces from Velvet, In Wear, and Nougat, among others.
MAP 2: 67½ rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-1214, www.oclan.net; Sat.-Wed. 10am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm
This place takes things you love but seemingly have no real use for, like that first pressing of the Grateful Dead’s “Anthem to the Sun,” and turns them into something useful like a CD rack. The brainchild of Lise Maheu, this large, open boutique in the Vieux-Port has some great pieces, from the aforementioned vinyls-turned-CD racks. They also turn old butter boxes into ottomans and teapots into lights and carry various kinds of furniture, from old country pine tables to contemporary pieces that would look just as good in a loft as in a 19th-century townhouse.
MAP 2: 225 rue St-Paul, 418/525-9898, www.machinchouette.com; Mon.-Wed. and Sat. 10am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. and Sun. 10am-6pm
This split-level store in Petit-Champlain carries ceramics and kitchenware. On the lower floor they carry an array of charming things for the home, including mugs with mustaches, checkered canisters, and artisanal pieces like carved owls and polar bears, as well as a few gourmet products like dried pasta imported from Italy and loose-leaf teas from France. On the upper level, it’s all serious kitchen stuff like baking sheets, cookie cutters, and French brands like Emile Henry, as well as a range of Bodum presses.
MAP 2: 27 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-1743; July-Aug. daily 9am-10pm, Sept.-June Sun.-Wed. 9am-6:30pm, Thurs.-Sat. 9am-9:30pm
As the name suggests, this place is a fudge fanatic’s fantasy. Well established outside of the city, this cozy, old-timey store is the company’s first in downtown Québec. The low ceilings, old wood floors, and exposed ceiling beams make you feel as though you’re stepping into the past, a feeling added to by the workers in pristine white coats who circle the store with a platter offering tastes of their divine homemade fudge. Nougat, gourmet hot chocolate, and candied pecans are also made here.
MAP 2: 16 rue du Cul-de-Sac, 418/692-3834, www.lafudgerie.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 9:30am-5pm
This sweets shop in Petit-Champlain boasts one of the most dangerous sounding treats—chocolate pizza. With floor-to-ceiling windows and display cases prettily decorated with the day’s chocolate special, this place will easily break your resolve and lure you in to try their various goodies, including fudge, chocolate-dipped fruit kebabs, and Belgian chocolate. In summer, they also have homemade ice cream, and their homemade jam is available year-round.
MAP 2: 84 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/694-2269; winter Mon.-Wed. 9am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-6pm; summer daily 9am-11pm
Less exciting than some of the other gourmet stores, this bright, feminine shop—it’s all creams and soft pinks—in Petit-Champlain carries old-fashioned sweets and local products. Creamy nougats, flavored oils, spices, fair-trade chocolate, sweets, teas, and spreads (such as Verger du Sureau’s organic jams and jellies) are some of the goods available. They also carry non-foodie gifts like beauty products from Blue Lavender and small ceramics for the home.
MAP 2: 51 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-4870; Apr.-Aug. Mon.-Sat. 9:30am-9pm, Sun. 9:30am-5pm; Sept.-Oct. Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 9:30am-5pm; Nov.-Mar. Sat.-Wed. 10am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm
This little shop at the end of the rue du Petit-Champlain is all kitted out in wood paneling, both inside and out. Exclusively selling maple goods, it is the downtown extension of a sugar shack outside of the city. “The little sugar shack” sells maple syrup, maple candy, ice cream, maple lollipops, nougat, butter and spreads, and a ton of other maple products.
MAP 2: 94 rue du Petit-Champlain, 418/692-5875, www.petitecabaneasucre.com; winter Sat.-Wed. 10am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, summer daily 9am-9pm
Clockwise from top left: Jupon Pressé, Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch; Le Capitaine d’Abord, Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town; Quartier du Petit-Champlain, Lower Town.
Located right on the marina, this is the city’s largest farmers market. A tradition that’s been going on since 1841, the Marché du Vieux Port continues the practice of country farmers bringing their goods to city dwellers. Everything available here is locally grown and produced, and many of the products are organic. You’ll find everything from fruits and vegetables to cheese, meats, and seafood to wine and beer. If seeing all that food makes you hungry there are a number of places to grab a sandwich or a light lunch. There’s also a section dedicated to gifts and artisanal goods, including handmade jewelry, knitted scarves and socks, artwork, and leather goods.
MAP 2: 160 Quai St-André, 418/692-2517, www.marchevieuxport.com; Jan.-mid-Mar. Thurs.-Sun. 9:30am-5pm; mid-Mar.-Sept. Mon.-Fri. 9am-6pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-5pm; Oct.-late Nov. daily 9am-5pm; late Nov.-Dec. Sat.-Wed. 9am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9am-9pm
Full of artisanal shops, many of which double as artists’ workshops, Quartier du Petit-Champlain is the perfect place to support the local arts and pick up some unique gifts. It’s run as a co-op, and there is a real neighborhood spirit and camaraderie here due in part to the fact that many of these stores have been here since its inception in the late-1980s. Expect to find silk scarves, leather goods, gourmet fudge, maple syrup, expensive handmade jewelry, and more.
MAP 2: Between Place Royale and rue Petit-Champlain
This narrow cobblestone street in the Vieux-Port is Québec City’s antiques row. With the exception of a few cafés, bars, and restaurants, almost all of the stores here are filled with antiques. There is a real emphasis on classic antiques—that is to say, don’t expect to walk in and find a midcentury modern gem (though it could happen). The pieces aren’t often dated later than the 1940s, and even objects from that period can be hard to find. Instead, the focus in many stores is on traditional Québécois antiques.
MAP 2: Between rue St-Pierre and rue Rioux
| Parliament Hill and the Plains | Map 3 (tap here) |
Located in a skinny corner house decorated with deep blue trim, lots of flower pots, and their unmistakable yellow sign, Ketto has an aesthetic all its own. In the late 1990s, Onge was working at a ceramic store when the pieces with her cutesy, big-headed, stick-limbed characters painted on them started flying off the shelves. Today, Ketto carries hand-painted ceramics, jewelry, clothing, glassware, and stationery all with Onge’s signature style. The interior can be a bit chaotic, but everything is perfectly laid out, with a simple wood cabinet full of cups and saucers taking up almost an entire wall.
MAP 3: 951 ave. Cartier, 418/522-3337, www.kettodesign.com; Mon.-Wed. and Sat.-Sun. 10am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm
This spa mixes traditional Russian Banya treatments (steam baths) with therapeutic massage. Banya treatments here involve a humid environment in which the person starts to perspire; soaked oak leaves are then warmed and used to stroke, brush, and tap the body before a honey rub is used to draw out toxins and soften the skin. Trained and certified staff will give you a 60-minute Izba massage that starts at $90, or a deluxe Izba with facial and seawater wrap for $175. The stone walls, low lighting, and vaulted ceilings give it an especially luxurious feel.
MAP 3: 36 blvd. René-Lévesque E., 418/522-4922, www.izbaspa.qc.ca; Mon.-Tues. 9am-7pm, Wed.-Fri. 9am-10pm, Sat.-Sun. 9am-5pm
This is one of the best independent music stores in the province, open since 1984; what they lack in floor space they make up for in the huge choice. It’s close to the Plains of Abraham. The staff here are highly knowledgeable and can advise you on everything from Ye-Ye pop to the latest Québec rock sensation. The selection is contemporary with 15,000 to 20,000 CDs available in-store. Listening booths are set up around the store.
MAP 3: 1149 ave. Cartier, 800/287-7455, www.sillons.com; Mon.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
This corner boutique in a well-heeled part of town carries fashion-forward brands aimed at women of various ages. The decor changes throughout, from the deep gray walls and designs that cater to more mature women, to an adjoining white space that features younger brands like Miss Sixty and Nolita. The store also has its own shoe section, with seasonal footwear from the likes of Diesel and Ilse Jacobsen, among others, as well as a wall dedicated to denim.
MAP 3: 996 ave. Cartier, 418/521-1571; Mon.-Wed. 10am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
This modern living and design store carries an array of products, all chic, sleek, and sophisticated for your home. The all-white store is artfully decorated with stock arranged as you might arrange it in your own home. Recently expanded, the store now takes up not only the corner lot but the one next to it, with mirrors, chandeliers, table lamps, drinking glasses, tableware, shower curtains, jewelry boxes, cool wall clocks, and furniture from kitchen tables to small couches and chairs.
MAP 3: 999 ave. Cartier, 418/522-7373, www.zonemaison.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5:30pm, Sun. 10am-5pm
Less like a market than a mini-gourmet shopping center, Les Halles du petit Quartier is a brick and mortar building filled with great shops. It’s popular with locals. An organic fruit and produce stand, a fishmonger, butcher, cheese shop, fresh pasta shop, a pastry, and a bakery shop all offer top-quality products. It also boasts not one, but two coffee shops where you can take a break with a cappuccino; get one to go as you carry on with your browsing.
MAP 3: 1191 ave. Cartier, 418/688-1635, www.hallesdupetitquartier.com; Mon.-Wed. and Sat. 7am-7pm, Thurs.-Fri. 7am-9pm, Sun. 7:30am-7pm
| Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch | Map 4 (tap here) |
This narrow storefront would be easy to miss if it weren’t for the floor-to-ceiling windows and old-fashioned sign that pops out over the door. Situated in a newer building in the Saint-Roch neighborhood, Mademoiselle B has an Old-World charm with dark chocolate parquet floors, soft pink walls, and plush velvet display shelves. In keeping with the romantic interior, the costume jewelry here is very girly, with collections coming from France, the south of Italy, and, of course, Québec.
MAP 4: 541 rue St-Joseph E., 418/522-0455; Mon.-Wed. 10am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
A lot of time could be spent in this kitschy store filled with overwhelming amounts of jewelry and accessories and vibrantly decorated with bubble-gum pink walls, bright florals, pink fun fur, and circle motif wallpaper. Expect to find fabric-covered earrings, hand-drawn pins, long-fringe pendants and earrings, and bracelets and necklaces made with buttons, the store’s namesake bouton. A fun and vibrant store, it also carries seasonal accessories like bags, scarves, and hats.
MAP 4: 387 rue St-Jean, 418/614-9507, www.boutiquerose.blogspot.com; Tues.-Wed. 11am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 11am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 11am-5pm
Specializing in furniture and objects from the 1930s to the 1970s, the selection at Déjà Vu is much more mid-century modern than what you’ll find in most antique stores in the city. Full of Formica tables, colored glass cocktail sets, and electric blue sectionals from the late 1950s, it’s a fun place to stop in if only because the act is akin to a 20th-century flashback. Unlike flea market finds, the treasures here have been lovingly and expertly restored by owners Marie-Claude and François Gagnon. Prices can be higher than anticipated, but knickknacks and anything to do with cocktail hour—ice buckets, martini shakers—are well-priced and the perfect unique souvenir.
MAP 4: 834 rue St-Joseph E., 418/914-2483, www.dejavumeubles.com; Tues.-Wed. 10am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-8pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm
Founded by Diane Bergeron of Euphory Design in 2004, Point d’Exclamation was at the forefront of the movement to champion Québec-based designers. Nowadays, the entire neighborhood is full of shops dedicated to locally produced and designed goods (Jupon Pressé, Code Vert, Rose Bouton), but it was Bergeron and her eye for local artisanal work that got the ball rolling. The boutique carries the work of 30-40 local designers at any one time, and the goods range from jewelry to accessories and clothes. The all-white interior is a bit too bright at times but puts the focus on the work, while their constantly-changing storefront window is always a feast for the eyes.
MAP 4: 762 rue St-Jean, 418/525-8053; Sat.-Wed. 10am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm
This sleek and modern cosmetics store is reminiscent of the international chain Sephora. Products are beautifully arranged on white high-gloss lacquered shelves and the whole interior is given an added bit of warmth thanks to the exposed brick walls. It carries high-end makeup lines, a large range of perfumes, and just about any color of polish you could want. Pop in to get a manicure or pedicure, your makeup done for a special occasion, or just to get some tips from the beauticians, who are always ready to give you some pointers and a bit of a touchup.
MAP 4: 507 rue St-Joseph E., 418/529-7470, www.bloomi.ca; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
This urban spa in Saint-Roch is great for a massage or a quick bit of pampering. The decor is relatively simple, with the rooms filled with massage tables and not much else. Though they offer treatments, the focus is on massage, and five different kinds are available: Swedish, Californian, Amma (also known as Japanese massage), Thai-yoga massage, and massage with hot stones. Hour-long massages cost $65 and body wraps, including chocolate, algae, and sea salt, are $75. They also offer half-hour lunchtime massages (11:30am-1:30pm, $25) and 15-minute chair massages ($15).
MAP 4: 656 rue St-Joseph E., 418/525-7270, www.quintessens.ca; Mon. noon-5pm, Tues.-Fri. 10am-7pm, Sat. 10am-5pm
Established in 1996, this is the best record store in the city. Totally unpretentious, the staff here simply know their stuff, with certain clerks knowing the store’s entire stock almost by heart. New and used CDs are available, as are racks upon racks of vinyl, which take up the majority of the space. Brick arches divide the store. They’ll happily transfer your cherished 33s, 45s, and 78s onto CD.
MAP 4: 248 rue St-Jean, 418/525-1020, www.cdmelomaneinc.supersites.ca; Mon.-Wed. and Sat. 10am-5pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sun. noon-5pm
Vinyl is king at this Saint-Roch record store. Tired of having to buy vinyl on the Internet, owners Jean-Philippe Tremblay and Roxann Arcand decided to open a store dedicated to genres and media they most wanted to hear played. Specializing in rock (indie, math, pop), garage, punk, and local, the shop has an impressive collection of both new and used records. The space is open concept and airy: There’s even a foosball table near the large floor-to-ceiling window and a makeshift stage where shows are played at the back. The walls are lined not only with music but also books, zines, DVDs, and magazines about the bands and genres they love. The walls are fairly sparse, but the work of Mathieu Plasse, illustrating the history of rock through outfits, is pretty much all you need.
MAP 4: 832 St-Joseph E., 581/742-7625; Tues.-Wed. 11am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 11am-9pm, Sat. 11am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm
Comics and graphic novels are a huge part of Francophone culture. Just think of Tin Tin. Librairie Phylactère (the name means “speech bubble” in English) is here to cater to that love and is the go-to stop in the city for all of your graphic novel needs. Whether you’re looking for the latest Manga or Adrian Tomine, chances are you’ll find it in this Saint-Roch boutique. Comic book artwork adorns the walls and there are a few comfy seats for reading but otherwise they let the books be the focus.
MAP 4: 685 rue St-Joseph E., 418/614-2443; Tues.-Wed. 10:30am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10:30am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 10:30am-5pm
You could spend all day at this 25,000-square-foot store, and that’s exactly the point. It’s filled with educational toys, accessories for infants, model trains, planes, automobiles, party favors, candy, books, and a whole lot of costumes; if it’s meant for children you’ll likely find it here. Take the kids to lunch at the Benjo restaurant, or sign them up for a ceramic painting, jewelry, or paper-making workshop. The staff is always helpful and delightfully off-kilter, as is mascot Benjo, a frog, whom the kids can meet on weekends (Sat.-Sun. 11:15am-3:15pm).
MAP 4: 550 blvd. Charest E., 418/640-0001, www.benjo.ca; Mon.-Wed. 10am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 9:30am-5pm
Tucked down a quiet side street in Saint-Roch, Boutique Lucia F. is a vintage store carrying everything from old 45s to women’s pumps. Owned by a young graduate of design, there is an easy feel to how the whole place has been put together; bags line the windowsills, hats are pegged on the exposed brick wall, and old mismatched sitting room chairs are placed throughout the store. Styles for men and women are carried, and the majority of prices are $10-20. And if you like that magazine rack currently holding scarves, well, you can likely buy that too.
MAP 4: 422 rue Caron, 418/648-9785; Wed.-Fri. 11am-6pm, Sat. 11am-5pm
Located in a former bank, women’s boutique Esther P is one of the most stunningly designed stores on St-Jean. The store carries labels that are typically hard to find in Québec City—James Perse, French Connection, Ella Moss, Graham & Spencer. Owner Esther Pichette’s aim is to dress women of all ages. The boutique has an open-concept feel with high ceilings that show off the original moldings, blonde-wood floors, punches of red, and lots of windows and glass to keep things modern.
MAP 4: 873 rue St-Jean, 418/704-7774, www.estherp.com; Mon.-Wed. and Sat. 10am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
Fans of manga and cosplay congregate at this store turned hangout that brings a touch of Tokyo to Québec. It’s filled with Gothic Lolita outfits, cosplay accessories, manga, magazines, Japanese treats like Okonomiyaki chips, curry-flavored sweets, and any number of trinkets, dolls, and ephemera associated with the culture. The stools at the bar are usually filled with fans in cosplay, sipping their bubble-tea and bobbing their heads to the Visual Kei videos playing on the TVs above. They also have a karaoke box you can rent by the hour that has songs in Japanese, English, Korean, Chinese, and Vietnamese.
MAP 4: 383 rue du Pont, 418/614-5052, www.fanamanga.com; Tues.-Wed. 10:30am-5:30pm, Thurs. 10:30am-10pm, Fri. 10:30am-11:30pm, Sat. 11am-11:30pm
As the name suggests, this brightly colored boutique is all about clothes that bring out your inner flirt, specializing in lingerie for both men and women. The walls are lined with intimate apparel hanging tantalizingly in rows. The store prides itself not only on the many hard-to-find European brands they import, like Eva Racheline and Parah, but also on the fact that they carry hard-to-find sizes, including the line Empreinte, for the fuller-busted woman. Those looking for swimwear can pick from lines here like Cristina and Canadian company Shan. They also offer made-to-measure, but you must make an appointment first.
MAP 4: 525 rue St-Joseph E., 418/529-5221, www.lingerieflirt.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-5pm
This inviting women’s boutique on St-Jean is dedicated to emerging designers from Québec City, Montréal, and beyond. Brightly decorated with purple walls, flashes of yellow, bright floral wallpaper, and an inflatable moose head, the shop has an especially clean layout with pieces from designers like Eve Gravel, Supayana, and Valérie Dumaine. Nicely hung and spaced, nothing looks too crowded. T-shirts are perfectly piled on Formica tables, while accessories are laid out deliciously on cake plates; jewelry is displayed like art, framed and hung on the wall, though always easily accessible. Along with things for you to wear, they also carry cute, kitschy finds for the home.
MAP 4: 790 rue St-Jean, 418/704-7114; Mon.-Wed. 10am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-6pm
Hit this boutique up if you’re a young woman who is always on trend, faithfully follows Queen Bey, and wishes Nasty Gal was your own personal closet. Carrying everything from Cheap Monday jeans to silky, floral bomber jackets and Ain’t Laurent (without Yves) T-shirts, this store caters to the coolest looks and latest pieces. Owned by two super stylish and savvy mavens, this is their second location (the first Kitsch is located in Sherbrooke) and can be found on the über-hip St-Joseph, just a few doors down from that dictator of cool, Urban Outfitters. Curved, white furniture, like the kind you’d find in an 8-year-old’s bedroom is used as display cases, while the rest of the space is open and airy. The shop’s staff is eternally youthful, but also extremely helpful and competent, so don’t be shy.
MAP 4: 425 rue St-Joseph, 418/528-2222, www.boutiquekitsch.com; Mon.-Wed. 10am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
Fans of vintage will get a kick out of this high-ceilinged store, filled to the gills with vintage and consignment pieces. From a pair of barely worn knee-high boots to hats from the 1930s and authentic RayBan aviators, this store has it all. Situated in what was once an old house, the entire first floor has been taken over with display cases full of costume jewelry and purses, with clothes lining the walls and on carousels in the center of the room. The prices are reasonable, and those usually put off by secondhand goods should know that everything here has been cleaned, ironed, and hung according to color.
MAP 4: 511 rue St-Jean, 418/521-3397; summer Mon.-Wed. and Sat. 11am-7pm, Thurs.-Fri. 11am-9pm, Sun. noon-6pm; winter Mon.-Wed. noon-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 11am-8pm, Sat. 11am-5:30pm
This Québec City boutique of Montréal-based designer Philippe Dubuc couldn’t be sleeker. The long, narrow store is like a mirrored corridor with all-white floors, ceilings, and walls giving it an extra modern kick. Distinctly masculine clothes are represented in the store, made all the more cool by its location in the Saint-Roch neighborhood. Though Dubuc is primarily a menswear designer, fashion-forward women shouldn’t think twice about trying on a piece or two in this fabulous hall of mirrors.
MAP 4: 537 rue St-Joseph E., 418/614-5761, www.dubucstyle.com; Tues.-Wed. 10:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10:30am-9pm, Sat. 10:30am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm
Casual shoes for men and women can be found at this relaxed boutique on St-Jean. Steve Madden, Tsubo, and Chinese Laundry are available for women, while men’s brands include Asics, Onitsuka Tiger, and Camper for both sexes. Though there is definitely more of a choice for women, men looking for something unfussy, masculine, and modern, or just a new pair of everyday sneakers, are sure to find it here. The decor is minimal with the shoes displayed on the wall and the center of the room taken up with seating and seasonal displays. Winter boots are one of their specialties, so they always have a range of styles for both sexes come autumn.
MAP 4: 748 rue St-Jean, 418/523-4560, www.schuz.ca; mid-June-mid-Oct. Mon.-Sat. 10am-9pm, Sun. 11am-7pm; mid-Oct.-mid-June Mon.-Wed. and Sat. 10am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sun. 11am-5:30pm
This relatively new shop in Saint-Roch is dedicated to local designers. If you’re interested in a snapshot of Québécois fashion as it’s made here, then this shop is a must. Taking over the semi-basement of a church, the space has been completely refurbished and modernized, so much so that you’d never realize you were in a church basement. Open and sprawling, the space features the work of a number of different designers and different styles and price ranges. Expect everything from street-wear brands like Lady Dutch and Kärv to specialty brands Yoga Jeans and Blank and higher-end designers like Stacey Zhang, Harricana, and Tavan & Mitto. The clothes and accessories suit just about any age and style, though there’s much less choice for men.
Librarie St-Jean-Baptiste.
Déjà Vu, Saint-Jean-Baptiste and Saint-Roch.
MAP 4: 560 rue St-Joseph E., 418/648-9976, www.signaturesquebecoises.com; Mon.-Wed. 10am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-5pm
Proof that Saint-Roch is indeed the fastest (and coolest) growing neighborhood in the city, style savvy womenswear boutique Swell & Ginger put down roots here in mid-2013. Modern, open, and sparsely decorated with heavy wood tables and steel fixtures, the boutique would fit right in in New York’s East Village or London’s Portobello Road. Labels include Rich and Skinny Jeans, Tiger of Sweden, and House of Harlow. Don’t let the label love mislead you, however. Prices are surprisingly reasonable.
MAP 4: 765A rue St-Joseph E., 581/742-7080, www.swellandginger.com; Mon.-Wed. 10am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
Though this store specializes in upscale footwear and carries lines like Emilio Pucci, Kate Spade, and Marc by Marc Jacobs, it’s not just a shoe store—they also do pedicures. With a name that means “confusion” and “hubbub,” Tohu Bohu may surprise you. The store’s dynamic streamlined design—plush gray banquettes mixed with high-gloss, red-and-black shelving and illuminated cubbies—puts the emphasis on the shoes and bags. Come to browse or come just for a pedicure or manicure, which you can enjoy while you eat; their pedi-sushi deal allows you to chow down on dinner from Yuzu while you get your toes prepped for those new peep-toes.
MAP 4: 775 rue St-Joseph E., 418/522-1118, www.tohubohu.ca; Mon.-Wed. 10am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-5pm
In May 1867, 24-year-old Jean-Baptiste Laliberté founded a modest fur shop that by the beginning of the 20th century was one of the best fur stores in North America. From its humble beginnings, the store eventually grew to become an arresting five-floor department store with huge arched windows and a corner clock tower looking over St-Joseph. When many stores upped and moved to the new malls outside of town, Laliberté was one of the few that stayed. Though the store has since been scaled back (the unused floors are now lofts), Laliberté continues to be a leader in furs. Bring your old furs to be remodeled here or browse their seasonal collections.
MAP 4: 595 rue St-Joseph E., 418/525-4851, www.lalibertemode.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm
This two-floor home and design store in Saint-Roch brings together modern furniture, trendy kitchen utensils, and various objets d’art to place around your home. Super sleek in design, the over-100-year-old building has been meticulously redesigned so that the black slate staircase to the second floor blends in seamlessly with the ground floor walls lined with products like vases, espresso cups, and kitschy alarm clocks. Filled with brands that come from all over the world that are typically hard to find in the city, the store also carries collections from Québécois design firms.
MAP 4: 461 rue St-Joseph E., 418/524-1991, www.baltazar.ca; Mon.-Wed. 10am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 10am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
This chocolate and sweets shop has a few unique specialties. With only a few marble-topped tables to sit at, this fairly small store serves up some of the best marzipan treats in the city and also offers a range of fine sugar-free chocolate made in the European tradition in flavors that range from saffron to goat cheese with honey. Port glasses made of chocolate are the ultimate companion to the aged wine, as are their buttery French biscuits. The most unusual treat, though, is the cherry blossom—cherries soaked with champagne and cherry kirsch, covered in dark chocolate, and topped with a chocolate-dipped marshmallow. Totally decadent.
MAP 4: 783 rue St-Joseph E., 418/652-0708; Mon.-Fri. 8am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-6pm
Established in 1987, this artisanal chocolatier is one of the most decadent stops in the city. Chocolate lines the walls in this quaint kitchen and boutique, with an array of seasonal treats (like nachos dipped in chocolate) on one side, and displays of freshly made chocolates (with flavors like chestnut cream, rum, and allspice) on the other. Line up to get your gourmet hot chocolate, ice cream, or one of their many desserts—the brownies and chocolate cake here are said to be among the best in the province. The adjoining room is the Chocolate Museum, which gives you a history of the treat, lets you taste some wares, and allows you to watch the magic being made in the kitchen.
MAP 4: 634 rue St-Jean, 418/524-2122, www.chocomusee.com; Mon.-Wed. and Sat. 10am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sun. 11am-5:30pm
This shop was founded in 1959 by two Italians, nostalgic for their homeland. The massive wooden shelves are stocked with imported products. Italian coffees, olive oils, pestos, and balsamic vinegars take center stage, while at the back you’ll find a cheese and meat counter, where you can order a great panini—but hurry up, they go fast. Along with the groceries, they also sell imported kitchen accessories, coffee makers, crockery, and the famous French Laguiole knives. Stop in and try one of their specialties, an authentic espresso ristretto—the shortest coffee around.
MAP 4: 560 rue St-Jean, 418/529-4847, www.epicerie-europeenne.com; Mon.-Wed. 9am-6pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9am-9pm, Sat. 9am-5pm
Better known as MEC, this co-op was started by a couple of Canadian climbers in the 1970s and now has almost three million people as registered members. You must sign up to become a member in order to make a purchase, but the five bucks good-for-life membership pays for itself by the time you get to the checkout. The open-concept store design give you lots of room to roam the goods, which include everything from cycling gear to hiking boots, tents to sleeping bags. Even rental equipment is available; there really isn’t a better store dedicated to the outdoors (unless you want to hunt). Eco-friendly and pro-sustainability, the store hires clerks that are friendly, patient, and know their stuff.
MAP 4: 405 rue St-Joseph E., 418/522-8884, www.mec.ca; Mon.-Wed. 10am-7pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm
Whether inside or outside the walls, rue Saint-Jean is Québec City’s main shopping street. In Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town you’ll find a string of well-known stores, including Québec chains, women’s stores Jacob, San Francisco, Le Château, and internationally recognized brands like Crocs, American Apparel, and Foot Locker. It’s also along this strip that you’ll find magazines and bookstores selling English-language material. If you want to shop like the locals, check out the independent clothing boutiques and record stores in Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a continuation of the same street; you’ll find interesting shops just beyond the fortifications.
MAP 4: Between rue Couillard and ave. Salaberry
The main shopping strip in the Saint-Roch neighborhood, this street has an illustrious past that has recently been revived. Once the Fifth Avenue of Québec City, it is now the city’s coolest shopping district. You won’t find many well-known chains here except for the recently opened Urban Outfitters, the only store of its kind in the city. Independent lingerie boutiques can be found as well as some great shoe stores, home stores, and other fashion-forward boutiques. The best children’s store in the province, Benjo, is also located here, with a VIP entrance especially for the little ones.
MAP 4: Between rue St-Dominique and rue Caron
| Greater Québec City | Map 5 (tap here) |
The only bookstore dedicated to English books in Québec City is in Place de la Cité, one of the mega malls on the outskirts of town. The staff knows their English-language stuff and is always ready to help. The selection is, unsurprisingly, unbeatable, from New York Times best-sellers to literary fiction, humor, philosophy, travel, and kids books. It might not be as big as your local Barnes & Noble but it does have the most comprehensive collection of English books in the city and the atmosphere is quiet and calm—like it should be.
MAP 5: Place de la Cité, 164-2600 blvd. Laurier, 418/654-9523, www.lamaisonanglaise.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. 11:30am-5pm
A special treat for kids of all ages, this store is located in one of the malls outside of the city. Over 20 different kinds of plush toys are available, from teddy bears to rabbits, moose, and pigs. Once the selection has been made, the plush is then stuffed and given a passport with its date and place of birth printed inside. The staff is kid-friendly and excited about helping kids pick a companion. Choices hang at kid-level all around the brightly decorated store. Clothing like bathrobes and boxers and accessories like sunglasses and jewelry can added to give the new plush toy a bit of its own personal style.
MAP 5: Galeries de la Capitale, 5401 blvd. des Galeries, 418/623-5557, www.plushfactory.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm
Originating on rue Buade in Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town, this high-end department store is now the only branch of Holt Renfrew in Québec City. Opened at this location in 1965, it retains its elegance, with high ceilings, simple design, and the designer brands customers have come to expect. This location also offers fur services, which include everything from proper storing and cleaning to alterations and remodeling. Made-to-measure tailoring is available here as well.
MAP 5: Place Ste-Foy, 2452 blvd. Laurier, 418/656-6783, www.holtrenfrew.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
With over 70 years of history, Latulippe is one of the highly regarded stores in the region when it comes to gear for hunting and fishing. What used to be just a tiny, family-run store was recently renovated and is now a large, modern, two-floor store with everything you need for an outdoor adventure—boots, bags, tents, waterproof outerwear, and accessories. They even have gear for snowmobiling and ammunition, guns, and knives for hunting. And the staff is always full of advice and helpful tips, so just ask.
MAP 5: 637 rue St-Vallier W., 418/529-0024, www.latulippe.com; Mon.-Tues. 8:30am-5:30pm, Wed.-Fri. 8:30am-9pm, Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 11am-5pm
About a 20-minute drive from downtown Québec City, Galeries de La Capitale is one of the most fascinating malls in the province (especially for kids). Opened in 1981, it was the brainchild of businessman Marcel Adams and was filled with Canadian department store heavyweights Eaton’s, The Bay, Simons, and Woolco. Today, it has 280 stores, 35 restaurants, the biggest IMAX theater in Canada, and an indoor amusement park. Called Le Mega-Parc, it has 20 rides, including a Ferris wheel, roller coasters, a skating rink, and smaller rides and games that will make kids go wild.
MAP 5: 5401 blvd. des Galeries, 418/627-5800, www.galeriesdelacapitale.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9:30am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm
The biggest of the three malls, Laurier Québec, formerly called Place Laurier, is three levels high and boasts 350 stores. Opened in 1961, it is the largest mall in eastern Canada and one of the city’s top tourist attractions. Well-known stores like Old Navy, H&M, The Bay, Nike, Aldo, and American Apparel are all situated here, as are specialized boutiques including Laine, which carries wool and other knitting materials, and Vision Rock, where you can get a tattoo while you pick up a KISS wall-clock and T-shirt from your favorite hard-rock band. Laurier Québec offers free shuttle service between Vieux-Québec and the mall as well as to the nearby Aquarium du Québec.
MAP 5: 2700 blvd. Laurier, 418/651-5000, www.laurierquebec.com; Mon.-Wed. 10am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 10am-9pm, Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm
Part of the large shopping complex on boulevard Laurier in Sainte-Foy, Place de la Cité stands out thanks to the 17-story office building that’s attached to the mall’s concourse. It’s the home of 150 stores and restaurants, and you’ll find independent boutiques including Simone Paris, which caters to sizes 6-18; Québécois label Myco Anna; and Corset Corsaire, carrying exclusive prêt-à-porter labels from Europe. La Maison Anglaise, the only bookstore dedicated to English books in the region, is located here, as are sports stores including O’Neill, Sport Select, and Québec brand Chlorophylle.
MAP 5: 2600 blvd. Laurier, Sainte-Foy, 418/657-6920, www.placedelacite.com; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. noon-5pm
One of the three shopping malls that make up the impressively large complex in the region close to Université Laval just outside of the city, Place Ste-Foy is also one of the oldest. Built in 1958, it is considered the best shopping center in Québec City for upscale boutiques and labels. Canada’s preeminent luxury department store, Holt Renfrew, has been located here since 1965, and among the mall’s 135 stores you’ll find other top-of-the line brands like Birks, Swarovski, Lacoste, and BCBG Maxazria.
MAP 5: 2452 blvd. Laurier, 418/653-4184, www.placestefoy.ca; Mon.-Wed. 9:30am-5:30pm, Thurs.-Fri. 9:30am-9pm, Sat. 9am-5pm, Sun. 10am-5pm