Braised Beef Cheeks

Serves 4

Beef cheeks are just starting to find an audience here in the United States, but they’re one of the most flavorful parts of the cow. (And of other creatures for that matter. When you cook a whole fish, make sure you don’t leave the cheeks behind.) Like short ribs, they are richly gelatinous, full of natural flavor that permeates their cooking liquid when braised. Even after the fat has been removed from the resulting sauce, the flavor it leaves behind is unmistakable.

I can’t talk (or write) about beef cheeks without thinking about my friend and fellow chef-in-arms Mario Batali. We have nicknames for each other based on our favorite cuts of meat. He calls me Shanks. I call him Beef Cheeks. I’m glad to have written this book if for no other reason than to have a public forum for setting the record straight as to why I’ve been calling him that all these years.

Unless you have access to a truly world-class butcher, you will need to special-order beef cheeks in advance, but they’re worth the planning (see Mail-Order Sources. I don’t suggest replacing them with any alternatives because they’re really the reason for making this dish.

 

6 beef cheeks (6 to 8 ounces each)

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Garlic powder

¹/₄ cup plus 3 tablespoons olive oil

2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped

1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 large Spanish onion, peeled and coarsely chopped

¹/₂ cup tomato paste

5 sprigs thyme

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

3 anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry

1 whole head garlic, cut in half crosswise

2 cups red wine

2 cups dry white wine

¹/₃ cup distilled white vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

3 cups store-bought, reduced-sodium chicken broth, homemade Chicken Stock, or water

 

1. The day before cooking, season the beef cheeks with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

2. Preheat the oven to 325°F.

3. Heat ¹/₄ cup of the oil in a roasting pan over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the cheeks to the pan and brown on both sides, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the cheeks to a plate or platter and set aside.

4. Drain off and discard the fat from the pan. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil to the pan and set over medium-high heat. Add the celery, carrot, and onion and cook, stirring, until very soft but not browned, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, stirring to coat the vegetables. Add the thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, anchovies, and garlic. Cook, stirring, for another 3 minutes.

5. Add the red and white wines, vinegar, and sugar, and bring to a boil over high heat. Pour in the broth and return to a boil.

6. Return the beef cheeks to the pan, immersing them in the liquid. Cover the roasting pan with aluminum foil and braise in the oven for 1 hour. Remove the foil and braise for 3 more hours or until the meat is very tender. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat before proceeding.

7. To serve, remove the cheeks from the braising liquid and divide among 6 warm, shallow bowls. Strain the braising liquid, discarding the solids. Skim off and discard the fat from the liquid and pass the sauce separately at the table.

VARIATION

Beef Cheek Ravioli

Beef cheeks are rich and a little goes a long way. Accordingly, they make for an ideal ravioli filling. Coarsely chop the braised beef cheeks and mix with an equal volume of ricotta freshly grated Parmesan cheese, or a combination. Follow instructions to make and cook ravioli.