FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTHEAST ASIA
ONE OF THE EASIEST FOLIAGE PLANTS to grow, Chinese evergreen tolerates low light better than most other houseplants. It features glossy, often variegated leaves that bend outward in an elegant arch. Very small plants, such as those included in dish gardens, will grow in plain water, or in a container filled with clean pebbles or marbles, until you are ready to pot them up. Large aglaonemas can reach 36 in/90 cm in height, but they normally stay much smaller.
This plant has long had one weakness: a low tolerance for cold air. But newer cultivars are much less likely to be injured by low temperatures. Newer varieties also form thicker clumps, so mature plants stay bushy rather than growing upright. New growth of all aglaonemas emerges from the crown, so plants that grow too tall cannot be pruned back without killing them.
Chinese evergreen (Agalaonema commutatum)
Leaves develop gray, greasy splotches that turn yellow.
CAUSE: Cold injury.
REMEDY: Remove damaged leaves, and keep plant in a place where it will not be chilled by cold windows or blasts of cold from entryways. This plant needs temperatures above 60°F/16°C at all times.
Leaves are stiffly upright rather than arching; pale in color with paler leaf tips.
CAUSE: Too much light.
REMEDY: Move plants to a shadier location. Chinese evergreens are native to the jungle floor, so they need low light. Commercial growers grow them in 70 to 90 percent shade.
Plants appear weak despite watering; small disc-shaped creatures on stems and leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: This is the most serious insect pest of aglaonema. Dispose of badly infested plants. If infestation is light, isolate plant and follow control procedures given on page 273.
New leaves are yellow and small, deformed with kinked edges.
CAUSE: Copper deficiency.
REMEDY: Root temperatures below 65°F/18°C can limit the plants’ uptake of copper, or the soil may be deficient. Treat plant with a micronutrient spray (see page 262), keep in a warm place, and repot if appropriate to refresh the soil.
White cottony insects on stems or leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Isolate plant and follow control directions given on page 273.
FAMILY: ARAUCARIACEAE ORIGIN: NORFOLK ISLAND, EAST OF AUSTRALIA
THIS PLANT’S ELEGANT HORIZONTAL BRANCHES studded with soft needles have made Norfolk Island pine a favorite parlor plant for more than 100 years. However, it can be difficult to please in dry indoor rooms unless you are willing to mist it daily to increase humidity. And, because this plant needs abundant light, it’s also important to monitor it closely for problems with dry soil. Any type of stress, from dry soil to overfertilization, can cause the needles to drop. Once shed, they are never replaced.
That said, if you have a suitable place for Norfolk Island pine, such as a large south or west window or cool sun porch, it can become a beloved green companion. Turn the plant regularly to encourage even growth, and never trim it from the top or sides. Do remove low branches that die, which is normal with this plant. When grown indoors, plants usually stop growing at 5–6 ft/1.5–1.8 m tall. In its ancestral home, this species can reach 200 ft/60 m. If you move your Norfolk Island pine outdoors in summer, be sure to place it where it will get a half day of shade.
Norfolk Island pine (Araucaria heterophylla)
Light: High light, near a west or south window where the plant will get 1 to 2 hours of direct sun each day.
Temperature: Cool (55–75°F/13–24°C).
Fertilizer: From March to September, feed monthly with a balanced fertilizer. Spray twice yearly with a micronutrient spray.
Water: Water often enough to keep soil lightly moist at all times.
Soil: Any good potting soil, with additional gravel in the bottom of the pot to add weight and enhance drainage (see pages 259-60).
Repotting: Repot young plants yearly, increasing pot size by 1 in/2.5 cm inch, until plant is in a 12 in/30 cm pot. Repot large plants every 3 years. Handle gently, as the roots are scant and fragile.
Longevity: Many years.
Propagation: Seeds, though starting with a purchased plant saves several years of growing time.
Selections: Sold by species name.
Display tips: This plant needs a stable location and plenty of room. When well grown, it becomes a focal point in any light-filled room.
Branches droop downward.
CAUSE: Too little light.
REMEDY: Move plant to a brighter location.
Older leaves are yellow; needles fall from plants.
CAUSE: Overly wet roots often cause leaves to turn yellow before they are shed, but too little water or low humidity also can cause needles to drop. Overfertilization can make new needles at stem tips appear yellow and scorched.
REMEDY: Check the soil before watering, and water often enough to keep it constantly moist. Use a dilute fertilizer, and feed plants only when you are certain that they have not been stressed by overly dry soil. Mist plants daily to maintain high humidity.
New growth is pale and slow.
CAUSE: Too little fertilizer; micronutrient deficiency.
REMEDY: Increase frequency of feeding, and spray plant with a micronutrient spray as described on page 262.
Small round bumps on stems; needles pale and limp.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Isolate plant and treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil as described on page 275. If plant is outdoors, drench roots with a pesticide that contains imidacloprid.
White cottony creatures on leaves and stems.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and remove mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. See page 273 for other control measures.
Leaves pale; webby material between needles.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Severe infestations are very difficult to control. Isolate plant, and move it outdoors as soon as possible. Spray weekly with soap-oil spray as described on page 275.
FAMILY: CONVALLARIACEAE ORIGIN: CHINA
AN IDEAL FOLIAGE PLANT FOR LOW LIGHT, aspidistra is often grown as a groundcover in warm-climate shade gardens. Indoors, this plant will put up with much neglect, though it responds to good care by producing numerous 24 in/60 cm leaves, up to 4 in/10 cm wide, with a waxy coating that makes them naturally glossy. In Victorian times, aspidistra earned the name of barroom plant because of its ability to tolerate the dank and polluted air of taverns.
Green-leafed aspidistras tend to be the most vigorous selections, though there are varieties with leaves speckled with pale yellow, and a third group with irregular cream stripes down the leaves. The striped aspidistras are a bit unstable, as they often revert to green. To keep the green leaves from outcompeting the variegated ones, remove some of the green ones as they appear. Aspidistra produces small inconspicuous brownish flowers near the soil line, which are thought to be pollinated by snails.
Cast iron plant (Aspidistra eliator)
Leaves develop open cuts, or slits, between leaf veins.
CAUSE: Too much fertilizer.
REMEDY: Leach pots to remove excess fertilizer (see page 263). Do not feed plants again for a month, then resume feeding with a more dilute fertilizer. Wait until new leaves develop to gradually remove the ones that show slits. Even though they are imperfect, they continue to gather solar energy that benefits the plants.
Leaves turn yellow.
CAUSE: Possible overwatering.
REMEDY: It is normal for aspidistra to shed outer leaves from time to time, but yellowing of any but the oldest, outermost leaves indicates overwatering. Check drainage holes to make sure they are not plugged with debris, and water plant less, allowing soil to dry between waterings.
Leaf tips pale and yellow.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Check plants regularly for this pest, which tends to infest leaf tips first. Isolate plant, remove badly infested leaves, and clean thoroughly. See page 274 for more information on this pest. Do not use oil-based sprays on aspidistra, as oils penetrate the waxy coating on the leaves and cause slight mottling.
Pale dots on leaf surfaces; discshaped bumps on stems and leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Remove scale by hand using your fingernail or a toothpick. If tiny white larvae are present, spray with insecticidal soap. The same species of scale that infests ferns can feed on aspidistra, so if one type of plant becomes infested, be sure to check others kept nearby.
FAMILY: AGAVACEAE ORIGIN: MEXICO
LONG LIVED AND EASY TO PLEASE, beaucarnea makes a wonderful long-term green companion. Often called ponytail palm because of the way its narrow, 36 in/90 cm-long leaves spew from a central topknot like a ponytail, beaucarnea is not a palm at all. Rather, its true nature as a semi-succulent is revealed by the bulbous shape of its lower trunk, which serves as a water reservoir. A slow grower, beaucarnea may take 2 decades to reach its mature indoor height of about 8 ft/2.4 m. Plants more than 4 ft/1.2 m tall become extremely heavy, making them difficult to move. If you keep a large beaucarnea, it will need to be equipped with a wheeled platform.
The only challenge to growing beaucarnea is learning its water needs. Overwatering in winter is a common mistake, so be careful. Beaucarnea leaves tend to collect dust, so a thorough midwinter cleaning of the leaves with a pump spray bottle of water and a soft cloth, followed by moderate soaking of the soil, may be the only attention this plant requires from November to March.
Ponytail palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
Light: Bright. Can adapt to lower light in winter provided it receives plenty of light from spring through fall.
Temperature: Average room temperatures (65–75°F/18–24°C) year-round.
Fertilizer: In spring and summer, feed monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. In fall and winter, do not feed.
Water: From spring through fall, allow soil to dry to within 2 in/5 cm of the surface between waterings. In winter, water only occasionally. Plant likes low humidity.
Soil: A fast-draining soil, such as cactus potting soil.
Repotting: Every other year, or when the base of the trunk expands to within 2 in/5 cm of the edge of the pot.
Longevity: To 30 years or more when grown indoors.
Propagation: Seeds; potting up offsets that occasionally appear near the base of the plant. To propagate an old plant, the only option is to cut off its head, which may force out two or three buds a few inches below the cut; these buds can then be cut away and rooted. The operation, best undertaken in summer, requires a bit of luck.
Selections: Sold by species name, upon which plant taxonomists do not agree. Long accepted as Beaucarnea, details of this plant’s flower structure (blooms never appear on indoor-grown plants) have led some experts to reclassify it as Nolina (family Liliaceae).
Display tips: This plant is almost always grown as a solitary table or floor specimen. It is a fine companion for smaller flowering houseplants.
Leaf tips turn brown.
CAUSE: Overwatering; underwatering.
REMEDY: Plants kept outdoors on shady balconies and patios, or those grown in a bright sunroom, are not as likely to show this symptom as are indoor-grown plants, which almost always show a few brown leaf tips. The low metabolic rate that results when plants are kept in low light, with little moisture moving through their systems, often causes modest browning of leaf tips on otherwise healthy plants. Snip them off with sharp scissors (see page 257). Avoid overwatering. When in doubt, do not water, but also do not allow plant to dry out completely. Should the soil become extremely dry, rehydrate it gradually rather than all at once.
Base of plant shows dark, shriveled areas.
CAUSE: Stem rot; bacterial soft rot.
REMEDY: Whether caused by fungi or bacteria, the rotting of the base of a beaucarnea usually leads to the plant’s demise. Overwatering contributes to the problem. It is possible that by withholding water, a plant with a small amount of stem rot will seal off the injury internally and continue to grow. However, a badly affected plant should be discarded.
Leaves appear pale, with pinprick dots and webby material of leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and wipe leaf undersides with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water. Repeat after 5 to 7 days. See page 274 for more information about this pest. Periodic cleaning of beaucarnea leaves is the best way to prevent mite infestation.
FAMILY: MARANTACEAE ORIGIN: BRAZIL AND CENTRAL AMERICA
IF YOU HAVE A PLANT THAT SEEMS like a prayer plant (Maranta) but is not a prayer plant, it is probably this prayer plant cousin. Several Calathea species are valued as houseplants, though all demand high humidity levels in order to flourish. Small specimens often are included in dish gardens, where their feathery, parallel leaf stripes on velvet-textured leaves have an enchanting effect. Some calatheas have narrow, lance-shaped leaves to 16 in/ 40 cm long, while others feature oval leaves, 9 in/22.5 cm long and 6 in/15 cm wide. New leaves are curled as they emerge, and most selections have distinct reddish color on leaf undersides. Mature plant size is usually less than 18 in/45 cm high and wide.
In winter, use every practical method for keeping humidity above 60 percent for your calathea (see page 266). In summer, you can set the plant outdoors in a shady spot provided temperatures stay above 65°F/18°C and below 90°F/32°C. Check leaves often for pests, particularly when bringing plants indoors that have been outside. Calatheas love regular warm showers, indoors or out.
Peacock plant (Calathea hybrid)
Light: Bright indirect light, but no direct sun.
Temperature: Average to warm room temperatures (70–85°F/21–29°C).
Fertilizer: From spring through summer, feed with a high-nitrogen foliage plant fertilizer every 3 weeks. In fall and winter, feed monthly.
Water: Keep soil lightly moist at all times, and maintain high humidity. Use distilled water or rainwater, as calathea is sensitive to fluoride and salts.
Soil: Fast-draining potting soil that contains peat and perlite.
Repotting: Repot annually in spring to refresh soil and provide a clean container.
Longevity: 5 to 8 years, or longer when propagated by division.
Propagation: Calathea is not easy to divide, so wait until the plant is quite large to attempt it, and expect the plant to be set back by the operation. You can also try rooting stem cuttings under very warm, moist conditions (see pages 299-302). Most calatheas are grown from tissue culture.
Selections: There are numerous named varieties, of which ‘Corona’, with broad, pale green leaves with dark margins, is quite popular. Lance-leafed calatheas, such as C. rufibarba, are not as showy, but tend to be easier to grow.
Display tips: Group calatheas with other plants that need humid conditions, such as ferns, orchids, and bromeliads. A single well-grown calathea makes a beautiful specimen plant for any room.
Leaf tips and edges turn brown.
CAUSE: Low humidity; excessive fertilizer; hard water; fluoride in water.
REMEDY: Plants often develop a few burned leaf tips as they acclimate themselves to a new home. Keep humidity high, and leach pots periodically to prevent root damage from salts from fertilizer or water (see page 263).
New leaves are lighter green than older ones.
CAUSE: Insufficient nitrogen or iron.
REMEDY: Increase frequency of feeding. Check fertilizer label to make sure it includes iron. If not, and increased feeding does not solve the problem within a few weeks, treat plant with an iron spray (available at garden centers).
Leaves yellow and speckled with sticky undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Calathea is easy prey to mites if high humidity is not maintained. It is important to detect this problem very early, at which time you can try a systemic pesticide (see page 272). If faint webbing is present on leaf undersides, the infestation is very advanced and the plant should be discarded. Never use any type of oil spray on calathea, as serious leaf burn can result.
Cottony creatures on stems and leaves.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Isolate plant and remove mealybugs by hand, using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat after 3 days, and continue to monitor plant for a month. Never use any type of oil spray on calathea, as serious leaf burn can result.
FAMILY: ANTHERICAEA ORIGIN: TROPICAL AFRICA AND SOUTH PACIFIC
POPULAR AND EASY TO GROW, spider plant is an excellent house-plant for beginners. Its strap-shaped leaves, which grow to 15 in/37.5 cm long, arch outward from a central crown. Spider plant also does an admirable job of cleaning the air of airborne pollutants, though its roots are sensitive to tainted water. The brown leaf tips often seen on this plant sometimes are the result of fluoride and other minor contaminants present in many public water supplies.
Spider plant is phenomenally prolific. When less than a year old, plants eagerly produce small, white flowers on the tips of upright stems, which gradually arch outward and develop plantlets on their ends. Sometimes the plantlets themselves produce plantlets. However, when a spider plant is kept in a room where lights are used at night, the urge to flower is likely to be weak. If you want your spider plant to propagate itself, either place it outdoors in the fall so it can respond to days that are becoming shorter, or move it to a room that is not used at night, for 3 weeks in fall or winter, when days are naturally short.
Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
Leaf tips turn brown.
CAUSE: Tainted water; overfertilization.
REMEDY: Snip off brown tips with sharp scissors (see page 257). Leach soil using rainwater or distilled water (see page 263). Use rainwater or distilled water to water this plant. Dilute liquid fertilizer to half strength or less.
Plant does not bloom or produce plantlets.
CAUSE: Too-large pot; too much light at night; too much fertilizer.
REMEDY: Keeping plants slightly rootbound increases flowering. Plants bloom and produce offspring in response to short nights. In fall or winter, keep plant in a room where no supplemental lights are used at night for 3 weeks. After 3 weeks, it can be brought back into living areas used at night. Overfertilization also can cause plants to produce lush leaves but no offspring.
Brown discs on leaves.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Use your fingernail to remove the scale. Repeat every few days. Isolate plant until problem is controlled.
Plantlets die when transplanted to pots.
CAUSE: Plantlets too old.
REMEDY: Plantlets root best when they are small to medium sized. Older plantlets often develop dry calluses over their roots, so they root very slowly. Plantlets also may fail when suddenly severed from the parent plant. For best results, secure young plantlets in pots for 2 weeks before detaching them from the parent plant.
FAMILY: VITIDACEAE ORIGIN: AUSTRALIA, SOUTH AMERICA
EASY TO GROW IN MOST HOMES and offices, evergreen vines of the Cissus genus come equipped with curling tendrils that easily cling to a stake, post, or any shape of trellis. Plant size varies with selection, but most can be kept to less than 24 in/60 cm tall with regular spring pruning. Grape ivy (C. rhombifolia) is the most durable species, with hairy brown branches and fuzzy new leaves, which become glossy as they mature. It adapts well to low light, and has a more refined texture than the once-popular kangaroo vine (C. antarctica). Begonia cissus (C. discolor) has showy variegated leaves that resemble those of fancy-leafed begonia. However, it is a slow-growing plant that requires constant warmth and high humidity, making it challenging to grow.
Grape ivy (Cissus rhombifolia)
Leaf tips turn brown.
CAUSE: Soil and air too dry.
REMEDY: Increase frequency of watering, but avoid overwatering plant. Mist every day to increase humidity. In spring, prune off branches that hold damaged leaves.
Leaves shrivel and fall.
CAUSE: Soil too wet or too dry.
REMEDY: Water as often as needed to keep soil moist, which can be every 2 to 3 days in warm summer weather. Plant needs less water in winter, when little new growth is produced.
Powdery white patches on older leaves.
CAUSE: Powdery mildew.
REMEDY: Prune off affected leaves or branches. Increase air circulation around the plant. This problem is easy to prevent by pruning off older branches in spring, which stimulates the production of healthy new foliage. Older leaves are most likely to show symptoms of this disease.
Small wedge-shaped insects on new leaves and stem tips.
CAUSE: Aphids.
REMEDY: Rinse off aphids with a fine spray of water, and repeat daily until they are gone. See page 269 for more information on this pest. Always test a pesticide on a sample leaf before using it on cissus, which is sensitive to pesticides, oils, and some soap sprays.
Leaves are pale and stippled with yellow, with faint webbing on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant. Prune off badly infested leaves and branches. Use a soft cloth dipped in warm water to carefully clean the undersides of remaining leaves. Shift plant to a shady spot and mist often. See page 274 for more information on this pest. Always test a pesticide on a sample leaf before using it on cissus, which is sensitive to pesticides, oils, and some soap sprays.
TECHNICOLOR CROTONS HAVE BEEN GROWN outdoors in Florida and southern California for many years, but as houseplants they proved difficult to satisfy. Then crotons went to Europe, where greenhouse growers gave them a makeover, selecting varieties that are much better adapted to low light. Today crotons are one of the most widely sold foliage plants, and because they are easily propagated in greenhouses, they are quite affordable as well.
Bold leaf colors that include yellow, orange, and yellow-and-green combinations are the hallmarks of crotons. Leaf color is most vivid when plants get plenty of light. Crotons also have a high transpiration rate, so they need frequent watering. Should you purchase a pot that contains more than one plant (which is not uncommon), plan to keep it as a cluster for a year. The second year, in early summer, separate the plants by cutting through the roots with a serrated knife, repot them, and keep them outdoors where they can bask in warm dappled shade for several weeks. Anytime a croton becomes tall and lanky, you can cut off the top and root it like a stem tip cutting.
Croton (Codiaeum variegatum pictum)
New leaves are small and green; lack color.
CAUSE: Too little light; too little fertilizer.
REMEDY: Move plant to a brighter location and increase frequency of fertilization.
Leaf tips turn brown.
CAUSE: Too much water.
REMEDY: Water lightly yet frequently, and do not allow plants to sit in saucers of standing water.
Older leaves drop off.
CAUSE: This is normal, but plants also may shed leaves if they are too cool, too wet, or too dry.
REMEDY: No action needed if plants otherwise appear healthy and show new growth in spring and summer.
Plant is bare at the base; lacks lateral stems.
CAUSE: This growth pattern often develops with indoor crotons.
REMEDY: Prune off the top in late spring and root the cutting. Meanwhile, the parent plant should produce lateral stems provided it is given plenty of light and warm temperatures.
White cottony masses on stems or leaf veins.
CAUSE: Mealybugs, which are common on crotons.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and follow control measures described on page 273.
Leaves pale and limp; faint silky webbing on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites, which infest crotons that are stressed by dryness, particularly dry air.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and follow control measures described on page 274. Increase humidity by misting plant often, and by keeping the plant on a tray of damp pebbles.
Dark discs on stems and leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Follow control measures described on page 273. Inspect new plants closely for scale. If the infestation is severe, move plant outdoors for treatment if possible. If the problem arises in winter, consider disposing of the plant.
FAMILY: LILIACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTHEAST ASIA AND PACIFIC ISLANDS, INCLUDING HAWAII
ON SOME PACIFIC ISLANDS, it is thought that growing a ti plant near an entryway brings good luck. It certainly brings a tropical touch, along with plenty of color. There are all-green ti plants, but more colorful varieties with red, orange, and pink streaks in the leaves are preferred houseplants. Plenty of light is needed to maintain good color. In low light, variegation patterns become much less pronounced. Ti plant also needs above-average humidity, especially in summer.
Ti is a slender plant comprised of long, strap-shaped leaves that emerge from a narrow stalk. Young plants are much fuller than mature specimens, which become leaner as they grow to 5 ft/1.5 m tall indoors. As they gain height, they naturally shed their lowest leaves. The stalk becomes a sturdy trunk topped with a cluster of colorful leaves. If a midsized ti is cut down, new branches often sprout from near the base. And, in addition to rooting the leafy tip like any other tip cutting, new plants can be grown from 2 in/5 cm pieces of the stalk, barely buried on their sides in warm, moist potting soil.
Ti plant (Cordyline terminalis)
Light: Bright, including up to 4 hours of sun daily.
Temperature: Warm (60–85°F/16–29°C).
Fertilizer: In spring and summer, feed plants every 2 weeks with a balanced houseplant food that includes micronutrients. In fall and winter, feed monthly.
Water: Moderate even moisture, so that roots stay lightly moist at all times. Mist plant every day or so to increase humidity. This plant can suffer badly in extremely dry air.
Soil: Any good potting soil that drains well.
Repotting: Every 2 years in spring. Even tall plants are often happy in smallish pots.
Longevity: 10 years or more.
Propagation: Every few years, root a tip cutting as described on page 299. Ti also may be air layered.
Selections: Many named varieties are available that show different leaf patterns. One of the most popular ones, ‘Tricolor’, features red, pink, and cream streaks in dark green leaves.
Display tips: Use treelike older plants as floor plants. Even young plants have tall, linear lines that work well when displayed near blue bloomers that need abundant light, such as streptocarpus and exacum.
Color in leaves changes to all green.
CAUSE: Too little light.
REMEDY: Intense light for at least half of the day is needed to maintain good leaf color in a variegated ti plant. Grow near a south or west window, in a bright room with light-colored walls that reflect light.
Leaf margins and tips turn brown.
CAUSE: Insufficient humidity or fluoride in water.
REMEDY: Remove badly affected leaves. Begin misting plant daily, but not when the sun is shining brightly. Place a few pinches of garden lime or wood ashes in the pot to raise the pH, which helps with the fluoride problem. If you know your water supply is fluoridated, switch to distilled water for this plant.
Yellowing of leaves, especially near edges of older leaves.
CAUSE: Magnesium deficiency.
REMEDY: Switch to a plant food that contains this micronutrient. If plant has not been repotted for more than a year, replant in fresh soil. Add a pinch of Epsom salts to water two to three times a year.
Leaves parched; webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, clean leaves by hand using a sponge dipped in warm, slightly soapy water. See page 274 for more control measures for this pest. Regular misting of leaves helps prevent problems with spider mites.
Small brown bumps on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Remove scale with a toothpick or fingernail if possible. Spray plant with insecticidal soap to control newly hatched scale. Keep plant in subdued light for 2 days following application of insecticidal soap.
FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICAN RAIN FORESTS
THIS POPULAR FOLIAGE PLANT is often called dumb cane because the plant’s sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that are potent irritants of human and animal mucous membranes, and chewing the leaves causes the tongue and throat to swell, making speech impossible (and suffocation a possibility). The sap is poisonous to cats, too, so they should not be allowed to play with the leaves.
As for the “cane” part of the name, older dieffenbachias typically grew quite tall until they became tufts of leaves atop a canelike stalk. Some still do, though modern hybrids are more compact and bushy than were their forebears. Many grow to only 12 in/30 cm tall. Numerous hybrids are available that feature different variegation patterns in the leaves, and you may occasionally find all-green dieffenbachias as well. When breeders evaluate new dieffenbachias, they look for a low incidence of leaf burn due to fluctuations in fertilizer and light levels — the most common problem with dieffies.
Dumb cane (Dieffenbachia hybrid)
Drooping leaves.
CAUSE: Too little water.
REMEDY: Water plants lightly yet frequently so that the soil never dries out completely.
Brown tips on leaves.
CAUSE: Uneven watering.
REMEDY: Provide water frequently, but never force the roots to sit in water. Learn to judge moisture level in container by tipping it to assess its weight as well as by checking for moisture in the top inch of soil.
Leaves droop and fall without yellowing first.
CAUSE: Plant is being chilled.
REMEDY: Move plant to a warmer place where temperatures will stay above 60°F/16°C.
New growth is lopsided or uneven.
CAUSE: Plant is stretching toward light.
REMEDY: Turn the plant a quarter turn every 3 days. If plant still appears lanky, increase light level by moving it to a brighter spot.
Little or no new growth.
CAUSE: Insufficient light or not enough fertilizer.
REMEDY: Provide supplemental light or move to a brighter location; feed plant every 2 weeks with a high-nitrogen foliage plant food.
Leaf edges turn brown and curl.
CAUSE: Too much fertilizer.
REMEDY: Flush soil with clean water to wash away any accumulated fertilizer and salts. After 2 weeks, resume feeding with a dilute solution of water-soluble houseplant food.
Lowest leaves turn yellow and drop.
CAUSE: This is the normal growth pattern of this plant.
REMEDY: Snip off failing leaves during regular grooming.
White, cottony masses on stems and leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Clean off with swabs dipped in alcohol. Repeat every 3 days until the mealybugs are gone.
Leaves appear pale and bleached, with webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant and treat the problem immediately. See page 274 for detailed information about this pest.
FAMILY: ARALIACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTH PACIFIC
CLOSELY RELATED TO SCHEFFLERA, this plant is also called spider aralia or threadleaf aralia, because of its narrow, dark green leaves with sawtoothed edges. And, although the leaves resemble those of marijuana, the two plants are not related. New aralia leaves emerge copper colored, and darken to blackish green as they are exposed to light. In the wild, false aralia grows into a 20 ft/6 m-tall tree, but when grown indoors plants slowly grow to 5–6 ft/1.5–1.8 m, with a lean, upright form.
This plant likes to stay put, and may shed leaves when moved from one location to another. Despite its height, false aralia flourishes in a rather small pot, and its bushiness depends in large part on the quality of light it receives. Warm temperatures and moderate to high humidity are important to avoid problems with leaf drop and spider mites. Regular misting also helps to keep the leaves clean.
False aralia (Dizygotheca elegantissima)
Light: Moderate to bright indirect light.
Temperature: Warm room temperatures (65–85°F/18–29°C). Plants are damaged by chilling below 60°F/16°C.
Fertilizer: From spring through summer, feed every 2 weeks with a balanced liquid plant food. In fall and winter, feed monthly.
Water: Drench plants and then allow soil to dry to at least 1 in/2.5 cm below the surface before watering again. Avoid over-watering, but never allow the soil to become completely dry.
Soil: Any good potting soil.
Repotting: Repot annually in spring, but keep plant in a smallish pot. As plant gains height, use a heavy ceramic or clay pot to help avoid toppling.
Longevity: 10 years or more.
Propagation: Commercial growers often start this plant from seed, but the best propagation methods to use at home are rooting stem tip cuttings or air layering. Use rooting powder with either method (see page 299) and be patient. Warm temperatures and high humidity are important to successful propagation.
Selections: This plant is usually sold by common or species name. Small plants may be included in dish gardens.
Display tips: The dark green leaf color and upright, linear posture of this plant work well when grouped with foliage plants with lighter green leaves, such as variegated dracaena or Chinese evergreen.
Leaves become dry and drop off.
CAUSE: Dry air; underwatering.
REMEDY: Increase humidity by misting every morning or keeping plant in a room with a humidifier. Water more often, so that the soil in the pot never dries out completely.
Healthy leaves drop off.
CAUSE: Change in environment.
REMEDY: This plant often sheds leaves when moved to a new place. To minimize trauma, protect plant from chilling and avoid moving it in winter, when recovery from change is likely to be slow.
Leaf edges turn brown.
CAUSE: Excessive exposure to sun.
REMEDY: Aralia can take abundant light, but direct sunshine causes stress, in part due to root restriction in small pots. If plant is moved outdoors in summer, keep it in a shady spot.
New leaves are very small.
CAUSE: This is aralia’s normal growth pattern, but plant may need more frequent feeding if leaves fail to gain size as they mature.
REMEDY: This plant produces two types of leaves. Juvenile leaves, produced by young plants or branches near the base of older ones, are small and narrow compared to mature leaves. If new leaves at the tops of older plants are quite small, increase frequency of feeding.
Leaf undersides sticky; leaves pale and stippled.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and wipe leaf undersides with a soft cloth dipped in a solution of insecticidal soap. Mist plant twice daily for a week. If the infestation is severe, discard plant, as it will never fully recover.
Small, cottony masses on stems, especially near base of leaflets.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Isolate plant. Thoroughly clean plant by hand, using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat after 5 days. See page 273 for other ways to control persistent problems with this pest.
FAMILY: AGAVACEAE ORIGIN: TROPICAL AFRICA AND MADAGASCAR
SEVERAL SPECIES OF DRACAENA MAKE excellent, easy-to-grow houseplants, and they are especially useful where you want a strongly upright form. Most dracaenas have long, strappy leaves variegated with white or red. The familiar corn plant, D. fragrans ‘Massangeana’, grows to 6 ft/1.8 m tall, as do some selections of D. deremensis such as ‘Janet Craig’ and ‘Warneckei’. However, controlling the height of a dracaena is as simple as lopping off its head. Even the red-margined rainbow plant (D. marginata ‘Tricolor’) can be handled this way. Within weeks after the old topgrowth is removed, a pair of new shoots will appear to take its place. Dust tends to accumulate on dracaena leaves, which can be rinsed off with water or gently wiped away with a soft cloth.
Rainbow plant (Dracaena marginata ‘Tricolor’)
Brown spots on leaves.
CAUSE: Sun scorch.
REMEDY: Place where plant will not receive direct sun, especially midday or early-afternoon sun.
Leaves droop and turn yellow.
CAUSE: Root rot from over-watering.
REMEDY: Check the bottom of the pot to make sure the drainage holes are clear. Allow soil to dry slightly between waterings, and never allow the base of the plant to sit in standing water.
Leaves pale, with faded variegation patterns.
CAUSE: Too little light or not enough fertilizer.
REMEDY: Move plant to a brighter location, and increase frequency of fertilization. In some situations, such as warm, well-lit offices, plants need to be fed every 2 weeks year-round.
Lowest leaves fall off.
CAUSE: Sudden environmental change, or too cold.
REMEDY: It is not unusual for newly purchased plants to shed a few leaves after the trauma of being moved to a new place. Be patient. If leaves continue to fall after 2 months of attentive care, consider repotting the plant.
Leaves pale, turning yellow, with webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant and place it in a low-light situation where it can be sprayed with insecticidal soap and then misted with water twice daily. If the infestation is severe, it is usually best to cut off the top of the plant, dispose of it, and propagate new plants from the old cane.
Brown discs on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Remove by hand, using your fingernail or a toothpick. Recheck plant weekly. Cleaning leaves with a soft cloth twice a year usually prevents problems with scale.
FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: SOLOMON ISLANDS
POTHOS HAS A WELL-DESERVED REPUTATION as the easiest house-plant to grow. Long, vining stems trail over the sides of the pot, often reaching 8 ft/2.4 m or more unless they are trimmed back. The glossy, heart-shaped leaves unfurl constantly, usually emerging green and becoming more variegated as they age. Bright light increases the growth rate of this vigorous plant. Once or twice a year, prune pothos to keep it bushy and full. Clip back some vines to within 2 in/5 cm of the soil, and shorten others by cutting them off at any point. Overwatering is the only serious mistake you might make with this forgiving plant, because pothos cannot stand waterlogged soil. Be especially careful with freshly repotted plants, which appreciate somewhat dry conditions as they recover from the change.
Vigorous, fast-growing pothos plants are ideal low-maintenance plants for offices or new houses, where formaldehyde from carpet, plywood, or other materials may be a contaminant. Cats who play with the dangling vines quickly learn to avoid pothos, because the poisonous (but nonlethal) sap causes a burning sensation in the mouth.
Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
Leaves are mostly green and lose variegation.
CAUSE: Too little light; weakly variegated variety.
REMEDY: Move plant to a brighter location. Also be patient, as new leaves often emerge green and develop variegation as they age.
Leaves turn yellow and fall.
CAUSE: Too much water; transplant trauma.
REMEDY: A few weeks after repotting, pothos plants often shed a few leaves. Continued yellowing of leaves is usually due to too much water or inadequate pruning. Stems allowed to grow more than 4 ft/1.2 m long often shed most of their leaves. Check drainage holes to make sure they are free of debris, and water plant less frequently.
Brown spots on leaves surrounded by yellow halos.
CAUSE: Bacterial leaf spot.
REMEDY: Clip off affected leaves, or entire branches that hold many spotted leaves. Keep leaves dry when watering the plant.
Yellow or wilted leaves; soft mushy stems.
CAUSE: Root rot, caused by several types of soil-borne fungi.
REMEDY: Propagate a few stem tip cuttings if possible, then dispose of the plant and soil. Thoroughly clean container before using it to grow another houseplant.
White, cottony masses on stems or leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: This pest only occasionally infests pothos, which is normally a remarkably pest-free plant. Remove mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. If necessary, repeat after 1 week.
FAMILY: ARALIACEAE ORIGIN: HYBRID DEVELOPED IN FRANCE IN 1910
IN NATURE, IT IS QUITE UNUSUAL for plants of different genera to cross, which is exactly what happened with this plant. One parent, Fatsia japonica, is a broad shrub occasionally grown as a houseplant, but more often planted outdoors in mild winter climates. Fatshedera’s other parent is a strain of familiar English ivy. The result is a lanky semi-climber that lacks rootlets, so it must be tied to its support. Some people train fatshedera to wander up a window frame, in which case stems can reach 8 ft/2.4 m in length. Or, you can prune back the top of the plant yearly to keep it as a leafy, 24–36 in/60–90 cm-tall shrub. To create a very lush plant, grow two or three fatshederas together in the same container.
Tree ivy (× Fatshedera lizei)
Fatshedera’s beautiful five-lobed leaves, which are often 8 in/20 cm across, make this a very dramatic foliage plant. Floral designers often polish the leaves and use them in cut-flower arrangements.
Light: In spring and summer, bright, filtered light. In fall and winter, more moderate natural light or fluorescent light.
Temperature: In spring and summer, average room temperatures (65–75°F/18–24°C). In fall and winter, cool to average (55–70°F/13–21°C).
Fertilizer: From spring through fall, feed every 2 weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. In winter, feed monthly.
Water: From spring through fall, keep soil lightly moist, allowing it to dry to within .5 in/1.25 cm of surface. In winter, water slightly less, but mist daily to discourage spider mites.
Soil: Any good potting soil.
Repotting: Annually in spring. Three plants can be grown together in a 10 in/25 cm pot and tied to a central upright post. Keep newly repotted plants in cool shade for a week to minimize post-repotting collapse, which is common with fatshedera.
Longevity: About 10 years; indefinitely when propagated from rooted stem tip cuttings.
Propagation: Root stem tip cuttings as described on page 299. Use rooting powder, and enclose cuttings in a plastic bag to maintain high humidity.
Selections: A common variegated form has showy cream-to-yellow splotches in the centers of the leaves. It goes by various names, including ‘Aureamaculata’ and ‘Annemeike’. However, green-leafed varieties are often easier to grow.
Display tips: Tie primary stems to a pillar, and use fatshedera as a floor plant or room divider in a place with plenty of filtered and reflected light.
Leaves turn yellow and drop.
CAUSE: Poor drainage; overwatering; transplanting trauma.
REMEDY: Check drainage holes to make sure they are not blocked by debris. Water less, allowing soil to dry slightly between waterings. This plant often sulks for a few weeks after repotting.
Variegated leaves gradually become all green.
CAUSE: Not enough light.
REMEDY: Variegated varieties need a little more light and warmth than fatshederas with all-green leaves. Move plant to a brighter location, or consider shifting it outdoors for a few weeks in summer.
Leaves appear pale and parched, with faint webbing on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: See page 276 for ways to clearly identify this pest. If spider mites are present, isolate plant and prune off badly infested leaves or branches. Clean remaining leaves by hand, wiping leaf undersides with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water. In spring, prune plant aggressively to force out healthy new growth.
New growth distorted; small wedge-shaped insects present.
CAUSE: Aphids.
REMEDY: Pinch back any badly damaged stem tips. Remove light infestations with a spray of water. If problem persists, follow up with an application of insecticidal soap.
White, cottony masses on stems or leaves.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Remove by hand with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat every 3 days until mealybugs are gone.
THE SOFT, DELICATE APPEARANCE OF FERNS brings a surge of green vitality to any place where you want a tropical touch. And, although ferns are not difficult to grow, most of them do need higher levels of humidity than humans consider comfortable. Indeed, once-popular ferns such as the maidenhairs (Adiatum species) are seldom seen in homes and offices today because of their need for very moist air. The ferns profiled in this section are happy with moderate levels of humidity, which can be achieved by misting the plants once a day (or less frequently), double-potting them with sphagnum moss, or setting them on a tray of damp pebbles. These and other techniques for raising the humidity level around plants are explained in detail on page 266. Today’s roomy bathrooms are ideal spots for small ferns, which love to be bathed in steam each time you shower. You can also grow small ferns in a terrarium, as described on page 321.
Exactly how attentive you must be to the matter of humidity depends on whether a fern has thin, feathery leaves or thick, leathery ones. The thinner the leaves, the more essential high humidity becomes. This is why holly ferns, bird’s nest ferns, and brake ferns often succeed in the same place that a feathery asparagus fern sheds into a withered mess. Three of the more challenging ferns are described on the facing page, but working with these species is best undertaken only after you are sure you have a site that provides the high humidity levels they require. Begin with an easy fern before moving on to the more demanding ones.
Bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus) shatters the myth that all ferns are finicky houseplants.
Ferns have shallow, fibrous roots that quickly fill the surface soil in containers. Pots should be as wide as they are deep. Clay pots darken a shade when they are well dampened, so they make good containers that double as moisture indicators. Ferns with attractive surface roots, such as squirrel’s foot ferns and hare’s foot ferns, are ideal plants for moss-lined hanging baskets.
Light: The natural habitat of most ferns is the shady forest floor, though some grow in the crotches of tree limbs in damp forests or jungles. All grow best in moderate light and are easily burned by full sun. Indoors, near a north window, is the first place to try placing a fern in summer. In winter, move the plant to an east window if you have one. Offices lit by fluorescent lights are usually bright enough for ferns. If your office is dim, a fern placed on a pedestal, lit with an energy-saving fluorescent bulb, will become a dramatic focal point.
Some ferns, especially Boston ferns, respond well to being moved to a shady spot outdoors in the summer. In any season, do not move ferns more often than necessary, because they often react poorly to a change of location. If a fern is doing well where it is, limit its movement to rotating it a quarter turn every few days to make sure that all sides get exposed to directional light.
Temperature: Despite their tropical demeanor, most indoor ferns grow best in normal or cool room temperatures. A temperature difference of about 10°F/3°C between day and night is beneficial, since this mimics the conditions they might enjoy in the wild. Slight chilling of ferns, to about 50°F/10°C, is much less stressful than overheating. Dry heat is a fern’s worst enemy.
Fertilizer: Ferns are not heavy feeders, but they do need a little plant food to support new growth. From mid-spring through summer, feed ferns with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half the rate given on the package. How often you feed a fern depends on the season, the species, and the age and vigor of the plant. Monthly feedings may be sufficient, but ferns that show strong seasonal growth in early summer will benefit from more frequent doses of fertilizer. Feed ferns less often in winter. Suspend feeding of ferns for a few weeks after dividing them, or after a repotting operation that involves pruning the roots. Resume feeding after a 6-week recovery period. This break gives new or damaged roots time to develop protective outer layers, which reduces the risk of chemical burning from fertilizer.
Water: Water ferns lightly yet often. Overwatering can cause roots to rot, while underwatered ferns will not grow and may wilt. In summer, it’s a good practice to check ferns daily, though you may need to add water only every other day. In winter, check ferns twice a week. Keep a small pump spray bottle filled with water near your ferns, and mist them each time you check the soil’s moisture. (See page 326 for more information on moisture-monitoring methods.) Dribble a little water from the bottle into the containers whenever they seem dry. Room-temperature water is best for misting and watering ferns.
If a fern dries out too much, the peat moss in the soil mixture — combined with a tight mass of surface roots — may make it difficult to reestablish even moisture in the container. To rehydrate a very dry fern, fill a tub or sink with room-temperature water and submerge the pot to just over the rim. Hold the pot in the water for about 2 minutes, until bubbles stop floating to the surface. Remove the pot and allow it to drain until it stops dripping. Never leave a fern sitting in standing water for more than a few minutes.
Soil: When planting ferns, amend packaged potting soil with peat moss. A half-and-half mixture of potting soil and pulverized peat moss is perfect for most ferns. Dry peat moss absorbs a lot of water, so it’s best to mix the potting soil and peat moss together in a pail and dampen it well before using the mixture to pot up a fern. Do not use potting soil that contains fertilizer. Fertilizer that dissolves too fast can burn delicate fern roots.
Repotting: Like most plants, ferns develop more new growth in summer than in winter, so spring is the best season to repot them. If you want to encourage a small fern to grow larger, move it to a slightly larger pot when the roots have filled the container. To control the size of large ferns, remove the plant from the container and use sharp scissors to prune off about a quarter of the roots. Then replant it in the same size container it grew in before. Except for big Boston ferns, there is seldom a need to use a pot more than 8 in/20 cm wide.
When repotting any fern, take a moment to check the health of the roots. Healthy fern roots have light brown to whitish growing tips. If the roots are black, they are dead. Trimming away dead roots will help protect the health of those that remain by limiting the number of fungi, which regard struggling roots as a delicious lunch.
Propagating: Some ferns, such as Boston ferns, multiply by sending out shallow roots, which develop buds that grow into new plants. These ferns can be propagated by division. Use a sharp knife to cut away little plants that grow near the edge of the container, with roots attached; promptly pot them up, and then refill the hole left behind with a mixture of potting soil and peat moss. Alternatively, in spring when new fronds begin to unfurl, remove the entire plant from the pot and use a sturdy serrated knife to cut the root mass into two or three chunks. Also cut back old fronds and discard them. Repot the divisions and be patient as they slowly recover from surgery.
Sheer curtains are an ideal way to make sure that light-loving ferns, such as polypody ferns (Polypodium aureum), enjoy plenty of light yet are shielded from direct sun.
The furry “feet” of Davallia and other ferns have earned them pet names such as rabbit’s foot fern and squirrel’s foot fern.
Ferns that develop furry creeping rhizomes, such as Davallia and Polyodium species, can be propagated by severing surface roots and planting them in a fresh container. Use a piece of wire or a bent-out paper clip to pin them securely on the surface of the potting mixture. To maintain high humidity while the rhizomes develop roots, enclose the container in a translucent plastic bag until tiny new fronds appear.
Most other ferns reproduce by sporolation, an ancient reproductive process that evolved 200 million years ago, when Earth was a world of water. You will often see round to oblong brown spore cases arranged symmetrically on the undersides of fern fronds in spring and summer. These structures contain single-celled spores, which are the size of dust particles. Unlike seeds, spores contain no food reserves. If they fall onto a very moist medium, they divide into specialized cells that become eggs and sperm. A watery environment is needed for the sperm to unite with the eggs, but if fertilization is successful, the fertilized zygote grows into a new fern. Depending on the species, the transition from spore to new plant may take weeks or months, so it is a difficult process to manage indoors. However, it may occur quite spontaneously in a humid terrarium. Should you see a greenish mass growing on the soil’s surface beneath a fern in your terrarium, it may be evidence of spores that have successfully reached their sexual stage. Continue to watch, but do not attempt to transplant baby ferns until the little fronds are at least 1–2 in/2.5–5 cm tall.
Small details: Chemically speaking, ferns are delicate plants. Never use any type of leafshine product on ferns, because they can cause severe damage. Ferns are sensitive to pesticides, too, so it’s best to control any pests by removing them by hand or by rinsing the plants in a gentle shower. Tobacco smoke can harm ferns, as can other chemical air pollutants. Ferns that show excellent health are a welcome indicator of clean, uncontaminated air.
The fronds of brake ferns (Pteris species) often show unusual shapes or frilled edges. They are frequently called table ferns because they are so easy to grow indoors.
Fronds turn yellow and wilt.
CAUSE: Overwatering.
REMEDY: Reduce amount of water given at a time. Clip off damaged leaves. Check roots to make sure they have not rotted. Dispose of plants if roots are mostly black or dark brown.
Fronds droop and appear wilted.
CAUSE: Underwatering.
REMEDY: Increase water. Rehydrate pot to eliminate badly dried-out pockets (see page 328).
Leaflets are light green and dull.
CAUSE: Excessive light.
REMEDY: Move to a shadier location. Leaf color should stabilize in a couple of weeks.
Leaves turn brown.
CAUSE: Low humidity; natural aging of fronds.
REMEDY: Clip off brown leaves; increase humidity (see page 266).
Leaves bleached and pale, webby material between fronds or on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites (see page 274).
REMEDY: Clip off badly infested fronds, then take the plant into the shower and clean it to dislodge mites. Repeat twice weekly for 2 weeks. Do not use pesticides, which easily damage fern leaves.
Hard brown discs on leaves or stems, especially leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Scale (see page 273).
REMEDY: Clip off badly infested fronds. Use tweezers to remove individual scales. Do not use pesticides, which easily damage fern leaves.
Brown patches on leaves.
CAUSE: Conditions too cold and wet.
REMEDY: Reduce watering and move to a warmer location.
Leaf tips yellow with brown streaks.
CAUSE: Shock from change of location, especially from change of temperature.
REMEDY: Avoid moving plant unless necessary; avoid overheating and chilling.
In the following pages, six of the most popular, easy-to-grow ferns are described in detail. They are listed in alphabetical order by botanical name, but you may not know a fern’s botanical name if it came to you in a dish garden, or if you bought it without benefit of an identification tag. The chart below will help you identify which fern you have. Then turn to the appropriate plant profile to get to know your fern better.
When well pleased, spreading ferns such as Davallia grow into a thick jungle of fine-textured foliage.
FAMILY: POLYPODIACEAE ORIGIN: TROPICAL ASIA
THE BROAD, APPLE GREEN FRONDS of the bird’s nest fern are arranged in a vase shape, which gives this fern a bold, upright appearance. Frequently the fronds have prominent leaf veins that darken to chocolate brown near the base of the plant. The bird’s nest name comes from the hairy central crown, which resembles a bird’s nest. Ferns of this genus were once called spleenworts, since it was believed that they could cure illnesses associated with the spleen.
The bird’s nest fern is easy to grow in homes and workplaces. It tolerates dry air better than many other ferns, but raising humidity a little by placing the pot atop a dish of damp pebbles is beneficial. A healthy plant will grows to 18 in/45 cm tall, or taller when it is very well pleased. New fronds unfurl from the plant’s center. It is normal for the oldest, outer fronds to turn brown. When this happens, simply clip them off with scissors. If the broad leaves of bird’s nest fern collect dust, rinse them with a light spray of water, and then wipe clean with a soft damp cloth.
Bird’s nest fern (Asplenium nidus)
FAMILY: ASPIDIACEAE ORIGIN: CHINA AND JAPAN
HOLLY FERN LOOKS MORE LIKE a small shrub than a fern. Like a holly, the leathery, dark green fronds have a glossy finish, with toothed edges. Tremendously cold tolerant, holly ferns are often grown as a shade-tolerant groundcover in mild winter climates, where they easily survive temperatures as low as 30°F/-1°C. Indoors, take advantage of holly fern’s cold tolerance by growing it in drafty entryways. Holly ferns also tolerate dry air well, and they greatly enjoy spending the summer outdoors in a shady spot.
Holly ferns grow to about 24 in/60 cm tall, and multiply by division. When repotting, make sure the crown sits slightly high; it should not be buried. The roots of holly ferns are tougher than those of other ferns, and not nearly as likely to burn when grown in potting soil that includes natural or synthetic time-release fertilizer. Early spring is the best time to repot a holly fern, because plants make most of their new growth in early summer. Keep the glossy leaves clean by rinsing them from time to time in a warm shower.
Holly fern (Cyrtomium falcatum)
FAMILY: DAVALLIACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTHWESTERN EUROPE
ALL OF THE DAVALLIA FERNS develop creeping surface rhizomes covered with furry scales so that they resemble animal’s feet. The foliage of various species varies as well. Deer’s foot fern (D. canariensis) features large, thick rhizomes and sturdy, leathery fronds. Squirrel’s foot fern (D. trichomanoides) has smaller rhizomes and more feathery fronds. Rabbit’s foot fern (D. fejeensis) has very furry feet and light, airy fronds. Davallias with fine foliage need more humidity than those with thicker fronds.
These ferns grow 12–18 in/30–45 cm tall, and are at their best in hanging baskets. When given ample moisture, the creeping rhizomes will grow out of the container and over the side of the pot. These furry rhizomes are more than decorative; they take up moisture and nutrients for the plant, and work best when allowed to crawl over a damp surface. Never bury them, or they will rot.
Davallias are sensitive to salt buildup. In early summer, purge out excess salts by soaking the container in a tub of warm water. Then allow it to drip dry. Slight shedding of old leaflets is normal, especially in winter.
Rabbit’s foot fern (Davallia species)
Light: North or east window, or in good fluorescent light.
Temperature: At night, cool (60°F/16°C). During the day, warm (75°F/24°C), year-round.
Fertilizer: Year-round, feed every 2 weeks with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half the normal strength.
Water: Water lightly yet often; mist daily to keep rhizomes from drying out.
Soil: Half-and-half mixture of potting soil and peat moss.
Repotting: Every 2 years, preferably in spring.
Longevity: Many years; indefinitely when propagated from rhizomes.
Propagation: Spores, division, and propagation of rhizomes (see page 335).
Selections: Sold by species or common names.
Display tips: Grow davallias in a moss-lined hanging basket or broad clay pot so that the furry rhizomes can easily be seen.
FAMILY: DAVALLIACEAE ORIGIN: MUTATION, ORIGINALLY FROM CENTRAL AMERICA
THESE ARE THE LARGE, INEXPENSIVE FERNS often sold in hanging baskets in the spring. Many people buy them to hang on a porch or patio in summer. When shopping, look for plants with new fronds unfurling from the plant’s center.
Boston ferns are descended from a mutation that turned up growing in a parlor in Boston around 1890. The fronds may grow from 12–36 in/30–90 cm long, depending on selection and growing conditions. Although Boston ferns are great outdoors in summer, keeping them healthy through winter can be a challenge because they need bright light and high humidity. Mist them daily when keeping them indoors, and try to find a good place where they receive plenty of light but no direct sun. Indoors or out, some shedding of old fronds and browning of frond tips is normal. Keep scissors handy for clipping off fronds that break or turn brown.
New plants grow from the outside of the parent clump. These can be cut away and replanted, or you can allow the plants to develop into a large mass and then cut them into smaller clumps before replanting them.
Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)
Light: Filtered light from a south or west window.
Temperature: Indoors: At night, below 60°F/16°C; during the day, about 70°F/21°C. Outdoors: Adapts to a range of 60–70°F/16–21°C nights and 80–85°F/27–29°C days.
Fertilizer: Year-round, feed every 2 weeks with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half the normal strength.
Water: Constant light moisture. In warm summer weather, large baskets often need to be rehydrated (see page 328).
Soil: Half-and-half mixture of peat moss and potting soil.
Repotting: Annually, in late spring or early summer.
Longevity: 2 years or so; indefinitely when propagated by division.
Propagation: Division of clump, preferably in spring.
Selections: ‘Compacta’ grows to only 18 in/45 cm tall and 30 in/75 cm wide. ‘Bostoniensis’ is larger, with long cascading fronds that may reach 36 in/90 cm in length. ‘Fluffy Ruffles’ is stiffly upright. Numerous other cultivars are available.
Display tips: Hanging baskets are the ideal way to grow Boston ferns.
FAMILY: POLYPODIACEAE ORIGIN: TROPICAL AMERICA
THIS LITTLE 12-INCH-TALL FERN is easy to grow, and makes a lovely small specimen when grouped with other plants that like moderate to high humidity. A single handsome polypody fern makes an elegant addition to any well-lit room. Polypody fern’s fronds, comprised of flat, pointed leaflets with wavy edges, are much less prone to shedding than ferns with more feathery foliage. In addition to attractive, deep green leaves that often have a gray-blue cast, polypody ferns develop furry creeping rhizomes on the soil’s surface. However, the fronds often become so lush and thick that the rhizomes are hidden from view.
Grow these plants in broad clay pots that provide room for the rhizomes to spread. Because of their small size and creeping roots, polypody ferns are also good plants to mount on a moss-covered stone or log in a terrarium. When grown in open rooms, keep in mind that polypody ferns need more light than other ferns. They are also at their best when misted daily and fertilized weekly from spring through summer.
Polypody fern (Polypodium aureum)
Light: Bright indirect light.
Temperature: At night, cool (60–65°F/16–18°C). During the day, warm (70–80°F/21–27°C).
Fertilizer: In spring and summer, weekly applications of a balanced houseplant food mixed at half the normal strength. In fall and winter, feed monthly with the same solution.
Water: Constant light moisture year-round.
Soil: Half-and-half mixture of peat moss and potting soil.
Repotting: Every 2 years, in spring.
Longevity: 4 to 5 years; indefinitely when propagated by division.
Propagation: Spores; rhizome division (see page 335).
Selections: ‘Mandaianum’ has bluish green fronds with twisted and toothed edges. Some selections have grayish leaf undersides, giving them a silvery appearance.
Display tips: The fronds of mature plants often arch outward to form nearly horizontal layers, which gives them a refined, formal appearance.
FAMILY: PTERIDACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTHERN MEDITERRANEAN AND WESTERN ASIA
FERNS OF THIS SPECIES ARE SO DAINTY that you may think they are difficult to grow, but in fact they are excellent ferns for beginners. Many cultivars have unusual frilled frond tips or variegated leaflets. For example, various forms of brake fern (Pteris cretica) feature white stripes down the centers of the leaflets, or lacy edges lining lime green fronds. Tiny ribbon ferns (P. ensiformis), sometimes called Victoria ferns, have silvery fronds with dark green edges. Other ferns within this genus develop frills at the ends of the leaflets. All make fine tabletop plants for any room. Avoid placing them in high-activity areas, because the foliage is somewhat brittle and easily damaged by physical contact.
Most table ferns grow only 6–12 in/15–30 cm tall, but a few can reach 36 in/90 cm. Cool nights are important, but these ferns tolerate neglect better than most others. Do mist table ferns daily in winter when indoor humidity is likely to be very low. These are generally slow-growing ferns that rarely need dividing.
Brake fern (Pteris cretica)
Light: From spring through fall, moderate light near a north window. In winter, bright light near an east window, or fluorescent light.
Temperature: Average to cool (60–70°F/16–21°C).
Fertilizer: In spring and summer, weekly applications of a balanced houseplant food mixed at half the normal strength. In fall and winter, feed monthly with the same solution.
Water: Keep soil very lightly moist at all times, but avoid overwatering. Needs slightly less water than other ferns.
Soil: Half-and-half mixture of potting soil and peat moss. Do not pack it around roots too tightly.
Repotting: Annually or as needed, preferably in spring.
Longevity: 5 to 6 years; indefinitely when propagated by division every 4 to 5 years.
Propagation: Spores; division every fourth spring.
Selections: ‘Albo-lineata’ Cretan brake fern has a cream stripe in the center of each leaflet. ‘Victoriae’ sword brake fern has silvery white fronds edged with dark green. ‘Cristata’ crested spider brake fern has long slender leaflets with frilled tips. Many more are available.
Display tips: Place these showy ferns on tabletops where the fine details of the leaflets can be viewed up close. Small plants make pretty centerpieces.
SEVERAL VERY DIFFERENT HOUSEPLANTS are called ficus, including the four profiled here: weeping fig (Ficus benjamina), rubber plant (F. elastica), fiddle-leaf fig (F. lyrata), and creeping fig (F. pumila). More than a dozen additional species are occasionally grown as houseplants.
Like other members of the Moraceae family, houseplant ficus have a sticky, latex-type sap, which is in such abundant supply in the rubber plant that actual rubber can be made from it. Found on every tropical and temperate continent, plants of this genus feature unusual, fig-type flowers (ficus is Latin for fig). Fig flowers line the inside of a fruitlike cavity, which has an opening through which insects can enter. After the flowers are fertilized, the cavity develops into a fruit. Ficus species grown as houseplants very rarely show this characteristic, a shortcoming for which they can be forgiven considering how willingly they adapt to indoor growing conditions in homes and offices.
The weeping fig (Ficus benjamina) is the most popular tree to grow as a houseplant.
With the exception of the tough little creeping fig vine, house-plant ficus have a well-deserved reputation for coping poorly with change. They tend to perform best when kept in a spot they like and moved as little as possible. Do rotate your plant to ensure that all sides get their turn to absorb directional light, but do not mistake the shedding of leaves as a sign that a ficus should be moved or repotted. Ficus plants will adjust to any space that suits them, but the process often takes a few weeks. Be patient.
Attentive watering is also required, and with practice you will learn the preferences of your plant. Tip containers slightly to feel their weight before and after watering. Because most ficus are trees, they are grown in large pots. Once the soil in the containers becomes compacted with roots, water applied from the top may run out through the drainage holes before it thoroughly moistens the roots. Occasionally it may be necessary to rehydrate pots in which rubber plant or fiddle-leaf ficus are grown in order to restore moisture to the innermost sections of the container (see page 328.)
People often become quite attached to their ficus plants, which have quirky yet agreeable personalities. With a good understanding of your plant’s nature, you should have wonderful success growing the ficus of your choice.
Leaves drop from any large-leafed ficus.
CAUSE: Common response to environmental stress; or, in weeping fig, usually a normal yearly occurrence.
REMEDY: Many new owners of ficus plants are alarmed when their plants begin shedding leaves as soon as they get them home. Resist the temptation to repot, feed, or overwater a shedding plant. Instead, allow them about 6 weeks of recovery time. Plants may show no new growth until spring, but they should stop shedding leaves within a few weeks. Weeping fig often sheds leaves yearly, in the fall, even when the plant is perfectly happy and has not been subjected to stress.
Leaves of weeping fig or fiddle-leaf fig feel sticky and fall while still green.
CAUSE: Scale, which appears as very small beige bumps on bark, stems, and leaves.
REMEDY: Prune out badly infested branches. Take plant outdoors if you can, and spray it thoroughly with a soap-oil spray (see formula on page 275). Two days later, wash plant with warm water, wiping leaf undersides by hand. After a week, inspect plant closely and repeat treatment if needed.
Leaf tips of fiddle-leaf fig turn brown.
CAUSE: Improper watering or magnesium deficiency.
REMEDY: When watering, make sure the entire root mass becomes well moistened, as water is prone to run down the sides of the pot before it soaks in. Once a year, mix a teaspoon of Epsom salts into the water to provide magnesium, which is sometimes absent in fertilizers.
Leaves appear pale and parched, with webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: All ficus are moderately susceptible to spider mites, though they are seldom the first plants in a diversified collection to become infested. See pages 274–75 for information on making a positive identification of this pest. If a large-leafed ficus becomes infested, gently wash leaves with a sponge dipped in soapy water, rinse it well, and then treat with insecticidal soap. Ficus tolerates the soap oil spray described on page 275.
Rubber plant ficus has large, dark-colored leaves but shows little new growth.
CAUSE: Insufficient light.
REMEDY: Once acclimated to low light, rubber plant will remain healthy, but moderate to bright light is needed to coax out new growth. If necessary, move plant outdoors to a shady porch or patio in summer. It should respond to warmth and increased light by producing a nice flush of new leaves.
The broad leaves of fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) make it a fine sculptural plant that can help structure space in large rooms.
FAMILY: MORACEAE ORIGIN: INDIA AND ASIA
THE MOST POPULAR TREE GROWN as a houseplant, weeping fig often goes into crying fits by shedding its leaves. In late summer and fall, the loss of up to 20 percent of the leaves is quite natural. To keep leaf loss to a minimum in any season, mist plant daily to increase humidity, and withhold fertilizer until the leaf drop stops. Also, resist the temptation to overwater a shedding plant, which makes the problem worse. With good care, new leaves will appear in spring and summer to replace those that were lost. Weeping figs are slow growers. Dwarf cultivars grow to only 36 in/90 cm tall, but most weeping figs grow to 10 ft/3 m or more when they are happy. Prune large plants by thinning out tall branches.
You can keep your weeping fig indoors year-round, or move it to a shady place outdoors for the summer. Before bringing the plant inside, check it carefully for sticky leaves, caused by feeding of scale insects. See page 273 for more information on this pest.
Weeping fig (Ficus benjamina)
FAMILY: MORACEAE ORIGIN: INDIA AND MALAYSIA
THE STICKY LATEX SAP OF RUBBER PLANT does dry into a low-quality rubber, but indoors this species is valued for its smooth, glossy leaves that often grow more than 8 in/20 cm long. In the wild, this large evergreen can grow to 40 ft/12 m or more, but indoor plants require years to reach 12 ft/3.6 m. Wipe the leaves periodically with a damp cloth to keep them shiny, and avoid environmental changes, which often cause a rubber plant to shed its lower leaves. If you want to encourage a plant to branch, lightly nicking the bark just above where a low leaf detached itself will mobilize new growth from the latent node. Rubber plants also may send out aerial roots near the base, which should be tucked down into the soil or wound around the soil’s surface inside the pot.
Rubber plant (Ficus elastica)
Light: Bright to moderate light but no direct sun.
Temperature: Average to warm room temperatures (65–80°F/18–27°C).
Fertilizer: Feed three to four times a year with a balanced houseplant food that includes micronutrients. Twice yearly, add ½ teaspoon/2.5 ml Epsom salts to a quart of water, and soak the roots with this solution.
Water: From spring through summer, keep lightly moist, but do not overwater. In fall and winter, water less, allowing soil to dry to 1 in/2.5 cm below the surface.
Soil: Any peaty potting soil that drains well.
Repotting: Every other year, or more often if plant sends out numerous aerial roots. Do not repot a plant that is shedding leaves, as a shedding plant benefits from a stable environment.
Longevity: 15 years or more.
Propagation: When plants outgrow their space, propagate by air layering as described on page 304.
Selections: Several varieties with reddish leaves are named after wines, such as ‘Burgundy’ and ‘Cabernet’. The ‘Decora’ series of patented rubber plants have showy variegated leaves except for ‘Melany’, which features a compact, branching form with glossy green leaves.
Display tips: This is a great floor plant, capable of showing exuberant growth in good light. Plants in low light tend to grow broad and bushy. If needed, provide supplemental overhead light to keep a large plant growing upright.
FAMILY: MORACEAE ORIGIN: WESTERN AFRICA
WITH HUGE, SLIGHTLY WAVY, GREEN LEAVES in the shape of a fiddle, this tropical fig is actually a tree capable of growing 40 ft/12 m tall in its jungle home. Indoors, plants grow very slowly, and can be kept for many years before they outgrow their space. The large, light-catching leaves grow to more than 12 in/30 cm long and 6 in/15 cm wide. When kept clean, they impart a lush, serene elegance to any indoor space.
Fiddle-leaf fig is easy to grow, and can be trained into various shapes. To promote bushiness, prune off the top of a young plant. If you prefer a more treelike shape, allow the plant to grow tall, then clip off all leaves and branches from the lowest section of the trunk. Plants with braided trunks are available, too, and they are as simple to grow as single plants. This species produces edible fruits when grown outdoors, but indoors it is strictly a foliage plant.
Fiddle-leaf fig (Ficus lyrata)
Light: Bright to moderate indirect light or fluorescent light.
Temperature: Average to warm (60–85°F/16–29°C).
Fertilizer: Feed three times a year (spring, midsummer, and fall) with a high-nitrogen foliage plant food that includes micronutrients.
Water: Keep soil lightly moist at all times, but avoid overwatering. This ficus needs more water than other species.
Soil: Any good potting soil that drains well. A heavy, soil-based mix amended with peat moss is ideal.
Repotting: Repot every other year in spring, but try to keep plant in a small pot to control its size. Use a heavy container to help prevent toppling.
Longevity: 10 years or more, or until plant becomes too large to keep indoors.
Propagation: Air layer a healthy stem as described on page 304. Most commercially available plants are grown from tissue culture.
Selections: In addition to the species, a few compact varieties are available. An exemplary patented variety, ‘Little Fiddle’, produces leaves half the size of regular fiddle-leaf figs, and grows less than 6 ft/1.8 m tall over a period of many years.
Display tips: An excellent floor plant for homes or offices, fiddle-leaf fig is at its best when the leaves are kept clean and polished.
FAMILY: MORACEAE ORIGIN: CHINA AND JAPAN
YOU CAN GROW THIS PETITE VINING FICUS in a pot, but its climbing talents are better put to use clinging to a topiary form. The stems develop rootlike holdfasts, similar to those of English ivy, which attach tightly to wood, brick, or other solid surfaces. The heart-shaped leaves, to 1 in/2.5 cm long, give creeping fig a fine texture, and it often flourishes when grown in terrariums with other small-leafed plants. With regular trimming, it can also be used as a groundcover in large containers in which upright plants such as Norfolk pine are grown. Creeping fig likes constant light moisture, but the plants will yellow or rot if overwatered. Often grown as an outdoor groundcover or wall plant in Zones 8 and 9, creeping fig can survive 30–40°F/-1–4°C temperatures, but not hard freezes.
Creeping fig (Ficus pumila)
FAMILY: ACANTHACEAE ORIGIN: COLUMBIA AND PERU
EACH LEAF OF A FITTONIA PLANT is a living work of art. Against a background of deep olive green, leaf veins of white, pink, or green branch and flow in symmetrical patterns. The finely etched leaves of fittonia have earned it a prominent place in small dish gardens and terrariums, where it usually grows beautifully with the help of constant moisture and very high humidity. However, the plants often do not fare as well when planted into individual pots and handled as regular houseplants. Dry indoor air and strong light easily stress fittonia, and the plant cannot tolerate dry soil. However, when kept in an ideal spot and watered attentively, nerve plant’s new growth becomes so vinelike that regular pinching is needed to keep it bushy and full. Also pinch off small flower spikes should they appear, because they will weaken the show of leaves. Full-sized fittonias grow about 6 in/15 cm tall and 12 in/30 cm wide, with miniature forms smaller.
Despite their temperamental nature, fittonias are very easy to propagate from stem tip cuttings. In a terrarium, stem tips tucked into any vacant spot of soil often show new growth within 2 weeks.
Nerve plant (Fittonia verschaffeltii)
Light: Moderate indirect light or fluorescent light.
Temperature: Average room temperatures (65–75°F/18–24°C).
Fertilizer: From spring through summer, feed monthly with a balanced houseplant food. In winter, feed every 6 weeks.
Water: Provide water as needed to keep plant constantly moist. Plant will collapse if it dries out.
Soil: Any peaty potting soil that holds moisture well.
Repotting: Annually in spring, or as needed to rearrange plants in a dish garden or terrarium.
Longevity: Several years; indefinitely when propagated from stem tip cuttings.
Propagation: In spring or summer, root stem tip cuttings as described on page 299. Under warm, humid conditions, cuttings develop roots in 2 to 3 weeks.
Selections: Vein color varies with selection, and may be white, pink, or red. Selections also vary in leaf size. Miniature forms are ideal for small terrariums.
Display tips: This plant requires high humidity, so it is best grown in a terrarium or dish garden. Combine it with small ferns, prayer plant, and other foliage plants that need humid conditions.
Entire plant collapses.
CAUSE: Dry soil.
REMEDY: Fittonia is famous for having fainting spells when its roots fail to keep the succulent stems supplied with water. If promptly watered, the plant will recover with no ill effects, but dehydration for more than a few hours can be fatal.
Leaves turn yellow.
CAUSE: Too much water; poor drainage.
REMEDY: Check drainage holes in bottom of pot to make sure they are not plugged with debris. Fittonia needs light moisture at all times, but roots suffer when all oxygen is forced from the soil by water. Pinch back stems to remove yellow leaves, and allow slightly more drying time between waterings.
Small white gnats hover over the soil.
CAUSE: Fungus gnats.
REMEDY: The moist, peaty soil conditions fittonia needs favor fungus gnats, which require ongoing management once established. See page 270 for detailed information on the life cycle and control measures for this pest.
White cottony masses on stems or leaves.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and remove mealybugs with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat every few days until mealybugs are controlled. Do not use pesticides, oils, or soap sprays on this plant, as the thin leaves are easily damaged.
New growing tips are wilted; small wedge-shaped insects present on stems or new leaves.
CAUSE: Aphids.
REMEDY: Pinch off badly infested stem tips. If possible, place plant over a sink of lukewarm water and gently wash off aphids. Watch plant closely, and repeat after a few days. Do not use pesticides, oils, or soap sprays on this plant, as the thin leaves are easily damaged.
FAMILY: ASTERACEAE ORIGIN: INDONESIA
IF YOU LIKE HOUSEPLANTS THAT GROW RAPIDLY, velvet plant should be on your most-wanted list. Whether grown in pots or hanging baskets, velvet plant wastes no time developing stocky stems studded with dark red or green leaves covered with a down of purple hairs. Stems may grow to 20 in/50 cm tall. Easy to grow provided you have a brightly lit spot, velvet plant has been popular in homes for 200 years.
Year-old velvet plants often produce small yellow-orange flowers in spring, but they emit an unpleasant smell, so most people clip them off. Should your plant bloom, take it as a sign that the plant has reached maturity, and expect it to begin to decline. Before that happens, root stem cuttings. Use the method described on page 299, but remove any covering of the cuttings each night so that the leaves get a break from constant dampness. The hairs on velvet plant leaves trap moisture, which makes them prone to rot when they are not allowed to dry out. Still, this is one of the easiest of all indoor plants to propagate from stem cuttings.
Velvet plant (Gynura sarmentosa)
Light: Most comfortable in moderate light; bright light intensifies leaf color.
Temperature: Cool to average room temperatures (60–75°F/16–24°C).
Fertilizer: From spring through fall, feed with a balanced houseplant food every 2 weeks. In winter, feed monthly.
Water: Keep soil lightly moist at all times. Plant will wilt quickly if it becomes dry, but makes a fast recovery when rehydrated.
Soil: Any good potting soil.
Repotting: Repot annually in spring. Propagate plants more than 2 years old instead of repotting them.
Longevity: 2 to 3 years; indefinitely when propagated by rooting stem cuttings.
Propagation: Root 3 in/7.5 cm-long stem cuttings as described on page 299.
Selections: Plants sold under the variety name ‘Purple Passion’ tend to be upright and very dark purple. Trailing forms, suitable for hanging baskets, are often classified as G. sarmentosa.
Display tips: The dark foliage of velvet plant is useful in containers planted with several houseplants, especially hanging baskets. Or, you can keep it in its own pot and display it alongside plants that have chartreuse leaves or blooming houseplants with pink flowers. The downy leaves look great when backlit by a sunny window.
Leaves are more green than purple.
CAUSE: Too little light.
REMEDY: Move the plant to a slightly brighter place for a few days, and then to a spot that receives a little direct sun. Leaf color should darken within 2 weeks.
Plant wilts daily even when watered.
CAUSE: Pocket of dry roots and soil in middle of pot; plant may be extremely rootbound.
REMEDY: First try rehydrating the pot (see page 328). If problem persists and plant is more than 2 years old, prune back the plant by half its size, set three of the best stem tips to root (see page 299), and repot the mother plant. (Wait until you know you have successful rooted cuttings before you discard the mother.)
Leaves show dark patches.
CAUSE: Water damage from water that remained on leaves for long periods after watering; water droplets on leaves that heated up from sunlight.
REMEDY: When watering, try to keep leaves dry. Should you wet the leaves on purpose to clean them, shake off excess moisture and set the plant in a shady place to dry.
Leaves puckered or curled, with small insects clinging to leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Aphids.
REMEDY: If only a few leaves are infested, pick them off and dispose of them. Then take plant outside or into a warm shower and rinse it off thoroughly. Recheck after 3 days, and “paint” any aphids found with a cotton swab dipped in soapy water.
Plant collapses and does not respond to rehydrating.
CAUSE: Root rot, which can be made worse by overwatering or cold conditions.
REMEDY: Discard plant. Allow new plants to become almost dry between waterings, and keep them in a place where temperatures stay above 60°F/16°C.
FAMILY: ARALIACEAE ORIGIN: EUROPE AND WESTERN ASIA
THIS VERSATILE PLANT HAS A DAINTY demeanor that works well in pots or hanging baskets, as well as trained as topiary or employed as a groundcover in containers occupied by large, upright houseplants. There are hundreds of varieties, including many with small, finely cut leaves, often called needlepoint ivies. Small-leafed ivies are the most popular houseplants, though dozens of other varieties deserve consideration. Ivy enjoys spending part of the year outdoors, particularly spring and fall, when days are mild and nights are cool.
When planted outdoors, English ivy can become a pest by running up trees and buildings, but indoors it needs help holding onto support. Pin stems in place when training ivy on a moss-filled topiary form. Some people develop slight dermatitis from exposure to ivy’s sap, and the leaves are poisonous if eaten.
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Light: In spring and summer, moderate light. In fall and winter, bright or fluorescent light.
Temperature: Average to cool room temperatures (50–70°F/10–21°C); temperatures should be 10°F/6°C cooler at night than during the day.
Fertilizer: Feed monthly year-round with a high-nitrogen foliage plant fertilizer.
Water: Allow surface of soil to dry between waterings, but do not let soil dry out completely.
Soil: Any good potting soil that drains well.
Repotting: Every 1 to 2 years, in spring or fall, when roots show through the drainage holes. Shift to a slightly larger pot, but avoid very large containers, which may contribute to problems with root rot.
Longevity: Many years; indefinitely when propagated from stem tip cuttings.
Propagation: Root stem tip cuttings in damp perlite or plain water.
Selections: There are more than 500 named cultivars, which vary in leaf shape, size, and variegation. Cultivars honored by the American Ivy Society include ‘Golden Ingot’ and ‘Duck Foot’. A variegated form of Algerian ivy (H. canariensis), ‘Floire de Marengo’, is a good choice for warmer growing conditions.
Display tips: Place ivy in pots near the edge of a mantle or other surface where the stems can cascade over the edge. Ivy topiaries are a fine accent for formal rooms and outdoor sitting areas.
Leaves of variegated varieties change to mostly green.
CAUSE: Insufficient light.
REMEDY: In winter, move plant close to an east or west window or provide supplemental fluorescent light. Place plant outdoors for a few weeks in spring and fall, when temperatures are cool. Moderate light conditions are appropriate in summer, when plants are best kept indoors to protect them from excessive heat.
Leaves look parched, with yellow pinpricks near the base of affected leaves.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Perhaps the most susceptible of all plants to these tiny pests, ivy must be watched closely for early symptoms. Prevent this problem by thoroughly washing plant once a month with cool water. If mites are confirmed to be present (see page 276), isolate plant and prune off severely infested leaves or branches. Fill a deep sink with cool water, and wash plant to dislodge mites. Repeat after 5 days before trying additional remedies as described on page 274. Always wash plants before bringing them indoors.
Leaves wilt; plant shows little or no new growth.
CAUSE: Too much or too little water.
REMEDY: Ivy needs constant light moisture, but roots will rot if plant is overwatered. Check drainage holes to make sure they are free of debris, and switch to frequent light waterings for a few weeks to see if the plant improves.
Tan or brown discs on stems and leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Scale insects are seldom seen on ivy kept indoors yearround, but sometimes appear on plants that are kept outdoors. Carefully check plant for scale and other insects before bringing it indoors. Remove scale with your fingernail, or consider other remedies described on page 273.
White cottony deposits on stems.
CAUSE: Mealybug.
REMEDY: Wash plant, then remove any mealybugs that remain with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Repeat after a week if problem persists.
FAMILY: ACANTHACEAE ORIGIN: MADAGASCAR
THE BEAUTIFULLY VARIEGATED LEAVES of polka dot plant have become much more painterly in recent years. Plant breeders have produced varieties that show much more color in their leaves, including some in which the base color of the leaves is red rather than green. And, although pink remains the most popular choice in polka dot plants, white and red variegated forms often are available in spring.
Polka dot plant is grown from seeds, and commercial growers customarily set three seedlings in each pot. This plant can be grown outdoors in summer, or you can keep it as a houseplant year-round. Pinch back stems that grow more than 10 in/25 cm long to encourage the development of bushy branches. Polka dot plant is an excellent color plant to display among ferns and other foliage plants, and it benefits from the increased humidity that results when plants are grouped together. Occasionally, year-old plants produce spikes of purple flowers in late winter. After blooming, plants quickly deteriorate. Bloom or no bloom, it is best to replace plants in spring with vigorous young seedlings.
Polka dot plant (Hypoestes phyllostachya)
Light: Bright light or filtered sun from a south or west window.
Temperature: Average to warm (65–80°F/18–27°C).
Fertilizer: Feed every 2 weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer mixed at half the normal strength.
Water: Keep lightly moist at all times, but avoid overwatering.
Soil: Any good potting soil.
Repotting: Shift new plants to larger containers as soon as they are purchased. Repot again in midsummer if plants become root-bound.
Longevity: Up to 2 years for individual plants.
Propagation: Seeds started in late winter or rooted stem cuttings. Even when rooting powder is used, rooting is slow.
Selections: Two series, ‘Splash’ and ‘Confetti’, are widely available as seedlings in the spring. In addition to the traditional pink-speckled forms, both series include varieties with deep rose, red, and white variegation. In the red forms, the green parts of the leaves are blushed with deep burgundy.
Display tips: Grown in a ceramic or brass container, the variegated leaves of polka dot plant appear quite clean and formal.
Variegation fades and leaves become mostly green.
CAUSE: Too little light.
REMEDY: Strong light is needed to keep the leaves of this plant nicely colored. Pinch back leggy growth and shift to a brighter location.
Leaves curl inward.
CAUSE: Too much light.
REMEDY: Hot sun for more than an hour each day can stress plants, resulting in slow growth and curled leaves. Shield plant from direct sun with a sheer curtain.
Leaves turn yellow and drop off.
CAUSE: Overwatering.
REMEDY: Reduce watering, and consider repotting plant to improve drainage.
Leaves drop off without turning yellow.
CAUSE: Drought stress.
REMEDY: Pinch off leggy stems and increase frequency of watering. New stems will emerge within a few weeks.
Small white flying insects congregate on plant.
CAUSE: Whitefly.
REMEDY: Thoroughly clean plant with tepid water, then isolate it from other houseplants. See page 277 for control measures for persistent infestations of whitefly.
Leaves pale and parched; webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Pinch off badly infested stems and dispose of them. Clean plant with tepid water, then isolate it from other houseplants. Mist daily to increase humidity. See pages 274-76 for control measures for persistent infestations of spider mites.
Small brown bumps on stems; plants grow slowly.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Remove scale by hand, using a fingernail or toothpick. Pinch off badly infested stems. Consider disposing of badly infested plant.
FAMILY: MARANTACEAE ORIGIN: BRAZIL
PRAYER PLANT HAS THE REMARKABLE ABILITY to fold its leaves, prayer-like, in response to darkness. Light causes the leaves to resume their horizontal posture, which you can watch if you keep a lamp near the plant and turn it on after dark. Accepting of moderate light, including most types of office lighting, a prayer plant can be a long-lived green companion if given good care. In 2 or 3 years, a small plant received in a dish garden will grow to 12 in/30 cm tall and 16 in/40 cm wide.
Prayer plants produce small, white, tubular flowers when kept in conservatories, but they rarely bloom when handled as house-plants. Indoor-grown prayer plants excel at producing dramatic leaves, and they benefit from being trimmed back periodically, which keeps them shapely and promotes new growth. Prayer plants often rest in winter, and then produce a flush of new leaves in spring. To keep the showy leaves in top viewing condition, wipe them periodically with a damp cloth. In summer, give your prayer plant a thorough outdoor shower on a warm day. This will clean the plant and leach accumulated salts from the soil.
Prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura)
Light: Moderate light from a north or east window, or fluorescent light.
Temperature: Average to warm (65–80°F/18–27°C).
Fertilizer: In spring and summer, feed every 2 weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer mixed at half the normal rate. In fall and winter, feed monthly with the same solution.
Water: Keep soil lightly moist at all times, and raise humidity by misting plant every few days or keeping it on a bed of damp pebbles.
Soil: Any good potting soil.
Repotting: Prayer plant likes well-aerated soil, which is the main reason to repot annually in spring. Do not pack the potting soil tightly around the roots.
Longevity: Many years.
Propagation: When plant becomes too large, divide it in spring by cutting the roots into two large chunks. Plant may need several weeks to recover from this operation.
Selections: ‘Erythroneura’ and ‘Fascinator’ are called red prayer plants or herringbone plants because of their bright red leaf veins. ‘Kerchoveana’, or green prayer plant, is sometimes called “rabbit tracks” because of the square, brownish marks between the leaf veins. ‘Massangeana’, also called silver prayer plant, has blackish green leaves with silvery gray midribs.
Display tips: Grow prayer plant in a shallow container or combine it with other foliage plants in a tabletop garden. Prayer plant benefits from having close neighbors, which usually increases humidity.
Leaves pale and slightly curled.
CAUSE: Too much light.
REMEDY: Prayer plant does not need direct sunlight and grows best with filtered or indirect light.
No new growth.
CAUSE: Insufficient fertilizer or stunting from fertilizer burn or accumulated salts.
REMEDY: Repot plant in a clean container with fresh soil. A month later, begin feeding it with a dilute balanced plant food. Expect most of the plant’s new growth to appear in late spring and summer.
Plant appears weak and floppy despite regular watering.
CAUSE: Root mealybugs.
REMEDY: Remove plant from pot and inspect the roots. If mealybugs are present, swish the root ball in a pail of warm water and remove any hangers-on by hand. Repot in a clean container with fresh soil, and isolate plant until you are sure it has recovered.
Small brown discs on leaves and stems.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Isolate plant and treat for scale as described on page 273.
Leaves dry and pale; faint webbing on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Prune off badly affected leaves and isolate plant. Clean thoroughly with warm water and begin misting daily. Spray with insecticidal soap if problem persists, or try another remedy described on pages 274–76.
FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: MEXICO AND GUATEMALA
EASY TO GROW AND TOLERANT of occasional neglect, this handsome foliage plant produces dramatically perforated leaves to 12 in/30 cm long, or sometimes larger. A climber that attaches itself to a post with aerial roots, monstera makes a bold, vertical accent plant in large spaces. Over a period of 7 years it can grow to 6–8 ft/1.8–2.4 m tall. Mature plants develop rounded slits, or windows, in their leaves that resemble the holes in Swiss cheese. In the wild, these holes help the plant withstand strong winds. When grown outdoors in tropical areas, monstera produces an edible fruit, but plants seldom flower and fruit when grown indoors.
Healthy plants produce a steady parade of pencil-thick aerial roots, which gather moisture from the air. Secure roots that emerge near the base of the plant into the soil, and train others to cling to the plant’s post. The leaves of this plant are poisonous, and can cause a severe burning sensation in the mouth if eaten by people or pets.
Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)
Light: Moderate to bright light, but no direct sun.
Temperature: Average to warm (65–85°F/18–29°C).
Fertilizer: From spring through summer, feed every 2 weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. In winter, feed monthly.
Water: Allow the soil to dry to within an inch of the surface between waterings. Water less in winter than in summer.
Soil: A heavy mix comprised of 2 parts clean, bagged topsoil, 2 parts peat moss, and 1 part sand or perlite.
Repotting: Repot every other spring. Keep plant in a large pot that provides room for planting of the aerial roots that emerge near the base of the plant. Mature plants require the support of a stout wood post.
Longevity: Many years.
Propagation: When the plant outgrows the space you have for it, propagate a vigorous stem tip by air layering or by rooting it as a stem tip cutting. Air layering is the easiest and most reliable method.
Selections: Most plants have glossy, dark green leaves, but variegated forms are available. Over time, these may revert to all-green leaves. Young plants without windows in their leaves are sometimes sold as Philodendron pertusum.
Display tips: This is an ideal floor plant for large spaces. It can fill the corner of a brightly lit room, or you can use it to divide space in large, open corridors. Clean leaves often to keep them vibrantly glossy.
Leaves turn brown at the tips.
CAUSE: Soil too dry.
REMEDY: Water more frequently, using rainwater or distilled water. If plant dries out completely, rehydrate pot as described on page 328.
New leaves are small or lack perforations.
CAUSE: Too little light; too little fertilizer.
REMEDY: It is normal for young plants to develop leaves without holes or slits, but when new leaves on older plants fail to develop perforations, the plant needs more light and fertilizer.
Old leaves turn yellow and shrivel to brown.
CAUSE: Natural in winter when temperatures and light levels are low. In summer, yellowing leaves are caused by uneven watering, which makes the soil too wet or too dry.
REMEDY: Clip off failing leaves with sharp scissors. Water more frequently to keep soil evenly moist.
White cottony deposits on stems and leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Mealybug.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and remove mealybugs with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat every few days until mealybugs are gone. The open growth habit of this plant makes it easy to remove mealybugs by hand.
Leaves pale, with faint webbing on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and thoroughly clean leaf undersides with a soft cloth or sponge dipped in soapy water. Repeat after a week. Regular cleaning of leaves will prevent this problem, as will keeping plant in a moderately humid place. Monstera is less likely than other houseplants to become infested with spider mites.
FOSSILS OF PALMS DATING BACK 65 MILLION YEARS have been found, though some may be much older, possibly existing in the time of the dinosaurs. They are thought to be among the first plants that began reproducing by producing flowers and seeds — a major turning point in plant evolution. In the history of civilization, drawings from ancient Egypt make it clear that the date palm was regarded as a symbol of longevity 5,000 years ago. The date palm is also mentioned numerous times in both the Bible and the Koran.
Palms are mostly plants of the tropics, though some grow outdoors in semitropical climates. However, the same palms that grow into 30 ft/9 m-tall trees in warm regions stay much smaller when grown indoors. Still, a palm that grows too tall presents a problem, because a palm cannot be pruned back from the top without weakening or killing it. It is much safer to choose a palm that fits the space you have in which to grow it.
In terms of interiorscaping, palms are almost always “floor” plants, employed as architectural specimens in roomy spots where they impart a strong tropical mood. Grow large palms in tubs set on wheeled platforms so they can be rotated easily to expose all sides of the plants to good directional light. Small palms, such as dwarf lady palms, can be used as tabletop plants.
The boldly textured foliage of palms comes in two basic forms: fan and feather. Palms with fan foliage have leaflets that radiate from a stem in a circular pattern, while those with feathery foliage have leaflets that emerge from a central vein in parallel lines. The two most popular indoor palms — areca palms and parlor palms — feature feathery foliage. Of palms with fan-type foliage, the lady palms are usually the easiest ones to grow.
Upright palms evoke a tropical mood in the starkest of surroundings.
After consulting the general guidelines given here, refer to the plant profiles on the pages that follow for advice about the best potting soils and fertilization practices for specific palms. You may find that your palm collects dust on its leaves more noticeably than do other houseplants. This is uncomfortable for both you and the plant, so it’s a good idea to clean plants from time to time in a warm shower. Leafshine products will make palm leaves glossy, but not all palms can tolerate them. To be safe, try this old way of polishing palm leaves: Mix 1 tablespoon of milk with 1 cup of warmed rainwater, and use this mixture to wipe down the leaves with a soft cloth. Although this process sounds laborious, it gives good satisfaction as well as the opportunity to closely examine each leaflet for the presence of spider mites, scale, or other pests.
Light: Some palms, such as date palms, require bright light, while parlor palms will accept low light provided they are properly acclimated. Palms can adapt to changes in light, but this process is very slow, sometimes taking as long as a year. Palms grown for indoor use are gradually moved to 70 to 80 percent shade for 3 to 12 months before they are offered for sale. If moved quickly from sun to shade, many palms simply die. Keep this in mind if you live in a mild winter climate where palms are often planted outdoors. Never buy a palm that’s accustomed to sun and attempt to grow it indoors.
Palms enjoy spending the warmest part of summer outside on a porch or patio, but again, it’s important to keep them in a shady spot. Otherwise, they may have a difficult time adjusting to reduced light levels when you bring them back inside in the fall. Palms grown in shade grow more slowly than those that grow in sun, but the fronds of shade-grown palms have a rich, dark green color.
Temperature: Because they are tropical plants, palms are well equipped for coping with temperatures as high as 100°F/38°C. They grow very little in temperatures below 65°F/18°C, though some can withstand slight chilling with no problems. Warmer is generally better where palms are concerned.
Fertilizer: Most houseplants are easily fed with a steady diet of liquid plant food — but not palms. Liquid plant foods leave behind salts, which often injure palms. Palms do not need much fertilizer, and what they do need is best provided by sprinkling a teaspoon of coated, time-release fertilizer granules into the top of each container in spring. Supplement this feeding with micronutrients, which are in good supply in any well-rotted compost. A light sprinkling of approximately ½ cup/118 ml of compost, spread over the top of the soil in the pot twice each year, is usually sufficient. You can also provide micronutrients by drenching the leaves with a micronutrient spray, as described on page 262. Yet another option is to use a high-quality rose fertilizer, which often contains a nutrient balance that is ideal for these plants.
If it’s summer, the prime growth season for palms, and you suspect that your palm needs more fertilizer, you can use two light applications of a balanced houseplant food, made 2 weeks apart, to see if the plant perks up. If your palm responds favorably, you can either give it more time-release fertilizer or continue with the liquid for a few more weeks, provided you flush the container monthly to wash out excess salts.
Water: Palms are sensitive to salt accumulation in the soil, which can come from water or fertilizers. They also can be damaged by fluoride and other chemicals present in many public water supplies. Whenever possible, use distilled water or clean rainwater to water your palms. Water filters remove many contaminants, so filtered water is a good second choice. Most palms grow best when the soil is kept lightly moist at all times. They can be damaged by having their roots exposed to standing water for even short periods of time.
The biggest water-related problem you are likely to have is salt. Managing potential salt problems in the soil requires a three-pronged approach. First, add some sand to the potting soil to help it drain quickly. Second, use a coated, time-release fertilizer rather than a liquid plant food as your primary means of feeding your palm. Third, leach the container two to three times a year by flooding it with water, allowing the water to drain away, and then flooding it again. Repeat three times in the course of a day. Indoors, this is best done in a roomy bathtub. In summer, you can leach pots outdoors using warm water from a hose.
The plants profiled here can tolerate dry air, but it’s always a good idea to mist them from time to time. In addition to raising humidity levels, misting may discourage spider mites, which love the foliage of palms.
Soil: Think beach when considering soil for palms. Although palms may grow well enough in ordinary potting soil, most are happiest with a soil mix composed of 2 parts peat, 1 part pine bark, and 1 part sand. Some species respond to fine-tuning the mix with additional sand; date palms like the heaviness brought about by the addition of a bit of clay soil. See the plant profiles for specific suggestions, and turn to page 314 for more information on creating customized soil mixtures. If you do not want to make a custom soil for a palm, the next best choice is to use packaged African violet soil amended with a little sand.
Repotting: It is usually not necessary to repot palms more often than once every 3 years. Crowded roots help limit a palm’s size, which is generally a good thing with indoor-grown palms. The main reasons to repot palms are to relieve very severe root crowding, to promote growth of small, young plants, and to provide the plants with clean containers that are free of salt deposits, along with a fresh supply of soil. Watch planting depth closely, and try to replant palms at the same depth they grew in their previous container. Palms can be damaged by planting them too deeply. Also, do not attempt to spread out the roots of potted palms as you repot them. The brittle roots break easily and should be kept as intact as possible. After repotting palms, make sure that the soil is well packed around the roots by repeatedly tamping the container and then flooding it with water.
Propagating: Most palms are grown from seed, though a few species, such as lady palms, grow into clumps that can be propagated by division. Commercial growers often plant three seedlings in a pot to produce a fuller-looking plant. Separating them often injures so many roots that the operation is not successful, though it’s worth trying with very young plants, such as little parlor palms that come to you in a dish garden.
It’s possible to grow palms from seeds, provided you have a very warm place for them to sprout and grow. To test a palm seed to see if it is good, drop it into a pail of water. Seeds that float lack sound endosperms, the organs that grow into a seedling, so they are best discarded. Fresh palm seeds germinate much better than old ones.
Among indoor palms, lady palms (Rhaphis excelsa) are unique in their tendency to grow low and broad rather than tall and upright.
Most palm seeds germinate best when they are planted very near the surface so that the seed is barely covered. Germination times range from a few days to several months, and temperatures must be kept in the 75–80°F/24–27°C range. Enclosing the seeded container in a plastic bag, and keeping it on top of a refrigerator or hot-water heater is a good method to try at home. Use a small, 2 in/5 cm pot, and do not attempt to transplant the seedling until it has two or more leaves. Young palm seedlings need abundant light, so planting seeds in early spring, so the plants can spend their first summer outdoors, tends to give the best results.
Small details: Several potential problems with palms, including dust on leaves, salt accumulation in the soil, and infestations of spider mites, can be prevented by taking the plants outdoors and treating them to a long, warm shower. Indoors, you can do this in a roomy bathtub. In the fall, 2 weeks before bringing in palms that have spent the summer outdoors, check them very carefully for evidence of scale, mealybugs, or spider mites. Hand-pick any pests that you find, and then spray plants thoroughly with plenty of warm, clean water. Some palms tolerate insecticidal soap, while others do not (see below). If mite problems become severe, treat a test leaf and wait 3 days before spraying the entire plants.
Brown discs on leaf undersides; round spots on tops of leaves.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Gently remove by hand if possible. Repeat every few days, then spray plants with insecticidal soap after testing plant for tolerance. See page 273 for more information on these pests.
Leaves have faint yellow specks; leaves appear stressed; webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate infected plant, and remove badly infested leaves. Clean plants using one of the methods described on page 274. Increase humidity by misting at least once a day. Spray plants monthly with insecticidal soap after testing plant for tolerance.
White woolly patches on stems or where leaflets join stems.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Remove with cotton swab dipped in alcohol; repeat every 3 days until the plants are clean.
Brown or black patches on leaves.
CAUSE: Fungal leaf spot diseases, which include Cercospora leafspot on lady palms, and anthracnose on several other species.
REMEDY: Remove affected leaves; wash off plant and place it where air can circulate freely through the foliage.
Leaf tips are brown.
CAUSE: Too little water; water tainted by fluoride or chlorine.
REMEDY: Snip off brown tips; gradually increase water; switch to rainwater or distilled water.
Old fronds turn brown.
CAUSE: Normal for most palms.
REMEDY: Use a sharp knife, pruning shears, or a small saw to cut off old fronds near the trunk.
Yellow spots or streaks on leaves.
CAUSE: Nutrient deficiency.
REMEDY: A shortage of potassium, magnesium, or manganese can cause this problem. Drench plants with a micronutrient spray, and topdress the pot with an inch of good compost. Change to a fertilizer that includes abundant potassium and micronutrients. Occasionally add a pinch of Epsom salts to water.
New leaf is smaller than older leaves.
CAUSE: Too little fertilizer; not enough light.
REMEDY: Feed plant more often; increase light slightly. Corrective measures are best taken in spring.
Leaves are yellowish green.
CAUSE: Too much sun; iron deficiency.
REMEDY: Move plant to a shadier spot. Feed with a micronutrient foliar spray that includes iron.
In the following pages, six of the most popular, easy-to-grow palms are described in detail. They are listed in alphabetical order by botanical name, but you may not know a palm’s botanical name if it came to you in a dish garden, or if you bought it without benefit of an identification tag. The chart below will help you identify which palm you have. Then turn to the appropriate plant profile to get to know your palm better.
European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis)
FAMILY: ARECACEAE ORIGIN: CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO
POPULAR SINCE VICTORIAN TIMES, parlor palms adapt beautifully to low light. You can place them near an east window or grow them in a room illuminated with fluorescent lights. Very young plants are sometimes grown in dish gardens or terrariums. Fully mature parlor palms (C. elegans) are 3–4 ft/.9–1.2 m tall and 3 ft/.9 m wide. Other Chamaedorea species may grow slightly taller. All have strappy, green leaflets on fronds that grow from 9–24 in/22.5–60 cm long. Exposure to sun can cause leaves to develop brown tips, so be careful where you place a parlor palm if you shift it outdoors in the summer. And, although parlor palms tolerate dry indoor air, they are healthier when misted regularly to increase humidity.
Parlor palms are famous for flowering after they are more than 3 years old. However, the seeds that follow the beadlike sprays of flowers are seldom fertile and should be clipped off when they begin to turn brown. Watch parlor palms closely for infestations of spider mites. Cleaning the leaves by hand from time to time is the best preventive measure.
Parlor palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
FAMILY: ARECACEAE ORIGIN: WESTERN MEDITERRANEAN AND NORTHERN AFRICA
IF YOU HAVE A SOLAR SPACE that gets at least 4 hours of bright sunlight during the day but cools off at night, it will make a perfect home for a European fan palm. Hardy enough to grow outdoors in Tucson and Texas, this plant’s natural habitat is dry, rocky mountain slopes. The stiff, fan-shaped fronds up to 24 in/60 cm across have a silvery sheen; it is normal for the ends of the leaflets to split as they mature. When grown indoors, European fan palms will slowly grow to about 4 ft/1.2 m tall. Old, outer fronds wither and new ones are produced from the plant’s crown. As the plant ages, the trunk develops numerous black hairs, giving it a rugged appearance.
Commercial growers produce European fan palms from seed, yet this is one of the few palms that often produces suckers, which can be carefully cut away and transplanted to new pots. European fan palms of any age grow very slowly and make the most of their new growth in summer. If you move them outdoors in summer, clean them thoroughly before bringing them inside in the fall.
European fan palm (Chamaerops humilis)
Light: Direct sun 4 hours daily, with bright filtered light the rest of the day.
Temperature: Cool nights (50–60°F/10–16°C) and warm days (70–80°F/21–27°C) are ideal. Fertilizer: In spring, fertilize with a time-release fertilizer. In summer, feed once or twice with a balanced houseplant food. In fall and winter, do not feed.
Water: In spring and summer, keep constantly moist. In fall and winter, allow to dry to within 2 in/5 cm of surface between waterings.
Soil: Peaty mix amended with compost and sand.
Repotting: Deep roots are fragile, so repot only as necessary, about every 2 to 3 years.
Longevity: 20 years or more.
Propagation: Seeds; division of suckers.
Selections: European fan palm is sold by species name. A different fan palm, Chinese fan palm (Livistonia chinensis), features fronds that droop slightly. It is grown the same way as its European counterpart.
Display tips: Plant in a deep tub, and use this exotic-looking palm as an anchor plant in a bright sunroom.
FAMILY: ARECACEAE ORIGIN: MADAGASCAR
THE MOST POPULAR PALM for bright indoor spaces, areca palms feature feathery, medium green fronds, with 80 to 100 leaflets on each arching frond. The lowest parts of the stems are yellow to yellow-orange.
Although areca palms grow to nearly 30 ft/9 m tall in the wild, when grown indoors they typically grow 6–7 ft/1.8–2.1 m tall. This is quite large for most homes, though you can trim off the tallest frond or two without seriously harming the plants. Small areca palms often grow 6–10 in/15–25 cm per year, making the most of their new growth in summer. Areca palms can be grown outdoors only in frost-free areas. In temperate climates, they enjoy spending the summer outside in a shady spot.
Areca palms are grown from seed, though they rarely produce drooping panicles of yellow flowers, followed by seeds, when they are grown indoors. Seed starting is best left to greenhouse growers; germination time ranges from 2 to 6 months at 80°F/27°C. Purchased plants that are 24–36 in/60–90 cm tall are usually about 18 months old, so they tend to be somewhat costly.
Areca palm (Chrysalidocarpus lutescens)
Light: Bright, indirect light from a south or west window.
Temperature: During the day, warm (above 75°F/24°C). At night, no cooler than 65°F/18°C.
Fertilizer: In spring, feed with a time-release fertilizer. In summer, this palm benefits from a micro-nutrient spray. In fall and winter, do not feed.
Water: In spring and summer, constant light moisture. In fall and winter, slightly drier.
Soil: Peaty yet porous mix amended with sand.
Repotting: Every 2 to 3 years.
Longevity: 10 years or more.
Propagation: Seeds. Although areca palms can be propagated by division, this is very difficult to do at home.
Selections: Sold by species name.
Display tips: Plant in large tubs set on the floor in a warm, well-lit spot. Placement near a white wall will reflect extra light, which helps keep the plants full.
FAMILY: ARECACEAE ORIGIN: AUSTRALIA
SEEDS OF THE KENTIA PALM were first collected in 1870 on Lord Howe Island, which is northeast of Australia. For the next hundred years, this palm steady grew in popularity since it adapted well to the dim interiors of European parlors. Kentia or sentry palms remain fine choices for rooms with tall ceilings, as they can reach 8 feet in height. However, they grow so slowly in limited light that many years pass before they outgrow their space. Because of their slow growth, kentias often cost more than other palms. A kentia that fills a 10 in/25 cm pot is 3 to 5 years old.
The fan-shaped leaflets of kentia palms droop slightly, and usually have a dark green color that shows best in rooms with light-colored walls. All palms of this species grow from single trunks, but commercial growers often plant several in a pot to make it appear more lush and full. Kentia palms benefit from spending the summer outdoors and from regular cleaning of their leaves during the winter.
Kentia palm (Howea forsteriana)
Light: Bright light, near a south or east window.
Temperature: During the day, average to warm (75–80°F/24–27°C). At night, 60–65°F/16–18°C.
Fertilizer: In spring and summer, feed with a time-release fertilizer. In fall and winter, do not fertilize.
Water: In spring and summer, keep soil lightly moist at all times. In fall and winter, allow soil to become almost dry between waterings.
Soil: Peaty potting soil amended with sand, or African violet potting soil with a little sand added.
Repotting: Repot only when necessary, no more often than every 2 years. Handle the fragile roots with great care.
Longevity: 20 years or more.
Propagation: Seed.
Selections: These two species are very similar: Kentia palm (H. forsteriana) has wider spaces between the leaflets; the leaflets of sentry palm (H. belmoreana) often show a slight curl.
Display tips: These palms are ideal for growing in tubs in bright rooms with cathedral ceilings.
FAMILY: ARECACEAE ORIGIN: VIETNAM, CANARY ISLANDS
COUSINS TO THE DATE PALMS of the Bible, both the pygmy date palm and Canary Island date palm produce edible fruits when grown outdoors. Plants grown indoors seldom flower, but they do feature flashy, arching fronds studded with thin, delicate-looking leaflets. The bases of the leaflets are armed with sharp spines, and older trunks develop thorns as well. Wear gloves when trimming off old fronds that droop below horizontal level.
These little date palms aren’t so little when grown outdoors in Florida, Texas, Arizona, and California, where they mature into thick-trunked trees. Indoors, the plants stay much smaller, often growing to less than 36 in/90 cm tall. The Canary Island palm is a little taller than the pygmy date palm. These palms have heavy roots that make for heavy containers. When grown near an east window where they will get strong morning light, they seldom require moving.
Date palms are sensitive to shortages of micronutrients. Yellow splotches on leaflets is a typical symptom of too little magnesium or manganese. Use an annual drench of Epsom salts, made by mixing 1 teaspoon/4.93 ml of the salts into a quart of water, to provide magnesium. Or, use a good rose fertilizer that contains micronutrients to fertilize these palms.
Pygmy date palm (Phoenix roebelinii)
Light: Bright filtered light.
Temperature: Warm. During the day, 75–85°F/24–29°C. At night, 65–70°F/18–21°C.
Fertilizer: In spring, feed with a time-release fertilizer that includes micronutrients, such as a rose fertilizer. In summer, repeat this dosage one more time. Sensitive to deficiencies of magnesium and manganese, so apply a micronutrient spray annually in summer. In fall and winter, do not feed.
Water: In spring and summer, water often, allowing soil to dry to within 1 in/2.5 cm of surface between waterings. In fall and winter, water slightly less.
Soil: Amend standard potting soil with compost, sand, and a small amount of clay soil.
Repotting: Repot young plants annually in spring to promote new growth. Mature plants have heavy, brittle roots and are difficult to repot.
Longevity: Many years.
Propagation: Seeds.
Selections: These palms are sold by species name.
Display tips: Place out of high-traffic areas, as the fronds are delicate yet armed.
FAMILY: ARECACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTHEASTERN CHINA
OVER 300 YEARS AGO, the Japanese fell in love with the fresh, clean lines of lady palms. Each frond is comprised of 5 to 9 glossy, 1 in/2.5 cm-wide leaflets arranged in a fan pattern. Although plants often grow to 10 ft/3 m or more outdoors, small containers dramatically limit their size. When handled as bonsai, plants may be maintained as 14 in/35 cm-tall miniatures for many years.
Lady palms are easy to grow indoors, adapting readily to limited light. Too much light, particularly direct sun, can cause the leaves to turn yellow-green. Lady palms also need a lean diet. Too much fertilizer can cause the variegation patterns of the showiest varieties to fade. These factors make lady palms excellent choices for people who want a formal, easy-to-keep plant that evokes an Oriental mood. However, like most other palms, lady palms are sensitive to fluoride and other chemicals in water, as well as soil-borne salts. Periodic leaching of the pots will help prevent serious problems.
A few other Rhaphis species are sold as indoor plants, but none are as adaptable and easy to grow as the lady palm.
Lady palm (Rhaphis excelsa)
Light: Indoors, filtered light from an east window. Outdoors, 80 percent shade.
Temperature: Average to warm (60–80°F/16–27°C).
Fertilizer: In summer, feed monthly with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half the normal strength, or provide a light sprinkling of time-release plant food. In fall through spring, do not feed.
Water: In summer, water plants by soaking them often, then allow soil to dry to within 1 in/2.5 cm of surface. In winter, allow soil to dry to within 2 in/5 cm of the surface between waterings.
Soil: African violet mix amended with sand.
Repotting: Repot young plants every 2 years. When plants reach desired size, repot only as needed to refresh soil.
Longevity: Many years.
Propagation: Seeds; division.
Selections: More than 100 cultivars exist, most with Japanese names. ‘Koban’ is a popular green-leafed variety. ‘Zuikonishki’ has cream-and-green variegated leaves.
Display tips: These elegant plants are traditionally grown in shallow bonsai pots or ceramic urns.
FAMILY: PANDANACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTH PACIFIC
A STRONG ARCHITECTURAL PLANT, pandanus adapts well to life in homes and offices, though it does need plenty of elbow room. The arching, strap-shaped leaves can grow to 36 in/90 cm long, and the edges tend to be prickly. To avoid brushing against it, allow a pine a 5 ft/1.5 m space in which to grow. Over a period of several years, a healthy pandanus will grow to 4 ft/1.2 m tall. Aerial roots emerge near the base of the plant as it ages. In the wild, these “stilt” roots would help hold the plant firm in strong winds, common in the seaside locations where it likes to grow. Indoors, simply tuck the roots into the pot, and bury them during routine repotting.
Pandanus is not a pine. The “pine” part of its common name was earned because the leaves resemble those of pineapple. As for the “screw” part, pandanus’s leaves spiral around the base of a central rosette, like the frets on a screw.
Screw pine (Pandanus veitchii)
Light: Bright, including up to 3 hours of direct sun. Plant can be moved outdoors in summer provided it is placed in partial shade.
Temperature: Average to warm room temperatures (65–80°F/18–27°C).
Fertilizer: From spring through summer, feed every 2 weeks with a balanced, all-purpose houseplant food. In winter, feed monthly.
Water: Allow soil to dry to within an inch of the surface between thorough waterings. Plants need more water in summer, less in winter.
Soil: Any good potting soil with a small amount of sand added.
Repotting: Annually in spring, moving plant to a pot one size larger. Between repottings, push aerial roots into the soil so they help anchor the plant.
Longevity: 10 to 15 years.
Propagation: When older plants produce basal shoots, or pups, cut them off and root them as you would stem tip cuttings, as described on page 299.
Selections: Variegated forms are most popular, but P. utilis, with solid green leaves, is a handsome plant with a palmlike demeanor.
Display tips: Use as a floor plant in a large, open room with other high-light plants. Smaller plants with daintier foliage make good companions.
New leaves are small.
CAUSE: Needs repotting to larger container; not enough fertilizer.
REMEDY: When roots become extremely cramped, pandanus shows its displeasure by straining to make new growth. Shift to a slightly larger pot and keep plant well fed in summer, when warm temperatures encourage new growth.
Leaves turn all green.
CAUSE: Not enough strong light.
REMEDY: Increase light by moving plant to a brighter location or by providing supplemental fluorescent light.
Leaf edges turn brown.
CAUSE: Air too dry.
REMEDY: Plant needs average to high humidity. Place plant on a tray of damp pebbles or keep it in a room with a humidifier.
Leaf tips curled and parched, with webbing on underside.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: See page 276 for ways to identify this pest. If present, clean leaves thoroughly by hand, wiping each leaf underside with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water. Repeat weekly until mites are controlled.
FAMILY: PIPERACEAE ORIGIN: BRAZIL
THREE SPECIES OF PEPEROMIA have made the journey from South American rain forests to modern homes and offices. All grow nicely in moderate light and make few demands on their keepers. The smallest and most popular peperomias have heart-shaped leaves with a waffle texture. Growing to only 8 in/20 cm tall and wide, the corrugated leaves of P. caperata may be green, reddish, or silvery gray with green leaf veins, depending on variety. Occasionally, the plants produce slender flower spikes that resemble rat’s tails. A second small species, P. argyreia, is often called watermelon peperomia because of the arching stripes of silver-gray that mark its nearly elliptical leaves. Both of these species are sensitive to overwatering, but generally make fine tabletop plants, or they can be grown with other small foliage plants in a dish garden.
A third species, P. obtusifolia, commonly called baby rubber plant, has a more upright posture. The rounded leaves are usually deep green, though there are varieties with gold-and-white variegated leaves. Because of its easygoing nature, this peperomia is often recommended for workplaces.
Peperomia (Peperomia caperata)
Plant appears slightly wilted despite regular watering.
CAUSE: Roots are deprived of oxygen.
REMEDY: Allow plant to dry slightly, remove it from the pot, and make sure the drainage holes are not blocked by debris. Use a toothpick to make a dozen or so small holes in the bottom and sides of the root ball. If problem persists, repot the plant using a light-textured potting mix.
Raised, scablike swellings on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Corky scab or oedema, caused by overwatering.
REMEDY: This problem is most likely to develop in cool, cloudy weather, when peperomia needs less water. Water lightly in winter, and avoid heavy watering when temperatures and light levels are low.
Older leaves shrivel and die.
CAUSE: Normal in most cases, but sudden leaf losses can be due to salt damage or fertilizer burn.
REMEDY: Clip off damaged leaves. Leach the soil to remove any accumulated salts (see page 263). Always dilute fertilizer to half of the strength recommended on the label.
White cottony masses on leaves or stems.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and remove mealybugs by hand, using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. If problem persists, see other control measures for this pest on page 273.
FOR GENERATIONS, PHILODENDRONS HAVE SERVED as backbone plants in indoor gardens, and for good reason. Easy to grow and comfortable in the same environments that suit people, philodendrons show enough steady growth to keep them interesting. Should they outgrow their space, most philos are easily propagated.
Although the word philodendron loosely translates as “tree-loving,” not all philodendrons are vining in habit, and those that do climb need help holding onto a support post. However, when secured to a post with florist’s tape or pins, vining types like heartleaf philodendron and blushing philodendron do attach themselves, albeit slowly, with aerial roots. Those that do not climb, often called self-heading philodendrons, grow into rounded, spreading plants that need a bit of elbow room.
Philodendrons are very responsive plants, which makes caring for them all the more rewarding. Within weeks after repotting in late spring, philodendrons often reward their keeper with a fast flush of new growth. But don’t expect your philodendrons to produce flowers when grown indoors. These members of the Araceae family produce spade-shaped flowers and tiny seeds when grown outdoors in tropical climates, but it’s extremely rare for philodendron house-plants to bloom.
Some people are allergic to philodendron sap, which can cause an itchy rash in susceptible individuals. When repotting plants, wear gloves and a long-sleeved shirt should you have this problem. Philodendron leaves are poisonous to pets and people, though large amounts must be ingested to cause serious illness.
You can keep your philodendrons indoors year-round, or treat them to summer outdoors in a shady spot. Even indoor-grown philodendrons like to be taken outside once or twice during the summer for a thorough cleaning with plenty of fresh water. Unlike some other houseplants, moving philodendrons from place to place causes them no noticeable distress. The few problems you are likely to have with philodendrons are detailed on page 231.
Bird’s nest philodendrons feature leaves that change color as they age, and they are as easy to grow as other philodendrons.
Older leaves turn yellow.
CAUSE: Cold temperatures, excessive light, or inadequate nutrition.
REMEDY: While it is normal for philodendrons to shed older leaves from time to time, when several turn yellow at once it is usually due to stress. Containers kept on cold floors in winter may lead to serious chilling of the roots, which can cause this symptom. Yellowing of otherwise healthy leaves is usually due to too much light, while pale new growth is likely to be due to insufficient fertilizer or use of a plant food that lacks essential micronutrients such as magnesium and calcium.
Stems are long and leggy, with several inches between leaves.
CAUSE: Insufficient light.
REMEDY: Philodendrons can tolerate low light for a short period in winter, but they grow best with bright indirect light. Consider moving them outdoors to a shady spot in summer, and possibly provide supplemental fluorescent light in winter.
New growth slow, leaf size small.
CAUSE: Insufficient fertilizer.
REMEDY: Philodendrons are moderate feeders, and how much and how often you fertilize them depends on the age of the plants and the growing season. In summer, when days are long and warm, feed philodendrons every 2 weeks if they lack vigor. Philodendrons often produce little new growth in winter.
New growth rumpled, with yellow specks.
CAUSE: Aphids.
REMEDY: Rinse off plants, then spray new growing tips with insecticidal soap. Plants usually outgrow problems with aphids once they are eliminated. Aphids are most likely to be seen on plants that have been kept outdoors.
White cottony deposits on stems or leaves.
CAUSE: Mealybug.
REMEDY: Remove mealybugs with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat after 5 days. Mealybugs are usually more common on other houseplants. Should a philodendron become infested, carefully check your other house-plants for signs of this pest. More information about mealybugs is given on page 272.
Recently repotted plant droops.
CAUSE: Too much water.
REMEDY: Roots are always damaged when plants are repotted, and modest root pruning is often necessary when repotting philodendrons. Use moist potting soil when repotting, but water newly repotted plants very lightly for two weeks. Use of a heavy, soil-based potting mix also can cause this problem. Philodendrons prefer a light, peaty mix that drains well.
There are dozens of philodendron species kept as cultivated plants, but the four types summarized in the chart below and included in the following plant profiles are the most common ones.
FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: BRAZIL
LONG LIVED AND EASY TO GROW, this philodendron has so much personality that it deserves the space it requires. Newly arrived from the nursery, plants are often quite upright, but they gradually assume a more relaxed posture. Plants eventually become twice as wide as they are tall, so a mature lacy-tree philodendron needs 6 ft/1.8 m of elbow room in which to stretch its leaves.
This species is also called anchor philodendron because of its tendency to produce long, ropelike aerial roots near the base of the plant. Tuck these back into the pot when possible, or wind them around the soil in the top of the container. Cutting off a few won’t hurt the plant, but retain as many anchor roots as you can if you plan to divide the plant within a few months. When repotting, the anchor roots can be shortened with clean pruning shears. Keep newly repotted plants slightly dry for a few weeks to allow cut and injured roots to heal.
Lacy-tree philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum)
FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: COLUMBIA AND BRAZIL
AN OLD FAVORITE, blushing philodendron is a determined climber with elongated heart-shaped leaves borne on reddish stems, often with red leaf undersides. Easy to grow in a warm, brightly lit room, blushing philodendron can reach 6 ft/1.8 m in height over a period of several years. It must be trained to a post, which can be bark-covered wood or a moss-filled pole. The plant cannot attach itself well without help, so you will need florist’s tape and pins (made from bent paper clips) to train the stems and aerial roots where you want them to go. To help keep the base of the plant well clothed with leaves, propagate a stem tip using the air-layering method when the plant has reached 4 ft/1.2 m in height. After the dominant stem tip is removed, a new branch usually emerges near the base of the plant.
Blushing philodendron (Philodendron erubescens)
FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: MANMADE HYBRIDS OF SEVERAL SPECIES
BOTH NATURE AND NURTURE play a role in the performance of these plants, which differ from other philodendrons in that they do not climb, yet they have broad, spade-shaped leaves. Complex hybrids developed in the 1980s, bird’s nest or mounding philodendrons carry the genes of several species, including P. auriculatum, P. bipinnatifidum, P. deflexum, and P. selloum. Their branching habit results not from breeding or training, but from tissue culture propagation, which is how all of them are produced. So, this is one houseplant that owes its existence and success to modern science.
Bird’s nest philodendrons are typically sold by variety name (see Selections, below), and they require a little less light than other large philodendrons. Lush, compact plants that need no pinching or training, these hybrids grow to less than 24 in/60 cm tall and wide. Beyond routine watering and feeding, the only maintenance they require is periodic leaf cleaning, which is easily done with a soft, damp cloth or sponge.
Bird’s nest philodendron (Philodendron hybrid)
Light: Moderate natural or fluorescent light.
Temperature: Average to warm room temperatures (70–85°F/21–29°C).
Fertilizer: From spring through fall, feed monthly with a high-nitrogen foliage plant food that includes magnesium and other micronutrients. In winter, feed every 6 weeks.
Water: Keep lightly moist, but allow soil to dry to within .5 in/1.25 cm of surface between waterings. Moderate humidity is beneficial, especially in winter when indoor air may be very dry.
Soil: Any peaty potting soil that drains well.
Repotting: Annually in spring, to shift plant to slightly larger pot. These plants grow best with somewhat restricted roots.
Longevity: 7 to 10 years.
Propagation: Can be propagated by air layering, but the resulting plants will not have the basal branching habit of plants grown from tissue culture.
Selections: ‘Prince of Orange’ and ‘Autumn’ feature leaves that emerge copper to orange and ripen to green as they age. The foliage of ‘Moonlight’ is medium chartreuse green. ‘Black Cardinal’ has slightly wavy leaves heavily blushed with dark burgundy and set off by deep violet-red stems.
Display tips: Keep leaves clean to show off their lustrous finish. Containers should be short and stout to help prevent toppling.
FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICA
EVERY DISH GARDEN INCLUDES a tendril or two of this familiar plant, which is more versatile than you might think. Small plants always look dainty in a pot, and the naturally waxy leaves need no help to show their natural luster. Keep young plants compact and bushy by pinching back stem tips from time to time. If desired, snip out the paper sheaths that cover leaf buds after they turn brown.
After a year or two, shift young plants to a hanging basket or begin training them up a moss-covered post. You will need to attach the stems with floral tape, but eventually they will sink aerial roots into the support post. After this happens, leaf size may enlarge from the usual 2 in/5 cm to more than 4 in/10 cm from base to tip. Heartleaf philodendron can be kept to any size desired by pruning the long stems, which will grow to 4 ft/1.2 m or more if allowed to wander.
Heartleaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens oxycardium)
FAMILY: URTICACEAE ORIGIN: VIETNAM
THE MOST GIFTED ARTIST would have difficulty creating a painting as beautiful as the leaves of aluminum plant. Each leaf is marked with slightly raised silver splotches between green leaf veins, so that they appear to have been decorated with silver paint. The patterning of the splotches has earned this plant the nickname of watermelon pilea, since its markings are reminiscent of those present on watermelon rinds.
Pilea is grown as an outdoor groundcover in tropical areas, and indoors it makes an easy houseplant in moderately humid surroundings. Young stems are tinged with pink, while older ones become slightly woody. Tiny white flowers sometimes appear in summer, but they are hardly noticeable and not at all showy. Pilea greatly benefits from being pinched back in early summer to stimulate the production of new branches. When you pinch tips from plants more than 2 years old, set some to root in damp seed-starting mix. The new plants grown from cuttings will probably grow more vigorously than their parent plant, which may then be discarded.
Aluminum plant (Pilea cadierei)
Light: Moderate to bright light from an east or west window.
Temperature: Average room temperatures (60–75°F/16–24°C).
Fertilizer: In spring and summer, feed plants weekly with a balanced houseplant food diluted to half the recommended rate. In fall and winter, feed monthly.
Water: Keep soil lightly moist at all times, but do not allow roots to stand in water. Aluminum plant likes moderate to high humidity.
Soil: Any good potting soil.
Repotting: Annually in spring.
Longevity: Individual plants remain in good condition up to 5 years, but the plant may be kept indefinitely if propagated from rooted stem tip cuttings.
Propagation: Root stem tip cuttings in spring or early summer as described on page 299. Under warm, humid conditions, cuttings root within a month.
Selections: The ‘Minima’ variety is dwarf, and it is often seen in dish gardens.
Display tips: Pilea is great in hanging baskets, where it often grows quite lush and full with ample light. In a terrarium, a single stem of this plant with its lower leaves pinched off resembles a miniature palm tree.
Leaves have brown splotches; lower leaves drop off.
CAUSE: Too cold; too wet.
REMEDY: Pilea cannot tolerate chilling, which often occurs when it is kept near a cold window in winter. Move to a warmer spot and reduce watering. In spring, cut back old stems to help plants develop flawless new growth.
Growth is leggy, with few leaves near base of plant.
CAUSE: This is normal for plants more than 2 years old. In a younger plant, it can signal too little light.
REMEDY: Pinch back plant to encourage the emergence of new branches. Locate plant where it gets bright filtered light for at least 4 hours each day.
Plant wilts despite regular watering.
CAUSE: Root rot.
REMEDY: Aluminum plant needs ongoing moisture, but too much leads to this problem, which often cannot be cured. Take tip cuttings and try to root them, and dispose of the parent plant.
Leaves pale and wilted, webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Clip off and dispose of badly infested leaves or branches. Thoroughly clean plant with lukewarm water, and isolate it from other plants. Mist daily for a week. If problem persists, see other control measures for this pest on page 274. Aluminum plant can tolerate insecticidal soap, but it is easily damaged by other pesticides.
New growth puckered; small insects on stems.
CAUSE: Aphids.
REMEDY: Clip off badly damaged tips, and clean plant thoroughly. If needed, spray with insecticidal soap. Do not use chemical insecticides on this plant.
FAMILY: ARALIACEAE ORIGIN: AUSTRALIA AND PACIFIC ISLANDS
TWO PLANTS OF DIFFERENT SIZE go by the common name of schefflera, and they require identical care. Umbrella tree (S. actinophylla) is a large, treelike plant with glossy green leaflets to 10 in/25 cm long that spiral out, like spokes on a wheel. Dwarf schefflera (S. arboricola), is a smaller, bushier plant, with leaflets 4 in/10 cm long. There are variegated forms of dwarf schefflera, as well as some with wavy, slightly ruffled leaf edges.
In either size, a schefflera can be a very long-lived plant when given casual care and protected from extreme heat and cold. Scheffleras do not like being moved about, and they may shed leaves if subjected to cold drafts or blasts of hot air from heating vents. Be careful not to overwater these plants, and check the leaves every few weeks for signs of pests. In winter, raise the humidity for a schefflera by keeping a humidifier operating nearby. Leafshine products will not hurt a schefflera when used properly, but you can keep schefflera leaves glossy by cleaning them regularly with a soft cloth.
Umbrella tree (Schefflera species)
Light: Bright filtered light or indirect light from fluorescent light and light-colored walls.
Temperature: Average to warm room temperatures (at night: about 65°F/18°C; during the day: 75–80°F/24–27°C).
Fertilizer: Year-round, feed monthly with a balanced houseplant food. Or, use a time-release granular fertilizer that includes micronutrients.
Water: Allow the top inch of soil to become nearly dry between thorough waterings. Leaves often droop when the soil becomes too dry.
Soil: Any good potting soil that includes peat moss.
Repotting: Repot young plants each spring. After 5 years or so, repot only every 2 to 3 years.
Longevity: Many years.
Propagation: Air layering is the best method to use at home, though small stem tips may also be rooted. See directions for air layering on page 304.
Selections: Among large scheffleras, ‘Amate’ is resistant to spider mites. Several varieties of dwarf schefflera, such as ‘Green Gold’, are splashed with yellow variegation. A third species, S. elegantissima, more commonly classified as Dizygotheca and known as false aralia.
Display tips: Grow tall or large plants in very heavy pots to prevent toppling. Tall plants often need to be staked.
Older leaves turn yellow and drop off.
CAUSE: Overwatering.
REMEDY: Check the top of the soil with your finger, and do not water plant until the top 1 in/2.5 cm feels dry. Pour off any water that accumulates at the base of the pot after watering the plant.
New leaves are pale and limp.
CAUSE: Plant needs more fertilizer.
REMEDY: Feed plant with a water-soluble plant food that includes micronutrients. If the plant responds well, begin feeding it every 2 weeks with a liquid fertilizer mixed at half the normal strength.
Variegation fades, or stems become long and leggy.
CAUSE: Too little light.
REMEDY: Move plant to a brighter spot. All scheffleras tend to become lanky as they age. Propagate plants that have lost their shape and are impossible to stake.
Leaves parched, with faint webbing on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and initiate control measures as described on page 274. Maintaining high humidity helps prevent problems with this pest.
White cottony masses on stems.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and remove mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat every 5 days until all mealybugs are gone.
Dark disks on leaf undersides, leaves appear limp with dark, powdery patches.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Clean leaves by hand with a soft cloth and warm, soapy water to remove scale and sooty mold. Repeat weekly until problem is controlled. When buying a new plant, inspect leaf undersides to make sure you are not accidentally importing this pest.
FAMILY: ARACEAE ORIGIN: CENTRAL AMERICA
HERE IS AN EASY-CARE FOLIAGE PLANT that has changed dramatically in the last twenty years. The species was originally a vine that needed to be secured to an upright support. However, it has been intensively selected for compact growth habit, leaves in varying shades of green and bronze, and improved resistance to disease. The selection process became more intense in the early 1990s, when commercial growers turned to tissue culture as the primary method of propagation. As a result, today’s syngoniums are more colorful, easier to grow, and less expensive than they have ever been. Most grow into lush plants less than 15 in/37.5 cm tall when kept in a 6 in/15 cm pot, and they are often labeled with their original botanical name, Nepthytis, which was changed back in 1879. Syngonium’s sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that can irritate skin and are toxic to pets and people.
Arrowhead plant (Syngonium podophyllum)
Leaves appear pale and limp.
CAUSE: Excessive light from direct sun.
REMEDY: Modern arrowheads do best in moderate light, and they do not adapt well to direct sun. Move to a shadier place.
New leaves turn brown and wither.
CAUSE: Drought stress.
REMEDY: Arrowheads constantly produce new leaves, and if they run short of water, they often drop the new leaf before it unfurls. Snip off the dead leaf, and water more attentively, so that the soil never dries out completely.
Several leaves shrivel and turn brown at once.
CAUSE: Chemical damage.
REMEDY: The thin leaves of arrowhead plant are easily injured by pesticides, leafshine products, gaseous fumes, and other pollutants. Should the leaves become dirty, clean them with a fine spray of water. Before using any pesticide on this plant, apply a small amount to a single leaf and observe it for 3 days before treating the entire plant.
Small cottony masses on stems.
CAUSE: Mealybugs.
REMEDY: Remove by hand, using a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Repeat every few days until the mealybugs are gone.
Small disk-shaped creatures on stems or leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Scale.
REMEDY: Remove by hand, using your fingernail or a cotton swab dipped in oil. Repeat often until infestation is under control.
Leaves appear pale; webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Consider discarding the plant. Should you decide to save it, remove badly infested leaves, even if severe pruning is required, and use a lightly oiled cloth to clean remaining leaves by hand. Enclose the pruned plant in a roomy plastic bag that will keep the remaining leaves quite humid for several days. Then rinse the plant thoroughly and monitor it closely for continued problems.
FAMILY: SAXIFRAGACEAE ORIGIN: PACIFIC COAST FROM ALASKA TO NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
TOLMIEA IS ONE OF THE FEW houseplants that is native to North America. It grows wild on damp streambanks in the shady forests of the Pacific Northwest. A hardy perennial, piggy-back plant can be grown in shady gardens, where it slowly spreads via creeping roots. When kept indoors in containers, piggy-back plant provides refreshing green color and features a very unique leaf pattern. On mature leaves, plantlets spontaneously arise from the point where the leaf stem attaches to the leaf. This special talent has earned the plant fitting nicknames, such as “youth-on-age” and “thousand mothers.” It is also known as “hedge nettle,” as the leaf and stem hairs can cause minor dermatitis. To avoid possible discomfort, wear gloves when repotting or trimming your piggy-back plant.
Piggy-back plant (Tolmiea menziesii)
Light: Moderate. Do not expose the plant to full sun.
Temperature: Cool to average room temperatures; can tolerate substantial chilling, but grows best in temperatures between 50–75°F/10–24°C.
Fertilizer: In spring and summer, feed every 2 weeks with a balanced houseplant fertilizer. In winter, feed monthly.
Water: Keep soil lightly moist at all times. Piggy-back plant needs moderate humidity, and benefits from occasional misting if indoor air is very dry.
Soil: Any good potting soil.
Repotting: Repot annually for 2 years, moving plant to a slightly larger pot. Because this plant spreads naturally, it does well in a wide pot or hanging basket. In the third year, propagate several leaf cuttings and either set the parent plant outdoors in a shade garden or discard it.
Longevity: When grown in pots, plants lose vigor in only 3 years, but they can be kept indefinitely due to ease of propagation.
Propagation: Root petiole leaf cuttings as described on page 302. Wait until the parent leaf withers to cut it away from the new rooted plantlet.
Selections: Piggy-back plants are available with chartreuse leaves, and some are mottled with white. However, this plant is most valued for its interesting growth pattern.
Display tips: Grow piggy-back plant in a hanging basket. As the plantlets form on large, older leaves, they add weight and cause the stems to bend downward. Use the apple green color of piggy-back plant to good advantage by growing it near plants that have very dark green or reddish foliage.
Leaf margins turn brown.
CAUSE: Low humidity; too much sun.
REMEDY: Mist plant daily, or keep it in a room with a humidifier. Water frequently to keep soil constantly moist. Protect from exposure to direct sun.
Plant is straggly and leggy.
CAUSE: Low light.
REMEDY: Pinch back old leaves to encourage the plant to assume a more compact shape. Low light causes stems to lengthen, so moving the plant to a slightly brighter location should make new growth stockier, too.
Leaves pale; faint webbing on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant, and clearly identify this pest (see page 276). If spider mites are present, prune back plant by half its size to remove the most seriously infested leaves. Move plant to a shady place, and spray daily with a fine spray of water. Try insecticidal soap as a last resort.
Small wedge-shaped insects on new stems and leaves.
CAUSE: Aphids.
REMEDY: Rinse plant thoroughly to dislodge aphids. Spray with insecticidal soap if problem persists. See page 269 for more information on this pest.
FAMILY: COMMELINACEAE ORIGIN: MEXICO AND BRAZIL
TWO VERY SIMILAR PLANTS — Zebrina pendula from Mexico and Tradescantia albiflora from Brazil — go by the name of “wandering Jew.” They require the same care, so they will be discussed together here. These are extremely easy, fast-growing houseplants, valued for their colorful foliage striped with purple or white. Small pink flowers sometimes appear in spring, but they are rather insignificant.
The stiff stems root readily when nodes come into contact with soil, which makes wandering Jew simple to propagate. This is fortunate, since plants tend to become leggy and overgrown after a couple of years. Every other spring, root three or four stem tip cuttings in a 5 in/12.5 cm pot. Within a few weeks, the new cluster of plants will be ready to replace its parent, which can then be discarded.
Wandering Jew (Zebrina pendula)
Variegation fades and leaves turn mostly green.
CAUSE: Too much fertilizer; too little light.
REMEDY: Continue to feed every 2 weeks, but dilute fertilizer to half the strength recommended on the package. Move plant to a slightly brighter location.
Leaf tips turn brown.
CAUSE: Air too dry; erratic watering.
REMEDY: Increase humidity by keeping plant on a tray of damp pebbles, using a humidifier, or by misting every other day. Keep soil lightly moist. Pinch off affected leaves if they are unsightly.
Entire stem withers.
CAUSE: Root rot.
REMEDY: Remove affected stem, and reduce watering. As soon as possible, propagate stem tips. Root rot is usually caused by fungi that proliferate in the potting mix.
Stems become long and brittle, with widely spaced leaves.
CAUSE: Too little light.
REMEDY: Pinch back leggy stems to encourage new branches to form, and move plant to a brighter spot. Brittle, overgrown plants can be rejuvenated by cutting back a third of the stems to about 4 in/10 cm long.
Small, wedge-shaped insects on stems or new leaves, often with sticky residue.
CAUSE: Aphids.
REMEDY: Pinch off badly affected stems. Rinse plant with a fine spray of water, and spray with insecticidal soap if problem persists.
Leaves pale and curled, with webby material on leaf undersides.
CAUSE: Spider mites.
REMEDY: Isolate plant and prune off badly affected parts. Thoroughly clean plant with water, and mist daily. See page 274 for other methods for controlling persistent populations. If the infestation is severe, attempt to root stem tip cuttings and discard the parent plant.
