Macaroni and Goat Cheese
Serves 8
Is it just me, or do people take macaroni and cheese for granted? I think the lack of appreciation began with those prepackaged macaroni kits in which low-grade pasta comes in one bag and an unidentifiable cheese goop or powder in another. This recipe is my attempt to illustrate a simple truth: If you approach macaroni and cheese with the same care that you do other pasta dishes, making a thoughtful decision about the pasta and the cheese, it is pretty special. Here, I recommend a small pasta such as tubetti or tubettini, though you might opt for the kitsch value of elbow macaroni. Use a fresh, creamy goat cheese that you know and love or, if you don’t have one, you will in all likelihood do just fine with an inexpensive vacuum-sealed one.
This recipe includes a béchamel—a creamy sauce of egg, butter, flour, cheese, and milk—which is used in a number of classic pasta recipes, especially lasagna. Usually it’s made with milk that’s been preheated in a separate pot, but I find that by allowing the milk to make contact with the bottom of the pot before whisking with the other ingredients, this is not necessary.
1 large egg yolk
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 pound fresh, creamy goat cheese, cut into small pieces
Coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds tubetti or tubettini pasta, cooked al dente
1/2 cup dried bread crumbs
1. Preheat the broiler. Break the egg into a small mixing bowl, set aside. Place an enamelware casserole in the oven to warm.
2. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour a little at a time, whisking it into the butter to incorporate thoroughly without making lumps. Slowly drizzle in the milk, letting it come briefly into contact with the bottom of the hot pot to warm it a bit before whisking it into the mixture. Add a few tablespoons of the hot mixture to the reserved egg yolk and whisk to combine, then pour the egg yolk mixture into the pot. Whisk in the Parmesan.
3. Add three-quarters of the goat cheese, 1 piece at a time, whisking it into the sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Add the pasta to the pot and stir to coat it with the sauce and warm it through.
4. Remove the casserole from the oven. Transfer the pasta mixture to the casserole. Dot the top with the remaining goat cheese, and then sprinkle with the bread crumbs. Broil until the crumbs are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Let thaw to room temperature and reheat under the broiler before serving.
5. To serve, present the casserole family style from the center of the table.
VARIATIONS
Macaroni with Goat Cheese and Roasted Mushrooms
Balance the tangy, creamy goat cheese with the earthy, slightly nutty flavor of roasted mushrooms: Roast some wild mushrooms, chop them, and add them to the pot along with the pasta in Step 3.
Macaroni with Vermont Cheddar
For a sharper flavor, closer to the macaroni you probably remember from childhood, replace the goat cheese with white Vermont cheddar cheese.
Two-Cheese Macaroni
For a gooey delight, eliminate the goat cheese and increase the Parmesan to 3 cups, using it all in Step 3. Omit the bread crumbs, and top the pasta with 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella before passing under the broiler. Finish with a sprinkling of chopped basil leaves just before serving.