| Getting There |
A number of major airlines fly directly into Québec City’s teeny-tiny Aéroport International Jean-Lesage de Québec (418/640-2600, www.aeroportdequebec.com). Most air traffic comes from Montréal, though there are a few direct flights from within Canada as well as some international flights, mostly from France and from a few major U.S. cities, including Detroit, Chicago, Newark, and Cleveland.
The airport is about 15 kilometers from downtown; there is no bus or shuttle service available, so the only way to get to downtown is by taxi, which will set you back about $35.
Train passengers arrive at Québec City at the Gare du Palais (450 rue de la Gare-du-Palais, 418/525-3000) in Vieux-Québec’s Lower Town. Depending on where you’re staying and the amount of baggage you’re carrying, it might be wise to take a taxi. City buses are also available just outside the terminal to Upper Town, including bus 800, which will take you through Saint-Jean-Baptiste and up to the Grande-Allée, Parliament, and the Plains area. A single ride costs $2.75.
Buses to Québec arrive at the same place as the trains at Gare du Palais (320 rue Abraham-Martin, 418/525-3000), near the Vieux-Port; most hotels will be a short cab ride or uphill walk away.
Québec City can be reached by Autoroute 20 in the south and Autoroute 40 in the north. The drive from Montréal will take approximately 2.5 hours, and though the drive along Route 40 is more scenic, it’s also a little bit longer. From Toronto, Route 401 connects with Route 20, as do I-87 in New York and I-89 and I-91 in Vermont. Arriving on Route 20, follow the signs for Pont Pierre-Laporte, and once you’ve crossed the bridge, turn right onto boulevard Laurier, which becomes Grande-Allée. Route 40 turns into boulevard Charest as you approach the city.
Short-haul 50-minute flights depart from Québec City 12 times a day on Air Canada (800/247-2262, www.aircanada.com), though by the time you go to the airport, check in, and collect your baggage afterwards, it might be just as fast to drive.
The train is a fast and fairly efficient way to travel, though the costs can sometimes be prohibitive. VIA Rail (888/842-7245, www.viarail.ca) runs the only service between the two cities and offers four daily departures from both Montréal’s Gare Centrale (895 rue de la Gauchetière W., 514/989-2626) and Québec City’s Gare du Palais (450 rue de la Gare-du-Palais, 418/525-3000). Train times run anywhere from 3 to 3.5 hours, and a regular one-way ticket costs $102 before taxes, though seat sales can bring the price as low as $60.
Both cities are served by the Orléans Express (888/999-3977, www.orleansexpress.com), with hourly departures from both Montréal’s Gare d’Autocars (505 blvd. de Maisonneuve E., 514/842-2281, www.stationcentrale.com) and Québec’s Gare du Palais (320 rue Abraham-Martin, 418/525-3000). A round-trip ticket costs approximately $80 and the ride can take anywhere from three to five hours.
Driving is often the quickest and easiest way to get to Montréal from Québec City. The drive can last anywhere from 2.5 to 4 hours depending on traffic. Take Autoroute 20 or Route 40 and head west. Heading into Montréal on Route 20, follow the signs for Pont Jacques-Cartier, which will take you straight into the heart of the Plateau. From Route 40, exit on any number of southbound streets, including Papineau, St-Denis, and St-Laurent.
Taking the 40 instead of the 20 will add approximately 20 minutes onto your trip, but it’s more scenic and you have the option of stopping off at Trois Trois-Rivières at about the halfway point.
There are also a couple of ride-share companies that can help save costs for both drivers and passengers: Allo Stop (www.allostop.com) and Amigo Express (www.amigoexpress.com).
| Getting Around |
Québec City buses (www.rtcquebec.ca) are fast and efficient, with three major bus lines, called MétroBus, that run frequently and cover all the major areas of the city—some will even take you as far out as Chute Montmorency. A single bus ticket costs $3 and also acts as a transfer if you’re transferring lines; if you don’t have a ticket the bus accepts exact change.
The city also has a few buses aimed at tourists. The Navette Desjardins runs from June to mid-October and carries passengers from Beauport and Domain des Maizrets, north of the city, through the Vieux-Port and Lower Town and out to the Aquarium du Quebec and Promenade de Samuel de Champlain. A ticket costs $3 for all-day unlimited use, and a child under 5 rides for free. Carrying approximately 20 passengers at a time, the Ecobus costs $2 and takes you from Vieux-Québec Lower Town to Upper Town.
Driving in Québec City is not ideal, especially if you’re heading into Vieux-Québec’s Upper and Lower Towns. The small, winding streets make them difficult to navigate, especially if you’re not used to that type of driving. In the summer, many of the streets are blocked off to accommodate pedestrians, mainly during the day and into the night. In the winter, it’s these same streets that are covered in ice and snow. Though there is light traffic in general in Québec City, parking is still a problem, especially on streets with slopes of 45 degrees. The city has very few underground parking lots.
The speed limit on Canadian highways is 100 kilometers per hour (kph), and it’s 50 kph on city streets unless otherwise noted. U.S. citizens don’t need an international license and neither do drivers from England or France. If your driver’s license is in a language other than English or French, you need an International Driver’s Permit; see the Québec government website (www.saaq.gouv.qc.ca) for more information. Members of AAA (American Automobile Association, www.aaa.com) are covered under the Canadian equivalent CAA (www.caa.ca). Gasoline is more expensive than in the United States so fill up before crossing the border.
Many of the large rental companies (Avis, Budget, Discount) are available in Québec City. The minimum age to rent a vehicle is 25, and rates run the gamut from $34 to $60 per day depending on time of year.
Québec City has a ton of different taxi companies. Try Taxi Coop Québec (418/525-5191). The initial charge is $3.30, each kilometer adds $1.60, and each minute of waiting is $0.60. Tip is usually 10-15 percent. Some drivers know the city well, others not so much, so make sure you have your destination with the cross street written down to show the driver, especially if it’s a word you’re unsure how to pronounce.
Unless you’re an experienced biker and brought your own ride, biking in Québec City is not recommended; there are some seriously steep hills that aren’t fun going up or down. That being said, if you’re planning on staying exclusively, or at least mostly, in Lower Town or Upper Town, then renting a bike is a great way to get around, and will allow you to ride along the river and the Vieux-Port.
| Visas and Officialdom |
All visitors must have a valid passport or other accepted secure documents to enter the country, even those entering from the United States by road or train. Citizens of the United States, Australia, New Zealand, Israel, Japan, and most western European countries don’t need visas to enter Canada for stays up to 180 days. U.S. permanent residents are also exempt. Travelers who travel regularly between Canada and the United States should consider getting a Nexus membership; details are available online (www.cdp.gov).
Nationals from South Africa, China, and about 150 other countries must apply for a temporary resident visa (TRV) in their home country. Full details can be found at Citizen and Immigration Canada (888/242-2100, www.cic.gc.ca). Single-entry visitor visas are valid for six months and cost $75; multiple-entry visas last for two years, as long as a single stay doesn’t last for longer than six months, and cost $150. A separate visa is required if you intend to work in Canada.
Depending on how long your stay in Canada is, you’re allowed to take various amounts of goods back home without paying any duty or import tax. There is a limit on the amount of tobacco and liquor you can bring back duty-free, and some countries have a limit on perfumes. For exact amounts, check with the customs department in your home country. Also check the Canadian Border Services Agency (505/636-5064, www.cbsa-asfa.gc.ca) for details on bringing in and taking home goods.
There are very strict rules on bringing plants, flowers, food, and other vegetation into the country, so it’s not advisable to bring them. If you’re 18 years or older, you’re allowed to bring into the country 50 cigars or 200 grams of tobacco, as well as 1.14 liters of liquor, 1.5 liters of wine, or 24 cans or bottles of beer. If you bring more, you’ll face a hefty fine. Those traveling with their pets will need a health certificate and a rabies vaccination certificate. The vaccination must be carried out 30 days before your departure. Nonresidents can be refunded for the GST (government sales tax) paid on purchases made in Canada. If you want a refund, however, keep your receipts; to be eligible, your receipts must add up to $200. Call 800/668-4748 for details.
| Conduct and Customs |
While the rest of the country celebrates Canada Day, the nation’s national holiday, on July 1, Quebeckers move. It is the unofficial moving day for renters across the province—this is the day most leases change hands—and it is usually a hot, sweaty day with cars, vans, trucks, SUVs, and even bikes loaded to the hilt and headed for new digs. It’s also not uncommon to see people simply schlepping their belongings by foot.
Don’t even think about renting a car on this day, as there likely won’t be any left. A thrifter’s paradise, the aftermath of the move leaves sidewalks and alleyways littered with discarded belongings and unwanted junk, which may turn out to be your treasure.
As in most Canadian provinces, if you’re looking for wine, beer, or spirits, you have to get it at the SAQ (Société des Alcools de Québec, www.saq.ca), the store run by the provincial liquor board. Found all over the city, they carry a wide selection of wine and spirits and a small selection of imported beer. Québec differs from most other provinces in that beer and wine can also be purchased in your local grocery and corner stores.
The selection of wine and beer varies from store to store; if you’re in an upscale neighborhood, the selection of wine at both the dépanneur (corner store) and the grocery store will likely be of a higher caliber than what you’d find elsewhere. If you’re looking for beer, a dép is your best bet. If you don’t find the brand you’re looking for, just step into the fridge yourself; it might look like just another display case but step through the camouflaged door and you’re in beerville. Drinking age in Québec is 18, and stores stop selling alcohol at 11pm.
Tips and service charges aren’t covered in the bill; instead a 15-percent tip should be added to the total bill at restaurants and bars at which you run a tab. When you order a drink at a bar, you’re usually expected to pay when the drink is brought to you; a $1-2 tip for drinks is the standard. Tip the same for valet parking attendants, bellhops at the hotel, and coat-check attendants. Housekeeping staff should be tipped $3-5.
Smoking is illegal in bars, cafés, clubs, and restaurants and not permitted in enclosed public spaces. Outdoors on the sidewalk or on a restaurant’s or bar’s patio is fair game. Some hotels, however, still have smoking and non-smoking options, though it’s becoming rarer. There are a few cigar bars, including Société Cigare in Québec City, where smoking indoors is allowed due to specialized ventilation systems. You must be 18 years or older to buy tobacco in Québec.
| Tips for Travelers |
There are a ton of kid-friendly activities in Québec City, most of which will tucker any kid out by the end of the day. Top choices include ice-skating and tobogganing in winter, wading pools and bike rides along the canal in summer. Public parks with playgrounds can be found throughout the city and are perfect for blowing off some steam. However, some of the sleeker, cooler boutique hotels might not be the most fun for the kids. Children are also given half-price or free entry to most museums and attractions; some venues offer family rates. Hotels will recommend babysitting services if none are available in-house.
Québec is a relatively safe city and women should feel at ease traveling alone. Still, the usual rules apply: Women should avoid walking alone on quiet streets and dimly lit areas late at night. Violence is far less prevalent here than in the States, but if you are attacked or sexually assaulted call 911 or the Sexual Assault Center (418/522-2120).
Québec is one of the top destinations for gay travelers. In 1977 Québec became the second political entity (after Holland) to include a non-discrimination clause on the basis of sexual orientation in its charter of rights. Gay marriage is legal in Québec, and attitudes toward homosexuality in the province are open and tolerant.
Though there are a number of LGBT publications, monthly magazine Fugues (www.fugues.com) is the most comprehensive and has information on everything from hotels to saunas and upcoming gay events.
Most public buildings, including tourist offices, museums, and sights, are wheelchair accessible.
Access to Travel (www.accesstotravel.gc.ca) is a guide to accessible transportation across the country.
Kéroul (514/252-3104, www.keroul.qc.ca) is an association that specializes in tourism for people with disabilities. It publishes Québec Accessible, which lists 1,000-plus hotels, restaurants, museums, and theaters that are accessible. For English speakers, there is The Accessible Road, which offers information on everything from the most accessible top sights to how to get a disabled parking sticker. It can be downloaded for free from the website.
| Health and Safety |
Canadians have free health care, but it’s not free for visitors, so get travel insurance before you leave your home country. Emergency room waits can be lengthy, and if you’re not a Canadian citizen, the treatment could be pricey (though not compared to U.S. hospitals).
For emergency treatment in Québec City, head to the Hôpital Laval (2725 chemin Ste-Foy, 418/656-8711).
For minor maladies in Québec City, the closest clinic can be found by calling 418/529-4777 or checking online at www.csssvc.qc.ca. Though the clinics will be glad to help you, you will have to pay cash to see a doctor; they don’t take debit or credit.
If you’re feeling unwell and just want some advice, call the health hotline (811) from any land line to speak with a nurse 24 hours a day.
In Québec City, the largest pharmacy is Jean Coutu (110 blvd. René-Lévesque, 418/522-1235, Mon.-Sat. 9am-9pm, Sun. 10am-9pm), near avenue Cartier.
The fire department, police, and ambulance can all be reached by dialing 911. When in doubt, you can reach the operator by dialing 0. There’s also the Poison Center (800/463-5060) if you’re worried about something you’ve ingested.
Québec City is relatively safe and violent crime is rare. Tourists are more likely to be the targets of thieves, like pickpockets at crowded bars, markets, and bus stations. Cars with out-of-province license plates are also targets, so make sure not to leave anything of value in the car and remove your car registration and identification papers.
| Information and Services |
Prices quoted in this guide are in Canadian dollars. Canadian coins come in 5-cent (nickel), 10-cent (dime), 25-cent (quarter), $1 (loonie), and $2 (toonie) pieces. Paper money comes in $5 (blue), $10 (purple), $20 (green), $50 (red), and $100 (brown). In 2013, the government phased out the penny, so most companies round up their prices to the closest 5-cents. Though the Canadian dollar’s value was once much lower than the American dollar, it now trades at a few cents off par; www.xe.com has the most current rates.
ATMs are all round the city, not just in banks. Though if you’re getting money out from a foreign account, the safest way is to get it from a proper bank machine, to avoid fraud. Most banks charge you an additional fee when you withdraw a currency different from that of your home country as well as the original transaction fee. Check your daily withdrawal limit, so you don’t get caught short.
Counters dedicated solely to exchanging money are becoming rarer. It’s much simpler just to head to the bank. Foreign-exchange desks can also be found at the main tourist office and at the airport. Try Transchange International (43 rue de Baude, 418/694-6906).
Major international credit cards are accepted at most stores, hotels, and restaurants. Carrying a credit card means you don’t have the worry of carrying cash and it also gives you excellent exchange rates. Visa and MasterCard are the most widely accepted, though certain places also accept American Express and Diners Club.
Airports have information offices open year-round. For Québec province info about Montréal, Québec City, and environs, visit Bonjour Québec (www.bonjourquebec.com).
In Vieux-Québec’s Upper Town there’s Centre Infotouriste (12 rue Ste-Anne, 800/363-7777, late June-early Oct. daily 9am-7pm, early Oct.-late June daily 9am-5pm), and backing on to the Plains of Abraham is another Centre Infotouriste (835 ave. Wilfrid-Laurier, 800/266-5687, late June-late Aug. daily 9am-7pm, late Aug.-mid-June daily 9am-5pm).
Thanks to the massive popularity of cell phones, public pay phones are becoming almost impossible to find, but if you do manage to fine one, a single local call will set you back $0.50. Though many are coin operated, some also accept phone cards and credit cards. Québec City’s area code is 418. When dialing local numbers, you must include the area code.
Toll-free numbers begin with 800, 866, or 888 and must be preceded by a 1. Most of these numbers work in both Canada and the United States, but some may only work in a specified province. Dialing 0 for the operator or 911 for emergency services is free of charge from land lines and public phones, but calling 411 for directory assistance will cost you.
Tribrand model cell phones working on GSM 1900 and other frequencies are the only foreign cell phones that will work in Canada. If your phone doesn’t work, it might be worth picking up an inexpensive phone at an electronics store and getting a pay-as-you-go plan. Travelers from the United States will likely have service, though roaming charges will probably apply; check with your provider for details.
Québec City’s tourism board has created apps for both Android and iPhone, and their website is also mobile-friendly. Head to www.quebecregion.com to check them out before downloading from the appropriate app store.
A number of cafés offer free Wi-Fi; you can register for free at Î le Sans Fil (www.ilesansfil.org) and find out where the 150-plus places are where you can get online with your laptop. Visit www.zapquebec.org for free Wi-Fi in Québec. If you left your computer at home and can’t check your email at your hotel, your best bets are the local libraries.
In Québec City, a couple of libraries offer free Internet access to visitors. Bibliothèque Saint-Jean-Baptiste (755 rue St-Jean, 418/641-6798, Mon.-Tues. and Thurs. noon-5pm, Wed. noon-8pm, Fri. 10am-5:30pm, Sat. 1pm-5pm), in the Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste, offers an hour of free access, and Bibliothèque Gabrielle-Roy (350 rue St-Joseph E., 418/641-6789, Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-9pm, Sat.-Sun. 10am-5pm) in Saint-Roch offers two hours of free access.
Many hotels, though not all, offer free Wi-Fi access, and the majority also have public computers.
Québec City’s main post office is at 5 rue du Fort in Upper Town and offers a number of services. Stamps can also be purchased at newsstands, convenience stores, and tourist shops. Standard first-class airmail postage for letters and postcards costs $0.65 to Canadian destinations and $1.10 to the United States. Other destinations cost $1.85.
The Globe & Mail (www.globeandmail.com) and the National Post (www.nationalpost.com) are the country’s two national papers, and while both cover national and international events as well as the arts, the Globe leans more to the center-left and the Post to the right.
For French readers there’s the federalist La Presse and separatist-leaning Le Devoir, both of which cover the news and art of the entire province, not just the Francophone community (though that’s a large part of it). In Québec there’s Le Soleil, a great little paper with a focus on events in the capital. There’s also the Francophone alternative weekly Voir (www.voir.ca), great for getting the latest scoop on what’s going on in town or for scoping out their restaurant reviews.
L’actualité is the Québec monthly news magazine, and Maclean’s is Canada’s only weekly news magazine.
The main public-radio and television stations are run by the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation. The CBC is the English-language component and Radio-Canada is the French-language component; both are revered for their long broadcast history. The other major English-language network is the Canadian Television Network (CTV), which broadcasts both Canadian and U.S. programs as well as nightly newscasts.
For Francophone audiences there’s Télé-Québec (TVA) and Télévision Quatre-Saison (TQS), both of which broadcast news programs, movies, and shows from France, as well as dubbed American sitcoms and dramas.
Radio stations in Québec are mostly Francophone, with the exception of the English-language artists they play. Anglophones can tune into CBC Québec 1 (104.7 FM streaming), the city’s only English-language radio station for all their cultural, news, and educational programs. Tune into CHYZ (94.3 FM) to hear what the students at Université Laval are listening to. CHIK (98.9 FM) gives you top pop and Francophone hits, and Radio-Canada (106.3 FM) keeps you informed in French about news and culture.
Like the United States and Japan, Canada uses 110-volt, 60-cycle electrical power. Canadian electrical goods have a plug with two flat, vertical prongs and sometimes a third rounded prong. Travelers from outside North America should bring a plug adapter for small appliances.
Canada uses the metric system of measurement. Distances are measured in kilometers, liquids in liters and milliliters, but height, strangely enough, is measured in feet.
Québec City is on eastern standard time (EST/EDT), the same as New York and Toronto. Canada switches to daylight saving time (one hour later than standard time) from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November. “Spring forward, fall back,” is a simple way to remember how to set your clocks properly. In Québec the 24-hour clock is used for most schedules, including movies and trains.