Mushroom, Barley, and Sage Soup

Serves 8

The simple addition of dried porcini and fresh sage to a fairly conservative recipe for mushroom and barley soup pays big dividends, adding a dark, woodsy depth of flavor that just might make this the best one you’ve ever tasted. Most versions simply add mushrooms and barley to a chicken or beef broth, but here the porcini infuse the entire soup with potent mushroom flavor. And stirring a generous quantity of sage in just before serving adds an earthy aroma that will have people appreciating the soup before the first spoonful reaches their lips.

If you want to go to the trouble and expense of buying wild mushrooms, such as chanterelles or oyster mushrooms, and roasting them (see the note at the end of the recipe), that’s another way to add even more intense flavor.

 

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into small dice

1 medium Spanish onion, peeled and cut into small dice

1 stalk celery, cut into small dice

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1¹/₂ pounds white mushrooms, brushed clean, stems discarded, thinly sliced

2 quarts store-bought, reduced-sodium beef broth

³/₄ cup pearl barley

¹/₄ cup dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed and crumbled by hand

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves

Garlic Croutons, optional

 

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the carrot, onion, and celery, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Add the white mushrooms, season with salt and pepper, and cook until they begin to give off their liquid, 5 to 7 minutes.

2. Add the broth and barley to the pot and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Add the porcini and simmer, still covered, until the barley is softened, but still a bit al dente, about 25 minutes longer, checking periodically to be sure the soup is simmering very gently so as not to break up the other ingredients. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat before proceeding.

3. Stir in the sage. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Ladle into individual bowls and serve, garnishing with garlic croutons if desired.

VARIATIONS

Mushroom, Barley, and Short Rib Soup

If you have leftover Mushroom-Braised Short Ribs, remove the meat from the bones, cut the meat into small chunks, and toss it into the soup.

ROASTING MUSHROOMS

To roast wild mushrooms, preheat the oven to 350°F. For 1 pound mushrooms, pour ³/₄ cup olive oil into a small bowl. Add a smashed, peeled garlic clove and a few thyme sprigs; season with salt and pepper. Trim the stems and dip the mushrooms in the oil, letting any excess oil run off. Place the mushrooms on a rimmed baking sheet and roast in the oven until the mushrooms turn golden brown and begin to crisp around the edges, 15 to 18 minutes. If adding these mushrooms to a soup or stew (rather than serving them on their own), you can cool, cover, and refrigerate them for up to 24 hours. If using in the soup above, add them in Step 2 with the broth and barley.