Veal Kidneys with Red Wine and Shallot

Serves 4

I’ll be honest. I wasn’t exactly in love with veal kidney when I first tasted it. But you know what? I wasn’t over the moon for caviar the first time I tasted it, either. Today, I love them both. So, if you like caviar, listen up while I try to sell you on one of my favorite indulgences.

The dense texture of veal kidney is unlike anything else I’ve ever eaten. I’m convinced that anyone who doesn’t like veal kidney has simply never had one properly cooked, which is to say gently cooked with a little blush remaining at the middle. (Most people cook them to death.) The strong flavor of these kidneys calls for a powerful sauce, like this one fashioned from red wine and mustard.

When shopping for veal kidneys, look for shiny, plump, deep red candidates, passing by any slightly browned or shriveled ones. You can also, and will probably have to, order these by mail (see Mail-Order Sources).

 

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 veal kidneys (12 ounces each)

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 large shallots, peeled and minced

¹/₄ cups light, sharp red wine, such as Chianti

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup store-bought, reduced-sodium beef broth

1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard

1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

 

1. Preheat the oven to 275°F.

2. In a wide, shallow sauté pan (which will allow the sauce to reduce as quickly as possible later on), warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Season the kidneys with salt and pepper. Add the kidneys to the pan and brown them very well on one side, 4 to 5 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of the butter to the skillet, flip the kidneys, and brown on the other side, about 4 minutes.

3. Transfer the kidneys to a rimmed baking sheet and place in the oven, leaving the door slightly ajar. You just want to keep them warm while you prepare the sauce.

4. Lower the heat under the sauté pan to medium and add the shallots. Cook until softened and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the red wine and sugar and stir to loosen any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Bring to a boil over high heat, and cook until reduced almost to a glaze.

5. Add the broth, bring to a boil, and cook until reduced by half. Whisk in the mustard, and then stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Season with salt and pepper, remove from the heat, and cover to keep warm.

6. To serve, slice and fan out half a kidney on each of 4 warm dinner plates and spoon some sauce over and around the slices. Sprinkle the parsley on top.