Touch-Me Texture
FROM RIBS TO COMPLEX CABLING, it is all included in this texture-rich section. Accessories, sweaters, vests, and even bottoms feature combinations of knits and purls that will entrance both knitter and recipient. You might just find yourself rereading the reference section in an effort to size it up for you.
This funky, chunky accessory is stretchy and accommodating for growing boys. The cords are plaited and then knit back together for a three-dimensional texture. Charlie and Mattox are both sporting the size Medium.
Standard Size: Small (Medium, Large)
Finished Length: 26 (28, 30)"/66 (71, 76) cm
12-st garter tab measures approximately 2"/5 cm wide
55 (60, 65) yd./50 (55, 60) m worsted weight #4 yarn (shown in Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Worsted; 100% merino; 225 yd./206 m per 4 oz./114 g skein; Brick)
• US 6 (4 mm) double-pointed
• 4 safety pins
• Belt buckle
CO 4 sts.
Row 1: Knit.
Inc Row: K1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1.
Work last 2 rows twice—8 sts.
Knit 1 row.
Inc Row: K1, M1L, k2, M1L, k2, M1R, k2, M1R, k1—12 sts.
Sts will now be separated so that each cord can be worked separately.
Sl first 3 sts to RH needle. Sl next 3 sts to first safety pin, the foll 3 sts to a second pin, and the last 3 sts to a third pin. Sl sts on RH needle back to LH needle, ready to work.
Work I-cord (see page 28) over these 3 sts until cord measures 28 (30, 32)"/71 (76, 81) cm from garter tab. Sl these 3 sts to fourth safety pin. Break yarn.
Work separate I-cords on each set of 3 sts, breaking yarn at end and placing back on safety pin.
Four cords are secured with safety pins. Plait to end of cords.
Cords will not be exactly even due to pulling at different tensions. Once you have plaited to the bottom of the shortest cord, simply pull out some of the other cords to make them match if necessary.
Place all 12 sts, in order of finished plait position, back onto a single DPN and prepare to resume garter stitch.
Knit 1 row.
Dec Row: *K1, K2tog; rep from * to end of row—8 sts.
Knit every row in garter stitch for 1"/2.5 cm.
BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Wrap BO end around metal belt buckle, sew BO edge to Dec Row. Weave in all loose ends. Block.
My boys are forever wanting to change into their “comfy shorts,” which in the past has referred to a pair of gym or sweatshorts. This pattern was inspired by my desire to have them beg me to change into something that I knit for them instead. Jesse tested out the size Small shorts on the riverbank, and I’m happy to report that he did not want to take them off.
Standard Size: Small (Medium, Large)
Finished Waist: 20 (22, 24)"/51 (56, 61) cm
20 sts and 28 rows in St st on larger needles = 4"/10 cm square
540 (710, 910) yd./500 (650, 830) m worsted weight #4 yarn (shown in Berroco Vintage; 50% acrylic, 40% wool, 10% nylon; 217 yd. /198 m per 3.5 oz./100 g skein; Caramel)
• US 6 (4 mm) 20"/50 cm circular needle
• US 7 (4.5 mm) 20"/50 cm circular needle
• 20 (22, 24)"/51 (56, 61) cm length of 1"/2.5 cm elastic
With smaller needles, CO 100 (110, 120) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Rib: *K1, p1; rep from * around.
Work in Rib for 1.5"/3.75 cm.
Purl 1 row.
Resume Rib for 1.5"/3.75 cm.
Seaming Rnd: Fold the knit section in half along turning ridge so that purled row becomes bottom edge of piece. Join working sts to cast-on edge as follows: *with left needle, pick up the first st from the cast-on edge and knit tog with next working st; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4.
Switch to larger needles.
Inc Rnd: *K1, M1, k2, M1; rep from * to last 1 (2, 0) st, k to end of rnd—166 (182, 200) sts.
Short Row 1 (RS): K9 (10, 11), W&T.
Short Row 2 (WS): P17 (19, 22), W&T.
Short Row 3: K to wrap, pick up wrap and work tog with next st, k8 (9, 10), W&T.
Short Row 4: P to wrap, pick up wrap and work tog with next st, p8 (9, 10), W&T.
Work Short Rows 3–4 a total of 3 times (8 total short rows). Pick up rem wraps on next round. Knit to end of round.
Switch to larger needles.
Set-up for Leg Stripe: K37 (41, 45), p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k73 (81, 90), p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k to end of rnd.
Work in the round, in textured Leg Stripe Pattern until piece measures 10 (11, 12)"/25.5 (28, 30.5) cm from top edge of waistband (purled row).
Next Rnd: K1, pm, work 82 (90, 98) sts, pm, k1 (1, 2), pm, work to last 0 (0, 1) st, pm, k0 (0, 1)—1 (1, 2) sts in each crotch section.
Crotch Shaping Rnd: K1, [sm, M1R, work to marker, M1L, sm, work to marker] twice, work to end—4 sts inc.
Work Crotch Shaping Rnd EOR a total of 3 times—178 (194, 212) sts.
Work one round.
Knit to first marker, removing marker, k1, sl last 9 (9, 10) sts to scrap yarn to place on hold for back crotch, work to 1 st before marker, sl next 9 (9, 10) sts to scrap yarn to place on hold for front crotch (removing markers), sl next 80 (88, 96) sts to hold for left leg—80 (88, 96) sts.
Join rem sts to work in the round, continuing striping down the side of leg, until leg measures 7 (10, 13)"/17.75 (25.5, 33) cm from split.
Purl one round.
Knit for 1"/2.5 cm. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Place rem 80 (88, 96) sts on needles and work left leg same as right.
Sew 1"/2.5 cm hem of each pant leg to the WS, with purled round as bottom of leg.
Insert elastic inside waistband and sew length together. Use yarn tail to sew casing opening shut.
Block.
I can’t count the number of times that my boys have come out of the house with clothing on inside out. This gear is completely reversible so that your kids won’t have to think twice. The scarf features an opening so that it doesn’t have to be double-wrapped around his neck to stay on. Bulky yarn creates lots of give, and therefore these one-size pieces keeping Tucker cozy will fit toddlers to young adults.
Finished Circumference: 16.75"/42.5 cm
10 sts and 15 rows in Triangles = 4"/10 cm square
75 yd./70 m bulky weight #5 yarn (shown in Spud and Chloë Outer; 65% wool, 35% organic cotton; 60 yd./55 m per 3.5 oz./100 g skein; Bubble)
• US 11 (8 mm) 16"/40 cm circular needle
• US 11 (8 mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• Stitch marker
Finished Length: 50"/127 cm
Finished Width: 8"/20 cm
10 sts and 15 rows in Triangles = 4"/10 cm square
165 yd./150 m bulky weight #5 yarn (shown in Spud and Chloë Outer; 65% wool, 35% organic cotton; 60 yd./55 m per 3.5 oz./100 g skein; Bubble)
• US 11 (8 mm) 16"/40 cm circular needle
• US 11 (8 mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• Stitch marker
Using 2 DPNs to work back and forth, CO 3 sts.
Purl 1 RS row.
Inc Row (WS): K1, M1L, k to last st, M1R—2 sts inc.
Work Inc Row every other row a total of 5 times—13 sts. Set aside.
With circular needle, CO 3 sts, purl across 13 sts from first ear flap (RS facing), cable CO 10 sts, purl across 13 sts from second ear flap, CO 3 sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts—42 sts.
Rnd 1: [K4, p1, k2, p1, k4, p2] 3 times.
Rnd 2: [K3, p2, k2, p2, k3, p2] 3 times.
Rnd 3: [K2, p3, k2, p3, k2, p2] 3 times.
Rnd 4: [K1, p4, k2, p4, k1, p2] 3 times.
Rnd 5: [P5, k2, p7] 3 times.
Rnd 6: Rep Rnd 4.
Rnd 7: Rep Rnd 3.
Rnd 8: Rep Rnd 2.
Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 1.
Rnd 10: [K12, p2] 3 times.
Rep 10 Rnds for pattern.
Work Triangles twice.
Work Rnds 1–6 once more.
Note: Switch to DPNs when necessary.
Rnd 1: [K2tog, p3, k2, p3, ssk, p2] 3 times—36 sts.
Rnd 2: [K2tog, p2, k2, p2, ssk, p2] 3 times—30 sts.
Rnd 3: [K2tog, p1, k2, p1, ssk, p2] 3 times—24 sts.
Rnd 4: [K2tog, k2, ssk, p2] 3 times—18 sts.
Rnd 5: [K2tog, ssk, p2] 3 times—12 sts.
Rnd 6: *P2tog; rep from * around—6 sts.
Break yarn, weave through remaining sts and secure.
Use tails from ear flaps to sew up any gaps from joining round. Weave in all loose ends.
CO 21 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, k3, p1, k4, p3, k4, p1, k4.
Row 2: Sl 1, p3, k2, p3, k3, p3, k2, p4.
Row 3: Sl 1, k3, p3, k2, p3, k2, p3, k4.
Row 4: Sl 1, p3, k4, p1, k3, p1, k4, p4.
Row 5: Sl 1, k3, p13, k4.
Row 6: Rep Row 4.
Row 7: Rep Row 3.
Row 8: Rep Row 2.
Row 9: Rep Row 1.
Row 10: Sl 1, p8, k3, p9.
Rep Rows 1–10 for pattern.
Work Triangles until scarf measures 35"/39 cm from CO edge.
Next Row: Work 5 sts in pat, work 11-stitch buttonhole (see page 29) over next 11 sts, work to end of row.
Resume Triangles until scarf measures 50"/127 cm from CO edge, ending after a full repeat of pattern.
BO all sts.
Weave in all loose ends. Block. Edges may roll slightly depending on the fiber content of your yarn choice.
This stretchy stitch pattern lends itself to an extended fit. Extra length in the hat means it can be worn initially as a slouch and then later as a beanie for a growing head. The textured chevron is both modern and an easy pattern to memorize. Mattox is wearing the hat in Child size and the mittens in Small/Medium.
Standard Size: Small/Medium (Medium/Large)
Finished Circumference: 7 (9.5)"/18 (24) cm
18 sts and 24 rows in Chevron Pattern on larger needles = 4"/10 cm square
125 (185) yd./115 (170) m worsted weight #4 yarn (shown in Spud and Chloë Sweater; 55% wool, 45% cotton; 160 yd./146 m per 3.5 oz./100 g skein; Beluga)
• US 6 (4 mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• US 7 (4.5 mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• Stitch marker
Standard Size: Toddler (Child, Adult Small)
Finished Circumference: 17.75 (19.5, 21.25)"/45 (50, 54) cm
18 sts and 24 rows in Chevron Pattern = 4"/10 cm square
120 (140, 160) yd./110 (130, 150) m worsted weight #4 yarn (shown in Spud and Chloë Sweater; 55% wool, 45% cotton; 160 yd./146 m per 3.5 oz./100 g skein; Beluga)
• US 6 (4 mm) 16"/40 cm circular needle
• US 7 (4.5 mm) 16"/40 cm circular needle
• US 7 (4.5 mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• Stitch marker
*K1, p1; rep from * around.
Rnds 1–2: *K5, p1, k1, p1; rep from * around.
Rnds 3–4: *P4, [k1, p1] twice; rep from * around.
Rnds 5–6: *K3, p1, k1, p1, k2; rep from * around.
Rnds 7–8: *P2, k1, p1, k1, p3; rep from * around.
Rnds 9–10: *K1, p1, k1, p1, k4; rep from * around.
Rnds 11–12: *K1, p1, k1, p5; rep from * around.
Rnds 13–14: *K1, p1, k5, p1; rep from * around.
Rnds 15–16: *K1, p5, k1, p1; rep from * around.
With smaller circular needles, CO 80 (88, 96) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Work in Rib for 1"/2.5 cm. Switch to larger needles.
Work in Chevron Pattern until hat measures 6 (6.5, 7)"/15.25 (16.5, 18) cm from CO edge, ending after Rnd 2, 6, 10, or 14 of pattern.
Next Rnd: Remove marker. Work in pat to beginning of first full p5 segment of pattern (between 2–7 sts worked), place new marker for end of rnd.
Note: Switch to DPNs when necessary.
Rnd 1: *P5, k1, k2tog; rep from * around—70 (77, 84) sts.
Rnd 2: *P5, k2tog; rep from * around—60 (66, 72) sts.
Rnd 3: *K4, p1, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 4: *K4, k2tog; rep from * around—50 (55, 60) sts.
Rnd 5: *P3, k2; rep from * around.
Rnd 6: *P3, k2tog; rep from * around—40 (44, 48) sts.
Rnd 7: *K2, p1, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 8: *K2, k2tog; rep from * around—30 (33, 36) sts.
Rnd 9: *P1, k2; rep from * around.
Rnd 10: *P1, k2tog; rep from * around—20 (22, 24) sts.
Rnd 11: *K2tog; rep from * around—10 (11, 12) sts.
Break yarn, weave through remaining sts and secure.
Weave in all loose ends.
With smaller needles, CO 32 (40) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches.
Work in Rib for 1"/2.5 cm. Switch to larger needles.
Work in Chevron Pattern until mitten measures 5 (6)"/ 13 (15) cm from CO edge.
Left Hand Only
Work 4 sts in Chevron Pattern, do not break yarn but k5 (6) sts with a length of scrap yarn, sl these 5 (6) sts back to LH needle and resume Chevron Pattern with working yarn.
Right Hand Only
Work in Chevron Pattern to last 9 (10) sts, do not break yarn but k5 (6) sts with a length of scrap yarn, sl these 5 (6) sts back to LH needle and resume Chevron Pattern with working yarn to end of round.
Both Hands
Continue in Chevron Pattern until mitten measures 8 (9.5)"/20 (24) cm from CO edge, ending after Rnd 4, 8, or 12 of pattern.
Next Rnd: Remove marker. Knit to first purl stitch of pattern (between 1–5 sts worked), place new marker for end of rnd.
Rnd 1: *P1, k1, p1, k3, k2tog; rep from * around—28 (35) sts.
Rnd 2: *P1, k1, p1, k2, k2tog; rep from * around—24 (30) sts.
Rnd 3: *P1, k1, p1, k1, k2tog; rep from * around—20 (25) sts.
Rnd 4: *P1, k1, p1, k2tog; rep from * around—16 (20) sts.
Rnd 5: *P1, k1, k2tog; rep from * around—12 (15) sts.
Rnd 6: *P1, k2tog; rep from * around—8 (10) sts.
Rnd 7: *K2tog; rep from * around—4 (5) sts.
Break yarn, weave through rem sts and secure.
Place 5 (6) sts on bottom on single DPN, and 4 (5) sts on top on second DPN. Carefully pull out scrap yarn for thumb. Knit sts from bottom DPN. Use a free DPN to pick up and knit 2 sts in the gap between bottom and top needles, then knit sts from top DPN. Use another DPN to pick up and knit 2 sts on other gap. Place marker for end of round—13 (15) sts.
Knit 10 (12) rounds.
Rnd 1: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to last 1 (3) sts, k to end of rnd—10 (12) sts.
Rnd 2: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to last 1 (0) sts, k to end of rnd—7 (8) sts.
Rnd 3: *K2tog; rep from * to last 1 (0) sts, k to end of rnd—4 sts.
Break yarn, weave through rem sts and secure.
Weave in all loose ends.
This bulky sweater features funky twisted stitch columns from bottom to top. It’s the perfect design for when you need to get a project completed quickly (thanks to the larger gauge). Kevin is getting creative in a size 10.
Standard Size: 4 (6, 8, 10, 12)
Finished Chest: 25.25 (27.5, 29.75, 32, 33.25)"/64 (70, 75.5, 81, 84.5) cm
14 sts and 19 rows in St st = 4"/10 cm square
Bulky weight #5 yarn [shown in Plucky Knitter Plucky Bulky; 100% merino; 135 yd./123 m per 4 oz./113 g skein; Barn Door (A) and Dirty Martini (B)]
• Color A: 410 (460, 550, 640, 720) yd./375 (420, 500, 585, 660) m
• Color B: 70 (75, 80, 85, 95) yd./64 (70, 75, 80, 85) m
• US 11 (8 mm) 24"/60 cm circular needle
• US 11 (8 mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• Stitch markers
• This pattern is worked bottom-up with raglan-style seamless sleeves and a crew neck.
• The neckline is worked in an I-cord bind-off.
Knit into second st on LH needle, do not slide off needle.
Knit into first st on LH needle, slide both sts off needle.
Rnd 1: *K2, p2; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: *X2, p2; rep from * around.
Repeat these 2 rnds for pattern.
With DPNs and B, CO 24 (24, 28, 28, 32) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Work Crossover Rib twice. Switch to A. Knit 1 round.
Inc Rnd: *K1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc.
Work Inc Rnd every 10 rnds a total of 4 (5, 4, 5, 5) times—32 (34, 36, 38, 42) sts.
Work even until sleeve measures 12.5 (12.75, 13.5, 14.75, 16.25)"/31.75 (32.25, 34.25, 37.5, 41.25) cm from CO edge.
Next Rnd: K to last 3 sts, sl next 6 sts to scrap yarn (removing marker) and place on hold for underarm—26 (28, 30, 32, 36) sts.
Break yarn and slip remaining sts to hold.
Note: Create 4 bobbins of B after working hem. Carry yarn for A across columns of B as though stranding, but do not carry B, working from a separate bobbin at each column.
With circular needles and B, CO 88 (96, 104, 112, 116) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Work Crossover Rib twice.
Next Rnd: *With B, k2, with A, k6, with B, k2,** with A, k34 (38, 42, 46, 48), rep from * to **, with A, k to end of rnd.
Next Rnd: *With B, X2, with A, k6, with B, X2,** with A, k34 (38, 42, 46, 48), rep from * to **, with A, k to end of rnd.
Repeat last two rounds for body, working Crossover sts every other round in column. When body measures 9.5 (10, 11.5, 12.75, 13)"/24 (25.5, 29.25, 32.25, 33) cm from CO edge, join body and sleeves, ending after a Crossover Rnd.
Note: Continue working Crossover sts every other round and colorwork as set up for body throughout decrease sequence.
Joining Row: *With B, k2, sl next 6 sts to hold for underarm, with A, k26 (28, 30, 32, 36) sleeve sts, with B, k2,** with A, k34 (38, 42, 46, 48), rep from * to **, with A, k to end of rnd—128 (140, 152, 164, 176) sts: 34 (38, 42, 46, 48) back/front sts, 26 (28, 30, 32, 36) sleeve sts, 8 raglan sts.
Work 2 (4, 4, 4, 6) rounds in pattern.
Crossover Dec Rnd: [X2, k2tog, k to 2 sts before raglan column, ssk] 4 times—8 sts dec.
Work Crossover Dec Rnd EOR a total of 8 (8, 9, 10, 11) times—64 (76, 80, 84, 88) sts: 18 (22, 24, 26, 26) front/back sts, 10 (12, 12, 12, 14) sleeve sts, 8 raglan sts.
Next Rnd: Work in pat past second crossover column, k13 (15, 17, 19, 19) sts, sl last 8 (8, 10, 12, 12) sts to hold for front collar.
Sweater will now be worked back and forth.
Crossover Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, [k to 2 sts before Crossover Column, ssk, X2, k2tog] 4 times, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—10 sts dec.
Work Crossover Dec Row every RS row a total of 1 (2, 2, 2, 2) times—46 (48, 50, 52, 56) sts: 16 (18, 20, 22, 22) back sts, 3 front sts, 8 sleeve sts, 8 raglan sts.
Next Row (RS): K1, [ssk, X2, k2tog, k to 2 sts before Crossover Column] 3 times, ssk, X2, k2tog, k1—38 (40, 42, 44, 48) sts: 14 (16, 18, 20, 20) back sts, 2 front sts, 6 sleeve sts, 8 raglan sts.
Do not turn. Break yarn for A. Place front collar sts on spare DPN, ready to work.
With B, pick up and knit 3 (5, 5, 5, 5) sts along left front diagonal edge, knit across 8 (8, 10, 12, 12) front collar sts, pick up and knit 3 (5, 5, 5, 5) sts along right front diagonal edge, knit across 38 (40, 42, 44, 48) neckline sts—52 (58, 62, 66, 70) sts. Work I-cord bind-off (see page 28).
Graft underarms closed with Kitchener stitch (see page 28). Weave in all loose ends. Block.
This layering piece has a looser stitch than some of the other sweaters, making it breathable though it’s worked in a bulky weight yarn. Don’t be afraid of the zipper—kids adore them and it makes your knitting so wearable. If you are feeling intimidated, review the instructions for an easy no-sew zipper on page 30. Jake played around in a size 4 and enjoyed filling his pockets with treasures.
Standard Size: 4 (6, 8, 10, 12)
Finished Chest (zipped): 25.75 (27.75, 29.5, 32, 34.5)"/65.5 (70.5, 75, 81, 87.5) cm
13 sts and 19 rows in Slip Stitch Pattern on larger needles = 4"/10 cm square
Bulky weight #5 yarn [shown in Plucky Knitter Plucky Bulky; 100% merino; 135 yd./123 m per 4 oz./113 g skein; Dirty Martini (A) and Iced Audrey (B)]
• Color A: 450 (500, 600, 690, 780) yd./410 (460, 550, 630, 720) m
• Color B: 110 (115, 120, 130, 140) yd./100 (105, 110, 120, 130) m
• US 10.5 (6.5 mm) 36"/90 cm circular needle
• US 10.5 (6.5 mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• US 11 (8 mm) 36"/90 cm circular needle
• US 11 (8mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• Stitch markers
• 13.25 (14.5, 16.5, 18, 19)"/33.5 (37, 42, 46, 48) cm two-way separating zipper
• This sweater is worked from the bottom up with vertical set-in pockets and raglan-style seamless sleeves.
• The hood is worked directly from the neckline and closed with a three-needle bind-off.
Rnd 1: *K1, p1; rep from * around.
Repeat this round for pattern.
Note: Hold yarn in front while slipping stitches. Slip stitches purlwise. 2 sts are increased after each pattern repeat.
Rnd 1 and odd rnds: Knit.
Rnd 2: *K1, sl 1; rep from * around.
Rnd 4: *Sl 1, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 5: K1, M1L, k to end of rnd.
Rnd 6: *Sl 1, k1; rep from * to last st, sl 1.
Rnd 8: *K1, sl 1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 6.
Rnd 12: Rep Rnd 8.
Rnd 13: Rep Rnd 5.
Rnd 14–16: Rep Rnds 2–4.
Repeat these 16 rounds for pattern.
Row 1 (WS): *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
Row 2: *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
Repeat these 2 rows for pattern.
Note: Hold yarn in back while slipping stitches. Slip stitches purlwise.
Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2: P1, *p1, sl 1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: P1, *sl 1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Repeat these 4 rows for pattern.
With a larger DPN and B, CO 20 (20, 22, 22, 26) sts. With 2 DPNs, slip first stitch to one DPN and second stitch to second DPN. Continue so that alternating sts are on two DPNs. Place marker and join to work in the round. Knit in the round until piece measures 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 4)"/7.5 (7.5, 9, 9, 10) cm from CO edge. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing.
With smaller DPNs and B, CO 26 (28, 30, 30, 32) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Work in Rib for 8 rounds. Switch to larger needles and A. Knit 1 round.
Work Slip Stitch Patterned Increase a total of 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times—4 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts inc; 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts.
Continue working Rnds 1–4 only of Slip Stitch Pattern until sleeve measures 12.5 (13, 14, 15, 16)"/31.75 (33, 35.5, 38, 40.5) cm from CO edge, ending after a knit round.
Next Rnd: Work in pat to last 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) sts, sl next 4 (4, 6, 6, 6) sts to scrap yarn (removing marker) and place on hold for underarm, noting which round of pattern was just completed—26 (28, 28, 30, 32) sts.
Break yarn and slip remaining sts to hold.
With smaller circular needles and B, CO 75 (81, 87, 95, 103) sts. Work back and forth in Rib for 7 rows, ready to work a WS row. Switch to larger needles and A.
Work in Slip Stitch Pattern for 4 rows.
Note: Openings for pockets are created by working three sets of short rows. Because the gap is desired, there is no wrap and turn during the short-row shaping.
Next Row: K13 (13, 15, 15, 17).
Work back and forth in Slip Stitch Pattern (including 1-st selvedge) over these stitches only for 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 4)"/7.5 (7.5, 9, 9, 10) cm, ending after a RS row. Break yarn.
Attach yarn to next 49 (55, 57, 65, 69) sts and work back and forth in Slip Stitch Pattern (including 1-st selvedge) over these stitches to match length of first set of short rows, ending after a RS row. Break yarn.
Attach yarn to remaining 13 (13, 15, 15, 17) sts and work back and forth in Slip Stitch Pattern (including 1-st selvedge) over these stitches to match length of previous short rows, ending after a RS row. Do not break yarn.
Next Row (WS): Work in pat across the set of short rows just completed, join second and first sets of short rows as you come to them by working across them in pat. All three short rows should now be rejoined as the body and ready to be worked in full.
Work back and forth in Slip Stitch Pattern until body measures 9.5 (10.25, 11.75, 12.5, 13)"/24 (26, 30, 31.75, 33) cm, ending after the WS row of pattern that matches with the final round completed on each sleeve.
Note: After the joining row, each section is separated by a raglan faux seam. This single stitch is worked in stockinette while the Slip Stitch Pattern continues seamlessly around it. Because the decreases are mirrored, the stitch pattern does not need to be adjusted after each raglan decrease row. Continue working in Slip Stitch Pattern throughout decreases.
Joining Row: K15 (17, 17, 19, 21) sts, *pm, k1, sl next 4 (4, 6, 6, 6) sts to hold for underarm, pm, k26 (28, 28, 30, 32) sts from sleeve, pm, k1, pm,** k33 (35, 37, 41, 45) sts, rep from * to **, k to end of row—119 (129, 131, 143, 155) sts: 33 (35, 37, 41, 45) back sts, 26 (28, 28, 30, 32) sleeve sts, 15 (17, 17, 19, 21) front sts, 4 raglan sts.
Next Row: [Work in Slip Stitch Pattern to marker, sm, p1, sm] 4 times, work in pattern to end of row.
Raglan Dec Row (RS): [K to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, k1, sm, k2tog] 4 times, k to end of row—8 sts dec.
Continue working in Slip Stitch Pattern with stockinette faux seam and at the same time work Raglan Dec Row every RS row a total of 9 (10, 10, 11, 12) times—47 (49, 51, 55, 59) sts: 15 (15, 17, 19, 21) back sts, 8 sleeve sts, 6 (7, 7, 8, 9) front sts, 4 raglan sts.
Next Row (WS): BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) sts, work in pat with faux seam to end of row.
Next Row: BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 6) sts, [k to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, k1, sm, k2tog] 4 times, k to end of row—33 (33, 35, 37, 39) sts: 13 (13, 15, 17, 19) back sts, 6 sleeve sts, 2 front sts, 4 raglan sts.
Work Raglan Dec Row once more on next RS row—25 (25, 27, 29, 31) sts: 11 (11, 13, 15, 17) back sts, 4 sleeve sts, 1 front st, 4 raglan sts.
Work one WS row in pat, removing all markers.
Note: After the set-up row, a center stitch creates a new faux seam. This single stitch is worked in stockinette while the Slip Stitch Pattern continues seamlessly around it. Because the increases are mirrored, the stitch pattern does not need to be adjusted after each increase row. Continue working in Slip Stitch Pattern throughout work for hood.
Set-up Row: K12 (12, 13, 14, 15) sts, pm, k1, pm, k to end of row.
Next Row: Work in pat to marker, sm, p1, sm, work in pat to end of row.
Inc Row (RS): K to marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm, M1L, k to end of row—2 sts inc.
Work Inc Row every RS row a total of 11 times—47 (47, 49, 51, 53) sts.
Work back and forth in pat until hood measures 11 (11, 11.5, 11.5, 12)"/28 (28, 29, 29, 30.5) cm from back neck, ending after a RS row.
Flip hood inside out and fold in half. Work a three-needle bind-off (see page 30) to last st, BO last st.
With RS facing, smaller needles, and B, pick up and knit 4 sts for every 5 rows beginning at left front, continuing around entire hood and down right front, ending with an odd number of sts. Work back and forth in Rib for 3 rows. BO all sts.
With RS facing, smaller needles, and B, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13, 13, 15) sts on pocket opening on side closest to center front. Work back and forth in Rib for 3 rows. BO all sts, leaving a long tail for sewing. Use BO and CO tails to sew sides of ribbing to body of sweater. Attach pocket linings to the WS of sweater using tail from BO.
Attach zipper to sweater (see page 30). Graft underarms closed with Kitchener stitch (see page 28). Weave in all loose ends. Block.
This toasty warm sweater features a double-sided collar and a half-zip placket to keep the appropriate amount of warmth in and the cold out. The easy-to-memorize cable repeat adds a textural sophistication for a true modern “little man” look. Jesse is wearing the size 8.
Standard Size: 5 (8, 10, 12)
Finished Chest: 25 (27.75, 30.5, 33.5)"/63.5 (70.5, 77.5, 85) cm
23 sts and 28 rows in Cable Pattern on larger needles = 4"/10 cm square
700 (830, 975, 1100) yd./640 (760, 900, 1000) m worsted weight #4 yarn (shown in Anzula For Better or Worsted; 80% merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 200 yd./183 m per 4 oz./115 g skein; Toffee)
• US 7 (4.5 mm) 24"/60 cm circular needle
• US 7 (4.5 mm) set of 5 double-pointed needles
• Stitch markers
• 7.5"/19 cm zipper
• Cable work in this pattern is both written and charted; use whichever notation is more comfortable for you. The same chart is used when working in the round or back and forth; work even-numbered rows from left to right when working flat.
• This sweater is worked bottom-up, in the round, with raglan-style seamless sleeves.
• The collar is worked separately and grafted to the completed sweater.
Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back, k2, p2 from cable needle.
Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold to front, p2, k2 from cable needle.
Knit into second st on LH needle, do not slide off needle. Knit into the first st on LH needle, slide both sts off needle.
All odd rnds: *K2, p2; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: *X2, p2, k2, p2; rep from * around.
Rnd 4: *K2, p2, X2, p2; rep from * around.
Rnd 6: *X2, p2, k2, p2; rep from * around.
Rnd 8: *K2, p2, X2, p2; rep from * around.
Work one more round in Rib.
Rnd 1: *K1, p3, T4B, T4F, p3, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 2: *K1, p3, k2, p4, k2, p3, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 3: *K1, p1, T4B, p4, T4F, p1, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 4: *K1, p1, k2, p8, k2, p1, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 5: *K1, p1, T4F, p4, T4B, p1, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 6: *K1, p3, k2, p4, k2, p3, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 7: *K1, p3, T4F, T4B, p3, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 8: *K1, p5, k4, p5, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 9: *K1, p5, C4F, p5, k1; rep from * around.
Rnd 10: *K1, p5, k4, p5, k1; rep from * around.
Rep 10 rounds for pattern.
Row 1 (RS): *K1, p3, T4B, T4F, p3, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: *P1, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 3: *K1, p1, T4B, p4, T4F, p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 4: *P1, k1, p2, k8, p2, k1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 5: *K1, p1, T4F, p4, T4B, p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 6: *P1, k3, p2, k4, p2, k3, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 7: *K1, p3, T4F, T4B, p3, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 8: *P1, k5, p4, k5, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 9: *K1, p5, C4F, p5, k1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 10: *P1, k5, p4, k5, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Rep 10 rows for pattern.
With circular needles, CO 144 (160, 176, 192) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Work 9 rnds of Crossover Rib.
Next Rnd: Work in Diamond Cables.
Work in the round, repeating Diamond Cables until piece measures 9.75 (10.75, 11.75, 12)"/24.75 (27, 30, 30.5) cm, ending after an odd-numbered round.
With DPNs, CO 36 (40, 44, 48) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Work 9- round Crossover Rib as for hem.
Next Rnd: K2, pm, p8 (10, 12, 14), pm, work Diamond Cables once, pm, p8 (10, 12, 14), pm, k2.
Inc Rnd: K to marker, M1L, sm, p to marker, sm, work Diamond Cables once, sm, p to marker, sm, M1R, k to end of rnd—2 sts inc.
Work in pat as established, adjusting increased sts to knit sts on the following round (your knit panel will get wider).
Work Inc Rnd every 6 (7, 7, 8) rnds a total of 10 times—56 (60, 64, 68) sts.
Work even in pat until sleeve measures 12 (13, 14.5, 15.5)"/30.5 (33, 37, 39) cm from CO edge, ending one round prior to the last round of Diamond Cables worked on body.
Next Rnd: Work to last 3 (3, 4, 4) sts, sl next 6 (6, 8, 8) sts to hold for underarm—50 (54, 56, 60) sts.
Note: Continue working in Diamond Cables on body and sleeves as established. Round marker will be at center front. Allow cables to naturally disappear once the stitches become part of the raglan decreases. Decrease Rounds should line up with odd-numbered chart rounds.
Joining Rnd: Work 32 (36, 39, 43) sts, *pm, k1, pm, sl next 6 (6, 8, 8) sts to hold for underarm, work 50 (54, 56, 60) sts from sleeve, pm, k1, pm,** work 64 (72, 78, 86) back sts, rep from * to **, work to end of rnd—232 (256, 272, 296) sts: 64 (72, 78, 86) front/back sts, 50 (54, 56, 60) sleeve sts, 4 raglan sts.
Dec Rnd: [Work to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, k1, sm, k2tog] 4 times, work to end of rnd—8 sts dec.
Work Dec Rnd every other rnd a total of 8 (10, 11, 14) times—168 (176, 184, 184) sts: 48 (52, 56, 58) front/back sts, 34 (34, 34, 32) sleeve sts, 4 raglan sts.
Work one round.
Sweater will now be worked back and forth to form the placket.
Dec Row (RS): Sl 1, k1, [work to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, k1, sm, k2tog] 4 times, work to last 2 sts, k2—8 sts dec.
Next Row (WS): Sl 1, p1, work in pat to last 2 sts, p2.
Work Dec Row every RS row a total of 13 times—64 (72, 80, 80) sts: 22 (26, 30, 32) back sts, 11 (13, 15, 16) front sts, 8 (8, 8, 6) sleeve sts, 4 raglan sts.
Place sts on hold.
CO 64 (72, 80, 80) sts.
Row 1 (WS): P1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
Row 2: K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Repeat these last two rows until piece measures 3"/7.5 cm from CO edge, ending after a WS row.
Turning Ridge: Purl 1 RS row.
Resume Rib until piece measures 3"/7.5 cm from purled row, ending after a WS row.
Seaming Row: BO 3 sts. Fold the ribbed section in half along turning ridge so that purled row becomes bottom edge of piece. Join working sts to cast-on edge as follows: *with left needle, pick up the fourth st from the cast-on edge and knit tog with next working st; rep from * to last 3 sts. BO 3 sts. Break yarn and set aside.
Join collar to neckline sts using three-needle bind-off (see page 30) as follows: Hold collar and neckline together with RS facing each other. With WS facing, work threeneedle bind-off with collar and neckline sts.
Graft underarm sts with Kitchener stitch (see page 28). Insert zipper (see page 30). Weave in all loose ends. Block.
Cabling is my personal favorite technique. I love touching the fabric and watching the pattern emerge as it progresses. Cabling is paired with fingering weight yarn in this design. It’s light and squishy and won’t be too hot during transitional weather or light winters despite its Aran appearance. Jesse and Mattox (page 67) are both wearing the size 6. The wide wale rib on the back of the vest gives the knitter a break from cabling and also provides lots of stretch for growing.
Standard Size: 4 (6, 8, 10, 12)
Finished Chest: 25 (27.25, 28.75, 31, 33)"/63.5 (69, 73, 78.75, 84) cm
28 sts and 38 rows in Wide Wale Rib Pattern on larger needles = 4"/10 cm square
32 sts and 38 rows in Cable Pattern on larger needles = 4"/10 cm square
400 (500, 575, 630, 750) yd./365 (460, 525, 575, 685) m fingering weight #1 yarn (shown in Anzula Squishy; 80% merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 375 yd./343 m per 4 oz./115 g skein; Denim)
• US 2 (2.75 mm) 24"/60 cm circular needle
• US 3 (3.25 mm) 24"/60 cm circular needle
• Stitch markers
• This pattern is geared toward experienced knitters. To complete it, you should be comfortable working with multiple charts and doing work at the same time.
• The vest is worked from the bottom up, in the round, until the armholes, and is completed back and forth.
With smaller circular needles, CO 188 (204, 216, 232, 248) sts. Place marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Rib: P1 (1, 0, 0, 0), *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 (3, 0, 0, 0) sts, k2 (2, 0, 0, 0), p1 (1, 0, 0, 0).
Work in Rib for 1"/2.5 cm. Switch to larger needles.
During next round, begin chart work as noted beginning on Row 22 (2, 24, 16, 2) of Charts.
Next Rnd: P1 (1, 4, 4, 4), [K6, p2] 10 (11, 11, 12, 13) times, k6, p1 (1, 4, 4, 4), pm, p3 (5, 7, 9, 12), work Chart A, p1 (3, 4, 6, 7), work Chart B, p1 (3, 4, 6, 7), work Chart A, p3 (5, 7, 9, 12)— 88 (96, 102, 110, 118) back sts, 100 (108, 114, 122, 130) front sts.
Work in pat to end of charts, then work a total of 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) full chart repeats, then continue through Row 22 (20, 16, 10, 6) of charts, with wide wale rib at back and working charts across front. Piece should measure approximately 8.75 (10.75, 11.5, 11.75, 13)"/22 (27, 29, 30, 33) cm from CO edge. Place 88 (96, 102, 110, 118) sts for back on hold.
Note: The next section includes work to be done at the same time. Be sure to read through entire section before beginning.
Work back and forth over 100 (108, 114, 122, 130) sts in Cable and Wide Wale Rib patterns as established, ready to work Row 23 (21, 17, 11, 7).
BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts at beg of next 2 rows, working charts over remaining sts—86 (92, 96, 102, 108) sts. The two outside cables will disappear during the decreasing.
Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, work in pat to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec.
Work Dec Row every RS row a total of 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) times—80 (84, 86, 90, 94) sts.
Next Row: K2, p1, work 74 (78, 80, 84, 88) sts in pat, p1, k2.
Work even to end of chart repeat.
Next Row: K2, p1, work Chart C, p1 (3, 4, 6, 7), work Chart D, p1 (3, 4, 6, 7), work Chart E, p1, k2.
Work each of these Charts once with Rev St st background and selvedge sts as set-up in last row and at the same time, during last row, separate right and left front at center of Chart D by joining a second ball of yarn.
Row 1 (WS): P2, k to last 13 sts, p2, k4, p2, k2, p2tog, p1.
Row 2: K1, ssk, p1, T4F, p2, T4F, p to last 2 sts, k1.
Row 1 (WS): P1, p2tog, k2, p2, k4, p2, k to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 2: K1, p to last 14 sts, T4B, p2, T4B, p1, k2tog, k1.
Work Right Front and Left Front Neckline Shaping a total of 14 (13, 13, 13, 13) times. Work Row 1 once more—14 (16, 17, 19, 21) sts. Place sts on spare DPNs and set aside.
Place 88 (96, 102, 110, 118) sts for back on needle, ready to work RS back and forth.
Continue working sts as they appear throughout.
BO 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts at beg of next 2 rows—74 (80, 84, 90, 96) sts.
Dec Row (RS): K1, ssk, work in pat to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec.
Work Dec Row every RS row a total of 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) times—60 (64, 66, 70, 74) sts.
Work back and forth until back length matches front.
Flip piece inside out, holding RS together, three-needle BO 14 (16, 17, 19, 21) sts at shoulder together, BO 32 back neck sts in pat with Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy BO, three needle BO 14 (16, 17, 19, 21) sts at shoulder.
With smaller needles, pick up and knit 88 (92, 100, 108, 116) sts along each armhole.
Rib: *K2, p2; rep from * around.
Work in Rib for 6 rounds. BO all sts.
Use tails at center front to tighten up any holes that may have appeared during knitting. Weave in all loose ends. Block.
